Spice-Cured Salmon with Beets & Horseradish Cream

Cured salmon (gravad lax) is quintessentially Scandinavian. I have a recipe for every season, but this is our Christmas favorite thanks to the festive warm spices and orange zest. I love the combination of tangy raw beets and spicy horseradish cream with the silky, citrusy salmon. It makes an elegant first course and a deliciously cool counterpoint to hot White Wine & Elderflower Gløgg. To save time, you can substitute cream-style prepared horseradish for the fresh horseradish cream, though the flavor won’t be the same.

For the salmon

• 2 Tbs. black peppercorns
• 2 Tbs. coriander seeds
• 20 whole cloves
• 20 green cardamom pods
• 9 oz. kosher salt (about 1-3/4 cups Diamond Crystal or 1 cup Morton’s)
• 1-1/2 cups granulated sugar
• 2 Tbs. finely grated orange zest (from 2 oranges)
• 1 4-lb. skin-on salmon fillet (preferably wild), belly flap trimmed and pin bones removed

For the beets and horseradish cream

• 3 medium red beets, peeled, halved, and very thinly sliced
• 1/4 cup cider vinegar
• 3/4 cup crème fraîche
• 3/4 cup finely grated fresh horseradish
• 1-1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For serving

• Rye crispbreads, such as Finn Crisp or Wasa
• Fresh dill sprigs
• Lemon wedges

Cure the salmon

With a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, finely grind the peppercorns, coriander, cloves, and cardamom pods. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in the salt, sugar, and orange zest.

Arrange several long pieces of plastic wrap on a large rimmed baking sheet. Put the salmon on the plastic skin side down, cover the flesh evenly with the salt mixture, and wrap tightly. Refrigerate for 4 days.

Make the beets and horseradish cream

In a medium bowl, toss the beets with 2 Tbs. of the vinegar; let stand for at least 30 minutes.

In a small bowl, whisk the crème fraîche, horseradish, sugar, and the remaining 2 Tbs. vinegar; season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate.

Serve

Unwrap the salmon and rinse under cold running water to remove the curing mixture. Pat dry with paper towels. Transfer to a cutting board and very thinly slice the salmon (Using a long, thin, sharp knife, slice the salmon as thinly as you can. Starting at the wider end if the filet, hold the knife at a 45-degree angle and try for slices so thin that you can see the knife through the salmon). Slice only as much as you need. Garnish with the dill sprigs and serve with the beets, horseradish cream, crispbreads, and lemon wedges.

Radish, Carrot, and Edamame Stir-Fry

A quick turn in a sizzling-hot wok gives radishes and carrots deliciously browned edges. Be sure to cut the vegetables into uniform slices so they cook evenly. This is a great side dish for seafood.

• 2 Tbs. mirin
• 1 Tbs. reduced-sodium soy sauce
• Kosher salt
• 1 Tbs. peanut oil
• 5 medium carrots (about 3/4 lb.), peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut on the diagonal into 1/4-inch-thick slices
• 1-3/4 lb. radishes (about 2 bunches), trimmed and sliced crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick rounds (reserve tops for another use, if desired)
• 1 Tbs. minced garlic
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
• 2/3 cup shelled edamame (thawed, if using frozen)
• 1 tsp. toasted sesame seeds

In a small bowl, combine the mirin, soy sauce, and 1/2 tsp. salt.

Heat a 14-inch flat-bottom wok (or a 12-inch heavy-duty skillet) over high heat. Swirl in the oil. Add the carrots and radishes and stir-fry until the edges begin to brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger, and continue to stir-fry until the vegetables are crisp-tender, about 2 minutes more.

Add the edamame and soy sauce mixture and stir-fry until just heated through, about 1 minute. Stir in the sesame seeds and serve.

Celeriac & Yukon Gold Purée

The little bit of horseradish brightens up this earthy mash, which makes a great side dish for a pork roast or chops. The best way to peel celeriac is with a sharp paring knife. For a smooth purée, use a ricer or food mill. You can make this with a hand-held potato masher, but it will be lumpy and decidedly rustic.

• 1-1/2 lb. celeriac (1 large or 2 small), peeled and roughly chopped
• 1-1/2 lb. Yukon Gold or russet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
• 1 Tbs. plus 1-1/2 tsp. coarse salt
• 3/4 cup milk or half-and-half
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 Tbs. grated fresh or prepared horseradish, or to taste
• Fresh lemon juice to taste (I use 1 scant tsp.)
• Freshly ground white pepper

Tip:

Celeriac needs to be peeled with a knife, rather than a vegetable peeler.

Put the celeriac and potatoes in a pot, cover with water by at least an inch, and add 1 Tbs. of the salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium, cover partway, and cook until very tender, 20 to 25 min. Drain. Return the vegetables to the pot and set it over medium heat for 1 to 2 min., shaking and stirring to evaporate any excess water. Rinse a small saucepan in cold water (this will make the pan easier to clean later); pour in the milk (or half-and-half). Bring to just below a simmer over medium heat; set aside. Force the vegetables through a ricer or food mill and return them to the boiling pot. Beat in the butter with a wooden spoon. Add the milk to the potatoes a little at a time, beating vigorously after each addition. Stir in the horseradish and lemon juice. Add the remaining 1-1/2-tsp. salt, season with pepper, and serve.

Potato & Rutabaga Gratin with Blue Cheese

While rutabagas taste and behave a lot like turnips, they’re nuttier, less peppery, and creamier, which is why I prefer them in gratins. The easiest way to peel a rutabaga— especially a waxed one—is with a sharp paring knife. Use a very sharp knife or a mandoline to slice the rutabaga and potatoes.

• 3 cups heavy cream
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 hearty sprigs fresh thyme
• Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
• 3 Tbs. melted unsalted butter; more butter for the foil
• 1 medium rutabaga (about 1-1/2 lb.), peeled, quartered, and very thinly sliced
• 2 to 3 russet potatoes (about 1-1/2 lb.), peeled and very thinly sliced
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 oz. blue cheese, such as Maytag, Roquefort, or Bleu d’Auvergne, crumbled
• 3 Tbs. fresh breadcrumbs, toasted (see How to make fresh breadcrumbs for instructions)

Tip:

For the neatest servings, let the gratin sit for at least 10 min. before slicing.

Heat the oven to 375°F. Rinse a small saucepan in cold water (this will make the pan easier to clean later), add-the cream, garlic, bay leaf, thyme, and nutmeg. Bring to just below a simmer over medium heat, remove from the heat, cover, and set aside to infuse for about 30 min.

Brush a large gratin dish or 3-qt. flameproof casserole dish with a little of the melted butter. Arrange half of the rutabaga slices in the bottom of the dish, followed by half of the potato slices. Season with salt and pepper. Dot the surface with the blue cheese. Continue with another layer of rutabaga slices and a final layer of potatoes. Season the top with salt and pepper. Strain the seasoned cream over the top. In a small bowl, combine the breadcrumbs with the remaining melted butter and sprinkle over the top. Butter the dull side of a large sheet of foil and cover the gratin. Bake for 40 min., remove the foil, and continue to bake until the top is browned, the sides are bubbly, and the potatoes are tender when pierced, another 30 to 40 min. Let sit for 10 min. before serving.

Vegetable Curry and Black Rice

This is an American adaptation of the different spice blends of curry in India. You can jazz it up with black rice.

For the curry spice blend

• 2 Tbs. ground turmeric
• 1 stick cinnamon or 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1 tsp. cardamom seed
• 1/4 tsp. whole cloves
• 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
• 1/2 tsp. fennel seed
• 1/4 tsp. coriander seed
• 1/4 tsp. fenugreek
• 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

For the rice

• 1 cup black rice or basmati rice
• 2 cups water
• 1 tsp. salt, plus more for seasoning
• 2 Tbs. brown butter, divided
• 1 tsp. saffron threads
• 1/4 cup chopped pistachios
• 1 small onion, cut into small dice
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tsp. minced fresh ginger
• 2 tsp. Curry Spice Blend
• 1-1/2 cups chicken stock or vegetable stock
• 1 tsp. sugar
• 1 tsp. molasses
• 2 tsp. freshly squeezed lime juice, plus lime wedges for serving
• 1 large russet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
• 3 carrots, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 rutabaga or turnip (about 10 ounces), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1/2 head cauliflower or broccoli, cut into florets
• 1/2 cup coconut milk
• 1/4 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
• 4 sprigs fresh cilantro

Tip:

To make brown butter, set a heatproof container in an ice bath. Put 1/2 cup butter, cut into small chunks, in a small saucepan over low heat. The butter will melt, foam and start to turn brown and smell nutty in about 8 to 10 minutes. As soon as it hits this fragrance and color, remove the pan from the heat and pour into the container in the ice bath to stop the cooking. Extra brown butter will keep for several days in the fridge.

For the spice blend

Grind all the ingredients in a spice grinder and store, covered, in a cool, dark place. The curry will keep for up to a year, but it loses flavor over time. You can use a Madras curry blend, but it won’t be as dramatic.

For the rice

In a small saucepan, add the rice, the 2 cups water, and a pinch of salt. Cover and bring to a simmer. Decrease the heat to low, and cook, covered, for 15 minutes. When done, stir in 1 Tbs. of the brown butter, the saffron, and the pistachios. Set aside.

In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add the remaining 1 Tbs. brown butter and the onion. Sauté or “sweat” for 2 to 3 minutes, then add the garlic, ginger, the 1 tsp. salt, and the 2 tsp. curry blend. Stir for 1 minute to release the oils in the spices. Add the stock, sugar, molasses, and lime juice and simmer for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the potato, carrots, and rutabaga in a pot of cold water with a pinch of salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to a simmer, cook for 5 minutes, and add the cauliflower. Cook until the vegetables are easily pierced with a knife, another 5 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Add the coconut milk to the curry and then all of the vegetables. Simmer for another few minutes.

To serve, place 1 Tbs. of yogurt in the bottom of each of 4 serving bowls. Spoon some of the rice into the bowl and then arrange vegetables around and on the rice and add some of the curry sauce around the bowl. Garnish with the cilantro leaves and stems and lime wedges. Serve immediately.

Carrots and Parsnips with Bacon and Thyme

Bacon adds its smoky goodness to this versatile side dish. Cut the parsnips just a tad bigger than the carrots because they soften more quickly.

• 1 Tbs. fresh orange juice
• 2 tsp. red wine vinegar
• 2 tsp. honey
• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 3/4 lb. carrots (about 4 medium), peeled and cut into pieces 2 to 2-1/2 inches long and 1/2 inch wide
• 3/4lb. parsnips (about 4 medium), peeled, halved lengthwise, woody cores
  discarded, and cut into pieces 2-1/2 to 3 inches long and 1/2 inch wide
  
  
• 2 large shallots, root ends trimmed, peeled, and cut into 3/4-inch-wide wedges
• 5 sprigs fresh thyme plus 1/2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
• 2 slices bacon, cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces
• Kosher salt

Combine the orange juice, vinegar, and honey in a small bowl. Set aside.

In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the carrots, parsnips, shallots, thyme sprigs, bacon, and 1 tsp. salt; toss well to coat.

Cover the pan with the lid ajar by about 1 inch. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the shallots are limp and lightly browned and most of the carrots and parsnips have a little bit of brown on them, 8 to 12 minutes. As the mixture cooks, you should hear a gentle sizzle.

Uncover, turn the heat down to low, and cook, stirring occasionally and then gently pushing the vegetables back into a single layer so that most have direct contact with the pan, until the vegetables are tender and nicely browned, 12 to 16 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and discard the thyme sprigs. Stir in the orange-honey mixture and the thyme leaves, and season to taste with salt. Serve right away or let sit off the heat, partially covered, until ready to serve, and then reheat gently over medium-low heat.

Parsnip Pancakes with Caramelized Onions & Sour Cream

These pancakes are perfect partners for a simple roast like pork, lamb, or chicken. The onions can be cooked ahead and reheated just before serving; the parsnips can also be parcooked, grated, and combined with the chopped leek a few hours ahead. 

• 3 Tbs. olive oil
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 large or 2 small yellow onions, thinly sliced (to yield about 2 cups)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 lb. small to medium parsnips (about 6  medium), peeled (if very thick, halve them lengthwise)
• 1 medium leek, white part only, finely chopped (to yield about 1/2 cup)
• 1 large egg, lightly beaten
• 3 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• Sour cream for garnish

In a medium skillet, heat 1 Tbs. each of the olive oil and butter over medium heat. When the foam subsides, add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until very soft and golden, 20 to 25 minutes; reduce the heat if they brown too quickly. Season with salt to taste and set aside.

Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, bring 2 quarts salted water to a boil. Add the parsnips (cut them in half if they don’t fit in the pan) and cook for 3 minutes. Drain, run under cold water to cool them quickly, and drain again very well. Grate the parsnips in a food processor fitted with a medium grating disk. In a medium bowl, combine the parsnips,  leek, and egg. Stir in the flour, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/8 tsp. pepper.

In a 10-to 12-inch heavy skillet, heat the remaining 2 Tbs. oil and 1 Tbs. butter over medium-high heat until the foam subsides. Shape the parsnip mixture into four equal balls. Put them in the skillet and press on each with a flat spatula to make a cake about 3-1/2 inches wide. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until browned on one side, 4 to 6  minutes. Turn the cakes over and brown the other side, 4 to 5 minutes. Flip to recrisp the first side, about 30 seconds. Drain briefly on paper towels and then serve while hot, garnished with a large dollop of sour cream and the caramelized onions.

Miso-Honey-Glazed Turnips

These turnips may not look like much, but one bite will make you say “wow.” The savory miso combined with sweet honey and peppery turnips is pure magic. Web extra: View an audio slideshow to hear the sound of the glaze as it crackles, indicating that it’s time to lower the heat.

• 1 lb. trimmed and peeled turnips, cut into 1-inch wedges (about 2-1/2 cups)
• 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 1 Tbs. white miso
• 1 Tbs. honey
• Kosher salt

Put the turnips in an 8-inch-wide, 3- to 4-quart saucepan and arrange snugly. Add butter, miso, honey, 1/2 tsp. salt, and enough water to just cover the turnips (about 2 cups). Bring to a boil over high heat.

Cook over high heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until most of the liquid has reduced to a syrupy glaze and the turnips are tender, 10 to 12 minutes. (If the glaze is done before the turnips, add about 1/2 cup water and continue to cook. If the turnips are done first, remove them and boil the liquid until syrupy.)

Lower the heat to medium and toss to coat the turnips with the glaze. Season to taste with salt and serve. (The glazed turnips can be kept warm, covered, for about 20 minutes.)

Mashed Sweet Potatoes with Mango Chutney

Serve this slightly sweet side dish with roasted chicken, turkey cutlets, or pork chops.

• 2 lb. sweet potatoes (about 3 medium), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch chunks
• Kosher salt
• 1/3 cup jarred Major Grey’s mango chutney
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 2 small scallions, thinly sliced (white and green parts separated)
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped crystallized ginger
• Freshly ground black pepper

Put the sweet potatoes in a large saucepan. Add cool water to barely cover and a large pinch of salt. Boil over high heat until the potatoes are very soft when pierced with a fork, about 10 minutes. Drain the potatoes in a colander and return them to the saucepan. Set the pan over high heat and dry the potatoes, stirring often, until any liquid has evaporated, about 30 seconds. Remove from the heat.


If the chutney contains any large chunks, finely chop them. In a small saucepan, bring the cream, chutney, scallion whites, ginger, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper to a boil over medium-high heat. Remove from the heat.


Force the sweet potatoes through a ricer or a food mill and into a serving bowl (or mash for a chunkier texture). Stir in the warm cream mixture and season to taste with more salt and pepper. Sprinkle with the scallion greens and serve immediately.

Carrot Salad with Walnut Oil & Honey

You might be surprised how well the toasty flavors of the walnuts and walnut oil complement the freshly grated carrot. This salad would be a delicious accompaniment to roast pork or chicken.

• 1-1/2 lb. carrots, peeled and grated on the medium holes of a box grater
• 1 cup walnuts, toasted and chopped
• 1/2 cup dried currants
• 1 orange, juiced (about 1/2 cup)
• 3 Tbs. apple-cider vinegar
• 1 Tbs. honey
• 3 Tbs. untoasted walnut oil (available online at Lepicerie.com)
• Kosher or sea salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2-1/2 Tbs. finely chopped chives

Combine the grated carrots, walnuts, and currants in a medium serving bowl.

In a small bowl, whisk together the orange juice, cider vinegar, and honey. Slowly whisk in the walnut oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Toss the carrot mixture with the vinaigrette and 2 Tbs. of the chives. Adjust the seasoning to taste. You can serve the salad immediately, but it will taste even better if you let it sit at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes. Sprinkle with the remaining 1/2 Tbs. chives right before serving.

Shaved Watermelon Radish and Asparagus Salad with Castelvetrano Olives and Gouda

This salad is a beautiful mosaic of complementary textures and fresh spring flavors. Look for magenta-centered watermelon radishes at farmers’ markets. If you can’t track them down, substitute another radish variety. Castelvetranos are big, buttery, bright green olives that are found at most specialty markets. White balsamic vinegar adds sweet acidity without the dark color of regular balsamic, allowing the vibrant colors of this dish to shine.

• 60 medium-large asparagus spears, ends trimmed or snapped away
• 2 cups Castelvetrano olives
• Good-quality extra-virgin olive oil for dressing
• White balsamic vinegar for dressing
• Kosher salt
• Freshly cracked pepper
• 4 medium watermelon radishes, trimmed
• 5 oz. Gouda or other semifirm cheese

Have ready a steamer rack and a pan of simmering water. Fill a large bowl with ice water and place near the stove. Line a platter with a double thickness of paper towels and place near the ice water. Working in batches, arrange about one-third of the asparagus on the steamer rack and place the rack over the water, making sure the water is 1 inch or so below the rack. Cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and steam the asparagus until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Using tongs, immediately transfer the asparagus to the bowl of ice water. Let cool for a few minutes and then transfer the asparagus to the towel-lined platter and blot dry. Repeat with the remaining asparagus, steaming and cooling them in two batches.

Using a sharp paring knife, slice each asparagus spear in half lengthwise, or in thirds if the spears are particularly thick. Set aside.

Pit the olives by crushing them with the side of a chef’s knife or otherhard, flat object. Work the pits out with your fingers and discard.
Place the olives back into the olive juice (to keep their bright green
color) and refrigerate until needed.

Place the asparagus in a bowl
and toss with just enough olive oil to coat without leaving a puddle at
the bottom of the bowl. Drizzle with a splash of vinegar, season with
salt and pepper, and then gently toss again. Arrange the asparagus on a
platter or divide among individual salad plates.

Using a mandoline set on the narrowest setting, shave the radishes into rounds and place in a bowl. Toss the radish slices with just enough olive oil to coat, add a splash of vinegar, and then season with salt and pepper and toss again. Spread the radish slices across the center of the plated asparagus. Drain the olives and scatter them around the platter or plates. Using a vegetable peeler, shave thin slices of the cheese over the top. Garnish with pepper and serve immediately.

Basic Roasted Parsnips

You can jazz up this basic recipe by adding Rosemary-Lemon Thyme Oil or Moroccan Spice Rub when you toss the parsnips with olive oil and salt and pepper before roasting. Or toss the parsnips with Sesame Sea Salt, Caramelized Shallot Butter, Ginger-Lemon Soy Splash, or Toasted Coriander & Garlic Oil after they come out of the oven.

• 1 lb. parsnips, peeled
• 1 to 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Fresh lemon juice (optional)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 475° F. Line a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet with parchment. Halve the parsnips crosswise, to divide the thick and thin ends from each other. Halve or quarter the thick ends lengthwise, then cut all segments crosswise into 2-inch lengths. In a medium bowl, toss the parsnips with enough of the olive oil to coat generously, the salt, and a few grinds of pepper.

Turn the parsnips out onto the baking sheet and arrange the pieces so that they are evenly spaced and lying on a cut side. If the pieces cover the baking sheet sparsely, arrange them toward the edges of the baking sheet for the best browning. Roast the parsnips until browned on bottom, about 10 minutes. Flip and continue to roast until tender, about 5 minutes.

Return the parsnips to the bowl in which you tossed them with the oil, or put them in a clean serving bowl. If they seem a bit dry, drizzle them with a little oil. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice or another flavoring, if using.

Baby Carrot Salad

Orange-blossom water is lovely staple of Moroccan cooking, but you only need a little to bring out the carrots' brightness in this salad.

• 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 3 Tbs. mild honey, preferably organic
• 1/2 cup slivered almonds, toasted
• 1-1/2 Tbs. apple-cider vinegar
• 1/2 tsp. orange-blossom water, more to taste
• 2-1/2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
• 1 fresh red Thai other small chile, halved, seeds and ribs removed, and thinly sliced
• 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt
• 25 (4- to 5-inch long) young carrots (orange or a combination of red, purple, white and yellow), peeled and trimmed
• 1/2 cup plain yogurt (whole or low-fat)
• 2-1/2 oz. mâche (about 6 loosely packed cups)

Melt the butter in a 10- to 12-inch heavy frying pan over medium heat and cook until the butter turns brown and has a nutty fragrance; be careful not to burn it. Add the honey and swirl pan to incorporate, and then add the almonds. When the mixture is bubbling, add the vinegar (the mixture will sizzle and may splatter a bit), and orange-blossom water. Bring to a boil and continue to boil for 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, add the chile and lemon juice, and then whisk in the oil until blended. Cool to room temperature and season to taste with salt.

Fill a 4-quart pot two-thirds full with water, add 1 tsp. salt, and bring to a boil. Add the carrots and simmer until just tender when pierced with a small sharp knife, about 8 minutes. Drain and run cold water over the carrots to cool slightly (they should still be warm). Pat them dry and halve each lengthwise. Transfer to a medium bowl and toss with 1/3 cup of dressing. Season to taste with salt.

Divide the carrots among salad plates. Top each with some of the mâche, and drizzle with the yogurt and the remaining dressing.

Green Beans and Carrots in Charmoula Sauce

Charmoula is a North African pesto of sorts, usually made from garlic, cumin, fresh herbs, oil, and lemon juice. Here, paprika adds a warm note to the mix. This vibrant side dish tastes great hot, warm, or at room temperature. 

• 2 large cloves garlic, peeled
• 2 oz. fresh cilantro (about 2 cups)
• 1 oz. fresh flat-leaf parsley (about 1 cup)
• 6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
• 1/2 tsp. sweet or hot paprika
• 1/2 tsp. cumin seeds, toasted and ground
• Sea salt
• 2 lb. slender green beans, trimmed
• 1 lb. carrots, peeled and cut into thin 4-inch-long sticks
   
• Freshly ground black pepper

Chop the garlic in a food processor. Add the cilantro and parsley and pulse until coarsely chopped. Add the olive oil, lemon juice, paprika, ground cumin, and 3/4 tsp. salt. Pulse until the sauce has the consistency of rough pesto. Season to taste with salt.

In a large pot fitted with a steamer insert, bring an inch of water to a boil over high heat. Steam the green beans, covered, until just tender, 4 to 7 minutes. Pull the steamer basket from the pot, shake to remove excess water, and transfer the beans to a large serving bowl; cover to keep warm. Add the carrots to the basket and steam, covered, until tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer them to the bowl with the beans.

Toss the vegetables with about three-quarters of the charmoula sauce. Season to taste with more sauce, salt, and pepper.

Honey-Roasted Radishes

Roasting mellows radishes’ sharp bite, as does a touch of honey and delicate white balsamic vinegar. Wilted radish tops add great texture and a pop of color to the dish. Serve with lamb, steak, or pan-roasted trout.

• 1-3/4 lb. radishes (about 2 bunches), tops removed and reserved
• 2 Tbs. honey
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted
• 1 Tbs. white balsamic vinegar
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Position a rack in the center of the oven, set a 12-inch ovenproof skillet (preferably cast iron) on the rack, and heat the oven to 450°F.

Trim the radishes and then halve or quarter them lengthwise, depending on their size. Trim and discard the stems from the tops, wash the leaves thoroughly, and pat dry or dry in a salad spinner.

In a medium bowl, combine the honey, butter, vinegar, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Add the radishes and toss until coated. Transfer to the hot skillet, spread in a single layer, and roast, stirring occasionally, until the radishes are crisp-tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the oven, add the radish leaves, and toss until the leaves are just wilted; serve.

Roasted Medley of Winter Roots

Vary this recipe according to the vegetables in your bin and the number of people you’re feeding. Just be sure to cut the vegetables so they roast at an even rate: Quick-cooking, higher-moisture roots like carrots, turnips, parsnips, and potatoes should be left larger, while dense, slow-cooking types like beets, celeriac, and rutabagas should be cut into smallish chunks. You should have about 1-1/2 to 2 cups each of parsnips, carrots, beets, and turnips. Red beets give the paler vegetables a pretty pink tinge, while golden beets, which are also nice, won’t bleed onto the other vegetables. In place of the butter and oil, you can use all olive oil or all clarified butter.

• 1/2 lb. parsnips, peeled and cut into 2x1/2-inch sticks
• 3 to 4 carrots, peeled and cut into 2x1/2-inch sticks
• 2 medium turnips, peeled and cut into large wedges
• 3 medium beets, peeled and cut into large (3/4-inch) dice
• 10 to 12 cloves garlic
• 12 to 15 small white boiling onions or 1 cup pearl onions (walnut-size), peeled
• 3 sprigs fresh rosemary or thyme
• 3 small bay leaves
• 2-1/2 Tbs. melted unsalted butter
• 1-1/2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oven to 400°F. Dump the vegetables into a large, low-sided roasting pan or onto a heavy, rimmed baking sheet; they should be just one layer deep. Toss in the herbs and drizzle on the butter and oil. Season with salt and pepper and toss to coat the vegetables evenly. Roast, tossing with a spatula a few times, until the vegetables are very tender and browned in spots, about 50 min. Discard the bay leaves. Serve warm.

Baked Sweet Potatoes with Maple-Pecan-Shallot Butter

A generous knob of this mildly sweet butter turns a simple baked potato into a special side.

For the butter:

• 3-1/2 oz. (7 Tbs.) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 2 medium shallots, peeled, halved, and thinly sliced crosswise
• 1/4 cup chopped pecans, toasted and cooled
• 1 Tbs. maple syrup
• 1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme leaves
• Kosher salt

For the potatoes

• 4 medium sweet potatoes of similar size (10 to 12 oz. each), scrubbed and patted dry

Make the butter:

Melt 1 Tbs. of the butter in a medium nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Add the shallots and cook until well browned and slightly crisp, about 6 minutes. Set them aside to cool.

In a small bowl, combine the remaining 6 Tbs. butter with the shallots, pecans, maple syrup, thyme, and 1/8 tsp. salt. Blend together with a spoon or fork until the ingredients are evenly incorporated. Set aside for at least 1 hour at room temperature. (If not using within a few hours, cover and refrigerate. Bring the butter to room temperature before using.)

Bake the potatoes:

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425ºF. Lay the potatoes on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet and bake until the flesh is very tender when pierced with a fork, 50 minutes to 1 hour.

To serve, make a cut along the top of each potato, push on the ends to pry it partially open, and fluff the flesh with a fork. Place a dollop of the maple-pecan-shallot butter inside each potato and pass extra butter at the table, if desired.

Gingery Sautéed Carrots

These carrots have a nice spicy kick, courtesy of the fresh ginger, but a touch of maple syrup mellows them. Try to keep the size of your carrot “sticks” as consistent as possible so they cook at about the same rate; err on the smaller size if you have to.

• 1 Tbs. maple syrup
• 2 tsp. fresh lime juice
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 lb. carrots, trimmed, peeled, and cut into sticks about 4 inches long and 1/3 inch wide (see tip, right)
• Kosher salt
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger

Tip:

To prep the carrots, cut each crosswise into 4-inch lengths and then halve each piece lengthwise. Put each piece on a flat cut side and slice lengthwise 1/3 inch thick.

Combine the maple syrup, lime juice, and 1 Tbs. water in a small dish and set near the stove. Set a shallow serving dish near the stove, too.

In a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan, heat 1 Tbs. of the butter with the olive oil over medium-high heat. When the butter is melted, add the carrots and season with 3/4 tsp. salt. Toss with tongs to coat well. Cook, gently tossing occasionally at first and then more frequently, until most of the carrots are well browned and tender when pierced with a fork, 6 to 9 minutes (if the carrots aren’t fully tender but look like they’re burning, reduce the heat to medium).

Reduce the heat to low, add the remaining 1 Tbs. butter and the ginger and cook, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan with a heatproof rubber spatula, until the butter has melted and the ginger is fragrant, 15 to 20 seconds. Carefully add the maple syrup mixture and cook, stirring, until the liquid reduces to a glazey consistency that coats the carrots, 15 to 20 seconds.

Immediately transfer the carrots to the serving dish, scraping the pan with the spatula to get all of the gingery sauce. Let sit for a few minutes and then serve warm.

Cider-Glazed Turnips & Apples with Sage & Bacon

Braising turnips transforms them into translucent, buttery, tender morsels. I prefer small turnips, but if all you can find are large ones, be sure to peel them thickly (I use a paring knife) or the turnip will be tough and taste bitter. This dish is a perfect accompaniment to roast lamb or pork.

• 1-1/2 lb. small purple-top or white turnips (about 9 small)
• 4 slices bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 cup apple cider
• 2 tsp. granulated sugar
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 large firm, sweet apple such as Pink Lady or Braeburn
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh sage

Peel the turnips and cut them in half lengthwise. Cut each half into wedges 1 inch thick at the widest point.

Put the bacon pieces in a large skillet and set over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels. Pour off the bacon fat from the pan and set the pan back on the burner. Add the butter and, when it’s melted, add the turnips, apple  cider, sugar, and 1-1/2 tsp. salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cover the pan with the lid slightly askew, reduce the heat to medium high, and cook at a steady boil, shaking the pan occasionally, until the turnips are just tender but not soft (a pairing knife should enter a turnip with just a little resistance), 8  to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, peel and core the apple and cut it into 1/2-inch slices.

Uncover the pan, add the sliced apples and sage, and continue to boil, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has reduced to a sticky glaze, 2 to 3 minutes. The turnips should be soft and the apples should be crisp-tender. (If not, add a few tablespoons of water and continue to cook for another 1  to 2  minutes.) Toss in the cooked bacon and season to taste with black pepper and more salt if necessary.

Sweet Potato, Parmesan & Goat Cheese Galette

I prefer to make this galette in a larger (9-1/2-inch) tart pan, though it works in a smaller (7-1/2-inch) one too. I use the same amount of ingredients in either, but I usually get just three layers of potatoes instead of four in the bigger pan. The thinner wedges of galette make an excellent bed for a few slices of roast pork loin, roast turkey, or roast duck.

• 3 Tbs. plus 1/2 tsp. extra virgin olive oil
• 1/4 cup finely chopped shallots
• 1-1/4 lb. sweet potatoes, peeled
• 1 heaping tsp. coarsely chopped fresh thyme leaves
• 3/4 tsp. kosher salt
• 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 3/4 to 1 cup (about 4 oz.) finely crumbled fresh goat cheese (buy a slightly drier, less creamy brand, which is easier to crumble)

Combine the shallots and the 3 Tbs. oil in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce to a low simmer and cook for about 2 minutes, or until the shallots are nicely softened (do not let them brown). Remove from the heat and let cool completely (about 25 minutes at room temperature; cool more quickly in the refrigerator, if you like).

Heat the oven to 400°. Rub the bottom and inside edge of a 9-1/2-inch tart pan with 1/2 tsp. of olive oil or spray with olive-oil spray. Put the tart pan on a rimmed baking sheet lined with foil.

Slice the potatoes as thinly as possible (about 1/16 inch) with a chef’s knife. (Tip: If the potato wobbles, slice a thin sliver off the bottom lengthwise to stabilize it; then continue slicing crosswise.) Discard the ends. Put the potato slices in a mixing bowl, add the shallots and olive oil and the herbs, and toss well to thoroughly coat the potatoes (a small rubber spatula works well).

Cover the bottom of the tart pan with a layer of sweet potato slices, slightly overlapping. Start along the outside edge of the tart pan and, making slightly overlapping rings, move inward until the bottom is covered with one layer of potatoes. Sprinkle some kosher salt (a generous 1/8 tsp.) overall and then sprinkle about a quarter of the Parmigiano and about a quarter of the goat cheese. Arrange another layer of potatoes, season with salt, sprinkle with the cheeses, and repeat two more times, until you have three layers of potatoes. (This is a messy job; you’ll need a damp towel to wipe your hands in between layers.) Top the last layer with more salt and any remaining cheese.

Bake the galette until the top is a deep golden brown (don’t worry if the goat cheese seems very brown) and the potatoes are tender in all places (a fork with thin tines should poke easily through all the layers), 40 to 45 minutes.

Let the galette cool in the pan for 10 to 15 minutes, carefully remove it from the pan, transfer it to a cutting board, and cut it into wedges.