Crackle Brittle

This brittle is based on the filling of the celebrated Crack Pie we serve at my bakeries. An easy no-boil recipe, it’s a good option for anyone nervous about a pot of hot sugar.

• Vegetable oil for the pan, if needed
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1/4 cup packed light brown sugar
• 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1-1/4 tsp. kosher salt
• 2-1/4 oz. (4-1/2 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 2 large egg yolks
• 1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1 cup puffed rice cereal, crushed corn flakes or other cereal, graham crackers, chips, pretzels, granola, nuts, or seeds

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Have ready a 9x13-inch rimmed baking sheet. If the sheet is not nonstick, line the bottom and sides with parchment and oil the parchment.

Whisk both sugars, the flour, and salt in a medium bowl. Whisk in the butter, cream, yolks, and vanilla until well combined.

Pour the mixture onto the baking sheet and use a silicone spatula to spread it evenly to the edges. Sprinkle the cereal, nuts, or seeds over the mixture. Bake, rotating the pan if hot spots appear, until the brittle is dark golden-brown, 20 to 25 minutes.

Cool on the baking sheet on a rack at room temperature for 30minutes (leave the oven on). If it’s still malleable, return it to the hot oven for another 5 to 10 minutes until it’s a shade or two darker. Let cool for another 30 minutes and test again. Once it’s no longer malleable, cool completely, about 1-1/2 hours.

Invert the brittle onto a cutting board and remove the baking sheet and parchment, if using. Use a meat mallet, rolling pin, or your hands to break it up into medium-to-small pieces. The brittle can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 month.

Pumpkin & Cornmeal Cake with Orange Syrup

For the cake:

• 1/2 lb. (1 cup) unsalted butter, at-room temperature
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 1 Tbs. finely grated orange-zest
• 1 large egg
• 2 large eggs, separated
• 8 oz. (1 cup) canned pure solid-pack pumpkin (not pumpkin pie filling)
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 6-3/4 oz. (1-1/2 cups) all-purpose flour
• 2 tsp. baking powder
• 1/4 tsp. table salt
• 1/2 cup (3-1/4 oz.) fine-ground yellow cornmeal (don’t use coarse)
• Sifted confectioners’ sugar for garnish (optional)

For the syrup and for serving:

• 1/2 cup fresh orange juice (from 1 to 2 medium juice oranges)
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• Vanilla yogurt or vanilla ice cream (optional)

Tip:

This cake keeps extremely well, covered tightly at room temperature, for up to six days. It can also be frozen for up to two months.

Position an oven rack on the middle rung and heat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-inch bundt pan. With a hand mixer or a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter, sugar, and orange zest until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. One at a time, add the egg and egg yolks (remember to reserve the whites), beating well and scraping down the sides of the bowl between each addition. Beat in the pumpkin and vanilla.

Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt; stir in the cornmeal. Add this mixture to the pumpkin batter in three stages, stirring gently but thoroughly with a rubber spatula after each addition; don’t overwork the batter.

In a clean bowl with a very clean whisk or hand mixer, whip the reserved egg whites until they hold soft peaks. Gently fold the whites into the batter with the spatula until you no longer see streaks of white. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan; smooth the surface. Bake until the top of the cake is springy when lightly touched, the sides are beginning to pull away from the pan, and a wooden skewer inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, 40 to 50 minutes. Let cool in the pan for 10 minutes and then invert the cake onto a wire rack to cool completely. Dust the cake with sifted confectioners’ sugar, if you like.

In a small saucepan over low heat, combine the orange juice and sugar, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Increase the heat to medium high. Boil without stirring for 2 minutes. (If you make the syrup ahead, be sure to warm it gently before serving.)

Serve each slice of cake drizzled with syrup and, if you like, accompanied by a scoop of vanilla yogurt or vanilla ice cream.

Pumpkin and Sweet Potato Purée with Orange and Thyme

The pumpkin shell, used here as a serving vessel, makes for a dramatic presentation, perfect for a Thanksgiving dinner table, but feel free to skip it for a casual dinner. This makes a great side dish for roast poultry or pork.
For more side dish recipes visit The Guide to Thanksgiving Dinner.

• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter; more for the baking sheet
• 1 small (1-1/2 lb.) Sugar Pie pumpkin
• 1 medium (2- to 2-1/4 -lb.) Sugar Pie pumpkin
• 1 large (14- to 16-oz.) sweet potato
• 2 Tbs. light brown sugar
• 1 tsp. finely grated orange zest
• 1 tsp. minced fresh thyme
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.

Generously butter a rimmed baking sheet. Cut the small pumpkin in half lengthwise and put it cut side down on the baking sheet. Cut a 1/2-inch lid from the stem end of the medium pumpkin and put both pieces cut side down on the same baking sheet. Cut the sweet potato in half lengthwise and place cut side down on the same baking sheet. Cover the vegetables tightly with foil and bake until the sweet potato and halved pumpkin are very tender, and the larger pumpkin is tender when pierced with fork, about 1-1/2 hours. Let stand until cool enough to handle.

Scoop the seeds from the halved pumpkin and discard. Remove the skin and put the flesh in a food processor. Peel the sweet potato and add it to the processor, along with the butter, brown sugar, orange zest, and thyme. Purée until smooth and season to taste with salt and pepper.


Scoop the seeds from the larger pumpkin, leaving the shell and flesh intact. Season the inside of the pumpkin lightly with salt and pepper. Transfer the purée to the pumpkin shell and top with the lid. (If you can’t fit all the purée, put the remainder in a small baking dish, cover, and bake alongside the pumpkin.) Put the pumpkin on the baking sheet and bake until the pumpkin and purée are heated through, about 40 minutes. Transfer to a serving plate and serve, spooning the purée from the pumpkin.

Venezuelan Chocolate Chile Chicken

There are very many versions of chocolate chile chicken, but I chose to include this one as it’s fantastically quick and easy to make. I can’t promise it’s authentic, but it does have the wow factor, and the Venezuelan chocolate adds a deep, rich, glossy finish and flavor.  

• 4 banana shallots, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1 Tbs. light olive oil
• 4 organic chicken thighs
• 4 organic chicken drumsticks
• Juice and zest of 3 oranges 
• 3 fresh red chiles, finely diced
• 2 tsp. dried mulato chiles (or any other mild chiles)
• 1 Tbs. coriander seeds
• 400 grams canned chopped tomatoes
• 1 Tbs. dark muscovado sugar
• 150 grams Venezuelan dark chocolate, broken into pieces
• Bunch of coriander leaves (about 25 g)

Heat the oven to 400°F.

In a casserole dish, sauté the shallots and the garlic in the olive oil, then add the chicken pieces and brown on all sides. Add the orange juice and zest, fresh and dried chiles, coriander seeds, tomatoes and sugar and simmer for 5 minutes. Pop on the lid and cook in the oven for 20 minutes.

Remove from oven, lift out the chicken and stir the chocolate into the remaining sauce. Serve with the sauce smothered over the chicken with generous amounts of chopped or torn coriander leaves.

Pumpkin Sage Bundt Cake

This wonderful and savory combination make for a more interesting and sophisticated pumpkin cake. Finish off slices with some maple syrup–sweetened crème fraîche.
For more side Thanksgiving dessert recipes visit The Guide to Thanksgiving Dinner.

• 3⁄4 cup (1-1⁄2 sticks) unsalted butter
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh sage leaves
• 2-1⁄2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
• 2 tsp. baking powder
• 2 tsp. ground ginger
• 1 tsp. table salt
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 1 cup packed light brown sugar
• 1 15-ounce can pumpkin purée
• 3 large eggs
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1 cup chopped walnuts

Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Grease a 12-cup Bundt pan and dust with flour. Combine the butter and sage in a small pan and heat on low until the butter is melted. Set aside to cool.

Whisk together the flour, baking powder, ginger, and salt in a medium mixing bowl. Whisk together the butter and sage mixture, granulated sugar, brown sugar, pumpkin, eggs, and vanilla in a large mixing bowl. Stir the flour into the pumpkin mixture until combined. Stir in the chopped nuts.

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Let cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then invert it onto a wire rack to cool completely. Slice and serve. 

Heirloom Bloody Mary

To create this seasonal cocktail, the bartenders at Union Square Café pilfer the kitchen’s heirloom tomatoes, sourced from the nearby farmers’ market.  At its best in late summer, this brunch mainstay is made truly special by passing the tomatoes through a potato ricer rather than juicing them.Browse our Drinks & Entertaining Guide page for more spicy cocktails.

For the tomato juice:

• 4 large, very ripe heirloom tomatoes

For the bloody mary:

• 2 oz. vodka, preferably Ketel One
• 1 oz.  fresh lime juice
• 1/2 tsp. freshly grated horseradish, or to taste
• 1 tsp. green hot-pepper sauce such as Tabasco, or to taste
• Sea salt and coarsely ground black pepper to taste
• Ice
• Grape, cherry, or heirloom toy box tomatoes, halved, for garnish

To make the tomato juice:

Pass the heirloom tomatoes through a potato ricer into a glass measuring pitcher, pressing on the solids with a spoon to extract as much juice as possible. Discard the solids. You need about 4 oz juice (reserve the remainder for another use).  Cover and refrigerate the juice for at least 30 minutes before serving. 

To make the bloody mary:

Add the vodka, lime juice, horseradish, hot-pepper sauce, salt, and black pepper to the chilled juice and stir to mix well.  Taste and adjust the seasoning.  Fill a highball glass halfway with ice. Thread the grape tomatoes onto a wooden skewer.  Pour the tomato mixture over the ice, garnish the glass with the skewer, and serve. 

Dark Chocolate Pretzel Clusters

Chocolate with a salty crunch is all the rage now—even the mass market candy makers have caught on. But some of us are long-time devotees. Dark chocolate-covered pretzels have been a favorite of mine since childhood, so when I found myself with a bag of broken pretzels what else could I do but smother them in the best quality chocolate and turn them into a mouthwatering candy cluster.

• 4 oz. any shape thick-style salted pretzels
• 6 oz. dark chocolate (60% to 70% cocoa solids), chopped

Line a baking sheet with wax paper.

Put the pretzels into a sealable plastic bag and crush them with a rolling pin or mallet into about 1/4-inch pieces. You should wind up with about 2 cups of pretzel pieces.

Place the chocolate in the top of a double boiler set over barely simmering water. Make sure the bottom of the pan does not touch the water. Melt the chocolate, stirring frequently, about 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat. Add the pretzel pieces to the chocolate and stir until well coated.

Scoop heaping tablespoon-size stacks of the chocolate-covered pretzel pieces onto the prepared baking sheet. Place the baking sheet in the refrigerator and allow to cool and set, about 20 minutes. Store and serve at room temperature.

Crunchy Roasted Pepitas

• 1 cup large raw pepitas (pumpkin seeds)
• 1 tsp. olive oil
• 1-1/2 tsp. ground coriander
• 3/4 tsp. kosher salt
• 1/2 tsp. dried dill
• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• Pinch cayenne (optional)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. Toss the seeds with the olive oil on a baking sheet large enough to hold them in a single layer. Spread in an even layer and roast the seeds in the oven, stirring occasionally, until golden, 13 to 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and immediately toss the seeds with the coriander, salt, dill, pepper, and cayenne, if using. Let cool for 10 minutes. Transfer to a small serving dish or two and serve. (If you’re working ahead, refresh the pepitas for a minute or two in the oven before serving).

Slow Cooker Pulled-Pork Sandwiches

Everybody loves a sandwich for dinner, especially if it's one with saucy pulled pork spilling out the sides. You'll need two hands for this easy version of the classic, along with lots of napkins.

• 1 large yellow onion, halved and sliced
• 3/4 cup jarred tomato salsa (medium heat)
• 1/3 cup plus 2 Tbs. cider vinegar
• 1/3 cup packed light brown sugar
• 1 Tbs. ground cumin
• 1 Tbs. chili powder
• Kosher salt
• One 4- to 4-1/2-lb. bone-in pork shoulder, trimmed
• 3 Tbs. tomato paste
• Toasted hamburger buns, for serving

In a 4-quart slow cooker, combine the onion, salsa, 1/3 cup of the vinegar, the brown sugar, cumin, chili powder, and 1 tsp. salt. Add the pork shoulder and turn to coat. Cover the slow cooker and cook until the pork is fork-tender, 5 to 6 hours on high or 7 to 8 hours on low.


Transfer the pork to a cutting board. Using two forks, shred the pork. Discard the bone and fat. Put 1 cup of the juices and onions in a large bowl. Whisk in the tomato paste, the remaining 2 Tbs. vinegar, and 1 tsp. salt. Add the pulled pork and stir to combine. If the pork seems dry, add more juices as needed. Mound the pork on the toasted hamburger buns.

Turkey and Butternut Squash Chili with Apple-Cilantro Garnish

With its orange color, this slightly sweet, mild chili is ideal for Super Bowl parties or Halloween, and it will please adults and kids alike. For variation, you can use chicken instead of turkey thighs and different types of canned beans; to up the heat, add minced jalapeño or increase the chipotle. To save time, buy precut squash, garlic, and onions. Prepare the garnish—so delicious, you might want to double it—within a couple of hours of serving.

For the chili

• 2 slices white bread
• 1⁄2 cup whole milk
• 1-1⁄2 lbs. ground turkey
• 1 cup canned pumpkin
• 1 cup canned diced tomatoes, with juice
• 1⁄4 cup apricot nectar or orange or apple juice
• 2 Tbs. fresh-squeezed, strained lime juice
• 1⁄4 cup olive oil, divided
• 6 cups packed 1⁄2-inch-cubed peeled butternut squash
• 1-1⁄2 cups finely chopped red onions
• 2 Tbs. minced garlic
• 2 tsp. chili powder, divided
• 2 tsp. coarse salt, divided
• 10 grinds black pepper, divided
• 2 Tbs. tomato paste
• 2 Tbs. liquid from a can of chipotle chiles en adobo
• 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• One 15-oz. can white (cannellini) beans, drained and rinsed
• One 15-1⁄2-oz. can chickpeas, rinsed and drained

For the apple-cilantro garnish

• 1-1⁄4 cups 1⁄3-inch-diced unpeeled sweet apples, such as Macintosh
• 1⁄4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves
• 2 Tbs. fresh-squeezed, strained lime juice

To make the chili

Tip:

To adapt a slow-cooker recipe to a conventional oven, follow these guidelines: add more liquid, to accommodate for greater evaporation; bring the dish to a boil over high heat in a Dutch oven, then cover the pot and put in a 350°F oven. Plan on the dish taking roughly half the time to cook in the oven as it would in the slow cooker.

In a medium bowl, mash the bread and milk together until a smooth paste forms, then gently knead in the meat; set aside. In a small bowl, combine the pumpkin, tomatoes, nectar, and lime juice; set aside.

Heat half of the oil in a 10-inch, heavy sauté pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add the squash, onions, garlic, half of the chili powder, 1 tsp. salt, and 5 grinds pepper. Sauté, stirring, until the mixture is aromatic and the squash is slightly softened when poked with a fork, about 6 minutes. Transfer to the slow cooker.

Add the remaining oil, meat-bread mixture, tomato paste, chipotle liquid, flour, remaining chili powder, salt, and pepper to the pan. Sauté, stirring with a wooden spoon, until aromatic and the flour is no longer visible, about 5 minutes. Add the pumpkin-nectar mix to the pan and simmer, stirring, for 2 more minutes. Add to the slow cooker. Mix in the beans and the chickpeas, cover, and cook on low until the meat is cooked through and the squash is tender, 4 to 6 hours. Serve with Apple-Cilantro Garnish on the side (see below).

To make the garnish

Mix the ingredients together in a small bowl, chill, and serve with the chili.

Black Bean Soup with Sherry

Dry sherry gives this soup an extra boost of flavor that belies how quick and easy it is. A garnish of queso fresco and chopped tomatoes adds color.

• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
• 1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped
• 3 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 2 cups lower-salt chicken broth
• Two 15-1/2-oz. cans black beans, including liquid
• 1 tsp. ground cumin
• 1 tsp. dried oregano
• 1 Tbs. tomato paste
• 1/4 cup dry sherry, preferably fino
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oil in a 4- to 5-quart heavy-duty pot over medium heat. Add the onion, green pepper, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes.


Meanwhile, purée the chicken broth with one can of black beans and bean liquid in a blender.


Add the cumin and oregano to the pot and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, for 1 minute more. Stir in the black bean purée and the remaining whole beans with their liquid; bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, partially cover the pot, and simmer, stirring frequently, until the flavors are melded, about 10 minutes. Stir in the sherry and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Caramel Peanut Popcorn

Cracker Jacks watch out! The popcorn, excerpted from the book DamGood Sweet, is great bagged in cellophane and given as gifts, or serve it in paper cones. For a more sophisticated take, try substituting toasted sliced almonds for the peanuts.

• 1 3-1⁄2-oz. package plain (unbuttered natural flavor) microwave popcorn 
• 1  cup packed light brown sugar
• 1⁄4  cup light corn syrup
• 6  Tbs. unsalted butter, melted
• 1⁄4  tsp. salt
• 2  tsp. vanilla extract
• 1⁄2  tsp. baking soda
• 1  cup lightly salted peanuts (extra large, if available), roughly chopped

Heat the oven to 250°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.

Pop the popcorn according to the package instructions. Coat a large mixing bowl with nonstick cooking spray and transfer the popcorn from the bag to the bowl, then set the bowl aside.

Whisk the sugar, corn syrup, butter, salt, and 2 Tbs. of water in a pot and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Continue to simmer, stirring often, until the mixture reads 250°F on a digital thermometer, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn off the heat and whisk in the vanilla and the baking soda. Immediately pour the hot mixture over the popcorn. Use a rubber spatula to gently fold the caramel into the popcorn until all of the popcorn is coated. Gently stir in the peanuts and transfer the mixture to the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 1 hour, stirring every 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and place on a cooling rack for 20 minutes. Gently break up the popcorn and serve immediately, or store in an airtight container for up to 5 days (less if it’s hot and humid).

Chocolate Cupcakes with Dark Chocolate Frosting

These cupcakes become even more moist and fudgy the day after you make them.

For the frosting:

• 4 oz. unsweetened chocolate
• 3/4 cup evaporated milk
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• Pinch salt

For the cupcakes:

• 4 oz. unsweetened chocolate
• 6 oz. (1-1/2 cups) all-purpose flour
• 3/4 tsp. baking soda
• 1/2 tsp. table salt
• 2 cups granulated sugar
• 1 cup strong, hot coffee
• 1/2 cup sour cream
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil
• 2 large eggs

Make the frosting:

In a double boiler, melt the chocolate carefully. In a blender, blend the evaporated milk, sugar, and salt until the sugar is dissolved. Add the chocolate and blend until the mixture is thick and glossy, about 3 minutes. Store at room temperature, covered with plastic, until ready to use.

Bake the cupcakes:

Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease your muffin tins. Melt the chocolate carefully in a double boiler; set aside to cool.

Sift the flour, baking soda, salt, and sugar into a medium bowl. In a large bowl, whisk the coffee, sour cream, oil, and eggs; whisk in the chocolate. Add the dry ingredients, whisking until there are no lumps.

Pour the batter into the prepared muffin tins, portioning it evenly to make 16 cupcakes. Bake on the middle rack until a toothpick inserted into the middle of a cupcake comes out clean, 19 to 20 minutes. Let the cupcakes cool in the pan for 15 minutes; then remove them from the pan and let them cool completely. Spread the cupcakes generously with the frosting.

Black and White Cookies

Like New York City, the spiritual home to these cookies, my sources and inspiration for them are the ultimate melting pot: a Seinfeld episode, an email from food maven Arthur Schwartz, a recipe from the legendary Zabar's, and George Greenstein's comprehensive tome, Secrets of a Jewish Baker.

For the cookies:

• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 cup cake flour
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/4 tsp. table salt
• 6 Tbs. whole or low-fat milk
• 1 tsp. vanilla extract
• Grated zest of 1/2 lemon, preferably organic
• 1/2 cup (4 oz.) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 2/3 cup granulated sugar
• 2 large eggs, at room temperature

For the icings:

• 2 cups plus 2 Tbs. powdered sugar, or more if needed
• 4 tsp. light corn syrup
• 1/2 tsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1 tsp. vanilla extract
• 3 Tbs. unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder

To make the cookies:

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven; preheat the oven to 375°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.

In a small bowl, whisk together the all-purpose and cake flours, baking powder, and salt. In another small bowl, mix together the milk, 1 teaspoon vanilla, and lemon zest.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a bowl by hand), beat together the butter and granulated sugar on medium speed until completely smooth. Beat in the eggs one at a time. Stir in half of the flour mixture, followed by the milk mixture, then stir in the remaining flour mixture and beat until the batter is smooth.

Drop 2 Tbs. batter in mounds spaced 2 inches apart on the prepared baking sheets. Bake, rotating the baking sheets midway through baking, until the cookies feel just set in the centers, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely on the baking sheets.

To make the icings:

In a medium bowl, whisk together the 2 cups confectioners' sugar with 2 tsp. of the corn syrup, the lemon juice, the vanilla, and 3 Tbs. water until smooth.

Transfer half of the mixture to a small bowl and whisk in the cocoa and remaining 2 tsp. corn syrup to make the "black" icing. Add up to 2 teaspoons more water, if necessary, to make the icing spreadable; it should not be too thin, so begin by adding 1 teaspoon and add another teaspoon only if needed. Whisk the remaining 2 Tbs. confectioners' sugar into the white icing. The two icings should have the same consistency: thick, but spreadable. (If the white icing is too thin, add a bit more confectioners' sugar.)

With a small icing spatula or a butter knife, spread white icing over one half of the flat (bottom) side of each cookie. Spread black icing over the other half. Let the icing set for a few minutes before serving.

Caramel Cupcakes with Butterscotch Frosting

The burnt-sugar flavor of caramel of these cupcakes pairs so well with mellow notes of the frosting. If you like, top them with toasted chopped opecans (or pecan halves) to balance the sweetness.

• 1/3 cup plus 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 6 oz. (1-1/3 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1/2 tsp. baking powder
• 1/4 tsp. table salt
• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 2 large eggs
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1 recipe Butterscotch Frosting 
• 1 cup finely chopped toasted pecans

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Line 12 standard-size muffin cups with paper liners.

Make the caramel:

Bring 1/3 cup water to a boil in a small saucepan; keep very hot. Put the 1/3 cup sugar in a heavy-based 8-inch skillet or shallow saucepan. Set the pan over medium heat. Shake the pan to level the sugar and leave it alone until it’s about half melted. Shake and swirl the pan to help the sugar melt completely. Cook the melted sugar, constantly swirling or stirring with a wooden spoon, until it bubbles and turns a deep reddish caramel color.

Immediately take the pan off the heat and carefully drizzle the boiling water over the caramel. The mixture will sputter. Return the pan to medium heat; stir constantly with the wooden spoon just until the caramel is completely dissolved. Pour the caramel into a heatproof liquid measuring cup. Pour about 1/3 cup water into the empty caramel pan and return to medium heat until very hot, stirring to dissolve any remaining caramel. Spoon enough of this liquid into the measuring cup with the caramel to bring the level up to 1/2 cup. Let cool until warm. (You can make the caramel hours or even a day ahead. When cool, cover and leave at room temperature.)

Make the cupcakes:

Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt into a small bowl. In a large bowl, beat the butter with a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or a hand mixer) on medium speed until smooth, 30 to 60 seconds. With the mixer running, slowly pour in the remaining 3/4 cup sugar, stop the mixer, and scrape the bowl and beaters. Beat on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, on medium speed until the batter is smooth, 30 to 60 seconds after each addition; scrape the bowl each time. Beat in the vanilla. On low speed, add the dry ingredients in three installments, alternating with the caramel. Mix only until the batter is smooth.

Divide the batter evenly among the prepared muffin cups. (Use two rounded soupspoons: one to pick up the batter, one to push it off.) Don’t smooth the batter. Bake until the cupcakes are golden brown and spring back when gently pressed in the center, 18 to 20 min. Let the cupcakes cool in the tin for 5 min. on a wire rack. Carefully remove the cupcakes from the tin, set them on the rack, and let cool completely.

Spoon a slightly heaping tablespoon of the frosting on top of each cupcake and use the back of the spoon to spread and swirl the frosting. If the frosting starts to stiffen, rewarm it briefly over medium-low heat until it’s spreadable.

Holding a cupcake by its liner, dip it into the chopped pecans, if using, and turn it gently all around to coat the frosting thoroughly with the pecans. Repeat with the remaining cupcakes. (Save any leftover pecans for another use.) Let the frosting set for about 30 min. before serving.

Homemade Oreos

Oreos used to be a mystery to me. My mom never bought commercial sweets, and she certainly never bought the almost-black cookies that looked burnt to her. For the same reason, they never appealed to me either—until one day when I finally bit into one at a friend’s house. Wow. Years later, I created my own version of an Oreo, made with real chocolate and bittersweet cocoa and filled with a creamy mixture of sugar, butter, and a little vanilla. It’s a decidedly grown-up version of the treat. And it’s delicious. Even Mom approves. When she visits, she always requests them for the care package I send home with her.

for the cookies

• 1 cup (2 sticks/228 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
• 3/4 cup (150 grams) granulated sugar
• 1 tsp. vanilla extract
• 1 cup (200 grams) semisweet chocolate chips, melted and cooled slightly
• 1 egg
• 1-1/2 cups (210 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 3/4 cup (90 grams) Dutch-processed cocoa powder
• 1 tsp. kosher salt
• 1/2 tsp.baking soda

For the vanilla cream filling

• 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened 
• 1-2/3 cups confectioners’ sugar
• 1 tsp. vanilla extract
• 1 Tbs. milk
• Pinch of kosher salt

In a medium bowl, whisk together the butter and granulated sugar until well combined. Whisk in the vanilla and chocolate. Add the egg and whisk until thoroughly incorporated.

In another medium bowl, stir together the flour, cocoa powder, salt, and baking soda until well mixed. Using a wooden spoon, stir the flour mixture into the chocolate mixture. The dough will start to seem too floury, and you will find it easiest to switch to mixing it with your hands until it comes together. It will have the consistency of Play-Doh. Let the dough sit at room temperature for about 1 hour to firm up.

Transfer the dough to a 15-inch square sheet of parchment or waxed paper. Using your hands, shape the dough into a rough log about 10 inches long and 2-1/2 inches in diameter. Place the log at the edge of the sheet of parchment paper, and roll the parchment around the log. With the log fully encased in parchment, roll it into a smoother log, keeping it at 2-1/2 inches in diameter. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until firm. The log may settle and sink a bit in the fridge, so reroll it every 15 minutes or so to maintain a nice round log, if you like. If not, your cookies will be more oblong than round, which is not a bad thing taste-wise, though they won’t look like the famous packaged cookie. (At this point, the dough log can be well wrapped in plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or in the freezer for up to 1 month. If the dough is frozen, thaw overnight in the refrigerator before proceeding.)

Position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 325°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or butter it.

Cut the dough log into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Place the slices about 1 inch apart on the prepared baking sheet.

Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the cookies are firm to the touch. Check them frequently after 16 or 17 minutes, poking them in the middle. As soon as they feel firm to the touch, remove them from the oven. You can’t judge by color because they start out black. Let cool on the baking sheet on a wire rack to warm or room temperature. They don’t have to cool completely before you fill them, but you can’t fill them while they are hot.

While the cookies are cooling, make the frosting. Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or a handheld mixer), beat the butter on low speed for about 30 seconds, or until completely smooth and soft. Add the confectioners’ sugar and vanilla and beat until the mixture is perfectly smooth. Add the milk and salt and again beat until smooth. It will look like white spackle and feel about the same—like putty. You can also mix this frosting by hand. Make sure the butter is very soft, and use your hands to mix and knead the confectioners’ sugar into the butter. You should have about 1 cup. (The filling can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days or in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Bring to room temperature before using.)

Scoop about 1 rounded tablespoon of the filling onto the bottom of 1 cookie. Top with a second cookie, bottom side down, then press the cookies together to spread the filling toward the edges. Repeat until all of the cookies are filled.

Caramel Popcorn

At Craft restaurant in Manhattan, where I work as the pastry chef, I like to send out a small bowl of caramel popcorn as a parting gift to guests. I prefer yellow popcorn; it seems to yield the biggest popped kernels.

• Nonstick cooking spray or vegetable oil
• 3 Tbs. vegetable oil, such as peanut or canola
• 1/2 cup popcorn kernels, preferably yellow kernels
• 1-1/2 tsp. baking soda
• 3 cups granulated sugar
• 1-1/2 Tbs. kosher salt
• 1-1/2 oz. (3 Tbs.) cold  unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

Pop the popcorn:

Spray two large heatproof rubber spatulas and a very large metal bowl (at least twice the volume of the popped popcorn) with nonstick cooking spray, or lightly wipe with vegetable oil. Heat the oil in an 8-quart or larger heavy-based stockpot over high heat. After a minute, put a popcorn kernel in the pot and cover. When the kernel pops, the oil is hot enough. Add the rest of the popcorn kernels. Cover the pot and shake it back and forth over the heat to agitate the kernels. Keep moving the pot as the popcorn pops. Remove the pot from the heat when the popping slows almost to a stop (it’s better to have a few unpopped kernels than burnt popcorn) and immediately pour the popped corn into the large metal bowl. Search through the popcorn, removing any unpopped kernels (which fall to the bottom of the bowl) or burnt pieces.

Make the caramel:

Measure the baking soda into a small dish so it’s ready to go. Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment, foil, or nonstick silicone mats. In a 4-quart or larger saucepan, combine the sugar, salt, butter, and 1 cup water. Gently stir with a wooden or metal spoon just enough to immerse the sugar. Brush down the sides of the pot with water and a clean pastry brush. Cook the sugar mixture over high heat without stirring until it melts and bubbles and turns a very light golden caramel color on top; this will take 10 to 20  minutes, depending on your stove. The caramel will be darker than it appears on the surface, so don’t overcook. At this point, remove the pot from the heat.

Brush the sides of the pan clean with a wet pastry brush after you stir the water, sugar, salt, and butter.

Watch the boiling syrup, but don’t stir or swirl it. Once the syrup turns a golden caramel color, take it off the heat.

Working quickly off the heat, thoroughly whisk the baking soda into the caramel. Do this in or near the sink in case it spills over. The baking soda aerates the cararamel, which makes it easier to eat when it’s cool, but causes it to bubble vigorously now, so be careful. Immediately pour the bubbling caramel over the popcorn in the bowl. Only use the caramel that pours out easily; don’t scrape the sides of the pot (the sugar on the sides of the pot crystallizes easily and can cause the caramel to do the same).

Whisk in the baking soda. The caramel will bubble vigorously and quickly rise up in the pan.

Pour the bubbling caramel onto the popcorn, taking care not to get any on yourself. Don’t scrape out the pot.

Using the heatproof spatulas, toss the caramel with the popcorn. When the popcorn is thoroughly coated, pour it onto the lined baking sheets and use the spatulas to pat it into one flat layer. As soon as it’s cool enough to touch, use your hands to break the layer into smaller clusters. Let them cool completely and then store in an airtight container for up to a week.

Toss the popcorn and caramel as you would a salad, using two heatproof spatulas.

Pat the caramel popcorn into a ­single layer on lined baking sheets.

Brown Butter Pumpkin Layer Cake

A gingery glazed nut topping and brown-butter-spiked cream cheese frosting are the finishing touches for this spectacular spiced pumpkin cake. Double the topping if you want to pile the nuts on as shown in the photo.
For more side Thanksgiving dessert recipes visit The Guide to Thanksgiving Dinner.

For the purée

• 2 tsp. vegetable oil
• 1 medium-large Sugar Pie pumpkin, cut in half from stem to bottom and seeded

Tip:

You can substitute canned pumpkin purée for homemade, if you like.

For the cake

• 6 oz. (3/4 cup) unsalted butter; more for the pans
• 9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more for the pans
• 1-1/2 tsp. baking soda
• 1-1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1 tsp. ground ginger
• 3/4 tsp. table salt
• 1/4 tsp. ground cloves
• 1-1/2 cups granulated sugar
• 2/3 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
• 2 large eggs
• 1/3 cup buttermilk

For the topping

• 1-1/2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2/3 cup pecans
• 1/2 cup unsalted, raw, hulled pepitas
• 2 Tbs. firmly packed light brown sugar
• 1/4 tsp. table salt
• 1-1/2 Tbs. chopped crystallized ginger

For the frosting

• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter
• 8 oz. cream cheese, at room temperature
• 1/4 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
• 5 oz. (1-1/4 cups) confectioners’ sugar

Make the pumpkin purée

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Brush a 9x13-inch baking dish with the oil. Put the pumpkin halves in the dish cut side down and bake until tender when pierced with a fork, about 45 minutes. Let cool. Peel the pumpkin and purée the flesh in a food processor until smooth. You’ll need 1-1/2 cups of the purée for the cake. Refrigerate or freeze any remaining purée for another use.

Make the cake

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.


Butter and flour two 9-inch round cake pans with removable bottoms (or butter two 9-inch round cake pans, line the bottoms with parchment, butter the parchment, and flour the pans).


Melt the butter in a heavy-duty 1-quart saucepan over medium heat. Cook, swirling the pan occasionally until the butter turns a nutty golden-brown, about 4 minutes. Pour into a small bowl and let stand until cool but not set, about 15 minutes.

In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, salt, and cloves. In a large bowl, whisk 1-1/2 cups of the pumpkin purée with the granulated sugar, brown sugar, eggs, and buttermilk until very well blended. With a rubber spatula, stir in the flour mixture until just combined. Gently whisk in the brown butter until completely incorporated. Divide the batter evenly between the prepared pans.


Bake the cakes until a tester inserted in the center comes out clean, about 28 minutes. Let the cakes cool in the pans for 10 minutes. Turn the cakes out onto racks, remove the pan bottoms or parchment, and cool completely.

Make the topping

Melt the butter in a heavy-duty 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the pecans and pepitas and cook until the pecans brown slightly and the pepitas begin to pop, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle in the brown sugar and salt and stir until the sugar melts and the nuts are glazed, about 2 minutes. Stir in the ginger. Remove from the heat and let the mixture cool in the skillet.

Make the frosting

Melt the butter in a heavy-duty 1-quart saucepan over medium heat. Cook, swirling the pan occasionally until the butter turns a nutty golden-brown, about 4 minutes. Pour into a small bowl and let stand until the solids settle at the bottom of the bowl, about 5 minutes. Carefully transfer the bowl to the freezer and chill until just firm, about 18 minutes. Using a spoon, carefully scrape the butter from bowl, leaving the browned solids at the bottom; discard the solids.


Using an electric mixer, beat the butter, cream cheese, and brown sugar on medium-high speed until light in color and the brown sugar has dissolved, 2 minutes. Gradually beat in the confectioners’ sugar and continue beating until fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes.

Assemble the cake

Put one cake layer on a cake plate. Spread 1/2 cup of the frosting on the layer. Sprinkle 1/2 cup of the nut mixture over the frosting and top with the second layer. Frost the top and sides of the cake with the remaining frosting. Arrange the remaining topping in a ring 1-1/2 inches in from the edge of the cake and serve

Venezuelan Chocolate Chile Chicken

There are very many versions of chocolate chile chicken, but I chose to include this one as it’s fantastically quick and easy to make. I can’t promise it’s authentic, but it does have the wow factor, and the Venezuelan chocolate adds a deep, rich, glossy finish and flavor.  

• 4 banana shallots, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1 Tbs. light olive oil
• 4 organic chicken thighs
• 4 organic chicken drumsticks
• Juice and zest of 3 oranges 
• 3 fresh red chiles, finely diced
• 2 tsp. dried mulato chiles (or any other mild chiles)
• 1 Tbs. coriander seeds
• 400 grams canned chopped tomatoes
• 1 Tbs. dark muscovado sugar
• 150 grams Venezuelan dark chocolate, broken into pieces
• Bunch of coriander leaves (about 25 g)

Heat the oven to 400°F.

In a casserole dish, sauté the shallots and the garlic in the olive oil, then add the chicken pieces and brown on all sides. Add the orange juice and zest, fresh and dried chiles, coriander seeds, tomatoes and sugar and simmer for 5 minutes. Pop on the lid and cook in the oven for 20 minutes.

Remove from oven, lift out the chicken and stir the chocolate into the remaining sauce. Serve with the sauce smothered over the chicken with generous amounts of chopped or torn coriander leaves.

Slow Cooker Pulled-Pork Sandwiches

Everybody loves a sandwich for dinner, especially if it's one with saucy pulled pork spilling out the sides. You'll need two hands for this easy version of the classic, along with lots of napkins.

• 1 large yellow onion, halved and sliced
• 3/4 cup jarred tomato salsa (medium heat)
• 1/3 cup plus 2 Tbs. cider vinegar
• 1/3 cup packed light brown sugar
• 1 Tbs. ground cumin
• 1 Tbs. chili powder
• Kosher salt
• One 4- to 4-1/2-lb. bone-in pork shoulder, trimmed
• 3 Tbs. tomato paste
• Toasted hamburger buns, for serving

In a 4-quart slow cooker, combine the onion, salsa, 1/3 cup of the vinegar, the brown sugar, cumin, chili powder, and 1 tsp. salt. Add the pork shoulder and turn to coat. Cover the slow cooker and cook until the pork is fork-tender, 5 to 6 hours on high or 7 to 8 hours on low.


Transfer the pork to a cutting board. Using two forks, shred the pork. Discard the bone and fat. Put 1 cup of the juices and onions in a large bowl. Whisk in the tomato paste, the remaining 2 Tbs. vinegar, and 1 tsp. salt. Add the pulled pork and stir to combine. If the pork seems dry, add more juices as needed. Mound the pork on the toasted hamburger buns.