Crème Caramel

Topped with a soft layer of caramel, these individual custard desserts aren’t too sweet—a bit of sour cream in the custard provides a hint of tanginess that marries well with the dark caramel notes. They’re easier to unmold while cold, so invert them 30 minutes before serving and then let them come to room temperature.

• 1-1/3 cups granulated sugar
• 1-1/4 cups whole milk
• 1-1/4 cups heavy cream
• 1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, or 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 3 large egg yolks
• 2 large eggs
• 1/8 tsp. table salt
• 1/4 cup full-fat sour cream
• 1 Tbs. brandy, rum, or bourbon

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Bring a large kettle of water to a boil.

Have ready eight 6-oz. oven-safe ramekins and a heatproof 2-cup measuring cup. Put 1 cup of the sugar in a heavy-duty 3-quart saucepan and stir in 1/3 cup water. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring until the sugar is melted, and bring to a boil, about 2 minutes. Brush the side of the pan with a pastry brush dipped in water to wash away any sugar crystals and continue to cook, without stirring, until the edges of the syrup begin to color, 3 to 5 minutes more. Gently swirl the pan to encourage even caramelization, and cook until the syrup turns dark amber, 1 to 2 minutes more.

Immediately pour the caramel into the measuring cup, then quickly distribute the hot caramel among the ramekins, swirling each ramekin to coat the bottom. Set aside.

Combine the milk and heavy cream in a 3-quart heavy-duty saucepan. If using a vanilla bean, scrape the seeds from the bean into the pan and add the bean. Bring just to a simmer over medium-high heat, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, whole eggs, the remaining 1/3 cup sugar, and the salt until smooth. Whisk in the sour cream and brandy. Remove the vanilla bean (if used) from the cream mixture and gradually whisk the cream mixture into the egg mixture. If using vanilla extract, stir it in. Skim off any foam.

Stir the custard if using a vanilla bean and pour or ladle it into the ramekins. Set the ramekins in a large roasting pan. Carefully pour the hot water into the roasting pan so that it comes halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover loosely with aluminum foil. Bake just until the centers of the custards wobble slightly when jiggled, 35 to 40 minutes.

Carefully transfer the ramekins to a rack to cool to room temperature (silicone-tipped tongs work well for this), about 30 minutes. Chill completely in the refrigerator, at least 4 hours (cover when cold).

About 30 minutes before serving, unmold the custards by placing the bottom of a ramekin in a small bowl of very hot water for 30 seconds to soften the caramel. Run a small knife around the edge of the custard to loosen. Put a small serving plate over the ramekin and invert. Holding the plate and ramekin together, shake firmly up and down, if necessary, to release the custard. Remove the ramekin (some caramel will stay in the ramekin). Repeat with the rest of the ramekins and let the custards stand at room temperature until ready to serve.

Pear Tarte Tatin with Almond Pastry

Caramelized pears take the place of apples in this classic dessert. The amounts for flour, butter, and nuts are listed by weight (ounces) and by volume (cups and tablespoons); use either measurement.

For the pastry:

• 4-1/4 oz. (1 cup) cake flour
• 4 oz. (8 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut into large pieces
• 1/2 tsp. table salt
• 1 tsp. granulated sugar
• 1-1/4 oz. (1/3 cup lightly packed) ground almonds
• 1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten
• 3 Tbs. heavy cream

For the caramelized pears:

• 3 lb. pears (about 6 large), peeled, halved, and cored
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger tossed with 1 tsp. sugar
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1/4 cup water
• 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter

Make the pastry:

In a food processor, combine the flour, butter, salt, and sugar. Pulse briefly until the mixture has pea-size lumps and the rest looks like cornmeal. Add the almonds and pulse for just another second. Mound the mixture on a work surface, make a well, and pour the egg yolk and cream into the center. With your fingertips, draw the flour mixture into the well. Continue mixing the ingredients until you have a shaggy dough. Knead the dough just until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Caramelize the pears and bake the tarte:

Cut the pear halves lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Toss them with the ginger-sugar mixture. Heat a 9-inch cast-iron or other heavy-based pan with an ovenproof handle over medium-high heat. Add the sugar and water; swirl the pan to combine. Watch the sugar syrup carefully as it bubbles. When it turns light brown, add the butter and cook, stirring gently with a wooden spoon, until the caramel is an even, deep brown. Remove the pan from the heat and let the caramel cool slightly. Carefully arrange the pear slices in the caramel in a single concentric layer. Top with additional pear slices, continuing the circular pattern until  the pears reach the top of the pan. (They’ll shrink as they cook.) Return the pan to medium-high heat and cook until the pears on the bottom layer are fork-tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly while you roll out the dough.

Heat the oven to 450°F. Roll out the dough on a floured surface into a 10-1/2-inch round and drape it over the pan of pears to cover. (If the dough is still cool, you can pick it up with your hands; otherwise, gently roll the dough onto the rolling pin to move it to the pan.) Fold the excess dough onto itself to form a rough border. Press the crust down onto the pears to compress them slightly.

Lower the oven temperature to 400°F. Bake the tarte until the pastry is crisp and golden brown, about 45 minutes. Let cool in the pan for about 15 minutes. Carefully invert the tarte onto a serving plate with a rim to catch the caramel. Pour any caramel that stays in the pan over the tarte.

Beef Daube Provençal

Regardless of how fancy this dish may sound, this is simple, satisfying country cooking.

• 4 lb. boneless lean rump roast, chuck pot roast, sirloin tip, top round, or bottom round, cut into 2-inch cubes
• 1 (750-ml) bottle dry red wine (such as Côtes du Rhône, Bandol, or Mourvèdre)
• 1 carrot, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 celery stalk, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 onion, preferably Vidalia, coarsely chopped
• 3 Tbs. pure olive oil, plus more if needed
• Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Bouquet garni (5 sprigs thyme; 4 sprigs flat-leaf parsley; 2 bay leaves, preferably fresh; and 10 whole black peppercorns, tied together in cheesecloth)
• 1 cup pitted green olives
• Finely grated zest of 2 oranges
• 1 Tbs. anchovy paste
• 6 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
• 1 cup homemade beef stock or reduced-fat, low-sodium beef stock, if needed

To marinate the beef, place the meat cubes in a large nonreactive bowl. Add the wine, carrot, celery, and onion. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to overnight.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with paper towels. Remove the beef from the marinade and transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Pat the meat dry with paper towels. Strain the marinade, reserving both the vegetables and the liquid separately.

To cook the beef, heat a large, heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add 2 Tbs. of the oil and heat until shimmering. Season the beef with salt and pepper. Working in two or three batches without crowding, sear the beef until nicely browned on all sides, about 5 minutes. Remove and discard the paper towels; transfer the beef to the prepared baking sheet when done. (In this case, it’s okay to use the same baking sheet for the raw and cooked beef because the meat will be cooked further.) Return the beef to the Dutch oven.

 

Tie the vegetables from the marinade in cheesecloth with cotton twine. (This makes it easier to purée the sauce later.) Add the bundle of vegetables, bouquet garni, olives, orange zest, anchovy paste, garlic, and reserved marinade to the pan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cover and transfer to the oven. Cook until the meat is tender, 3 to 3-1/2 hours.

Remove the bouquet garni from the Dutch oven and discard. Transfer the beef and olives with a slotted spoon to a bowl. Open the bundle of vegetables and add to the sauce. In the Dutch oven, using an immersion blender, purée the sauce and vegetables until smooth. Or, once the beef and olives are removed, ladle the sauce and vegetables into a blender a little at a time and purée until smooth. Cook the puréed sauce over medium-high heat until it coats the back of a spoon; if needed, thin with beef stock to achieve this consistency. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Return the beef and olives to the sauce and turn to coat. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Plum Clafoutis

Clafoutis is a traditional French dessert made by pouring a custard over fruit and baking it. Quickly sautéing the fruit first concentrates its juice and creates a flavorful syrup that permeates the custard. You can make this dessert with any ripe but relatively firm fruit that will remain intact, such as cherries, apricots, pears, or figs. 

• 1 Tbs. sliced almonds
• 7 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter; more for the pie plate
• 12 oz. (3 to 5 medium) red or black plums, pitted and quartered
• 1 Tbs. brandy
• 1 Tbs. amaretto
• 1-1/2 oz. (1/3 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1/4 tsp. table salt
• 3 large eggs
• 3/4 cup whole milk
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• Confectioners’ sugar for dusting

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Put the almonds in a 9-inch ceramic or metal pie plate and toast in the oven until pale golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer the nuts to a small bowl to cool, stir in 1 Tbs. of the sugar, and set aside. Return the pie plate to the oven and raise the temperature to 425°F.

Melt the butter in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter is bubbling and hot, add the plums, and cook, turning, until they begin to soften, 1 to 2 minutes. Sprinkle 3 Tbs. of the sugar over the fruit. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook until the sugar melts into the fruit juices and becomes a syrup, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn off the heat and stir in the brandy and amaretto.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, and the remaining 3 Tbs. sugar. Whisk in the eggs until the mixture is completely smooth; then whisk in the milk, cream, and vanilla.

Remove the pie plate from the oven and carefully butter it. Pour the fruit and syrup into the pie plate, spreading the fruit evenly.

Pour the custard over the fruit (the pie plate will be very full). Bake, sprinkling the reserved almond topping over the batter halfway through baking, until puffy and the center is set, about 15 minutes.

Let the clafoutis cool to warm, 10 to 15 minutes (it will deflate). Dust liberally with confectioners’ sugar and serve. 

Roasted Salmon with Mustard and Tarragon

Fresh tarragon pairs beautifully with salmon, and just a little goes a long way in this simple recipe.

• 1/4 cup mayonnaise
• 1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. coarse-grained Dijon mustard
• 2 tsp. fresh lime juice
• 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh tarragon
• 6 6-oz. center-cut, skin-on salmon fillets
• Kosher salt

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Line a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet with foil.

In a small bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, mustard, lime juice, and tarragon. Arrange the salmon skin side down on the baking sheet and sprinkle lightly with salt. Spread the mayonnaise mixture evenly over each fillet (there may be a little left over).

Roast the salmon until just cooked through, 10 to 14 minutes. (To test for doneness, poke a paring knife all the way through the thickest part of one fillet and hold it there for 5 seconds. Then touch the flat side of the knife gently to your lower lip. If the knife feels warm, the fish is cooked through.) Using a spatula, lift the fillets off the baking sheet, leaving the skin behind, and transfer to plates.

Salmon, Mushroom & Dill Quiche

I like to serve this quiche with a crunchy cucumber salad, dressed with a little sour cream and dill; together they make a nice supper. Use poached, sautéed, or baked salmon; or you can cook raw salmon fillet by microwaving it on high for 6 to 8 minutes (or until just cooked through).

• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1/2 lb. small cremini mushrooms, stems removed, caps thinly sliced
• 4 medium scallions (2 inches of green removed), thinly sliced
• 2 extra-large eggs
• 2 extra-large egg yolks
• 1-1/2 cups heavy cream
• 3/4 lb. (12 oz.) cooked salmon, flaked or broken apart into bite-size pieces (about 1-1/4 cups)
• 3 Tbs. finely minced fresh dill, plus 8 to 10 small whole dill sprigs for garnish
• 1/3 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 1 tsp. kosher salt
• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground pepper (preferably white)
• 1 partially baked tart shell in a 12-inch porcelain quiche pan or a 12-1/2-inch metal tart pan

In a 10-inch skillet, melt half of the butter over medium heat. Raise the heat to medium high. Add the sliced mushrooms and sauté, stirring frequently, until they’re nicely browned around the edges and somewhat softened. Add the rest of the butter and the scallions and cook until the scallions are soft. Set aside to cool.

In a bowl, whisk the eggs, yolks, and heavy cream until smooth and well blended. Add the mushroom-scallion mixture, the flaked salmon, the minced dill, and the Parmigiano. Season with the salt and pepper.

Heat the oven to 350°F. If using a tart pan with a removable bottom, put it on a baking sheet. Pour the salmon and mushroom mixture into the prepared shell, making sure that the filling is evenly distributed, and bake until the custard is set and the tip of a knife comes out clean and the top is golden brown, 40 to 45 minutes. Let cool for 15 to 20 minutes before serving. Garnish each serving with a sprig of fresh dill.

Smoked Salmon and Dill Quiche

Like a cream-cheese-and-lox bagel in quiche form, this is the ultimate brunch centerpiece.

For the crust

• 4-1/2 oz. (1 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 2 tsp. granulated sugar
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
• 4-1/2 oz. (9 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut into 9 pieces
• 1 large egg yolk
• 2 Tbs. cold whole or 2% milk

For the filling

• 8 large egg yolks
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1 cup whole milk
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh dill
• 1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 oz. cream cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
• 3/4 cup diced smoked salmon (about 4 oz.)
• 1/4 cup diced red onion

Make and blind bake the crust

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, sugar, and salt. Add the butter and mix on low speed until the flour is no longer bright white, the dough holds together when you press a clump with your fingers, and there are still flakes of butter the size of pecan halves throughout, about 1 minute. (Alternatively, use a pastry cutter or your fingers to work the butter into the dry ingredients until there are pea-size pieces of butter throughout.)

In a small bowl, whisk the yolk and milk, then add it all at once to the flour mixture. Mix on low speed (or with a fork) until the dough barely comes together, 15 to 30 seconds in the mixer, longer by hand. The dough will look shaggy at this point.

Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface and gather it into a mound. Starting at the top of the mound and using the heel of your hand, smear a section of the dough away from you, sliding it down the side and along the work surface until most of the butter pieces are smeared into the dough. Repeat with the remaining dough in sections.

With a bench knife, gather the dough together, flatten it into a disk about 1 inch thick, and wrap it in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

On a well-floured work surface, using a floured rolling pin, roll out the dough into a 12-inch-wide, 1/8-inch-thick circle. Roll the dough around the rolling pin and unroll it over a 9- to 10-inch quiche dish, or a 9- to 9-1/2-inch pie plate. Without stretching it, press the dough gently into the bottom and sides of the dish. Use scissors or a paring knife to trim the dough, leaving a 3/4-inch overhang.

If using a quiche dish, fold the overhang into the dish and press the sides up to create an edge that’s about 1/4 inch above the rim of the dish. If using a pie plate, fold the overhang under itself and flatten it slightly to completely cover the rim of the pie plate. Crimp decoratively.

Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to allow the dough to relax before baking.

Position a rack in the center of the oven, put a large rimmed baking sheet on it, and heat the oven to 350°F.

Crumple a 12-inch square of parchment, flatten it, then line the crust with it. Fill the crust to the top with dried beans, gently pressing them against the sides. Bake on the hot baking sheet until the edge is a deep golden-brown and the bottom no longer looks raw (carefully pull back the parchment to check; if using a glass pie plate, you can see if the underside is golden), 40 to 45 minutes; protect the edge with a pie shield or ring of foil if it’s getting too dark. Remove the parchment and beans (and pie shield if necessary) and cool on a rack to room temperature, about 30 minutes.

Make the filling and bake the quiche

In a medium bowl or large liquid measure, whisk together the yolks, cream, milk, dill, nutmeg, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Put the blind-baked crust on the rimmed baking sheet and scatter the cream cheese, salmon, and onion over the bottom, being sure they are evenly distributed. Whisk the custard and slowly pour it into the crust, taking care not to shuffle the add-ins around too much.

Cover the edge of the crust with a pie shield or a ring of foil to keep it from browning too much. Carefully transfer the quiche on the baking sheet to the oven and bake at 325°F until the custard feels set to the touch in the center, 45 to 55 minutes. It should be golden-brown and slightly puffed and should not slosh when you jiggle it.

Let cool on a rack for at least 45 minutes, then slice and serve warm or at room temperature. Or, for the best-looking slices, cool the quiche completely, then refrigerate, slice when cold, and reheat.

Poached Arctic Char with Brown Butter and Shiitake

Nutty brown butter and tart fresh lemon complement arctic char’s rich flavor, and the accompanying shiitake and sugar snap peas add texture and earthy sweetness. If you can’t find arctic char, use wild-caught Pacific salmon instead.

• 4 5- to 6-oz. skinless arctic char fillets (about 3/4 inch thick)
• Kosher salt
• 6 oz. (3/4 cup) plus 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 8 thin lemon slices plus 1 Tbs. juice (from 1 medium lemon)
• 4 quart-size Ziploc storage or freezer bags
• 8 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and quartered (4 cups)
• 4 oz. sugar snap peas, strings removed and thinly sliced on the diagonal (1-3/4 cup)
• 1/2 tsp. toasted sesame seeds
• 1/8 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

Pat the fish dry and season on both sides with 1 tsp. salt total. Transfer to a plate, cover with plastic wrap, and chill for 1 to 2 hours.

Have ready a small, fine strainer set over a small heatproof bowl. In a 1- to 2-quart saucepan, melt the 3/4 cup butter with 4 of the lemon slices over medium heat, swirling frequently, until the milk solids turn golden-brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Immediately strain the butter, pressing on and then discarding the lemon slices. Let cool to room temperature.

Divide the butter and the remaining 4 lemon slices among the 4 bags. Put 1 piece of fish in each bag. Seal the bags, pressing out as much air as possible, and gently massage the fish to coat it all over.

Fill a 4-quart pot with 3 inches of water and clip a deep-fat, probe, or instant-read thermometer to the side of the pot. Heat the water slowly over low heat to 140°F, about 15 minutes. Put the bags of fish in the water (the tops of the bags can stick out) and cook, maintaining a water temperature of 135°F to 145°F, until the center of the fish registers 130°F to 135°F on an instant-read thermometer (open the bags to check), 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer the bags to a rimmed baking sheet and let sit for 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt the remaining 2 Tbs. butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat until foamy, then add the mushrooms and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring often, until the mushrooms are light golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the peas and 2 Tbs. of water and cook, stirring often, until the peas are bright green and crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Add 1/4 tsp. of the sesame seeds and the red pepper flakes, then season to taste with salt.

Using scissors, snip off one corner of each bag and drain the butter into a small bowl. Stir the lemon juice into the butter and set aside. Divide the mushrooms and sugar snap peas among 4 dinner plates. Open each bag and cut down the center perpendicular to the seal. Using a spatula, lift the fillets from the bags and arrange on top of the vegetables. Pour the reserved lemon-butter mixture over the fish, garnish with the lemon slices and the remaining 1/4 tsp. sesame seeds, and serve.

Miso-Honey-Glazed Turnips

These turnips may not look like much, but one bite will make you say “wow.” The savory miso combined with sweet honey and peppery turnips is pure magic. Web extra: View an audio slideshow to hear the sound of the glaze as it crackles, indicating that it’s time to lower the heat.

• 1 lb. trimmed and peeled turnips, cut into 1-inch wedges (about 2-1/2 cups)
• 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 1 Tbs. white miso
• 1 Tbs. honey
• Kosher salt

Put the turnips in an 8-inch-wide, 3- to 4-quart saucepan and arrange snugly. Add butter, miso, honey, 1/2 tsp. salt, and enough water to just cover the turnips (about 2 cups). Bring to a boil over high heat.

Cook over high heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until most of the liquid has reduced to a syrupy glaze and the turnips are tender, 10 to 12 minutes. (If the glaze is done before the turnips, add about 1/2 cup water and continue to cook. If the turnips are done first, remove them and boil the liquid until syrupy.)

Lower the heat to medium and toss to coat the turnips with the glaze. Season to taste with salt and serve. (The glazed turnips can be kept warm, covered, for about 20 minutes.)

Spinach & Parmesan Gratin

This comforting, savory side dish is good with roasted or sautéed meats. Or pair it with a salad and serve it after a bowl of soup. You can also use this as a filling for crêpes.

• 2 lb. fresh spinach, stemmed, washed, and drained
• 1-1/2 cups milk or homemade or low-salt chicken broth
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter; more for the baking dish
• 1/2 medium yellow onion, finely diced (about 2/3 cup diced)
• 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1/4 tsp. kosher salt
• Pinch freshly ground black pepper
• Pinch ground cayenne
• 1-1/4 cups (3 oz.) freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano

Heat the oven to 350°F. Butter a medium (1-1/2- quart) shallow baking dish.

Fill a large pot about halfway with lightly salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the spinach in large handfuls, adding more as it wilts. When all the spinach is in the pot, blanch for 1 minute. Drain in a colander, running cold water over the spinach to cool it. Squeeze the cooled spinach to remove as much liquid as possible and then chop it coarsely.

Heat the milk or broth in a small saucepan or in the microwave until hot. Set a medium saucepan over medium heat and melt the butter. Add the onion and cook until translucent and softened but not colored, about 5 minutes. Stir in the flour, salt, pepper, and cayenne and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Slowly stir in the milk or broth, raise the heat to medium, and cook, stirring frequently, until the sauce bubbles and thickens, about 5 minutes.

When the sauce is ready, add 1 cup of the Parmigiano and stir until the cheese is melted and thoroughly combined. Take the pan off the heat and stir in the chopped spinach, mixing well. Taste and season with more salt if necessary. Scrape into the buttered baking dish, sprinkle the remaining 1/4 cup Parmigiano on top, and bake until the gratin is bubbly and the top is nicely browned, 35 to 40 minutes. Let it cool for a few minutes before serving.

Milk-Chocolate Pecan Lace Cookie Sandwiches

Choose cookies of the same size to pair together and let the milk chocolate for the filling cool and thicken slightly before spreading it on so it doesn’t drip through the lacy holes of the cookies.

• 2 oz. pecans (to yield 1/2 cup ground pecans)
• 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 1/3 cup granulated sugar
• 2 Tbs. light corn syrup
• 1-1/2 oz. (1/3 cup) all-purpose flour
• Pinch salt
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1/2 cup coarsely chopped pecans
• 4 oz. milk chocolate, chopped

Position racks in the middle and upper third of the oven. Heat the oven to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with nonstick liners, like Silpat brand, or with parchment.

In a food processor, grind the 2 oz. of pecans finely and measure out 1/2 cup. Heat the butter, sugar, and corn syrup in a medium saucepan over low heat, stirring often, until the butter melts and the sugar dissolves. Increase the heat to medium high and, stirring constantly, bring the mixture just to a boil. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the flour and salt until incorporated. Stir in the vanilla, the ground pecans, and chopped pecans.

Drop the batter by the teaspoon 3 inches apart on the baking sheets, about six cookies per baking sheet.  Bake the cookies until evenly light brown, 11 to 12  minutes total. About 5 minutes into baking, switch the sheets from top to bottom and back to front to promote even baking. The cookies won't begin to spread until about 6 minutes into baking.

Line a cooling rack with paper towels. Remove the cookies from the oven and, as soon as they're firm (which will take just a few minutes), use a wide spatula to transfer them to the rack to cool completely.

Melt the milk chocolate in a bowl in a microwave or over a water bath. Let it cool enough to thicken slightly.

Arrange the cookies in pairs of similar size. Turn half of the cookies bottom up. Leaving a 1/2-inch border around the edge, spread a thin layer of milk chocolate over the cookies that are bottom up. Gently place the remaining cookie, bottom down, onto the milk chocolate. Let the cookies sit until the filling firms, about 30 minutes.

Warm Chicken Pâté

It’s not traditional to serve chicken liver pâté warm, but it’s undeniably delicious. This decadent recipe uses both chicken livers and thighs for a milder flavor. Serve with toast points, crackers, or crudités.

• Vegetable oil, for the pan
• 10 oz. boneless, skinless chicken thighs (about 2)
• 4 oz. chicken livers
• 1/2 medium yellow onion
• 3 Tbs. amontillado sherry
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1-1/2 tsp. dried sage

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high. Lightly oil a large rimmed baking sheet.

Cut the chicken thighs into 1-inch chunks and arrange in a single layer on the sheet. Halve the chicken livers, and thinly slice the yellow onion; transfer both to the sheet with the chicken. Drizzle with 2 Tbs. of the sherry and season with 1 tsp. salt and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Broil until all are browned, the chicken and liver are cooked through, and the onions are soft, 5 to 6 minutes.

Meanwhile, put the butter, sage, and the remaining 1 Tbs. sherry in a food processor. Add the chicken, livers, and onion and process to a coarse purée, about 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve warm.

Creamy Parmesan Swiss Chard Gratin

I like the variety of Swiss chard called "Bright Lights," which has yellow and pink stalks, but any Swiss chard will work fine. The chard leaves just need wilting for this gratin, but be sure to sauté the stems until lightly browned; this softens their flavor.

• 1/2 cup toasted or stale coarse breadcrumbs
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter; more for coating the gratin pan
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 2 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
• 3 strips bacon (about 2-1/2 oz.)
• 1 lb. (about 1 bunch) Swiss chard, washed and drained, stems removed and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices, leaves cut into 1/2-inch wide ribbons (to yield about 2-3/4 cups stems and 7 to 8 cups leaves)
• 1/3 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Heat the oven to 400ºF. Butter a shallow 5- or 6-cup ceramic gratin dish. Melt 1 Tbs. of the butter and toss it with the breadcrumbs; set aside.

In a medium saucepan, bring the cream and garlic to a boil (watch that it doesn't boil over), immediately lower the heat, and simmer vigorously for 5 minutes; the cream should be reduced to about 3/4 cup. Take the pan off the heat and remove the garlic cloves with a slotted spoon. Let the cream cool slightly, stirring occasionally to loosen. Season it with a few grinds of fresh pepper and 1/4 tsp. of the salt.

Meanwhile, in a large (12-inch) nonstick skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until crisp and browned. With tongs, transfer it to paper towels; crumble when cool. Leave the bacon fat in pan (if there's more than 2 Tbs., drain a little off). Add the remaining 1 Tbs. butter to the skillet and let it melt. Add the chard stems and sauté them over medium to medium-high heat until they're somewhat softened and browned on the edges, about 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium, add the chard leaves and toss them with the contents of the skillet. Season them with the remaining 1/4 tsp. salt. (You can add the leaves in two batches for easier handling.) Sauté until all the leaves are wilted, about 2 minutes. Use tongs to transfer the contents of the pan to the gratin dish (leave behind any excess liquid in the sauté pan), spreading them evenly.

Sauté sliced chard stems first until tender; then add the leaves and wilt them.

Sprinkle the crumbled bacon and then the cheese over the chard. Pour the seasoned cream over all and top with the buttered breadcrumbs. Bake for 25 minutes; the gratin will be brown and bubbly. Let rest for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.

Braised Lamb Chops with Black Olives & Artichokes

Fresh artichokes taste great with lamb, but frozen hearts will do in a pinch: thaw them, pat them dry, and add them about half an hour after you’ve added the olives.

• 4 lamb shoulder blade or arm chops, 3/4 inch thick
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary
• 2 tsp. tomato paste
• 1 cup homemade or low-salt beef broth
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• Juice of 1 lemon
• 2 large artichokes
• 1/4 cup niçoise or other good-quality black olives, pitted

Heat a heavy, straight-sided skillet over medium-high heat. Season both sides of the chops with salt and peper. Add the oilve oil to the heated pan and then sear the chops on both sides until well browned, about 3 minutes per side (work in batches if necessary so you don't crowd the pan). Sprinkle the garlic and rosemary over the chops in the pan. Whisk the tomato paste into the beef broth and pour it over the chops; add the wine. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a slow simmer, cover the pan, and simmer for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the lemon juice with cool water in a bowl. Snap off the dark-green outer leaves of each artichoke. Cut off all but 1 inch of the stem, as well as the top third of the each artichoke. Trim the outside and bottom to remove the bases of the leaves and the tough outer part of the stem. Cut each in half. With a spoon, scoop out and discard the hairy choke and purple inner leaves. Cut each half into four wedges and put these in the acidulated water until ready to use.

After the lamb has simmered for 30 minutes, remove the artichokes from the water and stuff them between the chops in the pan. Sprinkle the olives over the chops. Continue simmering over low heat, covered, until the chops are very tender and the artichokes are cooked through,  40 to 45 minutes. Transfer the chops, artichokes, and olives to a platter; tent with toil to keep warm. If the pan juices are greasy, tilt the pan and spoon off the fat. Put two chops on each plate and spoon the artichokes, olives, and pan juices over them.

Braised Chicken Legs with Cider, Apples & Mustard

When chicken legs are simmered slowly, the meat becomes
wonderfully tender and falls off the bone; at the same time, it develops a
rich, deep flavor. Use dry hard cider (which is alcoholic) for this recipe, not fresh sweet cider.

• 4 bone-in, skin-on medium chicken thighs (1-1/2 to 1-3/4 lb.)
• 4 chicken drumsticks (1-1/4 to 1-1/2 lb.)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 2 medium apples such as Rome, Spy, or Mutsu, peeled, cored, and cut into sixths
• 2 cups dry hard apple cider
• 1/4 cup Dijon mustard
• 3 large marjoram sprigs
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh marjoram

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350ºF.

Season the chicken pieces generously with salt and pepper. In a straight-sided 10- or 11-inch ovenproof sauté pan with a lid, heat the oil over mediumhigh heat until very hot. Arrange the chicken pieces skin side down in the pan (it’ll be crowded), cover with a splatter screen, if you have one, and cook until deeply browned, about 5 minutes. Turn the pieces over and cook until the other sides are deeply browned, 3 to 5 minutes more. Transfer to a plate. Pour out and discard all but 1 Tbs. of the fat from the pan. Set the pan aside to cool for a few minutes.

Return the pan to medium-high heat, add the apple pieces, and cook, turning once, until both cut sides are golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a different plate. Carefully pour the cider into the pan and bring to a boil, scraping the browned bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon.

Whisk the mustard into the cider. Return the chicken to the pan, along with any accumulated juices. Add the marjoram sprigs and cover. Transfer the pan to the oven and braise for 10 minutes. Add the apples and continue to braise until the chicken is fork-tender and the drumstick meat starts to come away from the bone, 35 to 40 minutes more.

With a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken and apples to a large serving dish and keep warm by covering the dish loosely with foil. Discard the marjoram sprigs. Tilt the sauté pan and skim off as much fat as possible from the sauce. Bring the sauce to a boil over medium-high heat and whisk in the cream. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the sauce is slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over the chicken, sprinkle with the chopped marjoram, and serve.

Provençal Braised Short Ribs

Olives, garlic, and rosemary bring the flavors of southern France to these tender short ribs. Customize your own braised short ribs with the Recipe Maker.

• 4-1/2 to 5 lb. English-style beef short ribs (8 to 12 ribs)
• 3 Tbs. vegetable oil
• Kosher salt
• Ground black pepper
• 2/3 cup medium-diced leeks
• 2/3 cup medium-diced carrots
• 2/3 cup medium-diced celery
• 1/2 cup pitted olives
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
• 1 Tbs. no-salt-added tomato paste
• 2 whole dried bay leaves
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary
• 1/2 cup brandy
• 1-1/2 cup dry red wine
• 1-1/2 cup lower-salt chicken broth
• 1 to 2 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh basil

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. In an 8-quart Dutch oven, heat 2 Tbs. of the oil over medium heat. Season the ribs with 2 tsp. salt and 1 tsp. pepper. Add half of the ribs to the pot (or as many as will fit without overlap), and cook, turning with tongs, until nicely browned on all sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer the ribs to a platter and repeat with the remaining ribs. Pour off all but a thin layer of fat from the pan.


Add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil, leeks, carrots, and celery to the pan. Season with 1/2 tsp. salt. Cook, stirring and scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan, until the aromatics are soft and lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the olives, garlic, tomato paste, bay leaves, and rosemary, and cook, stirring, until well distributed and fragrant, about 1 minute.


Pour the brandy into the pot and cook, stirring to scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pot, until the liquid is reduced to about 2 Tbs., about 1 minute.


Transfer all the ribs (and any juices that have accumulated) back into the pot. Pour the red wine and chicken broth and 1 cup water over the ribs and using tongs, arrange the ribs as evenly as possible and no more than two layers deep.


Bring the liquid to a simmer, cover, and put the pot in the oven. Cook, turning the ribs with tongs about every 40 minutes, until they are fork tender, about 2-3/4 hours. (The meat may fall off most of the bones about midway through cooking; this does not mean that the ribs are fully tender.)


Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Serve the ribs with the sauce spooned over, sprinkled with chopped basil.

Asparagus and Mascarpone Gratin with Parmesan Breadcrumbs

This simple yet decadent dish is easy enough to make on a weeknight but special enough (and easily doubled) for a weekend dinner party. Look for mascarpone, an Italian-style cream cheese, in the cheese section of most supermarkets.

• 1 lb. asparagus, trimmed of tough woody stems and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1/2  small yellow onion, finely diced
• 1-1/2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 3/4 cup fresh breadcrumbs
• 1/3 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 5 oz. mascarpone
• 1/2 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high.  In a 2-quart gratin dish, toss the asparagus with the onion, 1/2 Tbs. of the olive oil, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/8 tsp. pepper. Broil until crisp-tender, about 6 minutes.

Meanwhile, toss the breadcrumbs with the Parmigiano-Reggiano, remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil, and 1/8 tsp. pepper.

Dollop the mascarpone in little spoonfuls over the asparagus, sprinkle with the nutmeg, and top with the breadcrumb mixture. Broil until bubbly and golden-brown, about 2 minutes more. Serve.
 

Potatoes Mousseline

• 1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted
• 3 lb. russet potatoes, peeled and cut into lengthwise quarters
• Kosher salt
• 3/4 cup whole milk
• 1 cup heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
• Freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oven to 250°F. Brush a 9x13-inch baking dish with some of the melted butter. Put the potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with cold water by at least 1 inch. Add 2 tsp. salt, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a gentle boil, cover the pan partially, and cook until the potatoes are quite tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain and return the potatoes to the pan. Over low heat, shake the pan until the potatoes are dry and no longer steam profusely, about 2 minutes.

Pass the potatoes through a ricer (or force through a coarse sieve with a rubber spatula) into a large bowl. Stir in the milk and half of the melted butter with a wooden spoon. Whisk the whipped cream a few times to fluff it up and then gently stir about one-third of it into the potato mixture to lighten it with the whisk. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the rest of the whipped cream. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Transfer the potatoes to the baking dish. Spread evenly, and drizzle with the remaining butter. Bake the mousseline for 30 minutes until heated through. Just before serving, heat the broiler to high and broil the potatoes until lightly browned, 2 to 4 minutes.

Braised Fennel with Pastis

If you don’t have a pan large enough to hold all the fennel wedges in one layer, brown the fennel in batches on top of the stove, and then braise them in a covered pan in the oven. Plan on one large bulb for every two people. Pastis, an anise-flavored liquor, is my favorite, but if you can’t find it, Pernod is a good substitute.

• 2 large bulbs fennel (about 21/2  pounds total), rinsed and patted dry
• Pinch saffron threads (optional)
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. pastis, or 1/4 cup dry white wine or vermouth
• 3/4 cup homemade or low-salt chicken broth or  water

Trim off the fennel stalks. Trim about 2 tablespoons of the frilly, dill-like leaves from the stalks and set aside. Discard the stalks (or save to add to soups or broths). Cut the bulbs into lengthwise quarters, or, if the bulbs are very large, into sixths. Each wedge should be 2 to 3 inches wide and should be held intact with a portion of the core. Set a large (10-inch) skillet over medium heat. If using the saffron, put it in the dry pan and let heat for a couple of minutes. Pour in the olive oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. Add the fennel wedges, flat side down, and season lightly with salt and pepper. Increase the heat to medium high. When the first side is brown, after 3 minutes, turn the fennel and season again with salt and pepper. Brown the second flat side, turn, season, and brown the rounded side the same way. The total browning time should be about 10 minutes.

Lower the heat to medium, give the pan a minute to cool slightly, and then add the pastis, wine, or vermouth. Let the alcohol cook until nearly evaporated, 30 to 60 seconds, and then add the broth or water. Lower the heat to medium low, cover, and simmer gently until the core is tender when pierced with a table fork, 30 to 40  minutes. Turn the pieces every 10  minutes so they cook evenly and, if necessary, add more water, 1/4 cup at a time, to keep the pan from getting dry. (A  glass lid makes it easy to monitor the moisture level.) While the fennel cooks, mince the reserved leaves.

Transfer the fennel wedges to a platter, turning them to sit on their rounded sides. If the braising liquid looks watery, boil briefly until it reduces to a syrupy consistency. Drizzle the syrupy juices over the fennel, season to taste with salt and pepper, and sprinkle the minced leaves on top. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

French Bread Rolls

Fresh from the oven, French bread rolls are light and airy on the inside, crisp and crackly on the outside. Though baking these is a bit of a project, it can be done in stages. Plus, the rolls freeze well and reheat beautifully.

• 6 cups unbleached all-purpose flour; more as-needed
• 2 Tbs. melted clarified butter, store-bought ghee, or light olive oil; more for greasing the rising bowl and plastic wrap
• 1 package (2-1/4 tsp.) active-dry yeast
• 2 tsp. sugar, plus a pinch for the yeast
• 2 cups lukewarm water (about 70ºF)
• 1-1/4 oz. (1/2 cup) dry nonfat milk
• Scant 1 Tbs. table salt
• A few grinds of black pepper (optional)
• About 1 cup medium rye flour (optional; use all-purpose flour as a substitute) for dusting
• Yellow cornmeal (preferably medium ground) for the baker’s peel or baking sheets
• Coarse salt for sprinkling

Make the dough:

Sift the flour into a medium bowl; set aside. Brush some melted clarified butter on the interior of a large (5-qt.) bowl and one side of a piece of plastic wrap large enough to cover the bowl; set aside.

In a small bowl, stir the yeast and a pinch of sugar into 1/2 cup of the lukewarm water until dissolved. When the yeast is visibly active and bubbling, pour the remaining 1-1/2 cups lukewarm water into another large bowl. Add the 2 Tbs. clarified butter, the 2 tsp. sugar, the dry milk, salt, pepper (if using), and the dissolved yeast mixture. Add about 3 cups of the flour and stir with a wooden spoon until incorporated. Continue to add more flour (about 1/2 cup at a time) and stir until the dough comes together in a mass that leaves the sides of the bowl and is no longer easy to stir; you may not need all the flour.

With a sturdy rubber spatula, scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Flour your hands and knead the dough until it’s perfectly smooth and elastic, 3 to 5 minutes. If the dough sticks, use your bench knife or bowl scraper to release it. Add only as much additional flour as necessary to keep the dough from sticking to your hands and the work surface.

Put the dough in the greased bowl and brush the top of the dough with melted clarified butter. Cover with the greased plastic wrap and then with a clean dishtowel. Let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in volume, about 2 hours.

Uncover the bowl. Lightly flour the back of your hand and punch down the dough by giving it several swift swats. The dough will be quite sticky and spongy, so use your fingertips to help release it from the sides of the bowl, allowing it to deflate. At this point, you can either refrigerate the dough for later (see Make-Ahead Tips, below) or continue the rise. To continue the rise, turn the dough over in the bowl, cover as before, and let rise again until doubled in volume and light in texture, about 2 hours.

Shape the rolls:

Lay two clean, dry dishtowels over two baking sheets and dust them very heavily with a layer of the medium rye or all-purpose flour.

Deflate the dough by pulling it away from the sides of the bowl. Turn the dough out onto your floured work surface and gently knead the dough a few times to finish deflating. Using the blade of your bench knife or bowl scraper, cut the dough in half. Cut each half in-half again and then cut each piece into three equal pieces for a total of twelve. Cover the pieces with a clean dishtowel. Flour your hands and remove one piece of dough from under the towel, leaving the remaining pieces covered. Shape the rolls into either rounds or ovals. Cover the rolls with a clean dishtowel. Let the rolls rise, covered, until they look light and billowy, 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Set up your oven:

You want to bake your rolls as low in the oven as possible, with a metal baking pan of ice water beneath them. If you have an electric heating element on the oven floor, set an oven rack on the lowest position for the ice water pan, and position your baking stone or baking tiles on a second rack just above the pan. Otherwise, you can set your tiles or stone on the lowest oven rack and put the ice water pan directly on the floor of the oven. If you're using baking sheets instead of a stone or tiles, you may need two racks for the sheets; position them as low as possible.

Begin heating the oven to 450°F at least thirty minutes before baking. Your tiles or stone and the empty ice water pan should be in the oven as it heats; if you're baking the rolls on baking sheets, don't put them in the oven yet.

Bake the rolls:

If baking on tiles or stone, sprinkle your peel with cornmeal. Otherwise, line two large, shallow baking sheets with parchment and sprinkle them with cornmeal. Put 4 ice cubes in a 1-cup measuring cup and add enough cold water to reach the 1/4-cup mark. Set the cup next to the oven.

Gently lift the risen rolls and invert them (smooth side up) onto the prepared peel or baking sheets, but don’t remove any clinging flour from their surface. For oval rolls, use a sharp knife or a razor to make a slash from one end of the top to the other. For round rolls, use scissors to snip a crisscross in the top. Sprinkle the rolls with coarse salt.

If using tiles or a stone, lift the loaded peel by the handle and give it a little shake to make sure that the rolls aren’t sticking. Open the oven door and cover the window with a towel (to prevent contact with the ice water, which could break the window), put the peel all the way in the back of the oven over the tiles. With one swift jerk, remove the peel, leaving the rolls on the hot tiles. (It’s okay if the rolls touch when they land.) Immediately toss the ice water into the hot metal pan, remove the towel, and quickly shut the door.

If using baking sheets, put the loaded baking sheets in the oven and toss the ice water into the pan as directed in the baking-tile instructions above. If you’re using two racks, switch the positions of the sheets after the first 12 minutes of baking.

Bake the rolls at 450°F until light golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Reduce the heat to 400°F and bake until deep golden brown, about 5 minutes. Turn the oven off an let the rolls remain in the oven with the door closed to finish crisping for another 5 minutes. Remove the rolls from the oven and let them cool on a wire rack for at least 20 minutes.