Spiced Quince and Apple Sauce

If you happen to see bumpy yellow quinces in the fall at your supermarket or farmer's market, snatch them up; they make a wonderfully fragrant addition to plain old applesauce, and turn it a beautiful tawny-pink color. Vanilla bean and star anise lend even more complexity.

• 2 medium quinces, peeled, quartered, and cored
• 1/4 cup sugar, plus more to taste
• 4 large sweet apples, such as Jonagold, peeled, quartered, and cored
• One 3-inch cinnamon stick
• 1/2 vanilla bean, split
• 1/2 star anise

Put the quinces, 1/4 cup sugar, and 1 cup water in a heavy medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, until the quinces turn pink and are beginning to soften, about an hour.

Add the apples, cinnamon stick, vanilla bean, and star anise to the pan and continue simmering, covered and stirring occasionally, for another 45 minutes, or until all the fruit is very tender. Taste for sweetness and add a bit more sugar if needed.

Remove from the heat and let cool, then fish out the spices and discard. Mash with a potato masher or put through a food mill using  a medium disk. Serve slightly warm or cold.

Slow-Poached Pears in Mulled Wine

Serve these burnished purple pears with crème fraîche (with stirred-in orange zest and sugar or honey, if you like), ice cream, blue cheese, or gingerbread. It’s best to prepare them ahead of time, so they soak up even more color and flavor from the cooking liquid. Using thick, syrupy molasses and honey removes the need to reduce the liquid prior to poaching the pears. Feel free to vary the type of honey; for instance, try Italian chestnut honey for a darker, more complex dish.

• Zest of 1⁄2 large orange, in strips
• 1 tsp. peeled chopped fresh ginger
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 8 whole cloves
• 1 star anise pod
• 5 black peppercorns
• 1 cup red wine, such as Merlot
• 1 cup ruby port
• 1⁄2 cup honey
• 1⁄4 cup unsulfured molasses
• Pinch of salt
• 6 firm pears, such as Bartlett or Bosc, peeled, halved, and cored

Tip:

To adapt a slow-cooker recipe to a conventional oven, follow these guidelines: add more liquid, to accommodate for greater evaporation; bring the dish to a boil over high heat in a Dutch oven, then cover the pot and put in a 350°F oven. Plan on the dish taking roughly half the time to cook in the oven as it would in the slow cooker.

Combine the zest, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, star anise, and peppercorns on a medium piece of cheesecloth and bundle into a bag, securing with kitchen twine. Set aside.

Stir together the rest of the ingredients except for the pears in the slow cooker, then add the pears, coating them with the sauce. Nestle in the spice bag. Cover and cook on low until the pears are very tender but still retain their shape, about 3 hours.

Carefully transfer the pears to a 9 x 13 x 2-inch baking dish (where they’ll later marinate in the reduced cooking liquid). Pour the cooking liquid into a medium saucepan, discarding the cheesecloth bag. Boil over high heat until reduced to a scant 1-1⁄4 cups, 25 to 30 minutes (the sauce should slightly coat the back of a spoon). Pour the sauce over the pears in the baking dish and turn to coat. Let sit, covered, in the fridge for at least a couple of hours (marinating the pears will give them even more color and flavor). The pears can be served cold, at room temperature, or warm. When ready to serve them, transfer two pear halves to each plate and top with some poaching liquid.

Pumpkin Cheesecake with Gingersnap & Pecan Crust

I discovered just how astonishingly good pumpkin is when not obscured by cinnamon and ginger when I tasted a pumpkin mousse prepared by Jehanne Burch at the Castle Hill Inn & Resort in Newport, Rhode Island. Her mousse contained only pumpkin, sugar, heavy cream, and gelatin. It was a revelation. If you use an electric mixer, start by beating the cream cheese with the whisk attachment until it’s very smooth, and then add the cooked pumpkin mixture and the remaining ingredients.

For the crust:

• 4-1/4 oz. gingersnap cookies (about 17 two-inch cookies), broken into pieces
• 2 oz. (1/2 cup) pecans, toasted
• 1 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 2 pinches table salt
• 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon (optional)
• 4 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted

For the filling:

• 1 cup unsweetened pumpkin purée (I like Libby's)
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 2 cups heavy cream, chilled
• 1 lb. cream cheese, softened to room temperature
• 2 large eggs
• 2 large egg yolks

For the garnish:

• About 24 pecan halves, toasted

Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease the bottom and sides of a 9x21/2-inch or higher springform pan.

Make the crust:

In a food processor, process the cookies with the pecans, sugar, salt, and cinnamon (if using) until the cookies become fine crumbs, about 20 seconds. Add the melted butter and pulse about 10 times, just until incorporated. (Alternatively, put the cookies in a freezer bag and use a rolling pin to crush them into fine crumbs. Grind the nuts finely but not to a powder. In a medium bowl, combine all the crust ingredients except the butter and toss with a fork to blend. Stir in the melted butter and toss to incorporate.)

Using your fingers or the back of a spoon, press the mixture into the base of the prepared pan and partway up the sides. Use a flat-bottomed, straightsided glass to smooth the crumbs over the bottom and farther up the sides (but not all the way to the top). Be sure to press the bottom thoroughly so that the crumbs are evenly distributed. Lay plastic wrap over the crumbs to keep them from sticking to your fingers, and use your fingers to continue pressing the crust to a thin, even layer. Wrap the outside of the pan with a double layer of heavy-duty aluminum foil to prevent leaking. Cover the crust with plastic wrap and refrigerate until needed.

Make the filling:

In a small, heavy saucepan, combine the pumpkin purée and sugar. Over medium heat, bring the mixture to a sputtering simmer, stirring constantly, about 5 minutes. Turn the heat to low and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture has darkened and thickened to the consistency of applesauce, about 5 minutes.

Scrape the mixture into a large food processor and process for 1 minute. with the feed tube open (so steam can escape), scraping down the sides. With the motor running, add the chilled cream. Add the softened cream cheese and process for 30 seconds or until smoothly incorporated, scraping down the sides two or three times. Add the eggs and yolks and process for about 5 seconds, just until incorporated.

Bake the cheesecake:

Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Set the pan in a larger pan (a 12x2-inch cake pan or a roasting pan) and surround it with 1 inch of very hot water. Check that the oven is at 350°F and bake the cheesecake for 45 minutes. Turn off the oven without opening the door and let the cheesecake cool for 1 hour. Transfer the cake to a rack (the center will still be jiggly) and cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. Cover the pan with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight. .

Umold, garnish, and slice:

Be sure the cheesecake is thoroughly chilled. Have ready a serving plate and another flat plate that's at least as wide as the springform and covered in plastic wrap. Wipe a hot, damp cloth around the outside of the ring (or use a hair dryer). Run a metal spatula or a thin knife inside the ring. Release and gently loosen the ring and then lift it off. Set the plate with the plastic wrap on top of the cheesecake and carefully invert the pan. Heat the base of the springform with a hot, damp cloth or hair dryer and lift it off. Set the serving plate lightly on the bottom of the cheesecake (which is now facing up) and reinvert the cake. Lift off the plastic-wrapped plate.

Arrange the pecan halves around the perimeter of the cake. To cut neat slices, use a sharp, thin-bladed knife dipped in hot water (shake off excess drops) between each slice.

Gingerbread Biscotti

Biscotti are very forgiving, and you can bake these to your taste: chewy, crunchy, or somewhere in between.

• 10 oz. (2-1/4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1-1/4 cups packed dark brown sugar
• 2 tsp. ground ginger
• 1-1/4 tsp. baking powder
• 1 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp. table salt
• 1/4 tsp. ground nutmeg
• 1/4 tsp. baking soda
• 4 oz. (1 cup) pecans, coarsely chopped
• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) lightly packed dried apricots, coarsely chopped
• 1/4 cup molasses
• 2 large eggs
• 2 tsp. finely grated orange zest (from about 1 medium navel orange)

Tip:

For the best results, measure your flour by weight instead of volume. (1 cup of all-purpose flour equals 4-1/2 oz.) If you don’t have a scale, be sure to use the proper technique when filling your measuring cups.

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Line a large cookie sheet with parchment.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, brown sugar, ginger, baking powder, cinnamon, salt, nutmeg, and baking soda on medium-low speed until well blended. On low speed, briefly mix in the pecans and apricots. In a measuring cup, lightly whisk the molasses, eggs, and orange zest. With the mixer on low, slowly pour in the egg mixture. Continue mixing until the dough is well blended and comes together in large, moist clumps, 1 to 2 minutes.

Dump the dough onto an unfloured work surface. Divide into two equal piles (about 1 lb. each). Shape each pile into a log that's 10 inches long and about 1-1/2 inches in diameter, lightly flouring your hands as needed (the dough is a bit sticky).

Position the logs on the lined cookie sheet about 4 inches apart. Bake until the tops are cracked and spring back slightly when gently pressed, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer the sheet to a rack and let cool until the logs are cool enough to handle, about 10 minutes.

Carefully peel the biscotti logs from the parchment and transfer to a cutting board. Using a serrated knife, saw each log into diagonal slices 3/4 inch wide. Return the slices to the cookie sheet (no need for fresh parchment) and arrange them cut side down. It's all right if they touch because they won't spread.

Bake until the biscotti are dried to your taste, about 10 minutes (for slightly moist and chewy) to 20 minutes (for super-dry and crunchy). Transfer the cookie sheet to a rack and let the biscotti cool completely. The biscotti will still give slightly when pressed, but will harden as they cool. When cool, store in airtight containers.

Braised Beef Braciola Stuffed with Basil and Mozzarella

This is a home-style version of the Italian-American classic. The traditional dish uses small roulades of beef round, but here we use a whole flank steak because it’s quicker and easier to stuff and roll one large cut and the flank offers a wonderful flavor. If you want to build up the stuffing, add prosciutto or hearty greens like kale.

• One 2 lb. flank steak
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup grated mozzarella
• 3/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 1/3 cup fine, dry breadcrumbs
• 12 large basil leaves, torn into pieces 
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1 large yellow onion, cut into thin strips (about 1-1/2 cups)
• 1/2 cup red wine
• One 28-oz. can whole tomatoes and their juices (3 cups), puréed (preferably San Marzano)
• 1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
• 8 oz. white mushrooms, quartered

Set the flank steak on a large cutting board. Using a chef’s knife, slice the steak lengthwise along one long side (without cutting all the way through the meat) and open it up like a book. Using a meat mallet, flatten the meat so it is about 1/4 inch thick. Sprinkle both sides of the meat with 1 tsp. salt and 1/2 tsp. pepper. For the stuffing, put the mozzarella, Parmigiano, breadcrumbs, and basil in a mini chopper or food processor and pulse to combine. Sprinkle the stuffing evenly over one side of the beef, and roll it up lengthwise jelly roll–style with the stuffing inside. Secure with kitchen twine in five or six places.

Heat half the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until it’s shimmering. Add the beef and cook until it browns and releases easily from the pan, about 2 minutes. Flip and cook the other side until browned, about 5 more minutes. Transfer to a large plate.

Add the remaining 2 Tbs. oil and the onion to the pan, and lower the heat to medium. Sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt and cook, stirring, until the onion wilts completely and turns a light brown, about 8 minutes. Add the red wine and cook, stirring, until it almost completely reduces, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and red pepper flakes and bring to a boil. Reduce to a gentle simmer and tuck the meat and mushrooms into the broth. Cover and cook, repositioning the meat occasionally, until the meat becomes tender and cuts easily with a paring knife, about 1-1/2 hours. Set the meat on a cutting board and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes. Thinly slice and serve topped with the sauce and vegetables.

Pear Tarte Tatin with Almond Pastry

Caramelized pears take the place of apples in this classic dessert. The amounts for flour, butter, and nuts are listed by weight (ounces) and by volume (cups and tablespoons); use either measurement.

For the pastry:

• 4-1/4 oz. (1 cup) cake flour
• 4 oz. (8 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut into large pieces
• 1/2 tsp. table salt
• 1 tsp. granulated sugar
• 1-1/4 oz. (1/3 cup lightly packed) ground almonds
• 1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten
• 3 Tbs. heavy cream

For the caramelized pears:

• 3 lb. pears (about 6 large), peeled, halved, and cored
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger tossed with 1 tsp. sugar
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1/4 cup water
• 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter

Make the pastry:

In a food processor, combine the flour, butter, salt, and sugar. Pulse briefly until the mixture has pea-size lumps and the rest looks like cornmeal. Add the almonds and pulse for just another second. Mound the mixture on a work surface, make a well, and pour the egg yolk and cream into the center. With your fingertips, draw the flour mixture into the well. Continue mixing the ingredients until you have a shaggy dough. Knead the dough just until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Caramelize the pears and bake the tarte:

Cut the pear halves lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Toss them with the ginger-sugar mixture. Heat a 9-inch cast-iron or other heavy-based pan with an ovenproof handle over medium-high heat. Add the sugar and water; swirl the pan to combine. Watch the sugar syrup carefully as it bubbles. When it turns light brown, add the butter and cook, stirring gently with a wooden spoon, until the caramel is an even, deep brown. Remove the pan from the heat and let the caramel cool slightly. Carefully arrange the pear slices in the caramel in a single concentric layer. Top with additional pear slices, continuing the circular pattern until  the pears reach the top of the pan. (They’ll shrink as they cook.) Return the pan to medium-high heat and cook until the pears on the bottom layer are fork-tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly while you roll out the dough.

Heat the oven to 450°F. Roll out the dough on a floured surface into a 10-1/2-inch round and drape it over the pan of pears to cover. (If the dough is still cool, you can pick it up with your hands; otherwise, gently roll the dough onto the rolling pin to move it to the pan.) Fold the excess dough onto itself to form a rough border. Press the crust down onto the pears to compress them slightly.

Lower the oven temperature to 400°F. Bake the tarte until the pastry is crisp and golden brown, about 45 minutes. Let cool in the pan for about 15 minutes. Carefully invert the tarte onto a serving plate with a rim to catch the caramel. Pour any caramel that stays in the pan over the tarte.

Sear-Roasted Rosemary Steak and Potatoes

This is a one-pan take on steak and potatoes. Sear the strip steaks on the stovetop, and then roast them with small red potatoes and rosemary sprigs. Thinly slice the beef before serving it with the potatoes.

• Four 1-1/2-inch-thick top loin (New York strip) steaks (8 to 10 oz. each), trimmed
• 1 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary plus
• 3 sprigs, pulled apart into smaller pieces
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 1-1/2 lbs. small red potatoes, halved or quartered if large
• 2 tsp. balsamic vinegar

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425°F. Sprinkle the steaks with the chopped rosemary, 1-1/2 tsp. salt, and 3/4 tsp. pepper. In a large (12-inch), oven-proof, heavy-duty skillet (like a cast-iron pan) over medium-high heat, combine 1 Tbs. each of the butter and oil and heat until the butter melts and its foam subsides. Add the steaks and cook without touching until they brown around the edges and easily release from the pan, about 3 minutes. Flip and cook the other sides until they brown, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a large plate.

Add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil to the skillet. Arrange the potatoes, cut side down, in the skillet, scatter the rosemary leaves around the potatoes, sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt, and transfer to the oven. Roast until the potatoes are tender when pierced, about 15 minutes. Set the steaks atop the potatoes and cook until the steaks are medium-rare—an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part should register 135°F, about 10 minutes.

Transfer the steaks to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes. Toss the potatoes with the remaining 2 Tbs. butter and the balsamic vinegar, and keep warm in the oven (turn the oven off and leave the door slightly open). Serve the steaks thinly sliced, with the potatoes on the side, drizzled with any remaining balsamic and butter mixture and sprinkled lightly with salt and pepper.

Cinnamon Beef Noodle Soup

Packaged stewing beef is often made up of irregularly shaped pieces from different cuts, so I cut my own stew meat using a boneless chuck roast or two 3/4-inch-thick chuck steaks.

• 1 tsp. peanut or vegetable oil   
• 3 cinnamon sticks (about 3 inches each)
• 6 scallions, cut into 1-1/2-inch pieces
• 6 cloves garlic, smashed  
• 2 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
• 1-1/2 tsp. anise seeds
• 1-1/2 tsp. Asian chile paste
• 7 cups water
• 4 cups homemade or canned low-salt chicken broth
• 1/2 cup soy sauce
• 1/4 cup rice vinegar
• 2-1/2 lb. boneless beef chuck, trimmed and cut into 3/4-inch cubes
• 9 oz. fresh udon noodles (or 6 oz. dried)
• 1- to 1-1/2-lb. bunch bok choy, bottom trimmed, stalks washed and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves

Heat the oil in a heavy soup pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. When very hot, add the cinnamon, scallions, garlic, ginger, anise seeds, and chile paste; cook, stirring, for 1-min. Add the water, broth, soy sauce, and vinegar; bring to a boil over high heat. Add the meat and bring to a vigorous simmer. Lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, partially covered, until the meat is very tender, about 1-1/2 hours, checking to be sure that the soup doesn’t boil or stop simmering.

Shortly before the soup is done, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cook the noodles according to the package directions until just tender. Drain and rinse under cold water.

When the meat is tender, remove the cinnamon sticks. Add the bok choy to the soup and simmer until the stalks are crisp tender and the greens are very tender, 5 to 10 min. Stir in the noodles and let them warm through. Serve immediately, garnished with the cilantro leaves.

Panang Curry Beef with Basil

This easy-to-make dinner will satisfy your craving for Thai food. Panang curry paste is milder than red curry paste and usually includes peanuts; look for it in the Asian section of the supermarket.

• 1 lb. flank steak, halved lengthwise
• 1 13.5-oz. can unsweetened coconut milk (do not stir)
• 2 Tbs. panang or red curry paste
• 2 Tbs. extra-crunchy peanut butter
• 5 tsp. fish sauce
• 4 tsp. dark brown sugar
• 1 medium red bell pepper, very thinly sliced lengthwise
• 1 medium onion, very thinly sliced lengthwise
• 1 cup thawed frozen peas
• 1 cup loosely packed basil leaves, torn
• 1-1/2 Tbs. fresh lime juice

Freeze the steak for 15 minutes to make slicing easier. Thinly slice the steak across the grain, no thicker than 1/8 inch.

Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Spoon the thick coconut cream from the top of the can into the skillet. Add the curry paste and cook, stirring, until fragrant and beginning to dry, 2 to 3 minutes.

Stir in the remaining coconut milk, peanut butter, fish sauce, brown sugar, and 1/4 cup water and bring to a simmer. Stir in the red pepper and onion, cover, and cook until the vegetables are crisp-tender, about 3 minutes.

Add the sliced beef, peas, and the basil; cook, uncovered, turning the beef often, until it no longer looks raw, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the lime juice and serve.

Herb-Buttermilk-Marinated Salmon with Cucumber Salad

The salmon is delicious either warm or at room temperature.

For the salmon

• 2 cups buttermilk
• 1/2 cup lightly packed fresh basil leaves, coarsely chopped
• 1/2 cup lightly packed fresh cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped
• 1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions (about 6 medium scallions)
• 1/4 cup white vinegar
• 2 Tbs. honey
• 1 Tbs. ground ginger
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 sides of salmon (3 lb. each), skin and pin bones removed

For the cucumber salad:

• 3 large English cucumbers, cut in half lengthwise, seeded, and sliced crosswise (about 9-1/2 cups)
• 1 large red onion, cut in half and thinly sliced (about 2 cups)
• 1 cup pitted Kalamata olives, cut in half
• 1 cup crumbled feta cheese
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Marinate and roast the salmon:

In a food processor, combine the buttermilk, basil, cilantro, scallions, vinegar, honey, ginger, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/8 tsp. pepper. Process until smooth, about 30 seconds. Set aside 3/4 cup for the salad.

Thirty minutes before roasting the salmon, pour the remaining marinade over the salmon in a large rimmed dish and let sit at room temperature. (For the best texture, don't marinate longer than 30 minutes.)

While the salmon is marinating, position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with foil. When ready to roast the salmon, remove it from the marinade and set on the baking sheet. Bake until just firm to the touch and opaque in the center (use a paring knife to peek), 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest in the pan for 10 minutes.

Make the salad:

In a medium bowl, mix the cucumbers, onion, olives, cheese, and 1-1/2 tsp. salt. Toss with the reserved buttermilk dressing and season to taste with more salt and pepper.

Serve:

Use two large spatulas to carefully move the salmon to a platter. Spoon some of the cucumber salad around the salmon and serve the rest in a bowl on the side.

Fresh Salmon Croque Madame

A classic Croque Madame is a grilled cheese sandwich with a fried egg on top. In this version, the soft yolk becomes a delicious sauce for an open-faced sandwich of grilled salmon on a bed of Swiss chard.

• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 small bunch Swiss chard or other leafy green, washed, dried
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 2 1/2-inch-thick slices country hearth bread
• 1 clove garlic, peeled
• 2 Tbs. cream cheese
• 1 Tbs. capers, drained and rinsed
• Two 4-oz. salmon fillets, skin removed
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 large eggs

Heat 1 Tbs. of the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the Swiss chard and cook until wilted and soft, stirring occasionally, 5 to 7 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set aside to cool slightly.

Heat a panini or sandwich press according to the manufacturer's instructions. Brush both sides of each slice of bread with 1 Tbs. of the olive oil. Place on the press, pull the top down, and cook until toasted, 1 to 2 minutes. Rub one side of each toasted slice with the garlic clove. Spread 1 Tbs. of cream cheese on each slice. Sprinkle with the capers.

Brush the salmon on both sides with the remaining 2 Tbs. olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place the salmon on the press, pull the top down, and cook until seared and cooked to your desired degree of doneness, at least 3 minutes.

While the salmon is cooking, heat the butter in a medium skillet. Carefully crack the eggs into the skillet, taking care not to break the yolks. Sprinkle 1 tsp. water onto each egg and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover the skillet and cook on medium-high heat until the whites are firm and the yolks are still soft, 2 to 3 minutes.

Arrange the cooked greens on top of the cream cheese, place a salmon fillet on top of each bed of greens, and slide a fried egg on top of each piece of salmon. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Lamb and Goat Cheese Burgers with Roasted Red Pepper Relish

There’s a double dose of fresh goat cheese here—as little pockets of flavor inside the burgers and as a creamy spread on the buns. The egg and breadcrumbs in the burgers help keep them moist.

• 4 oz. jarred roasted red peppers, drained, patted dry, and coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
• 8 pitted Kalamata olives
• 1 medium clove garlic, chopped
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• 8 oz. fresh goat cheese, at room temperature
• 1 tsp. finely chopped fresh mint
• 1/2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
• 1 lb. ground lamb
• 1/4 cup finely chopped sweet onion
• 1 large egg, beaten
• 2 Tbs. coarse fresh breadcrumbs
• 1 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Vegetable oil, for the pan
• 4 onion rolls, split and toasted
• 4 medium butter lettuce leaves

In a food processor, pulse the red peppers, olives, garlic, parsley, and olive oil into a coarse paste, 15 to 20 one-second pulses. Set aside.

Combine the goat cheese, mint, and lemon zest in a large bowl. Transfer about one-quarter of the mixture to a small bowl and set aside at room temperature. Refrigerate the goat cheese mixture left in the large bowl until firm, 10 to 15 minutes.

Add the lamb, onion, egg, breadcrumbs, rosemary, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper to the chilled goat cheese mixture and mix by hand until well combined there should be some small pieces of goat cheese visible. Shape into four 4-inch patties and transfer to a plate. Press 3 fingers down into the middle of each patty to create a shallow indentation, loosely cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until cold, at least 20 minutes and up to 3 hours.

Heat a grill pan over medium-high heat or prepare a medium-high (400°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Lightly oil the pan (or grill grates) and then cook the burgers, flipping once, until done to your liking, about 7 minutes total for medium (135°F to 140°F).

Spread the remaining goat cheese mixture on one cut side of each roll and then assemble the burgers on the rolls with the lettuce and red pepper relish.

Spice-Cured Salmon with Beets & Horseradish Cream

Cured salmon (gravad lax) is quintessentially Scandinavian. I have a recipe for every season, but this is our Christmas favorite thanks to the festive warm spices and orange zest. I love the combination of tangy raw beets and spicy horseradish cream with the silky, citrusy salmon. It makes an elegant first course and a deliciously cool counterpoint to hot White Wine & Elderflower Gløgg. To save time, you can substitute cream-style prepared horseradish for the fresh horseradish cream, though the flavor won’t be the same.

For the salmon

• 2 Tbs. black peppercorns
• 2 Tbs. coriander seeds
• 20 whole cloves
• 20 green cardamom pods
• 9 oz. kosher salt (about 1-3/4 cups Diamond Crystal or 1 cup Morton’s)
• 1-1/2 cups granulated sugar
• 2 Tbs. finely grated orange zest (from 2 oranges)
• 1 4-lb. skin-on salmon fillet (preferably wild), belly flap trimmed and pin bones removed

For the beets and horseradish cream

• 3 medium red beets, peeled, halved, and very thinly sliced
• 1/4 cup cider vinegar
• 3/4 cup crème fraîche
• 3/4 cup finely grated fresh horseradish
• 1-1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For serving

• Rye crispbreads, such as Finn Crisp or Wasa
• Fresh dill sprigs
• Lemon wedges

Cure the salmon

With a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, finely grind the peppercorns, coriander, cloves, and cardamom pods. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in the salt, sugar, and orange zest.

Arrange several long pieces of plastic wrap on a large rimmed baking sheet. Put the salmon on the plastic skin side down, cover the flesh evenly with the salt mixture, and wrap tightly. Refrigerate for 4 days.

Make the beets and horseradish cream

In a medium bowl, toss the beets with 2 Tbs. of the vinegar; let stand for at least 30 minutes.

In a small bowl, whisk the crème fraîche, horseradish, sugar, and the remaining 2 Tbs. vinegar; season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate.

Serve

Unwrap the salmon and rinse under cold running water to remove the curing mixture. Pat dry with paper towels. Transfer to a cutting board and very thinly slice the salmon (Using a long, thin, sharp knife, slice the salmon as thinly as you can. Starting at the wider end if the filet, hold the knife at a 45-degree angle and try for slices so thin that you can see the knife through the salmon). Slice only as much as you need. Garnish with the dill sprigs and serve with the beets, horseradish cream, crispbreads, and lemon wedges.

Stir-Fried Beef with Mixed Vegetables

The Sichuan preserved vegetable in this stir-fry adds a burst of salty, spicy, tangy flavor that offsets the fresh vegetables and rich, tender beef. Serve with long-grain rice.

For the beef

• 2 Tbs. oyster sauce
• 1 Tbs. Asian sesame oil
• 2 tsp. dark soy sauce
• 2 tsp. Shaoxing wine
• 2 tsp. granulated sugar
• 2 tsp. cornstarch
• Pinch of freshly ground white pepper
• 3/4 lb. beef tenderloin, trimmed of any silverskin, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices, then cut into 1/4-inch-thick strips

For the stir-fry

• 1/4 cup peanut oil
• 1 1/2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and smashed
• 2 small serrano chiles, minced (2 tsp.)
• 1 medium carrot, cut into matchsticks
• 1/2 medium red bell pepper, cut into matchsticks
• 1/2 small cucumber, cut into matchsticks
• 2 oz. snow peas, cut on the diagonal into 1/4-inch-thick strips
• 1/2 cup canned bamboo shoots, drained and cut into matchsticks
• 3 Tbs. canned shredded Sichuan preserved vegetable, drained (or whole, cut into matchsticks)
• 2 Tbs. Chinese Chicken Broth or lower-salt chicken broth
• 1 tsp. cornstarch
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced

Marinate the beef

In a large bowl, whisk the oyster sauce, sesame oil, soy sauce, Shaoxing, sugar, cornstarch, and pepper. Add the beef and toss to thoroughly coat. Refrigerate for 20 minutes.

Make the stir-fry

Heat a 14-inch wok over high heat for 45 seconds. Add 1-1/2 Tbs. of the oil and swirl it around the sides of the wok to coat. When a wisp of white smoke appears, add the ginger and cook, stirring, until beginning to brown, 20 to 30 seconds. Add the chiles, carrot, bell pepper, cucumber, snow peas, bamboo shoots, and preserved vegetable and stir-fry until the vegetables are brightly colored and just wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a large plate; discard the ginger.

In a small bowl, stir the chicken broth and cornstarch until smooth; set aside.

Wipe out the wok and clean the spatula with paper towels. Return the wok to high heat for 45 seconds. Add the remaining 2-1/2 Tbs. peanut oil and swirl to coat the sides of the wok. Add the garlic and stir-fry until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add the beef and its marinade, spreading it in a single layer around the sides and bottom of the wok; tip the wok from side to side to keep contact with the flame so the meat browns evenly on the underside, about 2 minutes. Stir the beef, add the vegetables, and stir-fry for 1 minute. Make a well in the center of the mixture, stir the cornstarch mixture to loosen, and add it to the wok. Stir the liquid until it bubbles, about 1 minute, then toss everything together and serve.

Celeriac & Yukon Gold Purée

The little bit of horseradish brightens up this earthy mash, which makes a great side dish for a pork roast or chops. The best way to peel celeriac is with a sharp paring knife. For a smooth purée, use a ricer or food mill. You can make this with a hand-held potato masher, but it will be lumpy and decidedly rustic.

• 1-1/2 lb. celeriac (1 large or 2 small), peeled and roughly chopped
• 1-1/2 lb. Yukon Gold or russet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
• 1 Tbs. plus 1-1/2 tsp. coarse salt
• 3/4 cup milk or half-and-half
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 Tbs. grated fresh or prepared horseradish, or to taste
• Fresh lemon juice to taste (I use 1 scant tsp.)
• Freshly ground white pepper

Tip:

Celeriac needs to be peeled with a knife, rather than a vegetable peeler.

Put the celeriac and potatoes in a pot, cover with water by at least an inch, and add 1 Tbs. of the salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium, cover partway, and cook until very tender, 20 to 25 min. Drain. Return the vegetables to the pot and set it over medium heat for 1 to 2 min., shaking and stirring to evaporate any excess water. Rinse a small saucepan in cold water (this will make the pan easier to clean later); pour in the milk (or half-and-half). Bring to just below a simmer over medium heat; set aside. Force the vegetables through a ricer or food mill and return them to the boiling pot. Beat in the butter with a wooden spoon. Add the milk to the potatoes a little at a time, beating vigorously after each addition. Stir in the horseradish and lemon juice. Add the remaining 1-1/2-tsp. salt, season with pepper, and serve.

Green Beans with Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette & Parmesan Breadcrumbs

Meyer lemons are less acidic than standard lemons, and their zest and juice have an herbal, even floral, undertone that makes them worth seeking out. You can also substitute regular lemons, but expect a sharper taste.

• 1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs
• 1/2 cup plus 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• Finely grated zest of one Meyer lemon
• 1/4 cup fresh Meyer lemon juice
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 2 lb. fresh green beans, trimmed

Heat the oven to 350°F. In a small bowl, toss the breadcrumbs with 2 Tbs. of the oil, a generous pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Arrange in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and toast until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Let cool and then transfer to a bowl and mix in the cheese.

In a medium bowl, whisk the lemon zest and juice, cream, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Slowly whisk in the remaining 1/2 cup oil.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook the green beans in the boiling water until tender, 4 to 6 minutes; drain well. Toss the beans with the vinaigrette. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Transfer the beans to a serving platter and sprinkle with the breadcrumbs.

Potato & Rutabaga Gratin with Blue Cheese

While rutabagas taste and behave a lot like turnips, they’re nuttier, less peppery, and creamier, which is why I prefer them in gratins. The easiest way to peel a rutabaga— especially a waxed one—is with a sharp paring knife. Use a very sharp knife or a mandoline to slice the rutabaga and potatoes.

• 3 cups heavy cream
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 hearty sprigs fresh thyme
• Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
• 3 Tbs. melted unsalted butter; more butter for the foil
• 1 medium rutabaga (about 1-1/2 lb.), peeled, quartered, and very thinly sliced
• 2 to 3 russet potatoes (about 1-1/2 lb.), peeled and very thinly sliced
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 oz. blue cheese, such as Maytag, Roquefort, or Bleu d’Auvergne, crumbled
• 3 Tbs. fresh breadcrumbs, toasted (see How to make fresh breadcrumbs for instructions)

Tip:

For the neatest servings, let the gratin sit for at least 10 min. before slicing.

Heat the oven to 375°F. Rinse a small saucepan in cold water (this will make the pan easier to clean later), add-the cream, garlic, bay leaf, thyme, and nutmeg. Bring to just below a simmer over medium heat, remove from the heat, cover, and set aside to infuse for about 30 min.

Brush a large gratin dish or 3-qt. flameproof casserole dish with a little of the melted butter. Arrange half of the rutabaga slices in the bottom of the dish, followed by half of the potato slices. Season with salt and pepper. Dot the surface with the blue cheese. Continue with another layer of rutabaga slices and a final layer of potatoes. Season the top with salt and pepper. Strain the seasoned cream over the top. In a small bowl, combine the breadcrumbs with the remaining melted butter and sprinkle over the top. Butter the dull side of a large sheet of foil and cover the gratin. Bake for 40 min., remove the foil, and continue to bake until the top is browned, the sides are bubbly, and the potatoes are tender when pierced, another 30 to 40 min. Let sit for 10 min. before serving.

Mushrooms & Spinach with Soppressata Crisps

Cremini mushrooms (also called “baby bellas”) look similar to button mushrooms but have brown caps and a meatier texture.

• 1 oz. very thinly sliced hot soppressata or other spicy dried sausage, slices quartered (about 1/4 cup or 8 slices 1/8 inch thick)
• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more for drizzling
• 15 oz. cremini mushrooms, halved if small or quartered or cut into sixths if very large (scant 5 cups)
• 5 medium scallions (white and green parts), trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces (1-1/2 cups)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 5 oz. baby spinach (about 6 cups)

Put the soppressata in a large (preferably 12-inch) skillet over medium heat. Cook until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a small plate lined with paper towels. Increase the heat to medium high and let the pan heat up for 1 minute. Pour in the oil and swirl to coat the pan. As soon as the oil is shimmering—but not smoking—add the mushrooms in an even layer. Season with salt and pepper and let cook undisturbed until the mushrooms have begun to brown, about 3 minutes. Add the scallion pieces and sauté, stirring as needed, until the mushrooms are golden brown and tender and the scallions are lightly browned in places and softened, another 6 to 7 minutes. If the vegetables seem to be cooking too fast or the pan bottom is starting to burn, lower the heat to medium. (If using an electric stovetop, take the pan off the heat momentarily to let the pan cool.) Stir in the garlic and cook for another 30 seconds. Turn off the heat and add the spinach and crisped soppressata, flipping and stirring to blend and to wilt the spinach. Season to taste with salt and pepper, drizzle with a little olive oil, and serve immediately.

Vegetable Curry and Black Rice

This is an American adaptation of the different spice blends of curry in India. You can jazz it up with black rice.

For the curry spice blend

• 2 Tbs. ground turmeric
• 1 stick cinnamon or 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1 tsp. cardamom seed
• 1/4 tsp. whole cloves
• 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
• 1/2 tsp. fennel seed
• 1/4 tsp. coriander seed
• 1/4 tsp. fenugreek
• 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

For the rice

• 1 cup black rice or basmati rice
• 2 cups water
• 1 tsp. salt, plus more for seasoning
• 2 Tbs. brown butter, divided
• 1 tsp. saffron threads
• 1/4 cup chopped pistachios
• 1 small onion, cut into small dice
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tsp. minced fresh ginger
• 2 tsp. Curry Spice Blend
• 1-1/2 cups chicken stock or vegetable stock
• 1 tsp. sugar
• 1 tsp. molasses
• 2 tsp. freshly squeezed lime juice, plus lime wedges for serving
• 1 large russet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
• 3 carrots, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 rutabaga or turnip (about 10 ounces), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1/2 head cauliflower or broccoli, cut into florets
• 1/2 cup coconut milk
• 1/4 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
• 4 sprigs fresh cilantro

Tip:

To make brown butter, set a heatproof container in an ice bath. Put 1/2 cup butter, cut into small chunks, in a small saucepan over low heat. The butter will melt, foam and start to turn brown and smell nutty in about 8 to 10 minutes. As soon as it hits this fragrance and color, remove the pan from the heat and pour into the container in the ice bath to stop the cooking. Extra brown butter will keep for several days in the fridge.

For the spice blend

Grind all the ingredients in a spice grinder and store, covered, in a cool, dark place. The curry will keep for up to a year, but it loses flavor over time. You can use a Madras curry blend, but it won’t be as dramatic.

For the rice

In a small saucepan, add the rice, the 2 cups water, and a pinch of salt. Cover and bring to a simmer. Decrease the heat to low, and cook, covered, for 15 minutes. When done, stir in 1 Tbs. of the brown butter, the saffron, and the pistachios. Set aside.

In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add the remaining 1 Tbs. brown butter and the onion. Sauté or “sweat” for 2 to 3 minutes, then add the garlic, ginger, the 1 tsp. salt, and the 2 tsp. curry blend. Stir for 1 minute to release the oils in the spices. Add the stock, sugar, molasses, and lime juice and simmer for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the potato, carrots, and rutabaga in a pot of cold water with a pinch of salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to a simmer, cook for 5 minutes, and add the cauliflower. Cook until the vegetables are easily pierced with a knife, another 5 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Add the coconut milk to the curry and then all of the vegetables. Simmer for another few minutes.

To serve, place 1 Tbs. of yogurt in the bottom of each of 4 serving bowls. Spoon some of the rice into the bowl and then arrange vegetables around and on the rice and add some of the curry sauce around the bowl. Garnish with the cilantro leaves and stems and lime wedges. Serve immediately.

Carrots and Parsnips with Bacon and Thyme

Bacon adds its smoky goodness to this versatile side dish. Cut the parsnips just a tad bigger than the carrots because they soften more quickly.

• 1 Tbs. fresh orange juice
• 2 tsp. red wine vinegar
• 2 tsp. honey
• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 3/4 lb. carrots (about 4 medium), peeled and cut into pieces 2 to 2-1/2 inches long and 1/2 inch wide
• 3/4lb. parsnips (about 4 medium), peeled, halved lengthwise, woody cores
  discarded, and cut into pieces 2-1/2 to 3 inches long and 1/2 inch wide
  
  
• 2 large shallots, root ends trimmed, peeled, and cut into 3/4-inch-wide wedges
• 5 sprigs fresh thyme plus 1/2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
• 2 slices bacon, cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces
• Kosher salt

Combine the orange juice, vinegar, and honey in a small bowl. Set aside.

In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the carrots, parsnips, shallots, thyme sprigs, bacon, and 1 tsp. salt; toss well to coat.

Cover the pan with the lid ajar by about 1 inch. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the shallots are limp and lightly browned and most of the carrots and parsnips have a little bit of brown on them, 8 to 12 minutes. As the mixture cooks, you should hear a gentle sizzle.

Uncover, turn the heat down to low, and cook, stirring occasionally and then gently pushing the vegetables back into a single layer so that most have direct contact with the pan, until the vegetables are tender and nicely browned, 12 to 16 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and discard the thyme sprigs. Stir in the orange-honey mixture and the thyme leaves, and season to taste with salt. Serve right away or let sit off the heat, partially covered, until ready to serve, and then reheat gently over medium-low heat.