Slow-Cooker Citrus-Lemongrass Rice Pudding

This simple-to-prepare rice pudding—delicious served cold or warm—is creamy and perfumed with the Thai flavors of citrus and lemongrass. It's best when made with medium-grain white rice, as for risotto. Don’t use long-grain or brown rice, which takes longer to cook and requires more liquid. To save time, zest the citrus with a Microplane rasp.

• Cooking spray
• 5-inch length fresh lemongrass, finely chopped
• 3 cups 2% milk
• 3-1⁄2 cups coconut milk (not low fat), well shaken
• 1-1⁄2 cups granulated sugar
• 1⁄2 tsp. kosher salt
• 1-1⁄2 cups uncooked medium-grain white rice, such as arborio, rinsed with cold water and drained
• 1-1⁄2 Tbs. total freshly grated lemon, orange, and lime zest (use a mixture for the best flavor); more for serving (optional)
• 1 tsp. vanilla bean paste or extract
• 1⁄8 tsp. ground cardamom

Tip:

To adapt a slow-cooker recipe to a conventional oven, follow these guidelines: add more liquid, to accommodate for greater evaporation; bring the dish to a boil over high heat in a Dutch oven, then cover the pot and put in a 350°F oven. Plan on the dish taking roughly half the time to cook in the oven as it would in the slow cooker.

Grease the slow cooker with cooking spray. Place the lemongrass on a small piece of cheesecloth, form into a bundle, and secure tightly with kitchen twine. Add to a medium-size, heavy saucepan, along with the milk, coconut milk, sugar, and salt. Stir and bring to a strong simmer over medium-high heat (to prevent curdling, do not let boil).

Pour the hot mixture, including the lemongrass sachet, into the slow cooker. Add the rice and stir well. Cover and cook on low until the rice is completely tender, about 2 hours (you want there to be some liquid left). Remove from the heat, discard the lemongrass sachet, and stir in the zest, vanilla, and cardamom.

Let cool slightly, then pour into individual serving bowls, cover, and refrigerate until cold. If desired, garnish with additional zest before serving.

Thai Beef Salad

You'll need to pound the dressing in a mortar and pestle, but the flavors you'll get are worth it. Fish sauce is strong and briny, so start with a few drops and season as you go. If you can't find clear fish sauce, use half the amount of dark fish sauce and add sea salt to taste. If you don't live near a grocer that stocks Asian ingredients, try Anzen Importers (503-233-5111), or The Spice Merchant (800-551-5999).

For the dressing:

• 1 large clove garlic, minced
• 1-1/2 Tbs. minced cilantro stems
• 2 tsp. toasted coriander seeds
• 1-1/2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1 tsp. kosher or sea salt
• 2 Tbs. clear fish sauce (or 1 Tbs. dark fish sauce and sea salt to taste)
• Juice of 1 large lime
• 7 or more Thai chiles (or 4 or more serrano chiles)

For the salad:

• 1 lb. flank steak, trimmed
• 3/4 cup pineapple juice
• Vegetable oil
• 3 large stalks lemongrass (green parts and tough outer stalks removed), minced to yield 1/2 cup
• 1 Tbs. thinly sliced kaffir lime leaves (or grated zest of 1 lime)
• 1/2 sweet onion, such as Vidalia, very thinly sliced
• 1/2 small cucumber, peeled, seeded, and thinly sliced on the diagonal
• 2 cups bite-size pieces romaine lettuce, washed and dried
• 1 cup bite-size pieces arugula, washed and dried
• 12 small cherry tomatoes, halved
• 1/4 cup mint leaves
• 1/4 cup cilantro leaves
• 6 cups warm cooked jasmine or basmati rice

To make the dressing

With a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic to a paste. Add the cilantro stems and coriander seeds and incorporate them into the paste. Add the sugar and salt; continue pounding. Mix in the fish sauce and lime juice. Add the chiles and pound them lightly until they’re crushed but still remain whole. Taste the sauce—it should be intense, with salty, sour, and peppery tastes predominating and a sweet undertone.

To grill the steak

Soak the flank steak in the pineapple juice for at least 1 hour (but no more than 3 hours) and light a hot grill fire. Remove the meat from the juice, reserving the juice for basting, and smear the meat with vegetable oil. Grill the steak, over the hottest part of the flame, searing the meat for 5 minutes on each side and basting occasionally. Remove and set aside to rest until cool enough to handle.

To assemble the salad

Slice the steak across the grain, cutting very thin, bite-size slices. Transfer to a bowl and add the minced lemongrass, lime leaves or zest, and the dressing, garnishing with the crushed chiles from the dressing. Mix well and set aside for 5 or 10 minutes to let the flavors marry. In another bowl, gently toss together the onion, cucumber, romaine, and arugula. Just before serving, add the cherry tomato halves, mint, and cilantro to the vegetables and greens. Toss gently. Add the meat mixture, toss gently, and serve the salad with the warm rice.

Vegetable Curry and Black Rice

This is an American adaptation of the different spice blends of curry in India. You can jazz it up with black rice.

For the curry spice blend

• 2 Tbs. ground turmeric
• 1 stick cinnamon or 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1 tsp. cardamom seed
• 1/4 tsp. whole cloves
• 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
• 1/2 tsp. fennel seed
• 1/4 tsp. coriander seed
• 1/4 tsp. fenugreek
• 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

For the rice

• 1 cup black rice or basmati rice
• 2 cups water
• 1 tsp. salt, plus more for seasoning
• 2 Tbs. brown butter, divided
• 1 tsp. saffron threads
• 1/4 cup chopped pistachios
• 1 small onion, cut into small dice
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tsp. minced fresh ginger
• 2 tsp. Curry Spice Blend
• 1-1/2 cups chicken stock or vegetable stock
• 1 tsp. sugar
• 1 tsp. molasses
• 2 tsp. freshly squeezed lime juice, plus lime wedges for serving
• 1 large russet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
• 3 carrots, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 rutabaga or turnip (about 10 ounces), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1/2 head cauliflower or broccoli, cut into florets
• 1/2 cup coconut milk
• 1/4 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
• 4 sprigs fresh cilantro

Tip:

To make brown butter, set a heatproof container in an ice bath. Put 1/2 cup butter, cut into small chunks, in a small saucepan over low heat. The butter will melt, foam and start to turn brown and smell nutty in about 8 to 10 minutes. As soon as it hits this fragrance and color, remove the pan from the heat and pour into the container in the ice bath to stop the cooking. Extra brown butter will keep for several days in the fridge.

For the spice blend

Grind all the ingredients in a spice grinder and store, covered, in a cool, dark place. The curry will keep for up to a year, but it loses flavor over time. You can use a Madras curry blend, but it won’t be as dramatic.

For the rice

In a small saucepan, add the rice, the 2 cups water, and a pinch of salt. Cover and bring to a simmer. Decrease the heat to low, and cook, covered, for 15 minutes. When done, stir in 1 Tbs. of the brown butter, the saffron, and the pistachios. Set aside.

In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add the remaining 1 Tbs. brown butter and the onion. Sauté or “sweat” for 2 to 3 minutes, then add the garlic, ginger, the 1 tsp. salt, and the 2 tsp. curry blend. Stir for 1 minute to release the oils in the spices. Add the stock, sugar, molasses, and lime juice and simmer for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the potato, carrots, and rutabaga in a pot of cold water with a pinch of salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to a simmer, cook for 5 minutes, and add the cauliflower. Cook until the vegetables are easily pierced with a knife, another 5 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Add the coconut milk to the curry and then all of the vegetables. Simmer for another few minutes.

To serve, place 1 Tbs. of yogurt in the bottom of each of 4 serving bowls. Spoon some of the rice into the bowl and then arrange vegetables around and on the rice and add some of the curry sauce around the bowl. Garnish with the cilantro leaves and stems and lime wedges. Serve immediately.

Shrimp Fried Rice (Chau Fan)

Unless you’re shopping in a Chinatown liquor store, it’s hard to find a good-quality white rice wine. Most supermarkets and even Chinese food markets offer only “cooking wines,” and these tend to be of poor quality. If that’s all you can find, use gin instead.

• 2 Tbs. soy sauce
• 2 Tbs. Chinese white rice wine or gin
• 1 Tbs. oyster sauce
• 2 tsp. granulated sugar
• 2 tsp. toasted sesame oil
• 3/4 tsp. table salt; more to taste
• White pepper, freshly ground if possible
• 3 large eggs
• 3 Tbs. peanut oil
• 1-1/2 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
• 1-1/2 Tbs. minced garlic (3 to 4 cloves)
• 1/2 lb. shrimp, shelled, deveined, and cut into 1/4-inch pieces
• 3 cups cooked extra-long-grain white rice, at room temperature (from 1 cup raw rice)
• 3 scallions, trimmed, white and green parts finely sliced (to yield 1/2 cup)

Tip:

If possible, use leftover rice and bring it to room temperature. If using freshly made rice, let it cool first.

In a small bowl, mix the soy sauce, rice wine or gin, oyster sauce, sugar, sesame oil, 1/2 tsp. salt, and a pinch of white pepper. In another small bowl, beat the eggs with 1/4 tsp. salt and a pinch of white pepper. Heat a 12-inch skillet or large wok over high heat for 45 seconds. Swirl 1 Tbs. of the peanut oil in the pan to coat the bottom. Add the eggs and scramble them gently with a spatula as they cook until they’re still a little soft and loose. Remove from the heat and cut the egg into small pieces with the spatula; it will finish cooking as you do this. Transfer to a bowl.

Wipe the pan and spatula clean with paper towels. Heat the pan over high heat for 45 seconds. Pour in the remaining 2 Tbs. peanut oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the ginger and garlic. Stir constantly with the spatula until the garlic is light brown, about 10 seconds. Immediately add the shrimp; stir constantly until it’s opaque, about 1 minute. Add the cooked rice. Cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to low. Stir the soy sauce mixture and then drizzle it over the rice. Stir well to completely coat the rice and mix the ingredients. Add the scrambled egg and mix well. Add the scallions and mix well. Taste and add salt if necessary. Transfer the rice to a bowl and serve.

Arroz Rojo de Chile Ancho (Ancho Chile Red Rice)

This earthy, brick-red rice is made by frying the uncooked rice with a purée of ancho chiles. The addition of milk tones down some of the chile-induced heat.

• 4 medium to large dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
• 4 cloves garlic, chopped
• 4-1/2 tsp. unsalted butter
• 1/3 cup blanched, slivered almonds
• 3 Tbs. olive oil
• 1-1/2 cups long-grain rice
• 1/3 cup finely chopped onion
• 1-3/4 cups homemade or low-salt chicken broth
• 2/3 cup milk
• 1-1/4 tsp. kosher salt
• 1 tsp. dried oregano
• 1 tsp. dried thyme
• 1/2 cup sour cream (optional)
• 1 avocado, peeled and cut into large dice or slices (optional)

Put the chiles in a small saucepan. Cover with water, bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat, cover it, and let the chiles soak for 10 to 15 minutes; drain. Put the chiles in a blender, add the garlic and 1/3 cup water, and blend for at least 1 min., starting at low speed and gradually turning to high speed, to make a purée; set aside.

Melt 1-1/2 tsp. of the butter in a small skillet over medium to medium-low heat, add the almonds and cook, stirring often, until they are golden brown but not burned. Pour onto a plate and set aside.

Heat the olive oil and the remaining butter in a large pot or Dutch oven (with a good lid) over medium heat, add the rice and onions, and sauté, stirring frequently, for 5 to 6 minutes. The rice and onions should be starting to turn golden. Turn the heat to between medium and medium high, stir in the chile purée, and continue cooking, stirring every 30 seconds, until almost all the moisture has evaporated and the rice no longer sticks together, 7 to 10 minutes. Add the broth, milk, salt, oregano, and thyme, stirring to mix well. Bring the liquid to a boil, cover the pot, turn the heat to very low, and simmer for 20 minutes. Turn off the heat, stir in the toasted almonds, cover the pot, and let the rice steam, off the heat, for about 15 minutes. Serve with a dollop of the sour cream and the avocado.

Lemon Rice Salad

A fresh lemon-herb dressing pairs well with the nutty flavor of basmati rice. Cool and gently fluff the basmati before dressing to ensure a light salad.

• 1/4 cup minced shallots or scallions (white and green parts)
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 1 cup basmati or jasmine rice, well rinsed
• 2 cups rich vegetable or chicken stock
• 1 tsp. grated lemon zest
• 2-1/2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
• 1/3 cup roughly chopped cilantro, basil, mint, or a mix
• 1 tsp. finely minced garlic
• 1/2 cup finely diced red onion, rinsed in cold water
• 1/2 cup diced red bell pepper
• 1/3 cup lightly toasted pine nuts, pepitas, or chopped cashews

In a deep saucepan over moderate heat, sauté the shallots in 1 Tbs. of the olive oil until soft but not brown. Add the rice and continue to sauté for 2 to 3 minutes longer, stirring regularly. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover, and continue to cook until all the liquid is absorbed, 14 to 16 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand, partially covered, for 5 minutes. Gently fluff the rice with a fork and pour into a large bowl to cool completely.

Add the lemon zest, juice, herbs, garlic, onion, bell pepper, nuts, and remaining 1 Tbs. of olive oil to the rice and gently stir to combine.

Wild Rice, Spiced Pecan, Apple & Sourdough Bread Stuffing

This recipe makes enough stuffing to fill the turkey and to fill an extra baking dish.

• 1-lb. loaf sourdough or peasant-style bread
• 2 cups raw wild rice
• 2 tsp. plus 1 Tbs. salt
• 3 Tbs. olive oil
• 2 medium (4-oz.) onions, cut into small dice (1-1/2 cups)
• 4 large ribs celery, cut into small dice (1-1/2 cups)
• 2 small cloves garlic, minced
• 1-1/2 Tbs. chopped fresh sage
• 1-1/2 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme
• 1-1/2 tsp. white pepper
• 3 Granny Smith apples
• 2 Tbs. butter
• 1 Tbs. sugar
• 1-2/3 cups apple cider
• 4 large eggs
• 3/4 cup homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth
• 1/2 recipe Spiced Pecans, coarsely chopped
• (see Spiced Pecans)

Two days ahead:

Trim the crust from the bread and cut the remainder into 1/2-inch dice to get 6 cups. Spread the bread on baking sheets to dry overnight.

One day ahead:

In a large pot, combine the wild rice, 6 cups water, and 2 tsp. salt. Bring to a boil, reduce to a low simmer, cover, and cook until tender and the kernels start to open, 50 to 55 minutes. Remove from the heat, drain if necessary, and spread out to cool on a baking sheet.

In a large sauté pan, heat 2 Tbs. oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions, sauté 4 minutes; add the celery and garlic and sauté until the onions are translucent, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the herbs, pepper, and 1 Tbs. salt. Cool in a shallow dish.

Meanwhile, peel, core, and dice the apples. Return the pan to the heat and add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil and 2 Tbs. butter. When the butter sizzles, add the apples and sprinkle in the sugar. Sauté until the apples begin to brown, 5 to 8 minutes. Add 2/3 cup of the cider (reserve the rest), scrape up any brown bits, and let the cider reduce for 1 min. Pour the apples and liquid into the onion mixture and let cool completely.

In a large bowl, combine the rice, bread, and apple mixture. Refrigerate.

On the day of serving:

Bring the stuffing to room temperature. Mix the eggs, 1 cup cider, and chicken broth. Fold the liquid into the stuffing mixture and mix well. It will be fairly wet. Fold in the spiced pecans. Follow the directions for stuffing the turkey and baking the extra stuffing in a pan in the Roasted Turkey recipe.

Basmati Rice Pilaf with Whole Spices, Saffron & Mint

• 1 cup uncooked white basmati rice, preferably Indian or Pakistani
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 1 tsp. cumin seeds
• 6 green or white cardamom pods
• 2 cinnamon sticks (3 inches each)
• 2 fresh or dried bay leaves
• 1 medium red onion, cut in half and thinly sliced lengthwise
• 2 tsp. kosher or coarse sea salt
• 1/4 tsp. saffron threads
• 1 cup firmly packed fresh mint leaves (from about 3 oz. mint sprigs), finely chopped

Put the rice in a bowl and gently rinse with three or four changes of water, until the water runs fairly clear. Fill the bowl halfway with cold water and let the rice soak at room temperature for 30 min. to soften the kernels. Drain.

Heat a 3-quart saucepan over medium-high heat; pour in the oil and swirl it around. It should appear to shimmer; if not, continue heating until it does. Add the cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, and bay leaves, which will sputter and crackle and smell aromatic. After 20  to 30 seconds, add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion turns golden brown, about 5 min.

Add the drained rice and toss gently with the onion and spice mixture. Pour in 1-1/2 cups cold water and sprinkle on the salt and saffron. Stir the rice just once to incorporate the salt and saffron. Leaving the pot uncovered, bring the water to a boil over the same medium-high heat. After about 3 min., when much of the water has evaporated or been absorbed (if you move some of the rice with a fork, the water should look like it comes about halfway up the rice), stir the rice once more to bring the partially cooked layer from the bottom of the pan to the surface. Cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and turn down the heat to the lowest possible setting. Cook covered for another 10 min. Without removing the cover, turn off the heat and let the pan stand off the heat, undisturbed, for another 10 min.

Remove the lid and add the mint. Fluff the rice with a fork to let the steam escape and to incorporate the mint leaves. Remove the cinnamon sticks and bay leaves and instruct your guests not to eat the cardamom pods.

Mushroom-Asparagus Risotto

Baldo rice is a great pick for this simple springtime risotto because it releases enough starch as it cooks to warrant only frequent—not constant—stirring, making this less labor intensive than most risottos.

• 7 cups lower-salt chicken or vegetable broth
• Kosher salt
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1-1/4 cups minced shallots
• 2 tsp. minced garlic
• 7 oz. white, cremini, oyster, or portobello mushrooms, stemmed, cleaned, and coarsely chopped (2 cups)
• 12-1/4 oz. (1-3/4 cups) Turkish baldo rice
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 6 oz. medium asparagus spears (about 10), trimmed and cut on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces (1 cup)
• 1 oz. Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated (1 cup using a rasp grater)
• Freshly ground black pepper

Put the broth in a 3-quart saucepan, add a pinch of salt, and bring to a boil over high heat; lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Heat the oil in a wide, heavy-duty 5- to 6-quart pot over medium-high heat. Add the shallots, lower the heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the mushrooms, raise the heat to high, and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 2 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add the rice, and cook, stirring often, until the rice is lightly toasted, about 3 minutes.

Add the wine and cook, stirring, until most of it is absorbed, about 30 seconds.

Stir about 1-1/2 cups of the simmering broth into the rice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until most of the broth is absorbed, about 1 minute. Add another 1-1/2 cups broth and cook, stirring frequently, until most of it is absorbed, about 3 minutes. Repeat the process once or twice more, tasting the rice every few minutes after the third broth addition until it’s just shy of firm to the bite but without a crunchy center, about 12 minutes after the first addition of broth.

Stir in the asparagus and 1 cup broth. Cover, lower the heat to the low, and cook until the asparagus is crisp-tender and the rice is tender but with some resistance, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and fold in the cheese. Cover and let stand for 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and serve right away, sprinkled with black pepper.

Arroz Verde (Green Rice)

Rich and refined, arroz verde is one of the most popular dishes I present to cooking classes.

• 1/2 cup tightly packed fresh cilantro sprigs (about 1/2 oz.)
• 1 cup tightly packed fresh stemmed spinach leaves (about 1-1/2 oz.)
• 1-1/4 cups homemade or low-salt chicken broth
• 1-1/4 cups milk
• 1 tsp. kosher salt
• 1 Tbs. olive oil
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1-1/2 cups long-grain rice
• 1/4 cup finely minced onion
• 1 clove garlic, minced

Put the cilantro, spinach, and broth in a blender and blend until the vegetables are puréed. Add the milk and salt and blend a bit more until well combined.

In a medium (3-qt.) heavy-based saucepan (with a good lid) over medium heat, heat the olive oil and butter. When the butter is melted, add the rice and sauté, stirring about every 30 seconds, until it just begins to brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the onion and garlic and cook 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add the contents of the blender, stir well, turn the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Cover the pan, turn the heat to very low, and cook for 20 minutes. Stir the rice carefully to avoid crushing it, cover, and cook another 5 minutes.

Take the pan off the heat and let the rice steam in the covered pot for 10 minutes. Serve hot.

Risotto Under Pressure

"This speedy recipe is one of my favorites for the pressure cooker," says Abigail Johnson Dodge, Fine Cooking's former test kitchen director. "In less than ten minutes I've got a great side dish for grilled chicken or pork. To make it into a main dish, I add leftover vegetables like mushrooms, broccoli, or peas, along with some chopped prosciutto."

• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 large shallot, minced
• Pinch saffron (optional)
• 3/4 cup arborio rice
• 2 cups homemade or low-salt chicken broth (or 1-3/4 cups broth plus 1/4 cup white wine)
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 Tbs. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; more to taste
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Heat 2 Tbs. of the butter in a 4-qt. or larger pressure cooker over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook, stirring often, until soft, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the saffron, if using, and cook 1 minute. Add the rice and stir until the grains are well coated with the melted butter. Add the chicken broth (or broth and wine) and lock the lid in place. Increase the heat to high until the cooker reaches high pressure. Reduce the heat as necessary to maintain the high pressure setting and cook for 6 minutes.

Remove the pot from the heat and immediately release all the pressure (either using a quick-release feature or by running the pot under cold water, keeping the steam vent tilted away from you). Unlock and remove the lid and check the consistency of the rice and the amount of liquid.

If need be, pop the pan (uncovered) back on medium-high heat and cook, stirring, until the rice is al dente and the risotto is silky and creamy, not soupy. Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining 1 Tbs. butter, the parsley, Parmigiano, and salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

Wehani Rice & Barley Salad

If you can’t find Wehani rice, double the amount of barley; the salad won’t be as colorful, but it will still taste great.

• 1 Tbs. olive oil
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 cup Lundberg’s Wehani rice (available in some supermarkets and specialty food stores)
• 1 cup pearl barley
• Kosher salt
• 2/3 cup coarsely ground cracked bulgur wheat
• 2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 cup red-wine vinegar
• 2/3 cup chopped red onion
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, or a mixture of parsley and any or all of the following fresh herbs: basil, rosemary, and thyme
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced scallions

• Freshly ground black pepper

In a large, heavy-based saucepan, heat the 1 Tbs. olive oil over medium heat. Add the bay leaf, rice, and barley and toast lightly, stirring, about 3 minutes. Add 4 cups water and 1/2 tsp. salt. Cover and simmer until the rice has begun to burst and the barley is somewhat soft and doubled in size, 40 to 50 minutes. Drain any excess water and spread the grains on a baking sheet to cool. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, bring 2/3 cup water and 1/2 tsp. salt to a rolling boil. Pour over the bulgur and let stand for 15 minutes. Fluff the bulgur and spread on a baking sheet to cool.

In a large bowl, combine the rice and barley with the bulgur. Add the extra-virgin olive oil, vinegar, onion, herbs, garlic, scallions, salt, and pepper. Toss well.

Rice and Beans with Fried Eggs

Served with soft corn tortillas, this traditional Costa Rican dish works for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Salsa Lizano is a Costa Rican condiment that’s similar to Worcestershire sauce but thicker and sweeter—you can substitute Worcestershire for it, but the flavor will be more assertive.

• 3/4 cup long-grain white rice
• Kosher salt
• 2 Tbs. canola oil
• 1 small yellow onion, cut into small dice
• 1/2 medium red bell pepper, seeded and cut into small dice
• 2 large cloves garlic, minced
• 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
• 1/4 cup canned tomato sauce
• 1 (15-1/2-oz.) can black beans, drained and rinsed
• 3 Tbs. Salsa Lizano; more to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 8 large eggs
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro

Put the rice, a big pinch of salt, and 1-1/2 cups of water in a 3-quart saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the rice has absorbed the water and is tender, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside with the lid on.


Meanwhile, heat 1 Tbs. of the oil in a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, bell pepper, garlic, and a pinch of salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the cumin and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomato sauce and stir for 1 minute. Add the beans and 1 cup of water and simmer until the liquid reduces to the level of the beans, about 4 minutes.


Add the rice to the beans and mix well. Stir in the Salsa Lizano and season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep warm.


Heat the remaining 1 Tbs. of oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, swirling the pan to coat evenly. Gently crack the eggs into the pan. Season with salt and pepper, cover, and cook until the yolks’ edges have just begun to set, 2 to 3 minutes. (The eggs should cook gently, so lower the heat if needed.) Separate the eggs with the edge of a spatula.


To serve, put a heaping spoonful of the rice and beans on a plate and slide 2 eggs on top. Sprinkle with the cilantro.

White Sticky Rice with Mango

This dessert is a favorite of the Thais--and quickly becomes so to anyone who tastes it. The coconut cream must be thick and creamy. Making your own is best, but if you use the canned stuff, don't shake the can and use the solid plug of coconut cream at the top.

For the sweet coconut cream:

• 1/2 cup coconut cream
• ½ tsp. rice flour, mixed with a little water or coconut cream to form a paste
• good pinch of salt
• 1/2 to 1 pandanus leaf (optional, but desirable)
• 2 Tbs. white sugar, more to taste

Tip:

You can make your own coconut cream (aka thick coconut milk) or use the thick, solidified portion from a can of coconut milk

For the sticky rice:

• 1 cup white sticky rice
• 6-8 Thai jasmine flowers  (optional)
• 2-3 pandanus leaves (optional)
• 1/2 cup castor (superfine) sugar
• 1-1/2  tsp. salt, to taste
• 1/2 cup thick coconut cream
• 2 Tbs. yellow mung beans
• 2 ripe mangoes
• sweet coconut cream (see below)

Make the sweet coconut cream:

Mix the coconut cream with the flour paste in a small saucepan or brass wok, stirring rigorously to incorporate. Add the salt and pandanus leaf, if using, then bring to the boil, stirring constantly to ensure the cream does not separate. When the coconut cream has thickened, add the sugar and immediately remove the pan from the heat. Stir until the sugar has dissolved. Allow to cool before serving.

Make the sticky rice:

Rinse the rice carefully to remove any excess starch without breaking the grains. Soak it overnight, with 2-3 Thai jasmine flowers, if possible.

The next day, drain the rice, rinse and place in a metal steamer; normally the raw grains of rice cling together, so they rarely fall through the holes, but if you're feeling cautious line the steamer with some rinsed muslin (cheesecloth). Make sure the rice is not piled too high in the center, nor too widely spread. Add a pandanus leaf or two to the water in the base of the steamer, if you like, then steam the rice until tender (test some grains from the area where the mound of rice is deepest); this should take about 45 minutes to 1 hour. During this time, make sure that there is plenty of water in the steamer; if you need to top up the water level, use boiling water so as not to interrupt the steaming. When you check on the rice, wipe dry the inside of the steamer lid before replacing it.

Meanwhile, stir the sugar and salt into the coconut cream until dissolved. When the rice is cooked, remove from the steamer and place in a glass or ceramic bowl, then pour over the prepared coconut cream and stir to incorporate fully. (It is important that the rice is still piping hot, so it will more completely absorb the coconut cream and become rich and glistening.) If you like, you can plunge a knotted pandanus leaf into the rice and dot the surface with a few Thai jasmine flowers. Cover and set aside in a warm place for 15 minutes before serving. Some cooks like to swaddle the bowl in a towel to keep it warm and snug!

While the rice is settling, soak the mung beans in water for about 5 minutes then drain well. Dry-roast the mung beans over a low heat in a small, heavy-based pan or a wok, shaking often, until they are golden brown and smell nutty. Remove from the heat and, if necessary, crush coarsely using a pestle and mortar or an electric grinder.

To serve:

Peel the mangoes with a sharp knife, then cut the flesh away from the central stone into cheeks. Cut each cheek crosswise into five or six slices.

Divide the rice among four bowls, then place a sliced mango cheek alongside and cover with a spoonful or two of sweetened coconut cream. Sprinkle with the mung beans and serve.

Mushroom-Asparagus Risotto

Baldo rice is a great pick for this simple springtime risotto because it releases enough starch as it cooks to warrant only frequent—not constant—stirring, making this less labor intensive than most risottos.

• 7 cups lower-salt chicken or vegetable broth
• Kosher salt
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1-1/4 cups minced shallots
• 2 tsp. minced garlic
• 7 oz. white, cremini, oyster, or portobello mushrooms, stemmed, cleaned, and coarsely chopped (2 cups)
• 12-1/4 oz. (1-3/4 cups) Turkish baldo rice
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 6 oz. medium asparagus spears (about 10), trimmed and cut on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces (1 cup)
• 1 oz. Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated (1 cup using a rasp grater)
• Freshly ground black pepper

Put the broth in a 3-quart saucepan, add a pinch of salt, and bring to a boil over high heat; lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Heat the oil in a wide, heavy-duty 5- to 6-quart pot over medium-high heat. Add the shallots, lower the heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the mushrooms, raise the heat to high, and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 2 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add the rice, and cook, stirring often, until the rice is lightly toasted, about 3 minutes.

Add the wine and cook, stirring, until most of it is absorbed, about 30 seconds.

Stir about 1-1/2 cups of the simmering broth into the rice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until most of the broth is absorbed, about 1 minute. Add another 1-1/2 cups broth and cook, stirring frequently, until most of it is absorbed, about 3 minutes. Repeat the process once or twice more, tasting the rice every few minutes after the third broth addition until it’s just shy of firm to the bite but without a crunchy center, about 12 minutes after the first addition of broth.

Stir in the asparagus and 1 cup broth. Cover, lower the heat to the low, and cook until the asparagus is crisp-tender and the rice is tender but with some resistance, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and fold in the cheese. Cover and let stand for 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and serve right away, sprinkled with black pepper.

Creole-Style Shrimp Jambalaya

A creole-style (red) jambalaya always includes tomatoes. I like using tomato paste instead of canned or fresh tomatoes because it adds deeper flavor and gives the finished dish a rich hue. The shrimp are cooked for a long time, which may seem odd, but this method yields a flavorful jambalaya with tender—never mushy—shrimp. If you can find head-on shrimp, this is the place to use them; just remove and discard the heads at the point in the recipe where you peel and devein the shrimp.

• 6 scallions, thinly sliced (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
• 3 medium stalks celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
• 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
• 2 lb. large (31 to 35 per lb.) shrimp, preferably wild-caught
• 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 1/4 lb. ham, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 3 Tbs. tomato paste
• 1 dried bay leaf
• 1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• 1/4 tsp. cayenne
• 1/8 tsp. chili powder
• 1/8 tsp. ground allspice
• Pinch of ground cloves
• Kosher salt
• 2 cups long-grain white rice
• 1 tsp. sweet paprika
• Hot sauce, preferably Crystal (optional)

In a 4-quart heavy-duty saucepan, combine the scallion trimmings, celery trimmings, and onion trimmings with 5-1/2 cups of water; bring to a boil over high heat. Add the shrimp, let the water return to a boil, and cook until pink and cooked through, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit for 3 minutes. Strain through a sieve set over a large glass measuring cup, reserving the stock. You will need 4-1/2 cups of stock, so add water if necessary. When cool enough to handle, peel and devein the shrimp. Discard the shells and trimmings.

Melt the butter in a 5- to 6-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven (or other heavy-duty pot) over medium-high heat. Add the celery, onion, and bell pepper and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 7 minutes. Add the ham and the reserved shrimp and cook, stirring often, until any excess moisture evaporates and the ham and vegetables begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until a shade darker, about 3 minutes. Stir in the bay leaf, thyme, cayenne, chili powder, allspice, cloves, and 1-1/2 tsp. salt. Stir in the rice. Add the reserved stock and bring to a boil. Cover, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, undisturbed, just until the rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Check the rice for doneness in several places.

Remove the pot from the heat. Sprinkle the paprika over the jambalaya and, using a fork, gently fluff the scallions and paprika into the jambalaya. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes to let the flavors meld. Serve with hot sauce, if you like.

Cheesy Rice with Garlic and Thyme

Imagine risotto crossed with macaroni and cheese, and that’s what you get in this comforting side dish. Dried porcini lend a savory edge without an overt mushroom flavor. Serve alongside a simple roast chicken, or seared veal or pork chops.

• 1/2 cup dried porcini mushrooms
• Kosher salt
• 1 cup carnaroli or Arborio rice
• 4 Tbs. unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
• 1 medium clove garlic, finely chopped
• 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme
• 3-1/2 oz. (1 cup) coarsely grated fontina
• 3/4oz. (1/2 cup) firmly packed, freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving
• Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving
• Freshly ground white pepper

Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil in a 3- to 4-quart saucepan over high heat.

Pulse the mushrooms in a spice grinder until they’re about the size of raw oatmeal flakes.Add the mushrooms, 1 Tbs. salt, and the rice to the boiling water. Reduce the heat to medium to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is al dente, 10 to 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in an 8-inch sauté pan over medium-high heat, swirling continuously until it turns a deep golden-brown (be careful not to burn it). Immediately remove the pan from the heat and stir in the garlic and thyme. Set aside.

Set a large, fine strainer over a bowl and strain the cooked rice and mushrooms, catching the broth in the bowl. Return the rice mixture to the pan over low heat. Stir in the cheeses and the butter mixture and moisten the rice with 1/4 to 1/2 cup of the broth. Season to taste with salt and pepper and cook another 2 to 3 minutes. Serve with more Parmigiano-Reggiano on top.

Cheesy Rice with Garlic and Thyme

Imagine risotto crossed with macaroni and cheese, and that’s what you get in this comforting side dish. Dried porcini lend a savory edge without an overt mushroom flavor. Serve alongside a simple roast chicken, or seared veal or pork chops.

• 1/2 cup dried porcini mushrooms
• Kosher salt
• 1 cup carnaroli or Arborio rice
• 4 Tbs. unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
• 1 medium clove garlic, finely chopped
• 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme
• 3-1/2 oz. (1 cup) coarsely grated fontina
• 3/4oz. (1/2 cup) firmly packed, freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving
• Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving
• Freshly ground white pepper

Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil in a 3- to 4-quart saucepan over high heat.

Pulse the mushrooms in a spice grinder until they’re about the size of raw oatmeal flakes.Add the mushrooms, 1 Tbs. salt, and the rice to the boiling water. Reduce the heat to medium to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is al dente, 10 to 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in an 8-inch sauté pan over medium-high heat, swirling continuously until it turns a deep golden-brown (be careful not to burn it). Immediately remove the pan from the heat and stir in the garlic and thyme. Set aside.

Set a large, fine strainer over a bowl and strain the cooked rice and mushrooms, catching the broth in the bowl. Return the rice mixture to the pan over low heat. Stir in the cheeses and the butter mixture and moisten the rice with 1/4 to 1/2 cup of the broth. Season to taste with salt and pepper and cook another 2 to 3 minutes. Serve with more Parmigiano-Reggiano on top.

Southwestern Rice Pilaf

This dish makes a delicious accompaniment to steak or chicken fajitas.

• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium onion, medium diced (1-1/2 cups)
• 1 medium poblano, stemmed, seeded, and finely diced (1/2 cup)
• 4 large cloves garlic, minced (2 Tbs.)
• 1-1/2 tsp. chili powder
• 1 tsp. ground cumin
• 1-1/2 cups long-grain white rice
• 1 tsp. kosher salt; more as needed
• 2-1/2 cups low-salt chicken broth
• 1 14-oz. can diced tomatoes, drained well
• 1 lime
• 1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 jalapeño, stemmed, seeded, and minced

In a heavy-based 3-qt. saucepan with a tight lid, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, poblano, and garlic, and reduce the heat to medium low. Cook for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the chili powder and cumin and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is softened and the spices are very fragrant, about 3 minutes.

Add the rice and salt, and stir well to coat each grain with oil. Toast for a full 5 minutes, stirring regularly to keep the grains separated and to prevent them from sticking to the bottom of the pan (the rice may turn opaque before 5 minutes is up, but keep going). Reduce the heat to low if there are any signs of scorching.

Tip:

Fluff the rice by slipping the tines of a fork down into the rice alongside the edge of the pan. Gently lift and toss the rice toward the center of the pan. Continue this process as you work your way around the perimeter. Then add your finishing-touch ingredients and gently fold them in with the fork, using a similar gentle fluffing motion.

Add the chicken broth and tomatoes, stir once, and bring to a boil over medium heat.  Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 18 minutes. Remove from the heat and let the pilaf sit, still covered, for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, finely grate 1 Tbs. zest from the lime, and then cut the lime into wedges.

Once the pilaf has rested, remove the lid and fluff the rice with a fork. Using the fork, gently fold in the cilantro, jalapeño, and lime zest. Season to taste with salt. Serve with the lime wedges for spritzing over the rice.

Calas Fried Rice Fritters

Crisp around the edges with a plump, toothsome belly, these fritters beg to be served with obscene quantities of earthy, sorghum-like cane syrup, though traditionalists may opt for confectioners’ sugar instead.

• 1/2 cup long-grain white rice (Mahatma brand if you can find it)
• Peanut oil for frying
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 3 large eggs
• 2 tsp. sugar
• 1 tsp. vanilla extract
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• Cane syrup for serving

Tip:

I usually make calas when I have leftover rice in the fridge—whether it’s from Monday’s red beans or Chinese takeout. If using leftover rice, add 1-1/2 cups of cooked, cold rice to the batter.

Bring 1 cup of water and a pinch of salt to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the rice, stir once, reduce the heat to low, and cover the pan, cooking 18 to 20 minutes or until the grains of rice are plump and fluff apart with a fork. Turn the rice out onto a parchment paper–lined baking sheet and cool for 15 minutes, then transfer to a plastic container (don’t pack it in). Cover with plastic wrap and poke a few holes in the top. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to 2 days.


Pour enough peanut oil into a large pot to fill it to a 2-1/2- to 3-inch depth and bring to a temperature between 350°F and 360°F over medium heat. Line a plate with paper towels and set aside.


While the oil heats up, place the flour, baking powder, and cinnamon in a medium bowl.


Using a stand mixer or a hand mixer, beat the eggs, sugar, and vanilla on high speed until foamy and tripled in volume, 1-1/2 to 2 minutes. Sift in half of the dry ingredients, add the salt, and mix on low speed until only a few dry streaks remain. Sift in the remaining dry ingredients and mix on low speed for a few turns, then add the rice and mix until the fritter batter just comes together into a loose, roughly textured ball.


Once your oil is hot, dip a teaspoon in the hot oil, then into the batter and scoop out a heaping teaspoonful. Hold the spoon close to the oil and let the batter roll off and into the oil. Repeat with the remaining batter; using a slotted spoon, turn and baste the fritters occasionally, allowing them to become golden brown on all sides. (Fry the fritters in two batches if your pot becomes overcrowded.) If the temperature of the oil dips below 350°F, increase the heat to medium-high. Once the fritters are golden brown, transfer them to the prepared plate to cool slightly. Serve on a small plate drizzled with lots of cane syrup.