Spiced Quince and Apple Sauce

If you happen to see bumpy yellow quinces in the fall at your supermarket or farmer's market, snatch them up; they make a wonderfully fragrant addition to plain old applesauce, and turn it a beautiful tawny-pink color. Vanilla bean and star anise lend even more complexity.

• 2 medium quinces, peeled, quartered, and cored
• 1/4 cup sugar, plus more to taste
• 4 large sweet apples, such as Jonagold, peeled, quartered, and cored
• One 3-inch cinnamon stick
• 1/2 vanilla bean, split
• 1/2 star anise

Put the quinces, 1/4 cup sugar, and 1 cup water in a heavy medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, until the quinces turn pink and are beginning to soften, about an hour.

Add the apples, cinnamon stick, vanilla bean, and star anise to the pan and continue simmering, covered and stirring occasionally, for another 45 minutes, or until all the fruit is very tender. Taste for sweetness and add a bit more sugar if needed.

Remove from the heat and let cool, then fish out the spices and discard. Mash with a potato masher or put through a food mill using  a medium disk. Serve slightly warm or cold.

Phyllo Chips with Vanilla Ice Cream & Strawberry Mash Dip

Forget about nachos and salsa—for dessert lovers like me, this is the ultimate take on chips and dip. We used phyllo from a 1-lb. twin pack to test this recipe. Twin-pack sheets are 9 by 14 inches, smaller than those from a single pack. If you can find only larger, single-pack phyllo, either cut the sheets to size or use the larger sheets as they are, sprinkling 2 Tbs. sugar instead of 1-1/2 Tbs. between each layer.

• 3 9x14-inch sheets frozen phyllo dough, thawed overnight in the refrigerator (see tip at right)
• 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted
• 6-1/2 Tbs. granulated sugar; more as needed
• 1 pint strawberries, rinsed and hulled
• 1 pint good-quality vanilla ice cream, slightly softened

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F. Line a 13x17-inch baking sheet with parchment. Put one sheet of phyllo on the pan and brush with some of the melted butter. Sprinkle evenly with 1-1/2 Tbs. sugar and lay another sheet of phyllo on top. Brush with the melted butter and sprinkle with 1-1/2 Tbs. sugar. Lay the last sheet of phyllo on top, brush with more melted butter, and sprinkle with 1-1/2 Tbs. sugar.

With the tip of a sharp knife, cut the phyllo lengthwise into 4 even strips. Then cut each strip on the diagonal, alternating the direction of the knife to form little triangles (see photo below). Cover with parchment and set another baking sheet on top. This will keep the phyllo from buckling during baking.

Bake until the phyllo is golden brown (lift the pan and top piece of parchment to check the color), about 15 minutes. To keep the phyllo chips extra flat, let them cool before unstacking the pans and removing the chips. They are best served the same day but will stay crisp for 2 days if stored in an airtight container.

While the chips are baking, make the strawberry mash. With a pastry cutter or a potato masher, smash the strawberries in a medium bowl with the remaining 2 Tbs. sugar until pulverized but still a bit chunky. Taste; I like it on the tart side since the phyllo chips and ice cream are quite sweet. Cover with plastic wrap and keep chilled.

Put two scoops of vanilla ice cream in eight individual dessert bowls and spoon about an eighth of the strawberry mash over each portion. Tuck some phyllo chips in the ice cream or serve the chips on the side. If the ice cream is soft enough, you can use the chips to scoop it like a dip.

Lemon-Rosemary Christmas Trees

Rosemary gives these holiday cutout cookies a subtle piny touch, and lemon adds brightness.

For the Cookies:

• 15 oz. (3-1/3 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. table salt
• 8 oz. (1 cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh rosemary
• 1 large egg
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Tip:

For the best results, measure your flour by weight instead of volume. (1 cup of all-purpose flour equals 4-1/2 oz.) If you don’t have a scale, be sure to use the proper technique when filling your measuring cups.

For the Icing:

• 1 large egg white (see note at right)
• 6-1/2 oz. (1-1/2 cups plus 2 Tbs.) confectioners' sugar; more as needed
• 1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
• Decorating sugar or edible dragees (optional)

Tip:

Note: The risk of salmonella infection from consuming raw eggs is very low, but you can eliminate it entirely by using pasteurized eggs.

Make the cookies:

In a medium bowl, whisk the flour and salt. With a hand mixer or a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Mix in the lemon zest and rosemary. Add the egg and vanilla; continue beating until well blended and smooth, about 30 seconds more. Reduce the speed to low and gradually add the dry ingredients. Mix until the dough is just combined; don't overmix. Divide the dough into 2 equal portions.

Roll one half of the dough between two sheets of parchment to an even 3/16-inch thickness. Slide the dough and parchment onto a cookie sheet and refrigerate until firm, about 30 minutes. Repeat with the remaining dough.

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Line four cookie sheets with parchment.

Using a 3-1/2-inch (or similar) Christmas tree cookie cutter, cut out the cookies and arrange them 1 inch apart on the cookie sheets. Press the scraps together, reroll, and cut (if the dough becomes too soft to handle, chill until firm). Repeat one more time and then discard the scraps. Repeat with the remaining dough.

Bake two sheets at a time until the cookies' edges are golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes, rotating and swapping the sheets' positions halfway through for even baking. Cool the cookies on racks.

Make the icing:

In a medium bowl, whisk the egg white, sugar, and lemon juice until smooth. If not using immediately, transfer the icing to a small bowl and press plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the icing to prevent it from drying out.

Decorate the cookies:

Spoon some of the icing into a small pastry bag with a small (3/16 inch) plain tip. (Or use a small plastic bag and cut a tiny bit off a bottom corner of the bag.) Pipe the icing onto the cookies to outline the rim. (If the icing is too thick to pipe, put it back in the bowl and stir in water, a drop at a time, until it pipes easily but still retains its shape. If the icing is too thin, add confectioners' sugar, 1 tsp. at a time.)

If using decorating sugar or dragées, apply them while the icing is wet. Once the icing is completely dry and hard, store the cookies in airtight containers in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Pineapple-Ginger Brown Sugar Crisp

Fruit crisps usually showcase apples or stone fruit, but they’re just as good, if not better, made with pineapple. As it bakes, the pineapple releases much of its moisture, so the crisp comes out extra juicy and full of sweet-tart flavor. Serve with vanilla ice cream.  

• 1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar
• 2-1/4 oz. (1/2 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 7/8 oz. (1/4 cup) old-fashioned rolled oats (not quick-cooking or instant)
• 2 oz. (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
• Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
• Kosher salt
• 1 large fresh pineapple (about 4-1/4 lb.), peeled, cored, cut lengthwise into eighths, then crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 Tbs. fresh lime juice
• 1 Tbs. finely grated fresh ginger
• 1 Tbs. cornstarch

Tip:

See the Test Kitchen post to learn how to prep a pineapple.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.

Combine the brown sugar, flour, oats, butter, nutmeg, and 1/8 tsp. salt in a medium bowl. Using your fingers, rub in the butter until it’s about the size of small peas and the mixture resembles coarse, crumbly breadcrumbs; it should hold together when squeezed. Refrigerate, uncovered, while you make the filling.

Put the pineapple in a large bowl. In a small bowl, combine the lime juice, ginger, and a pinch of salt and whisk to blend. Stir the lime mixture into the pineapple. Sprinkle the cornstarch over the pineapple and stir again.

Transfer the pineapple to a 9-inch square baking dish and sprinkle the crumb mixture evenly over the top. Cover with foil and bake for 20 minutes. Remove the foil and continue to bake until the fruit is bubbling around the edges and the top is golden-brown and crisp, about 15  minutes more. Let cool for at least 15 minutes before serving.

Gingerbread Cookies

Lightly flour the sharp edge of your cookie cutters to keep the dough from sticking.Visit the Guide to Christmas for more holiday recipes and tips for perfect Christmas cookies.

• 14-1/4 oz. (3 cups plus 2 Tbs.) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 2 tsp. ground ginger
• 1 tsp. baking soda
• 1/2 tsp. ground cloves
• 1/2 tsp. table salt
• 3/4 lb. (1-1/2 cups) unsalted butter, softened at room temperature
• 1 cup very firmly packed light brown sugar
• 1/4 cup molasses
• 1 large egg

Tip:

For the best results, measure your flour by weight instead of volume. (1 cup of all-purpose flour equals 4-1/2 oz.) If you don’t have a scale, be sure to use the proper technique when filling your measuring cups.

Sift together the flour, cinnamon, ginger, baking soda, cloves, and salt. Using a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, beat the butter, brown sugar, and molasses on medium until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Beat in the egg until thoroughly combined. Scrape the bowl with a rubber spatula. With the mixer on low speed, slowly add the flour until blended. Divide the dough, wrap each half in plastic, and chill until firm enough to roll, about 1 hour.

Position a rack in the center of the oven; heat the oven to 350°F. Lay each piece of dough between two long sheets of parchment or waxed paper. If the dough is very firm, let it sit until pliable. Roll it to about 1/8 inch thick. Peel off the top layer of paper and cut out cookies with a cookie cutter. Put the sheet of dough in the freezer for a few minutes until the dough firms enough to easily transfer the cutouts to ungreased cookie sheets (space them about 2  inches apart). Gather and reroll the scraps. Bake until the edges are golden brown, 10 to 12  min. Let cool on the sheet for 1 minute before transferring the cookies to a rack to cool.

The cookies can be stored in an airtight container for three to four days.

Coconut Cream Pie

Even people who say they don’t like coconut love this pie, excerpted from the cookbook Mother's Best. What sets it apart is the chocolate cookie crust and the coconut rum. If you don’t already stock coconut-flavored rum in your home bar, get a bottle if only for this recipe. It really takes the flavor to another level.

For the crust:

• 6 oz. Nabisco® Famous Chocolate Wafers (about 30 cookies) 
• 5 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted

For the filling:

• 1-1/2 cups whole milk
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 1 vanilla bean, split in half lengthwise
• 6 large egg yolks
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1/8 tsp. kosher salt
• 2 Tbs. cornstarch
• 1-1/2 cups sweetened, shredded coconut, toasted, plus more for garnish
• 4 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 Tbs. coconut rum, such as Malibu

For the topping:

• 1-1/2 cups cold heavy cream
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1/4 cup confectioners’ sugar

To make the crust:

Heat the oven to 350°F and place a rack in the middle of the oven. Place the chocolate wafers in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade and pulse until ground into evenly sized crumbs. Or place them in zip-top bag and pulverize them with a rolling pin or meat mallet until finely crushed. You should have about 1-1/2 cups of crumbs.

Place the crumbs in a medium mixing bowl. Drizzle in the melted butter and mix with a fork until the crumbs are evenly moistened (if using a food processor, drizzle the butter through the feed tube while pulsing). 

Transfer the buttered crumbs to a 9-inch pie plate, and use your fingertips or the back of a spoon to press the mixture evenly into the pie plate, spreading it up the sides but not over the rim. (I find the back of a spoon works best for pressing the crumbs into place and scraping away the thicker areas where the bottom meets the sides to even out the crumbs.)

Bake for 7 to 10 minutes, or until the sides of the crust feel firm to the touch. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely before filling.

To make the filling:

Place the milk, cream, and vanilla bean in a large (4-quart) saucepan. Heat over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until almost about to simmer. (The surface will start to look foamy. This is called scalding. Do not let it boil.) Remove from the heat and let the vanilla bean steep in the milk for 15 minutes.

Place the egg yolks, sugar, salt, and cornstarch in a medium mixing bowl and beat with a whisk until well blended, about 1 minute.

Remove the vanilla bean from milk. Use a knife to scrape out as many seeds as possible and add them to the milk. Swirl the pod in the milk to remove any remaining seeds. Discard the pod or save for another use. Add the toasted coconut and place the pot over medium-high heat. Bring to a simmer, then remove from the heat.

Ladle out about 1/2 cup of the hot milk and whisk it into the egg mixture. (This is called “tempering,” which allows the eggs to warm up so they don’t get shocked into curdling when you pour them into the hot milk.) Slowly pour the egg mixture into the pot of milk, whisking steadily to keep the eggs from curdling.

Place the pot over medium-high heat and bring the mixture to a boil, stirring constantly but not furiously. (You must stir constantly so you don’t get scrambled eggs, but don’t stir too vigorously either). Reduce the heat to low and continue to cook while whisking constantly (make sure to get the sides and edges) until the mixture is very thick, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the butter and stir until melted, then stir in the coconut rum.

Let the filling cool to lukewarm (about 15 minutes), then pour into the cooled pie shell. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface (to keep a skin from forming). Refrigerate the pie for at least 4 hours before serving.

To make the topping:

Just before serving, make the whipped cream topping: Place the cream and vanilla in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or, if using a whisk or hand-held mixer, put it in a deep mixing bowl). Beat on medium speed until frothy. Sprinkle in the confectioners’ sugar and beat on medium-high until stiff peaks form (when the whisk is lifted the cream will form a point that doesn’t droop).

Mound the whipped cream in the center of the chilled pie. Use the back of a large spoon or an offset metal spatula to spread it out to the edge and give it a few decorative swirls. If desired, fill a pastry bag fitted with a star tip with half of the whipped cream and pipe a border around the outside of the pie (pipe a ring of the letter “s,” starting a new “s” inside the bottom part of the previous “s” so they interlock). Sprinkle with toasted coconut and serve.

Pumpkin Cheesecake with Gingersnap & Pecan Crust

I discovered just how astonishingly good pumpkin is when not obscured by cinnamon and ginger when I tasted a pumpkin mousse prepared by Jehanne Burch at the Castle Hill Inn & Resort in Newport, Rhode Island. Her mousse contained only pumpkin, sugar, heavy cream, and gelatin. It was a revelation. If you use an electric mixer, start by beating the cream cheese with the whisk attachment until it’s very smooth, and then add the cooked pumpkin mixture and the remaining ingredients.

For the crust:

• 4-1/4 oz. gingersnap cookies (about 17 two-inch cookies), broken into pieces
• 2 oz. (1/2 cup) pecans, toasted
• 1 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 2 pinches table salt
• 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon (optional)
• 4 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted

For the filling:

• 1 cup unsweetened pumpkin purée (I like Libby's)
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 2 cups heavy cream, chilled
• 1 lb. cream cheese, softened to room temperature
• 2 large eggs
• 2 large egg yolks

For the garnish:

• About 24 pecan halves, toasted

Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease the bottom and sides of a 9x21/2-inch or higher springform pan.

Make the crust:

In a food processor, process the cookies with the pecans, sugar, salt, and cinnamon (if using) until the cookies become fine crumbs, about 20 seconds. Add the melted butter and pulse about 10 times, just until incorporated. (Alternatively, put the cookies in a freezer bag and use a rolling pin to crush them into fine crumbs. Grind the nuts finely but not to a powder. In a medium bowl, combine all the crust ingredients except the butter and toss with a fork to blend. Stir in the melted butter and toss to incorporate.)

Using your fingers or the back of a spoon, press the mixture into the base of the prepared pan and partway up the sides. Use a flat-bottomed, straightsided glass to smooth the crumbs over the bottom and farther up the sides (but not all the way to the top). Be sure to press the bottom thoroughly so that the crumbs are evenly distributed. Lay plastic wrap over the crumbs to keep them from sticking to your fingers, and use your fingers to continue pressing the crust to a thin, even layer. Wrap the outside of the pan with a double layer of heavy-duty aluminum foil to prevent leaking. Cover the crust with plastic wrap and refrigerate until needed.

Make the filling:

In a small, heavy saucepan, combine the pumpkin purée and sugar. Over medium heat, bring the mixture to a sputtering simmer, stirring constantly, about 5 minutes. Turn the heat to low and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture has darkened and thickened to the consistency of applesauce, about 5 minutes.

Scrape the mixture into a large food processor and process for 1 minute. with the feed tube open (so steam can escape), scraping down the sides. With the motor running, add the chilled cream. Add the softened cream cheese and process for 30 seconds or until smoothly incorporated, scraping down the sides two or three times. Add the eggs and yolks and process for about 5 seconds, just until incorporated.

Bake the cheesecake:

Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Set the pan in a larger pan (a 12x2-inch cake pan or a roasting pan) and surround it with 1 inch of very hot water. Check that the oven is at 350°F and bake the cheesecake for 45 minutes. Turn off the oven without opening the door and let the cheesecake cool for 1 hour. Transfer the cake to a rack (the center will still be jiggly) and cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. Cover the pan with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight. .

Umold, garnish, and slice:

Be sure the cheesecake is thoroughly chilled. Have ready a serving plate and another flat plate that's at least as wide as the springform and covered in plastic wrap. Wipe a hot, damp cloth around the outside of the ring (or use a hair dryer). Run a metal spatula or a thin knife inside the ring. Release and gently loosen the ring and then lift it off. Set the plate with the plastic wrap on top of the cheesecake and carefully invert the pan. Heat the base of the springform with a hot, damp cloth or hair dryer and lift it off. Set the serving plate lightly on the bottom of the cheesecake (which is now facing up) and reinvert the cake. Lift off the plastic-wrapped plate.

Arrange the pecan halves around the perimeter of the cake. To cut neat slices, use a sharp, thin-bladed knife dipped in hot water (shake off excess drops) between each slice.

Lemon-Buttermilk Pudding Cakes

These cakes have a thin layer of pudding on the bottom and a cheesecake-like layer on the top.

• 1-1/2 oz. (3 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly, plus about 2 tsp. more, softened, for the ramekins
• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 3 large egg yolks, at room temperature
• 1 cup buttermilk, at room temperature
• 1/4 cup whole milk, at room temperature
• 1-1/8 oz. (1/4 cup) all-purpose flour
• 1/4 tsp. table salt
• 1/3 cup fresh lemon juice, at room temperature
• 4 large egg whites, at room temperature
• 1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
• 1/2 cup lightly sweetened whipped cream, for serving (optional)
• 1 cup fresh raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, or sliced strawberries, for serving (optional)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Butter eight 6-oz. ramekins and arrange them in a roasting pan or in two 8x8-inch Pyrex baking dishes. Fill a kettle with about 6 cups of water. Bring to a boil and set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk the melted butter with 1/2 cup of the sugar and the egg yolks until smooth and light, about 1 minute. Whisk in the buttermilk, milk, flour, and salt just until smoothly blended. Whisk in the lemon juice.

In a large bowl, beat the egg whites with an electric mixer (a hand-held or stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment) on medium speed until frothy, 30 to 60 seconds. Increase the speed to high and beat just until the whites hold soft peaks—the peak should flop over immediately when the beater is lifted—30 to 60 seconds. Reduce the mixer speed to medium and very slowly sprinkle in the remaining 1/4 cup sugar. If necessary, stop the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Beat on high speed until the whites hold medium-firm peaks—the peak should hold its shape pretty well when the beater is lifted, but the tip will curl over on itself—30 to 60 seconds.

Spoon one-third of the whites onto the egg yolk mixture, sprinkle with the lemon zest, and gently whisk to blend. Using the whisk, gently fold and stir the remaining whites into the batter. The batter will be light and foamy but thin.

Spoon the mixture evenly among the ramekins—you can fill them to the top. Put the roasting pan with the ramekins in the oven and pour enough hot water from the kettle into the pan to reach about halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until the tops of the cakes are light golden and puffed, 25 to 30 minutes. They should spring back slightly when touched. Take the cakes out of the water bath and let cool on a rack to room temperature. Then refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours before serving. Top the cakes with a small dollop of whipped cream and garnish with a few fresh berries, if using.

Gingerbread Biscotti

Biscotti are very forgiving, and you can bake these to your taste: chewy, crunchy, or somewhere in between.

• 10 oz. (2-1/4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1-1/4 cups packed dark brown sugar
• 2 tsp. ground ginger
• 1-1/4 tsp. baking powder
• 1 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp. table salt
• 1/4 tsp. ground nutmeg
• 1/4 tsp. baking soda
• 4 oz. (1 cup) pecans, coarsely chopped
• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) lightly packed dried apricots, coarsely chopped
• 1/4 cup molasses
• 2 large eggs
• 2 tsp. finely grated orange zest (from about 1 medium navel orange)

Tip:

For the best results, measure your flour by weight instead of volume. (1 cup of all-purpose flour equals 4-1/2 oz.) If you don’t have a scale, be sure to use the proper technique when filling your measuring cups.

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Line a large cookie sheet with parchment.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, brown sugar, ginger, baking powder, cinnamon, salt, nutmeg, and baking soda on medium-low speed until well blended. On low speed, briefly mix in the pecans and apricots. In a measuring cup, lightly whisk the molasses, eggs, and orange zest. With the mixer on low, slowly pour in the egg mixture. Continue mixing until the dough is well blended and comes together in large, moist clumps, 1 to 2 minutes.

Dump the dough onto an unfloured work surface. Divide into two equal piles (about 1 lb. each). Shape each pile into a log that's 10 inches long and about 1-1/2 inches in diameter, lightly flouring your hands as needed (the dough is a bit sticky).

Position the logs on the lined cookie sheet about 4 inches apart. Bake until the tops are cracked and spring back slightly when gently pressed, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer the sheet to a rack and let cool until the logs are cool enough to handle, about 10 minutes.

Carefully peel the biscotti logs from the parchment and transfer to a cutting board. Using a serrated knife, saw each log into diagonal slices 3/4 inch wide. Return the slices to the cookie sheet (no need for fresh parchment) and arrange them cut side down. It's all right if they touch because they won't spread.

Bake until the biscotti are dried to your taste, about 10 minutes (for slightly moist and chewy) to 20 minutes (for super-dry and crunchy). Transfer the cookie sheet to a rack and let the biscotti cool completely. The biscotti will still give slightly when pressed, but will harden as they cool. When cool, store in airtight containers.

Blackberry Grunt

This old-fashioned dessert is essentially a stovetop cobbler; it's called a grunt supposedly because of the sound the berries make as they simmer. You can substitute blueberries for the blackberries if you like.

For the berries:

• 6 cups blackberries
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 1/3 cup water
• 1 Tbs. grated lemon zest

For the dumpling dough:

• 4-1/2 oz. (1 cup) all-purpose flour
• 2 Tbs. sugar
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. baking soda
• 1/8 tsp. salt
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted
• 1/2 cup buttermilk; more as needed
• 1 Tbs. sugar mixed with 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• Vanilla ice cream for garnish (optional)

In a deep 10-inch skillet that has a tight-fitting lid, combine the berries, sugar, water, and zest.

In a bowl, stir together the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Stir in the melted butter. Add enough of the buttermilk to form a soft, sticky dough that’s slightly wetter than a biscuit dough.

Meanwhile, bring the berry mixture to a boil over high heat, stirring once or twice. Reduce to a simmer and, using a soupspoon, spoon the dough over the fruit, creating about 8 small dumplings. Sprinkle the dumplings with the cinnamon-sugar mixture. Cover the skillet tightly with the lid or foil and steam over medium-low heat, without uncovering, until the dumplings are set and the surface is dry when touched with a fingertip, about 15 minutes (If you’re not sure if the dumplings are done, you can gently break one open with a fork.) Try not to remove the lid (which would let steam escape) before 15 minutes, and if the dumplings need further cooking, quickly return the lid. Serve immediately, spooning the warm grunt (it will be fairly liquid) into small bowls. Garnish with vanilla ice cream, if you like.

Classic Meatloaf

If you don't see ground veal or ground pork at your grocer, ask the butcher to grind it for you. Choose ground beef that isn't too lean: 85 percent is a good bet. Many groceries carry "meatloaf mix" packages of ground beef, veal, and pork.

• 1 Tbs. vegetable or olive oil; more for the baking sheet
• 1/2 cup finely chopped onion
• 1-1/2 tsp. minced garlic
• 3/4 lb. ground beef, 85-percent lean
• 3/4 lb. ground veal
• 3/4 lb. ground pork
• 1/2 cup tomato ketchup
• 1 Tbs. Dijon-style mustard
• 1-1/2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• 3/4 cup fresh plain breadcrumbs
• 1 egg
• 1-1/2 tsp. salt
• 3/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• About 8 slices raw bacon

Heat the oven to 350°F. In a small skillet, heat the oil; add the onions and cook over medium heat until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté another 1 to 2 minutes to soften. Set aside to cool.

In a large mixing bowl, combine all the remaining ingredients except the bacon, and add the cooled onion-garlic mixture. Mix with a rubber spatula or your hands just until the ingredients are combined. Don't overwork the meat.

Oil a rimmed baking sheet or jelly roll pan, turn the meat mixture out onto the pan, and shape it into a large loaf (I like mine to look like a slightly oval loaf of bread). Or divide the mixture into four equal portions (about 6 oz. each) and shape each portion into an individual meatloaf. Wrap strips of bacon around the shaped loaf, tucking the ends under the loaf.

Bake the meatloaf until an instant-read thermometer registers 160°F, 50 to 60 minutes for a large loaf, or 25 to 35 minutes for smaller loaves. Before slicing, let the meatloaf rest for 10 to 15 minutes to allow some carryover cooking and to let the juices redistribute. To serve, slice and spoon some of the pan juices over the slices, if you like.

Summer Fruit Cobbler

This essence-of-summer cobbler is perfect for making on vacation: It couldn't be easier to make, it can be made with whatever fruit looks good, and it's even an easy recipe to commit to memory. Plus, you can bake it in whatever dish or pan you have, from a 3-quart casserole to a large skillet.

• 4 oz. (8 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
• 4-1/2 oz. (1 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 1-1/2 tsp. baking powder
• Pinch kosher salt
• 1 cup whole milk
• 3 cups mixed whole or sliced fresh summer fruit, such as blackberries, blueberries, raspberries, peaches, plums, and nectarines
• Vanilla ice cream for serving

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F. Put the butter in 3-quart baking dish or similar, or in a 10- to 12-inch ovenproof skillet and put the dish or pan in the oven to melt the butter while the oven is heating.

Meanwhile, stir or whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl until well combined. Add the milk and stir or whisk until combined; a few small lumps are OK.

When the butter is fully melted, take the baking dish out of the oven and pour the batter over the melted butter; do not mix. Scatter the fruit over the batter, favoring the middle of the dish more than the edges; do not mix it in. Bake until the top is a rich golden-brown, 30 to 45 minutes. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream.

Persimmon Cake with Crème Fraîche and Maple Pecans

Crisp, crunchy varieties of persimmons, like Fuyus, are great eaten out of hand, sliced into salads, and diced into salsas, but this cake, inspired by farmer James Birch of Flora Bella Farm, is the perfect way to show off the softer Hachiya types, which need to be completely soft before they are eaten. I love that these persimmons actually taste of fall and winter— as if they have been grown in fields of cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove. It’s very strange but so magical to have those flavors reinforced by the fruit itself. This is a great one for the Thanksgiving or Christmas buffet.

For the maple pecans

• 1-1/2 cups pecans
• 2 Tbs. maple sugar
• 1 Tbs. maple syrup
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt

Tip:

Maple sugar can be found at Trader Joe’s, Whole Foods, specialty stores, and of course, online. Although you can substitute turbinado or even brown sugar, the maple sugar makes it extra maple-y and special.

For the cake

• 1-3/4 cups (approximately 3-1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus a little for the pan
• About 3 ripe Hachiya persimmons (to yield 1 cup puréed flesh)
• 2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. baking soda
• 1-1/2 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. ground cardamom
• 1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
• 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• Pinch ground cloves
• 1/4 tsp. kosher salt
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1-1/2 cups sugar
• 2 extra-large eggs
• 1/4 cup crème fraîche
• 1-1/2 cups maple pecans

Make the maple pecans

Heat oven to 350° F.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Combine all the ingredients in a large bowl. Spread evenly across the prepared baking sheet. Bake, stirring every few minutes, for about 10 minutes, or until toasted. Set aside until ready to finish the cake.

Make the cake

Heat the oven to 350° F.

Prepare a 10-inch round cake pan by lightly buttering the inside surfaces, lining the bottom with parchment paper, and buttering the parchment. Cook 4 Tbs. butter (1/2 stick) in a small saucepan over high heat for a few minutes, swirling the pan, until the butter browns and smells nutty. Set aside to cool.

Scoop the ripe flesh from the persimmons, and purée in a blender until smooth. Measure out 1 cup purée.

Whisk together flour, baking soda, baking powder, the spices, and salt in a small bowl, and set aside.

In another bowl, combine the purée, 1/4 cup cream, vanilla, and cooled browned butter.

Paddle the remaining 1-1/2 cups butter and the sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer at medium-high for 3 minutes, until light and fluffy. Add eggs one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each egg. Decrease the paddle speed to low. Alternately add the flour mixture and persimmon-purée mixture to the bowl, in three additions, beginning and ending with the flour mixture.

Evenly spread the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for about 1 hour, until cake feels springy to the touch. Whip the remaining 3/4 cup cream and the crème fraîche to soft peaks. Cut six slices from the cake (the cake will yield ten to twelve servings), and place on six dessert plates. Dollop with whipped crème fraîche, and scatter the candied pecans over the cake and around the plate.

Crisp Chocolate-Chip Cookies

Adding more white sugar than brown sugar increases the crispness. Be sure the butter and eggs are at room temperature before mixing to help the cookies spread thinner as they bake. Greased baking sheets encourage the cookies to spread even more.

• 12 oz. (1-1/2 cups) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 3/4 cup packed light brown-sugar 
• 2 large eggs, at room temperature
• 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 13-1/2 oz. (3 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. table salt
• 1 tsp. baking soda
• 12 oz. semisweet chocolate chips

Arrange oven racks in the upper and middle positions of the oven. Heat the oven to 375°F and grease two baking sheets.

Using a mixer fitted with a paddle, beat together the butter, granulated sugar, and brown sugar on high until light and fluffy, about 1 minute. Scrape the bowl and beater. Add the eggs and vanilla and beat on low until blended. Beat on high until light and fluffy, about 1 minute. Scrape the bowl and beater.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, and baking soda. Add this to the butter mixture and beat on medium low until just blended. Stir in the chocolate chips with a wooden spoon.

Drop rounded measuring tsp. of dough 2 inches apart onto the greased baking sheets. Bake until deep golden brown around the edges and golden in the center, 8 to 10 minutes, rotating the baking sheets halfway through for even results. Remove the sheets from the oven, let sit for 3 to 5 minutes, and then transfer the cookies with a spatula to a wire rack to cool completely. Repeat until all the dough is baked.

Grilled Rib-Eye Steak with Roquefort Butter

One rib-eye is more than enough for one hungry person. Set the table with sharp steak knives.

• 2 Tbs. freshly ground black pepper
• 1 Tbs. fresh thyme leaves
• 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 boneless rib-eye steaks, about 20 oz. each (1-1/2 inches thick)
• 1 Tbs. coarse salt
• Roquefort Butter (optional)

In a small bowl or dish, combine the black pepper, thyme, and olive oil and rub equal amounts of the mixture on both sides of each steak. Set aside and prepare the grill.

When the fire is hot (you'll be able to hold your hand just above the grate for 1 second), sprinkle both sides of the steaks with the salt. Grill the steaks on one side for 5 to 6 minutes. If there are flare-ups, move them to another spot on the grill. Turn the steaks and finish cooking on the second side for 3 to 4 minutes. They should be rare to medium rare at this point. For more on doneness, see our video "Grill Steaks Rare, Medium or Well and How to Tell."

Remove the steaks from the grill and transfer to a clean serving platter to rest for 3 or 4 minutes. so the meat relaxes and the juices redistribute.

If you like, serve with a generous tablespoon of Roquefort Butter on each steak, letting the butter soften slightly on the cooked steak for a minute or two. At this point, the steak will have advanced half a degree to a perfect medium rare.

Herb-and-Salt-Crusted Standing Rib Roast with Morel Sauce

A salt, herb, and flour crust blankets the standing rib roast while it cooks, sealing in all the juices and infusing the meat with flavor. The result is a tender, perfectly medium-rare roast beef that’s seasoned all the way through. With a creamy sauce of dried morels and Marsala, it’s luxury on a plate.

• 2 cups kosher or sea salt
• 1 large egg white
• 3 Tbs. freshly ground black pepper
• 3 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme (stems included)
• 2 Tbs. chopped juniper berries
• 2 Tbs. chopped garlic
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 to 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour; more for rolling
• One 3-bone standing beef rib roast (about 7 lb.), cut from the loin end, chine bone and fat cap removed
• 1 Tbs. vegetable oil
• Morel Sauce

Tip:

It’s a good idea to order your beef rib roast ahead of time. Ask the butcher to remove the chine bone and fat cap for you

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine 1 cup water with the salt, egg white, pepper, thyme, juniper, garlic, and parsley. Mix on medium speed until blended. On medium-low speed, mix in 2 cups of the flour, adding more as needed, until the dough is firm and feels slightly dry and stiff, like Play-Doh. Continue to mix for 2 minutes. The dough should be smooth and firm but not sticky; add more flour if necessary. Flatten the dough into a rectangle, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 6 hours.

An hour before you’re ready to roast, put the beef on the counter and let sit at room temperature.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the oil and put the roast meat side down in the skillet; sear until deeply browned, about 5 minutes. Remove the roast from the pan and set it bone side down on a rack in a roasting pan.

On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a 1/4-inch-thick rectangle. Drape the dough over the meat, tucking it in on all sides. Roast until an instant-read thermometer in the middle of the roast registers 125°F for rare or 135°F for medium rare, 1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours. Let rest for 20 minutes, then remove and discard the crust. (After removing the crust, the roast can rest for up to 30 minutes more.) Carve and serve with the Morel Sauce.

Creole Beef Grillades and Cheese Grits

A grillade is a traditional beef or veal round cut into a square and then pounded thin to be tender. Beef round is the most suitable cut for this dish. Gardner Ranch calves are raised on a diet of grass and clover with the bare minimum of supplements, producing lean yet flavorful meat.

For the Beef Grillades

• 1 tsp. paprika
• 1 tsp. cayenne
• 1 tsp. garlic powder
• 1 tsp. onion powder
• 1 tsp. dried oregano
• 1 tsp. thyme
• One 3-pound beef shoulder, sliced into 1/2-inch-thick cutlets
• Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/4 cup rendered bacon fat, or 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 large yellow onion, finely diced
• 1 stalk celery, finely diced
• 1 small red or green bell pepper, finely diced
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 cups canned chopped tomatoes with juices
• 2 cups beef stock
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme
• 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
• Hot sauce
• Cheese Grits (recipe follows)
• 2 scallions (green parts only), finely chopped, for garnish

For the Cheese Grits

• Coarse salt
• 1 cup stone-ground white corn grits
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 Tbs. mascarpone or cream cheese
• 1/4 cup grated Edam or Swiss cheese

Make the Beef Grillades

To make the Creole spices, mix the paprika, cayenne, garlic powder, onion powder, dried oregano, and thyme.


Season the beef with salt and pepper. Season the flour with the Creole spices, and reserve 1/4 cup. Put the remaining 1-3/4 cups flour in a large, shallow bowl, and then dredge the beef in the flour, shaking off the excess.


Heat the rendered bacon fat or butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Cook the cutlets until golden brown, about 2 minutes on each side, making sure not to overcrowd the pan (you might need to cook in batches). Set aside the cooked cutlets on a paper towel–lined plate.


Add the onions to the same pan, lower the heat to medium, and cook until the onions are a deep mahog­any color, about 10 minutes. Add the celery, bell peppers, and garlic, and cook for another 5 minutes. Add a tablespoon of the reserved seasoned flour to the pan and mix well.


Add the tomatoes and beef stock to the pan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the thyme, red pepper flakes, bay leaf, and Worcestershire sauce; return the beef cutlets to the pan. Cover and simmer for 45 minutes, or until the meat is fork-tender. Discard the bay leaf. Add hot sauce to taste and more salt and pepper as desired.


To serve, put a heaping spoonful of Cheese Grits on a serving plate, top with 2 or 3 pieces of beef, and spoon the sauce over the meat. Garnish with scallions.

Make the Cheese Grits

In a large saucepan over high heat, bring 5 cups of salted water to a boil while slowly whisking in the grits. Reduce the heat to medium low; cover and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally and making sure the grits aren’t sticking to the bottom of the pan; adjust the heat to low if the grits are cooking too quickly.


Remove the cooked grits from the heat and stir in the butter, mascarpone or cream cheese, and grated cheese. Season with salt to taste and serve warm.

Caramelized Onion Cheeseburgers

Burgers just got better with the addition of tender sweet onions, melted cheese, and tangy lemon-Dijon mayonnaise.

• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed
• 1 large sweet onion, thinly sliced (about 2 cups)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/3 cup mayonnaise
• 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
• 1-1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
• 1 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary
• 1 small clove garlic, minced
• 1-1/2 lb. 85%-lean ground beef
• 4 slices Comté or Gruyère cheese
• 4 good-quality hamburger buns or rolls, split
• 12 fresh arugula leaves

Prepare a medium-high gas or charcoal grill fire. Alternatively, position an oven rack 5 to 6 inches from the broiler and heat the broiler to high. Line the bottom of a broiler pan with foil and lightly oil the perforated part of the pan.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, 1/4 tsp. salt, and 1/8 tsp. pepper; reduce the heat to medium low and cook, stirring occasionally, until deeply golden brown and tender, 15 to 18 minutes.

Combine the mayonnaise, Dijon, lemon juice, rosemary, and garlic in a small bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside.

In a medium bowl, gently combine the beef with 1/4 tsp. salt and 1/8 tsp. pepper. Form the beef into 4 patties (3-1/2 inches in diameter) and make a deep depression in the center of each patty so the burgers keep their shape during cooking. Lightly sprinkle the patties with 3/4 tsp. salt and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Grill or broil them on the prepared pan for about 4 minutes per side for medium, or until desired doneness. Top each burger with 1 slice of the cheese and grill or broil until melted, 30 to 60 seconds.

Toast the buns on the grill or under the broiler until golden, 30 to 60 seconds. Serve the burgers on the toasted buns with the caramelized onions, mayonnaise, and arugula.

Herbed Aïoli Burgers

These burgers get a double whammy of herb flavor: Finely chopped herbs are mixed into the beef, then the burgers are topped with an herbed mayonnaise that’s so good it can be served on its own as a dip for french fries or chips.

For the aïoli

• 1 small clove garlic
• Kosher salt
• 1 large egg yolk
• 2 Tbs. red wine vinegar
• 1-1/2 tsp. Dijon mustard
• 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh tarragon
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh chives

For the burgers

• 1-1/4 lb. ground beef (80% lean), preferably grass-fed
• 2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh basil
• 1 tsp. finely chopped fresh marjoram
• 1 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 hamburger rolls, preferably brioche
• Lettuce and tomato for serving (optional)

Make the aïoli

Peel, mince, and mash the garlic to a paste with a pinch of salt. In a food processor, pulse the egg yolk, vinegar, mustard, garlic paste, and 1/2 tsp. salt until combined. With the machine running, drizzle in the olive oil until the mixture is emulsified. Add the herbs and pulse once or twice to combine. Transfer to a small bowl and season to taste with salt.

Make the burgers

Prepare a medium (350°F) gas or charcoal grill fire.

In a medium bowl, combine the ground beef, basil, marjoram, rosemary, 1 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Form into four 1/2-inch-thick patties. Press the center of each patty with 3 fingers to make an indentation.

Grill the burgers, covered, flipping once, until cooked to your liking, about 6 minutes for medium rare (125°F).

Transfer the burgers to a plate and keep warm.

Toast the buns cut side down on the grill. Serve the burgers on the buns, topped with the aïoli, lettuce, and tomato, if using.

Sear-Roasted Salmon Fillets with Lemon-Ginger Butter

Warming the lemon juice makes it easier to mix it into the softened butter. Wrapped well, the compound butter keeps for weeks in the freezer.

• 6 Tbs. butter, well softened at room temperature
• 2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice, warmed slightly
• 2 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
• 2 Tbs. snipped fresh chives
• Olive oil for the pan
• 4 salmon fillets (5 oz. each), skinned if you like, patted dry
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a bowl, blend the butter, lemon juice, ginger, and chives well. Set aside at room temperature.

Heat the oven to 500°F. Set a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat and add just enough oil to make a light film. Sprinkle the salmon lightly with salt and pepper. When the oil is very hot, add the salmon, skin side up, and cook until nicely browned, about 1 minute. Flip the fish over and put the skillet in the oven. Roast for 2 minutes for medium rare; 4 minutes for medium well. Check for doneness with the tip of a knife. Remove the pan from the oven, transfer the fish to serving plates, and immediately top the salmon with a dab of the lemon-ginger butter.