Classic Meatloaf

If you don't see ground veal or ground pork at your grocer, ask the butcher to grind it for you. Choose ground beef that isn't too lean: 85 percent is a good bet. Many groceries carry "meatloaf mix" packages of ground beef, veal, and pork.

• 1 Tbs. vegetable or olive oil; more for the baking sheet
• 1/2 cup finely chopped onion
• 1-1/2 tsp. minced garlic
• 3/4 lb. ground beef, 85-percent lean
• 3/4 lb. ground veal
• 3/4 lb. ground pork
• 1/2 cup tomato ketchup
• 1 Tbs. Dijon-style mustard
• 1-1/2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• 3/4 cup fresh plain breadcrumbs
• 1 egg
• 1-1/2 tsp. salt
• 3/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• About 8 slices raw bacon

Heat the oven to 350°F. In a small skillet, heat the oil; add the onions and cook over medium heat until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté another 1 to 2 minutes to soften. Set aside to cool.

In a large mixing bowl, combine all the remaining ingredients except the bacon, and add the cooled onion-garlic mixture. Mix with a rubber spatula or your hands just until the ingredients are combined. Don't overwork the meat.

Oil a rimmed baking sheet or jelly roll pan, turn the meat mixture out onto the pan, and shape it into a large loaf (I like mine to look like a slightly oval loaf of bread). Or divide the mixture into four equal portions (about 6 oz. each) and shape each portion into an individual meatloaf. Wrap strips of bacon around the shaped loaf, tucking the ends under the loaf.

Bake the meatloaf until an instant-read thermometer registers 160°F, 50 to 60 minutes for a large loaf, or 25 to 35 minutes for smaller loaves. Before slicing, let the meatloaf rest for 10 to 15 minutes to allow some carryover cooking and to let the juices redistribute. To serve, slice and spoon some of the pan juices over the slices, if you like.

Osso Buco

This is the world’s best make-ahead dish—it tastes amazing on the second day. The classic accompaniment is saffron-scented Risotto alla Milanese.

• 6 1-1/4 inch-thick veal shanks
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour for dredging
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 3 cups finely diced yellow onion (about 2 medium onions)
• 1 cup finely diced celery (about 2 stalks)
• 3/4 cup finely diced carrot (about 2 small carrots)
• 1 tsp. dried oregano
• 3/4 cup dry white wine
• 2 Tbs. tomato paste
• 1 28-oz. can Italian plum tomatoes, drained and chopped, juices reserved
• 1 cup low-salt chicken broth, more if needed
• 1 large sprig thyme
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 Tbs. arrowroot mixed with 2 tsp. broth or water

Tip:

Look for arrowroot in the spice section of your grocery store.

For the gremolata:

• 3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 large cloves garlic, minced
• 1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
• 2 anchovy fillets, minced

Heat the oven to 350°F.

Tie the veal shanks around the middle with kitchen string (if they’re not tied already) and season them with salt and pepper. Put the flour in a dish. Dredge the shanks very lightly in flour, thoroughly shaking off the excess.

Have ready a roasting pan or baking dish large enough to hold the shanks in a single layer (9x13-inch works well). In a large heavy skillet, heat 3 Tbs. of the oil over medium-high heat. Put three veal shanks in the pan and sear until nicely browned on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Move the shanks to the roasting pan. Repeat with the remaining three shanks.

Carefully pour off the fat in the pan and wipe it out with paper towels (it’s fine if the browned bits remain in the pan bottom; just wipe away the used oil). Return the pan to medium heat and add the butter and remaining 1 Tbs. of oil. When the butter is melted, add the onion, celery, carrot, oregano, and 1 tsp. salt. Cook the vegetables, stirring occasionally, until soft and lightly browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high, add the wine, and cook, scraping up any brown bits with a wooden spoon, until the wine is reduced to about 1/4 cup, about 3 minutes

Stir in the tomato paste. Add the tomatoes with their juices, the broth, thyme, bay leaf, 1/2 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Bring to a boil, and pour the contents of the pan over the shanks. Cover tightly with heavy-duty aluminum foil.

Braise the veal in the oven until fork-tender, 1-1/2 to 2 hours, checking the liquid occasionally. If it has cooked down, add enough broth to keep the level about halfway up the shanks. To check for doneness, pierce a shank with a fork. The meat should pull apart easily. Taste a morsel—it should feel soft and tender. Do not overcook, or the veal will fall apart.

Gently brush most of the vegetable bits off the shanks. With a wide, flat metal spatula, carefully transfer the veal shanks to a dish. Strain the pan juices through a medium-mesh sieve into a saucepan, pressing hard on the solids with a spatula to extract as much sauce as you can. Bring the sauce to a simmer. Whisk in the arrowroot mixture and cook briefly to thicken. If you’re working ahead, stop here (see Make-ahead Tips for reheating).

Make the gremolata:

Just before finishing the sauce and serving, combine the parsley, garlic, lemon zest, and anchovies. Add two Tbs. of the gremolata to the sauce. Remove the strings from the shanks. Serve the osso buco topped with the sauce and a small sprinkling of the remaining gremolata.

Veal Scaloppine with Egg & Parmesan

I love this and cannot eat enough of it. Dipped in a light batter, the veal is substantial enough to be served alone, with just a little arugula salad alongside.

• 2 eggs
• 4 canned anchovies, finely chopped
• 1-3/4 cups freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
• 1/2 handful chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup arugula
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1/4 cup vegetable oil
• 4 veal scaloppine, about 4 oz. each
• All-purpose flour
• 4 Tbs. (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
• 2 tsp. white wine vinegar
• 1 lemon, quartered

Whisk the eggs together for 1 minute until light. Stir in the anchovies, Parmigiano, parsley, and 1/2 tsp. pepper.

Place the arugula in the bottom of four shallow serving dishes and dress with the olive oil and some black pepper.

To cook the veal, set two large frying pans over high heat and add the vegetable oil. Turn the scaloppine in the flour until evenly coated, then dip into the egg mixture.

Place two scaloppine in each of the pans and cook for 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until golden on the underside, about 2 minutes longer. Turn and cook on the other side for 2 to 3 minutes.

Add half of the butter to each frying pan. When it has melted, pour half of the vinegar into each, tilting the pans to combine the juices.

Lift out the scaloppine and lay them on the arugula. Drizzle the buttery pan juices over the veal and serve with lemon wedges.

Quick Veal Cacciatore

Tender and flavorful, veal cutlets are lean and quick-cooking. If veal isn't for you though, feel free to substitute chicken cutlets for a classic cacciatore.

• 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
• Four 4-oz. veal cutlets, pounded 1/4 inch thick
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 small yellow onion, chopped
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 8 oz. sliced cremini mushrooms (3-1/2 cups)
• 1 cup canned diced tomatoes with juices
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1-1/2 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary

Put the flour in a wide shallow bowl. Season the cutlets all over with 1 tsp. salt and 1 tsp. pepper. Dredge in the flour and shake off any excess.

Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Working in batches if necessary, cook the cutlets until dark golden-brown, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a large plate as they finish.

In the same skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 3 minutes.

Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until they release their liquid and it reduces to a glaze, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, wine, and rosemary. Bring back to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the skillet. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer until the sauce is thickened, about 7 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Add the cutlets and any accumulated juices to the sauce and cook until heated through, 1 to 2 minutes. Serve immediately.

Classic Meatloaf

If you don't see ground veal or ground pork at your grocer, ask the butcher to grind it for you. Choose ground beef that isn't too lean: 85 percent is a good bet. Many groceries carry "meatloaf mix" packages of ground beef, veal, and pork.

• 1 Tbs. vegetable or olive oil; more for the baking sheet
• 1/2 cup finely chopped onion
• 1-1/2 tsp. minced garlic
• 3/4 lb. ground beef, 85-percent lean
• 3/4 lb. ground veal
• 3/4 lb. ground pork
• 1/2 cup tomato ketchup
• 1 Tbs. Dijon-style mustard
• 1-1/2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• 3/4 cup fresh plain breadcrumbs
• 1 egg
• 1-1/2 tsp. salt
• 3/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• About 8 slices raw bacon

Heat the oven to 350°F. In a small skillet, heat the oil; add the onions and cook over medium heat until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté another 1 to 2 minutes to soften. Set aside to cool.

In a large mixing bowl, combine all the remaining ingredients except the bacon, and add the cooled onion-garlic mixture. Mix with a rubber spatula or your hands just until the ingredients are combined. Don't overwork the meat.

Oil a rimmed baking sheet or jelly roll pan, turn the meat mixture out onto the pan, and shape it into a large loaf (I like mine to look like a slightly oval loaf of bread). Or divide the mixture into four equal portions (about 6 oz. each) and shape each portion into an individual meatloaf. Wrap strips of bacon around the shaped loaf, tucking the ends under the loaf.

Bake the meatloaf until an instant-read thermometer registers 160°F, 50 to 60 minutes for a large loaf, or 25 to 35 minutes for smaller loaves. Before slicing, let the meatloaf rest for 10 to 15 minutes to allow some carryover cooking and to let the juices redistribute. To serve, slice and spoon some of the pan juices over the slices, if you like.

Fettucine with Ragu alla Bolognese

In historically wealthy Emilia-Romagna, ragù is made from a combination of ground meats—beef, veal, and pork—and enriched with milk and cream. Ragù alla Bolognese, which originated in Bologna, in the heart of the region, is a perfectly delicious example. In this version, mortadella, a smoked beef and pork sausage, brings even more rich flavor to the pot.

• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 medium carrots, finely chopped
• 2 medium celery stalks, finely chopped
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 lb. ground beef
• 1/2 lb. ground pork
• 1/2 lb. ground veal
• 1 cup dry white wine, such as Soave Classico
• Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
• Kosher or fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3/4 cup whole milk
• 3 Tbs. tomato paste
• 1-1/2 cups lower-salt beef broth
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 3 oz. thinly sliced mortadella, cut into 1/4-inch-wide strips (1/2 cup)
• 1 lb. regular or spinach fettucine
• Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano, for serving (optional)

Make the ragu

Heat the oil and butter in a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot over medium heat until the butter melts and begins to sizzle. Stir in the carrots, celery, garlic, onion, and parsley. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are soft and light golden, about 10 minutes. Add the beef, pork, and veal and mix well with a wooden spoon or spatula to break up the clumps. Cook, stirring frequently and scraping the bottom of the pot until the meat is deep brown and crumbly but still tender and not dry, 60 to 90 minutes—if the meat is browning too quickly, reduce the heat to low.
 

Raise the heat to high, stir in the wine and cook, scraping the bottom of the pan until it is almost evaporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and season the meat with the nutmeg, 1/2 tsp. salt, and several grinds of pepper. Stir in the milk and cook, stirring frequently, until most of it is absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes.

Dilute the tomato paste in a small bowl with a splash of the broth and pour it into the sauce. Mix well and then add the remaining broth. Reduce the heat to low, cover partially, and cook the sauce at a gentle simmer, stirring occasionally, until it is thick and fragrant and the vegetables have more or less dissolved, 1 to 1-1/2 hours. Stir in the cream and mortadella and simmer gently until completely heated through, about 5 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Cook the pasta and serve

Tip:

Resist the urge to rush the meat through browning—it takes 60 to 90 minutes to do this step properly, but your patience will be rewarded with a rich, deeply flavored sauce.

When ready to serve, bring a large pot of well salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta until al dente—you want it to still have some bite because it will continue to cook a bit while you’re tossing it with the ragù. Reserve about 1 cup of the cooking water and then drain the pasta. Return it to the pot and toss it with some of the ragù, adding a little cooking water if it seems dry. Serve the pasta with more ragù spooned over the top, garnished with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano, if you like.

Double-Mushroom Meatloaf

Fresh and dried mushrooms make this meatloaf extra delicious. Craving even more mushroom goodness? Pair it with the mushroom gravy. Or create your own customized meatloaf recipe with the Recipe Maker.

• 2 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. canola or olive oil
• 1 medium yellow onion, chopped
• 1 cup small-diced fresh cremini or button mushrooms
• 2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 3/4 cup dry sherry
• 4 oz. medium-coarse white bread, such as Italian or French, cut into 2-inch pieces (about 2-1/2 cups)
• 1 cup whole milk
• 1 lb. ground pork
• 1 lb. ground veal
• 2 large eggs
• 1/4 cup dried mushrooms, rehydrated in hot water and chopped
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh sage
• 1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
• Kosher Salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 3 Tbs. ketchup

Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a 10- to 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Cook the onion, mushrooms, and garlic, stirring frequently, until softened and just beginning to brown, 6 to 8 minutes.


Add the sherry, and simmer briskly, until almost dry, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and let cool until warm.


In a shallow dish that holds it in a single layer, soak the bread in the milk, flipping once, until soggy but not falling apart, 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the coarseness and freshness of the bread. Lightly squeeze a handful of bread at a time to remove some of the milk (it should be wet but not drenched). Finely chop and add to the bowl with the onion-mushroom mixture.


Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.


Add the pork, veal, and eggs to the onion mixture. Scatter the rehydrated dried mushrooms, thyme, and sage over the meat, and then sprinkle with the Worcestershire, 2-1/4 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Use your hands to gently mix all the ingredients until just combined; try not to compact the mixture as you do this.


Heat the remaining 1 tsp. of oil in a small skillet over medium-low heat. Form 1 Tbs. of the meatloaf mixture into a small patty. When the oil is hot, cook the patty on both sides until cooked through, about 5 minutes total. Transfer to a plate and let cool slightly. Taste and adjust the salt, pepper, and other seasonings as needed. Repeat until you're satisfied with the flavor.


Line a 9x13-inch baking pan with parchment. Transfer the meatloaf mixture to the baking pan and form into a 10x4-inch rectangular block (it becomes loaf-shaped as it cooks). Spread the ketchup over the top and lightly down the sides of the meatloaf to glaze it.


Bake until an instant-read thermometer registers 160°F in the center of the meatloaf, 40 to 55 minutes.


Let the meatloaf rest for 10 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board or serving platter with a large spatula and cut into 3/4- to 1-inch-thick slices.

Soup of the Bakony Outlaws

Bakony is a mountainous region of Hungary near Lake Balaton, and the outlaws must have been both gourmet and gourmand to inspire this hearty, flavorful soup. I've seen other "Bakony" recipes, and mushrooms seem to be the common bond. Maybe they were roving mushroom thieves. You'll notice that many of the ingredients are diced pretty fine, which gives the soup a wonderful texture and lots of flavor, but if you need to save some time, you can chop a bit more coarsely, though you should keep the bacon and veal very small.

• 3 Tbs. oil
• 2 onions, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 2 oz. bacon, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 1-1/2 Tbs. sweet paprika
• 8 oz. thin veal cutlet, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 2 to 3 cups homemade or low-salt canned chicken stock
• 2 medium carrots, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 2 medium turnips, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 8 oz. mushrooms, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 2 medium potatoes, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 2 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and cut in 1/4-inch dice or 4 canned seeded, chopped tomatoes
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup sour cream
• 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1 cup heavy cream or crème fraîche
• 3 Tbs. snipped fresh dill, plus small sprigs for decoration

Heat the oil in a large saucepan or Dutch oven and cook the onions and bacon over medium heat until the onions start to color, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the paprika and cook, stirring, another 2 minutes to release and develop its flavor. Add the veal and just enough stock to cover it. Cover the pan and simmer for 20 minutes.

Add the carrots, turnips, mushrooms, potatoes, tomatoes, and more stock, reserving about 1 cup; don't worry if the liquid doesn't cover the vegetables at this point. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the vegetables are tender, another 20 minutes. Add a little more stock if the soup looks too dry during cooking, bearing in mind that more liquid will be added later.

Put the sour cream in a small bowl and stir in the flour with a fork or whisk; stir in the cream. Pour this into the soup and bring it to a boil, stirring constantly. Simmer for 2 minutes. Taste and adjust the salt and pepper. Just before serving, stir in the chopped fresh dill and toss some sprigs on top for decoration, if you like.

Roast Rack of Veal with a Lemon, Caper, and Tarragon Crust

I love rack of veal, but I save it for very special occasions because it’s generally a special-order cut, and it isn’t cheap.

• 1 6-rib trimmed (but not frenched) veal rack with the chine bone removed, 4 to 6 lb. after the chine is removed
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 1/4 medium red onion, roughly chopped (to yield about 1/2 cup)
• 1/4 cup capers, drained and rinsed
• 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
• 2 Tbs. Dijon mustard
• 1 large egg
• 3/4 cup coarse fresh breadcrumbs, preferably from a baguette or other firm white bread
• 1/3 cup roughly chopped fresh tarragon
• 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano (grated on the small holes of a box grater or on a rasp grater)
• 2 scallions (white and green parts), thinly sliced (about 1/2 cup)
• Finely grated zest of 1 medium lemon
• Rémoulade, for serving

Tip:

Buying a rack of veal: A rack of veal can be a special-order cut, so talk to your butcher up to a week in advance to be sure it’s available. Ask the butcher to remove the chine bone, which is the backbone, from the rack so that you can cut between the ribs when you carve the cooked rack. Also tell the butcher you want the rack completely trimmed but not frenched (which involves stripping away all the fat, meat, and connective tissue from the tips of the rib bones). Veal weights can range widely; ask for a smaller rack if possible.

Let the roast sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Put a roasting rack in a roasting pan or a heavyduty rimmed baking sheet. (Line the pan with foil for easier clean-up, if you like.)

Season the veal liberally with salt and pepper on all sides. Turn on the exhaust fan. Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. When the pan is very hot, brown the meat on all sides, including the ends, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer the meat to the roasting rack, meaty side up. Set aside to cool while you prepare the crust.

Purée the red onion, capers, lemon juice, mustard, and egg in a food processor. The mixture will be fairly loose.

In a small bowl, stir the breadcrumbs, tarragon, Parmigiano, scallions, and lemon zest. When the veal is cool enough to touch, pour the onion purée over the meat, using a spatula to spread it evenly. Some of the mixture will spill off the roast and into the pan—that’s fine. Pat the breadcrumb mixture into the onion purée on the top and sides of the rack of veal, pressing slightly to help the crust adhere.

Roast the veal until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat reads 125° to 130°F for medium rare, 55 to 90 minutes, depending on the size of the rack. (To keep the crust from overbrowning, start checking on the roast after 30 minutes of cooking; when the crust is golden brown, tent it with a sheet of aluminum foil.) While the veal is roasting, prepare the rémoulade.

Remove the veal from the oven and let rest for 10 minutes (it will continue to cook as it rests) before carving into single chops and serving with the rémoulade. Don’t fret if some of the crust falls off the meat when you carve.

Fettucine with Ragu alla Bolognese

In historically wealthy Emilia-Romagna, ragù is made from a combination of ground meats—beef, veal, and pork—and enriched with milk and cream. Ragù alla Bolognese, which originated in Bologna, in the heart of the region, is a perfectly delicious example. In this version, mortadella, a smoked beef and pork sausage, brings even more rich flavor to the pot.

• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 medium carrots, finely chopped
• 2 medium celery stalks, finely chopped
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 lb. ground beef
• 1/2 lb. ground pork
• 1/2 lb. ground veal
• 1 cup dry white wine, such as Soave Classico
• Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
• Kosher or fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3/4 cup whole milk
• 3 Tbs. tomato paste
• 1-1/2 cups lower-salt beef broth
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 3 oz. thinly sliced mortadella, cut into 1/4-inch-wide strips (1/2 cup)
• 1 lb. regular or spinach fettucine
• Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano, for serving (optional)

Make the ragu

Heat the oil and butter in a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot over medium heat until the butter melts and begins to sizzle. Stir in the carrots, celery, garlic, onion, and parsley. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are soft and light golden, about 10 minutes. Add the beef, pork, and veal and mix well with a wooden spoon or spatula to break up the clumps. Cook, stirring frequently and scraping the bottom of the pot until the meat is deep brown and crumbly but still tender and not dry, 60 to 90 minutes—if the meat is browning too quickly, reduce the heat to low.
 

Raise the heat to high, stir in the wine and cook, scraping the bottom of the pan until it is almost evaporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and season the meat with the nutmeg, 1/2 tsp. salt, and several grinds of pepper. Stir in the milk and cook, stirring frequently, until most of it is absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes.

Dilute the tomato paste in a small bowl with a splash of the broth and pour it into the sauce. Mix well and then add the remaining broth. Reduce the heat to low, cover partially, and cook the sauce at a gentle simmer, stirring occasionally, until it is thick and fragrant and the vegetables have more or less dissolved, 1 to 1-1/2 hours. Stir in the cream and mortadella and simmer gently until completely heated through, about 5 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Cook the pasta and serve

Tip:

Resist the urge to rush the meat through browning—it takes 60 to 90 minutes to do this step properly, but your patience will be rewarded with a rich, deeply flavored sauce.

When ready to serve, bring a large pot of well salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta until al dente—you want it to still have some bite because it will continue to cook a bit while you’re tossing it with the ragù. Reserve about 1 cup of the cooking water and then drain the pasta. Return it to the pot and toss it with some of the ragù, adding a little cooking water if it seems dry. Serve the pasta with more ragù spooned over the top, garnished with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano, if you like.

Veal Stew with Bacon and Winter Vegetables

This hearty stew is the perfect dinner for a cold winter's night. Bacon adds a touch of smoky flavor to the mild, tender veal.

• 3 lb. boneless veal shoulder or leg, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces
• 2 oz. thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
• 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tsp. minced fresh thyme
• 1 tsp. minced fresh marjoram
• 2 1-inch wide strips orange zest
• 2 dried bay leaves
• 1 cup sweet vermouth
• 2-1/2 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought chicken broth
• 3 cups diced celery root (1-inch dice)
• 3 cups carrot pieces (1-inch pieces)
• 2 Tbs. coarse-grained mustard

Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Spread the veal on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.

In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, cook the bacon in the oil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned but not crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate and set aside. Do not wipe out the pan.

Heat the bacon fat over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of the veal with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the veal to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the veal, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the veal is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.

Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the onion, celery, and coarsely chopped carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in garlic, thyme, marjoram, orange zest, and bay leaves and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Return the bacon to the pot.

Add the vermouth, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the chicken broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.

Return the veal to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.

After 30 minutes of stewing, add the celery root and carrot pieces to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, and cook until the veal is fork-tender, 1 to 1-1/2 hours more (shoulder cuts will take longer than leg cuts).

Stir in the mustard. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Fettucine with Ragu alla Bolognese

In historically wealthy Emilia-Romagna, ragù is made from a combination of ground meats—beef, veal, and pork—and enriched with milk and cream. Ragù alla Bolognese, which originated in Bologna, in the heart of the region, is a perfectly delicious example. In this version, mortadella, a smoked beef and pork sausage, brings even more rich flavor to the pot.

• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 medium carrots, finely chopped
• 2 medium celery stalks, finely chopped
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 lb. ground beef
• 1/2 lb. ground pork
• 1/2 lb. ground veal
• 1 cup dry white wine, such as Soave Classico
• Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
• Kosher or fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3/4 cup whole milk
• 3 Tbs. tomato paste
• 1-1/2 cups lower-salt beef broth
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 3 oz. thinly sliced mortadella, cut into 1/4-inch-wide strips (1/2 cup)
• 1 lb. regular or spinach fettucine
• Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano, for serving (optional)

Make the ragu

Heat the oil and butter in a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot over medium heat until the butter melts and begins to sizzle. Stir in the carrots, celery, garlic, onion, and parsley. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are soft and light golden, about 10 minutes. Add the beef, pork, and veal and mix well with a wooden spoon or spatula to break up the clumps. Cook, stirring frequently and scraping the bottom of the pot until the meat is deep brown and crumbly but still tender and not dry, 60 to 90 minutes—if the meat is browning too quickly, reduce the heat to low.
 

Raise the heat to high, stir in the wine and cook, scraping the bottom of the pan until it is almost evaporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and season the meat with the nutmeg, 1/2 tsp. salt, and several grinds of pepper. Stir in the milk and cook, stirring frequently, until most of it is absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes.

Dilute the tomato paste in a small bowl with a splash of the broth and pour it into the sauce. Mix well and then add the remaining broth. Reduce the heat to low, cover partially, and cook the sauce at a gentle simmer, stirring occasionally, until it is thick and fragrant and the vegetables have more or less dissolved, 1 to 1-1/2 hours. Stir in the cream and mortadella and simmer gently until completely heated through, about 5 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Cook the pasta and serve

Tip:

Resist the urge to rush the meat through browning—it takes 60 to 90 minutes to do this step properly, but your patience will be rewarded with a rich, deeply flavored sauce.

When ready to serve, bring a large pot of well salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta until al dente—you want it to still have some bite because it will continue to cook a bit while you’re tossing it with the ragù. Reserve about 1 cup of the cooking water and then drain the pasta. Return it to the pot and toss it with some of the ragù, adding a little cooking water if it seems dry. Serve the pasta with more ragù spooned over the top, garnished with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano, if you like.

Osso Buco

This is the world’s best make-ahead dish—it tastes amazing on the second day. The classic accompaniment is saffron-scented Risotto alla Milanese.

• 6 1-1/4 inch-thick veal shanks
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour for dredging
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 3 cups finely diced yellow onion (about 2 medium onions)
• 1 cup finely diced celery (about 2 stalks)
• 3/4 cup finely diced carrot (about 2 small carrots)
• 1 tsp. dried oregano
• 3/4 cup dry white wine
• 2 Tbs. tomato paste
• 1 28-oz. can Italian plum tomatoes, drained and chopped, juices reserved
• 1 cup low-salt chicken broth, more if needed
• 1 large sprig thyme
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 Tbs. arrowroot mixed with 2 tsp. broth or water

Tip:

Look for arrowroot in the spice section of your grocery store.

For the gremolata:

• 3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 large cloves garlic, minced
• 1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
• 2 anchovy fillets, minced

Heat the oven to 350°F.

Tie the veal shanks around the middle with kitchen string (if they’re not tied already) and season them with salt and pepper. Put the flour in a dish. Dredge the shanks very lightly in flour, thoroughly shaking off the excess.

Have ready a roasting pan or baking dish large enough to hold the shanks in a single layer (9x13-inch works well). In a large heavy skillet, heat 3 Tbs. of the oil over medium-high heat. Put three veal shanks in the pan and sear until nicely browned on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Move the shanks to the roasting pan. Repeat with the remaining three shanks.

Carefully pour off the fat in the pan and wipe it out with paper towels (it’s fine if the browned bits remain in the pan bottom; just wipe away the used oil). Return the pan to medium heat and add the butter and remaining 1 Tbs. of oil. When the butter is melted, add the onion, celery, carrot, oregano, and 1 tsp. salt. Cook the vegetables, stirring occasionally, until soft and lightly browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high, add the wine, and cook, scraping up any brown bits with a wooden spoon, until the wine is reduced to about 1/4 cup, about 3 minutes

Stir in the tomato paste. Add the tomatoes with their juices, the broth, thyme, bay leaf, 1/2 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Bring to a boil, and pour the contents of the pan over the shanks. Cover tightly with heavy-duty aluminum foil.

Braise the veal in the oven until fork-tender, 1-1/2 to 2 hours, checking the liquid occasionally. If it has cooked down, add enough broth to keep the level about halfway up the shanks. To check for doneness, pierce a shank with a fork. The meat should pull apart easily. Taste a morsel—it should feel soft and tender. Do not overcook, or the veal will fall apart.

Gently brush most of the vegetable bits off the shanks. With a wide, flat metal spatula, carefully transfer the veal shanks to a dish. Strain the pan juices through a medium-mesh sieve into a saucepan, pressing hard on the solids with a spatula to extract as much sauce as you can. Bring the sauce to a simmer. Whisk in the arrowroot mixture and cook briefly to thicken. If you’re working ahead, stop here (see Make-ahead Tips for reheating).

Make the gremolata:

Just before finishing the sauce and serving, combine the parsley, garlic, lemon zest, and anchovies. Add two Tbs. of the gremolata to the sauce. Remove the strings from the shanks. Serve the osso buco topped with the sauce and a small sprinkling of the remaining gremolata.

Soup of the Bakony Outlaws

Bakony is a mountainous region of Hungary near Lake Balaton, and the outlaws must have been both gourmet and gourmand to inspire this hearty, flavorful soup. I've seen other "Bakony" recipes, and mushrooms seem to be the common bond. Maybe they were roving mushroom thieves. You'll notice that many of the ingredients are diced pretty fine, which gives the soup a wonderful texture and lots of flavor, but if you need to save some time, you can chop a bit more coarsely, though you should keep the bacon and veal very small.

• 3 Tbs. oil
• 2 onions, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 2 oz. bacon, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 1-1/2 Tbs. sweet paprika
• 8 oz. thin veal cutlet, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 2 to 3 cups homemade or low-salt canned chicken stock
• 2 medium carrots, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 2 medium turnips, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 8 oz. mushrooms, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 2 medium potatoes, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 2 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and cut in 1/4-inch dice or 4 canned seeded, chopped tomatoes
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup sour cream
• 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1 cup heavy cream or crème fraîche
• 3 Tbs. snipped fresh dill, plus small sprigs for decoration

Heat the oil in a large saucepan or Dutch oven and cook the onions and bacon over medium heat until the onions start to color, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the paprika and cook, stirring, another 2 minutes to release and develop its flavor. Add the veal and just enough stock to cover it. Cover the pan and simmer for 20 minutes.

Add the carrots, turnips, mushrooms, potatoes, tomatoes, and more stock, reserving about 1 cup; don't worry if the liquid doesn't cover the vegetables at this point. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the vegetables are tender, another 20 minutes. Add a little more stock if the soup looks too dry during cooking, bearing in mind that more liquid will be added later.

Put the sour cream in a small bowl and stir in the flour with a fork or whisk; stir in the cream. Pour this into the soup and bring it to a boil, stirring constantly. Simmer for 2 minutes. Taste and adjust the salt and pepper. Just before serving, stir in the chopped fresh dill and toss some sprigs on top for decoration, if you like.

Breaded Veal Cutlets with a Tricolor Salad

This recipe works best with high-quality veal, but it’s also excellent with turkey breast or pork. If you can, try to use breadcrumbs from a stale loaf of good peasant bread. Serve the veal right on top of the salad.

For the salad:

• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 heads endive, sliced crosswise
• Small bunch arugula, washed and dried, tough stems trimmed
• Small head radicchio, torn into bite-size pieces

For the veal:

• 1 lb. top round veal or 4 veal cutlets
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
• Kosher salt
• 1/2 tsp. ground white pepper
• 1-1/2 cups homemade dry breadcrumbs
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 eggs, beaten with a pinch of salt
• 3 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 4 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 lemon, quartered

Make the salad dressing:

Pour the vinegar into a large bowl and then whisk the oil into the vinegar in a slow, steady stream; season with salt and pepper.

Prepare the veal:

If using top round, slice it 1/4 inch thick. Pound the slices or cutlets between sheets of waxed paper, using the side of a heavy cleaver or the bottom of a small pan, and using a light slapping motion. Pound each until 1/8 inch thick.  Combine the flour, 1 tsp. salt, and white pepper on a large plate. Combine the breadcrumbs and parsley on a large plate and set this closest to the stove. Put the beaten eggs in a shallow soup bowl next to it, then the flour mixture, and then the veal.

Heat a sauté pan over medium heat. Dry the veal with a paper towel and lightly season it with salt. When the pan is hot, add the oil and butter. While the butter is melting, dredge the first piece of veal in the flour, dip it in the egg and then in the breadcrumbs, pressing the crumbs into the meat to coat it. Put the meat in the pan. Working quickly, coat the next piece of meat and put it in the pan, adding only as much meat as will fit without touching or crowding. When the underside of each piece is golden brown (about 2 minutes), turn and cook the second side until golden, about 1 minute.

Toss the endive, arugula, and radicchio with the salad dressing. Arrange the salad on dinner plates and top each portion with a veal cutlet. Serve with a wedge of lemon.

Veal Chops with Pears and Green Peppercorn Sauce

Classic green peppercorn sauce  is  treated to a double dose of fruitiness from fresh Forelle pears and a hit of pear brandy. Don’t be tempted to opt for boned veal chops: the bones help keep the meat moist and add flavor. 

• 4 (1-inch-thick) bone-in veal loin chops (about 2 lb. total)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1/2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 small shallot, minced (about 2 Tbs.)
• 2 small firm-ripe pears (preferably Forelle; 6 oz. each), cored and cut into 1/2- inch dice
• 1/2 Tbs. cracked green peppercorns
• 1/4 cup pear brandy
• 1/2 cup lower-salt chicken broth
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh tarragon

Season the veal chops all over with 1 tsp. salt and 1/2 tsp. black pepper. Heat the butter and oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Cook the veal chops, flipping once, until browned and an instant-read thermometer registers 135°F in the center of each chop, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate.


Reduce the heat to medium, add the shallot to the pan, and cook until beginning to soften, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the pears and green peppercorns and cook until the pears soften a little, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the brandy and scrape up any browned bits stuck to the pan with a wooden spoon; cook until almost dry, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the chicken broth and reduce by half, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the heavy cream and tarragon.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.  Return the veal chops to the pan and cook until the chops are warmed through, about 1 minute.  Transfer the chops to plates and spoon the pears and sauce over them.

Double-Mushroom Meatloaf

Fresh and dried mushrooms make this meatloaf extra delicious. Craving even more mushroom goodness? Pair it with the mushroom gravy. Or create your own customized meatloaf recipe with the Recipe Maker.

• 2 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. canola or olive oil
• 1 medium yellow onion, chopped
• 1 cup small-diced fresh cremini or button mushrooms
• 2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 3/4 cup dry sherry
• 4 oz. medium-coarse white bread, such as Italian or French, cut into 2-inch pieces (about 2-1/2 cups)
• 1 cup whole milk
• 1 lb. ground pork
• 1 lb. ground veal
• 2 large eggs
• 1/4 cup dried mushrooms, rehydrated in hot water and chopped
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh sage
• 1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
• Kosher Salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 3 Tbs. ketchup

Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a 10- to 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Cook the onion, mushrooms, and garlic, stirring frequently, until softened and just beginning to brown, 6 to 8 minutes.


Add the sherry, and simmer briskly, until almost dry, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and let cool until warm.


In a shallow dish that holds it in a single layer, soak the bread in the milk, flipping once, until soggy but not falling apart, 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the coarseness and freshness of the bread. Lightly squeeze a handful of bread at a time to remove some of the milk (it should be wet but not drenched). Finely chop and add to the bowl with the onion-mushroom mixture.


Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.


Add the pork, veal, and eggs to the onion mixture. Scatter the rehydrated dried mushrooms, thyme, and sage over the meat, and then sprinkle with the Worcestershire, 2-1/4 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Use your hands to gently mix all the ingredients until just combined; try not to compact the mixture as you do this.


Heat the remaining 1 tsp. of oil in a small skillet over medium-low heat. Form 1 Tbs. of the meatloaf mixture into a small patty. When the oil is hot, cook the patty on both sides until cooked through, about 5 minutes total. Transfer to a plate and let cool slightly. Taste and adjust the salt, pepper, and other seasonings as needed. Repeat until you're satisfied with the flavor.


Line a 9x13-inch baking pan with parchment. Transfer the meatloaf mixture to the baking pan and form into a 10x4-inch rectangular block (it becomes loaf-shaped as it cooks). Spread the ketchup over the top and lightly down the sides of the meatloaf to glaze it.


Bake until an instant-read thermometer registers 160°F in the center of the meatloaf, 40 to 55 minutes.


Let the meatloaf rest for 10 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board or serving platter with a large spatula and cut into 3/4- to 1-inch-thick slices.

Slow-Cooker Osso Buco

There are two tricks to this recipe: browning the veal shanks before they go into the slow cooker and reducing the sauce before serving. The result is an osso buco you’d be hard-pressed to distinguish from the labor-intensive classic (trust us).

• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
• Four 1-1/2- to 2-inch-thick veal shanks (about 2-1/2 lb.)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 cup dry white wine
• One 14-1/2-oz. can diced tomatoes
• 3/4 cup lower-salt chicken broth
• 1 small red onion, chopped (1-1/2 cups)
• 1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into
• 1/4-inch-thick rounds (1/2 cup)
• 1 stalk celery, chopped (1/2 cup)
• 5 sprigs fresh thyme
• 3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
• 1 large clove garlic, minced (1 tsp.)

Put the flour in a wide, shallow dish. Season the veal shanks all over with salt and pepper and dredge in the flour; shake off the excess flour.


Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the butter, and when it foams, add the shanks to the skillet. Cook until golden, turning once, about 10 minutes. Transfer the shanks to a slow cooker.


Add the wine to the skillet. Scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the skillet and pour the contents of the skillet into the slow cooker. Add the tomatoes and their juices, chicken broth, onion, carrot, celery, and thyme. Cover and cook on low heat for 6 to 8 hours—the meat will be very tender and almost falling off the bone.


Transfer the shanks to a platter and cover with foil to keep warm. Pour the sauce from the slow cooker into a large skillet. Simmer over medium heat until reduced to about 2 cups, 10 to 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the parsley, lemon zest, and garlic to make a gremolata. Serve the veal shanks topped with the sauce and the gremolata.

Soup of the Bakony Outlaws

Bakony is a mountainous region of Hungary near Lake Balaton, and the outlaws must have been both gourmet and gourmand to inspire this hearty, flavorful soup. I've seen other "Bakony" recipes, and mushrooms seem to be the common bond. Maybe they were roving mushroom thieves. You'll notice that many of the ingredients are diced pretty fine, which gives the soup a wonderful texture and lots of flavor, but if you need to save some time, you can chop a bit more coarsely, though you should keep the bacon and veal very small.

• 3 Tbs. oil
• 2 onions, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 2 oz. bacon, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 1-1/2 Tbs. sweet paprika
• 8 oz. thin veal cutlet, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 2 to 3 cups homemade or low-salt canned chicken stock
• 2 medium carrots, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 2 medium turnips, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 8 oz. mushrooms, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 2 medium potatoes, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 2 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and cut in 1/4-inch dice or 4 canned seeded, chopped tomatoes
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup sour cream
• 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1 cup heavy cream or crème fraîche
• 3 Tbs. snipped fresh dill, plus small sprigs for decoration

Heat the oil in a large saucepan or Dutch oven and cook the onions and bacon over medium heat until the onions start to color, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the paprika and cook, stirring, another 2 minutes to release and develop its flavor. Add the veal and just enough stock to cover it. Cover the pan and simmer for 20 minutes.

Add the carrots, turnips, mushrooms, potatoes, tomatoes, and more stock, reserving about 1 cup; don't worry if the liquid doesn't cover the vegetables at this point. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the vegetables are tender, another 20 minutes. Add a little more stock if the soup looks too dry during cooking, bearing in mind that more liquid will be added later.

Put the sour cream in a small bowl and stir in the flour with a fork or whisk; stir in the cream. Pour this into the soup and bring it to a boil, stirring constantly. Simmer for 2 minutes. Taste and adjust the salt and pepper. Just before serving, stir in the chopped fresh dill and toss some sprigs on top for decoration, if you like.

Veal Stew with Bacon and Winter Vegetables

This hearty stew is the perfect dinner for a cold winter's night. Bacon adds a touch of smoky flavor to the mild, tender veal.

• 3 lb. boneless veal shoulder or leg, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces
• 2 oz. thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
• 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tsp. minced fresh thyme
• 1 tsp. minced fresh marjoram
• 2 1-inch wide strips orange zest
• 2 dried bay leaves
• 1 cup sweet vermouth
• 2-1/2 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought chicken broth
• 3 cups diced celery root (1-inch dice)
• 3 cups carrot pieces (1-inch pieces)
• 2 Tbs. coarse-grained mustard

Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Spread the veal on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.

In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, cook the bacon in the oil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned but not crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate and set aside. Do not wipe out the pan.

Heat the bacon fat over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of the veal with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the veal to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the veal, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the veal is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.

Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the onion, celery, and coarsely chopped carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in garlic, thyme, marjoram, orange zest, and bay leaves and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Return the bacon to the pot.

Add the vermouth, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the chicken broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.

Return the veal to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.

After 30 minutes of stewing, add the celery root and carrot pieces to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, and cook until the veal is fork-tender, 1 to 1-1/2 hours more (shoulder cuts will take longer than leg cuts).

Stir in the mustard. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.