Roasted Salmon with Shiitake, Leek & Arugula Salad

Need to eat and run? No problem. Roasting the fish and vegetables in one pan keeps cleanup to a minimum.

• 1/2 lb. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced 1/4 inch thick
• 1 medium leek, white and light-green parts only, halved lengthwise, rinsed well, and sliced 1/8 inch thick
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 medium lemon
• 4 skinless salmon fillets, 6 to 8 oz. each
• 3 lightly packed cups (3 oz.) baby arugula

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 450°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment.

In a medium bowl, toss the mushrooms, leek, oil, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Finely grate the lemon zest. In a small bowl, mix the zest with 1 tsp. salt and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Arrange the salmon on the baking sheet, rub the lemon zest mixture on the tops and sides of the fillets, and scatter the mushrooms and leeks around the fish in a single layer.

Roast until the vegetables are tender and the fish is opaque in the center, about 15 minutes. If the fish finishes cooking before the vegetables, transfer it to a plate and continue to roast the vegetables until tender, 3 to 5 minutes more.

Combine the arugula and roasted vegetables in a large bowl. Squeeze about 1 Tbs. juice from the lemon onto the vegetables and toss to combine. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and more lemon juice. Divide the mixture among four serving plates. Top each salad with a piece of the fish and serve.

Herb & Lemon Roasted Salmon on a Bed of Roasted Potatoes & Sauteed Greens

The lemon-herb marinade does double-duty in this recipe. Use a generous amount to marinate the salmon, and then drizzle some on the potatoes before roasting. You might still have some leftover; use it to marinate chicken or lamb. I like to highlight the lemon flavor by drizzling a little lemon oil on the salmon just before serving. Don’t skip this step: it really pulls the flavors of the dish together.

• 1-1/2 cups olive oil, plus 2 Tbs. for sautéing the greens
• 3 Tbs. coarsely grated lemon zest
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 Tbs. fresh thyme
• 2 Tbs. chopped garlic
• 6 portions skinless salmon fillet, 6 oz. each
• Lemon Oil (see below)
• 2 lb. medium red or yellow potatoes (or 1 lb. each)
• Kosher salt and coarsely ground black pepper
• 12 cloves garlic, roasted and coarsely chopped
• 2-1/2 oz. (1/2 cup) pine nuts, toasted
• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) raisins, covered with 1/4 cup port and macerated for several hours or overnight (optional)
• 12 cups packed arugula, about 20 oz. (tough stems removed), or two 10-oz. bags spinach (stems removed), cleaned thoroughly and put in a large bowl covered with damp paper towels and plastic wrap in the refrigerator

For the lemon oil:

• 1 cup best-quality extra-virgin olive oil
• Grated zest of 2 lemons

One day ahead:

Make the marinade: Combine the 1-1/2 cups olive oil,  lemon zest, parsley, thyme, and the 2 Tbs. chopped garlic. Keep the marinade covered in the refrigerator.

Marinate the salmon: Preferably the night before or at least 1 hour before cooking, cover the salmon with about 1 cup of the marinade and keep covered in the refrigerator. Reserve the remaining marinade separately in the refrigerator.

Make the lemon oil: Combine the oil and lemon zest. Store it in a squeeze bottle (or a glass jar) in the refrigerator. 

One hour ahead:

Roast the potatoes: Heat the oven to 425°F. Slice the potatoes 3/16 inch thick. (Cut through the shortest width of the potato; discard the ends.) Make sure there are 8 slices per person (48 slices total). Rub a rimmed baking sheet or jellyroll pan with a little oil. Lay eight potato slices in two slightly overlapping lines about 5 to 6 inches long and a total of 4 inches wide. Repeat with the remaining potatoes to make six separate beds for the salmon. Space the beds an inch apart.

Season the potatoes with plenty of salt and pepper and drizzle them with some of the reserved lemon-herb marinade. Cook until the potatoes are tender and beginning to turn golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes. Set the potatoes, still on the baking sheet, aside. Reduce the oven temperature to 400°F.

Set the 2 Tbs. olive oil, pine nuts, raisins, chopped roasted garlic, and bowl of washed greens next to the stove and put a large sauté pan on a burner. Take the salmon out of the refrigerator to come to room temperature.

20 minutes before serving:

Lift the salmon out of the marinade, letting excess oil drain off but leaving the herbs on the salmon undisturbed. Put a fillet on top of each bed of potatoes on the baking sheet. Season generously with salt and pepper. Put the pan in the oven and cook 12 to 14 minutes for medium-rare salmon or 16 minutes for medium. Pull from the oven and let rest before serving.

While the salmon is resting, heat the sauté pan over medium to medium high, add the olive oil, pine nuts, raisins, and chopped roasted garlic, and simmer for 1 minute. Add the arugula or spinach, season with salt and pepper, and cook until just wilted, 1 to 3 minutes, tossing with tongs constantly to mix the ingredients. (Add the arugula in batches, if necessary; when the first batch wilts, add the next and toss).

To serve: Using tongs, carefully spread the arugula loosely on the bottom of each plate, almost in a ring. Carefully slide a spatula under a bed of potatoes, lift the potatoes and salmon together, and set them in the center of the plate over the greens. Drizzle a generous 1 tsp. lemon oil over all. Repeat with the remaining salmon. Serve immediately.

Salmon Fillets with Herbed Leeks

A bed of herbed leeks perfumes baked fish and makes a delicious garnish. Halibut or snapper would work as nicely as salmon.

For the fish:

• 4 salmon fillets (6 oz. each)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 leaves fresh sage
• 4 sprigs fresh thyme
• Grated zest of 1/2 lemon

For the leeks:

• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 3 large or 4 medium leeks (root and dark green parts removed), diced (to yield 3 cups), washed, and dried
• 1/2 tsp. salt; more to taste
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh sage
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh thyme
• Freshly ground black pepper

Season the fish fillets with salt and pepper. Drizzle them lightly with olive oil, rub them with the sage and thyme, and spread with the lemon zest. Lay a sage leaf and a sprig of thyme on each fillet. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to an hour.

Heat the oven to 400°F. In a wide, heavy sauté pan, heat the butter and olive oil until very hot. Add the diced leeks, stir to coat well, and reduce the heat to medium low. Salt them lightly, stir again, and continue to cook slowly until the leeks are soft, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding a few tablespoons of water if the pan gets too dry or the leeks are browning too much. Add the garlic, chopped herbs, salt, and pepper and cook for a few minutes until the garlic is soft and fragrant. Spread the leeks in the bottom of a 2-1/2-qt. ovenproof baking dish. Lay the fish fillets on top and bake until a paring knife inserted in the fish feels warm when touched to your lip, about 20 minutes. To serve, spoon the herbed leeks over each fillet.

Rare Grilled Salmon Fillets with Asian Slaw

Shredded cabbage, Thai basil, peanuts, jalapeño chiles, and a Fresno pepper create a slaw that’s perfectly crunchy and bright with a bit of heat—just what a mellow-tasting salmon calls for.

For the slaw

• 2 cups canola oil, more for the grill
• 7 fresh square wonton wrappers, cut into 1/8-inch strips
• 1/4 cup fresh lime juice (2 medium limes)
• 1 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1 Tbs. fish sauce
• Kosher salt
• 1/2 white cabbage, halved lengthwise, cored and very thinly sliced (about 8 cups)
• 1 large carrot, peeled and coarsely shredded (about 1 cup)
• 1/2 cup packed fresh Thai basil leaves, thinly sliced
• 1/2 cup peanuts, preferably raw, coarsely chopped
• 1 to 2 medium jalapeño chiles, coarsely chopped, including seeds
• 1 fresh red Fresno pepper, seeded, ribs removed, and coarsely chopped

For the salmon

• Four 6-oz. skin-on salmon fillets
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 1 Tbs. unbleached all-purpose flour

Make the slaw

Heat the canola oil in a 3-quart pot over medium-high heat until a strip of wonton dropped into the oil bubbles vigorously. Add the wontons in 3 small batches, stirring gently, until golden, 20 to 30 seconds, and transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. Set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk the lime juice, sugar, fish sauce, and 1 tsp. salt until the sugar and salt are dissolved. Add the remaining ingredients except for the wonton strips and toss to coat. Let sit to soften slightly, about 30 minutes.

Cook the salmon

Prepare a charcoal or gas grill fire for direct grilling over medium-high heat (about 400°F), or heat a grill pan on top of the stove. Oil the grill grate well.

Pat the salmon dry and season with salt and pepper. Spread the olive oil in a small, rimmed baking sheet and spread the flour on a plate. Dip the fillets, skin side down, in the flour, knocking off any excess; then put on the oiled sheet, turning once to coat both sides. Leave on sheet.

Grill the salmon, skin-side down. For rare only, loosely cover with foil, until the sides are opaque but the top is still translucent, about 7–8 minutes. For fully cooked salmon, turn the fillets over and cook for an additional 2 to 3 minutes.

Garnish the slaw with the fried wonton strips and serve with the salmon.

Smoked Salmon & Cucumber Tea Sandwiches

• 1/2 cup crème fraîche
• 3 Tbs. chopped fresh dill
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• One-half medium English cucumber
• 8 large slices pumpernickel bread, each cut into four 2-inch triangles
• 1/4 lb. thinly sliced cold-smoked salmon, cut into 16 pieces

In a small bowl, mix the crème fraîche with the dill and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Peel the cucumber. Then, using the peeler, shave 16 wide strips from several sides of the cucumber (discard the seed core). In a medium bowl, toss the cucumber strips with 1/4 tsp. salt and let sit until softened, about 10 minutes. Pat dry with paper towels.

Spread the creme fraiche generously on one side of each bread triangle (you may not use it all). Top half of the triangles with a folded cucumber strip, a curl of the salmon, and a grind of black pepper. Set the remaining bread on top and serve.

Herb-Buttermilk-Marinated Salmon with Cucumber Salad

The salmon is delicious either warm or at room temperature.

For the salmon

• 2 cups buttermilk
• 1/2 cup lightly packed fresh basil leaves, coarsely chopped
• 1/2 cup lightly packed fresh cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped
• 1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions (about 6 medium scallions)
• 1/4 cup white vinegar
• 2 Tbs. honey
• 1 Tbs. ground ginger
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 sides of salmon (3 lb. each), skin and pin bones removed

For the cucumber salad:

• 3 large English cucumbers, cut in half lengthwise, seeded, and sliced crosswise (about 9-1/2 cups)
• 1 large red onion, cut in half and thinly sliced (about 2 cups)
• 1 cup pitted Kalamata olives, cut in half
• 1 cup crumbled feta cheese
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Marinate and roast the salmon:

In a food processor, combine the buttermilk, basil, cilantro, scallions, vinegar, honey, ginger, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/8 tsp. pepper. Process until smooth, about 30 seconds. Set aside 3/4 cup for the salad.

Thirty minutes before roasting the salmon, pour the remaining marinade over the salmon in a large rimmed dish and let sit at room temperature. (For the best texture, don't marinate longer than 30 minutes.)

While the salmon is marinating, position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with foil. When ready to roast the salmon, remove it from the marinade and set on the baking sheet. Bake until just firm to the touch and opaque in the center (use a paring knife to peek), 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest in the pan for 10 minutes.

Make the salad:

In a medium bowl, mix the cucumbers, onion, olives, cheese, and 1-1/2 tsp. salt. Toss with the reserved buttermilk dressing and season to taste with more salt and pepper.

Serve:

Use two large spatulas to carefully move the salmon to a platter. Spoon some of the cucumber salad around the salmon and serve the rest in a bowl on the side.

A New York Breakfast

There's something about the combination of silky smoked salmon, soft cream cheese, crunchy onion and juicy tomato that is more than the sum of its parts. In this recipe, excerpted from The Food You Crave, thinly sliced pumpernickel takes the place of the massive bagel (which is equivalent to 4 to 5 pieces of bread) for a sensible breakfast that's simple, sophisticated, modern, and classic all at once.

• 8 pieces thin pumpernickel bread (3-1/2 inches square)
• 1/4 cup whipped cream cheese
• 8 oz. thinly sliced smoked slamon
• 1/2 red onion, thinly sliced
• 1/4 English cucumber, thinly sliced
• 2 medium ripe tomatoes, cored, seeded, and diced
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh chives
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Toast the bread, then spread 1-1/2 tsp. of cream cheese on top of each piece. Put a slice of smoked slamon, a couple of slices of onion, a slice or two of cucumber, and about 1 Tbs. of chopped tomato on top. Sprinkle with the chives and season with salt and pepper.

Fresh Salmon Croque Madame

A classic Croque Madame is a grilled cheese sandwich with a fried egg on top. In this version, the soft yolk becomes a delicious sauce for an open-faced sandwich of grilled salmon on a bed of Swiss chard.

• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 small bunch Swiss chard or other leafy green, washed, dried
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 2 1/2-inch-thick slices country hearth bread
• 1 clove garlic, peeled
• 2 Tbs. cream cheese
• 1 Tbs. capers, drained and rinsed
• Two 4-oz. salmon fillets, skin removed
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 large eggs

Heat 1 Tbs. of the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the Swiss chard and cook until wilted and soft, stirring occasionally, 5 to 7 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set aside to cool slightly.

Heat a panini or sandwich press according to the manufacturer's instructions. Brush both sides of each slice of bread with 1 Tbs. of the olive oil. Place on the press, pull the top down, and cook until toasted, 1 to 2 minutes. Rub one side of each toasted slice with the garlic clove. Spread 1 Tbs. of cream cheese on each slice. Sprinkle with the capers.

Brush the salmon on both sides with the remaining 2 Tbs. olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place the salmon on the press, pull the top down, and cook until seared and cooked to your desired degree of doneness, at least 3 minutes.

While the salmon is cooking, heat the butter in a medium skillet. Carefully crack the eggs into the skillet, taking care not to break the yolks. Sprinkle 1 tsp. water onto each egg and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover the skillet and cook on medium-high heat until the whites are firm and the yolks are still soft, 2 to 3 minutes.

Arrange the cooked greens on top of the cream cheese, place a salmon fillet on top of each bed of greens, and slide a fried egg on top of each piece of salmon. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Roasted Salmon with Mustard and Tarragon

Fresh tarragon pairs beautifully with salmon, and just a little goes a long way in this simple recipe.

• 1/4 cup mayonnaise
• 1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. coarse-grained Dijon mustard
• 2 tsp. fresh lime juice
• 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh tarragon
• 6 6-oz. center-cut, skin-on salmon fillets
• Kosher salt

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Line a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet with foil.

In a small bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, mustard, lime juice, and tarragon. Arrange the salmon skin side down on the baking sheet and sprinkle lightly with salt. Spread the mayonnaise mixture evenly over each fillet (there may be a little left over).

Roast the salmon until just cooked through, 10 to 14 minutes. (To test for doneness, poke a paring knife all the way through the thickest part of one fillet and hold it there for 5 seconds. Then touch the flat side of the knife gently to your lower lip. If the knife feels warm, the fish is cooked through.) Using a spatula, lift the fillets off the baking sheet, leaving the skin behind, and transfer to plates.

Salmon, Mushroom & Dill Quiche

I like to serve this quiche with a crunchy cucumber salad, dressed with a little sour cream and dill; together they make a nice supper. Use poached, sautéed, or baked salmon; or you can cook raw salmon fillet by microwaving it on high for 6 to 8 minutes (or until just cooked through).

• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1/2 lb. small cremini mushrooms, stems removed, caps thinly sliced
• 4 medium scallions (2 inches of green removed), thinly sliced
• 2 extra-large eggs
• 2 extra-large egg yolks
• 1-1/2 cups heavy cream
• 3/4 lb. (12 oz.) cooked salmon, flaked or broken apart into bite-size pieces (about 1-1/4 cups)
• 3 Tbs. finely minced fresh dill, plus 8 to 10 small whole dill sprigs for garnish
• 1/3 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 1 tsp. kosher salt
• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground pepper (preferably white)
• 1 partially baked tart shell in a 12-inch porcelain quiche pan or a 12-1/2-inch metal tart pan

In a 10-inch skillet, melt half of the butter over medium heat. Raise the heat to medium high. Add the sliced mushrooms and sauté, stirring frequently, until they’re nicely browned around the edges and somewhat softened. Add the rest of the butter and the scallions and cook until the scallions are soft. Set aside to cool.

In a bowl, whisk the eggs, yolks, and heavy cream until smooth and well blended. Add the mushroom-scallion mixture, the flaked salmon, the minced dill, and the Parmigiano. Season with the salt and pepper.

Heat the oven to 350°F. If using a tart pan with a removable bottom, put it on a baking sheet. Pour the salmon and mushroom mixture into the prepared shell, making sure that the filling is evenly distributed, and bake until the custard is set and the tip of a knife comes out clean and the top is golden brown, 40 to 45 minutes. Let cool for 15 to 20 minutes before serving. Garnish each serving with a sprig of fresh dill.

Sear-Roasted Salmon Fillets with Lemon-Ginger Butter

Warming the lemon juice makes it easier to mix it into the softened butter. Wrapped well, the compound butter keeps for weeks in the freezer.

• 6 Tbs. butter, well softened at room temperature
• 2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice, warmed slightly
• 2 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
• 2 Tbs. snipped fresh chives
• Olive oil for the pan
• 4 salmon fillets (5 oz. each), skinned if you like, patted dry
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a bowl, blend the butter, lemon juice, ginger, and chives well. Set aside at room temperature.

Heat the oven to 500°F. Set a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat and add just enough oil to make a light film. Sprinkle the salmon lightly with salt and pepper. When the oil is very hot, add the salmon, skin side up, and cook until nicely browned, about 1 minute. Flip the fish over and put the skillet in the oven. Roast for 2 minutes for medium rare; 4 minutes for medium well. Check for doneness with the tip of a knife. Remove the pan from the oven, transfer the fish to serving plates, and immediately top the salmon with a dab of the lemon-ginger butter.

Smoked Salmon and Dill Quiche

Like a cream-cheese-and-lox bagel in quiche form, this is the ultimate brunch centerpiece.

For the crust

• 4-1/2 oz. (1 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 2 tsp. granulated sugar
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
• 4-1/2 oz. (9 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut into 9 pieces
• 1 large egg yolk
• 2 Tbs. cold whole or 2% milk

For the filling

• 8 large egg yolks
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1 cup whole milk
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh dill
• 1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 oz. cream cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
• 3/4 cup diced smoked salmon (about 4 oz.)
• 1/4 cup diced red onion

Make and blind bake the crust

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, sugar, and salt. Add the butter and mix on low speed until the flour is no longer bright white, the dough holds together when you press a clump with your fingers, and there are still flakes of butter the size of pecan halves throughout, about 1 minute. (Alternatively, use a pastry cutter or your fingers to work the butter into the dry ingredients until there are pea-size pieces of butter throughout.)

In a small bowl, whisk the yolk and milk, then add it all at once to the flour mixture. Mix on low speed (or with a fork) until the dough barely comes together, 15 to 30 seconds in the mixer, longer by hand. The dough will look shaggy at this point.

Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface and gather it into a mound. Starting at the top of the mound and using the heel of your hand, smear a section of the dough away from you, sliding it down the side and along the work surface until most of the butter pieces are smeared into the dough. Repeat with the remaining dough in sections.

With a bench knife, gather the dough together, flatten it into a disk about 1 inch thick, and wrap it in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

On a well-floured work surface, using a floured rolling pin, roll out the dough into a 12-inch-wide, 1/8-inch-thick circle. Roll the dough around the rolling pin and unroll it over a 9- to 10-inch quiche dish, or a 9- to 9-1/2-inch pie plate. Without stretching it, press the dough gently into the bottom and sides of the dish. Use scissors or a paring knife to trim the dough, leaving a 3/4-inch overhang.

If using a quiche dish, fold the overhang into the dish and press the sides up to create an edge that’s about 1/4 inch above the rim of the dish. If using a pie plate, fold the overhang under itself and flatten it slightly to completely cover the rim of the pie plate. Crimp decoratively.

Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to allow the dough to relax before baking.

Position a rack in the center of the oven, put a large rimmed baking sheet on it, and heat the oven to 350°F.

Crumple a 12-inch square of parchment, flatten it, then line the crust with it. Fill the crust to the top with dried beans, gently pressing them against the sides. Bake on the hot baking sheet until the edge is a deep golden-brown and the bottom no longer looks raw (carefully pull back the parchment to check; if using a glass pie plate, you can see if the underside is golden), 40 to 45 minutes; protect the edge with a pie shield or ring of foil if it’s getting too dark. Remove the parchment and beans (and pie shield if necessary) and cool on a rack to room temperature, about 30 minutes.

Make the filling and bake the quiche

In a medium bowl or large liquid measure, whisk together the yolks, cream, milk, dill, nutmeg, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Put the blind-baked crust on the rimmed baking sheet and scatter the cream cheese, salmon, and onion over the bottom, being sure they are evenly distributed. Whisk the custard and slowly pour it into the crust, taking care not to shuffle the add-ins around too much.

Cover the edge of the crust with a pie shield or a ring of foil to keep it from browning too much. Carefully transfer the quiche on the baking sheet to the oven and bake at 325°F until the custard feels set to the touch in the center, 45 to 55 minutes. It should be golden-brown and slightly puffed and should not slosh when you jiggle it.

Let cool on a rack for at least 45 minutes, then slice and serve warm or at room temperature. Or, for the best-looking slices, cool the quiche completely, then refrigerate, slice when cold, and reheat.

Spice-Cured Salmon with Beets & Horseradish Cream

Cured salmon (gravad lax) is quintessentially Scandinavian. I have a recipe for every season, but this is our Christmas favorite thanks to the festive warm spices and orange zest. I love the combination of tangy raw beets and spicy horseradish cream with the silky, citrusy salmon. It makes an elegant first course and a deliciously cool counterpoint to hot White Wine & Elderflower Gløgg. To save time, you can substitute cream-style prepared horseradish for the fresh horseradish cream, though the flavor won’t be the same.

For the salmon

• 2 Tbs. black peppercorns
• 2 Tbs. coriander seeds
• 20 whole cloves
• 20 green cardamom pods
• 9 oz. kosher salt (about 1-3/4 cups Diamond Crystal or 1 cup Morton’s)
• 1-1/2 cups granulated sugar
• 2 Tbs. finely grated orange zest (from 2 oranges)
• 1 4-lb. skin-on salmon fillet (preferably wild), belly flap trimmed and pin bones removed

For the beets and horseradish cream

• 3 medium red beets, peeled, halved, and very thinly sliced
• 1/4 cup cider vinegar
• 3/4 cup crème fraîche
• 3/4 cup finely grated fresh horseradish
• 1-1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For serving

• Rye crispbreads, such as Finn Crisp or Wasa
• Fresh dill sprigs
• Lemon wedges

Cure the salmon

With a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, finely grind the peppercorns, coriander, cloves, and cardamom pods. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in the salt, sugar, and orange zest.

Arrange several long pieces of plastic wrap on a large rimmed baking sheet. Put the salmon on the plastic skin side down, cover the flesh evenly with the salt mixture, and wrap tightly. Refrigerate for 4 days.

Make the beets and horseradish cream

In a medium bowl, toss the beets with 2 Tbs. of the vinegar; let stand for at least 30 minutes.

In a small bowl, whisk the crème fraîche, horseradish, sugar, and the remaining 2 Tbs. vinegar; season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate.

Serve

Unwrap the salmon and rinse under cold running water to remove the curing mixture. Pat dry with paper towels. Transfer to a cutting board and very thinly slice the salmon (Using a long, thin, sharp knife, slice the salmon as thinly as you can. Starting at the wider end if the filet, hold the knife at a 45-degree angle and try for slices so thin that you can see the knife through the salmon). Slice only as much as you need. Garnish with the dill sprigs and serve with the beets, horseradish cream, crispbreads, and lemon wedges.

Poached Arctic Char with Brown Butter and Shiitake

Nutty brown butter and tart fresh lemon complement arctic char’s rich flavor, and the accompanying shiitake and sugar snap peas add texture and earthy sweetness. If you can’t find arctic char, use wild-caught Pacific salmon instead.

• 4 5- to 6-oz. skinless arctic char fillets (about 3/4 inch thick)
• Kosher salt
• 6 oz. (3/4 cup) plus 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 8 thin lemon slices plus 1 Tbs. juice (from 1 medium lemon)
• 4 quart-size Ziploc storage or freezer bags
• 8 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and quartered (4 cups)
• 4 oz. sugar snap peas, strings removed and thinly sliced on the diagonal (1-3/4 cup)
• 1/2 tsp. toasted sesame seeds
• 1/8 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

Pat the fish dry and season on both sides with 1 tsp. salt total. Transfer to a plate, cover with plastic wrap, and chill for 1 to 2 hours.

Have ready a small, fine strainer set over a small heatproof bowl. In a 1- to 2-quart saucepan, melt the 3/4 cup butter with 4 of the lemon slices over medium heat, swirling frequently, until the milk solids turn golden-brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Immediately strain the butter, pressing on and then discarding the lemon slices. Let cool to room temperature.

Divide the butter and the remaining 4 lemon slices among the 4 bags. Put 1 piece of fish in each bag. Seal the bags, pressing out as much air as possible, and gently massage the fish to coat it all over.

Fill a 4-quart pot with 3 inches of water and clip a deep-fat, probe, or instant-read thermometer to the side of the pot. Heat the water slowly over low heat to 140°F, about 15 minutes. Put the bags of fish in the water (the tops of the bags can stick out) and cook, maintaining a water temperature of 135°F to 145°F, until the center of the fish registers 130°F to 135°F on an instant-read thermometer (open the bags to check), 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer the bags to a rimmed baking sheet and let sit for 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt the remaining 2 Tbs. butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat until foamy, then add the mushrooms and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring often, until the mushrooms are light golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the peas and 2 Tbs. of water and cook, stirring often, until the peas are bright green and crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Add 1/4 tsp. of the sesame seeds and the red pepper flakes, then season to taste with salt.

Using scissors, snip off one corner of each bag and drain the butter into a small bowl. Stir the lemon juice into the butter and set aside. Divide the mushrooms and sugar snap peas among 4 dinner plates. Open each bag and cut down the center perpendicular to the seal. Using a spatula, lift the fillets from the bags and arrange on top of the vegetables. Pour the reserved lemon-butter mixture over the fish, garnish with the lemon slices and the remaining 1/4 tsp. sesame seeds, and serve.

Miso-Glazed Salmon with Green Tea Rice

In Japanese cuisine, green-tea rice, known as ochazuke, is a beloved comfort food. It can be as simple as green tea poured over steamed rice, but it’s often embellished with flaked fish or other toppings to make it more substantial. This version borrows from another Japanese classic: fish glazed with a miso-mirin mixture and quickly broiled. Be sure to use loose-leaf green tea; it’s typically higher quality than the bagged kind.

• 1 1/3 cups white rice, such as jasmine or short-grain sushi
• 1/4 cup white miso
• 2 Tbs. mirin
• 1/2 tsp. unseasoned rice vinegar
• 4 5-oz. skin-on salmon fillets, preferably about 3/4 inch thick
• 1/2 cup loose-leaf green tea
• Kosher salt
• 3 medium scallions, thinly sliced (about 1/2 cup)
• 1 Tbs. toasted sesame seeds; more for garnish

Cook the rice according to the package directions and keep warm.

Position a rack 4 inches from the broiler and heat the broiler on high.

In a small bowl, stir the miso, mirin, and rice vinegar with a fork to blend. Put the salmon fillets skin side down on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet, leaving space between them. Pat the salmon dry and broil for 2 minutes. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and, with a spoon, carefully spread the miso mixture over the top of the fillets. Broil until the salmon is just barely opaque in the center (use a paring knife to check), 2 to 3 minutes more.

Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, bring 2-1/4 cups of water to a simmer. Put the tea leaves and 3/4 tsp. salt in a 4-cup heatproof liquid measuring cup. Pour the hot water over the leaves and let steep for 1 minute.

Gently mix the scallions and sesame seeds into the rice and divide among four large shallow bowls, mounding it in the center. Pour the tea through a strainer around each mound. With a spatula, lift the salmon from the baking sheet, leaving the skin behind, and place on top of the rice. Sprinkle with more sesame seeds and serve immediately.

Shrimp in Chile-Lemongrass Sauce

This Malaysian stir-fry gets its flavor from a rempah, or spice paste. Usually the rempah would include a few hard-to-find ingredients, but I've made some substitutions so you'll be able to get everything in a well-stocked supermarket. If you have access to authentic Malaysian ingredients, you can make the substitutions in the tip below.

For the spice paste:

• 1 large dried New Mexico or California red chile
• 2 dried chiles de árbol or cayenne chiles
• 2 stalks fresh lemongrass
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh ginger
• 2 tsp. slivered almonds
• 4 large shallots, coarsely chopped
• 4 to 5 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
• 1 tsp. fish sauce
• 2 fresh red Fresno chiles or red jalapeños, seeded and sliced

Tip:

For a more authentic rempah, substitute chopped galangal for the ginger, 1/2 tsp. dried shrimp sauce (blachan) for the fish sauce, and two candlenuts, soaked for 10 minutes in lukewarm water, for the almonds.

For the shrimp:

• 1/3 cup corn oil or vegetable oil
• 1 pound large shrimp (26-30 per pound), shelled, deveined, rinsed, and patted dry
• 1 medium onion, halved through the stem and cut lengthwise into 1/2-inch slices
• 2 small tomatoes, cored and cut through the stem end into 8 wedges
• 2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1 tsp. kosher salt
• 2 Tbs. fresh lime juice

Make the rempah:

Cut all the dried chiles into 4 or 5 pieces each with scissors; shake out the seeds. Put the chiles in a small saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat, simmering until the chiles are soft and flexible, about 3 minutes. Drain the chiles, reserving the water. Put the chiles in a blender.

Trim off the root and top section of the lemongrass, leaving a 5- to 6-inch section of bottom stem. Remove the fibrous outer layers until you reach the tender white core. Smash this core with the side of a knife to flatten it slightly. Cut it in half lengthwise and then slice crosswise into thin pieces.

Add the lemongrass, ginger, almonds, shallots, garlic, fish sauce, fresh chiles, and 3 tablespoons of the reserved chile water to the blender. Blend to a smooth purée, adding a few more tablespoons of the chile water, or up to 1/2 cup total if needed, to facilitate blending.

Cook the shrimp in the rempah:

Heat a nonstick wok or stir-fry pan or a large sauté pan over medium heat for 2 minutes. Add the oil and swirl to coat the pan. Scrape the rempah into the pan and fry gently, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon until the oil and rempah are blended and emulsified, about 1 minute. Continue frying, stirring occasionally, until the mixture darkens and thickens to a porridge consistency, 3 to 5 minutes. (If you added extra water to the blender, it may take longer to thicken.) The rempah should separate, with reddish beads of oil on the surface.

Increase the heat to medium-high and add the shrimp and onions. Fry them, tossing and flipping frequently, until the shrimp feel firm to the touch and the onions are crisp-tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the tomato, sugar, salt, and lime juice, stirring and cooking just long enough to mix and to heat the tomato wedges without breaking them apart.

Garlicky Shrimp and Tomatoes

The combination of flavors in this robust dish is reminiscent of cioppino, San Francisco’s popular seafood stew. It’s not a mistake that raw garlic gets stirred into the sauce at the end of cooking—it provides a jolt of fresh flavor.

• 30 jumbo shrimp (21 to 25 per lb.), peeled, deveined, and patted dry
  
  
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 5 Tbs. olive oil; more as needed
• 3 large cloves garlic, pressed or minced
• 1-1/2 tsp. fennel seeds, coarsely crushed
• 1-1/2 cups canned crushed tomatoes with purée (from a 15-oz. can)
• 6 oz. (3/4 cup) bottled clam juice
• 3/4 cup dry white vermouth
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Season the shrimp with 1/4 tsp. each salt and pepper. Heat 3 Tbs. of the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring, until partially cooked, 3 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to a large bowl.

Add the remaining 2 Tbs. oil to the skillet. Add about two-thirds of the garlic and all of the fennel seeds and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the tomatoes, clam juice, and vermouth. Bring to a boil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is reduced to about 2/3 cup, about 12 minutes.

Turn the heat down to medium and stir in the remaining garlic and the parsley. Add the shrimp and accumulated juice and cook, stirring occasionally, until the shrimp are cooked through, about 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Shrimp Skewers

• 36 shrimp (21 to 25 per lb.; about 1-1/2 lb. total), peeled (tail segment left on) and deveined
• Twelve 8-inch bamboo skewers, soaked in water
• 1 recipe Pimentón Vinaigrette 

Thread three shrimp onto each skewer. Lay the skewers in a large Pyrex baking dish (or other large nonreactive container) and pour the pimentón vinaigrette over the skewers, turning them to coat completely. Marinate for at least 30 minutes in the refrigerator.

Heat a gas grill to medium high or prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire. Grill the skewers (covered on a gas grill, uncovered on a charcoal grill), flipping once, until the shrimp are just cooked through, about 4 minutes total.

Shrimp in Spicy Thai Coconut Sauce

This succulent shrimp stir-fry is quick to make and big on flavor. Serve with rice or noodles to soak up the spicy coconut sauce.

• 2 Tbs. canola oil
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh ginger
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh galangal root or powder
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped lemongrass (use the tender interior only)
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped seeded Thai bird chiles or serranos
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
• 2 lb. jumbo (21 to 25 per lb.) or extra-large (26 to 30 per lb.) shrimp, peeled and deveined
• 3/4 cup well-shaken unsweetened coconut milk
• 1/4 cup fresh lime juice
• 1 Tbs. fish sauce
• 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro

Tip:

Galangal is a cousin of ginger, prized in Thai cuisine for its spicy heat and citrus-like flavor. It’s available in many Asian grocery stores, but if you can’t find it, you can omit it and double the amount of chopped fresh ginger.

Heat the oil in a 12- to 14-inch wok or 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering hot.  Add the ginger, galangal, lemongrass, chile, and garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring, until opaque on the outside and partially cooked, about 2 minutes. Stir in the coconut milk, lime juice, and fish sauce and cook, stirring, until the shrimp are just opaque in the center, about 1 minute more.

Spoon the shrimp onto 6 dinner plates, and top with any sauce remaining in the wok. Garnish with cilantro and serve.

Simple Seafood Stew

It’s hard to decide which is better, the mix of fresh, sweet seafood or the briny, buttery broth in the bottom of the bowl. Fortunately, each aromatic bowlful of stew contains plenty of both. Serving some crusty bread with this dish for mopping up the broth is simply nonnegotiable.

• 12 jumbo shrimp (21 to 25 per lb.), peeled (reserve the shells) and deveined
• 1 clove garlic, smashed and peeled, plus 1 Tbs. finely chopped
• 4 large sprigs fresh parsley, plus 1/4 cup chopped
• 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter, more to taste
• 1 Tbs. olive oil
• 1/4 cup finely chopped shallot
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 2 dozen small littleneck clams, scrubbed
• 1 lb. mussels, scrubbed and debearded
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 large ripe tomato, seeded and diced
• 8 large sea scallops, side muscle removed, halved horizontally

In a 5- to 6-quart pot, toast the shrimp shells and the garlic clove over medium-high heat, stirring, until the shells turn pink, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the parsley sprigs and 2 cups water, bring to a boil, then boil for 3 minutes. Strain the broth into a bowl and reserve.

Heat the butter and olive oil in the cleaned pot over medium heat until the butter is melted. Add the chopped garlic and the shallot and cook, stirring, until the garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the wine and the reserved shrimp broth and bring to a boil over high heat.

Add the clams and mussels and cook, covered, until the mussels start to open, about 4 minutes. As they open, transfer them with a slotted spoon to a large, wide serving bowl or 4 large individual bowls. Continue to cook the clams, stirring occasionally, until they start to open, about 2 minutes more. Transfer them to the serving bowl. (Discard any clams or mussels that don’t open after 8 minutes.) Sprinkle with half of the chopped parsley.

Reduce the heat to medium and season the broth with salt and pepper to taste. Add the tomato, scallops, and shrimp to the broth, cover, and cook until the shrimp turn pink and the scallops are opaque, about 2 minutes. Transfer the shrimp, scallops, and broth to the bowl and sprinkle with the remaining chopped parsley.