Braised Beef Braciola Stuffed with Basil and Mozzarella

This is a home-style version of the Italian-American classic. The traditional dish uses small roulades of beef round, but here we use a whole flank steak because it’s quicker and easier to stuff and roll one large cut and the flank offers a wonderful flavor. If you want to build up the stuffing, add prosciutto or hearty greens like kale.

• One 2 lb. flank steak
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup grated mozzarella
• 3/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 1/3 cup fine, dry breadcrumbs
• 12 large basil leaves, torn into pieces 
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1 large yellow onion, cut into thin strips (about 1-1/2 cups)
• 1/2 cup red wine
• One 28-oz. can whole tomatoes and their juices (3 cups), puréed (preferably San Marzano)
• 1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
• 8 oz. white mushrooms, quartered

Set the flank steak on a large cutting board. Using a chef’s knife, slice the steak lengthwise along one long side (without cutting all the way through the meat) and open it up like a book. Using a meat mallet, flatten the meat so it is about 1/4 inch thick. Sprinkle both sides of the meat with 1 tsp. salt and 1/2 tsp. pepper. For the stuffing, put the mozzarella, Parmigiano, breadcrumbs, and basil in a mini chopper or food processor and pulse to combine. Sprinkle the stuffing evenly over one side of the beef, and roll it up lengthwise jelly roll–style with the stuffing inside. Secure with kitchen twine in five or six places.

Heat half the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until it’s shimmering. Add the beef and cook until it browns and releases easily from the pan, about 2 minutes. Flip and cook the other side until browned, about 5 more minutes. Transfer to a large plate.

Add the remaining 2 Tbs. oil and the onion to the pan, and lower the heat to medium. Sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt and cook, stirring, until the onion wilts completely and turns a light brown, about 8 minutes. Add the red wine and cook, stirring, until it almost completely reduces, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and red pepper flakes and bring to a boil. Reduce to a gentle simmer and tuck the meat and mushrooms into the broth. Cover and cook, repositioning the meat occasionally, until the meat becomes tender and cuts easily with a paring knife, about 1-1/2 hours. Set the meat on a cutting board and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes. Thinly slice and serve topped with the sauce and vegetables.

Beef Daube Provençal

Regardless of how fancy this dish may sound, this is simple, satisfying country cooking.

• 4 lb. boneless lean rump roast, chuck pot roast, sirloin tip, top round, or bottom round, cut into 2-inch cubes
• 1 (750-ml) bottle dry red wine (such as Côtes du Rhône, Bandol, or Mourvèdre)
• 1 carrot, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 celery stalk, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 onion, preferably Vidalia, coarsely chopped
• 3 Tbs. pure olive oil, plus more if needed
• Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Bouquet garni (5 sprigs thyme; 4 sprigs flat-leaf parsley; 2 bay leaves, preferably fresh; and 10 whole black peppercorns, tied together in cheesecloth)
• 1 cup pitted green olives
• Finely grated zest of 2 oranges
• 1 Tbs. anchovy paste
• 6 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
• 1 cup homemade beef stock or reduced-fat, low-sodium beef stock, if needed

To marinate the beef, place the meat cubes in a large nonreactive bowl. Add the wine, carrot, celery, and onion. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to overnight.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with paper towels. Remove the beef from the marinade and transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Pat the meat dry with paper towels. Strain the marinade, reserving both the vegetables and the liquid separately.

To cook the beef, heat a large, heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add 2 Tbs. of the oil and heat until shimmering. Season the beef with salt and pepper. Working in two or three batches without crowding, sear the beef until nicely browned on all sides, about 5 minutes. Remove and discard the paper towels; transfer the beef to the prepared baking sheet when done. (In this case, it’s okay to use the same baking sheet for the raw and cooked beef because the meat will be cooked further.) Return the beef to the Dutch oven.

 

Tie the vegetables from the marinade in cheesecloth with cotton twine. (This makes it easier to purée the sauce later.) Add the bundle of vegetables, bouquet garni, olives, orange zest, anchovy paste, garlic, and reserved marinade to the pan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cover and transfer to the oven. Cook until the meat is tender, 3 to 3-1/2 hours.

Remove the bouquet garni from the Dutch oven and discard. Transfer the beef and olives with a slotted spoon to a bowl. Open the bundle of vegetables and add to the sauce. In the Dutch oven, using an immersion blender, purée the sauce and vegetables until smooth. Or, once the beef and olives are removed, ladle the sauce and vegetables into a blender a little at a time and purée until smooth. Cook the puréed sauce over medium-high heat until it coats the back of a spoon; if needed, thin with beef stock to achieve this consistency. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Return the beef and olives to the sauce and turn to coat. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Beef Rendang

Serve this aromatic Malaysian specialty with jasmine or basmati rice. You can also enjoy it with bread, using it as a filling for pita, naan, tortillas, or any other flatbread. Rendang is typically very thick, but if you prefer a saucier dish, you can add a little water after adding the toasted coconut at the end.View a slideshowto learn more about the ingredients that make this rendang incredibly aromatic.  

For the flavor base:

• 15 dried japones chiles or 10 dried chiles de árbol or 3 Tbs. sambal oelek
• 1-1/2 cups sliced shallots (from 4 large shallots)
• 2 Tbs. sliced garlic
• 1 Tbs. sliced peeled fresh ginger
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh or frozen and thawed galangal (optional)

For the whole spice blend:

• 4 whole cloves
• 4 whole green cardamom pods
• 2 whole star anise
• 1 3-inch-long cinnamon stick, snapped in half

For the ground spice blend:

• 2 tsp. ground coriander
• 2 tsp. ground cumin
• 2 tsp. ground fennel seeds
• 1 tsp. ground turmeric
• 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

For the rendang:

• 3/4 cup canola or vegetable oil; more as needed
• 2 lb. boneless top blade beef chuck (or bottom or top round, flank, or
  sirloin steak), cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices, then cut into 1-1/2- to
  2-inch pieces
• 1 13.5-oz. can unsweetened coconut milk
• 1/4 cup tamarind concentrate
• 3 wild lime leaves, thinly sliced
• 2 medium lemongrass stalks, bruised with back of knife and tied in a knot
• 4 tsp. palm sugar or dark brown sugar
• 2-1/2 tsp. table salt
• 1/2 cup tightly packed grated fresh coconut or unsweetened frozen coconut, thawed
• 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish (optional)
• Lime wedges, for garnish (optional)

Make the flavor base:

If using dried chiles, steep them in hot water until pliable, 5 to 8 minutes; then slit and seed them (use gloves). Put the chiles, shallots, garlic, ginger, galangal (if using), and 1/4 cup water in a food processor and process to a coarse purée, about 3 minutes (if using whole dried chiles, you’ll still see little pieces of the skins).

Make the spice blends:

In a small bowl, combine the cloves, cardamom pods, star anise, and cinnamon pieces. In a second small bowl, combine the coriander, cumin, fennel, turmeric, and pepper.

Make the rendang:

Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a 12-inch skillet or wok over medium-low heat until shimmering hot. Add the whole spice blend and cook, stirring constantly, until the cinnamon sticks unfold (the cardamom may also crack open), 1 to 2 minutes; don’t let the spices burn. Add another 2 Tbs. of the oil and the ground spice blend and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture sizzles and becomes fragrant, 30 to 60 seconds more (if the spices stick to the pan, add a little more oil to prevent burning).

Add the remaining 1/2 cup oil and the flavor base and cook, stirring, until the purée is an intense reddish-brown, about 10 minutes. Raise the heat to medium, add the beef and cook, stirring, to coat it with the spices, about 2 minutes. Add the coconut milk, tamarind concentrate, lime leaves, and lemongrass and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture comes to a boil, about 5 minutes.

Reduce the heat to low, add the sugar and salt, and simmer, stirring occasionally for the first hour and then more frequently as the stew thickens, until the liquid is very thick and oil appears on its surface, about 1-3/4 hours. The meat will not be fork-tender at this point.

Meanwhile, squeeze any excess liquid from the coconut with your hands. In a 10-inch skillet, toast the coconut over low heat, stirring constantly, until golden-brown, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl.

Stir the toasted coconut into the stew and then continue stirring until it's incorporated and much of the liquid is gone, about 15 minutes. Add 1 cup water if you prefer a saucy consistency. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the meat is fork-tender, 20 to 30 minutes more (the oil will start frothing after 15 to 20 minutes).

Remove the lemongrass, cinnamon pieces, star anise, and as many cardamom pods and cloves as you can find. Transfer the meat to a serving platter and garnish with the cilantro and lime wedges (if using).

Garlicky Braised Kale with Sun-Dried Tomatoes

Braising softens kale, which will be a little tough and leathery if undercooked. Unfortunately, kale also loses its bright green color when properly cooked. As a variation, try using the pretty new variety of kale called cavolo nero, or Tuscan kale, in this recipe. Or use young turnip greens. You can also vary this recipe by sautéing onions or bacon with the garlic, or by adding red pepper flakes.Watch the Test Kitchen's video to get a few quick tips on trimming kale.

• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 5 cloves garlic, cut in half, smashed, and peeled
• 2 Tbs. finely chopped oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, well drained
• 7 oz. stemmed kale leaves (from about 1/2 large bunch kale), washed and cut into 1-inch ribbons
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup low-salt chicken stock (canned is fine, but don't use low-fat)
• 1/2 tsp. balsamic vinegar
• 1/2 oz. crumbled goat cheese (optional)

Heat the olive oil in a Dutch oven or a 3- to 4-qt. soup pot over medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté, stirring, until starting to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the sun-dried tomatoes and stir to combine. Add the kale, tossing to coat it well with the oil. Season with the salt and a few grinds of pepper, and continue stirring until all the kale is wilted. Add the stock, bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, cover and cook until the kale has softened, about 8 minutes. Uncover, turn the heat to high, and boil away the remaining liquid, stirring frequently, until the pan is almost dry. Take the pan off the heat. Season with the vinegar and stir to combine. Transfer to a small serving dish or plates. Top with the crumbled goat cheese, if you like.

Hunter's-Style Braised Short Ribs

Mushrooms and vermouth make these short ribs "hunter's style," and the mushroom flavor is boosted even further by using the mushroom soaking liquid to braise the ribs. Serve these ribs over fresh wide pasta noodles, like pappardelle. You can also customize your own braised short ribs with the Recipe Maker

• 1/2 oz. dried mushrooms
• 4-1/2 to 5 lb. English-style beef short ribs (8 to 12 ribs)
• 3 Tbs. vegetable oil
• Kosher salt
• Ground black pepper
• 2/3 cup medium-diced carrots
• 2/3 cup medium-diced celery
• 2/3 cup medium-diced onions
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme
• 1 Tbs. no-salt-added tomato paste
• 1 to 2 tsp. paprika
• 1/2 cup vermouth
• 1 cup lower-salt chicken broth
• 1 cup dry red wine
• 1 to 2 Tbs. chopped fresh parsley

In a small bowl, pour 1-1/2 cups hot water over the mushrooms. Let steep until the mushrooms are soft, then drain the mushrooms (reserve 1 cup of the soaking liquid) and chop them coarsely.


Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. In an 8-quart Dutch oven, heat 2 Tbs. of the oil over medium heat. Season the ribs with 2 tsp. salt and 1 tsp. pepper. Add half of the ribs to the pot (or as many as will fit without overlap), and cook, turning with tongs, until nicely browned on all sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer the ribs to a platter and repeat with the remaining ribs. Pour off all but a thin layer of fat from the pan.


Add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil, carrots, celery, and onions to the pan. Season with 1/2 tsp. salt. Cook, stirring and scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan, until the aromatics are soft and lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the reconstituted dried mushrooms, garlic, thyme, tomato paste, and paprika, and cook, stirring, until well distributed and fragrant, about 1 minute.


Pour the vermouth into the pot and cook, stirring to scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pot, until the liquid is reduced to about 2 Tbs., about 1 minute.


Transfer all the ribs (and any juices that have accumulated) back into the pot. Pour 1 cup water, the reserved mushroom soaking liquid, chicken broth, and red wine over the ribs, and using tongs, arrange the ribs as evenly as possible and no more than two layers deep.


Bring the liquid to a simmer, cover, and put the pot in the oven. Cook, turning the ribs with tongs about every 40 minutes, until they are fork tender, about 2-3/4 hours. (The meat may fall off most of the bones about midway through cooking; this does not mean that the ribs are fully tender.)


Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Serve the ribs with the sauce spooned over, sprinkled with chopped parsley.

Braised Lamb Chops with Black Olives & Artichokes

Fresh artichokes taste great with lamb, but frozen hearts will do in a pinch: thaw them, pat them dry, and add them about half an hour after you’ve added the olives.

• 4 lamb shoulder blade or arm chops, 3/4 inch thick
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary
• 2 tsp. tomato paste
• 1 cup homemade or low-salt beef broth
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• Juice of 1 lemon
• 2 large artichokes
• 1/4 cup niçoise or other good-quality black olives, pitted

Heat a heavy, straight-sided skillet over medium-high heat. Season both sides of the chops with salt and peper. Add the oilve oil to the heated pan and then sear the chops on both sides until well browned, about 3 minutes per side (work in batches if necessary so you don't crowd the pan). Sprinkle the garlic and rosemary over the chops in the pan. Whisk the tomato paste into the beef broth and pour it over the chops; add the wine. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a slow simmer, cover the pan, and simmer for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the lemon juice with cool water in a bowl. Snap off the dark-green outer leaves of each artichoke. Cut off all but 1 inch of the stem, as well as the top third of the each artichoke. Trim the outside and bottom to remove the bases of the leaves and the tough outer part of the stem. Cut each in half. With a spoon, scoop out and discard the hairy choke and purple inner leaves. Cut each half into four wedges and put these in the acidulated water until ready to use.

After the lamb has simmered for 30 minutes, remove the artichokes from the water and stuff them between the chops in the pan. Sprinkle the olives over the chops. Continue simmering over low heat, covered, until the chops are very tender and the artichokes are cooked through,  40 to 45 minutes. Transfer the chops, artichokes, and olives to a platter; tent with toil to keep warm. If the pan juices are greasy, tilt the pan and spoon off the fat. Put two chops on each plate and spoon the artichokes, olives, and pan juices over them.

Osso Buco

This is the world’s best make-ahead dish—it tastes amazing on the second day. The classic accompaniment is saffron-scented Risotto alla Milanese.

• 6 1-1/4 inch-thick veal shanks
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour for dredging
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 3 cups finely diced yellow onion (about 2 medium onions)
• 1 cup finely diced celery (about 2 stalks)
• 3/4 cup finely diced carrot (about 2 small carrots)
• 1 tsp. dried oregano
• 3/4 cup dry white wine
• 2 Tbs. tomato paste
• 1 28-oz. can Italian plum tomatoes, drained and chopped, juices reserved
• 1 cup low-salt chicken broth, more if needed
• 1 large sprig thyme
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 Tbs. arrowroot mixed with 2 tsp. broth or water

Tip:

Look for arrowroot in the spice section of your grocery store.

For the gremolata:

• 3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 large cloves garlic, minced
• 1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
• 2 anchovy fillets, minced

Heat the oven to 350°F.

Tie the veal shanks around the middle with kitchen string (if they’re not tied already) and season them with salt and pepper. Put the flour in a dish. Dredge the shanks very lightly in flour, thoroughly shaking off the excess.

Have ready a roasting pan or baking dish large enough to hold the shanks in a single layer (9x13-inch works well). In a large heavy skillet, heat 3 Tbs. of the oil over medium-high heat. Put three veal shanks in the pan and sear until nicely browned on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Move the shanks to the roasting pan. Repeat with the remaining three shanks.

Carefully pour off the fat in the pan and wipe it out with paper towels (it’s fine if the browned bits remain in the pan bottom; just wipe away the used oil). Return the pan to medium heat and add the butter and remaining 1 Tbs. of oil. When the butter is melted, add the onion, celery, carrot, oregano, and 1 tsp. salt. Cook the vegetables, stirring occasionally, until soft and lightly browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high, add the wine, and cook, scraping up any brown bits with a wooden spoon, until the wine is reduced to about 1/4 cup, about 3 minutes

Stir in the tomato paste. Add the tomatoes with their juices, the broth, thyme, bay leaf, 1/2 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Bring to a boil, and pour the contents of the pan over the shanks. Cover tightly with heavy-duty aluminum foil.

Braise the veal in the oven until fork-tender, 1-1/2 to 2 hours, checking the liquid occasionally. If it has cooked down, add enough broth to keep the level about halfway up the shanks. To check for doneness, pierce a shank with a fork. The meat should pull apart easily. Taste a morsel—it should feel soft and tender. Do not overcook, or the veal will fall apart.

Gently brush most of the vegetable bits off the shanks. With a wide, flat metal spatula, carefully transfer the veal shanks to a dish. Strain the pan juices through a medium-mesh sieve into a saucepan, pressing hard on the solids with a spatula to extract as much sauce as you can. Bring the sauce to a simmer. Whisk in the arrowroot mixture and cook briefly to thicken. If you’re working ahead, stop here (see Make-ahead Tips for reheating).

Make the gremolata:

Just before finishing the sauce and serving, combine the parsley, garlic, lemon zest, and anchovies. Add two Tbs. of the gremolata to the sauce. Remove the strings from the shanks. Serve the osso buco topped with the sauce and a small sprinkling of the remaining gremolata.

Curried Lamb with Apricots and Almonds

This sweet and aromatic curry is based on the traditional sali boti of Parsi cuisine in western India. For the best flavor, use dried Turkish apricots, which will provide a sweet, smooth finish to balance the many spices. You can also use shoulder chops for the lamb, if they are easier to find.

• 4 lb. lamb shoulder with bone, cut into 2-inch pieces, excess fat trimmed
• 1/4 cup cider vinegar
• 1 Tbs. packed dark brown sugar
• 1 Tbs. ground coriander
• 1 Tbs. ground cumin
• 1-1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1-1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tsp. fennel seeds
• 1 tsp. ground cardamom
• 1/8 tsp. crushed saffron threads (scant 1/2 tsp. threads)
• 1/4 tsp. ground cloves
• Kosher salt
• 2 Tbs. peanut oil
• 2 large yellow onions, thinly sliced (about 4 cups)
• 2 Tbs. minced peeled fresh ginger (2-inch piece)
• 1 Tbs. minced garlic (3 medium cloves)
• 2/3 cup packed dried Turkish apricots
• 1/2 cup sliced almonds
• 1/2 cup no-salt-added canned tomato sauce (from an 8-oz. can)

In a 6-quart slow cooker, stir together the lamb, vinegar, brown sugar, coriander, cumin, cinnamon, pepper, fennel seeds, cardamom, saffron, cloves, and 1 tsp. salt until the meat is thoroughly coated in the spices.

In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions, ginger, and garlic. Cook, stirring often, until the onions are translucent, about 3 minutes.

Scrape the contents of the skillet into the slow cooker. Stir in the apricots, almonds, and tomato sauce. Cover and cook on low until the meat is very tender, about 6 hours. Remove the meat with tongs and separate the meat and bones, discarding the bones. Degrease the sauce, if necessary, by laying a paper towel on the surface to soak up the fat, then remove and discard it. Repeat with another paper towel, if needed. Return the meat to the sauce and season to taste with salt. Serve.

Braised Chicken Legs with Cider, Apples & Mustard

When chicken legs are simmered slowly, the meat becomes
wonderfully tender and falls off the bone; at the same time, it develops a
rich, deep flavor. Use dry hard cider (which is alcoholic) for this recipe, not fresh sweet cider.

• 4 bone-in, skin-on medium chicken thighs (1-1/2 to 1-3/4 lb.)
• 4 chicken drumsticks (1-1/4 to 1-1/2 lb.)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 2 medium apples such as Rome, Spy, or Mutsu, peeled, cored, and cut into sixths
• 2 cups dry hard apple cider
• 1/4 cup Dijon mustard
• 3 large marjoram sprigs
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh marjoram

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350ºF.

Season the chicken pieces generously with salt and pepper. In a straight-sided 10- or 11-inch ovenproof sauté pan with a lid, heat the oil over mediumhigh heat until very hot. Arrange the chicken pieces skin side down in the pan (it’ll be crowded), cover with a splatter screen, if you have one, and cook until deeply browned, about 5 minutes. Turn the pieces over and cook until the other sides are deeply browned, 3 to 5 minutes more. Transfer to a plate. Pour out and discard all but 1 Tbs. of the fat from the pan. Set the pan aside to cool for a few minutes.

Return the pan to medium-high heat, add the apple pieces, and cook, turning once, until both cut sides are golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a different plate. Carefully pour the cider into the pan and bring to a boil, scraping the browned bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon.

Whisk the mustard into the cider. Return the chicken to the pan, along with any accumulated juices. Add the marjoram sprigs and cover. Transfer the pan to the oven and braise for 10 minutes. Add the apples and continue to braise until the chicken is fork-tender and the drumstick meat starts to come away from the bone, 35 to 40 minutes more.

With a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken and apples to a large serving dish and keep warm by covering the dish loosely with foil. Discard the marjoram sprigs. Tilt the sauté pan and skim off as much fat as possible from the sauce. Bring the sauce to a boil over medium-high heat and whisk in the cream. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the sauce is slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over the chicken, sprinkle with the chopped marjoram, and serve.

Provençal Braised Short Ribs

Olives, garlic, and rosemary bring the flavors of southern France to these tender short ribs. Customize your own braised short ribs with the Recipe Maker.

• 4-1/2 to 5 lb. English-style beef short ribs (8 to 12 ribs)
• 3 Tbs. vegetable oil
• Kosher salt
• Ground black pepper
• 2/3 cup medium-diced leeks
• 2/3 cup medium-diced carrots
• 2/3 cup medium-diced celery
• 1/2 cup pitted olives
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
• 1 Tbs. no-salt-added tomato paste
• 2 whole dried bay leaves
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary
• 1/2 cup brandy
• 1-1/2 cup dry red wine
• 1-1/2 cup lower-salt chicken broth
• 1 to 2 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh basil

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. In an 8-quart Dutch oven, heat 2 Tbs. of the oil over medium heat. Season the ribs with 2 tsp. salt and 1 tsp. pepper. Add half of the ribs to the pot (or as many as will fit without overlap), and cook, turning with tongs, until nicely browned on all sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer the ribs to a platter and repeat with the remaining ribs. Pour off all but a thin layer of fat from the pan.


Add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil, leeks, carrots, and celery to the pan. Season with 1/2 tsp. salt. Cook, stirring and scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan, until the aromatics are soft and lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the olives, garlic, tomato paste, bay leaves, and rosemary, and cook, stirring, until well distributed and fragrant, about 1 minute.


Pour the brandy into the pot and cook, stirring to scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pot, until the liquid is reduced to about 2 Tbs., about 1 minute.


Transfer all the ribs (and any juices that have accumulated) back into the pot. Pour the red wine and chicken broth and 1 cup water over the ribs and using tongs, arrange the ribs as evenly as possible and no more than two layers deep.


Bring the liquid to a simmer, cover, and put the pot in the oven. Cook, turning the ribs with tongs about every 40 minutes, until they are fork tender, about 2-3/4 hours. (The meat may fall off most of the bones about midway through cooking; this does not mean that the ribs are fully tender.)


Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Serve the ribs with the sauce spooned over, sprinkled with chopped basil.

Braised Chicken Legs with Red Wine, Tomato, Anchovies & Rosemary

Bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs and drumsticks are best for braising. When chicken legs are simmered slowly, the meat becomes wonderfully tender and falls off the bone; at the same time, it develops a rich, deep flavor. In this dish, the red wine (in combination with chicken broth) adds tanginess and some welcome acidity.

• 6 oil-packed anchovy fillets, rinsed and patted dry
• 2 medium cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh rosemary leaves, plus 1 tsp. whole rosemary leaves
• 1 cup homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth
• 4 bone-in, skin-on medium chicken thighs (1-1/2 to 1-3/4 lb.)
• 4 chicken drumsticks (1-1/4 to 1-1/2 lb.)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 1 cup dry red wine
• 6 plum (Roma) tomatoes, peeled, cut into quarters, and seeded
• 1 Tbs. red-wine vinegar

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350ºF.

Put the anchovies, garlic, and chopped  rosemary in a food processor and process until finely chopped, scraping the sides of the bowl as needed. Add the chicken broth and process again until the ingredients are well blended, about 30 seconds.

Season the chicken pieces generously with salt and pepper. In a straight-sided 10- or 11-inch ovenproof sauté  pan with a lid, heat the oil over medium-high heat until very hot. Arrange the chicken pieces skin side down in the pan (it’ll be crowded), cover with a splatter screen, if you have one, and cook until deeply browned, about 5 minutes. Turn the pieces over and cook until the other sides are deeply browned, 3 to 5 minutes more. Transfer to a plate. Pour out and discard all the fat from the pan.

Return the pan to medium-high heat, carefully add the wine to the pan, and bring to a boil, scraping the browned bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Pour in the broth mixture. Return the chicken pieces to the pan, along with any accumulated juices. Add the tomatoes and cover. Transfer the pan to the oven and braise until the chicken is fork-tender and the drumstick meat starts to come away from the bone, 45 to 50 minutes.

With a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken and tomato pieces to a large serving dish and keep warm by covering the dish loosely with foil. Tilt the sauté pan and skim off as much fat as possible from the sauce. Bring the sauce to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer until the sauce is slightly reduced and full-flavored, about 5 minutes. Add the vinegar and whole rosemary leaves. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve.

Spiced Green Beans Braised with Tomato & Onions

This classic Lebanese dish is flavored with hints of cinnamon and allspice. It’s wonderful with any roasted meat but especially good with lamb.

• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium onion (about 8 oz.), halved lengthwise, trimmed, and thinly sliced lengthwise (about 2 cups)
• 1 lb. fresh green beans, rinsed well, stem ends trimmed
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt; more as needed
• 1/4 tsp. freshly cracked black pepper; more as needed
• 2 cups canned diced tomatoes (from a 28-oz. can), drained
• 4 large cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
• 1 tsp. granulated sugar
• 3/4 tsp. ground allspice
• 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon

In a large (12-inch) skillet with a lid, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and lightly golden, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the green beans, salt, and black pepper, and stir well. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are caramelized and the beans start to soften and brown lightly, about 10 minutes.

Add the tomatoes, garlic, sugar, allspice, and cinnamon. Stir well, reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the beans are very tender throughout, 15 to 20 minutes, or longer if a softer texture is desired. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Braised Fennel with Pastis

If you don’t have a pan large enough to hold all the fennel wedges in one layer, brown the fennel in batches on top of the stove, and then braise them in a covered pan in the oven. Plan on one large bulb for every two people. Pastis, an anise-flavored liquor, is my favorite, but if you can’t find it, Pernod is a good substitute.

• 2 large bulbs fennel (about 21/2  pounds total), rinsed and patted dry
• Pinch saffron threads (optional)
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. pastis, or 1/4 cup dry white wine or vermouth
• 3/4 cup homemade or low-salt chicken broth or  water

Trim off the fennel stalks. Trim about 2 tablespoons of the frilly, dill-like leaves from the stalks and set aside. Discard the stalks (or save to add to soups or broths). Cut the bulbs into lengthwise quarters, or, if the bulbs are very large, into sixths. Each wedge should be 2 to 3 inches wide and should be held intact with a portion of the core. Set a large (10-inch) skillet over medium heat. If using the saffron, put it in the dry pan and let heat for a couple of minutes. Pour in the olive oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. Add the fennel wedges, flat side down, and season lightly with salt and pepper. Increase the heat to medium high. When the first side is brown, after 3 minutes, turn the fennel and season again with salt and pepper. Brown the second flat side, turn, season, and brown the rounded side the same way. The total browning time should be about 10 minutes.

Lower the heat to medium, give the pan a minute to cool slightly, and then add the pastis, wine, or vermouth. Let the alcohol cook until nearly evaporated, 30 to 60 seconds, and then add the broth or water. Lower the heat to medium low, cover, and simmer gently until the core is tender when pierced with a table fork, 30 to 40  minutes. Turn the pieces every 10  minutes so they cook evenly and, if necessary, add more water, 1/4 cup at a time, to keep the pan from getting dry. (A  glass lid makes it easy to monitor the moisture level.) While the fennel cooks, mince the reserved leaves.

Transfer the fennel wedges to a platter, turning them to sit on their rounded sides. If the braising liquid looks watery, boil briefly until it reduces to a syrupy consistency. Drizzle the syrupy juices over the fennel, season to taste with salt and pepper, and sprinkle the minced leaves on top. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

Cider-Glazed Turnips & Apples with Sage & Bacon

Braising turnips transforms them into translucent, buttery, tender morsels. I prefer small turnips, but if all you can find are large ones, be sure to peel them thickly (I use a paring knife) or the turnip will be tough and taste bitter. This dish is a perfect accompaniment to roast lamb or pork.

• 1-1/2 lb. small purple-top or white turnips (about 9 small)
• 4 slices bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 cup apple cider
• 2 tsp. granulated sugar
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 large firm, sweet apple such as Pink Lady or Braeburn
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh sage

Peel the turnips and cut them in half lengthwise. Cut each half into wedges 1 inch thick at the widest point.

Put the bacon pieces in a large skillet and set over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels. Pour off the bacon fat from the pan and set the pan back on the burner. Add the butter and, when it’s melted, add the turnips, apple  cider, sugar, and 1-1/2 tsp. salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cover the pan with the lid slightly askew, reduce the heat to medium high, and cook at a steady boil, shaking the pan occasionally, until the turnips are just tender but not soft (a pairing knife should enter a turnip with just a little resistance), 8  to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, peel and core the apple and cut it into 1/2-inch slices.

Uncover the pan, add the sliced apples and sage, and continue to boil, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has reduced to a sticky glaze, 2 to 3 minutes. The turnips should be soft and the apples should be crisp-tender. (If not, add a few tablespoons of water and continue to cook for another 1  to 2  minutes.) Toss in the cooked bacon and season to taste with black pepper and more salt if necessary.

Artichoke Ragoût with Shallots & Fennel

To prepare fresh baby artichokes, trim them (see How to trim baby artichokes). If you can't find baby artichokes, good-quality frozen ones will do.

For the ragoût

• 16 baby artichokes, trimmed and halved, or two 10-oz. packages frozen artichokes, thawed, well drained, and patted dry
• 1 lemon, halved
• 2 sprigs fresh rosemary, plus 1 tsp. chopped
• 2 large sprigs fresh thyme
• 2 bay leaves
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil; more for drizzling
• 3 cloves garlic, slivered
• 8 shallots (root ends intact), peeled and quartered
• 1 fennel bulb, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 8 small fingerling potatoes (about 1 lb. total), scrubbed and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 2 Tbs. flour
• 1 tsp. salt; more to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 3/4 cup dry white wine
• 1-1/2 cups vegetable or chicken broth

For the persillade:

• 3 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 large clove garlic
• 1 tsp. grated lemon zest

If using fresh artichokes, rub the cut surfaces with the lemon to prevent browning. Tie the rosemary sprigs, thyme, and bay leaves into a bouquet. In a large Dutch oven, heat the olive oil with the garlic and the herb bouquet over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and fennel. Cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are nicely browned, about 10 min. Add the artichokes and potatoes; sprinkle the flour over them and stir well. Cook, stirring, another 5 min., until the vegetables' edges are browned. Add the salt, a bit of ground pepper, and the wine. Simmer vigorously, scraping the browned bits off the bottom of the pan, until the wine is reduced by half. Add the broth, bring to a boil, and cover the pot. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the vegetables are tender when pierced with a knife, about 40 min., stirring occasionally. Stir in the chopped rosemary. Remove the herb bouquet and adjust the seasonings, if needed.

Prepare the persillade: Chop the parsley and garlic together until finely textured; add the lemon zest. Ladle the ragoût into soup plates, sprinkle some of the persillade onto each plate, and serve.

Barbecue Braised Country Spareribs with Beer and Mustard Glaze

For this recipe, the German dark lager called bock beer is my top choice, but any dark lager works well. Serve with boiled new potatoes or potato salad.

For the ribs:

• 1 Tbs. sweet Hungarian paprika
• 1 tsp. dark brown sugar
• 1 tsp. dry mustard (preferably Coleman’s)
• 1 tsp. dried sage
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3 lb. bone-in country style pork ribs

For the braising liquid:

• 4 strips bacon, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch-wide strips
• 2 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced (3 cups)
• 4 medium cloves garlic, chopped (1 Tbs.)
• 1 medium carrot, chopped (1/2 cup)
• 2 cups lower-salt chicken broth
• 1 12-oz. bottle bock beer or dark lager
• 1/4 cup cider vinegar
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tsp. caraway seeds

For the glaze:

• 1/4 cup Dijon mustard
• 1/4 cup light brown sugar
• 1/4 tsp. Worcestershire sauce

Season:

In a small bowl, combine the paprika, brown sugar, dry mustard, sage, 1 tsp. salt, and 1 tsp. pepper. Set aside 2 tsp. to use in the braise and sprinkle the remaining rub all over the ribs. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours but preferably overnight.

Sear:

Prepare a gas grill for direct grilling over medium-high heat. Grill the ribs until nicely browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a platter, let cool briefly, and then tie each rib with 3 or 4 loops of butcher’s twine.

Braise:

Prepare the grill for indirect grilling. In an 8-quart heavy-duty pot, cook the bacon over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until it just starts to crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and beginning to color, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the garlic, carrot, and the reserved spice rub and cook for about 1 minute more. Add the broth, beer, vinegar, bay leaves, and caraway seeds. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes.

Nestle the ribs into the braising liquid. Set the pot on the grill over the cool zone. Cover the pot, close the grill lid, and cook until fork-tender, about 1-1/2 hours, turning the ribs halfway through cooking.

Transfer the ribs to a tray. Strain the braising liquid into a heatproof vessel, such as a Pyrex measuring cup, and let sit until the fat rises to the top. Discard the solids. Skim off and discard the fat. Keep warm.

Glaze:

Prepare the grill for direct grilling over medium-low heat. In a small bowl, stir the mustard, brown sugar, and Worcestershire sauce. Stir in just enough of the braising liquid, 1 Tbs. at a time, to produce a glaze thin enough to easily brush on the ribs. Brush one side of the ribs with the glaze and grill glazed side down until bubbly and beginning to darken, 3 to 5 minutes. Brush the other side, flip the ribs, and grill until the glaze is bubbly and beginning to darken, an  additional 3 to 5 minutes.

Remove the string from the ribs, put them on a warm platter, and drizzle with the remaining braising liquid.

Balsamic Glazed Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta

This simple one-pan preparation is long on flavor, thanks to the pancetta and balsamic vinegar. If pancetta is hard to come by, substitute two thick slices of bacon.

• 2 oz. pancetta, cut into 1/4-inch dice (about 1/2 cup)
• 1 to 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 10 oz. Brussels sprouts (about 18 medium sprouts), trimmed and halved through the core
• 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• Kosher salt

In a heavy 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan set over medium- low heat, slowly cook the pancetta in 1 Tbs. of the oil until golden and crisp all over, 10 to 15 minutes.

With a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a plate lined with paper towels, leaving the fat behind. You should have about 2 Tbs. of fat in the pan; if not, add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil. Have ready 1/2 cup water. Put the pan over medium-high heat and arrange the sprouts cut side down in a single layer. Cook undisturbed until nicely browned, 2 to 3 minutes. When the sprouts are browned, add the water to the pan, cover immediately, and simmer until the sprouts are tender when poked with a fork or skewer, about 3 minutes. (If the water evaporates before the sprouts get tender, add more water, 1/4 cup at a time.) With a slotted spoon, transfer the sprouts to a plate.

Return the pan to medium-high heat and if any water remains, let it boil off. Add the balsamic vinegar and a few grinds of pepper. Boil the vinegar until it’s reduced to about 2 Tbs. and looks lightly syrupy, about 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, add the butter, and stir until melted. Return the sprouts and pancetta to the pan and swirl and shake the pan to evenly coat the sprouts with the sauce. Season to taste with salt and more pepper and serve.

Chicken Braised with Red Wine Vinegar and Tomatoes

Deliciously piquant and complex, this dish depends on good-quality red wine vinegar, so use the best you have.

• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs, each cut into 4 even pieces
• 3 Tbs. olive oil
• 1 small onion, halved and thinly sliced
• 2 large cloves garlic, minced
• 1 14-oz. can diced tomatoes, drained
• 1 dried bay leaf
• 1/3 cup good-quality red wine vinegar
• 1/2 cup lower-salt chicken broth
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Put the flour, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper in a 1-gallon plastic zip-top bag. Close and shake to combine. Add the chicken to the bag, zip it closed, and shake vigorously to coat with flour.

Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a 12-inch skillet(preferably cast iron) over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add half of the chicken in a single layer and cook, flipping once, until golden, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer the chicken to a large bowl. Add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil to the pan and repeat with the remaining chicken.

Add the onion to the pan and cook, stirring, until slightly softened, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 30 seconds more. Stir in the tomatoes and bay leaf, raise the heat to high, and cook until the tomatoes begin to break down, about 2 minutes. Add the vinegar and boil vigorously until almost evaporated, about 30 seconds. Return the chicken and any accumulated juice to the pan, along with the chicken broth, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper, stirring well to combine. Bring to a boil; then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer. Cook, partially covered, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is cooked through, about 8 minutes. Stir in the parsley, cover, and cook for 1 minute more.

Season to taste with salt. Remove the bay leaf and serve.

Braised Fingerling Potatoes with Fennel, Olives, and Thyme

This rustic side dish is great with roasted lamb or pork.

• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 3/4 lb. fingerling potatoes (7 or 8 medium), cut lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slices
• 1 small bulb fennel, trimmed and halved lengthwise, then cut lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick slices
• 1 medium sweet onion, thinly sliced
• 1/2 cup lower-salt chicken broth
• 3 sprigs fresh thyme, plus 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme for garnish
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup pitted Niçoise olives

Heat the oven to 375°F.

Heat 1-1/2 Tbs. of the oil in a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the potatoes and 1/4 tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes begin to brown, about 7 minutes. Transfer the potatoes to a plate.

Add the remaining 1-1/2 Tbs. oil and the fennel to the pan with a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the onion to the pan and cook, stirring often, until starting to soften and lightly brown, 2 minutes more. Add the broth and bring to a boil. Gently nestle the potatoes into the fennel-onion mixture and add the thyme sprigs. Cover the pan and braise in the oven until the potatoes and fennel are tender, about 20 minutes.

Uncover the pan, add the olives, and continue to braise until most of the liquid has evaporated and the vegetables are meltingly tender, another 10 minutes. Remove from the oven, discard the thyme sprigs, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish with the chopped thyme and serve.

Barbecue-Braised Bourbon Beef with Mustard Glaze

Serve this incredibly tender pot roast with creamy polenta or thickly sliced roasted or grilled potatoes seasoned with olive oil, salt, and pepper.

For the beef:

• 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary
• 2 tsp. sweet Hungarian paprika 
• 1 tsp. dry mustard (preferably Coleman’s)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 4-lb. boneless beef chuck roast

For the braising liquid:

• 2 to 2-1/2 cups lower-salt chicken broth
• 1/2 cup bourbon
• 1 Tbs. coarse-grain Dijon mustard
• 2 tsp. unsulphured molasses
• 2 large yellow onions, halved and thinly sliced (about 4 cups)
• 4 medium cloves garlic, peeled

For the glaze:

• 2 Tbs. smooth Dijon mustard
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary

Season:

In a small bowl, combine the thyme, rosemary, paprika, dry mustard, and 2 tsp. each salt and pepper. Sprinkle the spice blend all over the roast. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours but preferably overnight.

Sear:

Prepare a gas grill for direct grilling over medium heat. Grill the roast until nicely browned on all sides, 4 to 6 minutes per side. Let cool briefly and then tie the roast with several loops of butcher’s twine. Put the roast in an 8-quart heavy-duty pot.

Braise:

Prepare the grill for indirect grilling. In a small bowl, whisk 1/2 cup of the chicken broth with the bourbon, mustard, and molasses and pour the mixture over the meat. Scatter the onions and garlic on top of the meat; it’s fine if some fall off. Put the pot on the grill over the cool zone. Cover the pot, close the grill lid, and cook for 1 hour.

Uncover the pot and turn the roast over so the onions are now on the bottom. Check the liquid level in the pot and add broth as necessary until there’s about an inch of liquid in the pot. Continue to cook, pot uncovered, grill lid closed, for 1 hour, stirring the onions and checking the liquid level every 20 minutes and adding broth as needed to maintain about an inch of liquid.

Replace the lid on the pot and continue to cook the meat until fork-tender, about 1 hour more, checking after 30 minutes and adding more broth as needed to maintain 1 inch of liquid. Move the meat to a tray and pat dry. Pour the onions and juices into a heatproof vessel, such as a Pyrex measuring cup, and let sit until the fat rises to the top. Skim off and discard the fat. Keep warm.

Glaze

Prepare the grill for direct grilling over medium heat. In a food processor, purée 1/4 cup of the onion mixture with the mustard and rosemary. Brush about half of the glaze on one side of the meat and put the meat on the grill, glaze side down. Brush the top of the roast with the remaining glaze. When the glaze turns brown on the bottom, after 2 to 3 minutes, flip and brown the other side, an additional 2 to 3 minutes. To serve, remove the string and slice the meat into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Ladle the onion mixture over the meat and serve.