Butter-Rum Pudding Cakes

• Softened butter for the ramekins
• 2 oz. (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
• 2/3 cup packed dark brown sugar
•  3 large eggs, separated, at room temperature
• 1-1/8 oz. (1/4 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1/4 plus 1/8 tsp. table salt
• 1-1/3 cups plus 1 Tbs. whole milk, at room temperature
• 3 Tbs. good-quality light rum (this is an adult amount; reduce the rum to 2 tablespoons and increase the milk by 1 Tbs. for a kid-friendly version)
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• Lightly sweetened whipped cream for serving (optional)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Butter eight 6-ounce ceramic ovennproof ramekins or Pyrex custard cups and arrange them in a baking dish or roasting pan (a 10x15-inch or two 8x8-inch Pyrex dishes work well).

In a large bowl, whisk the melted butter with the brown sugar and egg yolks until smooth, about 1 min. Add the flour and salt and pour in just enough milk to whisk the flour smoothly into the egg yolk mixture. Then whisk in the remaining milk, along with the rum and vanilla, until smooth. The mixture will be very fluid.

Put the egg whites in a large bowl. Beat with an electric mixer (a hand-held or a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment) at medium speed until the egg whites begin to foam, 30 to 60 seconds. Increase the speed to high and beat just until the egg whites hold soft peaks when the beater is pulled away from the whites, another 1 to 2  min. Reduce the mixer speed to medium. With the mixer running, very slowly sprinkle in the granulated sugar; this should take about a minute. Stop the mixer and scrape the bowl. Beat on high speed until the whites hold medium-firm peaks when the beater is pulled away, about another 30 seconds.

Scrape one-third of the egg whites onto the egg yolk mixture and whisk until combined. Gently incorporate the remaining egg whites evenly into the batter, using the whisk in a folding/stirring motion. The batter will still be thin.

Portion the mixture evenly among the ramekins; the cakes don’t rise much, so you can fill the ramekins to within 1/8 inch of the top. Pull out the oven rack and put the baking dish full of ramekins on the rack. Pour warm water into the dish to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until the tops of the cakes are light golden and slightly puffed and, when touched with a finger, they should feel spongy and spring back a bit but hold a shallow indentation, 25 to 30 min. Using tongs, carefully transfer the ramekins from the water bath to a rack. Let cool to room temperature and then refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours before serving, with whipped cream if you  like.

Butterflake Rolls

A super buttery dough gives these rolls wonderful flavor, but what makes them irresisitible is the way they separate into fluffy layers as they bake. A must-have for Thanksgiving or Christmas Dinner.

For the dough

• 1-1/2 cups whole milk; more as needed
• 1 packet (1/4 oz. or 2-1/4 tsp.) instant or active dry yeast
• 1/4 cup vegetable oil; more as needed
• 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1 lb. 7 oz. (5-1/4 cups) unbleached bread flour; more as needed
• 1-1/4 tsp. table salt or 2 tsp. kosher salt
• 1 large egg

For shaping and baking

• Vegetable oil spray
• 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted

Make the dough

In a small saucepan, heat the milk until lukewarm (about 95°F). Remove from the heat and whisk in the yeast until it dissolves. Add the oil and butter—the butter may begin to melt, but it’s OK if it doesn’t melt completely—and then whisk in the sugar. Let rest until the yeast just begins to float to the surface, about 5 minutes.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl), combine the flour, salt, and egg. Add the yeast mixture and mix on low speed (or with a large spoon) until a coarse ball of dough forms, about 1 minute. Let rest for 5 minutes.

Replace the paddle attachment with the dough hook and mix on medium-low speed (or knead by hand on a lightly oiled work surface) until the dough feels soft, supple, and pliable, about 3 minutes; it should feel tacky to the touch, but not sticky, and pull away from your finger when poked instead of sticking to it. If the dough is too sticky, add 1 Tbs. flour at a time, kneading to incorporate. If it’s stiff, knead in 1 Tbs. of milk at a time.

Rub a little vegetable oil on a work surface to create an 8-inch circle and put the dough on this spot. Stretch and fold the dough over itself from all four sides to the center, crimping it where the folded ends meet, to form it into a tight, round ball.

Put the dough seam side down in a lightly oiled bowl that’s twice the size of the dough. Tightly cover with plastic wrap. Let sit at room temperature until doubled in size, about 90 minutes.

Shape the rolls

Mist two 12-cup muffin tins with vegetable oil spray.

With a bench knife, divide the dough into 24 pieces, about 2 oz. each. Wipe the work surface with a damp towel or mist lightly with vegetable oil spray (don’t use flour). Form your hand into a cup by curling your fingers slightly, with your thumb snug against your index finger. Use this cupped hand to press and rotate a piece of dough as if you were trying to screw it through the dampened work surface. It should form a smooth round ball within 5 seconds and pop up into your cupped hand.

Using kitchen shears, cut through the top center of the roll, almost all the way through, leaving about 1/4-inch of dough at the bottom to hold the two halves together. Cut one of the halves twice more at 1/2-inch intervals parallel to the first cut. Repeat these cuts on the other half for a total of six sections, each about 1/2-inch wide. Place the dough, cut side up, into the prepared muffin pan. Brush the melted butter over the top and down into the cuts. Repeat with the remaining dough, placing 12 rolls into each muffin pan.

Mist the top of the rolls with vegetable oil spray and cover the pans loosely with plastic wrap. Allow the rolls to proof at room temperature until they nearly double in size, 60 to 90 minutes. The time vary depending on the temperature of the room and the dough; if you made the dough ahead and refrigerated it, the cold dough will take longer to proof. 

Position the oven racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. If using a convection oven, heat the oven to 350°F; if using a conventional oven, heat the oven to 375°F. Bake the rolls for 7 minutes. Rotate the tins 180 degrees and swap their placement on the racks. Continue baking until the rolls turn rich golden-brown on top, 7 to 9 minutes more. Let the rolls cool for 5 minutes before removing them from the tin.

Strawberry-Peppercorn Butter

This sweet and savory butter is great on toast, biscuits, waffles, or scones. Multicolored peppercorns add some extra color and have a mellower flavor than black peppercorns, but black will work, too.

• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) room-temperature salted butter
• 1/4 cup finely chopped strawberries
• 1/2 tsp. coarsely cracked multicolored peppercorns
• 1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter on high until light and fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes. Lower the speed to medium and beat in the strawberries, peppercorns, and thyme until just incorporated, about 30 seconds.

Multi-Purpose Baking Mix

This wonderful make-ahead baking mix can be used for all kinds of yummy things, such as Herbed Cheese Buttermilk Biscuits, Blueberry Scones, Shortcake Biscuits, and Fruit Cobbler. You can make up to twelve times this recipe, but store each batch in a separate bag in the fridge (for up to a week) or in the freezer (for up to six months). Frozen mix should sit at room temperature until the butter is pliable, about 5 minutes.

• 13-1/2 oz. (3 cups) all-purpose flour
• 1 Tbs. sugar
• 1 Tbs. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. baking soda
• 1 tsp. salt
• 6 oz. (12 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut in small pieces

In a large bowl, stir the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Cut or massage the butter into the flour with a fork, a pastry cutter, or your fingers until the mixture looks like cornmeal and the biggest pieces of butter are the size of large peas. (You can also do this in a food processor; just be sure not to overmix.) Proceed with Herbed Cheese Buttermilk Biscuits, Blueberry Scones, Shortcake Biscuits, or Fruit Cobbler, or refrigerate or freeze the mixture until ready to use.

Knotted Dinner Rolls

Soft, rich, and worlds better than store-bought, these gorgeous, buttery dinner rolls are easier to make than you may think. In fact, describing how to shape them is more difficult than actually doing it. Look here for step-by-step photos for shaping them or watch our video on shaping and baking these dinner rolls, as well as Cloverleaf, Parker House, and Butterflake, all made with this same dough.

For the dough

• 1-1/2 cups whole milk; more as needed
• 1 packet (1/4 oz. or 2-1/4 tsp.) instant or active dry yeast
• 1/4 cup vegetable oil; more as needed
• 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1 lb. 7 oz. (5-1/4 cups) unbleached bread flour; more as needed
• 1-1/4 tsp. table salt or 2 tsp. kosher salt
• 1 large egg

For shaping and baking

• Vegetable oil spray
• 1 large egg
• Poppy or sesame seeds for garnish (optional)

Make the dough

In a small saucepan, heat the milk until lukewarm (about 95°F). Remove from the heat and whisk in the yeast until it dissolves. Add the oil and butter—the butter may begin to melt, but it’s OK if it doesn’t melt completely—and then whisk in the sugar. Let rest until the yeast just begins to float to the surface, about 5 minutes.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl), combine the flour, salt, and egg. Add the yeast mixture and mix on low speed (or with a large spoon) until a coarse ball of dough forms, about 1 minute. Let rest for 5 minutes.

Replace the paddle attachment with the dough hook and mix on medium-low speed (or knead by hand on a lightly oiled work surface) until the dough feels soft, supple, and pliable, about 3 minutes; it should feel tacky to the touch, but not sticky, and pull away from your finger when poked instead of sticking to it. If the dough is too sticky, add 1 Tbs. flour at a time, kneading to incorporate. If it’s stiff, knead in 1 Tbs. of milk at a time.

Rub a little vegetable oil on a work surface to create an 8-inch circle and put the dough on this spot. Stretch and fold the dough over itself from all four sides to the center, crimping it where the folded ends meet, to form it into a tight, round ball.

Put the dough seam side down in a lightly oiled bowl that’s twice the size of the dough. Tightly cover with plastic wrap. Let sit at room temperature until doubled in size, about 90 minutes.

Shape the rolls

Tip:

Need help shaping your rolls? Check out our step-by-step guide on how to shape knotted dinner rolls.

Line two 13x18-inch rimmed baking sheets with parchment or nonstick baking liners and lightly mist them with vegetable oil spray.

Using a bench knife, divide the dough into eighteen pieces (about 2-1/4 oz. each).

With your hands, roll one piece into a 12-inch-long rope. If the dough starts to stick, mist your work surface lightly with vegetable oil spray or wipe it with a damp towel. Don’t use flour.

Wrap the dough around your fingers into a loose knot; there should be about 2 inches of dough free at each end. Wrap the left end of the dough up and over the loop. Wrap the right end down and under the loop. Lightly squeeze the two ends of dough together in the center to secure them.

Gently squeeze the whole piece of dough into a nice rounded shape. Put the roll, pretty side up, on a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough. Mist the top of the rolls with vegetable oil spray and cover loosely with plastic wrap.

Let the rolls sit at room temperature or refrigerated until they just begin to swell, 30 minutes to 1 hour for room-temperature dough, 1 to 1-1/2 hours for refrigerated dough.

Bake the rolls

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. If using a convection oven, heat it to 375°F; if using a conventional oven, heat it to 400°F.

Thoroughly whisk the egg with 1 Tbs. water and brush all over each roll. Sprinkle poppy or sesame seeds (if using) on the rolls.

While the oven heats, let the rolls continue to rise at room temperature, 20 to 40 minutes. They should be 1-1/2 to 2 times their original size before they go in the oven. (Once in the oven, they will rise about 20 percent more.)

Put the baking sheets in the oven and bake for 6 minutes. Rotate the sheets 180 degrees and swap their placement on the racks. Continue baking until the rolls turn rich golden-brown on top and develop some browning underneath, another 6 to 8 minutes. Let the rolls cool on the sheets or on a cooling rack for 15 minutes before serving.

Roquefort Butter

This flavored butter is terrific on grilled rib-eye as well as other steaks.

• 1/2 lb. (1 cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 2 shallots, thinly sliced (about 2/3 cup)
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1/4 lb. Roquefort cheese, crumbled
• 1 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
• 1 Tbs. good-quality red-wine vinegar
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Melt 1 Tbs. of the butter in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook until the shallots are soft, about 5 minutes. Set aside to cool. Meanwhile, using a mixer or a wooden spoon, beat the remaining butter until soft and creamy. Scrape the butter off the beaters or spoon. Add the cooled shallots and garlic, Roquefort, thyme, and vinegar to the butter and mix with a rubber spatula. Season with salt and pepper. Taste again for balance, adding a drop more vinegar or a dash more salt if necessary.

This butter mixture, called a compound butter, can be stored in a covered plastic container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. For longer storage, wrap the butter in plastic wrap or waxed paper, roll into a log 2 inches in diameter, and freeze for up to 2 months.

Chocolate Babka with Mascarpone

Babka is an Old World Jewish favorite that has become an almost mythical bakery item because it is so difficult to find these days. My grandmother was a great baker who regularly turned out rugelach, mandelbrot, macaroons, and honey cake. She made a fabulous chocolate babka that I remember with a mixture of nostalgia and regret, since I enjoyed it so much but never asked her to teach me how to make it. When I finally got around to coming up with my own babka recipe, I tried to make it just as wonderfully chocolatey and crumbly as hers. Best-quality European chocolate is essential (I use Callebaut). Babka is often made with cream cheese, but I like mascarpone for the hint of nutty flavor that it gives to the dough, but you may use regular cream cheese in its place if it’s more convenient.

• 2⁄3 cup room temperature milk (70°F to 78°F)
• 2 Tbs. mascarpone cheese
• 1 cup sugar
• 2 large eggs
• 2 large egg yolks
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1⁄2 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
• 20 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 Tbs. instant yeast
• 5 oz. (1-1⁄4 sticks) unsalted butter, softened and cut into bits
• 8 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
• 2 Tbs. heavy cream

Combine the milk, mascarpone cheese, 1⁄2 cup of the sugar, eggs, 1 of the egg yolks, vanilla, and salt in the bowl of a standing mixer. Stir with a rubber spatula to combine. Add the flour and yeast and stir a few times until a rough dough forms. Mix on low speed for a few minutes with the dough hook.

With the mixer running, add the butter, 1 piece at a time, until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and knead until it comes together in a sticky but cohesive mass, 4 to 5 minutes.

With the mixer running, add the butter, 1 piece at a time, until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and knead until it comes together in a sticky but cohesive mass, 4 to 5 minutes.

Grease a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan. Combine the chocolate and the remaining 1⁄2 cup sugar in a medium bowl.

Deflate the dough by gently pressing down on it with your palms. Turn it onto a lightly floured countertop and roll it into a rough 16 by 8-inch rectangle, with the long side facing you.

Sprinkle the chocolate and sugar mixture over the dough. Starting with the long side closest to you, roll the dough into a snug log. Pinch the outside edges to seal.

Fold the log in half and twist it once in the center (giving it a shape like an awareness ribbon). Gently place the folded and twisted dough into the prepared pan. Lightly drape with plastic wrap and let rise until increased in volume by 50 percent, 1 to 2 hours (alter-natively, refrigerate the dough overnight and bring to room temperature before letting it rise and baking it).

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly beat the cream and the remaining egg yolk together in a small bowl. Brush the top of the babka with the egg wash. Bake until the top of the babka is deep golden brown and baked through, about 40 minutes. Overturn the loaf onto a wire rack, and re-invert. Let cool completely before slicing and serving. Chocolate Babka will keep at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 3 days. For longer storage, wrap in plastic wrap and then aluminum foil for up to 1 month. To defrost, place on the countertop for several hours, and reheat in the oven at 350°F for 10 minutes before serving.

Lemon-Herb Butter

This butter goes nicely with delicate flavors like chicken or fish or with stir-fried vegetables like asparagus or green beans.

• 1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened to room temperature
• 1/4 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
• 2 Tbs. finely diced shallots
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme
• 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary
• Finely grated zest of 1 lemon plus 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
• 1/4 tsp. kosher salt
• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Combine all of the ingredients in a small bowl and mash together with a fork or wooden spoon until the mixture is well combined (or pulse in a food processor). Shape into a log in plastic wrap, parchment, or waxed paper (tightening the ends as if it were a sausage) and refrigerate for up to two weeks or freeze for up to three months.

Herb Butter

A pat of this herb butter enhances grilled seafood, chicken, or steak. Try adding it to rice, pasta, and soups. For the most flavor, mash in as much of the herbs as the butter will hold. Any tender herb is appropriate. Wrap the butter tightly in plastic so it doesn't absorb odors.

• 1 lb. unsalted butter, cut into pieces and softened to room temperature
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
• 4 cups assorted fresh tender herb leaves (choose from tarragon, thyme, parsley, basil, dill, chives, marjoram, chervil)

In a food processor, combine the butter, salt, and pepper. Process until you get a creamy paste, scraping down the sides as necessary, and then add the lemon juice and process until creamy. Add the herb leaves and process again until well blended. Shape into 2 logs in parchment or waxed paper, roll tightly, wrap well in plastic, and chill (or freeze for up to 3 months). Cut off a slice and lay it on the hot food just before serving.

Caramelized Shallot Butter

For a taste of France, toss a knob of this butter with roasted vegetables as soon as they come out of the oven. It's especially nice on roasted asparagus, Brussels sprouts, butternut squash, carrots, fennel, green beans, mushrooms, parsnips, potatoes, and sweet potatoes.

• 3-1/2 Tbs. unsalted butter, softened
• 1 large shallot, finely diced (1/3 cup)
• 1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• 1/2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat 1 Tbs. of the butter in a small saucepan or skillet over medium-low heat until melted. Add the shallot and cook, stirring frequently, until deeply browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the thyme. Cool completely.

In a small bowl, combine the shallot mixture with the remaining 2-1/2 Tbs. butter and the lemon zest. Stir to blend well. Lightly season to taste with salt and pepper.

Scrape the butter onto a small piece of plastic wrap, mold into a log shape, and wrap in the plastic. Refrigerate until ready to use. Toss about one-third of the butter (a generous tablespoon) with a batch of vegetables after roasting.

Orzo with Brown Butter and Parmesan

This little black dress of a side dish pairs with practically anything—grilled meat, roasted chicken, sautéed vegetables. Like rice pilaf, the orzo is browned in butter before broth is added, which gives it a rich, nutty flavor.

• 1-1/2 cups lower-salt chicken broth
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 cup orzo
• 1/3 cup dry white wine
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• Thinly sliced fresh chives (optional)

In a 1- to 2-quart saucepan, bring the chicken broth and 1/2 cup water to a simmer over medium-high heat.

In a 3-quart heavy-duty saucepan, cook the butter over medium heat, swirling the pan occasionally, until the butter turns goldenbrown and smells nutty, about 2 minutes. Add the orzo and stir with a wooden spoon to coat well. Cook until the orzo just begins to turn a light golden color, about 2 minutes.

Pour in the wine and stir until absorbed, about 1 minute. Add the simmering broth mixture, stir, cover, and reduce the heat to low. Cook until the orzo is just tender, about 12 minutes; the mixture may still be wet but will set up.

Stir the orzo, season to taste with salt and a generous amount of pepper, and mix in the Parmigiano. Cover and let rest 5 minutes. Add the chives (if using) and serve.

Maple Butter

Thanks to John Stockin of Lyonsville Sugarhouse in Accord, New York, for sharing his recipe. Spread this maple butter on scones or toast, stir into hot cereal, slather on pancakes, or just lick it off a spoon. Grade A medium works better in this recipe than darker syrups.

• 1/2 lb. unsalted butter, cut into chunks and frozen
• 1-1/2 cups grade A medium maple syrup
• 1/4 tsp. kosher salt

Test the accuracy of your candy thermometer by putting it in a small pot of boiling water. If it doesn’t read exactly 212°F, factor in the difference in the next step.

Set the frozen chunks of butter beside the stove. Put the syrup in a 3-quart or larger stainless-steel saucepan and rub the inside rim with a bit of butter to prevent boilovers. Boil the syrup over medium heat without stirring until a candy thermometer registers 234°F (or the recalculated temperature, if your thermometer is off), 8 to 10 min. once the syrup boils; tilt the pan so the syrup covers the thermometer bulb to get an accurate reading.

Take the pot off the heat and add the butter and salt, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until the butter melts completely. Pour the syrup into the bowl of a stand mixer. Beat with the paddle attachment on medium-high speed until it’s cool, lighter in color, and creamy, 5 to 10 min. Pour the maple butter into jars or plastic containers, seal, and refrigerate. It will thicken as it cools and might get a little grainy. It lasts in the fridge or freezer as long as plain butter.

Multi-Purpose Baking Mix

This wonderful make-ahead baking mix can be used for all kinds of yummy things, such as Herbed Cheese Buttermilk Biscuits, Blueberry Scones, Shortcake Biscuits, and Fruit Cobbler. You can make up to twelve times this recipe, but store each batch in a separate bag in the fridge (for up to a week) or in the freezer (for up to six months). Frozen mix should sit at room temperature until the butter is pliable, about 5 minutes.

• 13-1/2 oz. (3 cups) all-purpose flour
• 1 Tbs. sugar
• 1 Tbs. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. baking soda
• 1 tsp. salt
• 6 oz. (12 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut in small pieces

In a large bowl, stir the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Cut or massage the butter into the flour with a fork, a pastry cutter, or your fingers until the mixture looks like cornmeal and the biggest pieces of butter are the size of large peas. (You can also do this in a food processor; just be sure not to overmix.) Proceed with Herbed Cheese Buttermilk Biscuits, Blueberry Scones, Shortcake Biscuits, or Fruit Cobbler, or refrigerate or freeze the mixture until ready to use.

Classic Shortbread Cookies

• 8 oz. (1 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 tsp. table salt
• 10 oz. (2-1/4 cups) all-purpose flour

Tip:

For the best results, measure your flour by weight instead of volume. (1 cup of all-purpose flour equals 4-1/2 oz.) If you don’t have a scale, be sure to use the proper technique when filling your measuring cups.

Line two baking sheets with parchment. Combine the butter, sugar, and salt in a stand mixer bowl (use the paddle attachment) or a large mixing bowl. Mix on low speed until the butter combines with the sugar but isn't perfectly smooth, 1 to 2 min. Add the flour and mix on low speed, scraping the bowl frequently, until the dough has just about pulled together, about 3 minutes; don't overmix.

Roll: On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough to about 1/4 inch thick. Aim for a uniform thickness to ensure even baking.

Cut: Cut the dough into bars or squares with a sharp knife or, using cookie cutters, cut out shapes as close to one another as possible. Press the scraps together, roll them out, and cut out more cookies. If the dough becomes sticky, refrigerate it briefly. Arrange the cookies on two parchment-lined baking sheets and refrigerate until chilled, at least 20 min.

Bake: Position oven racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and heat the oven to 300°F. Bake the cookies until golden on the bottom and edges and pale to golden on top, 30 minutes to 1 hour. (After 15 min., swap the position of the baking sheets and rotate them 180 degrees for even baking.) If the cookies are done before 30 min., reduce the oven temperature to 275°F for the remaining batches; if they take longer than 1 hour, increase the temperature to 325°F.

New York Steaks with Martini Butter

Top a simple steak, pork chop, or chicken breast with a compound (flavored) butter, and an average dish turns into an exceptional one. 

• 4 9- to 10-oz. boneless beef strip steaks, about 1 inch thick, trimmed of excess fat
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 cup drained pimiento-stuffed Spanish olives (martini olives), plus 4 olives, sliced, for garnish
• 2 Tbs. gin or vodka
• 1 Tbs. dry vermouth
• 2 tsp. Dijon mustard
• 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened

Generously season both sides of the steaks with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a 14-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering hot (if you don’t have a 14-inch skillet, divide the oil between two 10-inch skillets). Add the steaks and cook to your desired doneness, about 4 minutes per side for medium rare (130°F to 135°F).

Meanwhile, in a food processor, combine the 1/4 cup olives, gin or vodka, vermouth, mustard, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and pulse to coarsely chop. Add the butter and pulse to combine, scraping down the bowl as necessary.

Transfer the steaks to a platter or plates and divide the martini butter evenly among the steaks, letting it melt a bit.

Garnish with the sliced olives and serve.

Spiced Butter

A pat of this versatile make-ahead butter is great on morning toast, buttermilk pancakes, French toast, oatmeal, waffles, and scones. Or try using it to top off hot cider, hot buttered rum, or mulled wine. Even steaming cups of tea spiked with bourbon become mellow with a pat of this delicious butter.

• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, completely softened at room temperature
• 1/4 cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted
• 1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
• 1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1/8 tsp. ground cloves

With a wooden spoon, cream the butter until smooth. Sift the confectioners’ sugar over the butter and add the spices; mix just until blended. Transfer to a square of plastic wrap. Using the plastic to help shape the butter, wrap and mold the mixture into a log about 1 inch in diameter. Chill until firm, at least 30 minutes. Slice as needed into 1/4 rounds.

Caramelized Shallot Butter

For a taste of France, toss a knob of this butter with roasted vegetables as soon as they come out of the oven. It's especially nice on roasted asparagus, Brussels sprouts, butternut squash, carrots, fennel, green beans, mushrooms, parsnips, potatoes, and sweet potatoes.

• 3-1/2 Tbs. unsalted butter, softened
• 1 large shallot, finely diced (1/3 cup)
• 1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• 1/2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat 1 Tbs. of the butter in a small saucepan or skillet over medium-low heat until melted. Add the shallot and cook, stirring frequently, until deeply browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the thyme. Cool completely.

In a small bowl, combine the shallot mixture with the remaining 2-1/2 Tbs. butter and the lemon zest. Stir to blend well. Lightly season to taste with salt and pepper.

Scrape the butter onto a small piece of plastic wrap, mold into a log shape, and wrap in the plastic. Refrigerate until ready to use. Toss about one-third of the butter (a generous tablespoon) with a batch of vegetables after roasting.

Butter-Rum Pudding Cakes

• Softened butter for the ramekins
• 2 oz. (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
• 2/3 cup packed dark brown sugar
•  3 large eggs, separated, at room temperature
• 1-1/8 oz. (1/4 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1/4 plus 1/8 tsp. table salt
• 1-1/3 cups plus 1 Tbs. whole milk, at room temperature
• 3 Tbs. good-quality light rum (this is an adult amount; reduce the rum to 2 tablespoons and increase the milk by 1 Tbs. for a kid-friendly version)
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• Lightly sweetened whipped cream for serving (optional)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Butter eight 6-ounce ceramic ovennproof ramekins or Pyrex custard cups and arrange them in a baking dish or roasting pan (a 10x15-inch or two 8x8-inch Pyrex dishes work well).

In a large bowl, whisk the melted butter with the brown sugar and egg yolks until smooth, about 1 min. Add the flour and salt and pour in just enough milk to whisk the flour smoothly into the egg yolk mixture. Then whisk in the remaining milk, along with the rum and vanilla, until smooth. The mixture will be very fluid.

Put the egg whites in a large bowl. Beat with an electric mixer (a hand-held or a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment) at medium speed until the egg whites begin to foam, 30 to 60 seconds. Increase the speed to high and beat just until the egg whites hold soft peaks when the beater is pulled away from the whites, another 1 to 2  min. Reduce the mixer speed to medium. With the mixer running, very slowly sprinkle in the granulated sugar; this should take about a minute. Stop the mixer and scrape the bowl. Beat on high speed until the whites hold medium-firm peaks when the beater is pulled away, about another 30 seconds.

Scrape one-third of the egg whites onto the egg yolk mixture and whisk until combined. Gently incorporate the remaining egg whites evenly into the batter, using the whisk in a folding/stirring motion. The batter will still be thin.

Portion the mixture evenly among the ramekins; the cakes don’t rise much, so you can fill the ramekins to within 1/8 inch of the top. Pull out the oven rack and put the baking dish full of ramekins on the rack. Pour warm water into the dish to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until the tops of the cakes are light golden and slightly puffed and, when touched with a finger, they should feel spongy and spring back a bit but hold a shallow indentation, 25 to 30 min. Using tongs, carefully transfer the ramekins from the water bath to a rack. Let cool to room temperature and then refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours before serving, with whipped cream if you  like.

Butterflake Rolls

A super buttery dough gives these rolls wonderful flavor, but what makes them irresisitible is the way they separate into fluffy layers as they bake. A must-have for Thanksgiving or Christmas Dinner.

For the dough

• 1-1/2 cups whole milk; more as needed
• 1 packet (1/4 oz. or 2-1/4 tsp.) instant or active dry yeast
• 1/4 cup vegetable oil; more as needed
• 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1 lb. 7 oz. (5-1/4 cups) unbleached bread flour; more as needed
• 1-1/4 tsp. table salt or 2 tsp. kosher salt
• 1 large egg

For shaping and baking

• Vegetable oil spray
• 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted

Make the dough

In a small saucepan, heat the milk until lukewarm (about 95°F). Remove from the heat and whisk in the yeast until it dissolves. Add the oil and butter—the butter may begin to melt, but it’s OK if it doesn’t melt completely—and then whisk in the sugar. Let rest until the yeast just begins to float to the surface, about 5 minutes.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl), combine the flour, salt, and egg. Add the yeast mixture and mix on low speed (or with a large spoon) until a coarse ball of dough forms, about 1 minute. Let rest for 5 minutes.

Replace the paddle attachment with the dough hook and mix on medium-low speed (or knead by hand on a lightly oiled work surface) until the dough feels soft, supple, and pliable, about 3 minutes; it should feel tacky to the touch, but not sticky, and pull away from your finger when poked instead of sticking to it. If the dough is too sticky, add 1 Tbs. flour at a time, kneading to incorporate. If it’s stiff, knead in 1 Tbs. of milk at a time.

Rub a little vegetable oil on a work surface to create an 8-inch circle and put the dough on this spot. Stretch and fold the dough over itself from all four sides to the center, crimping it where the folded ends meet, to form it into a tight, round ball.

Put the dough seam side down in a lightly oiled bowl that’s twice the size of the dough. Tightly cover with plastic wrap. Let sit at room temperature until doubled in size, about 90 minutes.

Shape the rolls

Mist two 12-cup muffin tins with vegetable oil spray.

With a bench knife, divide the dough into 24 pieces, about 2 oz. each. Wipe the work surface with a damp towel or mist lightly with vegetable oil spray (don’t use flour). Form your hand into a cup by curling your fingers slightly, with your thumb snug against your index finger. Use this cupped hand to press and rotate a piece of dough as if you were trying to screw it through the dampened work surface. It should form a smooth round ball within 5 seconds and pop up into your cupped hand.

Using kitchen shears, cut through the top center of the roll, almost all the way through, leaving about 1/4-inch of dough at the bottom to hold the two halves together. Cut one of the halves twice more at 1/2-inch intervals parallel to the first cut. Repeat these cuts on the other half for a total of six sections, each about 1/2-inch wide. Place the dough, cut side up, into the prepared muffin pan. Brush the melted butter over the top and down into the cuts. Repeat with the remaining dough, placing 12 rolls into each muffin pan.

Mist the top of the rolls with vegetable oil spray and cover the pans loosely with plastic wrap. Allow the rolls to proof at room temperature until they nearly double in size, 60 to 90 minutes. The time vary depending on the temperature of the room and the dough; if you made the dough ahead and refrigerated it, the cold dough will take longer to proof. 

Position the oven racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. If using a convection oven, heat the oven to 350°F; if using a conventional oven, heat the oven to 375°F. Bake the rolls for 7 minutes. Rotate the tins 180 degrees and swap their placement on the racks. Continue baking until the rolls turn rich golden-brown on top, 7 to 9 minutes more. Let the rolls cool for 5 minutes before removing them from the tin.

Chocolate Babka with Mascarpone

Babka is an Old World Jewish favorite that has become an almost mythical bakery item because it is so difficult to find these days. My grandmother was a great baker who regularly turned out rugelach, mandelbrot, macaroons, and honey cake. She made a fabulous chocolate babka that I remember with a mixture of nostalgia and regret, since I enjoyed it so much but never asked her to teach me how to make it. When I finally got around to coming up with my own babka recipe, I tried to make it just as wonderfully chocolatey and crumbly as hers. Best-quality European chocolate is essential (I use Callebaut). Babka is often made with cream cheese, but I like mascarpone for the hint of nutty flavor that it gives to the dough, but you may use regular cream cheese in its place if it’s more convenient.

• 2⁄3 cup room temperature milk (70°F to 78°F)
• 2 Tbs. mascarpone cheese
• 1 cup sugar
• 2 large eggs
• 2 large egg yolks
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1⁄2 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
• 20 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 Tbs. instant yeast
• 5 oz. (1-1⁄4 sticks) unsalted butter, softened and cut into bits
• 8 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
• 2 Tbs. heavy cream

Combine the milk, mascarpone cheese, 1⁄2 cup of the sugar, eggs, 1 of the egg yolks, vanilla, and salt in the bowl of a standing mixer. Stir with a rubber spatula to combine. Add the flour and yeast and stir a few times until a rough dough forms. Mix on low speed for a few minutes with the dough hook.

With the mixer running, add the butter, 1 piece at a time, until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and knead until it comes together in a sticky but cohesive mass, 4 to 5 minutes.

With the mixer running, add the butter, 1 piece at a time, until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and knead until it comes together in a sticky but cohesive mass, 4 to 5 minutes.

Grease a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan. Combine the chocolate and the remaining 1⁄2 cup sugar in a medium bowl.

Deflate the dough by gently pressing down on it with your palms. Turn it onto a lightly floured countertop and roll it into a rough 16 by 8-inch rectangle, with the long side facing you.

Sprinkle the chocolate and sugar mixture over the dough. Starting with the long side closest to you, roll the dough into a snug log. Pinch the outside edges to seal.

Fold the log in half and twist it once in the center (giving it a shape like an awareness ribbon). Gently place the folded and twisted dough into the prepared pan. Lightly drape with plastic wrap and let rise until increased in volume by 50 percent, 1 to 2 hours (alter-natively, refrigerate the dough overnight and bring to room temperature before letting it rise and baking it).

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly beat the cream and the remaining egg yolk together in a small bowl. Brush the top of the babka with the egg wash. Bake until the top of the babka is deep golden brown and baked through, about 40 minutes. Overturn the loaf onto a wire rack, and re-invert. Let cool completely before slicing and serving. Chocolate Babka will keep at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 3 days. For longer storage, wrap in plastic wrap and then aluminum foil for up to 1 month. To defrost, place on the countertop for several hours, and reheat in the oven at 350°F for 10 minutes before serving.