Showing posts with label Clams. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Clams. Show all posts

Thursday, November 14, 2013

Simple Seafood Stew

It’s hard to decide which is better, the mix of fresh, sweet seafood or the briny, buttery broth in the bottom of the bowl. Fortunately, each aromatic bowlful of stew contains plenty of both. Serving some crusty bread with this dish for mopping up the broth is simply nonnegotiable.
  • 12 jumbo shrimp (21 to 25 per lb.), peeled (reserve the shells) and deveined
  • 1 clove garlic, smashed and peeled, plus 1 Tbs. finely chopped
  • 4 large sprigs fresh parsley, plus 1/4 cup chopped
  • 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter, more to taste
  • 1 Tbs. olive oil
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped shallot
  • 1 cup dry white wine
  • 2 dozen small littleneck clams, scrubbed
  • 1 lb. mussels, scrubbed and debearded
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 large ripe tomato, seeded and diced
  • 8 large sea scallops, side muscle removed, halved horizontally

In a 5- to 6-quart pot, toast the shrimp shells and the garlic clove over medium-high heat, stirring, until the shells turn pink, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the parsley sprigs and 2 cups water, bring to a boil, then boil for 3 minutes. Strain the broth into a bowl and reserve.

Heat the butter and olive oil in the cleaned pot over medium heat until the butter is melted. Add the chopped garlic and the shallot and cook, stirring, until the garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the wine and the reserved shrimp broth and bring to a boil over high heat.

Add the clams and mussels and cook, covered, until the mussels start to open, about 4 minutes. As they open, transfer them with a slotted spoon to a large, wide serving bowl or 4 large individual bowls. Continue to cook the clams, stirring occasionally, until they start to open, about 2 minutes more. Transfer them to the serving bowl. (Discard any clams or mussels that don’t open after 8 minutes.) Sprinkle with half of the chopped parsley.

Reduce the heat to medium and season the broth with salt and pepper to taste. Add the tomato, scallops, and shrimp to the broth, cover, and cook until the shrimp turn pink and the scallops are opaque, about 2 minutes. Transfer the shrimp, scallops, and broth to the bowl and sprinkle with the remaining chopped parsley.

Shellfish with Fennel, Escarole, and Kale

Your Christmas Eve meal should be festive, but not so labor-intensive you spend all your time in the kitchen instead of visiting with family and friends. This simple but indulgent mixed shellfish dish from Michelle Bernstein of Michy's, in Miami, is great on its own with a crusty bread to sop up the sauce, or as part of an authentic Italian holiday feast. 
  • 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  • 2 Tbs. olive oil
  • 12 grape tomatoes
  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced fennel
  • 3 medium cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  • 1 cup thinly sliced escarole leaves
  • 1 Tbs. amontillado sherry
  • 1 cup fish broth or bottled clam juice
  • 16 littleneck clams, scrubbed
  • 16 mussels, debearded and scrubbed
  • 6-1/2 oz. (1 cup) medium shrimp (41 to 50 per lb.; preferably wild), peeled and deveined, with tails left intact
  • 1 cup thinly sliced kale leaves
  • 1/8 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  • 1/4 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley; more for garnish
  • 1/2 tsp. fresh rosemary, minced
  • Finely grated zest of half a lemon (2 tsp.)
  • 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a small saucepan, heat the butter over medium heat until it turns golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour into a small bowl and set aside.


In a 12-inch skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the tomatoes and cook until they start to blister, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the fennel and garlic. Cook, shaking the pan, until the garlic becomes golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the escarole and stir for 1 minute. Add the sherry, raise the heat to high, and cook until it evaporates, about 30 seconds. Add the fish broth and boil until it reduces slightly, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the clams, cover, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the mussels, cover, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the shrimp, cover, and cook for 1 minute. With a slotted spoon, transfer the open shellfish and shrimp to a large bowl and cover loosely with foil. Toss any that do not open.


Stir the kale and pepper flakes into the broth and cook until the kale wilts, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and add the parsley and rosemary. Pour in the browned butter. Add the lemon zest and juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Distribute the broth, vegetables, and seafood among 4 wide, deep bowls. Garnish with parsley.

Grilled Mussels, Clams, and Oysters

  Nothing quite matches the sweet, intense,and slightly charred taste of shellfish when it's cooked on the grill. Serve these simple grilled mussels, clams, and oysters with Bloody Mary Cocktail Sauce, Old Bay Dipping Sauce, or Orange-Saffron Aioli.
  • 30 fresh mussels, clams, or oysters in the shell

Scrub the shellfish with a stiff brush under cool running water. If the mussels have beards, pull them off. Pat dry.

Prepare a medium-high gas or charcoal fire. When the grill is ready, set the shellfish directly on the cooking grate (oysters cupped side down). Grill until the shells pop open, the meat is plump, and the juices are boiling and sizzling in the shell, 3 to 7 minutes for mussels, 6 to 10 minutes for clams, and 4 to 6 minutes for oysters; there’s no need to turn the shellfish. (Cooking times can vary widely, because the larger the shellfish, the longer it will take to cook; on the other hand, the fresher it is, the shorter the cooking time.) Remove the shellfish as they finish cooking, protecting your hands with tongs or hot pads. Discard any that don’t open. Serve on the half shell with the dipping sauce of your choice.

New England Clambake

Instead of digging a sand pit, fire up your kettle grill to steam a party's worth of lobsters, clams, mussels, corn and potatoes.
  • 2 lb. live clams, preferably a mix of soft-shell "steamers" and a hard-shell variety like mahogany or littleneck
  • 1 lb. mussels
  • 1-1/2 lb. small new potatoes
  • 4 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves
  • 4 sausages, such as bratwurst, chorizo, Italian, or other specialty links
  • 4 live lobsters (about 1 lb. each)
  • 4 ears corn, husks and silks removed
  • Olive oil, for brushing
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 1 lb. unsalted butter
Tip:
To build the fire, you'll also need 20 to 25 lb. of  hardwood lump charcoal, 50 lb. of seasoned hardwood chunks, and a 5-gallon bucket of fresh rockweed seaweed.

Prep the ingredients

Rinse the clams, discarding any that don't close tightly when tapped. Bundle each variety in a double layer of cheesecloth.

Rinse and scrub the mussels, pulling off any tough beards, and bundle the mussels in a double layer of cheesecloth.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat, and cook the potatoes until almost tender, about 5 minutes. Drain.

Build the fire and prep the grill

Start with a clean grill kettle, with all the air vents open. Using a chimney-style grill starter, light about a gallon of charcoal. When the coals are glowing evenly, dump them into the grill and spread them to form the first layer.

Next, add a layer of hardwood chunks, let them burn down until nearly reduced to coals, and then add another layer of hardwood. Depending on the type of wood, it takes about 15 to 25 minutes for each layer to burn down.

Add one more layer of charcoal to the fire. Once these coals are glowing briskly, spread the fire evenly, and put the grill's grid in place.

When 90% of the charcoal has turned either ashen white or luminous red, brush the chicken breasts with olive oil, season them with salt and pepper, and briefly grill them to create grill marks on each side (about 3 minutes per side).

Prick the sausages with a fork and grill briefly to brown, about 3 minutes. Set the chicken and sausages aside.

Crimp and fold the aluminum foil into a disk that's slightly smaller thanthe diameter of the grill. Be sure to leave about 2 inches around the perimeter of the disk so heat can circulate up and around the food.

Layer th e shellfish on the grill

Spread a 2-inch layer of seaweed on the foil disk, being careful to leave a 1-inch gap around the perimeter. Lay the lobsters on their backs on the seaweed bed, keeping them close together and taking up no more than one-third of the surface area of the seaweed. Put the clam and mussel bundles on the seaweed, opening side up, and flatten the bundles slightly. Quickly arrange the chicken, sausages, corn and potatoes around the shellfish as space allows. Cover the food with a 1-inch layer of seaweed, being careful to leave a 1-inch gap around the edge.

Cover the grill and leave the vents open. Cook the clambake for 25 minutes without opening the lid. While the clambake cooks, melt the butter and keep it warm for dipping.

Check for doneness and serve

Uncover the grill, tilting the lid away from you to avoid steam burns. With a pair of long tongs, peel back the seaweed to uncover one lobster. Look for a uniform red color and pull on one antenna near the mouth; if the lobster is cooked through, the antenna will detach easily. If the lobsters are done, check the clams and mussels: their shells will be fully opened when done. Cut the packages open with a pair of scissors. Check the chicken and sausages with an instant-read thermometer; it should read 160 to 165°F

Arrange the food on large platters, spoon the melted butter into individual serving dishes and let your guests help themselves.

Manila Clams with North African Spices

The distinctive flavors in this dish were inspired by the Moroccan marinade called charmoula. Littleneck clams can be substituted for Manila clams but will take a little longer to cook.
  • 2 Tbs. olive oil
  • 2 medium shallots, thinly sliced
  • 1 tsp. sweet smoked paprika
  • 1 tsp. ground cumin
  • 1 tsp. ground coriander
  • A generous 1/8 tsp. cayenne
  • 2/3 cup dry white wine
  • 2 lb. Manila clams, well rinsed
  • 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
  • Kosher salt
  • 3 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Heat the oil in a 5- to 6-quart heavy-duty pot over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring, until they begin to soften, about 30 seconds. Add the paprika, cumin, coriander, and cayenne; stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the wine and clams. Cover and steam, shaking the pot occasionally, until the clams open, about 5 minutes (discard any that don’t open).

Add 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice to the pot and season to taste with salt. Divide the clams between 2 bowls and pour the liquid over them. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve.

Manila Clams with North African Spices

The distinctive flavors in this dish were inspired by the Moroccan marinade called charmoula. Littleneck clams can be substituted for Manila clams but will take a little longer to cook.
  • 2 Tbs. olive oil
  • 2 medium shallots, thinly sliced
  • 1 tsp. sweet smoked paprika
  • 1 tsp. ground cumin
  • 1 tsp. ground coriander
  • A generous 1/8 tsp. cayenne
  • 2/3 cup dry white wine
  • 2 lb. Manila clams, well rinsed
  • 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
  • Kosher salt
  • 3 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Heat the oil in a 5- to 6-quart heavy-duty pot over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring, until they begin to soften, about 30 seconds. Add the paprika, cumin, coriander, and cayenne; stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the wine and clams. Cover and steam, shaking the pot occasionally, until the clams open, about 5 minutes (discard any that don’t open).

Add 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice to the pot and season to taste with salt. Divide the clams between 2 bowls and pour the liquid over them. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve.

Shellfish with Fennel, Escarole, and Kale

Your Christmas Eve meal should be festive, but not so labor-intensive you spend all your time in the kitchen instead of visiting with family and friends. This simple but indulgent mixed shellfish dish from Michelle Bernstein of Michy's, in Miami, is great on its own with a crusty bread to sop up the sauce, or as part of an authentic Italian holiday feast. 
  • 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  • 2 Tbs. olive oil
  • 12 grape tomatoes
  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced fennel
  • 3 medium cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  • 1 cup thinly sliced escarole leaves
  • 1 Tbs. amontillado sherry
  • 1 cup fish broth or bottled clam juice
  • 16 littleneck clams, scrubbed
  • 16 mussels, debearded and scrubbed
  • 6-1/2 oz. (1 cup) medium shrimp (41 to 50 per lb.; preferably wild), peeled and deveined, with tails left intact
  • 1 cup thinly sliced kale leaves
  • 1/8 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  • 1/4 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley; more for garnish
  • 1/2 tsp. fresh rosemary, minced
  • Finely grated zest of half a lemon (2 tsp.)
  • 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a small saucepan, heat the butter over medium heat until it turns golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour into a small bowl and set aside.


In a 12-inch skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the tomatoes and cook until they start to blister, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the fennel and garlic. Cook, shaking the pan, until the garlic becomes golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the escarole and stir for 1 minute. Add the sherry, raise the heat to high, and cook until it evaporates, about 30 seconds. Add the fish broth and boil until it reduces slightly, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the clams, cover, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the mussels, cover, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the shrimp, cover, and cook for 1 minute. With a slotted spoon, transfer the open shellfish and shrimp to a large bowl and cover loosely with foil. Toss any that do not open.


Stir the kale and pepper flakes into the broth and cook until the kale wilts, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and add the parsley and rosemary. Pour in the browned butter. Add the lemon zest and juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Distribute the broth, vegetables, and seafood among 4 wide, deep bowls. Garnish with parsley.

Wednesday, November 13, 2013

Quick Clam Chowder with Bacon, Tomatoes & Bell Peppers

  • 2 oz. bacon (1 to 3 slices depending on thickness), cut into 1/2-inch pieces
  • 1 medium onion, diced
  • 1/2 large red bell pepper, diced
  • 3 Tbs. all-purpose flour
  • 4 cans (6-1/2 oz. each) minced clams, clams and juice separated (about 1-1/2 cups minced clams and 2-1/4 cups juice)
  • 1 bottle (8 oz.) clam juice
  • 1 can (14-1/2 oz.) diced tomatoes, with their liquid
  • 3/4 lb. boiling potatoes (about 3 small potatoes), cut into medium dice
  • 1/4 tsp. dried thyme
  • 2 Tbs. minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a Dutch oven or a large saucepan, fry the bacon over medium heat until the fat renders and the bacon crisps, about 7 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a small bowl; set aside.

Add the onion and bell pepper to the bacon drippings; sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the flour and stir until lightly colored, about 1 minute. Gradually whisk in the clam juice (from the cans and the bottle) and 1/2 cup water and then add the tomatoes, potatoes, and thyme.

Simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes. Add the clams and parsley, season to taste with salt and pepper; and bring to a simmer. Remove the pot from the heat, ladle the chowder into bowls, sprinkle with the reserved bacon, and serve.

Cioppino

For the garlic oil and garlic chips:
  • 4 large cloves garlic
  • 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the shellfish stock:
  • 1 lb. large shrimp (16-20 count)
  • 6-1/2 cups homemade or low-salt chicken broth
For the cioppino broth:
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 3 cups coarsely chopped yellow onion (about 2  medium)
  • 1 cup coarsely chopped carrot (about 2  medium)
  • 2/3 cup coarsely chopped celery or fennel (about 2  medium ribs celery or 1/4 medium fennel bulb)
  • 3 Tbs. coarsely chopped garlic (5 to 6 large cloves)
  • 6 cups canned whole peeled tomatoes, broken up, with their juices, or diced tomatoes with their juices (2 28-oz. cans)
  • 2-1/2 cups (3/4 bottle) medium-bodied red wine, such as Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, or Sangiovese
  • 6 cups Shellfish Stock (above)
  • 3 large bay leaves
  • 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil (or 1 Tbs. dried)
  • 1 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh oregano (or 1 tsp. dried)
  • 2 tsp. fennel seeds
  • 1/2 tsp. crushed red chile flakes; more to taste
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
For finishing the stew:
  • 8 3/4-inch-thick slices sourdough bread
  • Garlic Oil (above)
  • Cioppino Broth (above)
  • 1 to 1-1/2 lb. small hardshell clams, such as mahogany or cherrystones, scrubbed, or 1 whole Dungeness crab (about 2 lb.), cleaned and cut into sections (have the fishmonger do this)
  • 1 to 1-1/2 lb. fresh mussels (18 to 24), scrubbed and debearded
  • 2-1/2 lb. fillets of halibut, monkfish, or other firm-fleshed white fish, cut into 1-inch cubes
  • Reserved peeled shrimp from above
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • Garlic Chips (above) for garnish

Up to a day ahead:

Make the garlic oil and garlic chips: Cut the garlic cloves into 1/8-inch slices, put them in a small saucepan with the oil, and season with salt and pepper. Cook over low to medium-low heat until the garlic turns light golden brown, 15 to 20  min., adjusting the heat as needed to keep the garlic bubbling gently as it cooks. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Strain, reserving both the oil and the garlic chips separately. Reserve the garlic chips for garnish (don’t leave them at room temperature for more than a day or they’ll get soggy). Refrigerate the oil in a clean, sealed container. (You’ll use the oil for the sourdough croutons; use any leftover oil for vinaigrettes, roasted vege- tables, pasta, or roast chicken.)

Make an easy shellfish stock: Peel the shrimp, reserving the shells. (Refrigerate the shelled shrimp to use later in the stew.) Simmer the shells in the chicken broth for 5  min., covered. Strain and refrigerate until ready to use.

Make the broth: Heat the olive oil in an 8-quart or larger pot over medium heat. Add the onions, carrot, celery of fennel, and chopped garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are lightly browned, 15 to 20  min. Add the tomatoes with their juices, the wine, shellfish stock, bay leaves, basil, oregano, fennel seeds, chile flakes, 1 tsp. salt, and several grinds of pepper. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer and cook for about 20 min. Strain through a medium sieve, pressing on the solids in the sieve. Discard the contents of the sieve. Rinse the pot and return the broth to the pot. Boil the broth until reduced to 8 cups. (If you over-reduce the broth, just add water to compensate.) Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed, remembering that the fish will add some saltiness to the stew. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Cioppino Recipe
Half an hour before serving:

Make the toast and cook the shellfish: Position a rack directly under the broiler and heat the broiler. Brush the bread on both sides with the reserved garlic oil. Put the bread on a baking sheet (or directly on the rack) and toast on both sides. While you toast the bread, return the broth to a simmer over medium-high to high  heat.

When each batch of seafood is added, it will cause the temperature of the broth to plunge, so you might need to raise and lower the heat to maintain a simmer. If using clams, start by adding them to the broth and simmer until they open, 3 to 5 min. Add the mussels and crab, if using, and simmer until the mussels have opened, 2 to 3 min. Add the fish and shrimp. Stir carefully with a slotted spoon to get all the fish and shrimp into the broth, but try not to break the pieces up. Cover and cook until the fish is just barely cooked through, another 3  to 5 min., keeping in mind that the fish will continue to cook a little in the time it takes to dish out the servings.

Cioppino Recipe

Assemble the stew: Set a piece of toasted sourdough in the bottom of each warm bowl and evenly portion the seafood into the bowls (be sure to discard any unopened clams or mussels). Ladle the broth on top.

Cioppino Recipe

Garnish and serve: Sprinkle the chopped parsley and garlic chips over all and serve immediately.

Cioppino Recipe

Clams with Basil Broth

Quick and tasty—but rich and seemingly indulgent as well—these tender steamed clams in an aromatic white wine broth give an ordinary weeknight meal weekend appeal. 
  • 4 lb. littleneck clams
  • 3/4 cup finely diced yellow onion
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine
  • 1-1/2 tsp. minced garlic
  • 2 Tbs. chopped fresh basil
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Scrub the clams with a brush under cold water to remove any sand; rinse well. Discard any with cracked shells or open shells that don’t close when tapped firmly against the counter.

In a 5- to 6-quart pot, combine the onion, wine, garlic, and 1 cup water; bring to a boil over high heat. Add the clams, cover, and steam until they open, about 5 minutes—begin checking the clams early to avoid overcooking.

Transfer the clams to serving bowls, discarding any that don’t open. Stir the basil into the cooking liquid, season to taste with salt and pepper, and pour over the clams. Serve immediately.

Spicy Clams & Sausage in Marinara

Here, succulent clams pair with hot Italian sausage and an easy make-and-freeze marinara sauce that’s sure to become your go-to red sauce for nights when you want to pull together an authentic Italian meal in no time.
  • 4 dozen hard-shelled clams, about 2 inches wide (littlenecks are good)
  • 2 Tbs. olive oil; more for the bread
  • 8 large cloves garlic, minced; plus 1 clove sliced in half for the bread
  • 1/4 tsp. red chile flakes
  • 2 tsp. fennel seeds
  • 1/4 lb. hot Italian sausage (casings removed), broken into pieces
  • 3/4 cup dry white wine
  • 2 cups Marinara Sauce
  • 8 slices French or Italian bread, 1/2 inch thick
  • 3 Tbs. minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

Cover the clams with cold water and use a stiff brush to scrub the shells; discard any clams that are open and won’t close when thumped against another clam. Lift the clams out of the water, discard the water and repeat washing two or three times, until no sand remains in the water.

Heat the oil in a large (5-quart) pot over medium-low heat. Add the minced garlic, red chile flakes, and fennel and cook, stirring often, until the garlic is translucent, about 5 minutes. Increase the heat to medium; add the sausage and cook until the outside is no longer pink, about 2 minutes. Increase the heat to medium high, pour in the wine, and boil until it has reduced to about 3 Tbs., about 7 minutes. Stir in the marinara and bring to a quick boil. Put the clams in the pan, cover, and cook until they’ve opened, about 5 minutes; check often to avoid overcooking.

Meanwhile, toast the bread. Rub each toasted slice with the cut side of the garlic clove and brush with olive oil.

Serve the clams in wide bowls with the parsley sprinkled on top and the toast tucked into the sides.  

Linguine with Clam Sauce

Linguine with clam sauce should be packed with flavor: nicely garlicky and a little spicy. Most of all it should taste of fresh, delicious clams with the unmistakable tang of the sea. Fresh, in-the-shell clams are the key to getting this true clam flavor, and tiny littlenecks are the tenderest. 
  • 24 littleneck clams
  • 6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  • 1/3 cup dry white wine
  • 5 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus a few whole leaves for garnish
  • 3 large cloves garlic, minced
  • Kosher salt
  • 8 oz. linguine or spaghettini (I like De Cecco, Due Pastori, and Rustichella d’Abruzzo brands)
  • Freshly ground black pepper

Scrub the clams under cold water and set aside. In a heavy 3-qt. saucepan, heat 3 Tbs. of the oil over medium heat. Add the pepper flakes and cook briefly to infuse the oil, about 20 seconds. Immediately add the wine, 2 Tbs. of the chopped parsley, and half of the minced garlic. Cook for 20 seconds and add the clams.

Cover and cook over medium-high heat, checking every 2 minutes and removing each clam as it opens. It will take 5 to 6 minutes total for all the clams to open. Transfer the clams to a cutting board and reserve the broth. Remove the clams from the shells and cut them in half, or quarters if they’re large. Return the clams to the broth. Discard the shells.

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook until it’s almost al dente, 6 to 9 minutes. Don’t overcook.

While the pasta is cooking, heat the remaining 3 Tbs. olive oil in a 10- or 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the remaining 3 Tbs. chopped parsley and the rest of the garlic and cook until the garlic is just soft, about 1 minute. Set the skillet aside.

When the pasta is done, reserve about 1/4 cup of the pasta cooking water and then drain the pasta. Add the pasta, the clams, and the broth the clams were cooked in to the skillet. Return to low heat, toss the pasta in the sauce, and simmer for another minute to finish cooking it, adding a little of the pasta water if you prefer a wetter dish.

Taste for salt and add a large grind of black pepper. Serve immediately, garnished with the parsley leaves.

Tuesday, November 12, 2013

Shellfish with Fennel, Escarole, and Kale

Your Christmas Eve meal should be festive, but not so labor-intensive you spend all your time in the kitchen instead of visiting with family and friends. This simple but indulgent mixed shellfish dish from Michelle Bernstein of Michy's, in Miami, is great on its own with a crusty bread to sop up the sauce, or as part of an authentic Italian holiday feast. 
  • 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  • 2 Tbs. olive oil
  • 12 grape tomatoes
  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced fennel
  • 3 medium cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  • 1 cup thinly sliced escarole leaves
  • 1 Tbs. amontillado sherry
  • 1 cup fish broth or bottled clam juice
  • 16 littleneck clams, scrubbed
  • 16 mussels, debearded and scrubbed
  • 6-1/2 oz. (1 cup) medium shrimp (41 to 50 per lb.; preferably wild), peeled and deveined, with tails left intact
  • 1 cup thinly sliced kale leaves
  • 1/8 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  • 1/4 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley; more for garnish
  • 1/2 tsp. fresh rosemary, minced
  • Finely grated zest of half a lemon (2 tsp.)
  • 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a small saucepan, heat the butter over medium heat until it turns golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour into a small bowl and set aside.


In a 12-inch skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the tomatoes and cook until they start to blister, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the fennel and garlic. Cook, shaking the pan, until the garlic becomes golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the escarole and stir for 1 minute. Add the sherry, raise the heat to high, and cook until it evaporates, about 30 seconds. Add the fish broth and boil until it reduces slightly, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the clams, cover, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the mussels, cover, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the shrimp, cover, and cook for 1 minute. With a slotted spoon, transfer the open shellfish and shrimp to a large bowl and cover loosely with foil. Toss any that do not open.


Stir the kale and pepper flakes into the broth and cook until the kale wilts, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and add the parsley and rosemary. Pour in the browned butter. Add the lemon zest and juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Distribute the broth, vegetables, and seafood among 4 wide, deep bowls. Garnish with parsley.

Linguine with Clam Sauce

Linguine with clam sauce should be packed with flavor: nicely garlicky and a little spicy. Most of all it should taste of fresh, delicious clams with the unmistakable tang of the sea. Fresh, in-the-shell clams are the key to getting this true clam flavor, and tiny littlenecks are the tenderest. 
  • 24 littleneck clams
  • 6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  • 1/3 cup dry white wine
  • 5 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus a few whole leaves for garnish
  • 3 large cloves garlic, minced
  • Kosher salt
  • 8 oz. linguine or spaghettini (I like De Cecco, Due Pastori, and Rustichella d’Abruzzo brands)
  • Freshly ground black pepper

Scrub the clams under cold water and set aside. In a heavy 3-qt. saucepan, heat 3 Tbs. of the oil over medium heat. Add the pepper flakes and cook briefly to infuse the oil, about 20 seconds. Immediately add the wine, 2 Tbs. of the chopped parsley, and half of the minced garlic. Cook for 20 seconds and add the clams.

Cover and cook over medium-high heat, checking every 2 minutes and removing each clam as it opens. It will take 5 to 6 minutes total for all the clams to open. Transfer the clams to a cutting board and reserve the broth. Remove the clams from the shells and cut them in half, or quarters if they’re large. Return the clams to the broth. Discard the shells.

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook until it’s almost al dente, 6 to 9 minutes. Don’t overcook.

While the pasta is cooking, heat the remaining 3 Tbs. olive oil in a 10- or 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the remaining 3 Tbs. chopped parsley and the rest of the garlic and cook until the garlic is just soft, about 1 minute. Set the skillet aside.

When the pasta is done, reserve about 1/4 cup of the pasta cooking water and then drain the pasta. Add the pasta, the clams, and the broth the clams were cooked in to the skillet. Return to low heat, toss the pasta in the sauce, and simmer for another minute to finish cooking it, adding a little of the pasta water if you prefer a wetter dish.

Taste for salt and add a large grind of black pepper. Serve immediately, garnished with the parsley leaves.

Shellfish with Fennel, Escarole, and Kale

Your Christmas Eve meal should be festive, but not so labor-intensive you spend all your time in the kitchen instead of visiting with family and friends. This simple but indulgent mixed shellfish dish from Michelle Bernstein of Michy's, in Miami, is great on its own with a crusty bread to sop up the sauce, or as part of an authentic Italian holiday feast. 
  • 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  • 2 Tbs. olive oil
  • 12 grape tomatoes
  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced fennel
  • 3 medium cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  • 1 cup thinly sliced escarole leaves
  • 1 Tbs. amontillado sherry
  • 1 cup fish broth or bottled clam juice
  • 16 littleneck clams, scrubbed
  • 16 mussels, debearded and scrubbed
  • 6-1/2 oz. (1 cup) medium shrimp (41 to 50 per lb.; preferably wild), peeled and deveined, with tails left intact
  • 1 cup thinly sliced kale leaves
  • 1/8 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  • 1/4 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley; more for garnish
  • 1/2 tsp. fresh rosemary, minced
  • Finely grated zest of half a lemon (2 tsp.)
  • 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a small saucepan, heat the butter over medium heat until it turns golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour into a small bowl and set aside.


In a 12-inch skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the tomatoes and cook until they start to blister, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the fennel and garlic. Cook, shaking the pan, until the garlic becomes golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the escarole and stir for 1 minute. Add the sherry, raise the heat to high, and cook until it evaporates, about 30 seconds. Add the fish broth and boil until it reduces slightly, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the clams, cover, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the mussels, cover, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the shrimp, cover, and cook for 1 minute. With a slotted spoon, transfer the open shellfish and shrimp to a large bowl and cover loosely with foil. Toss any that do not open.


Stir the kale and pepper flakes into the broth and cook until the kale wilts, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and add the parsley and rosemary. Pour in the browned butter. Add the lemon zest and juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Distribute the broth, vegetables, and seafood among 4 wide, deep bowls. Garnish with parsley.

Pasta with Clams, Broccoli Raab, and Chile

Sweet Manila clams balance slightly bitter broccoli raab in this satisfying dish. Boiling the pasta and broccoli raab together saves time and makes the pasta itself more flavorful.
  • 12 oz. thin spaghetti
  • 1 large bunch broccoli raab, trimmed and sliced crosswise into 1-in. pieces
  • 5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  • 4 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
  • 1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  • 1/2 cup bottled clam juice
  • 3 lb. Manila clams, well-rinsed
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

In an 8-quart pot, bring about 5-1/2 quarts of well-salted water to a boil. Add the spaghetti to the boiling water and cook until almost tender, about 3 minutes. Add the broccoli raab and cook until the pasta is al dente and the broccoli raab is crisp-tender, about 2 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a heavy-duty 6-quart pot, heat 2 Tbs. of the oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the clam juice and clams. Cover and cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the clams open, about 5 minutes (discard any that don’t open).

Reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water, drain the pasta and broccoli raab and add them to the clam pot. Toss well and season to taste with salt and pepper. Drizzle with the remaining 3 Tbs. of oil and add pasta water to moisten, if needed. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve.

New England Clam Chowder

Creamy, hearty New England clam chowder is by far the most popular chowder style (compared to Manhattan or Rhode Island versions). Chowder made with milk or cream began appearing in the early 1800s, and New Englanders claimed it as their own in the 1900s. Many versions use a flour and butter roux to thicken the soup. The roux is necessary if you’re cooking with milk; otherwise, it curdles when boiled. This chowder gets its thick texture from a combination of heavy cream and puréed potatoes. You can crush some of the potatoes against the side of the pot (instead of puréeing the vegetables) for a thinner but equally delicious version.
  • 3 oz. thick-cut bacon (2 to 3 slices), cut crosswise into 1/4-inch strips
  • 1-1/2 oz. unsalted butter (3 Tbs.)
  • 1 large yellow onion, cut into small dice (about 2 cups)
  • 4 tender inner celery stalks, cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 1 cup)
  • 4 cups diluted clam broth, plus the reserved clam meat (1-1/2 to 2 cups), finely chopped
  • 2 lb. large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 4-1/2 ­cups)
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • 3 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • Kosher salt

Cook the bacon in a wide heavy-duty 4- to 5-quart pot or Dutch oven over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until just beginning to turn crisp and golden, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat. Pour off and discard the bacon fat, leaving the bacon in the pot. Add the butter and onion and cook over low heat, covered, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened but not colored, about 8 minutes. Add the celery and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until just softened, about 5 minutes. Add the clam broth, potatoes, bay leaves, thyme, and 1 tsp. pepper. Bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, partially covered, until the potatoes are tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Discard the bay leaves.

Purée 1 ­cup of the soup solids with just enough liquid to cover in a food processor or blender, and add it back to the soup. Add the cream and bring to a boil.

Remove the soup from the heat, wait until it stops simmering (this may take a minute if you’re using a Dutch oven), and stir in the clams and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Creamy Seafood Chowder with Bacon, Thyme & Jalapeño

The cream in the soup tempers most of the jalapeño’s heat, but you can still taste its bright, fresh flavor.
  • 4 slices bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch strips
  • 1 medium shallot, minced
  • 1 large jalapeño, seeded and very finely chopped (about 2 Tbs.)
  • 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
  • 2 6-1/2-oz. cans chopped clams, clams and juice separated (about 1 cup juice)
  • 2 8-oz. bottles clam juice
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • 8 to 10 oz. unpeeled red potatoes (about 2 medium), scrubbed and cut into 1/2-inch dice
  • 1/2 tsp. dried thyme
  • 3/4 lb. skinless haddock or cod fillets
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a heavy 4-qt. saucepan or Dutch oven, cook the bacon over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned and crisp, about 8 min. Transfer the bacon to a small dish lined with paper towels, leaving the fat behind in the pan.

Add the shallots and 1 Tbs. of the jalapeño to the bacon fat and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the shallots are softened, about 2 min. Add the flour and cook, stirring, for 1 min. Gradually stir in all the clam juice (from the cans and the bottles). Add the cream, potatoes, and thyme, and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat as necessary and continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are tender, about 10 min. Add the whole fish fillets and cook for 3 min. Stir in the clams and continue stirring until the fish has broken into chunks. Cook until the fish is cooked through and the clams are heated, about another 2 min.

Season the soup to taste with salt and pepper. Portion into warm soup bowls and sprinkle each serving with the reserved bacon and the remaining jalapeño.

Shellfish with Fennel, Escarole, and Kale

Your Christmas Eve meal should be festive, but not so labor-intensive you spend all your time in the kitchen instead of visiting with family and friends. This simple but indulgent mixed shellfish dish from Michelle Bernstein of Michy's, in Miami, is great on its own with a crusty bread to sop up the sauce, or as part of an authentic Italian holiday feast. 
  • 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  • 2 Tbs. olive oil
  • 12 grape tomatoes
  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced fennel
  • 3 medium cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  • 1 cup thinly sliced escarole leaves
  • 1 Tbs. amontillado sherry
  • 1 cup fish broth or bottled clam juice
  • 16 littleneck clams, scrubbed
  • 16 mussels, debearded and scrubbed
  • 6-1/2 oz. (1 cup) medium shrimp (41 to 50 per lb.; preferably wild), peeled and deveined, with tails left intact
  • 1 cup thinly sliced kale leaves
  • 1/8 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  • 1/4 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley; more for garnish
  • 1/2 tsp. fresh rosemary, minced
  • Finely grated zest of half a lemon (2 tsp.)
  • 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a small saucepan, heat the butter over medium heat until it turns golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour into a small bowl and set aside.


In a 12-inch skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the tomatoes and cook until they start to blister, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the fennel and garlic. Cook, shaking the pan, until the garlic becomes golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the escarole and stir for 1 minute. Add the sherry, raise the heat to high, and cook until it evaporates, about 30 seconds. Add the fish broth and boil until it reduces slightly, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the clams, cover, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the mussels, cover, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the shrimp, cover, and cook for 1 minute. With a slotted spoon, transfer the open shellfish and shrimp to a large bowl and cover loosely with foil. Toss any that do not open.


Stir the kale and pepper flakes into the broth and cook until the kale wilts, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and add the parsley and rosemary. Pour in the browned butter. Add the lemon zest and juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Distribute the broth, vegetables, and seafood among 4 wide, deep bowls. Garnish with parsley.

Bouillabaisse

For this classic seafood stew you can use whatever combination of fish and shellfish you like, provided you don’t include oily fish such as salmon, mackerel, or tuna.
  • 4 lb. mixed filleted, skinned fish, such as Pacific rockfish, monkfish, sea bass, or halibut   
  • Salt (use sea salt if possible)
  • 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 large leeks, chopped
  • 1 large bulb fennel, chopped
  • 2 large potatoes, peeled and chopped
  • Pinch saffron (about 20 threads)
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 1 tsp. dried thyme
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 8 large ripe tomatoes (or one 28-oz. can tomatoes), peeled, seeded, and chopped; juice strained and reserved
  • 4 quarts Fish Stock
  • 1 lb. small clams, rinsed
  • 1 lb. small mussels, scrubbed and rinsed 
  • 3/4 lb. thin-fleshed squid, cleaned and cut into ringlets
  • 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • 10 slices sourdough bread, toasted or grilled and rubbed with garlic
  • 1 recipe Rouille 

Locate the bones running vertically down the rockfish and other fish and make a cut on either side of the bones and take them out; use them for the stock, if you like. Cut all the fish fillets into 2- to 3-inch pieces, keeping the different varieties of fish separate. Sprinkle them with salt and toss them gently to distribute the salt; set aside.

Warm 1/4 cup of the olive oil in a large soup pot; add the leeks, fennel, potatoes, saffron, bay leaves, thyme, 1 Tbs. salt, and a little freshly ground pepper. Stir the mixture well and cook slowly over medium-low heat until the leeks are completely soft but not browned and the potatoes are tender, about 30 minutes. Add the tomatoes, strained tomato juice, and fish stock. Taste and add more salt as needed. Bring to a rapid simmer.

Add the fish and the remaining 1/4 cup olive oil to the simmering broth, raise the heat to high, and boil for about 10 minutes. Next add the clams and mussels and cook for another 5 minutes. In the last minute, add the squid and parsley. Taste and add salt if needed. Remove the soup from the heat, cover, and let stand for 15 minutes.

Put a slice of the toasted garlic bread in the bottom of wide-rimmed serving bowls and ladle the soup on top. Serve with a spoonful of the rouille.