Parsnip Pancakes with Caramelized Onions & Sour Cream

These pancakes are perfect partners for a simple roast like pork, lamb, or chicken. The onions can be cooked ahead and reheated just before serving; the parsnips can also be parcooked, grated, and combined with the chopped leek a few hours ahead. 

• 3 Tbs. olive oil
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 large or 2 small yellow onions, thinly sliced (to yield about 2 cups)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 lb. small to medium parsnips (about 6  medium), peeled (if very thick, halve them lengthwise)
• 1 medium leek, white part only, finely chopped (to yield about 1/2 cup)
• 1 large egg, lightly beaten
• 3 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• Sour cream for garnish

In a medium skillet, heat 1 Tbs. each of the olive oil and butter over medium heat. When the foam subsides, add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until very soft and golden, 20 to 25 minutes; reduce the heat if they brown too quickly. Season with salt to taste and set aside.

Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, bring 2 quarts salted water to a boil. Add the parsnips (cut them in half if they don’t fit in the pan) and cook for 3 minutes. Drain, run under cold water to cool them quickly, and drain again very well. Grate the parsnips in a food processor fitted with a medium grating disk. In a medium bowl, combine the parsnips,  leek, and egg. Stir in the flour, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/8 tsp. pepper.

In a 10-to 12-inch heavy skillet, heat the remaining 2 Tbs. oil and 1 Tbs. butter over medium-high heat until the foam subsides. Shape the parsnip mixture into four equal balls. Put them in the skillet and press on each with a flat spatula to make a cake about 3-1/2 inches wide. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until browned on one side, 4 to 6  minutes. Turn the cakes over and brown the other side, 4 to 5 minutes. Flip to recrisp the first side, about 30 seconds. Drain briefly on paper towels and then serve while hot, garnished with a large dollop of sour cream and the caramelized onions.

Challah

If you like, sprinkle poppy or sesame seeds onto the braid after brushing it with egg wash; both are traditional. To easily measure the honey, first measure the oil in a 1-cup measure. The oil will coat the cup and will let the honey just slip right out.Video:Watch Maggie Glezer braid a loaf of challah step-by-step.

• 2 tsp. instant yeast (Red Star Quick Rise, SAF Perfect Rise, Fleischmann’s Rapid Rise or Fleischmann’s Bread Machine Yeast)
• 16-3/4 oz. (3-1/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour (Hecker’s, Gold Medal, or Pillsbury); more as needed
• 1/4 cup warm water
• 3 large eggs
• 1/4 cup vegetable oil
• 1/4 cup honey
• 1-1/2 tsp. table salt

For the glaze:

• 1 egg, lightly beaten
• Sesame or poppy seeds for sprinkling (optional)

In a large bowl, mix the yeast with 1/2 cup of the flour. Add the warm water, stir, and let this mixture, called a sponge, sit until it starts to puff up, 15-to 20-minutes. Add the eggs, oil, honey, and salt; stir until well combined. The sponge will remain lumpy—this is fine. Add the remaining flour and mix the dough in the bowl until all the ingredients are combined. Turn the dough out onto a work surface and knead until fairly smooth, about 2 minutes. The dough should feel very firm and will be hard to knead. If it’s soft and sticky, add more flour until it’s very firm. Transfer the dough to a large, clean container and cover it well. Let it rise until doubled in bulk and very soft to the touch, about 2 hours, depending on the room temperature. Line an insulated baking sheet with parchment or oiled foil. If you don’t have an insulated sheet, stack two sheets together (this keeps the bottom of the bread from overbrowning during baking).

To shape the dough:

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and sprinkle a little more flour over it. Spread and flatten the dough a bit, but don’t worry about punching it down. Cut it into six equal pieces. Set aside the dough pieces, cover them lightly with plastic, and brush all the flour off the work surface. Have a small bowl of water handy. Using no flour, roll a piece of dough with a rolling pin into a very thin sheet, between 1/8 and 1/4 inch thick (don’t worry about making a rectangle; an amoeba-type shape is fine). The dough may stick to the work surface; this is all right—just nudge it gently with a dough scraper. Tightly roll up the sheet like a carpet to form a strand. Roll the strand back and forth between your hands until it’s thin, very even, and 12 to 15 inches long. At the ends of the strand, angle the outer edge of your hands into the work surface as you’re rolling to make the ends pointy and the strand thicker in the middle (This will help you get a football-shaped loaf). The strand needs to grip the work surface slightly during this rolling; the “grab” will help as you roll. If the strand is too slick, very lightly dampen it with water to help it grip the work surface better. Repeat the rolling out, rolling up, and elongating steps with the remaining five pieces of dough, rolling them out to the same length. Lightly sprinkle all the strands with flour to prevent them from sticking to one another during proofing. Arrange the strands parallel to one another. At one end, gather and pinch the strands very tightly together. Weight the end with a heavy canister to keep the braid from moving and to leave your hands free, and braid closely, following the illustrations below. Lightly tap each end of the loaf with your palms to tuck it under the loaf.

1. Move the second-to-the-right strand to the far-left position.

2. Move the far-right strand left over two strands, to the center position (spread the strands apart to make room).

3. Move the new second-to-the-left strand over to the far right position.

4. Move the far-left strand (the same strand you moved in step 1) over two strands to the center position. Now repeat the steps.

Transfer the braid to the lined baking sheet and cover it loosely but thoroughly with plastic wrap. Let proof until doubled in bulk and the loaf remains indented when lightly pressed, about 2 hours, depending on room temperature. (If in doubt, let the dough proof more rather than less.)

To bake:

Position an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. Just before baking, brush the dough with the beaten egg. Sprinkle with sesame seeds or poppy seeds, if using. With a thin wooden skewer, poke the bread deeply all over (the holes will prevent air pockets and help the bread keep its shape during baking). Bake for 20 minutes. Rotate the challah 180 degrees and bake until the bread is a dark, burnished brown, about another 15 minutes. (If the challah is browning too rapidly cover it loosely with foil and let it finish baking. Don’t remove the loaf too soon, as you’ll risk underbaking.) Let cool thoroughly on a rack.

Crisp Rösti Potatoes

Essentially a giant latke, rösti potatoes are the Swiss version of the classic potato pancake. Serve it topped with smoked salmon, sour cream with chives, or braised Savoy cabbage.

• 1 lb. potatoes (Yukon Golds or russets are best)
• 1-1/2 tsp. salt
• Generous 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 3 Tbs. vegetable or olive oil for frying; more as needed

Peel the potatoes and grate them, using the large holes of a hand grater or a food processor. Put the potatoes in a large bowl, add the salt and pepper, and toss to coat thoroughly. Let the potatoes rest for at least 5 minutes, and then, working with a fistful at a time, squeeze as much liquid as possible out of them and transfer to a second bowl. (The potatoes will start to discolor, but that won’t really affect the final results.)

Large holes mean faster work, better texture. A very finely grated potato could turn mushy during cooking.

You need to get rid of as much liquid as possible, so just squeeze small handfuls at a time.

To make one large rösti—Heat a heavy-based skillet that measures about 8 inches across the base over medium-high heat. Add the oil (it should come to a depth of about 1/8 inch; add more if-necessary.) When the oil begins to ripple and quiver slightly, test it by dropping in a potato shred—it should sizzle enthusiastically. If not, wait a few more seconds. When the temperature is right, take a fistful of potatoes, wring it out once more, and let it fall loosely from your fingers into the center of the pan. (Be careful because the oil will spatter; getting hit by a few tiny droplets is inevitable.)

Fill the pan gradually. Adding just a small amount at a time makes it easier to get an even layer.

Working quickly, repeat until you’ve got enough potatoes in the pan to cover the bottom. With a fork, gently spread out the shreds of potato to make a layer about 1/2 inch thick, trying to distribute them evenly, avoiding dense or thin patches. If there are straggly potatoes around the edges, tuck them in with the fork also so they don’t burn.

Adjust the heat so that you hear a lively sizzle but the bottom isn’t browning too rapidly. Cook until the underside is a deep golden brown and the potatoes on the top are starting to look translucent, 12 to 16 minutes. (Taste a few strands—they should be almost fully cooked and tender.)

If you’re confident enough to just flip the rösti in the pan, go for it—it’s quick and efficient. If you’re not, carefully slide the rösti out of the pan onto a dinner plate and return the pan to the heat. Put another plate on top of the rösti and, holding tightly, flip the plates over. Slide the inverted rösti back into the pan and continue cooking until the new bottom is browned and the potatoes feel really tender in the middle when poked with a knife (try to snitch a few strands from the center and taste them for doneness), another 6 to 8 minutes. Slide the rösti onto a cutting board if you’re serving it immediately, or to a cooling rack to hold it for a few minutes. Blot the top with a paper towel to remove any excess oil. Cut into wedges and serve as soon as possible.

To make individual röstis:

Follow the directions above, but just drop handfuls of potatoes into the pan to create 4-inch rounds that are about 1/4 inch thick. Use a spatula to flip the rounds rather than sliding them onto a plate. Drain these small rösti on paper towels for a few seconds before serving.

Pear Fritters with Lemon and Ginger

Pear, lemon, and ginger are a match made in heaven. These crisp-yet-tender fritters would make an excellent dessert at Hanukkah.

• 2 small firm-ripe pears (preferably Bartlett), peeled, cored, and finely diced
• 1 Tbs. finely grated fresh ginger
• 1/2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
• 1-1/2 cups plus 1 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 2 tsp. plus 1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 3 large egg whites
• 1 cup whole milk
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 6-3/4 oz. (1-1/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 2 to 2-1/2 cups canola oil

In a small bowl, combine the pears, ginger, lemon zest, 1 Tbs. of the sugar, and 1/8 tsp. of the cinnamon. Macerate at room temperature for 15 minutes.


In a medium bowl, whisk the egg whites to soft peaks. In another medium bowl, whisk the milk, 1/2 cup of the sugar, and the vanilla until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is slightly frothy. Whisk in the flour just until combined—it shouldn’t be completely smooth. With a rubber spatula, fold in the egg whites, and then fold in the pear mixture. In a small bowl, mix the remaining 1 cup sugar and 2 tsp. cinnamon.


Pour 1/2 inch of oil into a 10-inch cast-iron skillet with a candy thermometer clipped to the side. Heat over medium-high heat to 350°F. Using 2 tablespoons or a small ice cream scoop, carefully drop a ball of batter into the hot oil. Add 4 or 5 more to the oil, but don’t crowd the pan. Fry until golden-brown, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, turn the fritters over and continue frying until golden-brown and cooked through, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate and drain briefly. Toss in the cinnamon sugar to coat and transfer to a platter. Continue cooking the rest of the fritters in the same manner. Serve hot.

Glazed Roasted Cornish Game Hens with Couscous Stuffing

If you can’t find dried apples for the stuffing, dried plums or cherries are good substitutes.

• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1/2 cup finely minced yellow onion
• 1 cup homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth
• 3/4 cup instant couscous
• 1/2 cup shelled unsalted pistachios, lightly toasted and coarsely chopped
• 1/4 cup dried cranberries
• 1/4 cup chopped dried apricots
• 1/4 cup chopped dried apples
• 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp. ground ginger
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 tsp. salt; more as needed
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 6 Cornish game hens (about 11/2 lb. each), neck and giblets removed and discarded or saved for stock, hens rinsed and patted dry

For the glaze:

• 2 Tbs. melted unsalted butter
• Port-Spice Glaze or Orange-Spice Glaze 

Make the stuffing:

In a small skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onion and cook until soft, 5 to 7 min.; set aside. In a medium saucepan, bring the chicken broth to a boil; remove from the heat. Stir in the couscous, cover, and let sit off heat for 10 min. Fluff the couscous with a fork. Stir in the cooked onion, pistachios, cranberries, apricots, apples, cinnamon, ginger, parsley, salt, and pepper. Set-aside to cool completely.

Stuff the hens:

Heat the oven to 425°F. Season the cavity of each hen with salt and pepper. Make sure the stuffing is thoroughly cool and-pack each hen loosely with about 1/2 cup of stuffing. With kitchen twine, tie each hen’s legs together. Tuck the wings underneath. Arrange the-hens breast side up on a wire rack set in a shallow-roasting pan (or two) filled with 1/4-inch water (this will prevent the glaze drippings from smoking).

Glaze and roast the hens:

Brush the 2 Tbs. melted butter over the hens; season with salt and pepper. Roast the hens for 20 min. Meanwhile, make the glaze, following the instructions at right. Brush the hens generously with the glaze and continue to roast, basting with more glaze every 10 min., until the juices run clear when you prick the thickest part of the thigh and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thigh registers 170°F, another 30 to 35 min. Transfer the hens to a platter, tent with foil, and let stand for 10 min. before serving.

Orange-Hazelnut Olive Oil Cookies

Reminiscent of biscotti in texture, these not-too-sweet cookies are a perfect dipper for after-dinner coffee.

• 2 cups toasted and skinned hazelnuts
• 10 oz. (2-1/4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/4 tsp. table salt
• 3/4 cup plus 2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 large eggs
• Finely grated zest of 2 medium oranges (about 1-1/2 packed Tbs.)
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Tip:

For the best results, measure your flour by weight instead of volume. (1 cup of all-purpose flour equals 4-1/2 oz.) If you don’t have a scale, use a measuring cup meant for dry ingredients, not liquids, and don’t scoop the cup into the flour. Instead, stir the flour to aerate it, spoon it lightly into the cup without packing, and sweep the cup level with a straight edge. Learn why it matters. 

Finely grind the hazelnuts in a food processor. In a medium bowl, whisk the hazelnuts, flour, baking powder, and salt to blend. With a hand mixer or a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the sugar, oil, eggs, zest, and vanilla on low speed until the sugar is moistened, about 15 seconds. Increase the speed to high and mix until well combined, about 15 seconds more (the sugar will not be dissolved at this point). Add the dry ingredients and mix on low speed until the dough has just pulled together, 30 to 60 seconds.

Divide the dough in half. Pile one half of the dough onto a piece of parchment. Using the parchment to help shape the dough, form it into a log 11 inches long and 2 inches in diameter. Wrap the parchment around the log and twist the ends to secure. Repeat with the remaining dough. Chill in the freezer until firm, about 1 hour.

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Line four cookie sheets with parchment or nonstick baking liners.

Unwrap one log of dough at a time and cut the dough into 1/4-inch slices; set them 1 inch apart on the prepared sheets. Bake two sheets at a time until light golden on the bottoms and around the edges, about 10 minutes, rotating and swapping the sheets halfway through for even baking. Let cool completely on racks. The cookies will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.

Potato Pancakes Stuffed with Duxelles

• 2-1/2 lb. russet (Idaho) potatoes (4 medium), peeled, cut in quarters lengthwise and reserved in cold water
• 2-1/2 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• About 3/4 cup corn oil
• 1 medium yellow onion, diced (about 1-1/4 cups)
• 1 large egg
• 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1 recipe Duxelles 
• 2 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh chives

Heat the oven to 250°F.

Set a colander in the sink. Grate the potatoes in a food processor fi tted with a medium (4 mm) grating disc. Transfer the potatoes to the colander and sprinkle with 2 tsp. of the salt. Toss and let the potatoes drain for 10 minutes, tossing occasionally.

Meanwhile, replace the processor’s grating disc with the chopping blade. Add 1 Tbs. of the oil and the onion, egg, flour, baking powder, pepper, and the remaining 1/2 tsp. salt to the food processor bowl.

In batches, squeeze the liquid from the shredded potatoes with your hands. Put the potatoes in the food processor with the other ingredients and process for 10 seconds. Stop the machine, scrape the bowl with a rubber spatula, and process until the mixture is fi nely chopped, 10 to 15 seconds more. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl.

Have ready a large plate lined with paper towels. In a 10-inch skillet, heat 1/8 inch of the remaining oil over medium heat until the surface of the oil shimmers very slightly. With a soupspoon, carefully ladle three or four mounds of the potato mixture into the oil and spread them slightly with the back of the spoon until they are about 3-1/2 inches in diameter. (The oil should be bubbling gently around the pancakes.) On top of each pancake, drop a heaping spoonful of the duxelles and flatten slightly.

Top with an additional spoonful of the potato mixture and flatten gently once again.

With the tip of your spatula, gently coax the sides of the tops and bottoms of the pancakes together.

Cook until the pancakes are a deep golden color, 2 to 3 minutes. Lift the pancakes with a slotted metal spatula and carefully turn them over. Continue to cook until the second side is a deep golden color, about 2 minutes more. Using the spatula, transfer the pancakes to the paper-towel-lined plate and blot well with more paper towels. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Use the spatula to transfer the pancakes to a baking sheet; keep them warm in the oven while you finish the rest. Continue to add oil between batches as needed to maintain the 1/8-inch level of the oil. Serve the pancakes sprinkled with the chives.

Classic Potato Pancakes (Latkes)

• 2-1/2 lb. russet (Idaho) potatoes (4 medium), peeled, cut in quarters lengthwise, and reserved in cold water
• 2-1/2 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• About 3/4 cup corn oil
• 1 medium yellow onion, diced (about 1-1/4 cups)
• 1 large egg
• 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• Sour cream and applesauce, for serving (optional)

Heat the oven to 250°F.

Set a colander in the sink. Grate the potatoes in a food processor fitted with a medium (4 mm) grating disc. Transfer them to the colander and sprinkle with 2 tsp. of the salt. Toss and let drain for 10 minutes, tossing occasionally.

Meanwhile, replace the processor’s grating disc with the chopping blade. Add 1 Tbs. of the oil and the onion, egg, flour, baking powder, pepper, and the remaining 1/2 tsp. salt to the food processor bowl.

In batches, squeeze the liquid from the shredded potatoes with your hands. Put the potatoes in the food processor with the other ingredients and process for 10 seconds. Stop the machine, scrape the bowl with a rubber spatula, and process until the mixture is finely chopped, 10 to 15 seconds more. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl.

Have ready a large plate lined with paper towels. In a 10-inch skillet, heat 1/8 inch of the remaining oil over medium heat until the surface of the oil shimmers very slightly. With a soupspoon, carefully ladle four mounds of the potato mixture into the oil and spread them slightly with the back of the spoon until they are about 3-1/2 inches in diameter. (The oil should be bubbling gently around the pancakes.) Cook until the pancakes are a deep golden color, 2 to 3 minutes. Lift the pancakes with a slotted metal spatula and carefully turn them over. Continue to cook until the second side is a deep golden color, about 2 minutes more. Using the spatula, transfer the pancakes to the paper-towel-lined plate and blot well with more paper towels. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Use the spatula to transfer the pancakes to a baking sheet; keep them warm in the oven while you finish the rest. Continue to add oil between batches as needed to maintain the 1/8-inch level of the oil. Serve with the sour cream and applesauce on the side, if using.

Bite-Size Latkes

Serve these cuties topped with a little applesauce or a dollop of sour cream and some minced chives. Or go luxe and serve them with smoked salmon or even caviar on top. If you like, present the latkes plain with bowls of sour cream and applesauce nearby and let folks garnish the pancakes themselves.

• 4 medium to large russet or Yukon Gold potatoes (2 lb. total), peeled
• 2 large yellow onions (3/4 lb. total)
• 4 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 1/3 cup matzo meal
• 2 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• 10 to 15 grinds black pepper; more to taste
• About 3/4 cup peanut oil
• Applesauce, sour cream, and chopped chives for serving (optional)

Using the medium shredding blade of a food processor, grate the potatoes, laying them horizontally in the feed tube to maximize the strand length. Grate the onions (halve or quarter them first if necessary) on top of the potatoes. The onions will turn to mush, and their juices will help keep the potatoes from turning brown. Pick out any ungrated pieces of potato or onion.

Lay a clean dishtowel inside a large bowl and transfer the grated mixture into the towel. Roll the towel lengthwise and wring out as much liquid as possible (you can do this over the bowl, discarding the liquid, or right over the sink). Depending on the size of the towel (and your muscles), you may have to do this in batches. Transfer the grated mixture to a bowl. Add the eggs, matzo meal, salt, and pepper; mix well.

To form the latkes, scoop up about 2 Tbs. of the mixture with your hands and loosely pat it into a pancake about 1/2 inch thick, leaving a few straggly strands along the edge. (As you work, liquid will accumulate in the bowl, so lightly squeeze out the excess. The last couple of latkes may need a really firm squeeze.) If you like, you can shape all of the mixture ahead of frying; place the cakes on a baking sheet.

When ready to fry, heat a large cast-iron or nonstick skillet with about 1/8 inch of oil and heat over medium high. The oil is hot enough when a piece of potato sizzles when added.

In batches, slip the latkes into the hot oil and flatten gently with the back of a spatula. Fry until deep golden brown, about 3 minutes on each side, to be sure the center is fully cooked. If the edges darken very quickly, lower the heat. To prevent excess oil absorption, flip each latke only once. Add oil between batches as needed, making sure the oil heats up again before frying more latkes. Drain the latkes on paper towels or a clean brown paper bag. Serve immediately with applesauce and sour cream, if you like.

Orange-Hazelnut Olive Oil Cookies

Reminiscent of biscotti in texture, these not-too-sweet cookies are a perfect dipper for after-dinner coffee.

• 2 cups toasted and skinned hazelnuts
• 10 oz. (2-1/4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/4 tsp. table salt
• 3/4 cup plus 2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 large eggs
• Finely grated zest of 2 medium oranges (about 1-1/2 packed Tbs.)
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Tip:

For the best results, measure your flour by weight instead of volume. (1 cup of all-purpose flour equals 4-1/2 oz.) If you don’t have a scale, use a measuring cup meant for dry ingredients, not liquids, and don’t scoop the cup into the flour. Instead, stir the flour to aerate it, spoon it lightly into the cup without packing, and sweep the cup level with a straight edge. Learn why it matters. 

Finely grind the hazelnuts in a food processor. In a medium bowl, whisk the hazelnuts, flour, baking powder, and salt to blend. With a hand mixer or a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the sugar, oil, eggs, zest, and vanilla on low speed until the sugar is moistened, about 15 seconds. Increase the speed to high and mix until well combined, about 15 seconds more (the sugar will not be dissolved at this point). Add the dry ingredients and mix on low speed until the dough has just pulled together, 30 to 60 seconds.

Divide the dough in half. Pile one half of the dough onto a piece of parchment. Using the parchment to help shape the dough, form it into a log 11 inches long and 2 inches in diameter. Wrap the parchment around the log and twist the ends to secure. Repeat with the remaining dough. Chill in the freezer until firm, about 1 hour.

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Line four cookie sheets with parchment or nonstick baking liners.

Unwrap one log of dough at a time and cut the dough into 1/4-inch slices; set them 1 inch apart on the prepared sheets. Bake two sheets at a time until light golden on the bottoms and around the edges, about 10 minutes, rotating and swapping the sheets halfway through for even baking. Let cool completely on racks. The cookies will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.

Whole Wheat Challah with Apricots

As an organic baker specializing in whole grain breads, I often wondered what challah would taste like if made with stone-ground whole wheat flour. This may sound outlandish, considering that challah is the whitest of white breads. But it makes sense if you remember that observant Jews baked and ate this bread hundreds of years ago, before millers began to sift the bran from flour, and all flour was whole wheat. So I went ahead and developed this recipe. Since I was already bucking the norm, I decided to add some chopped apricots to temper the bite of the whole wheat. Instead of braiding the dough, you may divide it and bake it in two greased 9 by 5-inch loaf pans or shape it into a round and bake it on a baking stone. Loaf pan challah is wonderful sliced and battered to make French toast. 

• 8.47 oz. (2 cups) whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
• 7.23 oz. (1-3⁄4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 2-1⁄4 tsp. instant yeast
• 1-1⁄2 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
• 3⁄4 cup room temperature water (70°F to 78°F)
• 3 large eggs, at room temperature
• 1⁄2 cup olive oil
• 1⁄4 cup honey
• 1⁄4 cup finely chopped dried apricots

Combine the whole wheat flour, all-purpose flour, yeast, sea salt, water, 2 of the eggs, olive oil, and honey in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a dough hook. Give the mixture a few turns with a rubber spatula to moisten all of the ingredients, and then knead on medium-high speed until your dough is smooth, 4 to 6 minutes. It will cling to the hook and clear the sides of the bowl. Add the apricots and knead until they’re just incorporated, another minute or two.

Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or dough-rising container, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature until it has doubled in volume, 1-1⁄2 to 2 hours.

Gently press on the dough while it’s still in the bowl to deflate it, and then turn it onto a lightly floured countertop. Divide it into 3 equal portions and, with the palms of your hands, roll each portion into a 15-inch-long rope, just the way you used to roll clay into ropes when you were a kid.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and place the 3 dough ropes side by side on the sheet. Pinch the ropes together at one end, tucking them under the loaf. Braid the ropes together, right over center and then left over center, as tightly as you can, until the ropes are too short to braid. Pinch the ends of the braid together and tuck them under the loaf as you did with the other end.

Dust the loaf lightly with flour, drape with plastic wrap, and let rise at room temperature until almost doubled in volume, 1 to 2 hours (alternatively, refrigerate the covered loaf overnight and bring it to room temperature before letting it rise completely).

Heat the oven to 350°F. Lightly beat the remaining egg and brush it all over the top of the loaf. Bake the challah until the top is deep golden brown and the bottom makes a hollow sound when tapped, about 40 minutes. Transfer the bread to a wire rack to cool completely before slicing and serving. Whole Wheat Challah with Apricots will keep at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 2 days. For longer storage, freeze in a zipper-lock plastic bag for up to 1 month. To defrost, place on the countertop for an hour or two, and reheat in the oven at 350°F for 5 minutes before serving.

Challah

If you like, sprinkle poppy or sesame seeds onto the braid after brushing it with egg wash; both are traditional. To easily measure the honey, first measure the oil in a 1-cup measure. The oil will coat the cup and will let the honey just slip right out.Video:Watch Maggie Glezer braid a loaf of challah step-by-step.

• 2 tsp. instant yeast (Red Star Quick Rise, SAF Perfect Rise, Fleischmann’s Rapid Rise or Fleischmann’s Bread Machine Yeast)
• 16-3/4 oz. (3-1/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour (Hecker’s, Gold Medal, or Pillsbury); more as needed
• 1/4 cup warm water
• 3 large eggs
• 1/4 cup vegetable oil
• 1/4 cup honey
• 1-1/2 tsp. table salt

For the glaze:

• 1 egg, lightly beaten
• Sesame or poppy seeds for sprinkling (optional)

In a large bowl, mix the yeast with 1/2 cup of the flour. Add the warm water, stir, and let this mixture, called a sponge, sit until it starts to puff up, 15-to 20-minutes. Add the eggs, oil, honey, and salt; stir until well combined. The sponge will remain lumpy—this is fine. Add the remaining flour and mix the dough in the bowl until all the ingredients are combined. Turn the dough out onto a work surface and knead until fairly smooth, about 2 minutes. The dough should feel very firm and will be hard to knead. If it’s soft and sticky, add more flour until it’s very firm. Transfer the dough to a large, clean container and cover it well. Let it rise until doubled in bulk and very soft to the touch, about 2 hours, depending on the room temperature. Line an insulated baking sheet with parchment or oiled foil. If you don’t have an insulated sheet, stack two sheets together (this keeps the bottom of the bread from overbrowning during baking).

To shape the dough:

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and sprinkle a little more flour over it. Spread and flatten the dough a bit, but don’t worry about punching it down. Cut it into six equal pieces. Set aside the dough pieces, cover them lightly with plastic, and brush all the flour off the work surface. Have a small bowl of water handy. Using no flour, roll a piece of dough with a rolling pin into a very thin sheet, between 1/8 and 1/4 inch thick (don’t worry about making a rectangle; an amoeba-type shape is fine). The dough may stick to the work surface; this is all right—just nudge it gently with a dough scraper. Tightly roll up the sheet like a carpet to form a strand. Roll the strand back and forth between your hands until it’s thin, very even, and 12 to 15 inches long. At the ends of the strand, angle the outer edge of your hands into the work surface as you’re rolling to make the ends pointy and the strand thicker in the middle (This will help you get a football-shaped loaf). The strand needs to grip the work surface slightly during this rolling; the “grab” will help as you roll. If the strand is too slick, very lightly dampen it with water to help it grip the work surface better. Repeat the rolling out, rolling up, and elongating steps with the remaining five pieces of dough, rolling them out to the same length. Lightly sprinkle all the strands with flour to prevent them from sticking to one another during proofing. Arrange the strands parallel to one another. At one end, gather and pinch the strands very tightly together. Weight the end with a heavy canister to keep the braid from moving and to leave your hands free, and braid closely, following the illustrations below. Lightly tap each end of the loaf with your palms to tuck it under the loaf.

1. Move the second-to-the-right strand to the far-left position.

2. Move the far-right strand left over two strands, to the center position (spread the strands apart to make room).

3. Move the new second-to-the-left strand over to the far right position.

4. Move the far-left strand (the same strand you moved in step 1) over two strands to the center position. Now repeat the steps.

Transfer the braid to the lined baking sheet and cover it loosely but thoroughly with plastic wrap. Let proof until doubled in bulk and the loaf remains indented when lightly pressed, about 2 hours, depending on room temperature. (If in doubt, let the dough proof more rather than less.)

To bake:

Position an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. Just before baking, brush the dough with the beaten egg. Sprinkle with sesame seeds or poppy seeds, if using. With a thin wooden skewer, poke the bread deeply all over (the holes will prevent air pockets and help the bread keep its shape during baking). Bake for 20 minutes. Rotate the challah 180 degrees and bake until the bread is a dark, burnished brown, about another 15 minutes. (If the challah is browning too rapidly cover it loosely with foil and let it finish baking. Don’t remove the loaf too soon, as you’ll risk underbaking.) Let cool thoroughly on a rack.

Savory Vegetable Pancakes

• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1/2 medium yellow onion, finely diced (about 1 cup)  
• 1/4 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into small dice
• 1 cup coarsely grated carrots (from about 2-medium carrots)
• 1/4 cup finely chopped celery (from about 1/2 rib)
• 1 packed cup baby spinach (about 2-1/4 oz.), chopped
• 2 large eggs
• 1/2 cup fresh white breadcrumbs
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black-pepper
• 1/4 cup vegetable oil
• Sour cream, chopped tomato, and fresh cilantro for garnish

Tip:

Try topping the pancakes with different herbs, like parsley or chives, or a cheese like grated smoked Gouda.

In a medium sauté pan, melt the butter over medium heat and sauté the onion, green pepper, carrots, and celery until slightly tender, about 4 minutes. Add the spinach and sauté for 2 minutes. Set aside to cool.

In a medium bowl, beat the eggs and stir in the breadcrumbs. Add the vegetable mixture and mix well. Season with 3/4-tsp. salt and 3 or 4 grinds black pepper, and refrigerate for 5 minutes to let the batter firm up.

Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Working in two batches (three pancakes at a time), use a 1/4-cup measure to transfer the batter to the sauté pan, pressing down on the mixture to form cakes about 4-1/2 inches wide and 1/4 inch thick. Sauté until golden on both sides, about 2 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels, repeat with the remaining batter, and serve with the sour cream, chopped tomato, and cilantro.

Arancini

These classic Italian mozzarella-studded fried rice balls are a tasty way to use up leftover risotto.

• 2 cups cold leftover risotto
• 1 large egg
• 2 cups fine fresh breadcrumbs
• 5 oz. fresh mozzarella, cut into 3/4-inch cubes
• 6 cups vegetable oil, for frying
• Kosher salt

Stir together the risotto and egg until thoroughly combined. Put the breadcrumbs in a shallow bowl. Roll a small handful of risotto into a ball about 1-1/2 inches in diameter, gently push a cube of mozzarella into the center, and reshape the ball, covering the cheese completely. Coat in the breadcrumbs and transfer to a plate. Repeat until all of the risotto is used.

Pour the vegetable oil into a 3-quart saucepan and heat to 350°F over medium-high heat. Working in batches of 5 or 6, fry the arancini, turning occasionally, until browned and heated through, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with salt and serve.

Cheddar-Cayenne Coins

These are fairly spicy, so use the smaller amount of cayenne if you want a milder kick. Pecans or pine nuts would work in place of the walnuts.

• 6 oz. (1-1/3 cups) all-purpose flour
• 3 oz. (about 1-1/4 cups) finely shredded sharp Cheddar (or half Cheddar and half Parmigiano-Reggiano)
• 1 tsp. table salt
• 1/8 to 1/4 tsp. cayenne
• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces, chilled
• 1 large egg yolk
• 2 Tbs. water
• 1-1/2 oz. (1/3 cup) medium finely chopped walnuts
• Kosher salt for sprinkling (optional)

Combine the flour, cheese, salt, and cayenne in a food processor. Process until just blended. Add the butter pieces and pulse until the dough resembles coarse crumbs. Stir the yolk and water together with a fork and drizzle over the mixture. Pulse until the dough begins to form small moist crumbs. Add the chopped nuts and pulse briefly until the crumbs begin to come together.

Pile the moist crumbs on an unfloured work surface. With the heel of your hand, push and gently smear the crumbs away from you until they start to come together in a cohesive dough. Using a pastry scraper or a metal spatula, lift up one edge of the dough and fold it into the center (the dough will still be rough, so don’t expect a neat, smooth fold). Repeat with the opposite edge, like folding a letter. Turn the dough 45 degrees. Give the dough another smearing and shape it into a 14-inch log that’s 1-1/4 inches in diameter. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate until firm, about 4 hours, or up to two days.

Heat the oven to 375°F. Line two large baking sheets with parchment. Using a thin, sharp knife, cut the log into scant 1/4-inch slices. Arrange about 1/2 inch apart on the prepared sheets. Bake until medium to deep golden around the edges, 15 to 20 minutes, rotating the sheets as needed for even baking. If you like, sprinkle the crackers with a little kosher salt just as the baking sheets come out of the oven. Set the sheets on racks to cool. When the coins are completely cool, store them in an airtight container.

Chocolate Babka with Mascarpone

Babka is an Old World Jewish favorite that has become an almost mythical bakery item because it is so difficult to find these days. My grandmother was a great baker who regularly turned out rugelach, mandelbrot, macaroons, and honey cake. She made a fabulous chocolate babka that I remember with a mixture of nostalgia and regret, since I enjoyed it so much but never asked her to teach me how to make it. When I finally got around to coming up with my own babka recipe, I tried to make it just as wonderfully chocolatey and crumbly as hers. Best-quality European chocolate is essential (I use Callebaut). Babka is often made with cream cheese, but I like mascarpone for the hint of nutty flavor that it gives to the dough, but you may use regular cream cheese in its place if it’s more convenient.

• 2⁄3 cup room temperature milk (70°F to 78°F)
• 2 Tbs. mascarpone cheese
• 1 cup sugar
• 2 large eggs
• 2 large egg yolks
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1⁄2 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
• 20 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 Tbs. instant yeast
• 5 oz. (1-1⁄4 sticks) unsalted butter, softened and cut into bits
• 8 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
• 2 Tbs. heavy cream

Combine the milk, mascarpone cheese, 1⁄2 cup of the sugar, eggs, 1 of the egg yolks, vanilla, and salt in the bowl of a standing mixer. Stir with a rubber spatula to combine. Add the flour and yeast and stir a few times until a rough dough forms. Mix on low speed for a few minutes with the dough hook.

With the mixer running, add the butter, 1 piece at a time, until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and knead until it comes together in a sticky but cohesive mass, 4 to 5 minutes.

With the mixer running, add the butter, 1 piece at a time, until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and knead until it comes together in a sticky but cohesive mass, 4 to 5 minutes.

Grease a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan. Combine the chocolate and the remaining 1⁄2 cup sugar in a medium bowl.

Deflate the dough by gently pressing down on it with your palms. Turn it onto a lightly floured countertop and roll it into a rough 16 by 8-inch rectangle, with the long side facing you.

Sprinkle the chocolate and sugar mixture over the dough. Starting with the long side closest to you, roll the dough into a snug log. Pinch the outside edges to seal.

Fold the log in half and twist it once in the center (giving it a shape like an awareness ribbon). Gently place the folded and twisted dough into the prepared pan. Lightly drape with plastic wrap and let rise until increased in volume by 50 percent, 1 to 2 hours (alter-natively, refrigerate the dough overnight and bring to room temperature before letting it rise and baking it).

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly beat the cream and the remaining egg yolk together in a small bowl. Brush the top of the babka with the egg wash. Bake until the top of the babka is deep golden brown and baked through, about 40 minutes. Overturn the loaf onto a wire rack, and re-invert. Let cool completely before slicing and serving. Chocolate Babka will keep at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 3 days. For longer storage, wrap in plastic wrap and then aluminum foil for up to 1 month. To defrost, place on the countertop for several hours, and reheat in the oven at 350°F for 10 minutes before serving.

Latkes

The potato mixture for these ultra-crispy latkes looks loose, but it stays together and forms a golden crust when it hits the hot oil. This recipe can easily be multiplied for a crowd.

• 1 lb. russet potatoes, peeled
• 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped (1/2 cup)
• 1 large egg
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 to 3/4 cup vegetable oil for frying
• Sour cream for serving
• Applesauce for serving

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 200°F. Put a paper-towel-lined rimmed baking sheet on the rack.

Fill a large bowl halfway with cold water. Using the large holes of a box grater, grate the potatoes into the water, or grate onto a cutting board and then immediately put them in the water.

Line a colander with cheesecloth and set it in the sink. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the potatoes to the colander; reserve the bowl of water. Gather the cheesecloth into a bundle and squeeze firmly until the potatoes stop giving off liquid.

Transfer the potatoes to a medium bowl and using your hands, mix in the onion, egg, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Carefully pour off the reserved potato soaking water to get to the white gluey starch on the bottom of the bowl. Transfer the starch to the potato mixture and mix it in with your hands.

Add enough oil to a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet, preferably cast iron, to measure 1/8 inch deep. Heat the oil over medium-high heat until a potato strand dropped in it sizzles vigorously.

Scoop 1/4 cup of the potato mixture onto a slotted metal spatula and use the bottom of the measuring cup to press it until it’s about 1/4 inch thick, letting any excess liquid fall into a small bowl. Don’t worry if the latke is not perfectly round. Slide it into the oil. Make 1 or 2 more latkes for the first batch and fry, flipping once, until they’re golden-brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer to the baking sheet in the oven to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining potato mixture, stirring it between batches. Serve immediately or cool and freeze for up to 1 week and reheat in a single layer, uncovered, in a 300°F oven.

Pot-Roasted Mediterranean Chicken

Part of this dish's bright flavor comes from preserved lemons, which are fresh lemons that have been cured in salt. You can make your own), or buy them in grocery or specialty shops (Haddouch Gourmet Imports—866-445-5566—sells preserved lemons. A 10-oz. jar is $6.95). We like to serve this with couscous mixed with garlic and parsley.

• 3-1/2 lb. whole chicken, rinsed and dried
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 2 sprigs fresh marjoram, 10 inches each, leaves stripped
• 7 sprigs fresh thyme, 4 inches each, leaves stripped
• 6 medium cloves garlic
• 5 Tbs. olive oil
• 1 preserved lemon (or 1 fresh lemon), sliced 1/8-inch thick
• 7 oz. pitted black olives, such as kalamata
• 9 oz. button mushrooms
• 1/2 cup (1-1/2 oz.) sun-dried tomatoes, softened in very hot water
• 1 medium onion, cut into eighths
• 3/4 cup dry white wine

Heat the oven to 425°F. Season the chicken inside and out with salt and pepper. Using a mini food processor, a mortar and pestle, or a knife, mash together the marjoram, thyme, garlic, and 1 Tbs. of the olive oil to form a rough paste.

Slide your fingers between the chicken's skin and flesh to loosen the skin on the breast, thigh, and leg areas. Rub the herb paste onto the flesh under the skin so it's distributed as evenly as possible. Put half of the lemon slices, half of the olives, and one-third of the mushrooms in the cavity. Truss the bird, if you like, and put it, breast side up, in an enameled cast-iron pot or a Dutch oven. Drain the sun-dried tomatoes and arrange them around the chicken. Scatter the onion pieces and the remaining lemon slices, olives, and mushrooms around the chicken as well. Pour the white wine and the remaining 1/4 cup olive oil over the vegetables around the chicken. Roast, basting every 10 min. or so with the pan juices, until an instant-read thermometer in the thigh meat reads 170°F or the juices run clear, 1 to 1-1/4 hours; the vegetables should be tender.

To serve, set the chicken on a carving board and spoon out the vegetables from the cavity. Defat the pan juices and serve as a sauce, if you like. Remove any trussing, carve the bird, and serve on a platter with the lemons, olives, mushrooms, onions, and tomatoes arranged around the chicken.

Grown-Up Applesauce

Vanilla bean and a splash of brandy lift this elegant sauce out of the realm of nursery food. Delicious warm or at room temperature, it’s great as a snack on its own, and it makes a nice filling for a blind-baked pastry shell or for crêpes. Spoon leftovers over French toast. I like to make this sauce with Macouns, or a blend of mostly Braeburns with one or two Golden Delicious.

• 8 apples, peeled, cored and cut into chunks (roughly about 1 inch each)
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 3 Tbs. water
• 1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
• 3 to 4 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1 to 2 Tbs. brandy

Put the apples, butter, and water in a heavy saucepan. Tuck the vanilla bean in among the apples, cover the pan, set it over medium heat, and simmer until the apples are completely tender and have cooked to a rough purée, stirring them gently from time to time, 20 to 25 minutes. Add the sugar, stir, and continue cooking uncovered for a few minutes to let the sugar dissolve. Taste the sauce for sweetness; it should be tart-sweet (this is grown-up applesauce, after all), but if you want it sweeter, add more sugar. Stir in the brandy and simmer a few minutes more to cook off a little of the alcohol. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. I like to leave the vanilla bean in the applesauce to steep; remove it before serving.

Pan-Roasted Duck Breasts with Sherry, Honey & Thyme Sauce

You can dress up this dish by adding a few dried figs, if you like. Trim off the stems and, depending on their size, halve or quarter them. Soak the figs in the sherry for 10 minutes and then drain them, reserving the sherry. Add the sherry as directed and add the figs to the sauce along with the broth.

• 4 boneless skin-on duck breast halves (about 2 lb. total)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup dry sherry
• 1/4 cup sherry vinegar
• 1/2 cup homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth
• 2 tsp. honey
• 1 tsp. lightly chopped fresh thyme
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter

Heat the oven to 425ºF. Rinse the duck breasts and pat dry. Trim any silverskin from the meat side of the breasts. Scrape the tendon out of the tender, if it’s still attached, and pat the tender back in place. Trim the edges of the skin so there’s about 1/4 inch overhang . With a sharp chef’s or boning knife, score the skin in a 1/2-inch crosshatch pattern . Try to cut only through the skin and not into the meat. Season the breasts on both sides with salt and pepper.

Heat a large ovenproof sauté pan or skillet (don’t use nonstick) over medium-high heat for 1 minute. Put the duck in the pan, skin side down, and let it sear. As fat collects in the pan, spoon it off once or twice . When the skin turns medium brown, after about 6 minutes, reduce the heat to medium. Continue to cook until much of the fat is rendered from the duck and the skin looks crisp and deep golden brown, another 2 to 4 minutes.

Flip the breasts skin side up, spoon off any remaining fat, and put the pan in the oven. Roast until the duck is cooked to your liking: 3 to 4 minutes for medium rare and 5 to 6 minutes for medium well. To check for doneness, cut into a breast or use an instantread thermometer: 135°F for medium rare, 155°F for medium well.

Transfer the duck to a plate or platter and tent with foil to keep warm. Set the pan on mediumhigh heat and pour in the sherry and sherry vinegar. Immediately scrape the pan with a wooden spoon to release any cooked-on bits. Boil until the liquid has reduced to about 2 Tbs., about 3 minutes. Add the broth, honey, thyme, and 1/4 tsp. salt. Boil until the liquid is reduced by about half, about 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and blend the butter into the sauce by consisteantly stirring or swirling the pan. Slice the duck thinly on an angle, arrange it on heated plates, and spoon the sauce over or around it. Serve right away.