Steak Tartare

The great steak tartare can only be made with one cut of beef and that is the tenderloin. If anyone tells you anything different, they are WRONG! Also, the meat should never be ground; it should be chopped by hand until it is finely minced. Let everyone mix their own tartare at the table, because we all like it different, don't we?

• 1-1/2 lb.beef tenderloin (tail end)
• Large bunch of fresh parsley, chopped
• 4-1/2 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
• 1/3 cup ketchup
• Salt and pepper
• Heaping 1/2 cup capers, finely chopped
• 1 cup minced shallots
• 4 egg yolks
• Tabasco sauce for serving

Cut the meat into matchstick-thin strips, then bundle them up, turn them around 180 degrees, and cut into little cubes. Start chopping the meat and continue until it eventually forms into a ball on the board.

Mix the meat with some of the parsley, the Worcestershire sauce, a little of the ketchup, and some pepper. Spoon it onto serving plates and shape into a mound. The remaining ingredients should be arranged around the meat, and an egg yolk placed in the center of each serving. This allows everyone to add and mix and season to their taste.

Smoked Salmon & Cucumber Tea Sandwiches

• 1/2 cup crème fraîche
• 3 Tbs. chopped fresh dill
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• One-half medium English cucumber
• 8 large slices pumpernickel bread, each cut into four 2-inch triangles
• 1/4 lb. thinly sliced cold-smoked salmon, cut into 16 pieces

In a small bowl, mix the crème fraîche with the dill and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Peel the cucumber. Then, using the peeler, shave 16 wide strips from several sides of the cucumber (discard the seed core). In a medium bowl, toss the cucumber strips with 1/4 tsp. salt and let sit until softened, about 10 minutes. Pat dry with paper towels.

Spread the creme fraiche generously on one side of each bread triangle (you may not use it all). Top half of the triangles with a folded cucumber strip, a curl of the salmon, and a grind of black pepper. Set the remaining bread on top and serve.

Lemongrass-Ginger Sliders

This traditional recipe, from the Shan state of Burma, is for meat balls made with ground beef or pork flavored with minced lemongrass, ginger, and garlic. But it's easier in a North American kitchen to flatten the balls and cook them as sliders. They cook slowly in a little oil, which gives them a slight crust and succulent interior. Traditionally the meat is chopped by hand, which has a different texture from ground meat, and it's worth trying. You can also chill the meat and use a food processor to grind it.

• 1 lb. boneless beef chuck or boneless pork shoulder, or 1 lb. ground chuck or ground pork
• 1/4 tsp. turmeric
• 2 Tbs. minced lemongrass
• 2 Tbs. minced garlic
• 1/2 cup minced shallots
• 2 Tbs. minced ginger
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1/4 cup chilled cooked jasmine or other rice
• 1/2 tsp. cayenne
• 1/4 cup finely chopped Roma tomatoes
• About 1/4 cup peanut oil

If using meat that has not been ground: To hand-chop the meat, thinly slice it, then place the slices on a large cutting board. Holding a cleaver in each hand, chop the meat with alternating hands, chopping across the piled meat one way, then another, and repeating until finely chopped. Sprinkle on the turmeric and set aside in a large bowl. Alternatively, to use a food processor, cut the meat into 5 or 6 pieces and place in the freezer for 20 minutes. Transfer the meat to the processor, add the turmeric, and pulse to finely chop. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside.

If using ground meat: Place in a bowl, sprinkle with the turmeric, and set aside.

To make and cook the sliders, combine the lemongrass, garlic, shallots, ginger, and salt in a large mortar or the food processor and pound or pulse to a coarse paste. Add the rice, chile powder, and tomatoes and pound or pulse again.

Add the flavor paste to the meat and knead it thoroughly into the meat. Shape the mixture into balls about 1 inch in diameter, then flatten each one gently into a thick patty. Set aside on a lightly oiled plate.

Place a large skillet over high heat. Add the oil, then lower the heat to medium-high and add the sliders, being careful not to splash yourself with oil; arrange the first ones around the edges of the skillet and work your way in to the center. Cook for 3 minutes or so, then use a wide metal spatula to turn the sliders over. As the meat starts to release water, raise the heat a little to evaporate it. Remove the sliders from the pan when they are firm to the touch or have reached the degree of doneness you like.

Spice-Cured Salmon with Beets & Horseradish Cream

Cured salmon (gravad lax) is quintessentially Scandinavian. I have a recipe for every season, but this is our Christmas favorite thanks to the festive warm spices and orange zest. I love the combination of tangy raw beets and spicy horseradish cream with the silky, citrusy salmon. It makes an elegant first course and a deliciously cool counterpoint to hot White Wine & Elderflower Gløgg. To save time, you can substitute cream-style prepared horseradish for the fresh horseradish cream, though the flavor won’t be the same.

For the salmon

• 2 Tbs. black peppercorns
• 2 Tbs. coriander seeds
• 20 whole cloves
• 20 green cardamom pods
• 9 oz. kosher salt (about 1-3/4 cups Diamond Crystal or 1 cup Morton’s)
• 1-1/2 cups granulated sugar
• 2 Tbs. finely grated orange zest (from 2 oranges)
• 1 4-lb. skin-on salmon fillet (preferably wild), belly flap trimmed and pin bones removed

For the beets and horseradish cream

• 3 medium red beets, peeled, halved, and very thinly sliced
• 1/4 cup cider vinegar
• 3/4 cup crème fraîche
• 3/4 cup finely grated fresh horseradish
• 1-1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For serving

• Rye crispbreads, such as Finn Crisp or Wasa
• Fresh dill sprigs
• Lemon wedges

Cure the salmon

With a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, finely grind the peppercorns, coriander, cloves, and cardamom pods. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in the salt, sugar, and orange zest.

Arrange several long pieces of plastic wrap on a large rimmed baking sheet. Put the salmon on the plastic skin side down, cover the flesh evenly with the salt mixture, and wrap tightly. Refrigerate for 4 days.

Make the beets and horseradish cream

In a medium bowl, toss the beets with 2 Tbs. of the vinegar; let stand for at least 30 minutes.

In a small bowl, whisk the crème fraîche, horseradish, sugar, and the remaining 2 Tbs. vinegar; season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate.

Serve

Unwrap the salmon and rinse under cold running water to remove the curing mixture. Pat dry with paper towels. Transfer to a cutting board and very thinly slice the salmon (Using a long, thin, sharp knife, slice the salmon as thinly as you can. Starting at the wider end if the filet, hold the knife at a 45-degree angle and try for slices so thin that you can see the knife through the salmon). Slice only as much as you need. Garnish with the dill sprigs and serve with the beets, horseradish cream, crispbreads, and lemon wedges.

Shrimp Skewers

• 36 shrimp (21 to 25 per lb.; about 1-1/2 lb. total), peeled (tail segment left on) and deveined
• Twelve 8-inch bamboo skewers, soaked in water
• 1 recipe Pimentón Vinaigrette 

Thread three shrimp onto each skewer. Lay the skewers in a large Pyrex baking dish (or other large nonreactive container) and pour the pimentón vinaigrette over the skewers, turning them to coat completely. Marinate for at least 30 minutes in the refrigerator.

Heat a gas grill to medium high or prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire. Grill the skewers (covered on a gas grill, uncovered on a charcoal grill), flipping once, until the shrimp are just cooked through, about 4 minutes total.

Scallop and Shrimp Shiu Mai Dumplings

These tiny purse-shaped dumplings, which are a staple of Chinese dim sum, make the perfect party food, since they can be made in a big batch, frozen, and steamed just before guests arrive. Not a fan of seafood? Try the pork-filled variety.

• 1/2 lb. dry-packed, fresh sea scallops, tough muscle removed from each scallop
• 1/2 lb. peeled and deveined shrimp
• 1 cup thinly sliced napa cabbage, plus extra leaves for lining the steamer
• 1/2 cup chopped scallions (both white and green parts)
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• 1-1/2 Tbs. soy sauce 
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
• 1 Tbs. rice vinegar 
• 1 Tbs. cornstarch; more for dusting 
• 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh ginger
• 1-1/2 tsp. Asian sesame oil
• 1 tsp. granulated sugar 
• 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 
• 1 large egg white
• 55 to 60 shiu mai wrappers or wonton wrappers
• Soy Dipping Sauce, for serving

Assemble the shiu mai:

Pulse the shrimp and scallops in a food processor until almost smooth, about 12
pulses. Transfer to a large bowl, and stir in the sliced cabbage, scallions, cilantro, soy sauce, garlic, rice vinegar, 1 Tbs. cornstarch, ginger, sesame oil, sugar, pepper, and egg white.

Sprinkle a rimmed baking sheet liberally with cornstarch. Set a small bowl of water on the work surface. If the wrappers are larger than 3 inches across in any direction, trim them with a cookie cutter to 3-inch rounds. Otherwise, leave as squares or rectangles.

Working with one wrapper at a time, and keeping the remaining wrappers
covered with plastic wrap so they don’t dry out, place a heaping
teaspoon of the pork filling in the center of the wrapper. Using a
pastry brush or your fingers, dab a bit of water around the edge of the
wrapper to moisten. Crimp the wrapper up and around the filling,
squeezing slightly with your fingers to bring the wrapper together like abeggar’s pouch.

Place on the cornstarch-coated baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling until you run out of one or the other. You can steam the shiu mai immediately or freeze and steam them later (see Make-Ahead Tips, below).

Cook the shiu mai:

Set up a steamer with 2 inches of water in the bottom. Line the basket with cabbage leaves to keep the shiu mai from sticking. Set over medium-high heat and cover. When steam begins to escape from the steamer, remove from the heat and carefully take off the lid. Arrange the shiu mai in the steamer so that they don’t touch, as they will stick together (you’ll have to cook them in batches). Cover the steamer and return to medium-high heat. Steam until the pork is cooked through (cut into one to check), 5 to 7 minutes. Serve with the dipping sauce.

Shrimp & Scallop Cakes

The trick to making great fish cakes is to buy fresh ingredients, handle them gently, season with restraint, and pan-fry until you’ve got a crisp, brown crust and a succulent center.

• 2 whole star anise
• 4 Tbs. peanut or canola oil; more as needed for frying
• 2 cups stemmed and sliced (1/4-inch-thick) shiitake mushrooms (from about two 3-1/2-oz. packages)
• 1/2 lb. shrimp, any size, peeled and deveined
• 3/4 lb. fresh dry-packed sea scallops
• 2 Tbs. mirin (sweetened rice wine)
• 2 Tbs. roughly chopped fresh cilantro, plus 8 cilantro leaves
• 2 Tbs. thinly sliced scallions (both white and green parts; about 2 scallions)
• Gingered Soy Sauce

    

Tip:

To make mini cakes, simply portion the mixture into 24 small mounds, shape into cakes, and press a small cilantro leaf on each one. Cook as directed in the recipe.

Grind the star anise in a clean electric coffee grinder.

Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shiitakes and sauté, stirring as needed, until cooked through, golden, and slightly crisp around the edges, 5 to 7 min. Transfer to a cutting board, let cool, and then coarsely chop.

Coarsely chop the shrimp and transfer to a large bowl. Put the scallops in a food processor and purée until smooth. Add the scallops to the bowl of shrimp. Add 1 tsp. of the star anise, along with the shiitakes, mirin, cilantro, scallions, sesame oil, and 1/2 tsp. kosher salt. Combine well using a rubber spatula—don’t worry about overmixing. Cover the bowl and chill for 30 min. or more. Discard any remaining ground star anise or save for another use.

Turn the mixture out onto a baking sheet and portion it into eight equal mounds. With wet hands, shape each mound into a flattened cake about 2-1/2 inches wide and 1/2 inch thick. Press a cilantro leaf, nice side up, onto the top of each cake.

Heat the oven to 200°F. Heat 1 Tbs. of the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Using a rubber spatula, transfer four of the cakes to the pan with the cilantro-leaf side down. Cook until lightly browned on both sides and cooked through, turning once or twice with a spatula, 5 to 6 min. total cooking time. Transfer to a plate, cover, and keep warm in the oven. Wipe the skillet clean and then cook the remaining cakes as above, using the remaining 1 Tbs. oil.

Serve hot, with ramekins of the Gingered Soy Sauce for dipping.

Thai Seafood Salad (Yum Talay)

This dish boasts a playful mix of flavors: the natural sweetness of fresh seafood, the breezy notes of cilantro and mint, and the sharp accent of lime juice against a little sizzle of chile heat.In Thai cuisine, a yum is a hearty dish consisting mostly of meat, fish, or seafood, tossed just before serving with a simple mixture of fish sauce, fresh or dried chiles, lime juice, and herbs and often served atop a bed of salad greens. A yum is a stand-alone dish, perfect for a light main course or even an appetizer. The word yum refers to the action of combining an array of hot and tangy ingredients, and talay is the Thai word for ocean; thus, the mixed seafood version is called yum talay.You can prepare the components in advance but be sure to yum the dressing and seafood right before serving—this is the key to keeping the vibrant flavors distinct.

For the seafood:

• 24 small mussels
• 1 Tbs. table salt
• 3/4 lb. medium (51 to 60 per lb.) fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined
• 1/2 lb. cleaned squid, bodies sliced crosswise into 1/4-inch rings and tentacles cut in half if large
• 1/2 lb. sea scallops or bay scallops
• 1/4 lb. fresh or pasteurized jumbo lump crabmeat

Tip:

You can find frozen cleaned squid in 1-lb. packages in the freezer section. Some markets have thawed cleaned squid on ice at the seafood counter.

For the dressing:

• 6 Tbs. fresh lime juice (from 2 limes)
• 4-1/2 Tbs. fish sauce
• 1-1/2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 2 tsp. finely chopped unseeded fresh hot green chiles (like serrano or jalapeño)
• 2 tsp. finely chopped garlic (2 medium cloves)

For the salad:

• 2 cups bite-size pieces of Boston lettuce, rinsed and spun dry (1 large head)
• 3 Tbs. thinly sliced shallot (1 large)
• 1/3 cup thinly sliced scallions (4 to 5, white and green parts)
• 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
• 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh mint
• 1/2 cup sliced English cucumber (halve cucumber lengthwise and slice into 1/4-inch-thick half-moons)
• 1/2 cup halved cherry or grape tomatoes

Tip:

Chop the cilantro and mint at the last minute, just before mixing with the salad, so their flavor won't have time to fade.

Cook the seafood:

Scrub the mussels well under running water and pull off any "beards." Discard any mussels that don't close tightly when tapped on the counter. Put closed mussels in a medium saucepan. Add about 1/2 cup water, just enough to cover the bottom of the pan by about 1/4 inch. Cover and set over high heat. Bring to a rolling boil and cook until the shells have opened, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, transfer to a plate, and let stand until cool enough to handle. Discard any unopened ones. Remove the cooked mussels from their shells and put in a medium bowl; discard the shells and cooking liquid.

To cook the remaining seafood, bring a 3-qt. saucepan of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the salt and let the water return to a boil. Pour the shrimp into the boiling water and cook until the largest one is pink on the outside, opaque on the inside, and just cooked through, about 2 minutes. The water may not return to the boil before they are done. Scoop them out with a slotted spoon and drop into the bowl with the mussels.

After the water returns to a rolling boil, add the squid and cook just until they become firm and the rings turn bright white, about 1 minute. Scoop them out and drop them into the bowl along with the shrimp and mussels.

When the water returns to a rolling boil, cook the scallops until just cooked through and no longer translucent inside, 1 to 2 minutes for bay scallops, 2 to 3 minutes for sea scallops. Scoop them out and drop into the bowl as well (if using sea scallops, you may want to halve or quarter them first).

Add the lump crabmeat chunks to the bowl of seafood. Set the seafood aside on the counter while you prepare the dressing and other ingredients for the salad.

Make the dressing:

In a medium-large bowl, combine the lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, chiles, and garlic. Stir to dissolve the sugar and combine everything well. Set aside.

Assemble the salad:

Arrange the lettuce on a large serving platter or on individual serving plates as a bed for the seafood.

Transfer the cooked seafood to the bowl containing the lime-juice dressing. Add the shallots and use your hands or a wooden spoon to gently toss everything well. Add the scallions, cilantro, and mint and mix well again. Scoop the seafood onto the platter or serving plates with a slotted spoon. Toss the cucumber and tomato in the dressing remaining in the bowl and scatter around the seafood. Drizzle any remaining dressing from the bowl over the salad, especially over any lettuce not covered by the seafood. Serve immediately.

Pimento Cheese Gougères

These don’t puff up quite like traditional gougères, but they have all the same qualities that recommend consuming them one after the next, in close succession. The pimento cheese gives the interiors a custardy quality, flecked with red from the pimentos and green from the pickles, and a decidedly Southern flavor. Use the extra pimento cheese for sandwiches or dipping.

• 1/2 cup whole milk
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into several pieces
• 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
• 4 large eggs, at room temperature
• 1/4 cup grated extra sharp Cheddar
• 1 cup Pimento Cheese
• 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper

Heat the oven to 400°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment or lightly butter them.

Combine the milk, 1/2 cup water, and butter in a medium-size saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring until the butter is melted. Add the flour and salt all at once, reduce the heat to medium, and stir the mixture vigorously with a wooden spoon until it pulls away from the sides of the pan. Continue stirring for several minutes over low heat, then remove from the heat and cool for 1 minute. The dough should not brown and will be thick, smooth, and shiny.

Add the dough to the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on low speed for 3 to 4 minutes, or until it isn’t steaming any more but isn’t completely cool, before adding the eggs, one at a time, incorporating each egg before adding the next. Add the grated Cheddar and pimento cheese along with the black and cayenne peppers and mix to blend.

Use a spatula to transfer the dough to a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch round tip and pipe 1-1/2-inch mounds, approximately the volume of a heaping tablespoon, on the baking sheets 2 inches apart.

Bake until deep golden brown, about 17 minutes. Reduce the heat to 300°F, put a wooden spoon in the door so that it’s slightly ajar, and bake for another 10 minutes.

Cranberry-Pecan Croutons with Gruyère and Rosemary

Crisp on the outside, tender within, and covered in melted cheese, these ooey-gooey herby croutons are to die for. Any fruit-nut bread will work well here; walnut-raisin is a great option.

• A crusty loaf of cranberry-­pecan bread
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 3 oz. coarsely grated Gruyère (3/4 cup)
• 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary
• Flaky sea salt

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high. Cut twenty-four 1-inch cubes from the loaf of bread.

Melt 2 Tbs. of the butter in a 10-inch ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Add the bread cubes, arranging them 1/2 inch or more apart, and cook until the bottoms are golden, about 1 minute. Turn the cubes over and add the remaining 1 Tbs. butter.

Remove the skillet from the heat and top the croutons with the Gruyère and rosemary. Broil until the cheese melts, about 30 seconds. Sprinkle with sea salt. Using a metal spatula, loosen the croutons from the bottom of the pan and separate each so they’re easier to pick up. Serve in the skillet with a kitchen towel wrapped around the handle, offering toothpicks or small forks for spearing the croutons.

Gorgonzola and Fontina Nachos with Fennel and Mint

This sophisticated take on nachos may sound unusual, but the salty-tangy Gorgonzola and creamy fontina meld beautifully, fennel seeds add a subtle anise note, and fresh mint brightens the mix. It’s an irresistible combination.

• 8 oz. tortilla chips (preferably unsalted or lightly salted)
• 10 oz. coarsely grated fontina (2-1/2 cups)
• 5 oz. crumbled Gorgonzola (1 cup)
• 2 tsp. fennel seeds
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh mint

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high. Scatter the tortilla chips onto a large rimmed baking sheet. Evenly sprinkle the chips with the fontina and Gorgonzola. Crush the fennel seeds in a mortar and pestle and sprinkle over the cheese. Broil until the cheese is melted, 1 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle with the mint and serve hot from the baking sheet.

Creamy Crab and Artichoke Dip

Splurge on fresh jumbo lump crabmeat for this tasty dip or, for a less expensive option, use pasteurized “special” crabmeat from the canned seafood aisle (Boss or Chicken of the Sea are good brands). Serve with toast points or water crackers.

• 8 oz. crème fraîche
• 4 oz. cream cheese, cubed
• 2 medium cloves garlic
• 9 oz. thawed frozen artichoke hearts, gently squeezed dry
• 1/3 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/3 cup using a rasp grater)
• 2 tsp. Old Bay Seasoning
• 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
• 2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• 1 lb. crabmeat, picked through for shells, drained, and excess liquid squeezed out if canned, or lightly shredded if fresh
• Kosher salt

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high. Heat the crème fraîche and cream cheese in a 10-inch ovenproof skillet or flameproof baking dish over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until melted and bubbling, about 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a food processor, chop the garlic. Add the artichoke hearts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Old Bay Seasoning, fresh lemon juice, and Worcestershire sauce; pulse until coarsely chopped. Stir the crab and the artichoke mixture into the hot crème fraîche mixture and season to taste with salt. Broil until browned, about 3 minutes; serve from the baking dish or skillet (with a kitchen towel wrapped around the handle).

Spinach & Parmesan Stuffed Mushrooms

• 1 lb. medium white mushrooms (about 24), wiped clean
• 5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3 slices white sandwich bread
• 4 scallions (white and green parts), thinly sliced
• 1/4 cup dry sherry
• 6 oz. fresh baby spinach, roughly chopped
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 1/3 cup plus 1 Tbs. freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
• 1/2 lemon

Set an oven rack 6 inches from the top element and heat the broiler to high. Completely remove the mushroom stems; thinly slice the stems. Set the mushroom caps stem side up on a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with 1-1/2 Tbs. of the oil, and sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt and a few grinds of pepper. Broil until the mushrooms are brown and completely tender, 6 to 7 minutes.

Pulse the bread in a food processor until it forms uniform crumbs. In a large, heavy sauté pan, heat 2 Tbs. of the oil over medium-high heat. Add the breadcrumbs and 1/4 tsp. salt, and cook, stirring constantly, until the breadcrumbs crisp and turn light brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate and wipe the pan clean. Return the pan to high heat, add the remaining 1-1/2 Tbs. oil and the scallions, and sauté until browned and softened, about 2 minutes. Add the mushroom stems and 1/2 tsp. salt. Cook, stirring, until the stems soften and brown, about 3 minutes. Add the sherry and cook until almost evaporated, 30 to 60 seconds. Add the spinach and stir until it wilts, about 1 minute. Add the cream and 1/3 cup Parmigiano, reduce the heat to medium, and cook until the cream reduces slightly, about 2 minutes. Taste for salt and pepper; let cool.

Discard any liquid that may have accumulated in the mushroom caps. Mound the spinach mixture into the caps; top with the breadcrumbs (press them into the filling) and the remaining 1 Tbs. Parmigiano.

Heat the broiler to high. Broil the caps until the breadcrumbs brown a little more and the mushrooms heat through, 1 to 3 minutes. Squeeze the lemon half over the caps. Serve immediately.

Zucchini Casino

In this creative spin on clams casino, zucchini coins stand in for the bivalves.

• 1/3 cup coarse fresh breadcrumbs
• 1/3 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/3 cup using rasp grater)
• 1 Tbs. minced shallot
• Kosher salt
• 1 small zucchini
• 2 slices bacon

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high. In a small bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, Parmigiano-Reggiano, shallot, 1/4 tsp. salt, and 1 Tbs. water.

Slice the zucchini crosswise into fifteen 1/4-inch-thick rounds and arrange in a single layer on a small rimmed baking sheet. Using your fingers, mound the breadcrumb mixture on the zucchini rounds, firmly pinching the mixture so it holds together.

Cut the bacon crosswise into fifteen 1-inch pieces and place on top of the breadcrumbs. Broil until the bacon and some of the exposed breadcrumbs are browned and crisp, about 3 minutes. Serve hot.

Warm Chicken Pâté

It’s not traditional to serve chicken liver pâté warm, but it’s undeniably delicious. This decadent recipe uses both chicken livers and thighs for a milder flavor. Serve with toast points, crackers, or crudités.

• Vegetable oil, for the pan
• 10 oz. boneless, skinless chicken thighs (about 2)
• 4 oz. chicken livers
• 1/2 medium yellow onion
• 3 Tbs. amontillado sherry
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1-1/2 tsp. dried sage

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high. Lightly oil a large rimmed baking sheet.

Cut the chicken thighs into 1-inch chunks and arrange in a single layer on the sheet. Halve the chicken livers, and thinly slice the yellow onion; transfer both to the sheet with the chicken. Drizzle with 2 Tbs. of the sherry and season with 1 tsp. salt and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Broil until all are browned, the chicken and liver are cooked through, and the onions are soft, 5 to 6 minutes.

Meanwhile, put the butter, sage, and the remaining 1 Tbs. sherry in a food processor. Add the chicken, livers, and onion and process to a coarse purée, about 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve warm.

Shrimp with Cocktail Sauce & Cilantro Pesto

You can poach the shrimp yourself or buy pre-cooked shrimp.

• 3 lb. cooked large shrimp, peeled with tails on

For the cocktail sauce:

• 3/4 cup tomato ketchup
• 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
• 2 to 3 Tbs. prepared horseradish, to taste
• 1/2 tsp. celery seeds
• 1/4 tsp. ground allspice
• A few dashes Tabasco sauce, to taste

For the cilantro pesto:

• 2 cups loosely packed cilantro leaves and tender stems
• 1/3 cup unsalted roasted peanuts
• 1 clove garlic
• 1 fresh jalapeño, cored and seeded
• 3 scallions, trimmed and roughly chopped
• 1 Tbs. fish sauce
• 1/3 cup fresh lime juice
• 1/4 cup peanut oil

To make the cocktail sauce:

In a bowl, stir all the ingredients together. Add more horseradish or hot sauce to taste. Chill before serving.

To make the cilantro pesto:

In a food processor, combine the cilantro, peanuts, garlic, jalapeño, and scallions. Process to a rough paste. Add the fish sauce and lime juice; process until the sauce begins to turn creamy. With the motor running, slowly pour in the oil; process until combined. Chill before serving.

Okra Cornmeal Cakes

Serve these delicious okra cakes in bite-size bits for a cocktail nibble or larger cakes for a side dish. In the middle of summer, try adding fresh corn cut off the cob as well. The larger cakes are also brilliant layered with a soft, creamy cheese,
such as fresh goat cheese or ricotta and thickly sliced tomato to make aNapoleon.

• 2 cups fine yellow cornmeal
• 2 tsp. baking powder
• 1 tsp. fine sea salt
• 1 large egg, lightly beaten
• 1-1/2 cups water, more if needed
• 8 oz. okra, stems trimmed and sliced 1/4-inch thick
• 1 jalapeño, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
• 1 clove garlic, mashed into a paste
• 1/4 cup corn oil, for frying

Line a plate with paper towels. Set aside.

To prepare the batter, in a large bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, baking powder, and fine salt. In a second bowl or large liquid measuring cup, combine the egg and water. Add to the dry ingredients and whisk until smooth. Add the okra, jalapeño, and garlic. Stir to combine. (The batter is thick, but should be wet, not dry. Add water as needed; the amount will depend on the size grind of the cornmeal.)

To fry the griddle cakes, heat the oil in a cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Scoop 1/4 cup of batter onto the heated skillet and press into an even layer. Repeat with additional batter, without crowding. Cook the cakes until the bottoms are brown and bubbles form on the tops and edges, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn and brown the other side, an additional 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to the paper towel–lined plate. While hot, season with salt and pepper. Repeat with remaining batter. Serve immediately.

Hummus with Mellow Garlic & Cumin

Tahini blends with chickpeas, lemon, olive oil, and garlic to become the well-known Middle Eastern dip and spread known as hummus. Homemade hummus is simple to make, and it tastes much better than the mediocre and overpriced stuff sold in supermarkets. To avoid the most common pitfall of homemade hummus— way too much raw garlic—I like to gently cook the garlic in the olive oil first so it mellows and infuses the oil. Cumin and a touch of soy sauce give the hummus a savory edge. Serve with seedless cucumber rounds or pita chips or triangles for dipping.

• 1/3 cup plus 1 Tbs extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 2 tsp. ground cumin
• 2 15-1/2-oz. cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed
• 3 Tbs. tahini
• 3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice; more to taste
• 1 Tbs. soy sauce
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt; more as needed

Combine the 1/3 cup oil with the garlic and cumin in a small saucepan. Set over medium-low heat and cook until the garlic softens, about 3 minutes from when you can hear the garlic bubbling quickly. Don’t let the garlic brown. Take the pan off the heat and let cool completely.

Put the chickpeas, tahini, lemon juice, soy sauce, and salt in a food processor. Use a fork to fish the softened garlic out of the oil and transfer it to the processor (reserve the oil). Turn the machine on, let it run for about 20 seconds, and then start slowly pouring the cumin oil through the machine’s feed tube. Be sure to scrape the pan with a rubber spatula to get all of the cumin and oil. Pour 1/4 cup cool water down the tube. Stop the machine, scrape the sides of the bowl, and continue processing until the hummus is creamy and almost smooth. Season to taste with more salt and lemon juice, if you like. For best results, let the hummus sit at room temperature for an hour or two before serving so the flavors can meld. Or better yet, make it a day ahead, refrigerate it and return it to room temperature and adjust the seasonings before serving. To serve, spread hummus in a shallow dish and drizzle with the remaining 1 Tbs. oil.

Smoked Salmon Rolls

• 1/4 lb. cream cheese, at room temperature
• 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
• 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
• 2 Tbs. plus 2 tsp. thinly sliced fresh chives
• Kosher salt
• 3/4 cup shaved fresh fennel
• 8 oz. thinly sliced smoked salmon (not hot-smoked)
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped fennel fronds

Tip:

You can mix the cream cheese up to one day ahead and refrigerate it in an airtight container. Bring it to room temperature before using. The rolls can be assembled, covered, and refrigerated up to 4 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature for about 15 minutes before serving.

In a small bowl, mix the cream cheese, lemon juice, zest, chives, and 1/8 tsp. salt.

To assemble, lay an 8 or 9-inch long sheet of plastic wrap on the counter. Slightly overlap slices of salmon on the plastic to create a rectangle measuring about 3-1/2x7 inches. The long side of the rectangle should be parallel to the edge of your work surface. Cover with another sheet of plastic and press gently with your hands or a flat spatula to encourage the salmon to stick together. Remove the top sheet of plastic. Using a thin metal offset spatula or a butter knife, spread about 2 Tbs. of the cream cheese mixture on the salmon, leaving a 1/2-inch border along the long sides. Arrange about a third of the fennel shavings lengthwise on the lower half of the salmon. Sprinkle the fennel lightly with salt. Starting at the long side closest to you and using the plastic wrap as an aid, gently roll up the salmon to enclose the filling. Gently press the roll together at the seams. Transfer the roll to a cutting board. Cut the roll into 6 pieces. Repeat with the remaining salmon, cream cheese mixture, and fennel to make 2 more rolls. You may have extra salmon or fennel.

Arrange the rolls on a platter, cut side up. Garnish with the chopped fennel fronds.

Vegetarian Eggrolls

Eggrolls are quite easy to make—finding a package of Asian eggroll wrappers may be the toughest part. I like sautéing the eggrolls in a small amount of oil (or even baking them in the oven without any oil) rather than deep-frying, and serving them with a dipping sauce.

• 2 Tbs. canola or peanut oil, divided
• 3 scallions, white and green parts, sliced thinly
• 1 Tbs. finely minced fresh ginger
• 1 cup shredded carrots
• 5 cups thinly sliced napa cabbage
• 2 cups mung bean sprouts (if available)
• 1 to 2 Tbs. soy sauce, to taste
• 1 package spring roll shells
• 1 bottle sweet chili spring roll sauce or Asian dumpling sauce, Maesri brand tastes good 

Tip:

Wei-chuan spring roll shells, in a red and yellow package, are typically found in the frozen section in Asian grocery stores. There is a "super thin" variety that works nicely, if available. Some supermarkets, such as Whole Foods, do sell egg roll wrappers in a refrigerated section usually near the tofu. These can be a bit thicker (meant for deep frying), but they can work okay too.

In a large sauté pan, heat 1 Tbs. of oil over low heat and sauté scallions and ginger for a minute or two. Turn the heat to medium high and add shredded carrots, napa cabbage and mung bean sprouts; sauté  until cabbage is just slightly wilted, about 2 to 3 minutes.

Add soy sauce to taste and transfer mixture to a colander over a bowl. Let cool and drain, 7 to 10 minutes.

Place 3 or 4 Tbs. of filling toward the bottom of a wrapper and roll upward once, then fold the sides over the filling and continue rolling. Continue with the remanding wrappers and filling. Place on a plate and cover with plastic wrap while you roll the rest. The egg rolls should be cooked within 1 to 2 hours of rolling.

Heat the remaining 1 Tbs. of oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat and sauté the egg rolls in 2 batches, turning so each side becomes golden, about 7 to 8 minutes. Repeat for the remaining egg rolls. Place on paper towels to absorb any excess oil. Serve hot with sweet chili dipping sauce in individual dipping bowls, if possible.