Showing posts with label Mardi Gras. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mardi Gras. Show all posts

Thursday, November 14, 2013

Creole Beef Grillades and Cheese Grits

A grillade is a traditional beef or veal round cut into a square and then pounded thin to be tender. Beef round is the most suitable cut for this dish. Gardner Ranch calves are raised on a diet of grass and clover with the bare minimum of supplements, producing lean yet flavorful meat.
For the Beef Grillades
  • 1 tsp. paprika
  • 1 tsp. cayenne
  • 1 tsp. garlic powder
  • 1 tsp. onion powder
  • 1 tsp. dried oregano
  • 1 tsp. thyme
  • One 3-pound beef shoulder, sliced into 1/2-inch-thick cutlets
  • Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 cup rendered bacon fat, or 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  • 1 large yellow onion, finely diced
  • 1 stalk celery, finely diced
  • 1 small red or green bell pepper, finely diced
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 cups canned chopped tomatoes with juices
  • 2 cups beef stock
  • 2 sprigs fresh thyme
  • 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
  • Hot sauce
  • Cheese Grits (recipe follows)
  • 2 scallions (green parts only), finely chopped, for garnish
For the Cheese Grits
  • Coarse salt
  • 1 cup stone-ground white corn grits
  • 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
  • 2 Tbs. mascarpone or cream cheese
  • 1/4 cup grated Edam or Swiss cheese

Make the Beef Grillades

To make the Creole spices, mix the paprika, cayenne, garlic powder, onion powder, dried oregano, and thyme.


Season the beef with salt and pepper. Season the flour with the Creole spices, and reserve 1/4 cup. Put the remaining 1-3/4 cups flour in a large, shallow bowl, and then dredge the beef in the flour, shaking off the excess.


Heat the rendered bacon fat or butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Cook the cutlets until golden brown, about 2 minutes on each side, making sure not to overcrowd the pan (you might need to cook in batches). Set aside the cooked cutlets on a paper towel–lined plate.


Add the onions to the same pan, lower the heat to medium, and cook until the onions are a deep mahog­any color, about 10 minutes. Add the celery, bell peppers, and garlic, and cook for another 5 minutes. Add a tablespoon of the reserved seasoned flour to the pan and mix well.


Add the tomatoes and beef stock to the pan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the thyme, red pepper flakes, bay leaf, and Worcestershire sauce; return the beef cutlets to the pan. Cover and simmer for 45 minutes, or until the meat is fork-tender. Discard the bay leaf. Add hot sauce to taste and more salt and pepper as desired.


To serve, put a heaping spoonful of Cheese Grits on a serving plate, top with 2 or 3 pieces of beef, and spoon the sauce over the meat. Garnish with scallions.

Make the Cheese Grits

In a large saucepan over high heat, bring 5 cups of salted water to a boil while slowly whisking in the grits. Reduce the heat to medium low; cover and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally and making sure the grits aren’t sticking to the bottom of the pan; adjust the heat to low if the grits are cooking too quickly.


Remove the cooked grits from the heat and stir in the butter, mascarpone or cream cheese, and grated cheese. Season with salt to taste and serve warm.

Creole-Style Shrimp Jambalaya

A creole-style (red) jambalaya always includes tomatoes. I like using tomato paste instead of canned or fresh tomatoes because it adds deeper flavor and gives the finished dish a rich hue. The shrimp are cooked for a long time, which may seem odd, but this method yields a flavorful jambalaya with tender—never mushy—shrimp. If you can find head-on shrimp, this is the place to use them; just remove and discard the heads at the point in the recipe where you peel and devein the shrimp.
  • 6 scallions, thinly sliced (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  • 3 medium stalks celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  • 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  • 2 lb. large (31 to 35 per lb.) shrimp, preferably wild-caught
  • 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter
  • 1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped (about 1 cup)
  • 1/4 lb. ham, cut into 1/4-inch dice
  • 3 Tbs. tomato paste
  • 1 dried bay leaf
  • 1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  • 1/4 tsp. cayenne
  • 1/8 tsp. chili powder
  • 1/8 tsp. ground allspice
  • Pinch of ground cloves
  • Kosher salt
  • 2 cups long-grain white rice
  • 1 tsp. sweet paprika
  • Hot sauce, preferably Crystal (optional)

In a 4-quart heavy-duty saucepan, combine the scallion trimmings, celery trimmings, and onion trimmings with 5-1/2 cups of water; bring to a boil over high heat. Add the shrimp, let the water return to a boil, and cook until pink and cooked through, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit for 3 minutes. Strain through a sieve set over a large glass measuring cup, reserving the stock. You will need 4-1/2 cups of stock, so add water if necessary. When cool enough to handle, peel and devein the shrimp. Discard the shells and trimmings.

Melt the butter in a 5- to 6-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven (or other heavy-duty pot) over medium-high heat. Add the celery, onion, and bell pepper and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 7 minutes. Add the ham and the reserved shrimp and cook, stirring often, until any excess moisture evaporates and the ham and vegetables begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until a shade darker, about 3 minutes. Stir in the bay leaf, thyme, cayenne, chili powder, allspice, cloves, and 1-1/2 tsp. salt. Stir in the rice. Add the reserved stock and bring to a boil. Cover, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, undisturbed, just until the rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Check the rice for doneness in several places.

Remove the pot from the heat. Sprinkle the paprika over the jambalaya and, using a fork, gently fluff the scallions and paprika into the jambalaya. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes to let the flavors meld. Serve with hot sauce, if you like.

Calas Fried Rice Fritters

Crisp around the edges with a plump, toothsome belly, these fritters beg to be served with obscene quantities of earthy, sorghum-like cane syrup, though traditionalists may opt for confectioners’ sugar instead.
  • 1/2 cup long-grain white rice (Mahatma brand if you can find it)
  • Peanut oil for frying
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1 tsp. baking powder
  • 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
  • 3 large eggs
  • 2 tsp. sugar
  • 1 tsp. vanilla extract
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • Cane syrup for serving

Tip:
I usually make calas when I have leftover rice in the fridge—whether it’s from Monday’s red beans or Chinese takeout. If using leftover rice, add 1-1/2 cups of cooked, cold rice to the batter.

Bring 1 cup of water and a pinch of salt to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the rice, stir once, reduce the heat to low, and cover the pan, cooking 18 to 20 minutes or until the grains of rice are plump and fluff apart with a fork. Turn the rice out onto a parchment paper–lined baking sheet and cool for 15 minutes, then transfer to a plastic container (don’t pack it in). Cover with plastic wrap and poke a few holes in the top. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to 2 days.


Pour enough peanut oil into a large pot to fill it to a 2-1/2- to 3-inch depth and bring to a temperature between 350°F and 360°F over medium heat. Line a plate with paper towels and set aside.


While the oil heats up, place the flour, baking powder, and cinnamon in a medium bowl.


Using a stand mixer or a hand mixer, beat the eggs, sugar, and vanilla on high speed until foamy and tripled in volume, 1-1/2 to 2 minutes. Sift in half of the dry ingredients, add the salt, and mix on low speed until only a few dry streaks remain. Sift in the remaining dry ingredients and mix on low speed for a few turns, then add the rice and mix until the fritter batter just comes together into a loose, roughly textured ball.


Once your oil is hot, dip a teaspoon in the hot oil, then into the batter and scoop out a heaping teaspoonful. Hold the spoon close to the oil and let the batter roll off and into the oil. Repeat with the remaining batter; using a slotted spoon, turn and baste the fritters occasionally, allowing them to become golden brown on all sides. (Fry the fritters in two batches if your pot becomes overcrowded.) If the temperature of the oil dips below 350°F, increase the heat to medium-high. Once the fritters are golden brown, transfer them to the prepared plate to cool slightly. Serve on a small plate drizzled with lots of cane syrup.

Wednesday, November 13, 2013

Cajun-Style Chicken and Sausage Jambalaya

This is a traditional Cajun-style (brown) jambalaya, chock full of smoked meats with nary a tomato in sight. Although Louisiana-style ingredients are increasingly available these days, it may be difficult to find the sausages and tasso locally. Don’t forgo this recipe, though, because there are widely available substitutes (see the ingredient list below). Just don’t use breakfast or Italian sausage—their sage and fennel flavors have no place in jambalaya. The Creole seasoning is all-purpose, so both Cajun and Creole cooks use it.
  • 1 2-1/2- to 3-lb. chicken, giblets removed
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped (about 2 cups), trimmings reserved
  • 3 medium stalks celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  • 1 Tbs. canola oil
  • 1/2 lb. fresh chaurice (or Mexican chorizo or other spicy fresh pork or beef sausage), casings removed
  • 1/2 lb. andouille (or kielbasa or other smoked sausage), casings removed, halved lengthwise and sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick
  • 1/4 lb. tasso (or ham), cut into 1/4-inch dice
  • 1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped (about 1 cup)
  • 1 tsp. creole seasoning, preferably Tony Chachere’s Original Creole Seasoning
  • 3 cups long-grain white rice
  • 3 medium cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  • 1 dried bay leaf
  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions
  • Hot sauce, preferably Crystal (optional)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Pat the chicken dry and season it all over with salt and pepper. Put the chicken breast side down on a roasting rack in a medium (9x13-inch or similar) roasting pan or flameproof baking dish. Tuck the wing tips behind the neck.

Roast the chicken for 30 minutes. Flip and continue roasting until an instant-read thermometer inserted in a thigh registers 165°F to 170°F, about 45 minutes more.

Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and let rest until cool enough to handle, about 30 minutes.

Pull off all of the meat, discarding the skin and reserving the bones; shred the meat into bite-size pieces, cover, and refrigerate.

Put the chicken bones in a 5- to 6-quart pot with the onion and celery trimmings. Add 8 cups of water and bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Lower the heat and simmer until flavorful and reduced to about 6cups of liquid, 35 to 50 minutes. Strain the broth and measure it; you will need 6cups, so add water if necessary.

Heat the oil in a 7- to 8-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven (or other heavy-duty pot) over medium heat. Add the chaurice and use a wooden spatula to break it into small pieces. Raise the heat to medium high and add the andouille, tasso, onion, celery, bell pepper, and Creole seasoning. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are browned, 15 to 20 minutes.

Add the rice and cook, stirring often, until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the shredded chicken, reserved broth, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, and 3/4 tsp. salt; bring to a boil. Cover, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, undisturbed, just until the rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Check the rice for doneness in several places.

Remove the pot from the heat. Using a fork, gently fluff the scallions into the jambalaya. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes to let the flavors meld. Serve with hot sauce, if you like.

Red Velvet Cake

Red velvet cake is a dessert that everyone oohs and aahs over—it’s tall, dark, and handsome, with deep crimson cake layers and a thick coating of cream cheese frosting above, around, and between. This red velvet cake recipe excerpted from David Guas and Raquel Pelzel's DamGoodSweet, is about as southern as a cake can be, but their version veers a bit from tradition.Browse our special collections for more impressive layer cakes and recipes perfect for Valentine's Day or your Mardi Gras celebration.
For the cake
  • 2 sticks (1 cup) plus 2 Tbs. unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • 3-1/4 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup Dutch-processed cocoa powder
  • 1-1/2 tsp. baking powder
  • 1-1/2 tsp. baking soda
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1 (1-lb.) box light brown sugar (about 2-1/4 cups)
  • 3 Tbs. red food coloring
  • 2-1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
  • 3 large eggs
  • 1-3/4 cups buttermilk
For the frosting
  • 1-1/4 lb. cream cheese, at room temperature
  • 2-1/2 sticks (1-1/4 cups) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • 2 tsp. vanilla extract
  • 1 (2-lb.) bag confectioners’ sugar (about 7-1/4 cups)

To make the cake

Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease two 9-inch cake pans with 1 Tbs. of butter each. Add 2 Tbs. of the flour to each pan and shake the pans to coat the bottom and sides. Tap out the excess flour and set the pans aside.


Sift the remaining 3 cups of flour with the cocoa, baking powder, baking soda, and salt, and set aside.


In the bowl of a stand mixer (or in a large bowl if using a hand mixer) cream the remaining butter with the brown sugar, food coloring, and vanilla on low to combine. Increase the mixer speed to medium-high and beat until aerated and pale, about 2 minutes. Reduce the speed to medium and add the eggs, one at a time, beating thoroughly between each addition and using a rubber spatula to scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl as necessary. Reduce the speed to low and add one-third of the dry ingredients followed by half of the buttermilk. Repeat, finishing with the final third of the dry mix. Scrape down the bottom and sides of the bowl and divide the batter between the two prepared cake pans, spreading it out as evenly as possible.


Bake until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean and the center of the cake resists slight pressure, about 40 minutes. Cool on a wire rack for 15 minutes, and then run a paring knife around the edges of each pan to release the cake from the sides; invert the cakes onto the cooling rack. Cool for 1 hour, and then wrap each cake in plastic wrap for at least a few hours.

To make the frosting

Beat the cream cheese, butter, and vanilla together in the bowl of a stand mixer (or in a large bowl if using a hand mixer) on low speed to combine. Increase the speed to medium-high and beat until aerated and light, about 2 minutes. Stop the mixer and add a few cups of the confectioners’ sugar, incorporating it into the cream cheese mixture on low speed until combined. Repeat with the remaining sugar, adding it to the mixer in two additions. Once all of the sugar is added, increase the speed to medium-high and beat until fluffy, about 1 minute.

To assemble the cake

Unwrap the cake layers. Slice off the rounded top 1/8 inch of each cake and place the trimmed-away portion in the bowl of a food processor. Slice each cake in half horizontally (you’ll end up with 4 layers), working over a baking sheet to catch any crumb. Add the crumbs to the food processor and pulse until fine.


Place one cake layer on a cake round or large plate (make sure that the diameter of the plate is at least 1 inch larger than the cake). Use an offset spatula to evenly spread a heaping 3/4 cup of frosting on the first cake layer. Repeat with the remaining three cake layers, ending with a bottom half of a cake on top, browned-side up (so you don’t get cake crumbs in the frosting). Spread the remaining frosting over the top and sides of the cake (the sides don’t have to look perfect—you’re going to cover them with cake crumbs anyway). Gently press a handful of the reserved crumbs into the side of the cake until all of the sides are evenly coated. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours before serving.

St. Cecilia Society Punch

This punch is named for a famously private and exclusive social organization founded in Charleston, South Carolina, in the 18th century. The recipe can easily be doubled.Find this and other cocktails in our Drinks and Entertaining Guide.
  • 2 medium lemons, thinly sliced
  • 3/4 cup brandy
  • 3/4 cup granulated sugar
  • 2 tea bags green tea
  • 3/4 cup dark rum, such as Gosling’s
  • 1/2 small pineapple, peeled, cored, sliced 1/2 inch thick, and cut into small wedges
  • 1 750-ml bottle dry sparkling wine, such as Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut, chilled
  • 6 cups sparkling water, chilled

Put the lemon slices in a large bowl and pour the brandy over them. Let macerate at room temperature overnight.

In a small saucepan, combine the sugar with 3/4 cup water and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the tea bags, and steep for 2 to 3 minutes. Discard the tea bags and let the syrup cool.

At least 3 hours and up to 6 hours before serving, combine the lemons, brandy, syrup, rum, and pineapple in a large pitcher or bowl. Chill in the refrigerator.

Just before serving, pour the punch into a large chilled punch bowl with a block of ice. Add the sparkling wine and sparkling water, and gently stir.

St. Cecilia Society Punch

This punch is named for a famously private and exclusive social organization founded in Charleston, South Carolina, in the 18th century. The recipe can easily be doubled.Find this and other cocktails in our Drinks and Entertaining Guide.
  • 2 medium lemons, thinly sliced
  • 3/4 cup brandy
  • 3/4 cup granulated sugar
  • 2 tea bags green tea
  • 3/4 cup dark rum, such as Gosling’s
  • 1/2 small pineapple, peeled, cored, sliced 1/2 inch thick, and cut into small wedges
  • 1 750-ml bottle dry sparkling wine, such as Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut, chilled
  • 6 cups sparkling water, chilled

Put the lemon slices in a large bowl and pour the brandy over them. Let macerate at room temperature overnight.

In a small saucepan, combine the sugar with 3/4 cup water and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the tea bags, and steep for 2 to 3 minutes. Discard the tea bags and let the syrup cool.

At least 3 hours and up to 6 hours before serving, combine the lemons, brandy, syrup, rum, and pineapple in a large pitcher or bowl. Chill in the refrigerator.

Just before serving, pour the punch into a large chilled punch bowl with a block of ice. Add the sparkling wine and sparkling water, and gently stir.

Tuesday, November 12, 2013

Gumbo Ya Ya

Bone-in chicken gives the stew more flavor; the meat becomes so tender that it falls from the bone. If, however, you don’t feel like fishing out the bones later, you can use the same amount of boneless thighs; they will likely take less time to cook, so check for tenderness sooner.
  • 3 Tbs. plus 3/4 cup vegetable oil
  • 2-1/2 lb. skinless chicken thighs, preferably bone-in
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1 medium bunch celery, thinly sliced
  • 4 large onions, diced
  • 4 green or red bell peppers, diced
  • 2 Tbs. minced garlic
  • 1/2 to 1 tsp. cayenne or 5 fresh cayenne peppers, diced
  • 3/4 tsp. dried oregano
  • 3/4 tsp. dried basil
  • 3/4 tsp. dried thyme
  • 4 bay leaves
  • 8 cups homemade or lower-salt chicken broth or water
  • 1-1/2 lb. andouille sausage or other spicy smoked sausage, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
  • 1 Tbs. filé powder
  • 6 cups cooked white rice
  • Chopped scallions for garnish
  • Tabasco or other Louisiana-style hot sauce

In a heavy-based soup pot, heat 3 Tbs. of the oil over high heat until almost smoking. While the oil is heating, season the chicken generously with salt and pepper, dust it with 1/4 cup of the flour, and shake off the excess. Sear the chicken in the hot oil until golden brown, turning once to brown both sides, 4 minutes on each side. Remove the chicken and set aside.


Let the oil reheat for a minute and then reduce the heat to medium high and add the celery, onions, and peppers and cook until soft, 10 to 12 minutes, stirring to prevent scorching. Remove the vegetables and any liquid from the pan and set aside. Add 3/4 cup oil to the pot and let it heat up for a minute over medium heat. Slowly add the remaining flour to the pan and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is the color of chocolate, 10 to 20 minutes. Stir carefully, being sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the pot to prevent scorching. Pay attention not to burn the roux; if you do burn it, you’ll have to start over.


When the roux has reached a good mahogany brown, return the cooked vegetables to the pot, along with the garlic, cayenne, oregano, basil, thyme, and bay leaves. Stir to scrape the bottom of the pot and cook until well combined, 3 to 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.


Slowly add the broth while stirring until smoothly blended. Add the chicken and the sausage. Bring to a simmer and skim off excess fat. Simmer uncovered, skimming any foam or fat that rises to the surface, until the chicken meat is so tender that it falls easily from the bones, about 2 hours (begin checking earlier). Remove the bones from the pot and discard.


Return the soup to a boil and stir in the filé powder, stirring vigorously to avoid clumping, until the filé powder is dissolved. Taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as necessary. Serve the gumbo in bowls over the cooked white rice with chopped scallions and Tabasco to taste.

Stove-Top Jambalaya

What a fun combination of flavors and colors! This whole concoction boasts an amazing array of ingredients—garlic, peppers (sweet and hot), tomatoes, herbs, spices, and Cajun-seasoned chicken, shrimp, and sausage.
  • 1 cup quick-cooking brown or white rice
  • 2 tsp. olive oil
  • 1/2 cup chopped onion
  • 1 large green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1/4 cup diced pickled jalapeños
  • 1/2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken breasts or tenders, cut into 1-inch chunks
  • 1 tsp. Cajun or Creole seasoning
  • 1 tsp. dried oregano
  • 1/2 lb. andouille sausage, chorizo sausage, or kielbasa, cut into 1-inch-thick rounds
  • 1/2 lb. medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
  • One 28-oz. can diced tomatoes
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
  • Table salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cook the rice according to the package directions.


Heat the oil in a large saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion, bell pepper, garlic, and jalapeños and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the chicken and cook until browned on all sides, about 5 minutes. Add the Cajun seasoning and oregano and stir to coat the chicken and vegetables. Add the sausage and shrimp and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and bay leaves, bring to a simmer, and let simmer until the chicken and shrimp are cooked through (the shrimp will be bright pink), about 3 minutes.

Remove the bay leaves and stir in the cooked rice and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

White Bean Soup with Andouille & Collard Greens

This soup is a complete meal! Just add a warm French baguette and you’re golden. Feel free to experiment with different types of sausage, including the wonderful variety of flavored chicken sausages sold with the other poultry products at the supermarket.
  • 1 Tbs. olive oil
  • 1 cup chopped yellow onion
  • 12 oz. andouille or chorizo sausage, diced
  • 4 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
  • Two 15-oz. cans cannellini or other white beans, drained
  • 1 bunch fresh collard greens, washed well, tough stems removed, and chopped, or two 10-oz. packages frozen chopped collard greens, thawed
  • 1 Tbs. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
  • Table salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Heat the oil in large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the sausage and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a simmer.


Using a fork, slightly mash most of the white beans and add to the pan. Simmer for 5 minutes, then add the collard greens and simmer until wilted, about 3 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, season with salt and pepper, and serve.

Shrimp Rémoulade on Tender Greens

New Orleans rémoulade is a spiced-up version of the classic French mayonnaise-style sauce. The cool, fresh, briny flavors of boiled shrimp dressed in remoulade make this dish a good starter to a rich, hearty Creole dinner menu.
For the Rémoulade sauce
  • 1 Tbs. white-wine vinegar
  • 1 Tbs. prepared yellow mustard
  • 2 Tbs. Creole or country-style Dijon mustard
  • 2 tsp. tomato paste
  • 1 small clove garlic
  • Dash of Tabasco sauce
  • 1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
  • 1 large egg
  • 1/4 tsp. paprika
  • 1/2 cup vegetable oil
  • 3 Tbs. chopped scallions (white and pale green parts from 2 scallions)
  • 3 Tbs. chopped celery
  • 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • Kosher salt
For the shrimp
  • 1/3 cup kosher salt
  • 1 Tbs. cayenne
  • 2 Tbs. whole black peppercorns
  • 2 lemons, cut in quarters
  • 1 large clove garlic
  • 4 bay leaves
  • 1 medium onion, diced
  • 1-1/2 lb. large (21-25 per lb.) shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails left on
  • Tender leafy lettuce (such as bibb or Boston), cut into strips

Make the sauce:

In a food processor, combine the vinegar, mustards, tomato paste, garlic, Tabasco, lemon juice, egg, and paprika. Pulse to mix. With the processor running, slowly add the oil in a steady stream. Add the scallions, celery, parsley, and salt to taste; pulse briefly to combine. Overprocessing may cause separation. Chill.

Prepare the shrimp:

In a 6- to 8-qt. pan, combine 1 gallon water with 1/4 cup of the salt, the cayenne, peppercorns, lemon, garlic, bay leaves, and onion. Bring to a boil and then simmer for 15 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook until they’re pink and just barely opaque through the center, about 3 minutes. Pull the shrimp from the boil and put them in a large bowl. Cover with ice and then add 2 cups of the boil liquid to the iced shrimp. Soak for 5 minutes. Add the remaining salt. When the shrimp are well chilled, drain.


Before serving, dip each shrimp in the rémoulade sauce to coat and arrange on a bed of the lettuce.

White Bean Soup with Andouille & Collard Greens

This soup is a complete meal! Just add a warm French baguette and you’re golden. Feel free to experiment with different types of sausage, including the wonderful variety of flavored chicken sausages sold with the other poultry products at the supermarket.
  • 1 Tbs. olive oil
  • 1 cup chopped yellow onion
  • 12 oz. andouille or chorizo sausage, diced
  • 4 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
  • Two 15-oz. cans cannellini or other white beans, drained
  • 1 bunch fresh collard greens, washed well, tough stems removed, and chopped, or two 10-oz. packages frozen chopped collard greens, thawed
  • 1 Tbs. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
  • Table salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Heat the oil in large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the sausage and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a simmer.


Using a fork, slightly mash most of the white beans and add to the pan. Simmer for 5 minutes, then add the collard greens and simmer until wilted, about 3 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, season with salt and pepper, and serve.

St. Cecilia Society Punch

This punch is named for a famously private and exclusive social organization founded in Charleston, South Carolina, in the 18th century. The recipe can easily be doubled.Find this and other cocktails in our Drinks and Entertaining Guide.
  • 2 medium lemons, thinly sliced
  • 3/4 cup brandy
  • 3/4 cup granulated sugar
  • 2 tea bags green tea
  • 3/4 cup dark rum, such as Gosling’s
  • 1/2 small pineapple, peeled, cored, sliced 1/2 inch thick, and cut into small wedges
  • 1 750-ml bottle dry sparkling wine, such as Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut, chilled
  • 6 cups sparkling water, chilled

Put the lemon slices in a large bowl and pour the brandy over them. Let macerate at room temperature overnight.

In a small saucepan, combine the sugar with 3/4 cup water and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the tea bags, and steep for 2 to 3 minutes. Discard the tea bags and let the syrup cool.

At least 3 hours and up to 6 hours before serving, combine the lemons, brandy, syrup, rum, and pineapple in a large pitcher or bowl. Chill in the refrigerator.

Just before serving, pour the punch into a large chilled punch bowl with a block of ice. Add the sparkling wine and sparkling water, and gently stir.

Monday, November 11, 2013

Cajun-Style Chicken and Sausage Jambalaya

This is a traditional Cajun-style (brown) jambalaya, chock full of smoked meats with nary a tomato in sight. Although Louisiana-style ingredients are increasingly available these days, it may be difficult to find the sausages and tasso locally. Don’t forgo this recipe, though, because there are widely available substitutes (see the ingredient list below). Just don’t use breakfast or Italian sausage—their sage and fennel flavors have no place in jambalaya. The Creole seasoning is all-purpose, so both Cajun and Creole cooks use it.
  • 1 2-1/2- to 3-lb. chicken, giblets removed
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped (about 2 cups), trimmings reserved
  • 3 medium stalks celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  • 1 Tbs. canola oil
  • 1/2 lb. fresh chaurice (or Mexican chorizo or other spicy fresh pork or beef sausage), casings removed
  • 1/2 lb. andouille (or kielbasa or other smoked sausage), casings removed, halved lengthwise and sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick
  • 1/4 lb. tasso (or ham), cut into 1/4-inch dice
  • 1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped (about 1 cup)
  • 1 tsp. creole seasoning, preferably Tony Chachere’s Original Creole Seasoning
  • 3 cups long-grain white rice
  • 3 medium cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  • 1 dried bay leaf
  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions
  • Hot sauce, preferably Crystal (optional)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Pat the chicken dry and season it all over with salt and pepper. Put the chicken breast side down on a roasting rack in a medium (9x13-inch or similar) roasting pan or flameproof baking dish. Tuck the wing tips behind the neck.

Roast the chicken for 30 minutes. Flip and continue roasting until an instant-read thermometer inserted in a thigh registers 165°F to 170°F, about 45 minutes more.

Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and let rest until cool enough to handle, about 30 minutes.

Pull off all of the meat, discarding the skin and reserving the bones; shred the meat into bite-size pieces, cover, and refrigerate.

Put the chicken bones in a 5- to 6-quart pot with the onion and celery trimmings. Add 8 cups of water and bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Lower the heat and simmer until flavorful and reduced to about 6cups of liquid, 35 to 50 minutes. Strain the broth and measure it; you will need 6cups, so add water if necessary.

Heat the oil in a 7- to 8-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven (or other heavy-duty pot) over medium heat. Add the chaurice and use a wooden spatula to break it into small pieces. Raise the heat to medium high and add the andouille, tasso, onion, celery, bell pepper, and Creole seasoning. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are browned, 15 to 20 minutes.

Add the rice and cook, stirring often, until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the shredded chicken, reserved broth, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, and 3/4 tsp. salt; bring to a boil. Cover, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, undisturbed, just until the rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Check the rice for doneness in several places.

Remove the pot from the heat. Using a fork, gently fluff the scallions into the jambalaya. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes to let the flavors meld. Serve with hot sauce, if you like.

Shrimp Rémoulade on Tender Greens

New Orleans rémoulade is a spiced-up version of the classic French mayonnaise-style sauce. The cool, fresh, briny flavors of boiled shrimp dressed in remoulade make this dish a good starter to a rich, hearty Creole dinner menu.
For the Rémoulade sauce
  • 1 Tbs. white-wine vinegar
  • 1 Tbs. prepared yellow mustard
  • 2 Tbs. Creole or country-style Dijon mustard
  • 2 tsp. tomato paste
  • 1 small clove garlic
  • Dash of Tabasco sauce
  • 1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
  • 1 large egg
  • 1/4 tsp. paprika
  • 1/2 cup vegetable oil
  • 3 Tbs. chopped scallions (white and pale green parts from 2 scallions)
  • 3 Tbs. chopped celery
  • 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • Kosher salt
For the shrimp
  • 1/3 cup kosher salt
  • 1 Tbs. cayenne
  • 2 Tbs. whole black peppercorns
  • 2 lemons, cut in quarters
  • 1 large clove garlic
  • 4 bay leaves
  • 1 medium onion, diced
  • 1-1/2 lb. large (21-25 per lb.) shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails left on
  • Tender leafy lettuce (such as bibb or Boston), cut into strips

Make the sauce:

In a food processor, combine the vinegar, mustards, tomato paste, garlic, Tabasco, lemon juice, egg, and paprika. Pulse to mix. With the processor running, slowly add the oil in a steady stream. Add the scallions, celery, parsley, and salt to taste; pulse briefly to combine. Overprocessing may cause separation. Chill.

Prepare the shrimp:

In a 6- to 8-qt. pan, combine 1 gallon water with 1/4 cup of the salt, the cayenne, peppercorns, lemon, garlic, bay leaves, and onion. Bring to a boil and then simmer for 15 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook until they’re pink and just barely opaque through the center, about 3 minutes. Pull the shrimp from the boil and put them in a large bowl. Cover with ice and then add 2 cups of the boil liquid to the iced shrimp. Soak for 5 minutes. Add the remaining salt. When the shrimp are well chilled, drain.


Before serving, dip each shrimp in the rémoulade sauce to coat and arrange on a bed of the lettuce.

The Sazerac

Crafted in New Orleans just after the repeal of Prohibition to take the place of still-outlawed absinthe, Herbsaint became an essential ingredient in America's first cocktail, the Sazerac.Visit our Drinks & Entertaining page for more classic cocktail recipes.
  • 1/2 tsp. Herbsaint (or Pernod)
  • 1/4 cup bourbon (such as Maker's Mark)
  • 1 Tbs. simple syrup
  • 2 to 3 dashes Peychaud's Bitters
  • 1 lemon twist

Swirl the Herbsaint inside a rocks glass, making sure it coats the sides. Fill the glass with crushed ice and set aside. In a cocktail shaker half-filled with ice, sitr together the bourbon, simple syrup, and bitters, and stir well. Strain into the glass, drop in the lemon twist, and bang it back!

Lemon-Herbsaint Poppers

These are great served at a cocktail party or a garden party, passed around on a platter with small demitasse spoons. They're bright yellow and taste of citrus with the unmistakeable anisey twang of Herbsaint. Herbsaint is a New Orleans creation that debuted right after the repeal of Prohibition, crafted to take the place of outlawed absinthe and imported Pastis.Visit our Drinks & Entertaing page for more refreshing cocktail recipes.  
  • 2  (1/4-oz.) packages plus 1 tsp. powdered unflavored gelatin (2 Tbs. total)
  • 1/2 cup granulated sugar
  • 1 cup club soda
  • 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice (from 4–6 lemons)
  • 3 Tbs. Herbsaint

Pour 1/2 cup of cold water into a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin on top, and set aside.

Bring the sugar and an additional 1/2 cup of water to a boil in a small saucepan and immediately turn off the heat. Stir the club soda, lemon juice, and Herbsaint together in a medium bowl. Stir the gelatin mixture into the warm sugar water, whisk until dissolved, and then pour into the bowl with the club soda, stirring to combine.

Pour the mixture into an 8-inch-square baking dish or small shot glasses, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until set, about 3 hours or overnight.

Set a glass with hot water on your work surface. Dip a paring knife into the hot water and use it to cut the pan of jelled Herbsaint into 1-inch squares. Place a burner on low heat and hold the baking dish over the burner for a split second to release the cubes from the pan. Invert the pan onto a cutting board or platter; the cubes should pop right out (if serving the Herbsaint Poppers in shot glasses, serve as is with a small spoon.)

White Bean Soup with Andouille & Collard Greens

This soup is a complete meal! Just add a warm French baguette and you’re golden. Feel free to experiment with different types of sausage, including the wonderful variety of flavored chicken sausages sold with the other poultry products at the supermarket.
  • 1 Tbs. olive oil
  • 1 cup chopped yellow onion
  • 12 oz. andouille or chorizo sausage, diced
  • 4 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
  • Two 15-oz. cans cannellini or other white beans, drained
  • 1 bunch fresh collard greens, washed well, tough stems removed, and chopped, or two 10-oz. packages frozen chopped collard greens, thawed
  • 1 Tbs. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
  • Table salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Heat the oil in large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the sausage and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a simmer.


Using a fork, slightly mash most of the white beans and add to the pan. Simmer for 5 minutes, then add the collard greens and simmer until wilted, about 3 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, season with salt and pepper, and serve.

Sour Mash & Lime Tea

This is my variation on a Southern Sour.Find more iced-teas for grown-ups on our Drinks & Entertaining page.
  • 4 cups water
  • 6 regular-size tea bags (about 1/2 oz. total)
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 1 can (6 oz.) frozen limeade concentrate, thawed
  • 3 cups cold water
  • 12 oz. sour-mash whiskey (such as Jack Daniels), or any good bourbon (about 1-1/2 cups)
  • Lime wedges for garnish (optional)

In a medium saucepan, bring the 4 cups water to a boil. Add the tea bags, remove from the heat, cover, and steep for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, put the sugar and limeade concentrate in a 2-quart heatproof container (like a large Pyrex liquid measure). When the tea is ready, remove the tea bags (don’t squeeze them) and add the tea to the limeade mixture, stirring to combine. Stir in the 3 cups cold water, let cool to room temperature, and then refrigerate until ready to serve.

To serve, pour 1-1/2 ounces of the whiskey into each 12-ounce glass. Add 1 cup of the limeade-tea mixture to each glass. Stir to combine. Add ice and garnish with the lime wedges, if you like.

St. Cecilia Society Punch

This punch is named for a famously private and exclusive social organization founded in Charleston, South Carolina, in the 18th century. The recipe can easily be doubled.Find this and other cocktails in our Drinks and Entertaining Guide.
  • 2 medium lemons, thinly sliced
  • 3/4 cup brandy
  • 3/4 cup granulated sugar
  • 2 tea bags green tea
  • 3/4 cup dark rum, such as Gosling’s
  • 1/2 small pineapple, peeled, cored, sliced 1/2 inch thick, and cut into small wedges
  • 1 750-ml bottle dry sparkling wine, such as Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut, chilled
  • 6 cups sparkling water, chilled

Put the lemon slices in a large bowl and pour the brandy over them. Let macerate at room temperature overnight.

In a small saucepan, combine the sugar with 3/4 cup water and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the tea bags, and steep for 2 to 3 minutes. Discard the tea bags and let the syrup cool.

At least 3 hours and up to 6 hours before serving, combine the lemons, brandy, syrup, rum, and pineapple in a large pitcher or bowl. Chill in the refrigerator.

Just before serving, pour the punch into a large chilled punch bowl with a block of ice. Add the sparkling wine and sparkling water, and gently stir.