Shrimp in Chile-Lemongrass Sauce

This Malaysian stir-fry gets its flavor from a rempah, or spice paste. Usually the rempah would include a few hard-to-find ingredients, but I've made some substitutions so you'll be able to get everything in a well-stocked supermarket. If you have access to authentic Malaysian ingredients, you can make the substitutions in the tip below.

For the spice paste:

• 1 large dried New Mexico or California red chile
• 2 dried chiles de árbol or cayenne chiles
• 2 stalks fresh lemongrass
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh ginger
• 2 tsp. slivered almonds
• 4 large shallots, coarsely chopped
• 4 to 5 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
• 1 tsp. fish sauce
• 2 fresh red Fresno chiles or red jalapeños, seeded and sliced

Tip:

For a more authentic rempah, substitute chopped galangal for the ginger, 1/2 tsp. dried shrimp sauce (blachan) for the fish sauce, and two candlenuts, soaked for 10 minutes in lukewarm water, for the almonds.

For the shrimp:

• 1/3 cup corn oil or vegetable oil
• 1 pound large shrimp (26-30 per pound), shelled, deveined, rinsed, and patted dry
• 1 medium onion, halved through the stem and cut lengthwise into 1/2-inch slices
• 2 small tomatoes, cored and cut through the stem end into 8 wedges
• 2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1 tsp. kosher salt
• 2 Tbs. fresh lime juice

Make the rempah:

Cut all the dried chiles into 4 or 5 pieces each with scissors; shake out the seeds. Put the chiles in a small saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat, simmering until the chiles are soft and flexible, about 3 minutes. Drain the chiles, reserving the water. Put the chiles in a blender.

Trim off the root and top section of the lemongrass, leaving a 5- to 6-inch section of bottom stem. Remove the fibrous outer layers until you reach the tender white core. Smash this core with the side of a knife to flatten it slightly. Cut it in half lengthwise and then slice crosswise into thin pieces.

Add the lemongrass, ginger, almonds, shallots, garlic, fish sauce, fresh chiles, and 3 tablespoons of the reserved chile water to the blender. Blend to a smooth purée, adding a few more tablespoons of the chile water, or up to 1/2 cup total if needed, to facilitate blending.

Cook the shrimp in the rempah:

Heat a nonstick wok or stir-fry pan or a large sauté pan over medium heat for 2 minutes. Add the oil and swirl to coat the pan. Scrape the rempah into the pan and fry gently, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon until the oil and rempah are blended and emulsified, about 1 minute. Continue frying, stirring occasionally, until the mixture darkens and thickens to a porridge consistency, 3 to 5 minutes. (If you added extra water to the blender, it may take longer to thicken.) The rempah should separate, with reddish beads of oil on the surface.

Increase the heat to medium-high and add the shrimp and onions. Fry them, tossing and flipping frequently, until the shrimp feel firm to the touch and the onions are crisp-tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the tomato, sugar, salt, and lime juice, stirring and cooking just long enough to mix and to heat the tomato wedges without breaking them apart.

Shrimp in Chile-Lemongrass Sauce

This Malaysian stir-fry gets its flavor from a rempah, or spice paste. Usually the rempah would include a few hard-to-find ingredients, but I've made some substitutions so you'll be able to get everything in a well-stocked supermarket. If you have access to authentic Malaysian ingredients, you can make the substitutions in the tip below.

For the spice paste:

• 1 large dried New Mexico or California red chile
• 2 dried chiles de árbol or cayenne chiles
• 2 stalks fresh lemongrass
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh ginger
• 2 tsp. slivered almonds
• 4 large shallots, coarsely chopped
• 4 to 5 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
• 1 tsp. fish sauce
• 2 fresh red Fresno chiles or red jalapeños, seeded and sliced

Tip:

For a more authentic rempah, substitute chopped galangal for the ginger, 1/2 tsp. dried shrimp sauce (blachan) for the fish sauce, and two candlenuts, soaked for 10 minutes in lukewarm water, for the almonds.

For the shrimp:

• 1/3 cup corn oil or vegetable oil
• 1 pound large shrimp (26-30 per pound), shelled, deveined, rinsed, and patted dry
• 1 medium onion, halved through the stem and cut lengthwise into 1/2-inch slices
• 2 small tomatoes, cored and cut through the stem end into 8 wedges
• 2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1 tsp. kosher salt
• 2 Tbs. fresh lime juice

Make the rempah:

Cut all the dried chiles into 4 or 5 pieces each with scissors; shake out the seeds. Put the chiles in a small saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat, simmering until the chiles are soft and flexible, about 3 minutes. Drain the chiles, reserving the water. Put the chiles in a blender.

Trim off the root and top section of the lemongrass, leaving a 5- to 6-inch section of bottom stem. Remove the fibrous outer layers until you reach the tender white core. Smash this core with the side of a knife to flatten it slightly. Cut it in half lengthwise and then slice crosswise into thin pieces.

Add the lemongrass, ginger, almonds, shallots, garlic, fish sauce, fresh chiles, and 3 tablespoons of the reserved chile water to the blender. Blend to a smooth purée, adding a few more tablespoons of the chile water, or up to 1/2 cup total if needed, to facilitate blending.

Cook the shrimp in the rempah:

Heat a nonstick wok or stir-fry pan or a large sauté pan over medium heat for 2 minutes. Add the oil and swirl to coat the pan. Scrape the rempah into the pan and fry gently, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon until the oil and rempah are blended and emulsified, about 1 minute. Continue frying, stirring occasionally, until the mixture darkens and thickens to a porridge consistency, 3 to 5 minutes. (If you added extra water to the blender, it may take longer to thicken.) The rempah should separate, with reddish beads of oil on the surface.

Increase the heat to medium-high and add the shrimp and onions. Fry them, tossing and flipping frequently, until the shrimp feel firm to the touch and the onions are crisp-tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the tomato, sugar, salt, and lime juice, stirring and cooking just long enough to mix and to heat the tomato wedges without breaking them apart.

Whole Roasted Snapper with Tamarind

For this Indonesian-inspired dish, I like a firm-textured fish such as red snapper, striped bass, or grouper. Although the fish is traditionally deep-fried, I simplify and lighten things a bit by roasting it instead. If you don’t have time to marinate the fish overnight, simply bake the fish in its marinade for full effect and serve the pan juices as the sauce.

• 6 oz. compressed tamarind pulp (a 3/4-inch-thick piece about 2x4 inches)
• 2 cups hot water
• 8 large cloves garlic, crushed and finely minced (about 2 Tbs.)
• 3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh ginger
• 2 Tbs. chopped shallots
• 2 dried hot chiles (or more to taste), coarsely chopped with seeds
• 2 Tbs. palm sugar (available canned in Asian markets) or brown sugar
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1 whole snapper (about 2 lb.), boned and well cleaned, scales and gills removed
• 3 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced, or a 28-oz. can of whole tomatoes, juice and seeds squeezed out, flesh coarsely chopped
• A few sprigs of fresh cilantro

Soak the tamarind in the hot water until soft, about 15 minutes. Put the tamarind pulp in a fine sieve set over the bowl of soaking liquid and press hard to extract as much of the pulp as possible. Stir in the garlic, ginger, shallots, chiles, and sugar and set aside.

Lightly salt the fish inside and out. Make 4 diagonal cuts about 1/2-inch deep on both sides of the fish. Put the fish in a large dish, pour the marinade over it, cover, and refrigerate. Marinate overnight (or 30 minutes, if you’re going to bake the fish in the sauce), turning the fish occasionally to ensure even marinating.

Heat the oven to 375°F. If you’ve marinated the fish overnight, transfer it to a baking dish and reserve the marinade. Scatter the tomatoes over and around the fish and bake for about 40 minutes, or until the flesh feels firm and looks opaque with no signs of pink. (If you have only let the fish marinate for 30 minutes, put the fish, marinade, and tomatoes into the baking dish. Bake until done, about 45 minutes.)

While the fish is baking, put the reserved marinade in a heavy, medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Remove from the heat and keep warm. When the fish is cooked, drain off any juices that have collected in the baking dish and add them to the sauce. Transfer the cooked fish to a heated serving platter and coat the fish with the sauce. Garnish with the cilantro.

Chocolate Pavlova with Tangerine Whipped Cream

When you need a dessert with knockout crowd appeal, a pavlova—basically a big meringue—delivers. Though meringues can be finicky, such tricks as the addition of vinegar and a slow bake guarantee a good result. This meringue is crisp outside, with a chewy, brownie-like interior.

• 4 large egg whites, at room temperature
• 1/8 tsp. cream of tartar
• 1/8 tsp. table salt
• 1 cup plus 2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1-1/2 tsp. cornstarch
• 1 Tbs. red-wine vinegar
• 3/4 oz. (1/4 cup) unsweetened Dutch processed cocoa powder, sifted
• 1 cup heavy cream
• Finely grated zest of 1 tangerine (about 1-1/4 tsp.)
• 1-1/2 cups fresh fruit, such as raspberries, sliced strawberries, peeled and sliced mango, or a mix
• 3 kiwi, peeled and sliced into half moons

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Cut a piece of parchment so that it fits flat on a baking sheet. With a pencil, draw a 9-inch circle in the center of the parchment (tracing a 9-inch cake pan works fine). Line the baking sheet with the parchment, pencil side facing down (you should still be able to see the circle).

Make the meringue:

With an electric hand mixer or stand mixer (use the whisk attachment), whip the egg whites, cream of tartar, and salt in a large dry bowl on medium speed until foamy, about 30 seconds. Gradually add 1 cup of the sugar and then the cornstarch and vinegar; whip on medium high until the whites hold stiff peaks and look glossy, another 3 to 5 minutes. Add the sifted cocoa powder and mix on low speed until mostly combined, 20 to 30 seconds, scraping the bowl as needed. Finish mixing the cocoa into the meringue by hand with a rubber spatula until well combined and no streaks of white remain.

Shape and bake:

Pile the meringue inside the circle on the parchment. Using the spatula, spread the meringue to even it out slightly— it doesn’t need to align perfectly with the circle, and it shouldn’t be perfectly smooth or overworked . The natural swirls and ridges give the finished meringue character.

Bake for 10 minutes and then reduce the heat to 300°F and bake until the meringue has puffed and cracked around its edges, another 45 to 50 minutes. Turn off the oven, prop the oven door open, and leave the meringue in the oven to cool to room temperature, at least 30 minutes. The delicate meringue won’t collapse as much if it cools gradually.

Assemble and serve:

Just before serving, put the meringue on a serving platter. In a chilled medium stainless-steel bowl, beat the cream with the remaining 2 Tbs. sugar until it holds soft peaks. Whip in the tangerine zest, making sure it’s evenly distributed. Pile the whipped cream on the meringue, spreading it almost out to the edge, and then top with fruit. To serve slice into wedges with a serrated knife.

Chocolate Pavlova with Tangerine Whipped Cream

When you need a dessert with knockout crowd appeal, a pavlova—basically a big meringue—delivers. Though meringues can be finicky, such tricks as the addition of vinegar and a slow bake guarantee a good result. This meringue is crisp outside, with a chewy, brownie-like interior.

• 4 large egg whites, at room temperature
• 1/8 tsp. cream of tartar
• 1/8 tsp. table salt
• 1 cup plus 2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1-1/2 tsp. cornstarch
• 1 Tbs. red-wine vinegar
• 3/4 oz. (1/4 cup) unsweetened Dutch processed cocoa powder, sifted
• 1 cup heavy cream
• Finely grated zest of 1 tangerine (about 1-1/4 tsp.)
• 1-1/2 cups fresh fruit, such as raspberries, sliced strawberries, peeled and sliced mango, or a mix
• 3 kiwi, peeled and sliced into half moons

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Cut a piece of parchment so that it fits flat on a baking sheet. With a pencil, draw a 9-inch circle in the center of the parchment (tracing a 9-inch cake pan works fine). Line the baking sheet with the parchment, pencil side facing down (you should still be able to see the circle).

Make the meringue:

With an electric hand mixer or stand mixer (use the whisk attachment), whip the egg whites, cream of tartar, and salt in a large dry bowl on medium speed until foamy, about 30 seconds. Gradually add 1 cup of the sugar and then the cornstarch and vinegar; whip on medium high until the whites hold stiff peaks and look glossy, another 3 to 5 minutes. Add the sifted cocoa powder and mix on low speed until mostly combined, 20 to 30 seconds, scraping the bowl as needed. Finish mixing the cocoa into the meringue by hand with a rubber spatula until well combined and no streaks of white remain.

Shape and bake:

Pile the meringue inside the circle on the parchment. Using the spatula, spread the meringue to even it out slightly— it doesn’t need to align perfectly with the circle, and it shouldn’t be perfectly smooth or overworked . The natural swirls and ridges give the finished meringue character.

Bake for 10 minutes and then reduce the heat to 300°F and bake until the meringue has puffed and cracked around its edges, another 45 to 50 minutes. Turn off the oven, prop the oven door open, and leave the meringue in the oven to cool to room temperature, at least 30 minutes. The delicate meringue won’t collapse as much if it cools gradually.

Assemble and serve:

Just before serving, put the meringue on a serving platter. In a chilled medium stainless-steel bowl, beat the cream with the remaining 2 Tbs. sugar until it holds soft peaks. Whip in the tangerine zest, making sure it’s evenly distributed. Pile the whipped cream on the meringue, spreading it almost out to the edge, and then top with fruit. To serve slice into wedges with a serrated knife.

Whole Roasted Snapper with Tamarind

For this Indonesian-inspired dish, I like a firm-textured fish such as red snapper, striped bass, or grouper. Although the fish is traditionally deep-fried, I simplify and lighten things a bit by roasting it instead. If you don’t have time to marinate the fish overnight, simply bake the fish in its marinade for full effect and serve the pan juices as the sauce.

• 6 oz. compressed tamarind pulp (a 3/4-inch-thick piece about 2x4 inches)
• 2 cups hot water
• 8 large cloves garlic, crushed and finely minced (about 2 Tbs.)
• 3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh ginger
• 2 Tbs. chopped shallots
• 2 dried hot chiles (or more to taste), coarsely chopped with seeds
• 2 Tbs. palm sugar (available canned in Asian markets) or brown sugar
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1 whole snapper (about 2 lb.), boned and well cleaned, scales and gills removed
• 3 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced, or a 28-oz. can of whole tomatoes, juice and seeds squeezed out, flesh coarsely chopped
• A few sprigs of fresh cilantro

Soak the tamarind in the hot water until soft, about 15 minutes. Put the tamarind pulp in a fine sieve set over the bowl of soaking liquid and press hard to extract as much of the pulp as possible. Stir in the garlic, ginger, shallots, chiles, and sugar and set aside.

Lightly salt the fish inside and out. Make 4 diagonal cuts about 1/2-inch deep on both sides of the fish. Put the fish in a large dish, pour the marinade over it, cover, and refrigerate. Marinate overnight (or 30 minutes, if you’re going to bake the fish in the sauce), turning the fish occasionally to ensure even marinating.

Heat the oven to 375°F. If you’ve marinated the fish overnight, transfer it to a baking dish and reserve the marinade. Scatter the tomatoes over and around the fish and bake for about 40 minutes, or until the flesh feels firm and looks opaque with no signs of pink. (If you have only let the fish marinate for 30 minutes, put the fish, marinade, and tomatoes into the baking dish. Bake until done, about 45 minutes.)

While the fish is baking, put the reserved marinade in a heavy, medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Remove from the heat and keep warm. When the fish is cooked, drain off any juices that have collected in the baking dish and add them to the sauce. Transfer the cooked fish to a heated serving platter and coat the fish with the sauce. Garnish with the cilantro.

Southeast Asian Chicken Wings

Let’s get one thing straight: Buffalo does not have a monopoly on wings. In Thailand, you’ll find them glazed with a sweet chili sauce; in Vietnam, they’re seasoned with lemongrass and fish sauce. Here, several ingredients, including coconut milk, fish sauce, lemongrass, and sweet chili sauce, recreate a bit of that Asian flavor. The look may be unusual, but using a skewer to stretch out your chicken
wings increases the amount of exposed skin that can crisp up during
cooking, as well as absorb the marinade and smoky flavors from the
grill. What’s more, wings on a stick are fun to eat.

• 3-1/2 lb. large whole chicken wings (12 to 16)
• 12 to 16 twelve-inch bamboo skewers, soaked in water for 30 minutes
• 1/2 cup unsweetened coconut milk
• 2 stalks fresh lemongrass, tender white core from the bottom third only, coarsely chopped (about 3 Tbs.)
• 2 medium cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
• 2 scallions, white parts coarsely chopped, green parts thinly sliced (3 to 4 Tbs.)
• 2 Thai bird chiles or 1 jalapeño, thinly sliced (including seeds)
• 1/4 cup packed fresh cilantro
• 3 Tbs. fish sauce
• 1 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh ginger
• 1 Tbs. fresh lime juice
• 1 Tbs. granulated sugar
• Vegetable oil for the grill
• 1/2 cup Thai sweet chili sauce (such as Mae Ploy)

Pat the chicken wings dry with paper towels. Thread each wing on a bamboo skewer, starting at the meaty end and ending at the wingtip so that the wing is stretched out as much as possible without ripping the skin. Arrange the wings in a large, shallow dish.

In a blender, purée the coconut milk, lemongrass, garlic, scallion whites, chiles, cilantro, fish sauce, ginger, lime juice, and sugar until smooth. Pour the marinade over the wings, turning to coat evenly. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours.

Prepare a gas or charcoal grill fire for direct grilling over medium heat (350°F). When ready to cook, clean the grate with a wire brush and, using tongs, wipe the grate with a paper towel or cloth dipped in oil.

Shake off any excess marinade from the wings and wrap the ends of each skewer with a small piece of aluminum foil to protect them from burning. Grill the wings (covered if using a gas grill), flipping halfway through cooking, until golden-brown on the outside and an instant-read thermometer inserted in a thick part of a wing reads 165°F, 16 to 24 minutes total.

Brush the wings on both sides with the sweet chili sauce and grill until the glaze sizzles, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Transfer the wings to a platter, sprinkle with the scallion greens, and serve.

Southeast Asian Chicken Wings

Let’s get one thing straight: Buffalo does not have a monopoly on wings. In Thailand, you’ll find them glazed with a sweet chili sauce; in Vietnam, they’re seasoned with lemongrass and fish sauce. Here, several ingredients, including coconut milk, fish sauce, lemongrass, and sweet chili sauce, recreate a bit of that Asian flavor. The look may be unusual, but using a skewer to stretch out your chicken
wings increases the amount of exposed skin that can crisp up during
cooking, as well as absorb the marinade and smoky flavors from the
grill. What’s more, wings on a stick are fun to eat.

• 3-1/2 lb. large whole chicken wings (12 to 16)
• 12 to 16 twelve-inch bamboo skewers, soaked in water for 30 minutes
• 1/2 cup unsweetened coconut milk
• 2 stalks fresh lemongrass, tender white core from the bottom third only, coarsely chopped (about 3 Tbs.)
• 2 medium cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
• 2 scallions, white parts coarsely chopped, green parts thinly sliced (3 to 4 Tbs.)
• 2 Thai bird chiles or 1 jalapeño, thinly sliced (including seeds)
• 1/4 cup packed fresh cilantro
• 3 Tbs. fish sauce
• 1 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh ginger
• 1 Tbs. fresh lime juice
• 1 Tbs. granulated sugar
• Vegetable oil for the grill
• 1/2 cup Thai sweet chili sauce (such as Mae Ploy)

Pat the chicken wings dry with paper towels. Thread each wing on a bamboo skewer, starting at the meaty end and ending at the wingtip so that the wing is stretched out as much as possible without ripping the skin. Arrange the wings in a large, shallow dish.

In a blender, purée the coconut milk, lemongrass, garlic, scallion whites, chiles, cilantro, fish sauce, ginger, lime juice, and sugar until smooth. Pour the marinade over the wings, turning to coat evenly. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours.

Prepare a gas or charcoal grill fire for direct grilling over medium heat (350°F). When ready to cook, clean the grate with a wire brush and, using tongs, wipe the grate with a paper towel or cloth dipped in oil.

Shake off any excess marinade from the wings and wrap the ends of each skewer with a small piece of aluminum foil to protect them from burning. Grill the wings (covered if using a gas grill), flipping halfway through cooking, until golden-brown on the outside and an instant-read thermometer inserted in a thick part of a wing reads 165°F, 16 to 24 minutes total.

Brush the wings on both sides with the sweet chili sauce and grill until the glaze sizzles, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Transfer the wings to a platter, sprinkle with the scallion greens, and serve.