Cioppino

For the garlic oil and garlic chips:

• 4 large cloves garlic
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the shellfish stock:

• 1 lb. large shrimp (16-20 count)
• 6-1/2 cups homemade or low-salt chicken broth

For the cioppino broth:

• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 3 cups coarsely chopped yellow onion (about 2  medium)
• 1 cup coarsely chopped carrot (about 2  medium)
• 2/3 cup coarsely chopped celery or fennel (about 2  medium ribs celery or 1/4 medium fennel bulb)
• 3 Tbs. coarsely chopped garlic (5 to 6 large cloves)
• 6 cups canned whole peeled tomatoes, broken up, with their juices, or diced tomatoes with their juices (2 28-oz. cans)
• 2-1/2 cups (3/4 bottle) medium-bodied red wine, such as Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, or Sangiovese
• 6 cups Shellfish Stock (above)
• 3 large bay leaves
• 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil (or 1 Tbs. dried)
• 1 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh oregano (or 1 tsp. dried)
• 2 tsp. fennel seeds
• 1/2 tsp. crushed red chile flakes; more to taste
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For finishing the stew:

• 8 3/4-inch-thick slices sourdough bread
• Garlic Oil (above)
• Cioppino Broth (above)
• 1 to 1-1/2 lb. small hardshell clams, such as mahogany or cherrystones, scrubbed, or 1 whole Dungeness crab (about 2 lb.), cleaned and cut into sections (have the fishmonger do this)
• 1 to 1-1/2 lb. fresh mussels (18 to 24), scrubbed and debearded
• 2-1/2 lb. fillets of halibut, monkfish, or other firm-fleshed white fish, cut into 1-inch cubes
• Reserved peeled shrimp from above
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• Garlic Chips (above) for garnish

Up to a day ahead:

Make the garlic oil and garlic chips: Cut the garlic cloves into 1/8-inch slices, put them in a small saucepan with the oil, and season with salt and pepper. Cook over low to medium-low heat until the garlic turns light golden brown, 15 to 20  min., adjusting the heat as needed to keep the garlic bubbling gently as it cooks. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Strain, reserving both the oil and the garlic chips separately. Reserve the garlic chips for garnish (don’t leave them at room temperature for more than a day or they’ll get soggy). Refrigerate the oil in a clean, sealed container. (You’ll use the oil for the sourdough croutons; use any leftover oil for vinaigrettes, roasted vege- tables, pasta, or roast chicken.)

Make an easy shellfish stock: Peel the shrimp, reserving the shells. (Refrigerate the shelled shrimp to use later in the stew.) Simmer the shells in the chicken broth for 5  min., covered. Strain and refrigerate until ready to use.

Make the broth: Heat the olive oil in an 8-quart or larger pot over medium heat. Add the onions, carrot, celery of fennel, and chopped garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are lightly browned, 15 to 20  min. Add the tomatoes with their juices, the wine, shellfish stock, bay leaves, basil, oregano, fennel seeds, chile flakes, 1 tsp. salt, and several grinds of pepper. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer and cook for about 20 min. Strain through a medium sieve, pressing on the solids in the sieve. Discard the contents of the sieve. Rinse the pot and return the broth to the pot. Boil the broth until reduced to 8 cups. (If you over-reduce the broth, just add water to compensate.) Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed, remembering that the fish will add some saltiness to the stew. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Half an hour before serving:

Make the toast and cook the shellfish: Position a rack directly under the broiler and heat the broiler. Brush the bread on both sides with the reserved garlic oil. Put the bread on a baking sheet (or directly on the rack) and toast on both sides. While you toast the bread, return the broth to a simmer over medium-high to high  heat.

When each batch of seafood is added, it will cause the temperature of the broth to plunge, so you might need to raise and lower the heat to maintain a simmer. If using clams, start by adding them to the broth and simmer until they open, 3 to 5 min. Add the mussels and crab, if using, and simmer until the mussels have opened, 2 to 3 min. Add the fish and shrimp. Stir carefully with a slotted spoon to get all the fish and shrimp into the broth, but try not to break the pieces up. Cover and cook until the fish is just barely cooked through, another 3  to 5 min., keeping in mind that the fish will continue to cook a little in the time it takes to dish out the servings.

Assemble the stew: Set a piece of toasted sourdough in the bottom of each warm bowl and evenly portion the seafood into the bowls (be sure to discard any unopened clams or mussels). Ladle the broth on top.

Garnish and serve: Sprinkle the chopped parsley and garlic chips over all and serve immediately.

California Bread Stuffing

Dried currants, almonds, and the surprising addition of mild, creamy goat cheese make this bread stuffing the perfect partner for the California Roast Turkey and Gravy.

• 1 1-lb. loaf rustic white bread with crust, cut into 3/4-inch cubes (12 to 14 cups)
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 3 oz. (6 Tbs.) unsalted butter; more for the baking dish
• 2 large yellow onions, cut into 1/2-inch dice
• 1 medium celery heart, sliced 1/2 inch thick
• 8 oz. pancetta, finely diced
• 3/4 cup toasted sliced almonds
• 3/4 cup dried currants
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 Tbs. minced fresh thyme
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh rosemary
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 large eggs
• 1-1/2 cups lower-salt chicken broth; more as needed
• 1/3 cup heavy cream
• 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
• 10-1/2 oz. fresh goat cheese

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.

Mix the bread cubes, oil, and garlic in a very large bowl, tossing to coat. Spread in a single layer on 2 large rimmed baking sheets; set the bowl aside. Bake, stirring, swapping positions, and rotating the pans halfway through, until just golden, about 12 minutes. Return the bread to the bowl. (The bread can be prepared to this point up to 3 days ahead. Cool, cover, and store at room temperature.)

Lower the oven temperature to 350°F. Melt 4 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and celery and cook, stirring often, until tender, about 15 minutes. Add to the bread.

Return the skillet to medium heat and melt the remaining 2 Tbs. of butter. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring, until browned. Add to the stuffing along with the almonds, currants, parsley, thyme, rosemary, 2 tsp. salt, and 1 tsp. pepper. Season to taste with more salt and pepper.

Butter a 9x13-inch baking dish. Whisk the eggs in a medium bowl to blend and then whisk in the broth, cream, and lemon zest. Pour the egg mixture over the stuffing and gently toss to combine. Let the stuffing sit until the liquid is absorbed, 5 to 10 minutes, tossing again if necessary. Add up to 1/2 cup additional broth if the stuffing seems dry; the mixture should be moist but not soggy.

Transfer half the stuffing to the prepared dish and crumble the goat cheese evenly over the top. Top with the remaining stuffing. Bake until lightly browned and crisp on top, about 40 minutes. Let stand for about 10 minutes before serving.

California Roast Turkey and Gravy

Citrus zest and juice and fresh herbs imbue this traditional roast turkey with regional flavor. Buttering and salting the turkey 1 to 2 days before roasting seasons the bird inside and out without the fuss of wet brining. Be sure to let the bird warm up at room temperature before roasting so it cooks up juicy and tender.

For the turkey

• 1 16-lb. fresh turkey, neck, tail, and giblets reserved for the gravy
• 5 oz. (10 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh rosemary
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh thyme
• 1 Tbs. minced garlic
• 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
• 2 tsp. finely grated orange zest

For the gravy

• 1 small yellow onion, quartered
• 2 medium stalks celery, halved crosswise
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 3 cups lower-salt chicken broth
• 2 cups Madeira
• 2-1/4 oz. (1/2 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Butter and salt the turkey

Line a 12x16-inch heavy-duty roasting pan with 2 layers of paper towels. Blot the turkey dry inside and out.

In a small bowl, combine the butter with 2 tsp. salt and 1 tsp. pepper; stir in the rosemary, thyme, garlic, lemon zest, and orange zest. Set aside 1/4 cup of the butter mixture for making the gravy.

Slide your hand under the turkey’s skin to loosen it from the breast andthigh meat. Using your fingers, spread the butter directly on the
breast and thigh meat, being careful not to tear the skin. Season the
turkey inside and out with 1-1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper. Tuck the
wings behind the neck and tie the legs together with kitchen twine.

Set the turkey breast side up in the prepared pan. Loosely cover with waxed paper or parchment and refrigerate for 1 to 2 days.

Make the broth for the gravy

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the turkey neck, tail, giblets (excluding the liver), onion, and celery with the oil; arrange in a single layer. Roast, stirring once, until well browned, about 40 minutes.

Transfer the roasted ingredients to a heavy-duty 5-quart pot. Pour 1 cup of the chicken broth onto the hot baking sheet and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom with a wooden spatula; transfer to the pot. Add the remaining broth and 1 quart water. Bring to a boil; lower the heat and simmer gently until reduced to 3 cups, about 1-1/2 hours. Strain through a medium-mesh sieve into a 2-quart measuring cup; discard the solids.

Roast the turkey

Uncover the turkey, discard the paper towels, and set the turkey on a V-rack in the roasting pan. Let sit for 1 hour at room temperature.

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Roast the turkey, basting occasionally after 1 hour and rotating the pan halfway through, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh registers 165°F, 2 to 2-1/2 hours. If the skin gets too dark during roasting, tent with foil.

Tilt the turkey so the juice in the cavity runs into the roasting pan. Transfer the turkey to a platter or carving board. Remove the string, tent with foil, and let rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour before carving and serving.

Make the gravy

Pour the drippings from the turkey roasting pan into a fat separator and allow the fat to rise to the top. Transfer 1/4 cup of the fat to a 3- to 4-quart saucepan; discard the remaining fat and add the defatted drippings to the reserved broth in the measuring cup.

Add the Madeira to the roasting pan and boil over medium-high heat, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, until reduced to 1/2 cup, about 10 minutes. Strain through a medium-mesh sieve set over the measuring cup of broth.

Add the reserved butter to the fat in the saucepan and melt over medium-high heat. Add the flour and cook, whisking constantly, until slightly thickened, 3 to 4 minutes. Slowly whisk in the broth mixture and bring to a boil; then turn the heat down and simmer vigorously, whisking occasionally, until the gravy is reduced to 4 cups, 8 to 16 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Carve the turkey and serve with the hot gravy.

Mozzarella, Tomato & Basil Quesadillas with Parmesan Crust

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 1 ounce finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano (1/2 cup)
• 4 9- or 10-inch flour tortillas (burrito size)
• 8 ounces mozzarella (see note), coarsely grated (about 2 cups)
• 2 medium tomatoes (about 3/4 pound total), seeded and coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 1/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Position a rack in the center of the oven; heat the oven to 200°F.

In a small bowl, mix the butter and Parmigiano. Spread this on one side of each tortilla and set the tortillas on a work surface, buttered side down. Distribute the mozzarella among the tortillas, covering only half of each and leaving a 1-inch margin at the edge. Follow with the tomatoes and basil, and sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon each kosher salt and pepper. Fold the tortillas in half to enclose the filling, creating a half-moon.

In a 10- or 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, cook two of the quesadillas, covered, until golden brown on the first side, about 3 minutes. Uncover, flip, and cook until the secondside is golden brown and the cheese has melted completely, about 2 minutes. (Watch carefully as the Parmigiano crust can burn easily; lower the heat if it’s getting too dark.) Transfer the quesadillas to the oven to keep warm and repeat with the remaining two quesadillas. Cut the quesadillas in half (or in smaller wedges if serving as an hors d’oeuvre) and serve.

Note: Water-packed mozzarella is a fresh style and should be bought and consumed within a few days. It doesn’t grate very well, so just cut it into small pieces. Vacuum-sealed mozzarella is usually much drier and can be easily grated.

California Roast Turkey and Gravy

Citrus zest and juice and fresh herbs imbue this traditional roast turkey with regional flavor. Buttering and salting the turkey 1 to 2 days before roasting seasons the bird inside and out without the fuss of wet brining. Be sure to let the bird warm up at room temperature before roasting so it cooks up juicy and tender.

For the turkey

• 1 16-lb. fresh turkey, neck, tail, and giblets reserved for the gravy
• 5 oz. (10 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh rosemary
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh thyme
• 1 Tbs. minced garlic
• 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
• 2 tsp. finely grated orange zest

For the gravy

• 1 small yellow onion, quartered
• 2 medium stalks celery, halved crosswise
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 3 cups lower-salt chicken broth
• 2 cups Madeira
• 2-1/4 oz. (1/2 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Butter and salt the turkey

Line a 12x16-inch heavy-duty roasting pan with 2 layers of paper towels. Blot the turkey dry inside and out.

In a small bowl, combine the butter with 2 tsp. salt and 1 tsp. pepper; stir in the rosemary, thyme, garlic, lemon zest, and orange zest. Set aside 1/4 cup of the butter mixture for making the gravy.

Slide your hand under the turkey’s skin to loosen it from the breast andthigh meat. Using your fingers, spread the butter directly on the
breast and thigh meat, being careful not to tear the skin. Season the
turkey inside and out with 1-1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper. Tuck the
wings behind the neck and tie the legs together with kitchen twine.

Set the turkey breast side up in the prepared pan. Loosely cover with waxed paper or parchment and refrigerate for 1 to 2 days.

Make the broth for the gravy

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the turkey neck, tail, giblets (excluding the liver), onion, and celery with the oil; arrange in a single layer. Roast, stirring once, until well browned, about 40 minutes.

Transfer the roasted ingredients to a heavy-duty 5-quart pot. Pour 1 cup of the chicken broth onto the hot baking sheet and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom with a wooden spatula; transfer to the pot. Add the remaining broth and 1 quart water. Bring to a boil; lower the heat and simmer gently until reduced to 3 cups, about 1-1/2 hours. Strain through a medium-mesh sieve into a 2-quart measuring cup; discard the solids.

Roast the turkey

Uncover the turkey, discard the paper towels, and set the turkey on a V-rack in the roasting pan. Let sit for 1 hour at room temperature.

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Roast the turkey, basting occasionally after 1 hour and rotating the pan halfway through, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh registers 165°F, 2 to 2-1/2 hours. If the skin gets too dark during roasting, tent with foil.

Tilt the turkey so the juice in the cavity runs into the roasting pan. Transfer the turkey to a platter or carving board. Remove the string, tent with foil, and let rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour before carving and serving.

Make the gravy

Pour the drippings from the turkey roasting pan into a fat separator and allow the fat to rise to the top. Transfer 1/4 cup of the fat to a 3- to 4-quart saucepan; discard the remaining fat and add the defatted drippings to the reserved broth in the measuring cup.

Add the Madeira to the roasting pan and boil over medium-high heat, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, until reduced to 1/2 cup, about 10 minutes. Strain through a medium-mesh sieve set over the measuring cup of broth.

Add the reserved butter to the fat in the saucepan and melt over medium-high heat. Add the flour and cook, whisking constantly, until slightly thickened, 3 to 4 minutes. Slowly whisk in the broth mixture and bring to a boil; then turn the heat down and simmer vigorously, whisking occasionally, until the gravy is reduced to 4 cups, 8 to 16 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Carve the turkey and serve with the hot gravy.

California Bread Stuffing

Dried currants, almonds, and the surprising addition of mild, creamy goat cheese make this bread stuffing the perfect partner for the California Roast Turkey and Gravy.

• 1 1-lb. loaf rustic white bread with crust, cut into 3/4-inch cubes (12 to 14 cups)
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 3 oz. (6 Tbs.) unsalted butter; more for the baking dish
• 2 large yellow onions, cut into 1/2-inch dice
• 1 medium celery heart, sliced 1/2 inch thick
• 8 oz. pancetta, finely diced
• 3/4 cup toasted sliced almonds
• 3/4 cup dried currants
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 Tbs. minced fresh thyme
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh rosemary
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 large eggs
• 1-1/2 cups lower-salt chicken broth; more as needed
• 1/3 cup heavy cream
• 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
• 10-1/2 oz. fresh goat cheese

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.

Mix the bread cubes, oil, and garlic in a very large bowl, tossing to coat. Spread in a single layer on 2 large rimmed baking sheets; set the bowl aside. Bake, stirring, swapping positions, and rotating the pans halfway through, until just golden, about 12 minutes. Return the bread to the bowl. (The bread can be prepared to this point up to 3 days ahead. Cool, cover, and store at room temperature.)

Lower the oven temperature to 350°F. Melt 4 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and celery and cook, stirring often, until tender, about 15 minutes. Add to the bread.

Return the skillet to medium heat and melt the remaining 2 Tbs. of butter. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring, until browned. Add to the stuffing along with the almonds, currants, parsley, thyme, rosemary, 2 tsp. salt, and 1 tsp. pepper. Season to taste with more salt and pepper.

Butter a 9x13-inch baking dish. Whisk the eggs in a medium bowl to blend and then whisk in the broth, cream, and lemon zest. Pour the egg mixture over the stuffing and gently toss to combine. Let the stuffing sit until the liquid is absorbed, 5 to 10 minutes, tossing again if necessary. Add up to 1/2 cup additional broth if the stuffing seems dry; the mixture should be moist but not soggy.

Transfer half the stuffing to the prepared dish and crumble the goat cheese evenly over the top. Top with the remaining stuffing. Bake until lightly browned and crisp on top, about 40 minutes. Let stand for about 10 minutes before serving.

Mozzarella, Tomato & Basil Quesadillas with Parmesan Crust

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 1 ounce finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano (1/2 cup)
• 4 9- or 10-inch flour tortillas (burrito size)
• 8 ounces mozzarella (see note), coarsely grated (about 2 cups)
• 2 medium tomatoes (about 3/4 pound total), seeded and coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 1/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Position a rack in the center of the oven; heat the oven to 200°F.

In a small bowl, mix the butter and Parmigiano. Spread this on one side of each tortilla and set the tortillas on a work surface, buttered side down. Distribute the mozzarella among the tortillas, covering only half of each and leaving a 1-inch margin at the edge. Follow with the tomatoes and basil, and sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon each kosher salt and pepper. Fold the tortillas in half to enclose the filling, creating a half-moon.

In a 10- or 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, cook two of the quesadillas, covered, until golden brown on the first side, about 3 minutes. Uncover, flip, and cook until the secondside is golden brown and the cheese has melted completely, about 2 minutes. (Watch carefully as the Parmigiano crust can burn easily; lower the heat if it’s getting too dark.) Transfer the quesadillas to the oven to keep warm and repeat with the remaining two quesadillas. Cut the quesadillas in half (or in smaller wedges if serving as an hors d’oeuvre) and serve.

Note: Water-packed mozzarella is a fresh style and should be bought and consumed within a few days. It doesn’t grate very well, so just cut it into small pieces. Vacuum-sealed mozzarella is usually much drier and can be easily grated.

Tabbouleh Salad with Roasted Tomatoes

There’s a great debate among cooks from the Middle East about the ratio of bulgur to parsley in a tabbouleh. Some say it should be at least 8 parts parsley to 1 part bulgur. In this version, I’ve used a bit more bulgur. The California hook in this salad is the sweet and caramelized roasted tomatoes. They’re a perfect foil for the lemony-herby tabbouleh.

For the tomatoes:

• 3 lb. ripe medium tomatoes, halved and gently seeded
• 3 Tbs. olive oil
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the salad:

• 1/3 cup fine bulgur wheat
• 1/3 cup rich vegetable stock, chicken stock, or water, heated to boiling
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1-1/2 cups finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh mint
• 2 Tbs. minced scallion (white and green parts)
• 1 Tbs. finely minced garlic
• 3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
• 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

For the garnish:

• 1/4 cup toasted pine nuts
• Fresh mint sprigs

To roast the tomatoes— Heat the oven to 350°F. Coat the tomato halves with the olive oil, season them lightly with salt and pepper, and arrange them, cut side down, on a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet. Roast for about 2-1/2 hours. The tomatoes should be very concentrated and browned, and most of their juices will have cooked off. (The tomatoes can be cooked a day or two ahead and refrigerated; before serving, bring to room temperature.)

To make the salad— In a bowl, combine the bulgur, boiling stock, and half the olive oil; cover and let stand for at least 30 minutes. Uncover and fluff with a fork. Stir in the remaining olive oil, the parsley, mint, scallion, garlic, lemon juice, and zest. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed.

To serve— Mound the tabbouleh in the middle of each plate and arrange the roasted tomatoes around the tabbouleh. Garnish with the pine nuts and sprigs of mint.

Tomato-Centric Cobb Salad

There's nothing wrong with the classic Cobb salad, but a few ingredient tweaks--more in-season tomatoes, the addition of tarragon, and a creamy blue cheese dressing instead of a vinaigrette plus cheese crumbles--makes this unforgettable.

• 2 slices bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 4 large croutons crumbled, or homemade bread crumbs, toasted in a skillet with olive oil, salt, and fresh rosemary or thyme
• Squeeze of lemon juice
• 1/4 cup crème fraîche or sour cream
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh tarragon
• 2 Tbs. crumbled blue cheese (such as Maytag or Point Reyes Blue)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 large heirloom tomatoes, cut into slices, or 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
• 1 cup arugula or mâche greens, or 8 leaves romaine lettuce, chopped into 3/4-inch-wide ribbons (chiffonade)
• 1 ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and sliced
• 2 large Medium-Boiled Eggs, peeled and halved

Heat a small sauté pan over high heat. Add the bacon pieces to the hot pan and decrease the heat to low. Cook the bacon until crispy, then toss the croutons with the bacon and its rendered bacon fat; add a squeeze of lemon juice. Remove from the heat and set aside.

For the blue cheese dressing, combine the crème fraîche with the tarragon and blue cheese in a bowl and whisk until smooth; season with salt and pepper.

To assemble the salad, season the tomatoes with salt. Smear a large spoonful of the dressing onto each plate. Toss the greens in the remaining dressing and divide among the plates. Add the tomatoes, avocado slices, and 1 egg half to each plate. Top with the croutons and bacon and finish with some pepper. Serve immediately.

Mozzarella, Tomato & Basil Quesadillas with Parmesan Crust

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 1 ounce finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano (1/2 cup)
• 4 9- or 10-inch flour tortillas (burrito size)
• 8 ounces mozzarella (see note), coarsely grated (about 2 cups)
• 2 medium tomatoes (about 3/4 pound total), seeded and coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 1/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Position a rack in the center of the oven; heat the oven to 200°F.

In a small bowl, mix the butter and Parmigiano. Spread this on one side of each tortilla and set the tortillas on a work surface, buttered side down. Distribute the mozzarella among the tortillas, covering only half of each and leaving a 1-inch margin at the edge. Follow with the tomatoes and basil, and sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon each kosher salt and pepper. Fold the tortillas in half to enclose the filling, creating a half-moon.

In a 10- or 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, cook two of the quesadillas, covered, until golden brown on the first side, about 3 minutes. Uncover, flip, and cook until the secondside is golden brown and the cheese has melted completely, about 2 minutes. (Watch carefully as the Parmigiano crust can burn easily; lower the heat if it’s getting too dark.) Transfer the quesadillas to the oven to keep warm and repeat with the remaining two quesadillas. Cut the quesadillas in half (or in smaller wedges if serving as an hors d’oeuvre) and serve.

Note: Water-packed mozzarella is a fresh style and should be bought and consumed within a few days. It doesn’t grate very well, so just cut it into small pieces. Vacuum-sealed mozzarella is usually much drier and can be easily grated.

Cioppino

For the garlic oil and garlic chips:

• 4 large cloves garlic
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the shellfish stock:

• 1 lb. large shrimp (16-20 count)
• 6-1/2 cups homemade or low-salt chicken broth

For the cioppino broth:

• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 3 cups coarsely chopped yellow onion (about 2  medium)
• 1 cup coarsely chopped carrot (about 2  medium)
• 2/3 cup coarsely chopped celery or fennel (about 2  medium ribs celery or 1/4 medium fennel bulb)
• 3 Tbs. coarsely chopped garlic (5 to 6 large cloves)
• 6 cups canned whole peeled tomatoes, broken up, with their juices, or diced tomatoes with their juices (2 28-oz. cans)
• 2-1/2 cups (3/4 bottle) medium-bodied red wine, such as Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, or Sangiovese
• 6 cups Shellfish Stock (above)
• 3 large bay leaves
• 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil (or 1 Tbs. dried)
• 1 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh oregano (or 1 tsp. dried)
• 2 tsp. fennel seeds
• 1/2 tsp. crushed red chile flakes; more to taste
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For finishing the stew:

• 8 3/4-inch-thick slices sourdough bread
• Garlic Oil (above)
• Cioppino Broth (above)
• 1 to 1-1/2 lb. small hardshell clams, such as mahogany or cherrystones, scrubbed, or 1 whole Dungeness crab (about 2 lb.), cleaned and cut into sections (have the fishmonger do this)
• 1 to 1-1/2 lb. fresh mussels (18 to 24), scrubbed and debearded
• 2-1/2 lb. fillets of halibut, monkfish, or other firm-fleshed white fish, cut into 1-inch cubes
• Reserved peeled shrimp from above
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• Garlic Chips (above) for garnish

Up to a day ahead:

Make the garlic oil and garlic chips: Cut the garlic cloves into 1/8-inch slices, put them in a small saucepan with the oil, and season with salt and pepper. Cook over low to medium-low heat until the garlic turns light golden brown, 15 to 20  min., adjusting the heat as needed to keep the garlic bubbling gently as it cooks. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Strain, reserving both the oil and the garlic chips separately. Reserve the garlic chips for garnish (don’t leave them at room temperature for more than a day or they’ll get soggy). Refrigerate the oil in a clean, sealed container. (You’ll use the oil for the sourdough croutons; use any leftover oil for vinaigrettes, roasted vege- tables, pasta, or roast chicken.)

Make an easy shellfish stock: Peel the shrimp, reserving the shells. (Refrigerate the shelled shrimp to use later in the stew.) Simmer the shells in the chicken broth for 5  min., covered. Strain and refrigerate until ready to use.

Make the broth: Heat the olive oil in an 8-quart or larger pot over medium heat. Add the onions, carrot, celery of fennel, and chopped garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are lightly browned, 15 to 20  min. Add the tomatoes with their juices, the wine, shellfish stock, bay leaves, basil, oregano, fennel seeds, chile flakes, 1 tsp. salt, and several grinds of pepper. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer and cook for about 20 min. Strain through a medium sieve, pressing on the solids in the sieve. Discard the contents of the sieve. Rinse the pot and return the broth to the pot. Boil the broth until reduced to 8 cups. (If you over-reduce the broth, just add water to compensate.) Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed, remembering that the fish will add some saltiness to the stew. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Half an hour before serving:

Make the toast and cook the shellfish: Position a rack directly under the broiler and heat the broiler. Brush the bread on both sides with the reserved garlic oil. Put the bread on a baking sheet (or directly on the rack) and toast on both sides. While you toast the bread, return the broth to a simmer over medium-high to high  heat.

When each batch of seafood is added, it will cause the temperature of the broth to plunge, so you might need to raise and lower the heat to maintain a simmer. If using clams, start by adding them to the broth and simmer until they open, 3 to 5 min. Add the mussels and crab, if using, and simmer until the mussels have opened, 2 to 3 min. Add the fish and shrimp. Stir carefully with a slotted spoon to get all the fish and shrimp into the broth, but try not to break the pieces up. Cover and cook until the fish is just barely cooked through, another 3  to 5 min., keeping in mind that the fish will continue to cook a little in the time it takes to dish out the servings.

Assemble the stew: Set a piece of toasted sourdough in the bottom of each warm bowl and evenly portion the seafood into the bowls (be sure to discard any unopened clams or mussels). Ladle the broth on top.

Garnish and serve: Sprinkle the chopped parsley and garlic chips over all and serve immediately.

Tomato-Centric Cobb Salad

There's nothing wrong with the classic Cobb salad, but a few ingredient tweaks--more in-season tomatoes, the addition of tarragon, and a creamy blue cheese dressing instead of a vinaigrette plus cheese crumbles--makes this unforgettable.

• 2 slices bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 4 large croutons crumbled, or homemade bread crumbs, toasted in a skillet with olive oil, salt, and fresh rosemary or thyme
• Squeeze of lemon juice
• 1/4 cup crème fraîche or sour cream
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh tarragon
• 2 Tbs. crumbled blue cheese (such as Maytag or Point Reyes Blue)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 large heirloom tomatoes, cut into slices, or 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
• 1 cup arugula or mâche greens, or 8 leaves romaine lettuce, chopped into 3/4-inch-wide ribbons (chiffonade)
• 1 ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and sliced
• 2 large Medium-Boiled Eggs, peeled and halved

Heat a small sauté pan over high heat. Add the bacon pieces to the hot pan and decrease the heat to low. Cook the bacon until crispy, then toss the croutons with the bacon and its rendered bacon fat; add a squeeze of lemon juice. Remove from the heat and set aside.

For the blue cheese dressing, combine the crème fraîche with the tarragon and blue cheese in a bowl and whisk until smooth; season with salt and pepper.

To assemble the salad, season the tomatoes with salt. Smear a large spoonful of the dressing onto each plate. Toss the greens in the remaining dressing and divide among the plates. Add the tomatoes, avocado slices, and 1 egg half to each plate. Top with the croutons and bacon and finish with some pepper. Serve immediately.