Chicken & Shrimp Ragoût with Curry Spices

Although shrimp isn’t a strictly traditional ingredient, it dresses up this casual stew, making it suitable for company.

• 3 Tbs. peanut or vegetable oil
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2-1/4 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed and cut into 1-inch chunks
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 ribs celery, cut into 1/2-inch dice (1 cup)
• 1 green bell pepper, cut into 1/2-inch dice (1 cup)
• 1 red bell pepper, cut into 1/2-inch dice (1 cup)
• 1 small onion, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice (1 cup)
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 Tbs. homemade Curry Spice Blend or store-bought hot (Madras) curry powder
• 1 tsp. dried thyme
• 28-oz. can plum tomatoes, drained and coarsely chopped; with their juices
• 2 cups homemade or low-salt chicken broth
• 1/2 cup dried currants
• 25 to 30 jumbo shrimp (21-25 count; about 1/4 pounds), peeled and deveined
• Toasted Almond Rice for serving
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Up to two days ahead:

Heat 1 Tbs. each of the oil and butter over medium-high heat in a large (at least 6-quart) Dutch oven. Season the chicken liberally with salt and pepper. Add half of the chicken pieces and sear until golden brown on two sides, about 6 min. For best browning, stir infrequently and only to flip the chicken. Repeat with the remaining chicken, reducing the heat if the bottom of the pan starts to burn. Set all the chicken aside.

Lower the heat under the Dutch oven to medium and add another 1 Tbs. each of oil and butter. When hot, add the celery, peppers, and onion. Sauté until the vegetables are softened and lightly browned, 6 to 8 min. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for another 2 minutes. Push the vegetables to one side of the pan and add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil. Add the curry spice blend, thyme, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. black pepper to the oil. Cook, stirring, for 1 min. Raise the heat, add the tomatoes and their juices, and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring, until the tomatoes begin to break apart and the juices thicken slightly, about 5 min. Stir in the chicken broth and currants; return the mixture to a boil. Adjust the heat to maintain a vigorous simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 15 min.

Return the chicken and any accumulated juices to the pot; simmer for about 10 min. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (If you’re working ahead, the stew may now be cooled and refrigerated.)

Just before serving:

Bring the stew to a simmer over very low heat. Add the shrimp and simmer, stirring, until they just turn opaque and are cooked through, 3 to 4 min. Divide the rice among eight shallow soup bowls and spoon the stew on top. Sprinkle each serving with the chopped parsley and serve.

Cane Vinegar Chicken Stew with Pearl Onions, Oranges, and Spinach

Hugh Acheson likes to combine classic French techniques with all things southern. Cane vinegar, which is made from sugar cane, is one of his favorite pantry ingredients for adding a malty, sweet-and-sour tang. If you can’t find cane vinegar, you can substitute malt or cider vinegar.

• 8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (2-1/2 to 3 lb. total)
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 3/4 lb. fresh pearl onions, peeled 
• 6 medium cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 1/2 tsp. smoked sweet paprika (pimentón)
• 1-1/2 cups cane vinegar
• 1-1/2 cups lower-salt chicken broth
• 4 large navel oranges
• 6 oz. fresh spinach, stemmed (4 cups)
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh mint

Season the chicken on both sides with 1-1/2 tsp. salt and 1/2 tsp. pepper.


Melt the butter in an 8-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot over medium heat. Working in 2 batches, cook the thighs until golden on both sides, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate.


Add the onions, garlic, and paprika to the pot and cook until the onions are soft, about 5 minutes. Add the vinegar and use a wooden spoon to scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium high and simmer until the vinegar is reduced by half, 7 to 10 minutes. Increase the heat to high and add the broth. When the liquid comes to a boil, add the chicken to the pot skin side up, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the chicken is cooked through and tender, about 30 minutes.


Meanwhile, slice the peel off the oranges. Working over a medium bowl to catch the juice, cut the segments free from the membranes. Squeeze any remaining juice from the membranes into the bowl.


When the chicken is done, add the orange segments and juice, spinach, and mint to the pot, gently stirring them into the sauce. Divide the chicken and sauce among 4 bowls. Serve immediately.

Moroccan Vegetable Ragoût

• 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced (about 1-1/4 cups)
• 1 3- to 4-inch cinnamon stick
• 1-1/2 tsp. ground cumin
• 2 cups peeled and medium diced (1/2-inch) sweet potatoes (about 3/4 lb.)
• 1 14- to 16-oz. can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
• 1 14-1/2-oz. can diced tomatoes; with their juices
• 1/2 cup pitted green Greek or Italian olives
• 6 Tbs. orange juice, preferably fresh
• 1-1/2 tsp. honey
• 2 cups lightly packed very coarsely chopped kale leaves (from about 1/2 lb. kale)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Tip:

If you don't have an olive-pitting tool, you can use a small skillet or saucepan. Apply pressure with the bottom of the pan until the olives split, exposing the pits enough that they can be plucked away by hand.

Heat the oil in a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until soft and lightly browned, about 5 min. Add the cinnamon stick and cumin and cook until very fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the sweet potatoes, chickpeas, tomatoes and their juices, olives, orange juice, honey, and 1 cup water; bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, until the sweet potatoes are barely tender, about 15 min. Stir in the kale. Cover and continue cooking until wilted and softened, about another 10 min. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Eggplant Ragoût with Tomatoes, Peppers & Chickpeas

Broiling the eggplant first helps it keep its shape in the stew.

• 1-1/2 lb. eggplant, preferably plump round fruits
• 2 Tbs. olive oil; more for brushing the eggplant
• 1 large red onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice
• 1 large bell pepper, red or yellow, cored, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 2 plump cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 2 tsp. paprika
• 1 tsp. ground cumin
• Generous pinch cayenne
• 2 Tbs. tomato paste
• 1-1/4 cups water
• 5 plum tomatoes, peeled, quartered lengthwise, and seeded
• 15-oz. can chickpeas (preferably organic), rinsed and drained
• 1 tsp. salt; more to taste
• 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Heat the broiler. Cut the eggplant crosswise into 3/4-inch rounds and brush both sides with olive oil. Broil until light gold on each side, about 2 min. per side. Let cool and cut into 1-inch pieces. In a medium Dutch oven, heat the 2 Tbs. olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and bell pepper; sauté until the onion is lightly browned, 12 to 15 min. During the last few minutes of browning, add the garlic, paprika, cumin, and cayenne. Stir in the tomato paste and cook, stirring, for 1 min. Stir in 1/4 cup of the water and boil, using a wooden spoon to scrape up the juices from the bottom of the pan. Add the tomatoes, eggplant, chickpeas, remaining 1 cup water and salt. Bring to a boil and then simmer, covered, until the vegetables are quite tender, about 25 min., stirring once or twice. Stir in the parsley, adjust the seasonings, and serve.

Moroccan Lamb Stew

Green olives and preserved lemon give this Moroccan-influenced stew a tart-salty counterpoint to the sweet chunks of butternut squash.

• 3 lb. boneless lamb shoulder or leg, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces
• 3 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
• 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 1 Tbs. tomato paste
• 1 tsp. caraway seeds
• 1/4 tsp. cayenne
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 2-1/2 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought beef broth
• 2 cups onion wedges (3/4-inch wedges)
• 2 cups diced butternut squash (1-inch dice)
• 1 15-oz. can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
• 1/2 cup halved pitted green olives
• 1/4 cup chopped preserved lemon
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Spread the lamb on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.

In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat 3 Tbs. oil over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of lamb with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the lamb to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the lamb, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the lamb is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.

Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the onion, celery, and carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in the garlic, tomato paste, caraway, and cayenne and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.

Add the wine, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the beef broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.

Return the lamb to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.

After 1 hour of stewing, add the onion wedges to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, return to the oven. After another 30 minutes, add the squash. Cover with the parchment and lid, return the pot to the oven, and cook until the lamb is fork-tender, 3/4 to 1-1/4 hours more. (Shoulder cuts will take longer than leg cuts.)

Stir in the chickpeas. Return to the oven for 5 minutes. Stir in the olives, preserved lemon, and parsley. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Lamb and Prune Stew

Prunes and carrots lend sweetness to this stew, enhanced by warm spices like ginger, cinnamon, and turmeric which make it reminiscent of North African tagines.

• 3 lb. boneless lamb shoulder or leg, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces
• 3 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
• 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
• 1 to 2 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
• 1 tsp. ground cumin
• 1 tsp. ground turmeric
• 1 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1 cup hard cider
• 2-1/2 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought beef broth
• 2-1/2 cups peeled pearl onions
• 2-1/2 cups 1-inch carrot pieces
• 1 cup prunes, cut into bite-size pieces
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice

Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Spread the lamb on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.

In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat the oil over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of the lamb with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the lamb to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the lamb, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the lamb is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.

Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the yellow onion, celery, and coarsely chopped carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in the ginger, cumin, turmeric, and cinnamon and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.

Add the cider, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the beef broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.

Return the lamb to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.

After 1 hour of stewing, add the pearl onions, carrot pieces, and prunes to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, and cook until the lamb is fork-tender, 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 hours more (shoulder cuts will take longer than leg cuts).

Stir in the parsley and lemon juice. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Classic Bouillabaisse

This hearty fish stew is a treasure from the South of France. It takes an afternoon to make, but it's a showstopping all-in-one meal that's absolutely worth the effort.

For the croutons

• 2 slender baguettes, sliced into forty 1/2-inch-thick rounds (reserve remaining baguette for rouille)

For the fish broth

• 36 mussels, debearded and scrubbed
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 large cloves garlic, very roughly chopped
• 2 medium yellow onions, diced
• 3 medium fennel bulbs with about 5 inches of stems (about 1-1/2 lb. each), diced
• 2 medium leeks, diced and washed well
• 1 medium celery stalk, sliced
• 3-1/2 lb. fish skeletons, heads, and trimmings (from firm white fish), gills removed
• 6 medium ripe tomatoes, diced
• 4 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 3 large sprigs fresh thyme
• 2 dried bay leaves
• Zest of 1 large orange, white pith removed
• 2 Tbs. pastis, such as Ricard or Pernod
• 2 tsp. fennel seeds
• 1/2 tsp. black peppercorns
• Fine sea salt
• 1/2 tsp. very loosely packed saffron threads

For the fish

• 3-1/2 lb. moderately firm, skin-on, scaled white fish fillets, such as Atlantic pollock, barramundi, black rockfish, black sea bass, halibut, Pacific cod, porgy, sablefish, or striped bass (use 4 types of fish—14 oz. of each)
• 1 Tbs. pastis, such as Ricard or Pernod
• Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the potatoes

• 1-3/4 lb. small white or yellow potatoes (about 8), peeled and sliced into 3/8-inch-thick rounds, ends discarded

For the rouille

• 2 medium cloves garlic, very coarsely chopped
• Fine sea salt
• Cayenne
• 1 cup fresh crustless coarse breadcrumbs (use reserved baguette from croutons)
• 6 Tbs. fish broth (from cooking potatoes)
• 3 slices cooked potato
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

To finish the stew

• Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the croutons

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 450°F. Arrange the baguette rounds on a large rimmed baking sheet and bake until crisp and lightly golden, about 10 minutes. Turn off the oven, open the door partially, and let the croutons cool and finish drying in the oven. Store in an airtight container for up to 1 day.

For the fish broth

Put the mussels and 1 cup of water in a 4- to 5-quart pot. Cover, bring to a boil over high heat, and cook until all the mussels have opened, about 2 minutes. Set a strainer over a small bowl. Shuck the mussels into the strainer, discarding the shells. Press on the mussels to squeeze out any remaining liquid;discard the solids. Strain the mussel-cooking liquid into the bowl and set aside.

Heat the oil in a wide 8- to 10-quart pot over medium heat. Add the garlic and onions, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not colored, about 8 minutes. Add the fennel, leeks, and celery and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until completely soft but not colored, about 20 minutes.

While the vegetables cook, use a chef’s knife or kitchen scissors to cut the fish skeletons into 4- to 5-inch pieces. Add the fish skeletons, heads, and trimmings to the pot, along with the tomatoes, parsley, thyme, bay leaves, orange zest, pastis, fennel seeds, peppercorns, 2 tsp. salt, and the reserved mussel liquid. Add enough cold water to just cover the solids when you press them down gently (about 1 quart). Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat and cook, uncovered, until you can easily break the fish parts with a wooden spoon, about 30 minutes. Break apart as many of the fish parts as you can with the spoon.

Put a food mill over a large bowl and, working in batches, grind the cooked broth ingredients, discarding the solids left in the food mill between batches. Clean the pot and put a fine strainer over it. Working in batches, strain the broth, pushing hard on the solids with a ladle to squeeze out all the liquid, and discarding the solids between batches.

Crumble the saffron into the broth and bring to a boil to infuse the saffron. Turn off the heat and use an immersion blender to emulsify the broth, or whisk vigorously. Season to taste with salt. Set aside. A thin, greasy skin will form on top of the broth as it sits—skim it off before cooking the potatoes.

For the fish

While the broth cooks, cut the fish fillets so you have 8 pieces of each type of fish. Use a scale; each piece should be about 1-3/4 oz. (If you have more than 14 oz. of any type of fish, trim off the thinner parts—the tail pieces and belly flaps—first and add them to the fish broth.) Put the fish in a large baking dish, keeping the same types of fish together (so you can keep track of each type).

Marinate the fish 45 minutes before you plan to finish the stew: Drizzle the fish with the pastis and sprinkle with 1 tsp. salt and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Turn the fish to coat evenly, still keeping the same types of fish together. Let the fish marinate in the refrigerator for 30 minutes; then let sit at room temperature for 15 minutes before cooking.

For the potatoes

Put the potatoes in a 4- to 5-quart pot. Add enough of the fish broth to cover completely, about 3 cups. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat, and simmer until slightly undercooked and still a little firm in the centers, about 8 minutes. Set aside off the heat—the potatoes will finish cooking in the hot broth.

For the rouille

In a mortar, mash the garlic and 1/4 tsp. each salt and cayenne with a pestle. Mash in the breadcrumbs and broth. Mash in the potato. Mash in the oil a little at a time. The rouille should be fairly thick and spreadable. Don’t overmash, or it will get gummy. Season to taste with more salt and cayenne; it should be pleasantly spicy. (Alternatively, mash the garlic and salt to a paste on a cutting board with the side of a chef’s knife. Transfer the paste to a bowl and use a fork to mash in the remaining ingredients. Don’t use a food processor, because it makes a gummy rouille.)

To finish the stew

Warm 8 wide, shallow soup bowls and a sauce pitcher in a low oven. Top 16 of the croutons with a thin layer of the rouille (you won’t use it all). Transfer the remaining rouille and croutons to 2 bowls to pass at the table.

Reheat the potatoes in their broth, but do not boil, or they will break apart. Meanwhile, bring the large pot of fish broth to a brisk simmer over medium-high heat. Use a slotted spatula to divide the potatoes among the warm serving bowls. Add the broth remaining from the potatoes to the large pot of fish broth and return to a brisk simmer.

Add the thicker pieces of fish to the simmering broth and then add the thinner pieces. If possible, try to keep the same types of fish together for easier plating. Poach until the thinner pieces are just cooked through, about 6 minutes.While the fish poaches, the broth should stay at a bare simmer; adjust the heat as necessary. Working quickly, use the slotted spatula to distribute the thinner pieces of fish, skin side up, among the bowls. Check to make sure the thicker pieces are cooked through and distribute them among the bowls. Each serving should get 4 types of fish.

Return the broth to a boil over high heat. Remove from the heat and use an immersion blender or whisk to emulsify the broth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle a generous amount of broth over each serving of fish. Transfer any remaining broth to the warm pitcher.

Nestle 2 rouille-topped croutons in each serving bowl and sprinkle with parsley. Serve immediately, passing the remaining croutons, rouille, and broth at the table.

Cioppino

For the garlic oil and garlic chips:

• 4 large cloves garlic
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the shellfish stock:

• 1 lb. large shrimp (16-20 count)
• 6-1/2 cups homemade or low-salt chicken broth

For the cioppino broth:

• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 3 cups coarsely chopped yellow onion (about 2  medium)
• 1 cup coarsely chopped carrot (about 2  medium)
• 2/3 cup coarsely chopped celery or fennel (about 2  medium ribs celery or 1/4 medium fennel bulb)
• 3 Tbs. coarsely chopped garlic (5 to 6 large cloves)
• 6 cups canned whole peeled tomatoes, broken up, with their juices, or diced tomatoes with their juices (2 28-oz. cans)
• 2-1/2 cups (3/4 bottle) medium-bodied red wine, such as Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, or Sangiovese
• 6 cups Shellfish Stock (above)
• 3 large bay leaves
• 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil (or 1 Tbs. dried)
• 1 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh oregano (or 1 tsp. dried)
• 2 tsp. fennel seeds
• 1/2 tsp. crushed red chile flakes; more to taste
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For finishing the stew:

• 8 3/4-inch-thick slices sourdough bread
• Garlic Oil (above)
• Cioppino Broth (above)
• 1 to 1-1/2 lb. small hardshell clams, such as mahogany or cherrystones, scrubbed, or 1 whole Dungeness crab (about 2 lb.), cleaned and cut into sections (have the fishmonger do this)
• 1 to 1-1/2 lb. fresh mussels (18 to 24), scrubbed and debearded
• 2-1/2 lb. fillets of halibut, monkfish, or other firm-fleshed white fish, cut into 1-inch cubes
• Reserved peeled shrimp from above
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• Garlic Chips (above) for garnish

Up to a day ahead:

Make the garlic oil and garlic chips: Cut the garlic cloves into 1/8-inch slices, put them in a small saucepan with the oil, and season with salt and pepper. Cook over low to medium-low heat until the garlic turns light golden brown, 15 to 20  min., adjusting the heat as needed to keep the garlic bubbling gently as it cooks. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Strain, reserving both the oil and the garlic chips separately. Reserve the garlic chips for garnish (don’t leave them at room temperature for more than a day or they’ll get soggy). Refrigerate the oil in a clean, sealed container. (You’ll use the oil for the sourdough croutons; use any leftover oil for vinaigrettes, roasted vege- tables, pasta, or roast chicken.)

Make an easy shellfish stock: Peel the shrimp, reserving the shells. (Refrigerate the shelled shrimp to use later in the stew.) Simmer the shells in the chicken broth for 5  min., covered. Strain and refrigerate until ready to use.

Make the broth: Heat the olive oil in an 8-quart or larger pot over medium heat. Add the onions, carrot, celery of fennel, and chopped garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are lightly browned, 15 to 20  min. Add the tomatoes with their juices, the wine, shellfish stock, bay leaves, basil, oregano, fennel seeds, chile flakes, 1 tsp. salt, and several grinds of pepper. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer and cook for about 20 min. Strain through a medium sieve, pressing on the solids in the sieve. Discard the contents of the sieve. Rinse the pot and return the broth to the pot. Boil the broth until reduced to 8 cups. (If you over-reduce the broth, just add water to compensate.) Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed, remembering that the fish will add some saltiness to the stew. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Half an hour before serving:

Make the toast and cook the shellfish: Position a rack directly under the broiler and heat the broiler. Brush the bread on both sides with the reserved garlic oil. Put the bread on a baking sheet (or directly on the rack) and toast on both sides. While you toast the bread, return the broth to a simmer over medium-high to high  heat.

When each batch of seafood is added, it will cause the temperature of the broth to plunge, so you might need to raise and lower the heat to maintain a simmer. If using clams, start by adding them to the broth and simmer until they open, 3 to 5 min. Add the mussels and crab, if using, and simmer until the mussels have opened, 2 to 3 min. Add the fish and shrimp. Stir carefully with a slotted spoon to get all the fish and shrimp into the broth, but try not to break the pieces up. Cover and cook until the fish is just barely cooked through, another 3  to 5 min., keeping in mind that the fish will continue to cook a little in the time it takes to dish out the servings.

Assemble the stew: Set a piece of toasted sourdough in the bottom of each warm bowl and evenly portion the seafood into the bowls (be sure to discard any unopened clams or mussels). Ladle the broth on top.

Garnish and serve: Sprinkle the chopped parsley and garlic chips over all and serve immediately.

Mexican-Style Chili

This spicy, smoky beanless chili features pork shoulder stewed with ancho and pasilla chiles. Serve it with soft, fresh tortillas, to offer a counterpoint to the chiles' heat.

• 4 ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
• 4 pasilla chiles, stemmed and seeded
• 1/2 tsp. cumin seeds
• 1/2 tsp. coriander seeds
• 1 Tbs. fresh oregano leaves or 1-1/2 tsp. dried
• 1 can (28 oz.) tomatoes, drained and seeded
• 4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
• 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped
• 2 lb. pork shoulder, trimmed of any fat
• Salt to taste
• 3 Tbs. vegetable oil; more as needed

Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the ancho and pasilla chiles and press them flat with a spatula. Toast the chiles, turning them over, until they're fragrant and their color changes slightly, about 30 seconds. Remove the chiles from the skillet and put them in a bowl. Cover with about 4 cups of boiling water. Weight them with a plate to keep them submerged, if necessary, and soak until tender, about 30 minutes.

Toast the spices and oregano

Meanwhile, heat a small, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the cumin and coriander and toast, giving the pan an occasional shake, until the seeds are fragrant, about 5 minutes. Grind the seeds in a spice grinder or crush them in a mortar and pestle. In the same hot pan, toast the fresh oregano (don't toast dried oregano). Remove the leaves after they've begun to dry out but before they lose all of their green color, about 3 minutes. Set aside.

Reserve 1 cup of the liquid from the soaking chiles and then drain them. Put the chiles and the reserved liquid in a blender. Add the toasted, ground cumin and coriander, the toasted (or dried) oregano, the tomatoes, garlic, and onion. Purée until smooth.

Cut the pork into 1/2-inch cubes, pat it dry, and season it lightly with coarse salt.

In a large, heavy-based skillet, heat 2 Tbs. of the oil until very hot. Brown the pork in the oil in batches (adding more oil to the pan as needed), being careful not to overload the skillet or the pork will stew in its own juices and not brown. Transfer the browned pork to a plate lined with paper towels. Drain off any excess fat from the skillet but leave a light coating on the bottom and don't clean the skillet.

To the hot skillet, add the chile purée carefully; it will splatter while it sizzles. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Add the browned pork, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the meat is very tender, about 1-1/2 hours. Add a little water to the pan if the sauce seems too thick. Season with salt to taste and serve.

Veal Stew with Bacon and Winter Vegetables

This hearty stew is the perfect dinner for a cold winter's night. Bacon adds a touch of smoky flavor to the mild, tender veal.

• 3 lb. boneless veal shoulder or leg, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces
• 2 oz. thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
• 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tsp. minced fresh thyme
• 1 tsp. minced fresh marjoram
• 2 1-inch wide strips orange zest
• 2 dried bay leaves
• 1 cup sweet vermouth
• 2-1/2 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought chicken broth
• 3 cups diced celery root (1-inch dice)
• 3 cups carrot pieces (1-inch pieces)
• 2 Tbs. coarse-grained mustard

Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Spread the veal on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.

In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, cook the bacon in the oil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned but not crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate and set aside. Do not wipe out the pan.

Heat the bacon fat over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of the veal with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the veal to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the veal, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the veal is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.

Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the onion, celery, and coarsely chopped carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in garlic, thyme, marjoram, orange zest, and bay leaves and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Return the bacon to the pot.

Add the vermouth, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the chicken broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.

Return the veal to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.

After 30 minutes of stewing, add the celery root and carrot pieces to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, and cook until the veal is fork-tender, 1 to 1-1/2 hours more (shoulder cuts will take longer than leg cuts).

Stir in the mustard. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Tex-Mex Chili

Chili purists may scorn the inclusion of onions, beer, and unsweetened chocolate, but they give this chili an unbelievable depth of flavor. Toasting and grinding your spices fresh is an important step for bringing out their fullest falvor.

• 1 Tbs. cumin seeds
• 1-1/2 tsp. coriander seeds
• 2 Tbs. fresh oregano leaves or 1 Tbs. dried
• 3 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 3 lb. beef chuck, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
• 1/2 large yellow onion, chopped
• 8 cloves garlic, chopped
• 5 fresh jalapeños (preferably red), stemmed, seeded, and chopped
• 3 Tbs. masa harina
• 2 Tbs. ground pasilla powder
• 2 lb. tomatoes (fresh or canned), seeded and chopped
• 1 dried chipotle chile, seeded
• 1 dried New Mexico red chile
• 1 bottle (12 oz.) dark beer, such as Negra Modelo
• 1 oz. unsweetened chocolate
• 4 cups water or homemade or low-salt canned chicken stock

Heat a small, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the cumin and coriander and toast, giving the pan an occasional shake, until the seeds are fragrant, about 5 minutes. Grind the seeds in a spice grinder or crush them in a mortar and pestle. In the same hot pan, toast the fresh oregano, if using (don't toast dried oregano). Remove the leaves after they've begun to dry out but before they lose all of their green color, about 3 minutes. Set aside.

In a large, heavy-based skillet, Dutch oven, or stockpot, heat the oil until very hot. Brown the meat in the oil in batches (add more oil to the pan as needed), being careful not to crowd the pan or the meat will stew in its own juices and not brown. Transfer the browned meat from the pan to a plate lined with paper towels. Don't clean the skillet after browning the meat.

To the same skillet, add the onion, garlic, jalapeños, masa harina, pasilla powder, the toasted ground cumin and coriander, and toasted (or dried) oregano. Stir over medium-high heat until the onion begins to soften, 5 to 8 minutes. Return the meat to the skillet; add the tomatoes, whole dried chiles, beer, chocolate, and water or stock. Simmer until the meat is fork-tender, about 1-1/2 hours. Remove the whole chiles before serving.

Turkey Chili

A light but still-hearty chili for cold winter nights.

• 3 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 1 small green bell pepper, chopped
• 8 oz. button mushrooms (about 10 medium-small)
• 2 cloves garlic
• 1 fresh jalapeño
• 2-1/2 Tbs. chili powder
• 1 tsp. dried oregano
• 1/8 to 1/4 tsp. cayenne; more to taste
• 1-1/2 tsp. coarse salt; more to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1 lb. ground turkey
• 1 can (29 oz.) tomato purée
• 1 can (14-1/2 oz.) diced tomatoes, drained
• 1 can (15-1/2 oz.) small white beans, rinsed and drained
• 1 to 2 tsp. balsamic vinegar

In a medium Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and bell pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until they’re just limp and some of the edges are browned, about 7 minutes.

Meanwhile, slice the mushrooms and mince the garlic cloves and jalapeño. When the onion mixture is ready, add the mushrooms and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until tender and light brown on the edges, about 5 minutes.

Add the garlic, jalapeño, chili powder, oregano, cayenne, salt, and pepper. Stir until well blended and fragrant, about 1 minute. Loosely break apart the ground turkey and add it to the pot. Gently stir until slightly more separated (don’t stir too much or the chili will be mealy) and coated with the other ingredients.

Stir in the tomato purée and diced tomatoes. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium low or low and simmer, stirring frequently, until the sauce is slightly reduced and thickened, about 20 minutes. Stir in the drained white beans and the balsamic vinegar. Taste and add more cayenne, salt, and pepper or another 1 tsp. balsamic vinegar to taste. Garnish with sour cream, snipped chives, and shredded Cheddar cheese, if you like.

Spicy Pork Stew with Peppers and Potatoes

Chipotles and roasted sweet peppers give this zesty pork stew a Southwestern flavor.

• 3 lb. boneless pork shoulder, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces
• 3 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
• 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 1 Tbs. chipotles in adobo, minced
• 1 tsp. cumin
• 1/2 tsp. dried oregano
• 1 cup beer (any kind)
• 2-/12 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought chicken broth
• 2 cups peeled diced white potatoes (1-inch dice)
• 2 cups halved or quartered shallots (leave whole if small)
• 2 cups chopped roasted, peeled red peppers (1-inch pieces)
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Spread the pork on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.

In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat the oil over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of pork with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the pork to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the pork, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the pork is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.

Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the onion, celery, and carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in the garlic, chipotles, cumin, and oregano and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.

Add the beer, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the chicken broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.

Return the pork to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.

After 30 minutes of stewing, add the potatoes and shallots to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, return to the oven. After another 30 minutes, add the peppers. Cover with the parchment and lid, return the pot to the oven, and cook until the pork is fork-tender, 1/2 to 1 hour more.

Stir in the cilantro. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Moroccan Lamb Stew

Green olives and preserved lemon give this Moroccan-influenced stew a tart-salty counterpoint to the sweet chunks of butternut squash.

• 3 lb. boneless lamb shoulder or leg, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces
• 3 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
• 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 1 Tbs. tomato paste
• 1 tsp. caraway seeds
• 1/4 tsp. cayenne
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 2-1/2 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought beef broth
• 2 cups onion wedges (3/4-inch wedges)
• 2 cups diced butternut squash (1-inch dice)
• 1 15-oz. can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
• 1/2 cup halved pitted green olives
• 1/4 cup chopped preserved lemon
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Spread the lamb on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.

In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat 3 Tbs. oil over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of lamb with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the lamb to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the lamb, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the lamb is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.

Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the onion, celery, and carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in the garlic, tomato paste, caraway, and cayenne and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.

Add the wine, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the beef broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.

Return the lamb to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.

After 1 hour of stewing, add the onion wedges to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, return to the oven. After another 30 minutes, add the squash. Cover with the parchment and lid, return the pot to the oven, and cook until the lamb is fork-tender, 3/4 to 1-1/4 hours more. (Shoulder cuts will take longer than leg cuts.)

Stir in the chickpeas. Return to the oven for 5 minutes. Stir in the olives, preserved lemon, and parsley. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Chicken Cacciatore with Sautéed Mushrooms & Zucchini

Canned tomatoes give this stew a chunky, full texture, so I don't purée the vegetables as I do in the other stews. Serve the stew over white rice, if you like.

• 6 skinless, bone-in chicken thighs (about 2-1/4 lb.), large pieces of fat trimmed
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 large red onion, finely diced
• 1/2 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced
• 2 cloves garlic, smashed
• 1/3 cup dry red wine (like Chianti)
• 1 can (28 oz.) whole peeled tomatoes
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme, plus 1 tsp. chopped
• 2 small sprigs fresh rosemary
• Pinch crushed red chile flakes
• 1 medium zucchini, quartered lengthwise and sliced into 1/4-inch pieces
• 1/2 lb. white mushrooms, cleaned and thinly sliced
• 1/3 cup pitted mixed green and black olives, quartered
• 3 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley; more for garnish

Season the chicken well with salt and pepper. Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy soup pot over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add half the thighs and brown them well, 2 to 3 min. per side. Transfer to a large plate. Brown the remaining thighs and reserve with the rest.

Reduce the heat to medium and add the onion, red pepper, and garlic. Season generously with salt and cook, stirring often with a wooden spoon and scraping up any browned bits, until the onion softens and browns, about 12 min. Turn the heat to high, add the wine, and cook until it's almost completely reduced, about 2 min. Reduce the heat to medium and add the tomatoes and their juices, the thyme sprigs, rosemary, and chile flakes. Nestle the chicken into the sauce and add any accumulated juices. Cook, stirring and breaking up the tomatoes with a wooden spoon for 10 min. Adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, cover the pot with the lid slightly ajar, and stew the chicken, turning it occasionally, until it's cooked through (check by slicing through the bottom of one of the thighs to the bone), another 25 to 30 min. If you like, discard the thyme sprigs, rosemary, and garlic.

When the stew is almost done, heat 1 Tbs. of the oil in a large skillet over high heat. When hot, add the zucchini. Season well with salt and pepper; sauté until the zucchini is tender and lightly browned, 3 to 4 min. Transfer to a bowl. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in the skillet and add the mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, tossing occasionally, until soft and lightly browned, 3 to 4 min. Add the olives and chopped thyme, return the zucchini to the pan, and toss. Fold the zucchini mixture and the parsley into the stew. Taste for salt and pepper. Serve immediately with a sprinkling of parsley.

Mexican Turkey Drumstick Mole

In this classic Mexican stew, turkey legs are poached until falling-apart tender, then the meat is teased off the bones and simmered in the rich, spicy sauce flavored with bittersweet chocolate, ground almonds, and three varieties of dried Mexican chiles.

For the poached drumsticks

• 6 cups lower-salt chicken broth; more as needed
• 2 medium yellow onions, peeled and each studded with 4 whole cloves
• 6 medium unpeeled cloves garlic
• 6 whole allspice berries
• 4 fresh or dried bay leaves
• 2 tsp. cumin seeds
• 2 tsp. black peppercorns
• 2 tsp. coriander seeds
• 2 tsp. dried oregano
• 1 tsp. fennel or aniseed
• One 4-inch cinnamon stick
• 4 large turkey drumsticks (about 3 lb. total)

For the mole sauce

• 3 ancho chiles
• 3 mulato chiles
• 3 guajillo chiles
• 1/3 cup raisins
• 3/4 cup whole toasted almonds
• 2 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped (about 1/2 cup)
• 3 medium ripe tomatoes, peeled and seeded (about 1 cup), or 1 cup canned seeded tomatoes, preferably Muir Glen
• 2 corn tortillas, cut into 6-inch strips
• 1 cup chopped yellow onion
• 2 medium cloves garlic
• 1 tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican
• 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
• 1/2 tsp. ground fennel or aniseed
• 1/8 tsp. ground allspice
• 1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
• Pinch of ground cloves
• 3 Tbs. olive oil or vegetable oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds

Poach the drumsticks

In a large (8-quart) Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, combine the broth, onions, garlic, and spices. Add the drumsticks and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover the pot, and cook until the meat is tender, about 1-1/2 hours. During cooking, add broth as needed to keep the drumsticks submerged, and turn them over from time to time. Transfer the drumsticks to a rimmed baking sheet and let cool. Strain the broth and save. Discard any solids.


When the legs are cool enough to handle, remove the skin and discard. Pull the meat from the bones and remove any sinews. Leave the meat in the largest chunks possible and set aside in a large bowl.

Make the mole sauce

Tear the chiles into large pieces, discarding the stems and seeds.


In a large (12-inch), dry, heavy-duty skillet over medium-high heat, toast the chiles, turning them frequently, for 10 to 15 seconds. Transfer the chiles to a bowl, add the raisins, cover with 3 cups boiling water, and soak for at least 30 minutes or until soft.

Drain the chiles and raisins. Set aside 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid and combine the remaining liquid with the turkey broth.


Put the almonds and chocolate in a food processor and pulse several times to finely grind them. Add the chiles and raisins, the reserved 1/2 cup of chile liquid, and the tomatoes, tortillas, onion, garlic, oregano, cumin, fennel, allspice, cinnamon, and cloves. Process until smooth.


In a large (8-quart) Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the chile mixture and cook, stirring frequently, until it darkens and becomes quite thick, about 8 minutes. Add 4 cups of the turkey broth and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cover, reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook until the sauce is thick but still pourable, about 40 minutes. Add more turkey broth if it becomes too thick.

Stir in the turkey meat and cook for 10 minutes over low heat so the turkey can absorb the flavors of the mole sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the turkey and sauce into a shallow serving bowl and sprinkle with the toasted sesame seeds.

Chicken Stew with Spinach, Potatoes & Porcini

Be sure to buy good-quality dried porcini mushrooms (with large white cross sections). Cheaper ones are dark and shriveled and have an overly pungent aroma, which will give the stew an off taste.

• 1/2 oz. dried porcini mushrooms
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 slices (1/8 inch thick) pancetta or bacon (about 2 oz.), sliced into thin strips
• 6 skinless, bone-in chicken thighs (about 2-1/4 lb.), large pieces of fat trimmed
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 large yellow onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 2 small cloves garlic, minced
• 1/4 cup dry sherry or dry white wine
• 2 large Yukon Gold potatoes (1 lb. total), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme, plus 1-1/2 tsp. chopped
• 1-1/2 cups homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth; more if needed
• 2 Tbs. sherry vinegar or balsamic vinegar
• 1 cup coarse fresh breadcrumbs (about 1-1/2 oz.)
• 2 cups baby spinach leaves (about 2 oz.)

Soak the porcini in 1-1/2 cups boiling water for 20 min. Strain them (reserving the soaking liquid) and chop them.

Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy soup pot over medium heat. Add the pancetta or bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp, about 7 min.; transfer to a plate lined with paper towels. Season the chicken well with salt and pepper. Add half of the thighs to the pan and brown them well, 2 to 3 min. per side. Transfer to a large plate. Brown the remaining thighs and reserve with the rest.

Add the onion and half of the garlic to the pan and season well with salt. Cook, stirring with a wooden spoon and scraping up any browned bits, until the onion softens and darkens slightly, about 7 min. Add the chopped porcini and cook for another 1 minute. Pour in the sherry and cook, stirring occasionally, until it's almost completely reduced, about 2 min. Add the potatoes, thyme sprigs, chicken broth, reserved porcini water, and vinegar and bring to a boil over high heat. Adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, cover the pan, and cook until the potatoes are just tender, about 15 min. Discard the thyme sprigs. Purée 1-1/2 cups of the chunky potato mixture in a blender. Return the puréed mixture to the rest of the broth, nestle in the chicken (and add any accumulated juices), and cover the pot with the lid slightly ajar. Stew the chicken thighs at a bare simmer, turning them occasionally, until they're cooked through (check by slicing through the bottom of one of the thighs to the bone), about 30 min.

Meanwhile, in a large nonstick skillet, heat the remaining 2 Tbs. oil over medium heat. Add the remaining garlic, sauté until it starts to color, about 20 seconds, and then add the breadcrumbs. Cook, stirring often, until they turn golden brown, about 6 minutes. Stir in 1/2 tsp. of the chopped thyme, season lightly with salt and pepper, and transfer to a plate lined with paper towels.

When the chicken is done, fold in the spinach and stir until wilted, about 1 minute. Stir in the remaining 1 tsp. chopped thyme and the pancetta; season well with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, sprinkled generously with the breadcrumbs.

Cassoulet

This recipe serves six generously, and it’s easily doubled if you want to make more (leftovers are delicious). If you don’t have the traditional deep earthenware casserole, use a 5-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven or a ceramic soufflé dish -- the vessel needs to be wide enough for a crust to form. For pork rind, order it or buy salt pork and cut the rind off, freezing the salt pork for another use.

For the bean stew

• 1 lb. dry white beans, such as cannelini or Great Northern
• 1 pig’s foot or 1 small fresh ham hock
• 3/4 lb. pork belly or pancetta
• 1/2 lb. pork rind
• 1 medium carrot, halved
• 1/2 large onion, peeled and halved, each half studded with 1 whole clove
• 1/2 tomato, peeled and seeded, or 1/2 cup canned whole tomatoes, drained
• 1/2 rib celery, halved
• 1/2 head garlic, halved across the top
• 1 bay leaf, several sprigs of fresh thyme, and several parsley stems, tied together in a bouquet
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the lamb stew

• 1 lb. boneless lamb shoulder, neck, or shank meat (about 2 lb. on the bone)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup duck fat or olive oil
• 1 medium carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped
• 1 onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
• 3/4 cup dry white wine
• 2 tomatoes, peeled and seeded, or 2 cups canned whole tomatoes, lightly squeezed
• 1 bay leaf, several sprigs of fresh thyme, and several parsley stems, tied together in a bouquet
• 2 cloves garlic
• 2 cups homemade or low-salt chicken broth or duck stock

For the cassoulet

• 1/4 cup duck fat or olive oil
• 1/2 lb. garlic sausage or sweet Italian sausage that’s not seasoned with fennel
• 3 to 4 duck confit legs
• 1 clove garlic
• Bean stew
• Lamb stew
• 2 cups coarse, unseasoned breadcrumbs, toasted, preferably from a baguette
• Extra chicken broth or duck stock for moistening the cassoulet during baking, if needed

Tip:

Duck fat and confit duck legs are available at www.dartagnan.com, or you can make your own duck confit. 

Make the bean stew: Soak the beans overnight in enough cold water to cover them well. Drain, rinse, and pick through them for stones and damaged beans. In a large saucepan, cover the pig’s foot or ham hock, pork belly or pancetta, and pork rind with cold water. Bring to a boil, simmer for 3 minutes, drain, and rinse in cold water. Reserve. In a large saucepan, cover the beans with lukewarm water. Bring to a boil, drain, and return to the pan. Cover with hot water. Add the carrots, onion, tomato, celery, garlic, and herb bouquet. Bring to a boil, add the reserved pig’s foot or ham hock, pork belly or pancetta, and pork rind. Simmer, covered, for 1-1/2 hours, until completely tender (don’t add salt yet). Transfer to a large pan to cool and reserve the beans in their cooking liquid. Remove the carrot, onion, and herb bouquet; discard. Taste and season with salt and pepper as needed, but be prudent, as the pork parts add a good bit of salty flavor.

Meanwhile, make the lamb stew: Cut the lamb into 2-1/2-inch pieces. Season with salt and pepper. In a large, heavy sauté pan over medium-high heat, melt the duck fat or heat the oil. Sear the lamb pieces until well browned on all sides. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve. Add the carrot and onion, lower the heat to medium, and cover the pan. Sweat the vegetables until tender but not browned, about 6 minutes. Raise the heat, add the white wine, and boil, scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon, until the liquid is reduced by half. Add the reserved lamb and any juices, the tomatoes, herb bouquet, garlic, and broth or stock. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat and simmer, covered, until the lamb is tender, about 1 hour, skimming off the fat and froth as needed. Discard the herb bouquet and reserve the lamb stew until it’s time to assemble the cassoulet.

Assemble the cassoulet: Heat the oven to 250°F. In a medium-size sauté pan over medium-high heat, heat half of the duck fat or olive oil. Add the sausage and brown it on all sides. When cool enough to handle, cut it into six pieces.

Cut the duck confit legs in half at the joint. Rub the garlic clove over the inside of an earthenware casserole, an enameled cast-iron Dutch oven, or a large ceramic soufflé mold. Retrieve the pig’s foot or ham hock, pork rind, and pork belly or pancetta from the bean stew. Discard the pig’s foot or ham hock bones. (If you’ve used a ham hock, tear off any remaining meat and add it to the bean stew.) Cut the pork belly or pancetta into 1/2-inch pieces and reserve. Cut the pork rind into 1/2-inch pieces and scatter them over the bottom of the dish.

With a slotted spoon, transfer one-third of the beans to the dish. Do the same with half the pork belly or pancetta, all of the duck confit, half the lamb stew (again, use a slotted spoon, because you’ll be using the cooking liquid later), and all of the sausage. Cover the meats with another one-third of beans, the remaining pork belly and lamb stew, and finish with the last one-third of beans. Combine the bean juices with the lamb sauce, taste for seasoning (remembering that the duck confit is salty), and pour just enough over the dish to barely cover the beans.

Sprinkle the dish with the breadcrumbs and drizzle the remaining duck fat (melt it first if it’s still solid) or olive oil over the breadcrumbs. Bake for 2-1/2 hours and then raise the heat to 350°F and bake until the crust is a rich golden brown and the cassoulet is bubbling around the edges, about another 30 minutes. Check the cassoulet during baking -- if it’s getting too dry, add more broth or stock; if the crust is browning too quickly, cover it with foil. Let the cassoulet rest for at least 30 minutes before serving. Bring the entire dish to the table and serve each guest some crust, beans, and pieces of the different meats.

Cassoulet

This recipe serves six generously, and it’s easily doubled if you want to make more (leftovers are delicious). If you don’t have the traditional deep earthenware casserole, use a 5-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven or a ceramic soufflé dish -- the vessel needs to be wide enough for a crust to form. For pork rind, order it or buy salt pork and cut the rind off, freezing the salt pork for another use.

For the bean stew

• 1 lb. dry white beans, such as cannelini or Great Northern
• 1 pig’s foot or 1 small fresh ham hock
• 3/4 lb. pork belly or pancetta
• 1/2 lb. pork rind
• 1 medium carrot, halved
• 1/2 large onion, peeled and halved, each half studded with 1 whole clove
• 1/2 tomato, peeled and seeded, or 1/2 cup canned whole tomatoes, drained
• 1/2 rib celery, halved
• 1/2 head garlic, halved across the top
• 1 bay leaf, several sprigs of fresh thyme, and several parsley stems, tied together in a bouquet
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the lamb stew

• 1 lb. boneless lamb shoulder, neck, or shank meat (about 2 lb. on the bone)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup duck fat or olive oil
• 1 medium carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped
• 1 onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
• 3/4 cup dry white wine
• 2 tomatoes, peeled and seeded, or 2 cups canned whole tomatoes, lightly squeezed
• 1 bay leaf, several sprigs of fresh thyme, and several parsley stems, tied together in a bouquet
• 2 cloves garlic
• 2 cups homemade or low-salt chicken broth or duck stock

For the cassoulet

• 1/4 cup duck fat or olive oil
• 1/2 lb. garlic sausage or sweet Italian sausage that’s not seasoned with fennel
• 3 to 4 duck confit legs
• 1 clove garlic
• Bean stew
• Lamb stew
• 2 cups coarse, unseasoned breadcrumbs, toasted, preferably from a baguette
• Extra chicken broth or duck stock for moistening the cassoulet during baking, if needed

Tip:

Duck fat and confit duck legs are available at www.dartagnan.com, or you can make your own duck confit. 

Make the bean stew: Soak the beans overnight in enough cold water to cover them well. Drain, rinse, and pick through them for stones and damaged beans. In a large saucepan, cover the pig’s foot or ham hock, pork belly or pancetta, and pork rind with cold water. Bring to a boil, simmer for 3 minutes, drain, and rinse in cold water. Reserve. In a large saucepan, cover the beans with lukewarm water. Bring to a boil, drain, and return to the pan. Cover with hot water. Add the carrots, onion, tomato, celery, garlic, and herb bouquet. Bring to a boil, add the reserved pig’s foot or ham hock, pork belly or pancetta, and pork rind. Simmer, covered, for 1-1/2 hours, until completely tender (don’t add salt yet). Transfer to a large pan to cool and reserve the beans in their cooking liquid. Remove the carrot, onion, and herb bouquet; discard. Taste and season with salt and pepper as needed, but be prudent, as the pork parts add a good bit of salty flavor.

Meanwhile, make the lamb stew: Cut the lamb into 2-1/2-inch pieces. Season with salt and pepper. In a large, heavy sauté pan over medium-high heat, melt the duck fat or heat the oil. Sear the lamb pieces until well browned on all sides. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve. Add the carrot and onion, lower the heat to medium, and cover the pan. Sweat the vegetables until tender but not browned, about 6 minutes. Raise the heat, add the white wine, and boil, scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon, until the liquid is reduced by half. Add the reserved lamb and any juices, the tomatoes, herb bouquet, garlic, and broth or stock. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat and simmer, covered, until the lamb is tender, about 1 hour, skimming off the fat and froth as needed. Discard the herb bouquet and reserve the lamb stew until it’s time to assemble the cassoulet.

Assemble the cassoulet: Heat the oven to 250°F. In a medium-size sauté pan over medium-high heat, heat half of the duck fat or olive oil. Add the sausage and brown it on all sides. When cool enough to handle, cut it into six pieces.

Cut the duck confit legs in half at the joint. Rub the garlic clove over the inside of an earthenware casserole, an enameled cast-iron Dutch oven, or a large ceramic soufflé mold. Retrieve the pig’s foot or ham hock, pork rind, and pork belly or pancetta from the bean stew. Discard the pig’s foot or ham hock bones. (If you’ve used a ham hock, tear off any remaining meat and add it to the bean stew.) Cut the pork belly or pancetta into 1/2-inch pieces and reserve. Cut the pork rind into 1/2-inch pieces and scatter them over the bottom of the dish.

With a slotted spoon, transfer one-third of the beans to the dish. Do the same with half the pork belly or pancetta, all of the duck confit, half the lamb stew (again, use a slotted spoon, because you’ll be using the cooking liquid later), and all of the sausage. Cover the meats with another one-third of beans, the remaining pork belly and lamb stew, and finish with the last one-third of beans. Combine the bean juices with the lamb sauce, taste for seasoning (remembering that the duck confit is salty), and pour just enough over the dish to barely cover the beans.

Sprinkle the dish with the breadcrumbs and drizzle the remaining duck fat (melt it first if it’s still solid) or olive oil over the breadcrumbs. Bake for 2-1/2 hours and then raise the heat to 350°F and bake until the crust is a rich golden brown and the cassoulet is bubbling around the edges, about another 30 minutes. Check the cassoulet during baking -- if it’s getting too dry, add more broth or stock; if the crust is browning too quickly, cover it with foil. Let the cassoulet rest for at least 30 minutes before serving. Bring the entire dish to the table and serve each guest some crust, beans, and pieces of the different meats.

Brazilian Chicken & Shrimp Stew (Xim-Xim)

This is my take on xim-xim, a traditional stew from Brazil by way of West Africa. Xim-xim relies on a specific set of ingredients: dendê oil (the Brazilian name for palm oil), coconut milk, and nuts. You can substitute olive oil for the dendê oil. For more information on these authentic Brazilian ingredients, check out our ingredient profiles.

• 3 cloves garlic
• Kosher salt
• 1 large white or yellow onion, coarsely chopped (3 cups)
• 2 large ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped (1 cup)
• 1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro stems and leaves plus 1/2 cup whole leaves for garnish
• 1/4 cup fresh lime juice
• 4 fresh Thai bird chiles, coarsely chopped, or jarred malagueta peppers, drained
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 4 bone-in, skinless chicken thighs (1-1/2 lb.)
• 1 lb. jumbo shrimp (21 to 25 per lb.), shelled and deveined
• 2 Tbs. plus 1/3 cup lightly salted cashews, toasted
• 3 Tbs. olive oil or well-shaken dendê and soy oil blend
• 3/4 cup well-stirred canned coconut milk
• Hot cooked white rice for serving

Peel and chop the garlic. Sprinkle with 1 tsp. salt, and with the side of a heavy chef’s knife, mash to a paste. Transfer to a food processor and add the onion, tomatoes, chopped cilantro stems and leaves, lime juice, chiles, ginger, and 1/4 tsp. black pepper. Pulse until finely chopped and almost smooth. Put the chicken and shrimp in a large bowl, add the onion mixture, and turn to coat well. Cover and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours.

Meanwhile, pulse 2 Tbs. of the cashews in a spice grinder just until finely ground; do not let them form a paste.

Remove the chicken from the marinade, brushing excess marinade back into the bowl. Pat the chicken dry with paper towels. Season on both sides with 1/4 tsp. salt. Heat 2 Tbs. of the olive or dendê oil in a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the chicken and cook, turning once, until very lightly browned on both sides, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer the thighs to a plate as they are browned.

Remove the shrimp from the marinade and set them aside. Put the marinade in the Dutch oven, add the coconut milk and ground cashews, and cook over medium heat, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan, for 3 minutes to cook off the raw onion flavor.

Return the chicken to the Dutch oven, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally and turning the chicken halfway through cooking, until the chicken is tender and cooked through, about 25 minutes total.

Increase the heat to medium, stir in the shrimp, and cook, stirring constantly, just until the shrimp are bright pink and nearly opaque throughout, 2 to 3 minutes; they will continue to cook after they’re removed from the heat. Off the heat, stir in half the remaining cashews and half the whole cilantro leaves. Season to taste with salt.

Transfer the chicken to a large deep platter and pour the shrimp and sauce over it. Drizzle with the remaining 1 Tbs. dendê or olive oil, top with the remaining cashews and cilantro leaves, and serve hot with the white rice.