FOOD API: Salmon

Showing posts with label Salmon. Show all posts

Thursday, November 14, 2013

Roasted Salmon with Shiitake, Leek & Arugula Salad

Need to eat and run? No problem. Roasting the fish and vegetables in one pan keeps cleanup to a minimum.

1/2 lb. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced 1/4 inch thick
1 medium leek, white and light-green parts only, halved lengthwise, rinsed well, and sliced 1/8 inch thick
3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 medium lemon
4 skinless salmon fillets, 6 to 8 oz. each
3 lightly packed cups (3 oz.) baby arugula

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 450°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment.

In a medium bowl, toss the mushrooms, leek, oil, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Finely grate the lemon zest. In a small bowl, mix the zest with 1 tsp. salt and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Arrange the salmon on the baking sheet, rub the lemon zest mixture on the tops and sides of the fillets, and scatter the mushrooms and leeks around the fish in a single layer.

Roast until the vegetables are tender and the fish is opaque in the center, about 15 minutes. If the fish finishes cooking before the vegetables, transfer it to a plate and continue to roast the vegetables until tender, 3 to 5 minutes more.

Combine the arugula and roasted vegetables in a large bowl. Squeeze about 1 Tbs. juice from the lemon onto the vegetables and toss to combine. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and more lemon juice. Divide the mixture among four serving plates. Top each salad with a piece of the fish and serve.

Herb & Lemon Roasted Salmon on a Bed of Roasted Potatoes & Sauteed Greens

The lemon-herb marinade does double-duty in this recipe. Use a generous amount to marinate the salmon, and then drizzle some on the potatoes before roasting. You might still have some leftover; use it to marinate chicken or lamb. I like to highlight the lemon flavor by drizzling a little lemon oil on the salmon just before serving. Don’t skip this step: it really pulls the flavors of the dish together.

1-1/2 cups olive oil, plus 2 Tbs. for sautéing the greens
3 Tbs. coarsely grated lemon zest
2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 Tbs. fresh thyme
2 Tbs. chopped garlic
6 portions skinless salmon fillet, 6 oz. each
Lemon Oil (see below)
2 lb. medium red or yellow potatoes (or 1 lb. each)
Kosher salt and coarsely ground black pepper
12 cloves garlic, roasted and coarsely chopped
2-1/2 oz. (1/2 cup) pine nuts, toasted
4 oz. (1/2 cup) raisins, covered with 1/4 cup port and macerated for several hours or overnight (optional)
12 cups packed arugula, about 20 oz. (tough stems removed), or two 10-oz. bags spinach (stems removed), cleaned thoroughly and put in a large bowl covered with damp paper towels and plastic wrap in the refrigerator

For the lemon oil:

1 cup best-quality extra-virgin olive oil
Grated zest of 2 lemons

One day ahead:

Make the marinade: Combine the 1-1/2 cups olive oil, lemon zest, parsley, thyme, and the 2 Tbs. chopped garlic. Keep the marinade covered in the refrigerator.

Marinate the salmon: Preferably the night before or at least 1 hour before cooking, cover the salmon with about 1 cup of the marinade and keep covered in the refrigerator. Reserve the remaining marinade separately in the refrigerator.

Make the lemon oil: Combine the oil and lemon zest. Store it in a squeeze bottle (or a glass jar) in the refrigerator.

One hour ahead:

Roast the potatoes: Heat the oven to 425°F. Slice the potatoes 3/16 inch thick. (Cut through the shortest width of the potato; discard the ends.) Make sure there are 8 slices per person (48 slices total). Rub a rimmed baking sheet or jellyroll pan with a little oil. Lay eight potato slices in two slightly overlapping lines about 5 to 6 inches long and a total of 4 inches wide. Repeat with the remaining potatoes to make six separate beds for the salmon. Space the beds an inch apart.

Season the potatoes with plenty of salt and pepper and drizzle them with some of the reserved lemon-herb marinade. Cook until the potatoes are tender and beginning to turn golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes. Set the potatoes, still on the baking sheet, aside. Reduce the oven temperature to 400°F.

Set the 2 Tbs. olive oil, pine nuts, raisins, chopped roasted garlic, and bowl of washed greens next to the stove and put a large sauté pan on a burner. Take the salmon out of the refrigerator to come to room temperature.

20 minutes before serving:

Lift the salmon out of the marinade, letting excess oil drain off but leaving the herbs on the salmon undisturbed. Put a fillet on top of each bed of potatoes on the baking sheet. Season generously with salt and pepper. Put the pan in the oven and cook 12 to 14 minutes for medium-rare salmon or 16 minutes for medium. Pull from the oven and let rest before serving.

While the salmon is resting, heat the sauté pan over medium to medium high, add the olive oil, pine nuts, raisins, and chopped roasted garlic, and simmer for 1 minute. Add the arugula or spinach, season with salt and pepper, and cook until just wilted, 1 to 3 minutes, tossing with tongs constantly to mix the ingredients. (Add the arugula in batches, if necessary; when the first batch wilts, add the next and toss).

To serve: Using tongs, carefully spread the arugula loosely on the bottom of each plate, almost in a ring. Carefully slide a spatula under a bed of potatoes, lift the potatoes and salmon together, and set them in the center of the plate over the greens. Drizzle a generous 1 tsp. lemon oil over all. Repeat with the remaining salmon. Serve immediately.

Salmon Fillets with Herbed Leeks

A bed of herbed leeks perfumes baked fish and makes a delicious garnish. Halibut or snapper would work as nicely as salmon.

For the fish:

4 salmon fillets (6 oz. each)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil
4 leaves fresh sage
4 sprigs fresh thyme
Grated zest of 1/2 lemon

For the leeks:

1 Tbs. unsalted butter
2 Tbs. olive oil
3 large or 4 medium leeks (root and dark green parts removed), diced (to yield 3 cups), washed, and dried
1/2 tsp. salt; more to taste
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 Tbs. minced fresh sage
1 Tbs. minced fresh thyme
Freshly ground black pepper

Season the fish fillets with salt and pepper. Drizzle them lightly with olive oil, rub them with the sage and thyme, and spread with the lemon zest. Lay a sage leaf and a sprig of thyme on each fillet. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to an hour.

Heat the oven to 400°F. In a wide, heavy sauté pan, heat the butter and olive oil until very hot. Add the diced leeks, stir to coat well, and reduce the heat to medium low. Salt them lightly, stir again, and continue to cook slowly until the leeks are soft, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding a few tablespoons of water if the pan gets too dry or the leeks are browning too much. Add the garlic, chopped herbs, salt, and pepper and cook for a few minutes until the garlic is soft and fragrant. Spread the leeks in the bottom of a 2-1/2-qt. ovenproof baking dish. Lay the fish fillets on top and bake until a paring knife inserted in the fish feels warm when touched to your lip, about 20 minutes. To serve, spoon the herbed leeks over each fillet.

Smoked Salmon & Cucumber Tea Sandwiches

1/2 cup crème fraîche
3 Tbs. chopped fresh dill
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
One-half medium English cucumber
8 large slices pumpernickel bread, each cut into four 2-inch triangles
1/4 lb. thinly sliced cold-smoked salmon, cut into 16 pieces

In a small bowl, mix the crème fraîche with the dill and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Peel the cucumber. Then, using the peeler, shave 16 wide strips from several sides of the cucumber (discard the seed core). In a medium bowl, toss the cucumber strips with 1/4 tsp. salt and let sit until softened, about 10 minutes. Pat dry with paper towels.

Spread the creme fraiche generously on one side of each bread triangle (you may not use it all). Top half of the triangles with a folded cucumber strip, a curl of the salmon, and a grind of black pepper. Set the remaining bread on top and serve.

Herb-Buttermilk-Marinated Salmon with Cucumber Salad

The salmon is delicious either warm or at room temperature.

For the salmon

2 cups buttermilk
1/2 cup lightly packed fresh basil leaves, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup lightly packed fresh cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions (about 6 medium scallions)
1/4 cup white vinegar
2 Tbs. honey
1 Tbs. ground ginger
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 sides of salmon (3 lb. each), skin and pin bones removed

For the cucumber salad:

3 large English cucumbers, cut in half lengthwise, seeded, and sliced crosswise (about 9-1/2 cups)
1 large red onion, cut in half and thinly sliced (about 2 cups)
1 cup pitted Kalamata olives, cut in half
1 cup crumbled feta cheese
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Marinate and roast the salmon:

In a food processor, combine the buttermilk, basil, cilantro, scallions, vinegar, honey, ginger, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/8 tsp. pepper. Process until smooth, about 30 seconds. Set aside 3/4 cup for the salad.

Thirty minutes before roasting the salmon, pour the remaining marinade over the salmon in a large rimmed dish and let sit at room temperature. (For the best texture, don't marinate longer than 30 minutes.)

While the salmon is marinating, position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with foil. When ready to roast the salmon, remove it from the marinade and set on the baking sheet. Bake until just firm to the touch and opaque in the center (use a paring knife to peek), 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest in the pan for 10 minutes.

Make the salad:

In a medium bowl, mix the cucumbers, onion, olives, cheese, and 1-1/2 tsp. salt. Toss with the reserved buttermilk dressing and season to taste with more salt and pepper.

Serve:

Use two large spatulas to carefully move the salmon to a platter. Spoon some of the cucumber salad around the salmon and serve the rest in a bowl on the side.

A New York Breakfast

There's something about the combination of silky smoked salmon, soft cream cheese, crunchy onion and juicy tomato that is more than the sum of its parts. In this recipe, excerpted from The Food You Crave, thinly sliced pumpernickel takes the place of the massive bagel (which is equivalent to 4 to 5 pieces of bread) for a sensible breakfast that's simple, sophisticated, modern, and classic all at once.

8 pieces thin pumpernickel bread (3-1/2 inches square)
1/4 cup whipped cream cheese
8 oz. thinly sliced smoked slamon
1/2 red onion, thinly sliced
1/4 English cucumber, thinly sliced
2 medium ripe tomatoes, cored, seeded, and diced
2 tsp. chopped fresh chives
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Toast the bread, then spread 1-1/2 tsp. of cream cheese on top of each piece. Put a slice of smoked slamon, a couple of slices of onion, a slice or two of cucumber, and about 1 Tbs. of chopped tomato on top. Sprinkle with the chives and season with salt and pepper.

Fresh Salmon Croque Madame

A classic Croque Madame is a grilled cheese sandwich with a fried egg on top. In this version, the soft yolk becomes a delicious sauce for an open-faced sandwich of grilled salmon on a bed of Swiss chard.

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 small bunch Swiss chard or other leafy green, washed, dried
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 1/2-inch-thick slices country hearth bread
1 clove garlic, peeled
2 Tbs. cream cheese
1 Tbs. capers, drained and rinsed
Two 4-oz. salmon fillets, skin removed
1 Tbs. unsalted butter
2 large eggs

Heat 1 Tbs. of the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the Swiss chard and cook until wilted and soft, stirring occasionally, 5 to 7 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set aside to cool slightly.

Heat a panini or sandwich press according to the manufacturer's instructions. Brush both sides of each slice of bread with 1 Tbs. of the olive oil. Place on the press, pull the top down, and cook until toasted, 1 to 2 minutes. Rub one side of each toasted slice with the garlic clove. Spread 1 Tbs. of cream cheese on each slice. Sprinkle with the capers.

Brush the salmon on both sides with the remaining 2 Tbs. olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place the salmon on the press, pull the top down, and cook until seared and cooked to your desired degree of doneness, at least 3 minutes.

While the salmon is cooking, heat the butter in a medium skillet. Carefully crack the eggs into the skillet, taking care not to break the yolks. Sprinkle 1 tsp. water onto each egg and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover the skillet and cook on medium-high heat until the whites are firm and the yolks are still soft, 2 to 3 minutes.

Arrange the cooked greens on top of the cream cheese, place a salmon fillet on top of each bed of greens, and slide a fried egg on top of each piece of salmon. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Salmon, Mushroom & Dill Quiche

I like to serve this quiche with a crunchy cucumber salad, dressed with a little sour cream and dill; together they make a nice supper. Use poached, sautéed, or baked salmon; or you can cook raw salmon fillet by microwaving it on high for 6 to 8 minutes (or until just cooked through).

3 Tbs. unsalted butter
1/2 lb. small cremini mushrooms, stems removed, caps thinly sliced
4 medium scallions (2 inches of green removed), thinly sliced
2 extra-large eggs
2 extra-large egg yolks
1-1/2 cups heavy cream
3/4 lb. (12 oz.) cooked salmon, flaked or broken apart into bite-size pieces (about 1-1/4 cups)
3 Tbs. finely minced fresh dill, plus 8 to 10 small whole dill sprigs for garnish
1/3 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 tsp. kosher salt
1/4 tsp. freshly ground pepper (preferably white)
1 partially baked tart shell in a 12-inch porcelain quiche pan or a 12-1/2-inch metal tart pan

In a 10-inch skillet, melt half of the butter over medium heat. Raise the heat to medium high. Add the sliced mushrooms and sauté, stirring frequently, until they’re nicely browned around the edges and somewhat softened. Add the rest of the butter and the scallions and cook until the scallions are soft. Set aside to cool.

In a bowl, whisk the eggs, yolks, and heavy cream until smooth and well blended. Add the mushroom-scallion mixture, the flaked salmon, the minced dill, and the Parmigiano. Season with the salt and pepper.

Heat the oven to 350°F. If using a tart pan with a removable bottom, put it on a baking sheet. Pour the salmon and mushroom mixture into the prepared shell, making sure that the filling is evenly distributed, and bake until the custard is set and the tip of a knife comes out clean and the top is golden brown, 40 to 45 minutes. Let cool for 15 to 20 minutes before serving. Garnish each serving with a sprig of fresh dill.

Smoked Salmon, Goat Cheese, and Artichoke Quiche

The high-sided, free-form crust makes this spring quiche an especially elegant addition to brunch. If you can’t find hot-smoked salmon, cold-smoked will also be scrumptious, although it will lose some of its silky texture once it’s baked.

For the crust:

9 oz. (2 cups) all-purpose flour
2 tsp. granulated sugar
1 tsp. kosher salt
8 oz. (1 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
4-6 T bs. ice water

For the filling:

1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter
1/2 medium red onion, thinly sliced crosswise (1 cup)
24 frozen artichoke heart quarters, thawed
4 large eggs
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup whole milk
1 T bs. roughly chopped fresh dill
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Pinch nutmeg
6 oz. hot-smoked salmon, skin removed and roughly broken into 1/2-inch pieces (1 cup)
4 oz. fresh goat cheese, crumbled (3/4 cup)

Make the crust:

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the flour, sugar, and salt on low speed. Add the butter and mix until the largest pieces are the size of peas. With the mixer still on low, add the ice water 1 Tbs. at a time until the dough just begins to come together— you may not need all the water. Transfer the dough to a piece of plastic and shape it into a disk. Wrap in the plastic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Roll the dough on a lightly floured surface into a 15-inch circle about 1/4 inch thick. Transfer to a 9-inch springform pan and press the dough into the bottom and up the sides, pressing any pleats flat against the sides. With scissors, unevenly snip any dough that overhangs the rim, to make a jagged edge. Prick the bottom of the crust all over with a fork. Freeze for 20 minutes.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Line the frozen crust with two overlapping sheets of parchment and fill two-thirds of the way with dried beans. Bake until the sides are set, about 25 minutes. Remove the beans and parchment and bake until the crust just begins to brown lightly, another 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool on a rack. Meanwhile, raise the oven temperature to 400°F.

Make the filling:

Melt the butter in a 10-inch sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and turning translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the artichoke hearts and cook until softened and slightly browned, another 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.

Beat the eggs in a medium bowl with the cream, milk, 1 tsp. of the dill, 1/4 tsp. salt, 1/4 tsp. pepper, and the nutmeg.

Put the springform pan on a rimmed baking sheet. Pour about half of the egg mixture into the crust. Bake in the oven until the filling is partially set (it will still be slightly runny), about 20 minutes.

Scatter half of the onion and artichoke mixture over the partially set egg mixture. Distribute half of the salmon and goat cheese on top. Pour on the remaining egg mixture and then scatter the remaining onions, artichokes, salmon, and goat cheese over the egg. Sprinkle the remaining dill over the top.

Bake until the center is just set (use a paring knife to peek), another 40 to 50 minutes. Check about halfway through baking; if the crust seems to be browning too fast, shield it with strips of foil. Cool slightly on a wire rack.

To unmold, remove the springform ring and loosen the quiche from the pan’s bottom by running a thin-bladed knife between the two. Slide the quiche off its base onto a serving plate. Serve warm or at room temperature, cut in wedges.

Sear-Roasted Salmon Fillets with Lemon-Ginger Butter

Warming the lemon juice makes it easier to mix it into the softened butter. Wrapped well, the compound butter keeps for weeks in the freezer.

6 Tbs. butter, well softened at room temperature
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice, warmed slightly
2 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
2 Tbs. snipped fresh chives
Olive oil for the pan
4 salmon fillets (5 oz. each), skinned if you like, patted dry
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a bowl, blend the butter, lemon juice, ginger, and chives well. Set aside at room temperature.

Heat the oven to 500°F. Set a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat and add just enough oil to make a light film. Sprinkle the salmon lightly with salt and pepper. When the oil is very hot, add the salmon, skin side up, and cook until nicely browned, about 1 minute. Flip the fish over and put the skillet in the oven. Roast for 2 minutes for medium rare; 4 minutes for medium well. Check for doneness with the tip of a knife. Remove the pan from the oven, transfer the fish to serving plates, and immediately top the salmon with a dab of the lemon-ginger butter.

Smoked Salmon and Dill Quiche

Like a cream-cheese-and-lox bagel in quiche form, this is the ultimate brunch centerpiece.

For the crust

4-1/2 oz. (1 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tsp. granulated sugar
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
4-1/2 oz. (9 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut into 9 pieces
1 large egg yolk
2 Tbs. cold whole or 2% milk

For the filling

8 large egg yolks
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
1/4 cup chopped fresh dill
1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 oz. cream cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
3/4 cup diced smoked salmon (about 4 oz.)
1/4 cup diced red onion

Make and blind bake the crust

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, sugar, and salt. Add the butter and mix on low speed until the flour is no longer bright white, the dough holds together when you press a clump with your fingers, and there are still flakes of butter the size of pecan halves throughout, about 1 minute. (Alternatively, use a pastry cutter or your fingers to work the butter into the dry ingredients until there are pea-size pieces of butter throughout.)

In a small bowl, whisk the yolk and milk, then add it all at once to the flour mixture. Mix on low speed (or with a fork) until the dough barely comes together, 15 to 30 seconds in the mixer, longer by hand. The dough will look shaggy at this point.

Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface and gather it into a mound. Starting at the top of the mound and using the heel of your hand, smear a section of the dough away from you, sliding it down the side and along the work surface until most of the butter pieces are smeared into the dough. Repeat with the remaining dough in sections.

With a bench knife, gather the dough together, flatten it into a disk about 1 inch thick, and wrap it in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

On a well-floured work surface, using a floured rolling pin, roll out the dough into a 12-inch-wide, 1/8-inch-thick circle. Roll the dough around the rolling pin and unroll it over a 9- to 10-inch quiche dish, or a 9- to 9-1/2-inch pie plate. Without stretching it, press the dough gently into the bottom and sides of the dish. Use scissors or a paring knife to trim the dough, leaving a 3/4-inch overhang.

If using a quiche dish, fold the overhang into the dish and press the sides up to create an edge that’s about 1/4 inch above the rim of the dish. If using a pie plate, fold the overhang under itself and flatten it slightly to completely cover the rim of the pie plate. Crimp decoratively.

Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to allow the dough to relax before baking.

Position a rack in the center of the oven, put a large rimmed baking sheet on it, and heat the oven to 350°F.

Crumple a 12-inch square of parchment, flatten it, then line the crust with it. Fill the crust to the top with dried beans, gently pressing them against the sides. Bake on the hot baking sheet until the edge is a deep golden-brown and the bottom no longer looks raw (carefully pull back the parchment to check; if using a glass pie plate, you can see if the underside is golden), 40 to 45 minutes; protect the edge with a pie shield or ring of foil if it’s getting too dark. Remove the parchment and beans (and pie shield if necessary) and cool on a rack to room temperature, about 30 minutes.

Make the filling and bake the quiche

In a medium bowl or large liquid measure, whisk together the yolks, cream, milk, dill, nutmeg, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Put the blind-baked crust on the rimmed baking sheet and scatter the cream cheese, salmon, and onion over the bottom, being sure they are evenly distributed. Whisk the custard and slowly pour it into the crust, taking care not to shuffle the add-ins around too much.

Cover the edge of the crust with a pie shield or a ring of foil to keep it from browning too much. Carefully transfer the quiche on the baking sheet to the oven and bake at 325°F until the custard feels set to the touch in the center, 45 to 55 minutes. It should be golden-brown and slightly puffed and should not slosh when you jiggle it.

Let cool on a rack for at least 45 minutes, then slice and serve warm or at room temperature. Or, for the best-looking slices, cool the quiche completely, then refrigerate, slice when cold, and reheat.

Salmon Brochettes with Sliced Fennel Vinaigrette

An arugula and red onion salad would make a nice complement to these brochettes. The vinaigrette can double as a salad dressing.

For the fennel vinaigrette:

1 clove garlic, peeled
2 anchovy fillets
1 Tbs. capers, rinsed
1 tsp. grainy mustard
2 shallots, thinly sliced
1/4 medium bulb fresh fennel, outer leaves removed, cored, and thinly sliced crosswise
1/2 tsp. fresh thyme
1/2 tsp. crushed fennel seeds
1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice; more as needed
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the brochettes:

One 4-lb. fresh skin-on salmon fillet
Kosher salt
Olive oil for brushing

Make the vinaigrette:

Mince together the garlic, anchovies, and capers. Transfer to a bowl and add the mustard, shallots, fennel, thyme, fennel seeds, red pepper flakes, and lemon juice. Stir briefly. Mix in the olive oil with a fork. Season with salt and pepper. Taste the vinaigrette; it should be slightly acidic, so add more lemon juice if necessary. Let stand for at least 1 hour so the fennel softens and the flavors mingle.

Make the brochettes:

Heat a gas grill to medium high or prepare a medium hot charcoal fire. Cut the salmon crosswise into 1-inch-wide strips, 3 to 4 oz. each. Thread the skewers through the salmon strips: starting at the tapered end, carefully pierce the flesh, pushing the skewer all the way through to the fat end until the point pokes through.

When the grill is just on the hot side of medium (you should be able to hold your hand just above the grate for 2 seconds), use tongs to clean the grate with a lightly oiled paper towel.

Season the salmon lightly with salt and brush lightly with olive oil. Put the brochettes on the grill, skin side down, keeping the exposed skewer ends away from the fire if using bamboo.

The salmon will cook quickly but not always at the same rate. Cook until the skin is crisp and it “releases” from the grill, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn the brochettes with tongs or a spatula and cook another 1 minute. If necessary, turn again and cook another 1 minute. The salmon is done when the flesh feels firm and almost begins to flake apart. Put the brochettes on a platter and drizzle immediately with the vinaigrette.

Spice-Cured Salmon with Beets & Horseradish Cream

Cured salmon (gravad lax) is quintessentially Scandinavian. I have a recipe for every season, but this is our Christmas favorite thanks to the festive warm spices and orange zest. I love the combination of tangy raw beets and spicy horseradish cream with the silky, citrusy salmon. It makes an elegant first course and a deliciously cool counterpoint to hot White Wine & Elderflower Gløgg. To save time, you can substitute cream-style prepared horseradish for the fresh horseradish cream, though the flavor won’t be the same.

For the salmon

2 Tbs. black peppercorns
2 Tbs. coriander seeds
20 whole cloves
20 green cardamom pods
9 oz. kosher salt (about 1-3/4 cups Diamond Crystal or 1 cup Morton’s)
1-1/2 cups granulated sugar
2 Tbs. finely grated orange zest (from 2 oranges)
1 4-lb. skin-on salmon fillet (preferably wild), belly flap trimmed and pin bones removed

For the beets and horseradish cream

3 medium red beets, peeled, halved, and very thinly sliced
1/4 cup cider vinegar
3/4 cup crème fraîche
3/4 cup finely grated fresh horseradish
1-1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For serving

Rye crispbreads, such as Finn Crisp or Wasa
Fresh dill sprigs
Lemon wedges

Cure the salmon

With a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, finely grind the peppercorns, coriander, cloves, and cardamom pods. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in the salt, sugar, and orange zest.

Arrange several long pieces of plastic wrap on a large rimmed baking sheet. Put the salmon on the plastic skin side down, cover the flesh evenly with the salt mixture, and wrap tightly. Refrigerate for 4 days.

Make the beets and horseradish cream

In a medium bowl, toss the beets with 2 Tbs. of the vinegar; let stand for at least 30 minutes.

In a small bowl, whisk the crème fraîche, horseradish, sugar, and the remaining 2 Tbs. vinegar; season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate.

Serve

Unwrap the salmon and rinse under cold running water to remove the curing mixture. Pat dry with paper towels. Transfer to a cutting board and very thinly slice the salmon (Using a long, thin, sharp knife, slice the salmon as thinly as you can. Starting at the wider end if the filet, hold the knife at a 45-degree angle and try for slices so thin that you can see the knife through the salmon). Slice only as much as you need. Garnish with the dill sprigs and serve with the beets, horseradish cream, crispbreads, and lemon wedges.

Poached Arctic Char with Brown Butter and Shiitake

Nutty brown butter and tart fresh lemon complement arctic char’s rich flavor, and the accompanying shiitake and sugar snap peas add texture and earthy sweetness. If you can’t find arctic char, use wild-caught Pacific salmon instead.

4 5- to 6-oz. skinless arctic char fillets (about 3/4 inch thick)
Kosher salt
6 oz. (3/4 cup) plus 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
8 thin lemon slices plus 1 Tbs. juice (from 1 medium lemon)
4 quart-size Ziploc storage or freezer bags
8 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and quartered (4 cups)
4 oz. sugar snap peas, strings removed and thinly sliced on the diagonal (1-3/4 cup)
1/2 tsp. toasted sesame seeds
1/8 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

Pat the fish dry and season on both sides with 1 tsp. salt total. Transfer to a plate, cover with plastic wrap, and chill for 1 to 2 hours.

Have ready a small, fine strainer set over a small heatproof bowl. In a 1- to 2-quart saucepan, melt the 3/4 cup butter with 4 of the lemon slices over medium heat, swirling frequently, until the milk solids turn golden-brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Immediately strain the butter, pressing on and then discarding the lemon slices. Let cool to room temperature.

Divide the butter and the remaining 4 lemon slices among the 4 bags. Put 1 piece of fish in each bag. Seal the bags, pressing out as much air as possible, and gently massage the fish to coat it all over.

Fill a 4-quart pot with 3 inches of water and clip a deep-fat, probe, or instant-read thermometer to the side of the pot. Heat the water slowly over low heat to 140°F, about 15 minutes. Put the bags of fish in the water (the tops of the bags can stick out) and cook, maintaining a water temperature of 135°F to 145°F, until the center of the fish registers 130°F to 135°F on an instant-read thermometer (open the bags to check), 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer the bags to a rimmed baking sheet and let sit for 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt the remaining 2 Tbs. butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat until foamy, then add the mushrooms and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring often, until the mushrooms are light golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the peas and 2 Tbs. of water and cook, stirring often, until the peas are bright green and crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Add 1/4 tsp. of the sesame seeds and the red pepper flakes, then season to taste with salt.

Using scissors, snip off one corner of each bag and drain the butter into a small bowl. Stir the lemon juice into the butter and set aside. Divide the mushrooms and sugar snap peas among 4 dinner plates. Open each bag and cut down the center perpendicular to the seal. Using a spatula, lift the fillets from the bags and arrange on top of the vegetables. Pour the reserved lemon-butter mixture over the fish, garnish with the lemon slices and the remaining 1/4 tsp. sesame seeds, and serve.

Broiled Salmon with a Ragoût of Lentils & Root Vegetables

The earthy, smoky flavor of the lentil and root-vegetable ragoût is a classic flavor pairing for broiled salmon, since it's assertive enough to stand up to the bold flavor of the fish. For the lentil ragoût, you can be flexible with the ingredients. If I can’t find smoked pork shoulder, I often use smoked turkey sausage.

For the lentils:

1 cup dried small green French lentils (also called du Puy lentils)
6 oz. smoked pork shoulder butt, smoked pork hock, double-smoked bacon, or smoked turkey sausage, cut into large cubes
1 small onion, peeled and stuck with a clove
1 small carrot, peeled and halved
1 bouquet garni (a few sprigs fresh parsley, 2 sprigs fresh thyme, and 1 bay leaf)

Tip:

Du Puy lentils are tiny green French lentils that hold their shape well when cooked and have a particularly nice earthy flavor.

For the vegetables:

2 Tbs. olive oil
1 large carrot, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
2 small turnips (about 7 oz. total), peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Tbs. unsalted butter
1/2 cup finely diced bacon (2 thick slices)
1 Tbs. finely minced shallot
2 tsp. finely minced garlic (about 4 medium cloves)
3/4 cup reserved lentil broth

For the salmon:

3 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted
4 skinless, center-cut salmon fillets (about 6 to 7 oz. each)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Minced fresh flat-leaf parsley for garnish

Cook the lentils:

In a large saucepan, combine the lentils, pork butt, onion, carrot, and bouquet garni and cover with water by 2 inches. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer, covered, until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Reserve 3/4 cup of the cooking liquid, drain the lentils, discard the vegetables and pork, and set the lentils aside.

Cook the vegetables:

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the carrot and turnips, season with salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until just tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and return the skillet to medium heat. Melt the butter, add the bacon, and cook until almost crisp. Transfer to paper towels with a slotted spoon and set aside. Pour off all but 2 Tbs. of the fat. Add the shallot and garlic to the pan and cook for 1 minute without browning. Add the reserved lentils, sautéed vegetables, bacon, and reserved lentil broth; simmer until the broth has been completely absorbed by the lentils, 3 to 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

Cook the salmon:

Position an oven rack about 6 inches from the broiler and a second rack in the center of the oven. Heat the broiler on high. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil and brush the foil lightly with some of the melted butter. Lay the salmon fillets, skin side down, on the foil; brush the tops and sides generously with the remaining butter and season with salt and pepper. Broil the salmon on the upper rack until the top is nicely browned, about 8 minutes. It should feel fairly firm when pressed with a fingertip and be slightly translucent in the middle if flaked. It will continue to cook a bit on its own once out of the oven, but if it's still a little rare, turn off the broiler, immediately turn the oven on to 400°F, move the baking sheet to the center rack, and shut the oven door. Bake the salmon until just done, 1 to 2 minutes. Mound the lentils and vegetables on warm dinner plates and set a fillet on top. Garnish with the parsley and serve at once.

Salmon Burgers with Herb Aïoli

Looking to change up your beef burger routine right about now? Fresh salmon makes a great burger. You'll need to remove the salmon's pin bones with small tweezers or pliers, or ask your fishmonger to remove the bones before you leave the market. Ripe tomato slices sprinkled with salt and pepper would be a colorful addition to these burgers.

2 small cloves garlic
Kosher salt
1-1/2 cups mayonnaise
1/3 cup finely chopped fresh chives
2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh dill
1-1/2 Tbs. Dijon mustard
1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
1/8 tsp. cayenne
Freshly ground black pepper
5 brioche or hamburger buns, 1 cut into large cubes, the other 4 split
1 lb. skinless salmon fillets, preferably wild, pin bones removed, cut into 1-inch pieces (about 2 cups)
2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter

Chop the garlic. Using the flat side of a chef’s knife, mash the garlic to a paste with a pinch of salt. Transfer the garlic paste to a small bowl and stir in the mayonnaise, chives, dill, mustard, lemon juice, cayenne, 1/4 tsp. pepper, and salt to taste. Set the aïoli aside.

In a food processor, pulse the cubed bun into crumbs. Set aside 1/2 cup of the crumbs and save the rest for another use. Pulse the salmon until coarsely chopped, about 5 pulses. Transfer the salmon to a medium bowl and stir in 3/4 cup of the aïoli, the reserved breadcrumbs, 1/4 tsp. salt, and 1/8 tsp. pepper. Shape into four 1-inch-thick patties.

Heat 2 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When melted and hot (but not smoking or brown), add the patties and cook until they are firm and each side is crisp and golden-brown, 3 to 5 minutes per side.

Meanwhile, position a rack 6 inches from the broiler and heat the broiler on high. Melt the remaining 2 Tbs. butter in a microwave or on the stovetop. Brush it on the insides of the split buns. Put the buns on a baking sheet, butter side up, and toast under the broiler until light goldenbrown, 1 to 2 minutes.

Serve the burgers on the buns, spread with the remaining aïoli.

Smoked Salmon Rolls

1/4 lb. cream cheese, at room temperature
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
2 Tbs. plus 2 tsp. thinly sliced fresh chives
Kosher salt
3/4 cup shaved fresh fennel
8 oz. thinly sliced smoked salmon (not hot-smoked)
1 Tbs. finely chopped fennel fronds

Tip:

You can mix the cream cheese up to one day ahead and refrigerate it in an airtight container. Bring it to room temperature before using. The rolls can be assembled, covered, and refrigerated up to 4 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature for about 15 minutes before serving.

In a small bowl, mix the cream cheese, lemon juice, zest, chives, and 1/8 tsp. salt.

To assemble, lay an 8 or 9-inch long sheet of plastic wrap on the counter. Slightly overlap slices of salmon on the plastic to create a rectangle measuring about 3-1/2x7 inches. The long side of the rectangle should be parallel to the edge of your work surface. Cover with another sheet of plastic and press gently with your hands or a flat spatula to encourage the salmon to stick together. Remove the top sheet of plastic. Using a thin metal offset spatula or a butter knife, spread about 2 Tbs. of the cream cheese mixture on the salmon, leaving a 1/2-inch border along the long sides. Arrange about a third of the fennel shavings lengthwise on the lower half of the salmon. Sprinkle the fennel lightly with salt. Starting at the long side closest to you and using the plastic wrap as an aid, gently roll up the salmon to enclose the filling. Gently press the roll together at the seams. Transfer the roll to a cutting board. Cut the roll into 6 pieces. Repeat with the remaining salmon, cream cheese mixture, and fennel to make 2 more rolls. You may have extra salmon or fennel.

Arrange the rolls on a platter, cut side up. Garnish with the chopped fennel fronds.

Grilled Salmon Steaks with Sea Salt, Chile & Lime Butter

The subtle spiciness of French Basque piment d’Espelette chile powder is perfect for this butter, though crushed red pepper flakes make a fine substitute. If your market is out of good salmon steaks, try substituting halibut steaks.

For the butter:

1/4 lb. (8 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened to room temperature
3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh cilantro
2 tsp. fresh lime juice
1 tsp. coriander seeds, lightly toasted and coarsely ground
3/4 tsp. freshly grated lime zest
1/2 tsp. coarse sea salt, like fleur de sel or sel gris
1/2 tsp. piment d’Espelette chile powder or crushed red pepper flakes
1/4 tsp. minced garlic

For the salmon:

1-1/2 Tbs. olive oil; more for brushing the grill
Four to six 1-1/4-inch-thick salmon steaks (6 to 8 oz. each)
1 tsp. kosher salt

Make the butter:

Beat the butter in a small bowl with a spoon to loosen it. Mix in the remaining ingredients until they’re evenly distributed. Scrape the butter onto a sheet of parchment or plastic wrap and roll it into a neat log, using the parchment or plastic as a guide. Twist the ends and refrigerate the butter until firm, about 1 hour. Keep the butter chilled until ready to use.

Grill the salmon:

Clean and oil the grates on a gas grill and heat the grill to medium high, or prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire.

Meanwhile, generously coat both sides of the salmon with the oil and season both sides with salt. Let the salmon sit at room temperature for 15 minutes (while the grill heats). Grill the salmon steaks directly over the heat source (covered on a gas grill, uncovered on a charcoal grill), without touching, until they have good grill marks, 2 to 4 minutes. Flip the steaks and grill until the second sides have good grill marks and the fish is done to your liking, another 2 to 4 minutes. (Check for doneness by slicing into one of the thicker pieces.) When the salmon is nearly done, remove the butter from the refrigerator and slice it into thin rounds.

The second the salmon comes off the grill, top each steak with two rounds of butter. Serve immediately.

Grilled Salmon with Walnut-Arugula Pesto

Arugula gives this pesto a deliciously peppery finish, which complements the richness of the salmon.

1/4 cup walnut halves
2 cups loosely packed fresh arugula (2-1/2 oz.)
1 cup loosely packed fresh basil (about 1/2 oz.)
3 Tbs. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 medium clove garlic
5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more for the grill pan
Kosher salt
4 6- to 8-oz. skinless salmon fillets
Freshly ground black pepper

In a small skillet over medium heat, toast the walnuts, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and a shade darker, about 5 minutes. Let cool slightly on a plate, about 3 minutes, and then transfer to a food processor. Add the arugula, basil, Parmigiano, and garlic and process until the mixture is very finely chopped, about 1 minute. With the motor running, slowly add 4 Tbs. of the oil until well combined. If you like, add 1 Tbs. water to thin the pesto. Transfer to a bowl and season to taste with salt.

Heat a lightly oiled grill pan over medium-high heat. Rub the salmon fillets all over with the remaining 1 Tbs. oil. Sprinkle all over with 1/2 tsp. salt and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Put the fillets on the grill pan, skinned side up, and cook until well marked, about 5 minutes. Flip and continue to cook until opaque in the center, about 5 minutes more. Serve with the pesto.