Thai Seafood Salad (Yum Talay)

This dish boasts a playful mix of flavors: the natural sweetness of fresh seafood, the breezy notes of cilantro and mint, and the sharp accent of lime juice against a little sizzle of chile heat.In Thai cuisine, a yum is a hearty dish consisting mostly of meat, fish, or seafood, tossed just before serving with a simple mixture of fish sauce, fresh or dried chiles, lime juice, and herbs and often served atop a bed of salad greens. A yum is a stand-alone dish, perfect for a light main course or even an appetizer. The word yum refers to the action of combining an array of hot and tangy ingredients, and talay is the Thai word for ocean; thus, the mixed seafood version is called yum talay.You can prepare the components in advance but be sure to yum the dressing and seafood right before serving—this is the key to keeping the vibrant flavors distinct.

For the seafood:

• 24 small mussels
• 1 Tbs. table salt
• 3/4 lb. medium (51 to 60 per lb.) fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined
• 1/2 lb. cleaned squid, bodies sliced crosswise into 1/4-inch rings and tentacles cut in half if large
• 1/2 lb. sea scallops or bay scallops
• 1/4 lb. fresh or pasteurized jumbo lump crabmeat

Tip:

You can find frozen cleaned squid in 1-lb. packages in the freezer section. Some markets have thawed cleaned squid on ice at the seafood counter.

For the dressing:

• 6 Tbs. fresh lime juice (from 2 limes)
• 4-1/2 Tbs. fish sauce
• 1-1/2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 2 tsp. finely chopped unseeded fresh hot green chiles (like serrano or jalapeño)
• 2 tsp. finely chopped garlic (2 medium cloves)

For the salad:

• 2 cups bite-size pieces of Boston lettuce, rinsed and spun dry (1 large head)
• 3 Tbs. thinly sliced shallot (1 large)
• 1/3 cup thinly sliced scallions (4 to 5, white and green parts)
• 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
• 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh mint
• 1/2 cup sliced English cucumber (halve cucumber lengthwise and slice into 1/4-inch-thick half-moons)
• 1/2 cup halved cherry or grape tomatoes

Tip:

Chop the cilantro and mint at the last minute, just before mixing with the salad, so their flavor won't have time to fade.

Cook the seafood:

Scrub the mussels well under running water and pull off any "beards." Discard any mussels that don't close tightly when tapped on the counter. Put closed mussels in a medium saucepan. Add about 1/2 cup water, just enough to cover the bottom of the pan by about 1/4 inch. Cover and set over high heat. Bring to a rolling boil and cook until the shells have opened, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, transfer to a plate, and let stand until cool enough to handle. Discard any unopened ones. Remove the cooked mussels from their shells and put in a medium bowl; discard the shells and cooking liquid.

To cook the remaining seafood, bring a 3-qt. saucepan of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the salt and let the water return to a boil. Pour the shrimp into the boiling water and cook until the largest one is pink on the outside, opaque on the inside, and just cooked through, about 2 minutes. The water may not return to the boil before they are done. Scoop them out with a slotted spoon and drop into the bowl with the mussels.

After the water returns to a rolling boil, add the squid and cook just until they become firm and the rings turn bright white, about 1 minute. Scoop them out and drop them into the bowl along with the shrimp and mussels.

When the water returns to a rolling boil, cook the scallops until just cooked through and no longer translucent inside, 1 to 2 minutes for bay scallops, 2 to 3 minutes for sea scallops. Scoop them out and drop into the bowl as well (if using sea scallops, you may want to halve or quarter them first).

Add the lump crabmeat chunks to the bowl of seafood. Set the seafood aside on the counter while you prepare the dressing and other ingredients for the salad.

Make the dressing:

In a medium-large bowl, combine the lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, chiles, and garlic. Stir to dissolve the sugar and combine everything well. Set aside.

Assemble the salad:

Arrange the lettuce on a large serving platter or on individual serving plates as a bed for the seafood.

Transfer the cooked seafood to the bowl containing the lime-juice dressing. Add the shallots and use your hands or a wooden spoon to gently toss everything well. Add the scallions, cilantro, and mint and mix well again. Scoop the seafood onto the platter or serving plates with a slotted spoon. Toss the cucumber and tomato in the dressing remaining in the bowl and scatter around the seafood. Drizzle any remaining dressing from the bowl over the salad, especially over any lettuce not covered by the seafood. Serve immediately.

Creamy Crab and Artichoke Dip

Splurge on fresh jumbo lump crabmeat for this tasty dip or, for a less expensive option, use pasteurized “special” crabmeat from the canned seafood aisle (Boss or Chicken of the Sea are good brands). Serve with toast points or water crackers.

• 8 oz. crème fraîche
• 4 oz. cream cheese, cubed
• 2 medium cloves garlic
• 9 oz. thawed frozen artichoke hearts, gently squeezed dry
• 1/3 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/3 cup using a rasp grater)
• 2 tsp. Old Bay Seasoning
• 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
• 2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• 1 lb. crabmeat, picked through for shells, drained, and excess liquid squeezed out if canned, or lightly shredded if fresh
• Kosher salt

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high. Heat the crème fraîche and cream cheese in a 10-inch ovenproof skillet or flameproof baking dish over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until melted and bubbling, about 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a food processor, chop the garlic. Add the artichoke hearts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Old Bay Seasoning, fresh lemon juice, and Worcestershire sauce; pulse until coarsely chopped. Stir the crab and the artichoke mixture into the hot crème fraîche mixture and season to taste with salt. Broil until browned, about 3 minutes; serve from the baking dish or skillet (with a kitchen towel wrapped around the handle).

Creamy Crab and Artichoke Dip

Splurge on fresh jumbo lump crabmeat for this tasty dip or, for a less expensive option, use pasteurized “special” crabmeat from the canned seafood aisle (Boss or Chicken of the Sea are good brands). Serve with toast points or water crackers.

• 8 oz. crème fraîche
• 4 oz. cream cheese, cubed
• 2 medium cloves garlic
• 9 oz. thawed frozen artichoke hearts, gently squeezed dry
• 1/3 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/3 cup using a rasp grater)
• 2 tsp. Old Bay Seasoning
• 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
• 2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• 1 lb. crabmeat, picked through for shells, drained, and excess liquid squeezed out if canned, or lightly shredded if fresh
• Kosher salt

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high. Heat the crème fraîche and cream cheese in a 10-inch ovenproof skillet or flameproof baking dish over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until melted and bubbling, about 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a food processor, chop the garlic. Add the artichoke hearts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Old Bay Seasoning, fresh lemon juice, and Worcestershire sauce; pulse until coarsely chopped. Stir the crab and the artichoke mixture into the hot crème fraîche mixture and season to taste with salt. Broil until browned, about 3 minutes; serve from the baking dish or skillet (with a kitchen towel wrapped around the handle).

Deviled Eggs with Crabmeat and Cayenne

Here, the classic deviled egg filling is made even tastier with sweet crab, sherry, Worcestershire sauce and a hit of cayenne. Set these kicked-up nibbles on a platter at your next party and watch them disappear. Luckily for your guests, the recipe is easily doubled or tripled to serve a crowd.  

• 4 large eggs
• 3 Tbs. mayonnaise
• 1 tsp. Dijon mustard
• 1 tsp. dry sherry
• 1/2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• Big pinch cayenne
• 2 oz. crabmeat picked over and shredded (scant 1/4 cup)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Fresh lemon juice, to taste
• Paprika for sprinkling (optional)

Prepare an ice water bath. Arrange the eggs in a single layer in a steamer basket set over boiling water. Cover the steamer with a tight-fitting lid and steam for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the eggs sit, covered, for 5 minutes more.

Plunge the eggs into the ice bath. Working with one egg at a time, crackthe shell by rolling it on a flat surface. Under a stream of cold
running water, peel the shell.

Let the eggs come to room temperature.

Slice the eggs in half lengthwise. Remove the yolks, transfer them to a small bowl, and mash them with the back of a spoon.

Add the mayonnaise, mustard, sherry, Worcestershire sauce, and cayenne and continue to mash until smooth. Gently stir in the crabmeat and season to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Pipe or spoon equal amounts of the mixture into the hollows of the egg whites. When ready to serve, sprinkle with a little paprika, if you wish.

Crabmeat Empanadas with Grilled Corn Salsa & Poblano Cream Sauce

For the grilled corn salsa:

• 6 medium ears corn
• 3 Tbs. fresh lime juice (from 1 medium lime)
• 2 Tbs. sunflower or vegetable oil
• 2 Tbs. thinly sliced chives
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the poblano cream sauce:

• 3 medium poblano peppers
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1 Tbs. sunflower or vegetable oil
• 1/2 cup small-diced white onion
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
• Kosher salt

For the empandas:

• 1/2 lb. lump crabmeat, picked over for shells
• 2 Tbs. thinly sliced scallion greens
• 1 Tbs. fresh lime juice
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 large egg
• 4 sheets frozen packaged puff pastry (preferably Pepperidge Farm brand), thawed overnight in the refrigerator

Make the grilled corn salsa:

Soak the corn (with husks) in cold water for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare a medium-high gas or charcoal grill fire.

Wrap each wet corn cob separately in aluminum foil. Space them at least 1 inch apart on the grill and cook, covered, rolling each ear a quarter turn every 8 minutes until the cobs have made a complete rotation, 32 minutes total. Remove the foil, let the ears cool enough to handle, and remove the husks and silk.

Set one ear aside and put the remaining five back on the grill. Cook, turning the cobs once, until they are lightly charred, 2 to 3 minutes. Cool the corn on a rack.

Cut the charred corn from the cobs and put it in a medium bowl. Stir in the lime juice, oil, and chives and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Make the poblano cream sauce:

Char the poblanos on the grill, turning them with tongs as soon as each side becomes fully blackened, 6 to 10 minutes. Put the charred poblanos in a bowl and cover. When cool enough to handle, peel and seed them.

In a heavy-duty 2-quart saucepan, bring the cream to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to medium and simmer until reduced to 1/2 cup, about 5 minutes.

Heat the oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Put the onion mixture, poblanos, and 2 Tbs. water in a blender and puree until smooth. Stir the poblano puree into the reduced cream and season to taste with salt. Keep warm.

Make the empanadas:

Position racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F.

Cut the uncharred corn from the cob. In a medium bowl, stir together the corn, crabmeat, scallion greens, lime juice, 1 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper.

Beat the egg in small bowl with 1 Tbs. of water.

Cut each puff pastry sheet into four 3-1/2-inch squares. Drop 1 rounded Tbs. of the crab mixture in the center of each pastry square. With a pastry brush, brush two adjoining edges of each square with the egg and fold the opposite corner over to form a triangle, sealing all the way around with your thumb. Press a fork down on the sealed edges at regular intervals to form small ridges. Transfer the empanadas to two parchment-lined baking sheets. Bake until golden brown, 15 to 18 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through baking.

To serve:

Pour 1 Tbs. of the warm poblano cream sauce in a circle around a small plate. Put one empanada in the center of the plate and spoon a little corn salsa to the side. Serve immediately.

Deviled Eggs with Crabmeat and Cayenne

Here, the classic deviled egg filling is made even tastier with sweet crab, sherry, Worcestershire sauce and a hit of cayenne. Set these kicked-up nibbles on a platter at your next party and watch them disappear. Luckily for your guests, the recipe is easily doubled or tripled to serve a crowd.  

• 4 large eggs
• 3 Tbs. mayonnaise
• 1 tsp. Dijon mustard
• 1 tsp. dry sherry
• 1/2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• Big pinch cayenne
• 2 oz. crabmeat picked over and shredded (scant 1/4 cup)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Fresh lemon juice, to taste
• Paprika for sprinkling (optional)

Prepare an ice water bath. Arrange the eggs in a single layer in a steamer basket set over boiling water. Cover the steamer with a tight-fitting lid and steam for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the eggs sit, covered, for 5 minutes more.

Plunge the eggs into the ice bath. Working with one egg at a time, crackthe shell by rolling it on a flat surface. Under a stream of cold
running water, peel the shell.

Let the eggs come to room temperature.

Slice the eggs in half lengthwise. Remove the yolks, transfer them to a small bowl, and mash them with the back of a spoon.

Add the mayonnaise, mustard, sherry, Worcestershire sauce, and cayenne and continue to mash until smooth. Gently stir in the crabmeat and season to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Pipe or spoon equal amounts of the mixture into the hollows of the egg whites. When ready to serve, sprinkle with a little paprika, if you wish.

Deviled Eggs with Crabmeat and Cayenne

Here, the classic deviled egg filling is made even tastier with sweet crab, sherry, Worcestershire sauce and a hit of cayenne. Set these kicked-up nibbles on a platter at your next party and watch them disappear. Luckily for your guests, the recipe is easily doubled or tripled to serve a crowd.  

• 4 large eggs
• 3 Tbs. mayonnaise
• 1 tsp. Dijon mustard
• 1 tsp. dry sherry
• 1/2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• Big pinch cayenne
• 2 oz. crabmeat picked over and shredded (scant 1/4 cup)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Fresh lemon juice, to taste
• Paprika for sprinkling (optional)

Prepare an ice water bath. Arrange the eggs in a single layer in a steamer basket set over boiling water. Cover the steamer with a tight-fitting lid and steam for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the eggs sit, covered, for 5 minutes more.

Plunge the eggs into the ice bath. Working with one egg at a time, crackthe shell by rolling it on a flat surface. Under a stream of cold
running water, peel the shell.

Let the eggs come to room temperature.

Slice the eggs in half lengthwise. Remove the yolks, transfer them to a small bowl, and mash them with the back of a spoon.

Add the mayonnaise, mustard, sherry, Worcestershire sauce, and cayenne and continue to mash until smooth. Gently stir in the crabmeat and season to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Pipe or spoon equal amounts of the mixture into the hollows of the egg whites. When ready to serve, sprinkle with a little paprika, if you wish.

Creamy Crab and Artichoke Dip

Splurge on fresh jumbo lump crabmeat for this tasty dip or, for a less expensive option, use pasteurized “special” crabmeat from the canned seafood aisle (Boss or Chicken of the Sea are good brands). Serve with toast points or water crackers.

• 8 oz. crème fraîche
• 4 oz. cream cheese, cubed
• 2 medium cloves garlic
• 9 oz. thawed frozen artichoke hearts, gently squeezed dry
• 1/3 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/3 cup using a rasp grater)
• 2 tsp. Old Bay Seasoning
• 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
• 2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• 1 lb. crabmeat, picked through for shells, drained, and excess liquid squeezed out if canned, or lightly shredded if fresh
• Kosher salt

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high. Heat the crème fraîche and cream cheese in a 10-inch ovenproof skillet or flameproof baking dish over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until melted and bubbling, about 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a food processor, chop the garlic. Add the artichoke hearts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Old Bay Seasoning, fresh lemon juice, and Worcestershire sauce; pulse until coarsely chopped. Stir the crab and the artichoke mixture into the hot crème fraîche mixture and season to taste with salt. Broil until browned, about 3 minutes; serve from the baking dish or skillet (with a kitchen towel wrapped around the handle).

Crab & Scallion Stuffed Shrimp

For this recipe, avoid shrimp that's already been deveined; because it's been slit down the back, it can't be butterflied properly.

• 3-1/2 Tbs. unsalted butter; more for the baking sheet
• 1/3 cup thinly sliced scallions (white and light-green parts only; from 5 to 6 scallions)
• Kosher salt
• 1/2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• Two drops Sriracha hot sauce (or other Asian chile sauce)
• 1/3 cup mayonnaise
• 2 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh parsley, plus 20 whole leaves or small sprigs
• 1-1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
• 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
• 1/2 tsp. Dijon mustard
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 lb. backfin crabmeat, drained and picked over for shells
• 1-1/4 cups fine fresh breadcrumbs
• 16 jumbo shrimp (16 to 20 per lb.), butterflied
• 1 small head frisee lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces
• 1-1/2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Make the stuffing:

In a small saucepan, melt 2 Tbs. of the butter over medium-low heat. Add the scallions and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring, until softened, 3 to 4 minutes (don't brown). Take the pan off the heat and stir in the Worcestershire sauce and hot sauce. Cool to room temperature.

In a medium bowl, combine the mayonnaise, 1 Tbs. of the chopped parsley, 1 tsp. of the lemon juice, the lemon zest, the mustard, 1/4 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Stir in the cooled scallion mixture. Add the crab and mix gently but thoroughly.

In a 10-inch skillet, melt the remaining 1-1/2 Tbs. butter over medium heat. Add the breadcrumbs and cook, stirring, until light golden brown, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl and mix in the remaining 1 Tbs. chopped parsley and 1/4 tsp. salt.

Stuff the shrimp:

Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment and rub lightly with butter. Arrange the butterflied shrimp on the baking sheet. Using a spoon or your hands, mound a heaping tablespoon of the crab mixture onto each shrimp. Sprinkle and pat the breadcrumbs over the crab. (This will be messy; don't worry if there are crumbs on the baking sheet.) Flip the tail of each shrimp up and over the crab.

Bake the shrimp:

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Bake until the shrimp are cooked through, the crabmeat is hot, and the crumbs are golden brown, 12 to 14 minutes. While the shrimp are in the oven, toss the frisee and the whole parsley leaves with the remaining 1/2 tsp. lemon juice, the olive oil, and a pinch of salt. On 8 small plates, arrange a small pile of the salad and two shrimp. Serve right away.

Deviled Eggs with Crabmeat and Cayenne

Here, the classic deviled egg filling is made even tastier with sweet crab, sherry, Worcestershire sauce and a hit of cayenne. Set these kicked-up nibbles on a platter at your next party and watch them disappear. Luckily for your guests, the recipe is easily doubled or tripled to serve a crowd.  

• 4 large eggs
• 3 Tbs. mayonnaise
• 1 tsp. Dijon mustard
• 1 tsp. dry sherry
• 1/2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• Big pinch cayenne
• 2 oz. crabmeat picked over and shredded (scant 1/4 cup)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Fresh lemon juice, to taste
• Paprika for sprinkling (optional)

Prepare an ice water bath. Arrange the eggs in a single layer in a steamer basket set over boiling water. Cover the steamer with a tight-fitting lid and steam for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the eggs sit, covered, for 5 minutes more.

Plunge the eggs into the ice bath. Working with one egg at a time, crackthe shell by rolling it on a flat surface. Under a stream of cold
running water, peel the shell.

Let the eggs come to room temperature.

Slice the eggs in half lengthwise. Remove the yolks, transfer them to a small bowl, and mash them with the back of a spoon.

Add the mayonnaise, mustard, sherry, Worcestershire sauce, and cayenne and continue to mash until smooth. Gently stir in the crabmeat and season to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Pipe or spoon equal amounts of the mixture into the hollows of the egg whites. When ready to serve, sprinkle with a little paprika, if you wish.

Creamy Crab and Artichoke Dip

Splurge on fresh jumbo lump crabmeat for this tasty dip or, for a less expensive option, use pasteurized “special” crabmeat from the canned seafood aisle (Boss or Chicken of the Sea are good brands). Serve with toast points or water crackers.

• 8 oz. crème fraîche
• 4 oz. cream cheese, cubed
• 2 medium cloves garlic
• 9 oz. thawed frozen artichoke hearts, gently squeezed dry
• 1/3 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/3 cup using a rasp grater)
• 2 tsp. Old Bay Seasoning
• 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
• 2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• 1 lb. crabmeat, picked through for shells, drained, and excess liquid squeezed out if canned, or lightly shredded if fresh
• Kosher salt

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high. Heat the crème fraîche and cream cheese in a 10-inch ovenproof skillet or flameproof baking dish over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until melted and bubbling, about 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a food processor, chop the garlic. Add the artichoke hearts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Old Bay Seasoning, fresh lemon juice, and Worcestershire sauce; pulse until coarsely chopped. Stir the crab and the artichoke mixture into the hot crème fraîche mixture and season to taste with salt. Broil until browned, about 3 minutes; serve from the baking dish or skillet (with a kitchen towel wrapped around the handle).

Etta’s New Crab Cakes

In 1980, I was hired as the chef for a brand-new restaurant called Café Sport, and from the first draft of the menu, Dungeness crab cakes were a centerpiece. I still serve the very same ones at my own restaurant, Etta’s Seafood, 26 years later. They’re the most popular item on the menu.

• 8 slices white sandwich bread
• 3 Tbs. plus 2 tsp. coarsely chopped fresh flatleaf parsley
• 1 large egg yolk
• 1 Tbs. cider vinegar
• 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
• 1 Tbs. coarsely chopped red bell pepper
• 1 Tbs. coarsely chopped onion
• 1 tsp. Tabasco sauce
• 1/2 tsp. sweet paprika
• 1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 cup sour cream
• 1 lb. fresh or pasteurized blue lump crabmeat, drained and picked clean of shell, or 1 lb. fresh Dungeness crabmeat (note: if you’re using Dungeness, squeeze the crabmeat lightly to remove excess liquid)
• 6 Tbs. unsalted butter
• Red-Eye Cocktail Sauce, for serving
• 4 lemon wedges

Tip:

To make mini cakes, shape the crab cake mixture into 24 small cakes, about 1 heaping Tbs. each. Cook the crab cakes as directed in the recipe in batches of as many cakes as will fit comfortably in the skillet without crowding, and cook 2 to 3 minutes per side.

Tear up the bread and pulse it in a food processor to make fine, soft crumbs (you should have about 3-1/2 cups). Pour the crumbs into a 9x13-inch (or similar-size) dish and mix in 3 Tbs. of the parsley.

In a food processor, combine the egg yolk, vinegar, mustard, bell pepper, onion, Tabasco, paprika, thyme, 1/2 tsp. kosher salt, 1/4 tsp. pepper, and the remaining 2 tsp. parsley. Pulse to finely mince the vegetables and combine all the ingredients. With the motor running, slowly add the oil through the feed tube until the mixture emulsifies and forms a thin mayonnaise.

Transfer the mayonnaise to a large bowl and stir in the sour cream. Use a rubber spatula to gently fold in the crabmeat, taking care not to break up the lumps. Pour the crab mixture onto a large rimmed baking sheet and portion it into eight equal mounds. Gently shape each mound into a patty about 3 inches wide and 1/2 inch thick. (The mixture will be quite wet.)

Using a spatula to move the patties, lightly dredge each patty on both sides in the reserved breadcrumb mixture. Cover the crab cakes with plastic wrap and chill for at least 1 hour. (You can leave the cakes right in the pan of breadcrumbs and chill them as long as overnight.)

Heat the oven to 200°F. Heat 3 Tbs. of the butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. When the butter melts, add four crab cakes to the pan. Gently fry the crab cakes until they’re golden brown on both sides and heated through, turning just once with a spatula, about 4 min. per side. Transfer the cakes to a plate (don’t cover) and keep them warm in the oven. Wipe the skillet clean and cook the remaining crab cakes as above, using the remaining 3 Tbs. butter.

Serve hot, accompanied by ramekins of cocktail sauce and lemon wedges.

California Rolls

The California roll is an example of an "inside-out" sushi roll, where the rice is on the outside.

For the rolls:

• 1/2 recipe Sushi Rice, slightly warm
• 3 sheets toasted nori (dried seaweed)
• Sesame seeds or flying fish roe for garnish (optional)

• 3 Tbs. wasabi powder, mixed with 2 to 2-1/2 Tbs. cold water to make a paste 

• 1 large, ripe avocado
• 1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into fine julienne
• 6 oz. cooked crabmeat or diced cooked shrimp, picked over for shells

For serving:

• 10-oz. jar pickled ginger
• Good-quality soy sauce for dipping

Prepare the fillings for the rolls"

Cut slender wedges of avocado. Try this trick: without peeling, trim the top and bottom of the avocado and cut it in segments lengthwise to the pit. Pull away the peel and then gently grasp one segment at a time and pull it off. Set the avocado aside as you prepare the cucumber and crabmeat; set them aside as well.

Coat the nori with rice and start the California roll

Stack the sheets of toasted nori and cut them in half, parallel to the lines on the seaweed (as if you were folding the longest side in half). Or crease them along the fold and then tear them apart.

Completely wrap the bamboo mat in plastic wrap (to keep the rice from sticking) and put the nori in place. Make sure the mat lies completely flat after wrapping. Lay a sheet of nori horizontally on the wrapped mat, aligned with the edge of the mat that's closest to you.

Moisten your hands with a little water to keep the rice from sticking. (Keep a bowl of water handy). Grab a large handful of rice and toss and squeeze it lightly to form a loose oval ball.

Starting in one of the upper corners of the nori, spread the ball of rice across the top of the nori to the other side. Using both hands, “pull” the rice down to cover the nori. Spread the rice until the sheet is covered in a layer about 1/4 inch thick. Sprinkle the rice with sesame seeds or flying fish roe, if using, and pat evenly.

Holding the top corners of the rice-covered nori, flip it over. The rice will now be face down on the mat. Keep the bottom edge of the nori even with the edge of the mat closest to you.

Add the fillings and use the mat to make a neat roll

Using your fingers, spread a pinch of wasabi across the middle of the nori. A little goes a long way, so spread lightly. You can always put more in your dipping sauce if you like more heat.

Lay equal amounts (about a small handful) of each filling ingredient down the middle of the nori. Start with a row of cucumber, overlap with the avocado slices, and then lay the crab on top.

With all eight fingers holding in the ingredients, lift the edge of the mat closest to you with your thumbs. Tucking the ingredients into the middle of the roll, bring the edge of the mat over the ingredients and straight down. Leave 1/2 inch of the nori exposed at the top edge.

Press the roll together with your thumbs and middle fingers, while pressing down on the roll with your index fingers.

Lifting just the edge of the mat, pull it forward so that the nori roll rolls another quarter turn. The seam will now be on the bottom.

Press again with fingers and thumbs, molding the roll into a squared log.

Cut and serve the roll

Lift the mat away and transfer the roll to a cutting surface. Dip a sharp knife into a bowl of water and let a bead of water roll down the knife’s blade. Cut the roll in half and then bring one half around and cut both into thirds. Stand the pieces up on a cut side.

Repeat with four of the remaining sheets of nori (you'll have one leftover) and the remaining rice and filling ingredients. Serve the sushi with pickled ginger, a small dish of soy sauce, and a little mound of wasabi.

Creamy Crab and Artichoke Dip

Splurge on fresh jumbo lump crabmeat for this tasty dip or, for a less expensive option, use pasteurized “special” crabmeat from the canned seafood aisle (Boss or Chicken of the Sea are good brands). Serve with toast points or water crackers.

• 8 oz. crème fraîche
• 4 oz. cream cheese, cubed
• 2 medium cloves garlic
• 9 oz. thawed frozen artichoke hearts, gently squeezed dry
• 1/3 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/3 cup using a rasp grater)
• 2 tsp. Old Bay Seasoning
• 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
• 2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• 1 lb. crabmeat, picked through for shells, drained, and excess liquid squeezed out if canned, or lightly shredded if fresh
• Kosher salt

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high. Heat the crème fraîche and cream cheese in a 10-inch ovenproof skillet or flameproof baking dish over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until melted and bubbling, about 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a food processor, chop the garlic. Add the artichoke hearts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Old Bay Seasoning, fresh lemon juice, and Worcestershire sauce; pulse until coarsely chopped. Stir the crab and the artichoke mixture into the hot crème fraîche mixture and season to taste with salt. Broil until browned, about 3 minutes; serve from the baking dish or skillet (with a kitchen towel wrapped around the handle).

Cioppino

For the garlic oil and garlic chips:

• 4 large cloves garlic
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the shellfish stock:

• 1 lb. large shrimp (16-20 count)
• 6-1/2 cups homemade or low-salt chicken broth

For the cioppino broth:

• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 3 cups coarsely chopped yellow onion (about 2  medium)
• 1 cup coarsely chopped carrot (about 2  medium)
• 2/3 cup coarsely chopped celery or fennel (about 2  medium ribs celery or 1/4 medium fennel bulb)
• 3 Tbs. coarsely chopped garlic (5 to 6 large cloves)
• 6 cups canned whole peeled tomatoes, broken up, with their juices, or diced tomatoes with their juices (2 28-oz. cans)
• 2-1/2 cups (3/4 bottle) medium-bodied red wine, such as Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, or Sangiovese
• 6 cups Shellfish Stock (above)
• 3 large bay leaves
• 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil (or 1 Tbs. dried)
• 1 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh oregano (or 1 tsp. dried)
• 2 tsp. fennel seeds
• 1/2 tsp. crushed red chile flakes; more to taste
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For finishing the stew:

• 8 3/4-inch-thick slices sourdough bread
• Garlic Oil (above)
• Cioppino Broth (above)
• 1 to 1-1/2 lb. small hardshell clams, such as mahogany or cherrystones, scrubbed, or 1 whole Dungeness crab (about 2 lb.), cleaned and cut into sections (have the fishmonger do this)
• 1 to 1-1/2 lb. fresh mussels (18 to 24), scrubbed and debearded
• 2-1/2 lb. fillets of halibut, monkfish, or other firm-fleshed white fish, cut into 1-inch cubes
• Reserved peeled shrimp from above
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• Garlic Chips (above) for garnish

Up to a day ahead:

Make the garlic oil and garlic chips: Cut the garlic cloves into 1/8-inch slices, put them in a small saucepan with the oil, and season with salt and pepper. Cook over low to medium-low heat until the garlic turns light golden brown, 15 to 20  min., adjusting the heat as needed to keep the garlic bubbling gently as it cooks. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Strain, reserving both the oil and the garlic chips separately. Reserve the garlic chips for garnish (don’t leave them at room temperature for more than a day or they’ll get soggy). Refrigerate the oil in a clean, sealed container. (You’ll use the oil for the sourdough croutons; use any leftover oil for vinaigrettes, roasted vege- tables, pasta, or roast chicken.)

Make an easy shellfish stock: Peel the shrimp, reserving the shells. (Refrigerate the shelled shrimp to use later in the stew.) Simmer the shells in the chicken broth for 5  min., covered. Strain and refrigerate until ready to use.

Make the broth: Heat the olive oil in an 8-quart or larger pot over medium heat. Add the onions, carrot, celery of fennel, and chopped garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are lightly browned, 15 to 20  min. Add the tomatoes with their juices, the wine, shellfish stock, bay leaves, basil, oregano, fennel seeds, chile flakes, 1 tsp. salt, and several grinds of pepper. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer and cook for about 20 min. Strain through a medium sieve, pressing on the solids in the sieve. Discard the contents of the sieve. Rinse the pot and return the broth to the pot. Boil the broth until reduced to 8 cups. (If you over-reduce the broth, just add water to compensate.) Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed, remembering that the fish will add some saltiness to the stew. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Half an hour before serving:

Make the toast and cook the shellfish: Position a rack directly under the broiler and heat the broiler. Brush the bread on both sides with the reserved garlic oil. Put the bread on a baking sheet (or directly on the rack) and toast on both sides. While you toast the bread, return the broth to a simmer over medium-high to high  heat.

When each batch of seafood is added, it will cause the temperature of the broth to plunge, so you might need to raise and lower the heat to maintain a simmer. If using clams, start by adding them to the broth and simmer until they open, 3 to 5 min. Add the mussels and crab, if using, and simmer until the mussels have opened, 2 to 3 min. Add the fish and shrimp. Stir carefully with a slotted spoon to get all the fish and shrimp into the broth, but try not to break the pieces up. Cover and cook until the fish is just barely cooked through, another 3  to 5 min., keeping in mind that the fish will continue to cook a little in the time it takes to dish out the servings.

Assemble the stew: Set a piece of toasted sourdough in the bottom of each warm bowl and evenly portion the seafood into the bowls (be sure to discard any unopened clams or mussels). Ladle the broth on top.

Garnish and serve: Sprinkle the chopped parsley and garlic chips over all and serve immediately.

Thai Seafood Salad (Yum Talay)

This dish boasts a playful mix of flavors: the natural sweetness of fresh seafood, the breezy notes of cilantro and mint, and the sharp accent of lime juice against a little sizzle of chile heat.In Thai cuisine, a yum is a hearty dish consisting mostly of meat, fish, or seafood, tossed just before serving with a simple mixture of fish sauce, fresh or dried chiles, lime juice, and herbs and often served atop a bed of salad greens. A yum is a stand-alone dish, perfect for a light main course or even an appetizer. The word yum refers to the action of combining an array of hot and tangy ingredients, and talay is the Thai word for ocean; thus, the mixed seafood version is called yum talay.You can prepare the components in advance but be sure to yum the dressing and seafood right before serving—this is the key to keeping the vibrant flavors distinct.

For the seafood:

• 24 small mussels
• 1 Tbs. table salt
• 3/4 lb. medium (51 to 60 per lb.) fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined
• 1/2 lb. cleaned squid, bodies sliced crosswise into 1/4-inch rings and tentacles cut in half if large
• 1/2 lb. sea scallops or bay scallops
• 1/4 lb. fresh or pasteurized jumbo lump crabmeat

Tip:

You can find frozen cleaned squid in 1-lb. packages in the freezer section. Some markets have thawed cleaned squid on ice at the seafood counter.

For the dressing:

• 6 Tbs. fresh lime juice (from 2 limes)
• 4-1/2 Tbs. fish sauce
• 1-1/2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 2 tsp. finely chopped unseeded fresh hot green chiles (like serrano or jalapeño)
• 2 tsp. finely chopped garlic (2 medium cloves)

For the salad:

• 2 cups bite-size pieces of Boston lettuce, rinsed and spun dry (1 large head)
• 3 Tbs. thinly sliced shallot (1 large)
• 1/3 cup thinly sliced scallions (4 to 5, white and green parts)
• 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
• 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh mint
• 1/2 cup sliced English cucumber (halve cucumber lengthwise and slice into 1/4-inch-thick half-moons)
• 1/2 cup halved cherry or grape tomatoes

Tip:

Chop the cilantro and mint at the last minute, just before mixing with the salad, so their flavor won't have time to fade.

Cook the seafood:

Scrub the mussels well under running water and pull off any "beards." Discard any mussels that don't close tightly when tapped on the counter. Put closed mussels in a medium saucepan. Add about 1/2 cup water, just enough to cover the bottom of the pan by about 1/4 inch. Cover and set over high heat. Bring to a rolling boil and cook until the shells have opened, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, transfer to a plate, and let stand until cool enough to handle. Discard any unopened ones. Remove the cooked mussels from their shells and put in a medium bowl; discard the shells and cooking liquid.

To cook the remaining seafood, bring a 3-qt. saucepan of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the salt and let the water return to a boil. Pour the shrimp into the boiling water and cook until the largest one is pink on the outside, opaque on the inside, and just cooked through, about 2 minutes. The water may not return to the boil before they are done. Scoop them out with a slotted spoon and drop into the bowl with the mussels.

After the water returns to a rolling boil, add the squid and cook just until they become firm and the rings turn bright white, about 1 minute. Scoop them out and drop them into the bowl along with the shrimp and mussels.

When the water returns to a rolling boil, cook the scallops until just cooked through and no longer translucent inside, 1 to 2 minutes for bay scallops, 2 to 3 minutes for sea scallops. Scoop them out and drop into the bowl as well (if using sea scallops, you may want to halve or quarter them first).

Add the lump crabmeat chunks to the bowl of seafood. Set the seafood aside on the counter while you prepare the dressing and other ingredients for the salad.

Make the dressing:

In a medium-large bowl, combine the lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, chiles, and garlic. Stir to dissolve the sugar and combine everything well. Set aside.

Assemble the salad:

Arrange the lettuce on a large serving platter or on individual serving plates as a bed for the seafood.

Transfer the cooked seafood to the bowl containing the lime-juice dressing. Add the shallots and use your hands or a wooden spoon to gently toss everything well. Add the scallions, cilantro, and mint and mix well again. Scoop the seafood onto the platter or serving plates with a slotted spoon. Toss the cucumber and tomato in the dressing remaining in the bowl and scatter around the seafood. Drizzle any remaining dressing from the bowl over the salad, especially over any lettuce not covered by the seafood. Serve immediately.

Creamy Crab and Artichoke Dip

Splurge on fresh jumbo lump crabmeat for this tasty dip or, for a less expensive option, use pasteurized “special” crabmeat from the canned seafood aisle (Boss or Chicken of the Sea are good brands). Serve with toast points or water crackers.

• 8 oz. crème fraîche
• 4 oz. cream cheese, cubed
• 2 medium cloves garlic
• 9 oz. thawed frozen artichoke hearts, gently squeezed dry
• 1/3 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/3 cup using a rasp grater)
• 2 tsp. Old Bay Seasoning
• 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
• 2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• 1 lb. crabmeat, picked through for shells, drained, and excess liquid squeezed out if canned, or lightly shredded if fresh
• Kosher salt

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high. Heat the crème fraîche and cream cheese in a 10-inch ovenproof skillet or flameproof baking dish over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until melted and bubbling, about 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a food processor, chop the garlic. Add the artichoke hearts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Old Bay Seasoning, fresh lemon juice, and Worcestershire sauce; pulse until coarsely chopped. Stir the crab and the artichoke mixture into the hot crème fraîche mixture and season to taste with salt. Broil until browned, about 3 minutes; serve from the baking dish or skillet (with a kitchen towel wrapped around the handle).

Creamy Crab and Artichoke Dip

Splurge on fresh jumbo lump crabmeat for this tasty dip or, for a less expensive option, use pasteurized “special” crabmeat from the canned seafood aisle (Boss or Chicken of the Sea are good brands). Serve with toast points or water crackers.

• 8 oz. crème fraîche
• 4 oz. cream cheese, cubed
• 2 medium cloves garlic
• 9 oz. thawed frozen artichoke hearts, gently squeezed dry
• 1/3 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/3 cup using a rasp grater)
• 2 tsp. Old Bay Seasoning
• 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
• 2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• 1 lb. crabmeat, picked through for shells, drained, and excess liquid squeezed out if canned, or lightly shredded if fresh
• Kosher salt

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high. Heat the crème fraîche and cream cheese in a 10-inch ovenproof skillet or flameproof baking dish over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until melted and bubbling, about 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a food processor, chop the garlic. Add the artichoke hearts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Old Bay Seasoning, fresh lemon juice, and Worcestershire sauce; pulse until coarsely chopped. Stir the crab and the artichoke mixture into the hot crème fraîche mixture and season to taste with salt. Broil until browned, about 3 minutes; serve from the baking dish or skillet (with a kitchen towel wrapped around the handle).

Chilled Tomato Soup with Crab Salad & Pistou

 I like to use fleur de sel (French sea salt) in uncooked recipes for its sweetness, as opposed to the more metallic taste of iodized or kosher salt. If you can’t find it, use a good quality sea salt. Make the soup close to serving time; chilling it for too long mutes the bright tomato flavors.

• 1 medium clove garlic
• 1/4 cup fresh basil leaves
• Sea salt (I prefer fleur de sel)
• 1/2 cup plus 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 
• 2 ears fresh corn
• 2 lb. ripe red or purple heirloom tomatoes (I like Stupice or Purple Cherokee)
• 3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice; more to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 lb. lump crabmeat, such as Dungeness, Maine, or blue

Make the pistou:

Put the garlic, basil, and a pinch of sea salt in a mortar and pound until puréed smoothly. (Alternatively, use a chef’s knife to chop the basil very finely and to mash the garlic to a paste with the salt; then combine them in a small bowl.) Add 2 Tbs. of the olive oil, mix, and let infuse at room temperature for 1 hour.

Grill the corn:

Heat a gas grill to high or prepare a hot charcoal fire. Cut off the tip of the corn’s husks (to make it easier to remove the husks once grilled). Grill the corn in the husk for 15 to 20 minutes, giving it a quarter turn every 5 minutes, keeping the grill covered (the kernels should be cooked but not charred). When it’s cool enough to handle, remove all of the husk and silk. With a sharp knife, cut the kernels off the cob. Set the kernels aside.

Make the soup:

Core the tomatoes and cut them into chunks. Working in two batches, put half the tomatoes in a blender with 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice and 1/4 cup of the olive oil in each batch. Season with a generous pinch of sea salt and black pepper, and blend on high speed until smooth. Strain through a fine sieve, pressing on the solids to force the liquid through the mesh. Taste and adjust the seasonings if needed. Refrigerate until serving time.

Pick through the crabmeat for any bits of shell. Put it in a bowl along with 1 Tbs. lemon juice, 1 Tbs. olive oil, 1 tsp. sea salt, and black pepper totaste. Add the grilled corn kernels; mix thoroughly. Adjust the seasonings if needed.

Divide the soup among four chilled soup bowls. Spoon a mound of crab salad in the center of each serving. Stir the pistou and then drizzle it over the soup and crab. Serve at once.

Creamy Crab and Artichoke Dip

Splurge on fresh jumbo lump crabmeat for this tasty dip or, for a less expensive option, use pasteurized “special” crabmeat from the canned seafood aisle (Boss or Chicken of the Sea are good brands). Serve with toast points or water crackers.

• 8 oz. crème fraîche
• 4 oz. cream cheese, cubed
• 2 medium cloves garlic
• 9 oz. thawed frozen artichoke hearts, gently squeezed dry
• 1/3 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/3 cup using a rasp grater)
• 2 tsp. Old Bay Seasoning
• 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
• 2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• 1 lb. crabmeat, picked through for shells, drained, and excess liquid squeezed out if canned, or lightly shredded if fresh
• Kosher salt

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high. Heat the crème fraîche and cream cheese in a 10-inch ovenproof skillet or flameproof baking dish over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until melted and bubbling, about 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a food processor, chop the garlic. Add the artichoke hearts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Old Bay Seasoning, fresh lemon juice, and Worcestershire sauce; pulse until coarsely chopped. Stir the crab and the artichoke mixture into the hot crème fraîche mixture and season to taste with salt. Broil until browned, about 3 minutes; serve from the baking dish or skillet (with a kitchen towel wrapped around the handle).