Slow-Cooker Citrus-Lemongrass Rice Pudding

This simple-to-prepare rice pudding—delicious served cold or warm—is creamy and perfumed with the Thai flavors of citrus and lemongrass. It's best when made with medium-grain white rice, as for risotto. Don’t use long-grain or brown rice, which takes longer to cook and requires more liquid. To save time, zest the citrus with a Microplane rasp.

• Cooking spray
• 5-inch length fresh lemongrass, finely chopped
• 3 cups 2% milk
• 3-1⁄2 cups coconut milk (not low fat), well shaken
• 1-1⁄2 cups granulated sugar
• 1⁄2 tsp. kosher salt
• 1-1⁄2 cups uncooked medium-grain white rice, such as arborio, rinsed with cold water and drained
• 1-1⁄2 Tbs. total freshly grated lemon, orange, and lime zest (use a mixture for the best flavor); more for serving (optional)
• 1 tsp. vanilla bean paste or extract
• 1⁄8 tsp. ground cardamom

Tip:

To adapt a slow-cooker recipe to a conventional oven, follow these guidelines: add more liquid, to accommodate for greater evaporation; bring the dish to a boil over high heat in a Dutch oven, then cover the pot and put in a 350°F oven. Plan on the dish taking roughly half the time to cook in the oven as it would in the slow cooker.

Grease the slow cooker with cooking spray. Place the lemongrass on a small piece of cheesecloth, form into a bundle, and secure tightly with kitchen twine. Add to a medium-size, heavy saucepan, along with the milk, coconut milk, sugar, and salt. Stir and bring to a strong simmer over medium-high heat (to prevent curdling, do not let boil).

Pour the hot mixture, including the lemongrass sachet, into the slow cooker. Add the rice and stir well. Cover and cook on low until the rice is completely tender, about 2 hours (you want there to be some liquid left). Remove from the heat, discard the lemongrass sachet, and stir in the zest, vanilla, and cardamom.

Let cool slightly, then pour into individual serving bowls, cover, and refrigerate until cold. If desired, garnish with additional zest before serving.

Lemon-Rosemary Christmas Trees

Rosemary gives these holiday cutout cookies a subtle piny touch, and lemon adds brightness.

For the Cookies:

• 15 oz. (3-1/3 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. table salt
• 8 oz. (1 cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh rosemary
• 1 large egg
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Tip:

For the best results, measure your flour by weight instead of volume. (1 cup of all-purpose flour equals 4-1/2 oz.) If you don’t have a scale, be sure to use the proper technique when filling your measuring cups.

For the Icing:

• 1 large egg white (see note at right)
• 6-1/2 oz. (1-1/2 cups plus 2 Tbs.) confectioners' sugar; more as needed
• 1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
• Decorating sugar or edible dragees (optional)

Tip:

Note: The risk of salmonella infection from consuming raw eggs is very low, but you can eliminate it entirely by using pasteurized eggs.

Make the cookies:

In a medium bowl, whisk the flour and salt. With a hand mixer or a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Mix in the lemon zest and rosemary. Add the egg and vanilla; continue beating until well blended and smooth, about 30 seconds more. Reduce the speed to low and gradually add the dry ingredients. Mix until the dough is just combined; don't overmix. Divide the dough into 2 equal portions.

Roll one half of the dough between two sheets of parchment to an even 3/16-inch thickness. Slide the dough and parchment onto a cookie sheet and refrigerate until firm, about 30 minutes. Repeat with the remaining dough.

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Line four cookie sheets with parchment.

Using a 3-1/2-inch (or similar) Christmas tree cookie cutter, cut out the cookies and arrange them 1 inch apart on the cookie sheets. Press the scraps together, reroll, and cut (if the dough becomes too soft to handle, chill until firm). Repeat one more time and then discard the scraps. Repeat with the remaining dough.

Bake two sheets at a time until the cookies' edges are golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes, rotating and swapping the sheets' positions halfway through for even baking. Cool the cookies on racks.

Make the icing:

In a medium bowl, whisk the egg white, sugar, and lemon juice until smooth. If not using immediately, transfer the icing to a small bowl and press plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the icing to prevent it from drying out.

Decorate the cookies:

Spoon some of the icing into a small pastry bag with a small (3/16 inch) plain tip. (Or use a small plastic bag and cut a tiny bit off a bottom corner of the bag.) Pipe the icing onto the cookies to outline the rim. (If the icing is too thick to pipe, put it back in the bowl and stir in water, a drop at a time, until it pipes easily but still retains its shape. If the icing is too thin, add confectioners' sugar, 1 tsp. at a time.)

If using decorating sugar or dragées, apply them while the icing is wet. Once the icing is completely dry and hard, store the cookies in airtight containers in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Pineapple-Ginger Brown Sugar Crisp

Fruit crisps usually showcase apples or stone fruit, but they’re just as good, if not better, made with pineapple. As it bakes, the pineapple releases much of its moisture, so the crisp comes out extra juicy and full of sweet-tart flavor. Serve with vanilla ice cream.  

• 1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar
• 2-1/4 oz. (1/2 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 7/8 oz. (1/4 cup) old-fashioned rolled oats (not quick-cooking or instant)
• 2 oz. (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
• Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
• Kosher salt
• 1 large fresh pineapple (about 4-1/4 lb.), peeled, cored, cut lengthwise into eighths, then crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 Tbs. fresh lime juice
• 1 Tbs. finely grated fresh ginger
• 1 Tbs. cornstarch

Tip:

See the Test Kitchen post to learn how to prep a pineapple.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.

Combine the brown sugar, flour, oats, butter, nutmeg, and 1/8 tsp. salt in a medium bowl. Using your fingers, rub in the butter until it’s about the size of small peas and the mixture resembles coarse, crumbly breadcrumbs; it should hold together when squeezed. Refrigerate, uncovered, while you make the filling.

Put the pineapple in a large bowl. In a small bowl, combine the lime juice, ginger, and a pinch of salt and whisk to blend. Stir the lime mixture into the pineapple. Sprinkle the cornstarch over the pineapple and stir again.

Transfer the pineapple to a 9-inch square baking dish and sprinkle the crumb mixture evenly over the top. Cover with foil and bake for 20 minutes. Remove the foil and continue to bake until the fruit is bubbling around the edges and the top is golden-brown and crisp, about 15  minutes more. Let cool for at least 15 minutes before serving.

Warm Maple and Cinnamon Bread Pudding

Take the flavors of a coffee cake, apply them to a bread pudding, and you get this warming custard, reminiscent of French toast and perfect for brunch or dessert. For the best results, let the custard soak into the bread for at least 4 hours before baking.

• Unsalted butter for the pan
• 3 cups whole milk
• 8 large eggs, beaten
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• Kosher salt
• 1 cup walnuts (about 4 oz.) toasted
• 1/2 cup light brown sugar
• 1 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1 lb. rustic white bread (like ciabatta), cut into 3/4-inch-thick slices
• 3/4 cup pure maple syrup
• Confectioners’ sugar for sprinkling (optional)

Butter a 9x13-inch baking dish. In a medium bowl, whisk the milk with the eggs, vanilla, and 3/4 tsp. salt. In a mini chopper or food processor, pulse the walnuts with the brown sugar and cinnamon. Arrange half the bread slices in an even layer on the bottom of the dish; cut slices into small pieces to fill in the holes. Cover with half of the egg mixture, a third of the nuts, and a third of the maple syrup. Make another layer with the remaining bread and cover with the rest of the egg mixture, another third of the nuts, and a third of the maple syrup. Sprinkle with the rest of the nut mixture and maple syrup. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing down so the bread is completely submerged in the egg mixture, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 2 days before baking.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Let the bread pudding sit at room temperature while the oven heats. Bake until the custard starts to set, about 30 minutes. Loosely cover the pudding with foil to prevent browning, and cook for another 10 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes and serve sprinkled with the confectioners’ sugar, if desired.

Gingerbread Biscotti

Biscotti are very forgiving, and you can bake these to your taste: chewy, crunchy, or somewhere in between.

• 10 oz. (2-1/4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1-1/4 cups packed dark brown sugar
• 2 tsp. ground ginger
• 1-1/4 tsp. baking powder
• 1 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp. table salt
• 1/4 tsp. ground nutmeg
• 1/4 tsp. baking soda
• 4 oz. (1 cup) pecans, coarsely chopped
• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) lightly packed dried apricots, coarsely chopped
• 1/4 cup molasses
• 2 large eggs
• 2 tsp. finely grated orange zest (from about 1 medium navel orange)

Tip:

For the best results, measure your flour by weight instead of volume. (1 cup of all-purpose flour equals 4-1/2 oz.) If you don’t have a scale, be sure to use the proper technique when filling your measuring cups.

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Line a large cookie sheet with parchment.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, brown sugar, ginger, baking powder, cinnamon, salt, nutmeg, and baking soda on medium-low speed until well blended. On low speed, briefly mix in the pecans and apricots. In a measuring cup, lightly whisk the molasses, eggs, and orange zest. With the mixer on low, slowly pour in the egg mixture. Continue mixing until the dough is well blended and comes together in large, moist clumps, 1 to 2 minutes.

Dump the dough onto an unfloured work surface. Divide into two equal piles (about 1 lb. each). Shape each pile into a log that's 10 inches long and about 1-1/2 inches in diameter, lightly flouring your hands as needed (the dough is a bit sticky).

Position the logs on the lined cookie sheet about 4 inches apart. Bake until the tops are cracked and spring back slightly when gently pressed, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer the sheet to a rack and let cool until the logs are cool enough to handle, about 10 minutes.

Carefully peel the biscotti logs from the parchment and transfer to a cutting board. Using a serrated knife, saw each log into diagonal slices 3/4 inch wide. Return the slices to the cookie sheet (no need for fresh parchment) and arrange them cut side down. It's all right if they touch because they won't spread.

Bake until the biscotti are dried to your taste, about 10 minutes (for slightly moist and chewy) to 20 minutes (for super-dry and crunchy). Transfer the cookie sheet to a rack and let the biscotti cool completely. The biscotti will still give slightly when pressed, but will harden as they cool. When cool, store in airtight containers.

Pear Tarte Tatin with Almond Pastry

Caramelized pears take the place of apples in this classic dessert. The amounts for flour, butter, and nuts are listed by weight (ounces) and by volume (cups and tablespoons); use either measurement.

For the pastry:

• 4-1/4 oz. (1 cup) cake flour
• 4 oz. (8 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut into large pieces
• 1/2 tsp. table salt
• 1 tsp. granulated sugar
• 1-1/4 oz. (1/3 cup lightly packed) ground almonds
• 1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten
• 3 Tbs. heavy cream

For the caramelized pears:

• 3 lb. pears (about 6 large), peeled, halved, and cored
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger tossed with 1 tsp. sugar
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1/4 cup water
• 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter

Make the pastry:

In a food processor, combine the flour, butter, salt, and sugar. Pulse briefly until the mixture has pea-size lumps and the rest looks like cornmeal. Add the almonds and pulse for just another second. Mound the mixture on a work surface, make a well, and pour the egg yolk and cream into the center. With your fingertips, draw the flour mixture into the well. Continue mixing the ingredients until you have a shaggy dough. Knead the dough just until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Caramelize the pears and bake the tarte:

Cut the pear halves lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Toss them with the ginger-sugar mixture. Heat a 9-inch cast-iron or other heavy-based pan with an ovenproof handle over medium-high heat. Add the sugar and water; swirl the pan to combine. Watch the sugar syrup carefully as it bubbles. When it turns light brown, add the butter and cook, stirring gently with a wooden spoon, until the caramel is an even, deep brown. Remove the pan from the heat and let the caramel cool slightly. Carefully arrange the pear slices in the caramel in a single concentric layer. Top with additional pear slices, continuing the circular pattern until  the pears reach the top of the pan. (They’ll shrink as they cook.) Return the pan to medium-high heat and cook until the pears on the bottom layer are fork-tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly while you roll out the dough.

Heat the oven to 450°F. Roll out the dough on a floured surface into a 10-1/2-inch round and drape it over the pan of pears to cover. (If the dough is still cool, you can pick it up with your hands; otherwise, gently roll the dough onto the rolling pin to move it to the pan.) Fold the excess dough onto itself to form a rough border. Press the crust down onto the pears to compress them slightly.

Lower the oven temperature to 400°F. Bake the tarte until the pastry is crisp and golden brown, about 45 minutes. Let cool in the pan for about 15 minutes. Carefully invert the tarte onto a serving plate with a rim to catch the caramel. Pour any caramel that stays in the pan over the tarte.

Brandy-and-Rum-Glazed Pound Cake

The boozy glaze on this cake not only gives it extra flavor but also keeps it fresh longer. This cake is delicious paired with a tropical fruit salad or, for a holiday dinner, a dried fruit compote.

For the Cake:

• 10 oz. (1-1/4 cups) unsalted butter, softened at room temperature; more for the pan
• 10-1/4 oz. (2-1/2 cups) cake flour or 11 oz. (2-1/3 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more for the pan
• 1-1/2 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. table salt
• 1-3/4 cups granulated sugar
• 2 large egg yolks, at room temperature
• 3 large eggs, at room temperature
• 2/3 cup whole milk, at room temperature
• 1-1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1/2 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

For the Glaze:

• 1-1/4 cups confectioners’ sugar
• 3 Tbs. brandy
• 3 Tbs. rum

Bake the Cake:

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 12-cup Bundt pan, dust the pan with flour, and tap out the excess. In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt until evenly combined.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and the sugar at medium speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes.

On low speed, beat in the yolks until smooth. Stop the mixer and scrape the bowl and the paddle. With the mixer running on medium-low speed, add the whole eggs, one at a time, mixing for at least 20 seconds after each addition. Stop the mixer and scrape the bowl and paddle again.

With the mixer running on the lowest speed, add half of the flour mixture and mix just to combine, add the milk and mix until combined, and then add the remaining flour mixture and mix just until combined.

Scrape the bowl one last time, add the vanilla extract and nutmeg, and mix at medium speed until the batter is smooth and fluffy, 20 to 30 seconds.

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and spread it evenly. Run a knife through the batter and tap the pan against the counter to dislodge trapped air. Bake until golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out with only moist crumbs clinging to it, 45 to 55 minutes. Cool in the pan for 15 minutes.

Glaze the Cake:

While the cake bakes, stir together the confectioner's sugar, brandy, and rum until smooth. After the baked cake has cooled for 15 minutes, turn the warm cake onto a serving plate. Using a skewer, poke holes all over the cake. Brush the cake—every visible inch of it—with the glaze, until the glaze is gone. When the cake is completely cool, the glaze will form a protective crust over the cake

Classic Meatloaf

If you don't see ground veal or ground pork at your grocer, ask the butcher to grind it for you. Choose ground beef that isn't too lean: 85 percent is a good bet. Many groceries carry "meatloaf mix" packages of ground beef, veal, and pork.

• 1 Tbs. vegetable or olive oil; more for the baking sheet
• 1/2 cup finely chopped onion
• 1-1/2 tsp. minced garlic
• 3/4 lb. ground beef, 85-percent lean
• 3/4 lb. ground veal
• 3/4 lb. ground pork
• 1/2 cup tomato ketchup
• 1 Tbs. Dijon-style mustard
• 1-1/2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• 3/4 cup fresh plain breadcrumbs
• 1 egg
• 1-1/2 tsp. salt
• 3/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• About 8 slices raw bacon

Heat the oven to 350°F. In a small skillet, heat the oil; add the onions and cook over medium heat until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté another 1 to 2 minutes to soften. Set aside to cool.

In a large mixing bowl, combine all the remaining ingredients except the bacon, and add the cooled onion-garlic mixture. Mix with a rubber spatula or your hands just until the ingredients are combined. Don't overwork the meat.

Oil a rimmed baking sheet or jelly roll pan, turn the meat mixture out onto the pan, and shape it into a large loaf (I like mine to look like a slightly oval loaf of bread). Or divide the mixture into four equal portions (about 6 oz. each) and shape each portion into an individual meatloaf. Wrap strips of bacon around the shaped loaf, tucking the ends under the loaf.

Bake the meatloaf until an instant-read thermometer registers 160°F, 50 to 60 minutes for a large loaf, or 25 to 35 minutes for smaller loaves. Before slicing, let the meatloaf rest for 10 to 15 minutes to allow some carryover cooking and to let the juices redistribute. To serve, slice and spoon some of the pan juices over the slices, if you like.

Persimmon Cake with Crème Fraîche and Maple Pecans

Crisp, crunchy varieties of persimmons, like Fuyus, are great eaten out of hand, sliced into salads, and diced into salsas, but this cake, inspired by farmer James Birch of Flora Bella Farm, is the perfect way to show off the softer Hachiya types, which need to be completely soft before they are eaten. I love that these persimmons actually taste of fall and winter— as if they have been grown in fields of cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove. It’s very strange but so magical to have those flavors reinforced by the fruit itself. This is a great one for the Thanksgiving or Christmas buffet.

For the maple pecans

• 1-1/2 cups pecans
• 2 Tbs. maple sugar
• 1 Tbs. maple syrup
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt

Tip:

Maple sugar can be found at Trader Joe’s, Whole Foods, specialty stores, and of course, online. Although you can substitute turbinado or even brown sugar, the maple sugar makes it extra maple-y and special.

For the cake

• 1-3/4 cups (approximately 3-1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus a little for the pan
• About 3 ripe Hachiya persimmons (to yield 1 cup puréed flesh)
• 2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. baking soda
• 1-1/2 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. ground cardamom
• 1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
• 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• Pinch ground cloves
• 1/4 tsp. kosher salt
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1-1/2 cups sugar
• 2 extra-large eggs
• 1/4 cup crème fraîche
• 1-1/2 cups maple pecans

Make the maple pecans

Heat oven to 350° F.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Combine all the ingredients in a large bowl. Spread evenly across the prepared baking sheet. Bake, stirring every few minutes, for about 10 minutes, or until toasted. Set aside until ready to finish the cake.

Make the cake

Heat the oven to 350° F.

Prepare a 10-inch round cake pan by lightly buttering the inside surfaces, lining the bottom with parchment paper, and buttering the parchment. Cook 4 Tbs. butter (1/2 stick) in a small saucepan over high heat for a few minutes, swirling the pan, until the butter browns and smells nutty. Set aside to cool.

Scoop the ripe flesh from the persimmons, and purée in a blender until smooth. Measure out 1 cup purée.

Whisk together flour, baking soda, baking powder, the spices, and salt in a small bowl, and set aside.

In another bowl, combine the purée, 1/4 cup cream, vanilla, and cooled browned butter.

Paddle the remaining 1-1/2 cups butter and the sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer at medium-high for 3 minutes, until light and fluffy. Add eggs one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each egg. Decrease the paddle speed to low. Alternately add the flour mixture and persimmon-purée mixture to the bowl, in three additions, beginning and ending with the flour mixture.

Evenly spread the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for about 1 hour, until cake feels springy to the touch. Whip the remaining 3/4 cup cream and the crème fraîche to soft peaks. Cut six slices from the cake (the cake will yield ten to twelve servings), and place on six dessert plates. Dollop with whipped crème fraîche, and scatter the candied pecans over the cake and around the plate.

Pine Nut Wedding Cookies

• 2 cups pine nuts, toasted
• 10 oz. (2-1/4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1/2 tsp. table salt
• 8 oz. (1 cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 4 oz. (1 cup) confectioners' sugar, sifted

Tip:

For the best results, measure your flour by weight instead of volume. (1 cup of all-purpose flour equals 4-1/2 oz.) If you don’t have a scale, be sure to use the proper technique when filling your measuring cups.

In a food processor, pulse the pine nuts and 1 cup of the flour until finely ground. Add the remaining flour and the salt and pulse to blend. With a hand mixer or a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and granulated sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the vanilla and mix on medium until combined, about 15 seconds. Reduce the speed to low and gradually add the dry ingredients, mixing until the dough is just combined. Cover with plastic and refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour.

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Line two cookie sheets with parchment or nonstick baking liners.

Using your palms, roll heaping tablespoonfuls of the dough into 1-1/2-inch balls. Arrange them 1 inch apart on the lined sheets. Bake until golden around the edges and light golden on top, 19 to 21 minutes, rotating and swapping the sheets halfway through for even baking. Transfer the cookies, still on their parchment, to a rack and let cool for 5 to 10 minutes, or until they have firmed up a bit and are cool enough to handle.

Put the confectioners' sugar in a small bowl. Gently toss the cookies in the sugar to coat; let them cool completely on racks. Toss them again in the sugar. The cookies will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.

Beef Daube Provençal

Regardless of how fancy this dish may sound, this is simple, satisfying country cooking.

• 4 lb. boneless lean rump roast, chuck pot roast, sirloin tip, top round, or bottom round, cut into 2-inch cubes
• 1 (750-ml) bottle dry red wine (such as Côtes du Rhône, Bandol, or Mourvèdre)
• 1 carrot, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 celery stalk, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 onion, preferably Vidalia, coarsely chopped
• 3 Tbs. pure olive oil, plus more if needed
• Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Bouquet garni (5 sprigs thyme; 4 sprigs flat-leaf parsley; 2 bay leaves, preferably fresh; and 10 whole black peppercorns, tied together in cheesecloth)
• 1 cup pitted green olives
• Finely grated zest of 2 oranges
• 1 Tbs. anchovy paste
• 6 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
• 1 cup homemade beef stock or reduced-fat, low-sodium beef stock, if needed

To marinate the beef, place the meat cubes in a large nonreactive bowl. Add the wine, carrot, celery, and onion. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to overnight.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with paper towels. Remove the beef from the marinade and transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Pat the meat dry with paper towels. Strain the marinade, reserving both the vegetables and the liquid separately.

To cook the beef, heat a large, heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add 2 Tbs. of the oil and heat until shimmering. Season the beef with salt and pepper. Working in two or three batches without crowding, sear the beef until nicely browned on all sides, about 5 minutes. Remove and discard the paper towels; transfer the beef to the prepared baking sheet when done. (In this case, it’s okay to use the same baking sheet for the raw and cooked beef because the meat will be cooked further.) Return the beef to the Dutch oven.

 

Tie the vegetables from the marinade in cheesecloth with cotton twine. (This makes it easier to purée the sauce later.) Add the bundle of vegetables, bouquet garni, olives, orange zest, anchovy paste, garlic, and reserved marinade to the pan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cover and transfer to the oven. Cook until the meat is tender, 3 to 3-1/2 hours.

Remove the bouquet garni from the Dutch oven and discard. Transfer the beef and olives with a slotted spoon to a bowl. Open the bundle of vegetables and add to the sauce. In the Dutch oven, using an immersion blender, purée the sauce and vegetables until smooth. Or, once the beef and olives are removed, ladle the sauce and vegetables into a blender a little at a time and purée until smooth. Cook the puréed sauce over medium-high heat until it coats the back of a spoon; if needed, thin with beef stock to achieve this consistency. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Return the beef and olives to the sauce and turn to coat. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Sear-Roasted Rosemary Steak and Potatoes

This is a one-pan take on steak and potatoes. Sear the strip steaks on the stovetop, and then roast them with small red potatoes and rosemary sprigs. Thinly slice the beef before serving it with the potatoes.

• Four 1-1/2-inch-thick top loin (New York strip) steaks (8 to 10 oz. each), trimmed
• 1 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary plus
• 3 sprigs, pulled apart into smaller pieces
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 1-1/2 lbs. small red potatoes, halved or quartered if large
• 2 tsp. balsamic vinegar

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425°F. Sprinkle the steaks with the chopped rosemary, 1-1/2 tsp. salt, and 3/4 tsp. pepper. In a large (12-inch), oven-proof, heavy-duty skillet (like a cast-iron pan) over medium-high heat, combine 1 Tbs. each of the butter and oil and heat until the butter melts and its foam subsides. Add the steaks and cook without touching until they brown around the edges and easily release from the pan, about 3 minutes. Flip and cook the other sides until they brown, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a large plate.

Add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil to the skillet. Arrange the potatoes, cut side down, in the skillet, scatter the rosemary leaves around the potatoes, sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt, and transfer to the oven. Roast until the potatoes are tender when pierced, about 15 minutes. Set the steaks atop the potatoes and cook until the steaks are medium-rare—an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part should register 135°F, about 10 minutes.

Transfer the steaks to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes. Toss the potatoes with the remaining 2 Tbs. butter and the balsamic vinegar, and keep warm in the oven (turn the oven off and leave the door slightly open). Serve the steaks thinly sliced, with the potatoes on the side, drizzled with any remaining balsamic and butter mixture and sprinkled lightly with salt and pepper.

Crackle Brittle

This brittle is based on the filling of the celebrated Crack Pie we serve at my bakeries. An easy no-boil recipe, it’s a good option for anyone nervous about a pot of hot sugar.

• Vegetable oil for the pan, if needed
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1/4 cup packed light brown sugar
• 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1-1/4 tsp. kosher salt
• 2-1/4 oz. (4-1/2 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 2 large egg yolks
• 1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1 cup puffed rice cereal, crushed corn flakes or other cereal, graham crackers, chips, pretzels, granola, nuts, or seeds

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Have ready a 9x13-inch rimmed baking sheet. If the sheet is not nonstick, line the bottom and sides with parchment and oil the parchment.

Whisk both sugars, the flour, and salt in a medium bowl. Whisk in the butter, cream, yolks, and vanilla until well combined.

Pour the mixture onto the baking sheet and use a silicone spatula to spread it evenly to the edges. Sprinkle the cereal, nuts, or seeds over the mixture. Bake, rotating the pan if hot spots appear, until the brittle is dark golden-brown, 20 to 25 minutes.

Cool on the baking sheet on a rack at room temperature for 30minutes (leave the oven on). If it’s still malleable, return it to the hot oven for another 5 to 10 minutes until it’s a shade or two darker. Let cool for another 30 minutes and test again. Once it’s no longer malleable, cool completely, about 1-1/2 hours.

Invert the brittle onto a cutting board and remove the baking sheet and parchment, if using. Use a meat mallet, rolling pin, or your hands to break it up into medium-to-small pieces. The brittle can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 month.

Beef Tenderloin with Wild Mushroom Stuffing & Port Wine Sauce

Don’t be scared off by the liver in this stuffing. It’s really there just to bind the stuffing and add a rich background note; you won’t even notice it.

For the sauce:

• 1-1/4 oz. (2-1/2 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 1 large shallot, finely chopped (about 1/4 cup)
• One 750-ml bottle tawny port (about 3-1/4 cups)
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme
• 2-1/2 cups low-salt chicken broth
• 1 oz. dried porcini mushrooms
• 2 tsp. all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. good-quality balsamic vinegar; more to taste
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the stuffing:

• 1 Tbs. dried currants
• 2 Tbs. canola oil
• 1 small chicken liver, fat trimmed and lobes separated (1-1/2 to 2 oz.)
• 1/2 lb. mixed fresh shiitake, oyster, and hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, stemmed and sliced 1/4 inch thick (use all 3 varieties if you can find them; otherwise, try to use at least 2)
• 1 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper; more to taste
• 1 small shallot, finely chopped (a heaping 1 Tbs.)
• 2 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped (about 2 tsp.)
• 1/4 cup low-salt chicken broth
• 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces and softened at room temperature
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh parsley
• 1-1/2 tsp. Cognac or Armagnac
• 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
• 1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• 1/4 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

For the roast:

• 4-lb. beef tenderloin roast, preferably center-cut
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Make the sauce reduction:

Melt 1 Tbs. of the butter in a 3- to 4-quart (preferably 8-inch-wide) saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the shallot and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the port and the thyme sprigs and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to maintain a brisk simmer and cook until the port has reduced to a syrupy texture, about 30 minutes—you should have about 1/2 cup including the shallot.

Meanwhile, bring the chicken broth to a simmer in a small saucepan. Off the heat, add the porcini and let them soak for 15 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the porcini to a small bowl. Strain the soaking liquid through a fine sieve lined with a paper towel or coffee filter.

Add the soaking liquid and half of the porcini (about 1/3 cup) to the port reduction (save the remaining porcini for the stuffing). Bring the sauce to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to maintain a brisk simmer and cook until it has reduced to 1-1/3 cups, about 15 minutes. Strain the sauce through a fine strainer, pressing on the solids. You should have about 1 cup sauce. Set aside until the roast is done.

Make the stuffing:

Soak the currants in hot water for 10 minutes. Drain and put them in a food processor. Add the reserved soaked porcini. Heat 1 Tbs. of the oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Pat the chicken liver dry and cook on both sides until browned on the outside and just a little pink inside, 3 to 4 minutes total. Transfer to a plate, let cool slightly, and then add to the food processor. Process until finely chopped.

Heat the remaining 1 Tbs. oil in the skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms, salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until they look wilted and shrunken, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the shallot and garlic and continue to cook, stirring, until the mushrooms are tender and beginning to brown, 3 to 4 more minutes. Add the chicken broth and scrape the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to loosen any brown bits. If the liquid doesn’t evaporate right away, boil until it does. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool slightly.

Add the sautéed mushrooms, butter, parsley, Cognac or Armagnac, lemon juice, thyme, and lemon zest to the liver mixture in the food processor. Pulse to form a chunky paste and season to taste with additional salt and pepper.

Scrape the stuffing onto a large piece of plastic wrap and shape it into a log a few inches longer than the roast. Tightly roll the stuffing up in the plastic wrap and twist the ends to form a very tight log. Twisting the ends of the plastic will compress the stuffing so that it’s just a bit shorter than the roast. Freeze until firm, about 2 hours and up to 2 days.

Stuff & cook the roast:

Trim the silverskin and excess fat from the tenderloin. Butterfly the tenderloin by slicing it lengthwise almost but not completely in half, so that you can open it like a book.

Unwrap the stuffing and center it along one half of the roast. Fold the roast back up to its original shape and tie at 1- to 2-inch intervals with butcher’s twine.

Let the roast sit at room temperature for 1 hour (2 hours if the stuffing is frozen solid). Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 500°F. Let the remaining 1-1/2 Tbs. butter for the sauce soften at room temperature.

Season the roast generously with salt and pepper and put it on a flat rack set in a roasting pan or heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet. Roast for 15 minutes and then reduce the oven temperature to 325°F. Continue to roast the beef until a meat thermometer inserted into the center of the meat (not the stuffing) registers 125°F for rare or 130°F for medium rare, 30 to 45 minutes more. Move the roast to a carving board and let it rest, loosely tented with foil, for 15 minutes.

Finish the sauce:

While the roast rests, bring the sauce to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Mix the softened butter with the flour to form a paste and whisk it into the sauce. Simmer the sauce to thicken slightly and cook off any raw flour taste, about 3 minutes. Whisk in the vinegar. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and additional vinegar.

Plate & serve:

Remove the strings from the roast and slice it into 8 to 10 medallions. Put a medallion on each plate and drizzle the sauce around the beef.

Sear-Roasted Beef Tenderloin

Tenderloin has a wonderful texture, but its flavor can be a bit bland. This recipe brings out its natural goodness by salting ahead to concentrate flavors, searing to develop a rich crust, and glazing with ingredients that add depth.

• 1 trimmed whole beef tenderloin (3-1/2 to 4 lb.)
• Kosher salt
• 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
• 1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
• 1 medium clove garlic, mashed to a paste
• 1 tsp. honey
• 1 tsp. soy sauce
• 1 tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. olive oil

Fold the thinner end of the tenderloin under to create an evenly thick roast; secure with twine. Rub the beef all over with 1 Tbs. salt. Wrap it in butcher paper or plastic wrap, put it on a platter or rimmed baking sheet, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 2 days.

Remove the beef from the refrigerator and let sit for about an hour before roasting. Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 475°F.

In a small bowl, combine the mustard, Worcestershire sauce, garlic, honey, soy sauce, thyme, and a few grinds of pepper; set aside.

Heat a flame-proof roasting pan over medium-high heat, using 2 burners if necessary. Add the oil, swirling the pan to coat, and then add the beef. Cook, turning with tongs, until well browned on all sides, about 12 minutes total. Transfer to a cutting board; wipe out the pan.

Brush the glaze over all of the beef, return it to the roasting pan, and roast to an internal temperature of 120°F for rare, 16 to 20 minutes, or 125°F for medium rare, 22 to 26 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board, tent with foil, and let rest for at least 15 minutes (and up to 1 hour if serving at room temperature). If serving warm or at room temperature, slice the tenderloin 1/2 inch thick and pour any juice that has accumulated over the sliced beef, if you like. If serving cold, wrap the tenderloin in plastic wrap once it has cooled and refrigerate it for up to 24 hours.

Herb-and-Salt-Crusted Standing Rib Roast with Morel Sauce

A salt, herb, and flour crust blankets the standing rib roast while it cooks, sealing in all the juices and infusing the meat with flavor. The result is a tender, perfectly medium-rare roast beef that’s seasoned all the way through. With a creamy sauce of dried morels and Marsala, it’s luxury on a plate.

• 2 cups kosher or sea salt
• 1 large egg white
• 3 Tbs. freshly ground black pepper
• 3 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme (stems included)
• 2 Tbs. chopped juniper berries
• 2 Tbs. chopped garlic
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 to 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour; more for rolling
• One 3-bone standing beef rib roast (about 7 lb.), cut from the loin end, chine bone and fat cap removed
• 1 Tbs. vegetable oil
• Morel Sauce

Tip:

It’s a good idea to order your beef rib roast ahead of time. Ask the butcher to remove the chine bone and fat cap for you

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine 1 cup water with the salt, egg white, pepper, thyme, juniper, garlic, and parsley. Mix on medium speed until blended. On medium-low speed, mix in 2 cups of the flour, adding more as needed, until the dough is firm and feels slightly dry and stiff, like Play-Doh. Continue to mix for 2 minutes. The dough should be smooth and firm but not sticky; add more flour if necessary. Flatten the dough into a rectangle, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 6 hours.

An hour before you’re ready to roast, put the beef on the counter and let sit at room temperature.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the oil and put the roast meat side down in the skillet; sear until deeply browned, about 5 minutes. Remove the roast from the pan and set it bone side down on a rack in a roasting pan.

On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a 1/4-inch-thick rectangle. Drape the dough over the meat, tucking it in on all sides. Roast until an instant-read thermometer in the middle of the roast registers 125°F for rare or 135°F for medium rare, 1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours. Let rest for 20 minutes, then remove and discard the crust. (After removing the crust, the roast can rest for up to 30 minutes more.) Carve and serve with the Morel Sauce.

Roasted Salmon with Shiitake, Leek & Arugula Salad

Need to eat and run? No problem. Roasting the fish and vegetables in one pan keeps cleanup to a minimum.

• 1/2 lb. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced 1/4 inch thick
• 1 medium leek, white and light-green parts only, halved lengthwise, rinsed well, and sliced 1/8 inch thick
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 medium lemon
• 4 skinless salmon fillets, 6 to 8 oz. each
• 3 lightly packed cups (3 oz.) baby arugula

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 450°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment.

In a medium bowl, toss the mushrooms, leek, oil, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Finely grate the lemon zest. In a small bowl, mix the zest with 1 tsp. salt and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Arrange the salmon on the baking sheet, rub the lemon zest mixture on the tops and sides of the fillets, and scatter the mushrooms and leeks around the fish in a single layer.

Roast until the vegetables are tender and the fish is opaque in the center, about 15 minutes. If the fish finishes cooking before the vegetables, transfer it to a plate and continue to roast the vegetables until tender, 3 to 5 minutes more.

Combine the arugula and roasted vegetables in a large bowl. Squeeze about 1 Tbs. juice from the lemon onto the vegetables and toss to combine. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and more lemon juice. Divide the mixture among four serving plates. Top each salad with a piece of the fish and serve.

Panang Curry Beef with Basil

This easy-to-make dinner will satisfy your craving for Thai food. Panang curry paste is milder than red curry paste and usually includes peanuts; look for it in the Asian section of the supermarket.

• 1 lb. flank steak, halved lengthwise
• 1 13.5-oz. can unsweetened coconut milk (do not stir)
• 2 Tbs. panang or red curry paste
• 2 Tbs. extra-crunchy peanut butter
• 5 tsp. fish sauce
• 4 tsp. dark brown sugar
• 1 medium red bell pepper, very thinly sliced lengthwise
• 1 medium onion, very thinly sliced lengthwise
• 1 cup thawed frozen peas
• 1 cup loosely packed basil leaves, torn
• 1-1/2 Tbs. fresh lime juice

Freeze the steak for 15 minutes to make slicing easier. Thinly slice the steak across the grain, no thicker than 1/8 inch.

Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Spoon the thick coconut cream from the top of the can into the skillet. Add the curry paste and cook, stirring, until fragrant and beginning to dry, 2 to 3 minutes.

Stir in the remaining coconut milk, peanut butter, fish sauce, brown sugar, and 1/4 cup water and bring to a simmer. Stir in the red pepper and onion, cover, and cook until the vegetables are crisp-tender, about 3 minutes.

Add the sliced beef, peas, and the basil; cook, uncovered, turning the beef often, until it no longer looks raw, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the lime juice and serve.

Salmon Fillets with Herbed Leeks

A bed of herbed leeks perfumes baked fish and makes a delicious garnish. Halibut or snapper would work as nicely as salmon.

For the fish:

• 4 salmon fillets (6 oz. each)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 leaves fresh sage
• 4 sprigs fresh thyme
• Grated zest of 1/2 lemon

For the leeks:

• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 3 large or 4 medium leeks (root and dark green parts removed), diced (to yield 3 cups), washed, and dried
• 1/2 tsp. salt; more to taste
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh sage
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh thyme
• Freshly ground black pepper

Season the fish fillets with salt and pepper. Drizzle them lightly with olive oil, rub them with the sage and thyme, and spread with the lemon zest. Lay a sage leaf and a sprig of thyme on each fillet. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to an hour.

Heat the oven to 400°F. In a wide, heavy sauté pan, heat the butter and olive oil until very hot. Add the diced leeks, stir to coat well, and reduce the heat to medium low. Salt them lightly, stir again, and continue to cook slowly until the leeks are soft, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding a few tablespoons of water if the pan gets too dry or the leeks are browning too much. Add the garlic, chopped herbs, salt, and pepper and cook for a few minutes until the garlic is soft and fragrant. Spread the leeks in the bottom of a 2-1/2-qt. ovenproof baking dish. Lay the fish fillets on top and bake until a paring knife inserted in the fish feels warm when touched to your lip, about 20 minutes. To serve, spoon the herbed leeks over each fillet.

Smoked Salmon & Cucumber Tea Sandwiches

• 1/2 cup crème fraîche
• 3 Tbs. chopped fresh dill
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• One-half medium English cucumber
• 8 large slices pumpernickel bread, each cut into four 2-inch triangles
• 1/4 lb. thinly sliced cold-smoked salmon, cut into 16 pieces

In a small bowl, mix the crème fraîche with the dill and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Peel the cucumber. Then, using the peeler, shave 16 wide strips from several sides of the cucumber (discard the seed core). In a medium bowl, toss the cucumber strips with 1/4 tsp. salt and let sit until softened, about 10 minutes. Pat dry with paper towels.

Spread the creme fraiche generously on one side of each bread triangle (you may not use it all). Top half of the triangles with a folded cucumber strip, a curl of the salmon, and a grind of black pepper. Set the remaining bread on top and serve.