Cherry Custard Tart with Sliced Almonds

This tart has everything going for it: a silky custard, sweet cherries, and a crunchy almond topping. This tart dough is more like a cookie dough because the butter gets mixed with the sugar instead of being left in pieces. Blind baking the tart shell keeps the bottom crust from getting soggy. This recipe makes enough for two crusts; divide the dough and freeze half for future use (defrost it in the refrigerator overnight before rolling it out).

For the tart dough:

• 6 oz. (12 Tbs.) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 4-1/2 oz. (1 cup) confectioners’ sugar
• 1-3/4 oz. almonds, finely ground in a food processor to yield just under 1/2 cup
• 1 large egg, at room temperature
• 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
• 9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1/4 tsp. salt

For the cherry custard filling:

• 1 lb. fresh sweet cherries, rinsed and pitted
• 2/3 cup heavy or whipping cream
• 1/3 cup sugar
• 2 large eggs
• 1/3 cup sliced almonds, toasted

To make the dough:

Beat the butter and confectioners’ sugar in a heavy-duty mixer with the paddle attachment until mixed together. Add the ground almonds, egg, and vanilla, and then the flour and salt. Mix until just combined. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface, shape into two disks, and wrap both in plastic. Refrigerate one disk for at least 1 hour and up to 3 days; freeze the other for future use.

To assemble and bake:

Heat the oven to 400°F. Remove the dough from the refrigerator. On a lightly floured work surface, roll it into a round 1/8-inch thick. (If the dough crumbles, it’s too cold; gather it into a ball, knead a few turns, and roll again.)

Transfer the dough by rolling it onto the rolling pin and then unrolling it over a 9- or 9-1/2-inch fluted tart pan that’s 1 inch deep and has a removable bottom. Gently ease the dough into the bottom and up the sides of the pan. To remove excess dough, run the rolling pin over the top of the edges to cut it off. Put the pan on a baking sheet, line the dough with parchment, and fill it with pie weights, dried beans, or rice. Bake it in the middle of the oven until the sides are set, 10 to 15 minutes. Carefully remove the weights and parchment, return the shell to the oven, and bake until the bottom is set and the crust is light brown, another 7 minutes.

Unroll the dough over the tart pan...

...then press with the rolling pin to give the tart clean edges. Excess dough can be used to patch any holes, if needed.

Spread the cherries in the bottom of the tart crust in one layer (you can do this while the tart is still hot). Whisk together the cream, sugar, and eggs and carefully pour the mixture over the cherries until the custard comes just to the top of the pan; you may have an extra tablespoon or so of custard remaining. Sprinkle the almonds on top. Return the tart to the oven and bake until the top is brown and the cherries are bubbling, about 40 minutes. Let the tart cool until you can remove it from the pan.

A sweet, creamy custard surrounds whole sweet cherries. Pay attention as you pour so that you don't overfill the crust.

Crème Caramel

Topped with a soft layer of caramel, these individual custard desserts aren’t too sweet—a bit of sour cream in the custard provides a hint of tanginess that marries well with the dark caramel notes. They’re easier to unmold while cold, so invert them 30 minutes before serving and then let them come to room temperature.

• 1-1/3 cups granulated sugar
• 1-1/4 cups whole milk
• 1-1/4 cups heavy cream
• 1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, or 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 3 large egg yolks
• 2 large eggs
• 1/8 tsp. table salt
• 1/4 cup full-fat sour cream
• 1 Tbs. brandy, rum, or bourbon

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Bring a large kettle of water to a boil.

Have ready eight 6-oz. oven-safe ramekins and a heatproof 2-cup measuring cup. Put 1 cup of the sugar in a heavy-duty 3-quart saucepan and stir in 1/3 cup water. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring until the sugar is melted, and bring to a boil, about 2 minutes. Brush the side of the pan with a pastry brush dipped in water to wash away any sugar crystals and continue to cook, without stirring, until the edges of the syrup begin to color, 3 to 5 minutes more. Gently swirl the pan to encourage even caramelization, and cook until the syrup turns dark amber, 1 to 2 minutes more.

Immediately pour the caramel into the measuring cup, then quickly distribute the hot caramel among the ramekins, swirling each ramekin to coat the bottom. Set aside.

Combine the milk and heavy cream in a 3-quart heavy-duty saucepan. If using a vanilla bean, scrape the seeds from the bean into the pan and add the bean. Bring just to a simmer over medium-high heat, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, whole eggs, the remaining 1/3 cup sugar, and the salt until smooth. Whisk in the sour cream and brandy. Remove the vanilla bean (if used) from the cream mixture and gradually whisk the cream mixture into the egg mixture. If using vanilla extract, stir it in. Skim off any foam.

Stir the custard if using a vanilla bean and pour or ladle it into the ramekins. Set the ramekins in a large roasting pan. Carefully pour the hot water into the roasting pan so that it comes halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover loosely with aluminum foil. Bake just until the centers of the custards wobble slightly when jiggled, 35 to 40 minutes.

Carefully transfer the ramekins to a rack to cool to room temperature (silicone-tipped tongs work well for this), about 30 minutes. Chill completely in the refrigerator, at least 4 hours (cover when cold).

About 30 minutes before serving, unmold the custards by placing the bottom of a ramekin in a small bowl of very hot water for 30 seconds to soften the caramel. Run a small knife around the edge of the custard to loosen. Put a small serving plate over the ramekin and invert. Holding the plate and ramekin together, shake firmly up and down, if necessary, to release the custard. Remove the ramekin (some caramel will stay in the ramekin). Repeat with the rest of the ramekins and let the custards stand at room temperature until ready to serve.

Potato & Rutabaga Gratin with Blue Cheese

While rutabagas taste and behave a lot like turnips, they’re nuttier, less peppery, and creamier, which is why I prefer them in gratins. The easiest way to peel a rutabaga— especially a waxed one—is with a sharp paring knife. Use a very sharp knife or a mandoline to slice the rutabaga and potatoes.

• 3 cups heavy cream
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 hearty sprigs fresh thyme
• Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
• 3 Tbs. melted unsalted butter; more butter for the foil
• 1 medium rutabaga (about 1-1/2 lb.), peeled, quartered, and very thinly sliced
• 2 to 3 russet potatoes (about 1-1/2 lb.), peeled and very thinly sliced
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 oz. blue cheese, such as Maytag, Roquefort, or Bleu d’Auvergne, crumbled
• 3 Tbs. fresh breadcrumbs, toasted (see How to make fresh breadcrumbs for instructions)

Tip:

For the neatest servings, let the gratin sit for at least 10 min. before slicing.

Heat the oven to 375°F. Rinse a small saucepan in cold water (this will make the pan easier to clean later), add-the cream, garlic, bay leaf, thyme, and nutmeg. Bring to just below a simmer over medium heat, remove from the heat, cover, and set aside to infuse for about 30 min.

Brush a large gratin dish or 3-qt. flameproof casserole dish with a little of the melted butter. Arrange half of the rutabaga slices in the bottom of the dish, followed by half of the potato slices. Season with salt and pepper. Dot the surface with the blue cheese. Continue with another layer of rutabaga slices and a final layer of potatoes. Season the top with salt and pepper. Strain the seasoned cream over the top. In a small bowl, combine the breadcrumbs with the remaining melted butter and sprinkle over the top. Butter the dull side of a large sheet of foil and cover the gratin. Bake for 40 min., remove the foil, and continue to bake until the top is browned, the sides are bubbly, and the potatoes are tender when pierced, another 30 to 40 min. Let sit for 10 min. before serving.

Classic Creamed Spinach

With a subtle infusion of garlic and a bit of Parmigiano-Reggiano, this creamy side dish holds its own against the steakhouse competition.

• 2 lb. fresh spinach (mature crinkly leaves, not flat baby leaves), stems removed
• Kosher salt
• 1/2 cup whole milk
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 3 large cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Freshly grated nutmeg
• 1/2 oz. (1 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. all-purpose flour
• 1/3 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Wash the spinach thoroughly using 2 or 3 changes of water, but don’t dry the leaves. Set a 6- to 8-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat and add half of the wet spinach to it. Season with 1/4 tsp. salt, cover, and steam, tossing frequently, until wilted, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a colander in the sink and repeat with the remaining spinach.


Allow the spinach to cool in the colander for several minutes. Using a clean, folded dishtowel, press down on the spinach to remove as much water as possible. Let the spinach rest for a few more minutes and then press again to remove more water. Transfer the spinach to a cutting board, blot again with the towel, and chop very coarsely.


Put the milk, cream, and smashed garlic in a 1-quart saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat; then immediately remove from the heat and let sit for 10 minutes.


With a fork, remove most of the smashed garlic from the cream mixture, pressing the garlic against the side of the pan to squeeze out the cream. (It’s fine if small pieces of garlic remain.) Transfer the cream mixture to a liquid measuring cup and add 1/2 tsp. salt, a few grinds of pepper, and a big pinch of nutmeg.


Wipe out the saucepan. Melt the butter in the pan over medium-low heat. Add the flour and cook, whisking constantly, until pale and smooth, about 1 minute.


Whisk in the cream mixture in a slow, steady stream. Raise the heat to medium and simmer the sauce, whisking constantly, until it thickens and reduces slightly, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.


Return the chopped cooked spinach to the Dutch oven and set over medium heat. Add the sauce and stir to combine. Add the Parmigiano and mix well. Continue to stir constantly until the spinach is hot, 1 to 2 minutes. Season with more salt and pepper and serve immediately.

Homemade Crema (Mexican Sour Cream)

Crema is the Mexican version of French crème fraîche. Both are slightly soured and thickened cream, milder and less thick than American sour cream, with crema being the thinnest. The recipe for Lime Chicken with Poblano Sour Cream will have a more authentic touch if made with crema. You can buy crema in Mexican markets or even in some supermarkets, but it’s easy to make it yourself, and the result has a smoother flavor than that of the commercially prepared version.
Use crema as you would sour cream, dolloping or drizzling it on soups, tacos, potatoes, or anything else that needs a little tang. Start with pasteurized cream if you can find it—it makes a richer, thicker crema than ultrapasteurized cream does.

• 1 cup heavy cream (pasteurized or ultrapasteurized)
• 1 Tbs. buttermilk (with active cultures)

In a small saucepan, warm the cream over medium-low heat to about 95ºF, just enough to take off the chill. If it goes over 100ºF, let it cool before continuing.

Stir in the buttermilk and transfer to a clean glass jar. Set the lid loosely on top of the jar—don’t tighten—and let sit in a warm spot, such as near the stove or on top of the fridge, until the cream starts to thicken, 18 to 24 hours. Stir, tighten the lid, and refrigerate until the cream is thicker and thoroughly chilled, 12 to 24 hours more. Stir well before using. The crema should have a thick but pourable consistency.

Oranges in Cardamom Syrup with Honey Whipped Cream

With just five ingredients, this simple dessert comes together in no time.

• 4 large navel oranges, cut into segments 
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar 
• 1/4 tsp. ground cardamom 
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 2 tsp. honey

Drain the orange segments in a strainer set over a medium bowl. Set the segments and juice aside. 

Put the sugar in a small heavy-duty saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring often, until melted and light amber in color, 3 to 5 minutes. Take the pan off the heat and whisk in the orange juice. The mixture will bubble and clump; whisk until smooth again. Stir in the cardamom.

Put the orange segments in the juice bowl and add the syrup. Toss well. 

In a large bowl, whisk 1 Tbs. of the cream with the honey until smooth. Add the remaining cream and beat with an electric hand mixer on high speed until soft peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes. 

Divide the oranges and syrup among serving bowls. Top with the whipped cream. 

Mango-Mint Fool

Your knife will glide easily through the tender part of a mango but will make a grating sound when you get too close to the pit and the stringy flesh.

• 2 ripe medium mangos (about 14 oz. each), peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks    
• 1/3 cup sugar
• 3 Tbs. fresh orange juice
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh mint
• Generous pinch of salt
• Tiny pinch of cayenne
• 1 cup cold ultra-pasteurized heavy cream

In a food processor, process the mango chunks, sugar, orange juice, mint, salt, and cayenne until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed, about 1-1/2 minutes. You should have about 1-1/2 cups mango purée. Taste and add more sugar or salt if needed, remembering that the flavors will be muted when you fold the purée into the cream. Chill until very cold, about 2 hours.

In a chilled bowl, whip the cream to firm but not stiff peaks. With a rubber spatula, gently fold 1 cup of the chilled purée into the whipped cream just until fully incorporated. Gently stir in the remaining purée to make swirls. Serve immediately or refrigerate up to 24 hours.

Ice Cream Parfaits with Strawberries and Balsamic Syrup

Sweet strawberries, tart balsamic, and vanilla ice cream make one great dessert.

• 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
• 1 pint (12 oz.) strawberries, hulled and thinly sliced
• 3 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper (optional)
• 1-1/2 pints vanilla ice cream, gelato, or frozen yogurt
• 1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted

Bring the vinegar to a simmer in a 2-quart nonreactive saucepan over medium heat. Simmer until glossy and reduced to 3 Tbs., about 10 minutes. Pour the reduced vinegar into a small bowl and let cool to room temperature.


Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, sprinkle the strawberries with the sugar and pepper (if using) and toss gently until combined. Let stand, stirring once or twice, until the sugar dissolves and the berries release some juice, 10 to 15 minutes.


Put a scoop of ice cream in each of 4 parfait glasses or bowls. Top each with about 1/4 cup strawberries and their juices, drizzle with about 1 tsp. balsamic syrup, and sprinkle with about 1/2 Tbs. pine nuts. Repeat with the remaining ingredients. Serve immediately.

Coffee & Cream Icebox Cake

Coffee and hazelnuts give this cake—a variation on Nabisco’s Famous Wafer Roll recipe—a more sophisticated flavor. To be safe, buy two boxes of cookies, as some may break. This cake slices best after 2 days in the refrigerator.

• 1-3/4 cups heavy cream
• 1 Tbs. instant espresso powder
• 1 Tbs. sugar
• 44 Nabisco Famous Chocolate Wafers
• 1/4 cup finely chopped, toasted hazelnuts for garnish
• 1/4 cup crushed chocolate wafer cookie crumbs

Lightly grease a 6-cup loaf pan. Line the pan with two pieces of overlapping plastic wrap, allowing the excess to hang over the edges of the pan.

In a bowl, combine the cream, espresso powder, and sugar. Whisk until the cream holds firm peaks. Spoon about two-thirds of the whipped cream into the prepared pan. Tap the pan firmly on the counter to even the cream and eliminate any air bubbles.

Starting at a short side of the pan, arrange 11 cookies in the cream, standing them on their edge in a row like dominoes. Gently squeeze the cookies together as you go. Do the same with a second row of cookies, slightly overlapping the cookies from the second row with the cookies in the first row. Continue with two more rows for a total of four rows.

Press down on the cookies gently. Cover them with the remaining cream. Smooth the cream with a spatula, gently pressing to make sure any gaps between the cookies are filled. Tap the pan on the counter several times to eliminate any air pockets.

Cover the cake with the excess plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 24 hours, preferably 2 days. When ready to serve, peel the plastic wrap from the top and gently tug on the plastic to loosen the cake from the sides of the pan. Set a cutting board on top of the pan and invert the cake onto the board. Lift the pan off and gently peel away the plastic wrap. Mix the hazelnuts with the cookie crumbs and sprinkle over the top of the cake. Slice carefully with a warm knife.

Frozen Hot Chocolate

This delicious cross between a milk shake and a slushie makes for a surprisingly refreshing (and easy) summertime dessert. You can add about 1/4 cup of chocolate or coffee liqueur for a boozy kick, if you like.

• 1 cup whole milk
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 1/2 cup natural unsweetened cocoa powder
• 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
• 3/4 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• Kosher salt
• 2 cups ice cubes
• 3 Tbs. bittersweet or semisweet chocolate shavings (made with a vegetable peeler)

Blend the milk, cream, cocoa, sugar, vanilla, and a pinch of salt in a blender until well combined and the sugar is dissolved. Add the ice and blend just until slushy. Transfer to glasses, top with the chocolate shavings, and serve immediately with spoons.

Goat Cheese Panna Cotta with Caramelized Figs

Panna cotta, a smooth custard, is typically made with cream, but this recipe adds buttermilk and fresh goat cheese for a tangy flavor.  Topped with caramelized figs, this is an unusual and elegant dessert.

• 2 tsp. unflavored gelatin
• 2 cups heavy cream
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 1 cup fresh goat cheese, softened
• 1-1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1 cup buttermilk
• 4 ripe fresh figs, cut in half

Sprinkle the gelatin over 4 teaspoons water to soften. Set aside.


Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, combine the heavy cream and 1/2 cup of the sugar. Bring to a simmer over medium heat but do not let boil, then turn off the heat and whisk in the softened goat cheese, whisking until the pieces of cheese are totally incorporated and the mixture is smooth. Add the vanilla and the softened gelatin and whisk again to dissolve the gelatin. Whisk in the buttermilk. Strain the hot mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into a pitcher with a pour spout.


Lightly grease 6 large or 8 small ramekins. Pour the mixture into the ramekins and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or overnight.


Just before serving, caramelize the figs: Dip the cut sides of the figs into the remaining 1/4 cup sugar and caramelize them with a home-use blowtorch or by placing them under a broiler, cut side up, for 1 minute.


When ready to serve, carefully dip the bottom of each ramekin into a baking pan of hot water for about 10 seconds. Wipe the bottom of the ramekins dry, then run a thin knife around the edge of the molds to loosen the panna cotta. Set a chilled dessert plate over the top of a ramekin, then flip the plate and ramekin over at the same time, inverting the mold onto the plate. Repeat with the remaining ramekins. Garnish with the caramelized figs and serve immediately. You can also serve the panna cotta in the ramekins, with the figs on the top or alongside.

Coffee-Caramel Pots de Crème

• 2/3 cup granulated sugar  
• 1/4 cup water
• 3-1/2 cups heavy cream
• 1/2 vanilla bean, seeds scraped and pod reserved (or 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract)
• 1 Tbs. ground espresso (or 2 tsp. instant coffee or instant espresso granules)
• 10 large egg yolks

Put a large pot of water on to boil for the water bath. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. Put eight 6-oz. ramekins in a large roasting pan or baking dish with high sides.

Make the caramel cream:

In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar and water and cook over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Raise the heat to high and cook, swirling the pan occasionally, until the mixture is deep amber. Remove the pan from the heat and add a few tablespoons of the cream. Be careful—the hot caramel will spatter. Add a bit more cream and then the rest. The caramel will seize and harden, but it will melt in the cream as you simmer it. Set the pan over medium-low heat. Add the vanilla seeds and pod (if you’re using extract, don’t add it yet) and the espresso or coffee to the caramel cream. While stirring constantly, slowly bring the cream to just below a boil; remove from the heat. In a medium bowl, beat the egg yolks until smooth. Whisk a ladleful of the caramel cream into the yolks and then whisk the yolk mixture into the saucepan with the rest of the caramel cream. Cook slowly, stirring constantly, until the mixture reaches 170°F on an instant-read thermometer, 3 to 4 min. Strain immediately through cheesecloth or a fine sieve. If you’re using vanilla extract, stir it in now.

Bake the custards:

Divide the mixture among the ramekins in the roasting pan. Pull out the oven shelf, put the roasting pan on it (be sure it’s stable), and pour enough boiling water into the pan so that it comes halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover the ramekins with a sheet of foil (simply lay the sheet on top, don’t crimp the edges) and bake for 25 to 45-min.—start checking early—until the custards are set about 1/4 inch in from the sides, the centers respond with a firm jiggle (not a wavelike motion) when you nudge the ramekins, and the centers of the custards register 150° to 155°F on an instant-read thermometer (the hole left by the thermometer will close up as the custards firm). Let the custards cool to room temperature in their water bath. Remove the custards from the bath, cover them with plastic, and refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to two days before serving. Garnish with a dollop of whipped cream (or a rosette from a pastry bag). Or try a sliver of candied citrus peel, a sprig of mint or another delicate herb, or a candied flower (available from Meadowsweets).

Crème Fraîche Whipped Cream

Rich and tangy crème fraîche adds a wonderful zing to whipped cream. It brightens the flavor of the Berry Compote and makes Hazelnut Waffles even yummier, but it's a delicious topping for desserts too.

• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) crème fraîche
• 3 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1 cup cold heavy cream

In a large bowl, whisk the crème fraîche with the sugar until smooth. In a separate large bowl, whip the cream with an electric hand-held or stand mixer until the cream just barely reaches the firm-peak stage (it should hold a peak when the beater is pulled away, but it shouldn't be grainy). With a rubber spatula, gently fold half of the whipped cream into the crème fraîche and then gently fold in the remaining half. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve; whisk a few times before serving.

Summer Corn Chowder with Scallions, Bacon & Potatoes

When you've got fresh corn coming out of your ears, use them in this quick, satisfying soup, which uses the cobs to infuse even more corn flavor into the broth.

• 5 ears fresh corn
• 7 oz. scallions (about 20 medium)
• 3 slices bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 jalapeño, cored, seeded, and finely diced
• 1 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 3-1/2 cups low-salt chicken broth
• 1 large Yukon Gold potato (8 to 9 oz.), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 1-1/2 cups)
• 1-1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• 2 Tbs. heavy cream

Husk the corn and cut off the kernels. Reserve two of the corn cobs and discard the others. Trim and thinly slice the scallions, keeping the dark-green parts separate from the white and light-green parts.

Cook the bacon in a 3- or 4-qt. saucepan over medium heat until browned and crisp, about 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a paper-towel-lined plate. Pour off and discard all but about 1 Tbs. of the bacon fat. Return the pan to medium heat and add the butter. When the butter is melted, add the white and light-green scallions and the jalapeño, salt, and a few grinds of black pepper. Cook, stirring, until the scallions are very soft, about 3 min.

Add the broth, corn, corn cobs, potatoes, and thyme and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer until the potatoes are completely tender, about 15 min. Discard the corn cobs.

Transfer 1 cup of the broth and vegetables to a blender and puree. Return the puree to the pot and stir in the cream and all but 1/3 cup of the scallion greens. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for a couple of minutes to wilt the scallions and blend the flavors. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve sprinkled with the bacon and reserved scallions.

Coffee-Caramel Pots de Crème

• 2/3 cup granulated sugar  
• 1/4 cup water
• 3-1/2 cups heavy cream
• 1/2 vanilla bean, seeds scraped and pod reserved (or 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract)
• 1 Tbs. ground espresso (or 2 tsp. instant coffee or instant espresso granules)
• 10 large egg yolks

Put a large pot of water on to boil for the water bath. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. Put eight 6-oz. ramekins in a large roasting pan or baking dish with high sides.

Make the caramel cream:

In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar and water and cook over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Raise the heat to high and cook, swirling the pan occasionally, until the mixture is deep amber. Remove the pan from the heat and add a few tablespoons of the cream. Be careful—the hot caramel will spatter. Add a bit more cream and then the rest. The caramel will seize and harden, but it will melt in the cream as you simmer it. Set the pan over medium-low heat. Add the vanilla seeds and pod (if you’re using extract, don’t add it yet) and the espresso or coffee to the caramel cream. While stirring constantly, slowly bring the cream to just below a boil; remove from the heat. In a medium bowl, beat the egg yolks until smooth. Whisk a ladleful of the caramel cream into the yolks and then whisk the yolk mixture into the saucepan with the rest of the caramel cream. Cook slowly, stirring constantly, until the mixture reaches 170°F on an instant-read thermometer, 3 to 4 min. Strain immediately through cheesecloth or a fine sieve. If you’re using vanilla extract, stir it in now.

Bake the custards:

Divide the mixture among the ramekins in the roasting pan. Pull out the oven shelf, put the roasting pan on it (be sure it’s stable), and pour enough boiling water into the pan so that it comes halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover the ramekins with a sheet of foil (simply lay the sheet on top, don’t crimp the edges) and bake for 25 to 45-min.—start checking early—until the custards are set about 1/4 inch in from the sides, the centers respond with a firm jiggle (not a wavelike motion) when you nudge the ramekins, and the centers of the custards register 150° to 155°F on an instant-read thermometer (the hole left by the thermometer will close up as the custards firm). Let the custards cool to room temperature in their water bath. Remove the custards from the bath, cover them with plastic, and refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to two days before serving. Garnish with a dollop of whipped cream (or a rosette from a pastry bag). Or try a sliver of candied citrus peel, a sprig of mint or another delicate herb, or a candied flower (available from Meadowsweets).

Chocolate-Raspberry Cookies & Cream

I like to make this with both crème fraîche and heavy cream, but you can use all cream if that’s easier.

• 3 cups frozen raspberries (about 12 oz.), thawed
• 5 Tbs. granulated sugar, more if needed
• Few drops fresh lemon juice
• Kosher salt
• 2/3 cup heavy cream
• 1/3 cup crème fraîche
• 21 Famous Chocolate Wafer thin chocolate cookies
• 6 mint sprigs

Put one cup of the raspberries in a small bowl, sprinkle with two Tbs. of the sugar, mash with a fork, and let sit a few minutes.

Meanwhile, put the remaining 2 cups of berries and 2 more Tbs. of sugar in a food processor (or blender) and process until the berries form a purée. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a small bowl, pressing with a rubber spatula to get the seeds out. Squeeze in a few drops of lemon juice and a tiny pinch of salt. Taste and add more sugar or lemon if needed. The sauce should be thin enough to drizzle. If it seems too thick, add a few drops of water. Cover and refrigerate.

In a medium bowl, combine the cream, the crème fraîche, and the remaining 1 Tbs. sugar and whip with a hand mixer until the mixture forms firm, thick peaks. Stir the mashed berries and sugar and lightly fold into the cream mixture with a rubber spatula, leaving streaks.

Reserve 6 of the cookies for decoration and crunch up the rest into uneven pieces—not too small. Fold the cookies into the cream. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing the wrap onto the surface of the cream, and chill until the cookie pieces are thoroughly softened, at least 2 hours and preferably overnight.

To serve, use an ice cream scoop or large spoon to scoop out a mound of cookies and cream into a small bowl or onto a plate. Drizzle a ribbon of raspberry sauce around the plate, tuck a cookie into the cream, and decorate with a mint sprig.

Fettuccine with Creamy Sage Sauce

Cream sauces go well with all kinds of pasta shapes, but I especially like how this sauce holds up to a hearty flat ribbon pasta. Ricotta salata is a smooth, firm, pure-white Italian sheep's milk cheese. Ricotta affumicata is a lightly smoked version of the same cheese. Both are available at specialty grocery stores, cheese shops, and Italian groceries. If you can't find them, increase the amount of parmigiano reggiano.

• Salt
• 8 Tbs. unsalted butter, cut into pieces
• 8 large, fresh sage leaves
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1/2 cup homemade or low-salt canned chicken stock
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 lb. dried fettuccine
• 1/4 cup freshly grated parmigiano reggiano
• 2 oz. ricotta salata, preferably smoked (ricotta affumicata), cut into thin shards with a vegetable peeler or on the side of a box grater

Bring a large pot of water to a boil; add about 1 Tbs. salt. In a large skillet, combine the butter and sage. Stir over low heat until the butter has melted. Add the cream and stock and bring to a boil; cook until the mixture lightly coats the back of a spoon, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the sauce from the heat but keep it warm.

Meanwhile, cook the fettuccine until al dente, 10 to 12 min. With tongs, lift the pasta from the pot, let it drain for a moment over the boiling water, and then add it to the sauce in the skillet. (Alternatively, drain the pasta in a colander and add it to the sauce.) Cook gently on low for a few minutes for the pasta to absorb the sauce. Remove the pasta from the heat and stir in the grated cheese, and season amply with pepper. Serve in warmed bowls topped with the shaved ricotta.

Cousin John's Café Belgian Waffles

This is basically an éclair batter cooked in a waffle iron. The waffles cook up a beautiful golden brown on the outside and are so eggy and soft on the inside—I can’t decide whether it’s more like eating an omelet or a popover. Either way, they melt in your mouth. I used to make these at Cousin John’s Café in Park Slope, Brooklyn, which I owned with my cousin Louis. (He named the restaurant after me.) Cousin John’s, which opened in 1986, is still around, and Louis is still serving these waffles. They are made with bread flour instead of all-purpose to give them the necessary structure to support the eggs and cream.

• 1 cup plus 1/4 cup whole milk
• 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1/2 tsp. coarse salt
• 7/8 cup bread flour
• 4 large eggs
• 1/2 cup heavy cream, plus 3/4 cup for whipping
• 2 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar
• 1 cup pure maple syrup, for serving
• 3 cups mixed fresh berries

In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine 1 cup of the milk, the butter, and salt and bring to a rolling boil over medium heat. Remove from the heat. Add the flour all at once and stir with a wooden spoon to incorporate. Return the pan to low heat and cook, stirring, until the dough comes together in a mass, pulls away from the sides, and leaves a film on the bottom of the pan, 2 to 3 minutes.

Transfer the dough to the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on low speed for 2 to 3 minutes to release excess steam. Increase the speed to medium. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating until fully incorporated after each addition and scraping down the sides and bottom of the bowl.

Return the mixer to low speed. Beat in the remaining 1/4 cup milk and the 1/2 cup of cream.

Combine the remaining 3/4 cup of cream and the confectioners’ sugar in a medium bowl. Whisk or beat with an electric mixer until medium peaks form; cover the whipped cream and refrigerate until ready to serve.

In a small saucepan, heat the syrup over medium heat until warm, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a serving pitcher.

Heat an 8-inch round Belgian waffle iron. Scoop in half of the batter and spread over the grate. Cook until the steam dissipates and you no longer see steam coming out the sides. Then open and check the waffle: It should be amber-brown with a soft interior. The total cooking time will be 5 to 8 minutes. Repeat with remaining butter.

Serve immediately, with berries, warm syrup, and whipped cream.

Walnut & Rum-Raisin Crêpes with Whipped-Cream Chocolate Sauce

These crêpes, known as gundel paliscinta, are deep, dark, and delicious, and the sauce is both unusual and outstanding -- the whipped cream folded in at the end gives it an amazing texture. In many Hungarian restaurants, these crêpes are flamed with Grand Marnier when presented. While it is a dramatic touch, I really think it's gilding the lily.

For the crêpes:

• 2 large eggs
• 1/2 cup cold milk
• 1/2 cup cold sparkling water; more as needed
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 6-3/4 oz. (1-1/2 cups) all-purpose flour
• Melted butter for frying the crêpes

For the filling:

• 1/2 cup dark rum
• 1/2 cup golden raisins
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1-1/4 cups walnut halves, coarsely chopped
• 2 Tbs. chopped candied orange peel or 1/2 tsp. grated orange zest
• 1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1 Tbs. cocoa powder
• Pinch salt

For the sauce:

• 1/4 cup cocoa powder
• 1/3 cup sugar
• 2 tsp. all-purpose flour
• Pinch salt
• 1 cup milk
• 3 oz. semisweet chocolate, finely chopped
• 1/2 cup heavy cream

To make the crêpes

Whisk the eggs with the cold milk, sparkling water, and salt. Whisking steadily, sift the flour over the egg mixture in a gradual but steady "rain" to make a smooth batter. Let sit for 20 min. and then add more sparkling water if necessary to get the consistency of heavy cream.

Heat a 6- to 8-inch crêpe or omelet pan (nonstick is fine but not necessary). Brush the pan with melted butter. Tilting and turning the pan with one hand, pour in just enough batter to cover the pan's surface, about 3 Tbs. Let the crêpe cook until golden on the underside, 1 to 2 minutes. (don't undercook them) and then flip or turn the crêpe with a small spatula or your fingers to cook the other side until just set, about 30 seconds more. The side cooked first will be prettier and should be the outer side when filling the crêpes.

Adjust the heat so you get a definite sizzle when adding the batter, and thin the batter if the crêpes are too thick and flabby. Stack the finished crêpes on a plate as you go. Cover with plastic and refrigerate until using, up to three days ahead. You can also wrap the crêpes tightly and freeze them (put a piece of waxed paper between each one for easier separation).

To make the filling

Heat the rum and soak the raisins in it while assembling the other ingredients. In a small saucepan, bring the cream and sugar to a boil, stirring, and add the walnuts, candied orange peel (or zest), cinnamon, cocoa powder, and salt. Bring back to a boil, stirring, and cook until the liquid has reduced almost completely but the nuts are still well coated and glossy, about 3 minutes. Stir in the raisins and rum and cool. You can make this filling a day or two ahead and refrigerate it until time to use.

For the chocolate sauce

In a medium saucepan, combine the cocoa powder, sugar, flour, and salt. Whisking steadily, slowly pour in the milk to make a smooth paste. Bring the mixture to a boil and cook about 30 seconds to cook off the raw floury taste, and then remove from the heat and add the chopped chocolate. Stir until smooth, cover loosely with plastic, and cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally to help it cool and prevent a skin from forming. Just before serving the crêpes, whip the cream until it just forms soft peaks. Stir about one-quarter of the whipped cream into the chocolate to lighten it, and then carefully fold the rest of the whipped cream into the sauce until well blended.

To finish

Spread about 2 Tbs. of the filling on the underside of a crêpe (reheat the filling slightly if it's cold from the refrigerator). Fold the crêpe in half, and then in half again to make a quarter circle. Repeat with the remaining crêpes, dividing the filling evenly. You can do this early on the day of serving and just keep the filled crêpes covered at room temperature.

In a large frying pan, heat 2 Tbs. of butter over medium heat until sizzling. Add the filled crêpes to the pan without crowding them (do this in batches if you need to). Cook the crêpes until warmed through and browned on each side, about 1 min. per side. Add more butter if necessary to the pan during cooking.

Arrange 3 crêpes on each plate and drizzle a generous ribbon of chocolate sauce on top, passing more sauce at the table. Serve immediately.

Milk Chocolate Ice Cream

This is an ice cream for those who luxuriate in the creaminess of milk chocolate, which is enhanced by the cream in the custard base. Dress yours up for company with roasted strawberries, chocolate sauce, and a dollop of whipped cream. 

• 1-1/2 cups whole milk
• 1-1/2 cups heavy cream
• 1 Tbs. natural cocoa powder
• 1/3 cup granulated sugar
• 7 oz. good-quality milk chocolate, finely chopped
• 8 egg yolks

In a heavy-based saucepan, combine the milk and cream. Sift the cocoa powder over the mixture; whisk thoroughly to combine. Sprinkle about half the sugar into the saucepan and slowly bring the mixture to a simmer; don't let it boil.

Put the chopped chocolate in a medium bowl and fill a large bowl with ice water.

While waiting for the milk mixture to simmer, whisk the egg yolks with the remaining sugar. Whisk vigorously until the yolks thicken and become a paler shade of yellow, 3 to 4 minutes.

To combine the egg and milk mixtures, slowly pour half the simmering milk into the yolks while whisking constantly to temper it. Whisk that mixture back into the milk in the saucepan. Reduce the heat to low and stir constantly with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula in a figure-eight motion until the custard is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon (about 170°F), 10 to 15 minutes.

Pour the cooked custard over the chocolate. Whisk until all the chocolate is melted. Set the custard bowl over the bowl of ice water; stir until the custard is completely cool. Pour through a fine sieve if there are any lumps and then refrigerate for several hours or overnight.

Pour the custard into an ice cream machine with at least a 1-quart capacity and freeze following the manufacturer's directions.