A New York Breakfast

There's something about the combination of silky smoked salmon, soft cream cheese, crunchy onion and juicy tomato that is more than the sum of its parts. In this recipe, excerpted from The Food You Crave, thinly sliced pumpernickel takes the place of the massive bagel (which is equivalent to 4 to 5 pieces of bread) for a sensible breakfast that's simple, sophisticated, modern, and classic all at once.

• 8 pieces thin pumpernickel bread (3-1/2 inches square)
• 1/4 cup whipped cream cheese
• 8 oz. thinly sliced smoked slamon
• 1/2 red onion, thinly sliced
• 1/4 English cucumber, thinly sliced
• 2 medium ripe tomatoes, cored, seeded, and diced
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh chives
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Toast the bread, then spread 1-1/2 tsp. of cream cheese on top of each piece. Put a slice of smoked slamon, a couple of slices of onion, a slice or two of cucumber, and about 1 Tbs. of chopped tomato on top. Sprinkle with the chives and season with salt and pepper.

Apricot Hamantaschen

These filled pastries, tri-cornered to mimic Haman’s hat and served during Purim celebrations, are commonly filled with prunes or poppy seeds, but apricot filling is the author's favorite.

• 4 cups dried apricots
• 3-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1-1/2 tsp. baking powder
• 4 large eggs
• 1-1/2 cups granulated sugar
• 1 tsp. freshly grated lemon zest
• 1 tsp. freshly grated orange zest
• 3/4 cup chopped walnuts (optional)

Place the apricots in a medium bowl. Add boiling water to cover and set aside to soak for 1 hour.

Whisk together the flour and baking powder in a medium bowl. Whisk together 2 of the eggs, 1 cup of the sugar, and the lemon zest and orange zest in a large bowl, whisking until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture is creamy and foamy. Sift the flour mixture into the egg mixture, stirring together with a wooden spoon until combined and a dough forms. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Drain the apricots in a colander, stirring to eliminate the surface water, and then blot dry on paper towels. Transfer them to a chopping board or bowl and finely chop. Mix the apricots, walnuts if using, and the remaining 1/2 cup sugar in a medium bowl, stirring until well combined.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray two baking sheets with nonstick cooking spray. Roll out the dough on a lightly floured board to 1/4-inch thickness. Cut out 3-inch circles (use a biscuit cutter). Place a generous spoonful of filling in the center of each circle, then fold up three sides so the cookie looks like a 3-cornered hat, pinching the dough edges together but leaving the center open as shown in the photo. Gather the dough scraps and reroll; cut and fill in the same way. Arrange the cookies on the prepared baking sheets.

Mix the remaining 2 eggs with 6 Tbs. cool water, whisking until combined. Lightly brush the cookies with the egg wash, which will give them a nice color. Bake until the pastry is golden brown—20 to 25 minutes. Transfer the cookies from the baking sheets to wire racks to cool.

Hummus with Mellow Garlic & Cumin

Tahini blends with chickpeas, lemon, olive oil, and garlic to become the well-known Middle Eastern dip and spread known as hummus. Homemade hummus is simple to make, and it tastes much better than the mediocre and overpriced stuff sold in supermarkets. To avoid the most common pitfall of homemade hummus— way too much raw garlic—I like to gently cook the garlic in the olive oil first so it mellows and infuses the oil. Cumin and a touch of soy sauce give the hummus a savory edge. Serve with seedless cucumber rounds or pita chips or triangles for dipping.

• 1/3 cup plus 1 Tbs extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 2 tsp. ground cumin
• 2 15-1/2-oz. cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed
• 3 Tbs. tahini
• 3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice; more to taste
• 1 Tbs. soy sauce
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt; more as needed

Combine the 1/3 cup oil with the garlic and cumin in a small saucepan. Set over medium-low heat and cook until the garlic softens, about 3 minutes from when you can hear the garlic bubbling quickly. Don’t let the garlic brown. Take the pan off the heat and let cool completely.

Put the chickpeas, tahini, lemon juice, soy sauce, and salt in a food processor. Use a fork to fish the softened garlic out of the oil and transfer it to the processor (reserve the oil). Turn the machine on, let it run for about 20 seconds, and then start slowly pouring the cumin oil through the machine’s feed tube. Be sure to scrape the pan with a rubber spatula to get all of the cumin and oil. Pour 1/4 cup cool water down the tube. Stop the machine, scrape the sides of the bowl, and continue processing until the hummus is creamy and almost smooth. Season to taste with more salt and lemon juice, if you like. For best results, let the hummus sit at room temperature for an hour or two before serving so the flavors can meld. Or better yet, make it a day ahead, refrigerate it and return it to room temperature and adjust the seasonings before serving. To serve, spread hummus in a shallow dish and drizzle with the remaining 1 Tbs. oil.

Sweet Noodle Kugel

At Passover time, this sweet kugel is ideal for a light lunch, especially the day after the large Seder meal. If you are serving it during Passover, make sure to buy noodles that are Kosher for Passover.

• 1/2 cup golden raisins
• 1/2 lb. broad egg noodles
• 4 Tbs. unsalted butter (1/2 stick), melted
• 16 oz. cottage cheese
• 2 cups crème fraîche
• 4 large eggs, beaten
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1 tsp. ground nutmeg

Place the raisins in a small bowl. Add warm water to cover and set aside to soak for 1 hour. Drain in a mesh strainer.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly butter a 9 x 13-inch baking dish. Bring a large pot of salted water to boiling over high heat; stir in the noodles and cook for 6 minutes. Drain the noodles in a colander and transfer to a large bowl. Pour in the butter and toss until the noodles are coated.

Mix the cottage cheese, crème fraîche, eggs, and vanilla in a medium bowl; stir in the sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Add to the noodles and stir until combined; stir in the raisins. Spoon the noodle mixture into the prepared baking dish. Bake until the filling is set and the top is golden brown—30 to 45 minutes.

Chicken Noodle Soup with Carrots & Peas

The ultimate in soothing soups, chicken noodle works magic with its rich, full-flavored broth. Even during their very brief season, I find that English garden peas can be starchy, so here I suggest using frozen peas, which are consistently sweet and tender. You can thaw them ahead or defrost them right in the hot broth.

• 7 cups Golden Chicken Broth
• 2 boneless, skinless whole chicken breasts, cut into 1x1/2-inch strips or 1/2-inch dice
• 1-1/2 cups diced or julienned carrots
• 3 oz. (about 1-1/2 cups) dried egg noodles
• 1-1/2 cups frozen peas
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano for garnish (optional)

Bring the broth to a simmer in a large, heavy saucepan. Add the chicken, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, and poach until the chicken is firm and just cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the chicken and, if the broth is cloudy, strain the liquid through a cheesecloth-lined strainer (this step isn’t critical—it’s just for looks).

Bring the broth back to a simmer in the saucepan, and add the carrots, cooking until they’re just tender, about 7 minutes. Remove them with a slotted spoon and set aside with the chicken.

Meanwhile, bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook the egg noodles until they’re al dente. Drain them and set aside.

When you’re ready to serve the soup, bring the broth to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer. Add the peas, the cooked carrots, and the chicken, and simmer until everything is heated through. Add the cooked noodles, the parsley, and the thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with the Parmigiano, if you like.

Matzo Ball Soup

  The matzo balls can be cooked ahead and then warmed in the broth before serving. To turn this into a more filling meal, you could add cooked chicken, peas, or carrots. But for the classic, less is more. The recipe doubles or triples easily. To render chicken fat, use fat taken from the cavity of a chicken (roasters have a lot), cut into 1-inch pieces, melt over low heat, and then strain.

• 4 large eggs
• 1/4 cup rendered chicken fat or fat reserved from the chicken broth, at room temperature
• 1 tsp. kosher salt
• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground white pepper
• 5 oz. (1-1/4 cups) matzo meal
• 7 cups Golden Chicken Broth
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and 1/3 cup cold water. Add the rendered or reserved chicken fat and whisk until the fat blends in. Mix in the salt and pepper. Gradually but quickly stir in the matzo meal with a spoon; the mixture will be thick and stiff, like muffin batter. Don't overmix. Chill for at least 1 hour or up to 3 hours.

Line a baking sheet with parchment or waxed paper and fill a bowl with cold water. Dip a large soupspoon in the water, and gently scoop up the chilled matzo mixture and shape it with your hands into 12 medium balls (about 1-3/4 inches in diameter) or 18 smaller ones (about 1-1/4 inches in diameter), being careful not to compact them. Put the matzo balls on the lined baking sheet. Cook immediately or refrigerate for up to 1 hour.

To cook the matzo balls, bring 1 or 2 large pots of salted water to a boil. Drop in the matzo balls, cover the pots, and reduce the heat after the water returns to a boil. Simmer, covered, until the matzo balls have doubled in size and have lightened all the way through (cut one in half to check) 30 to 40 minutes; drain. Cooked matzo balls can be held at room temperature for several hours.

To serve, bring the chicken broth to a boil. Taste for salt and pepper. Add the matzo balls and heat until they're hot in the middle, 8 to 10 minutes. With a slotted spoon, put 2 medium or 3 small matzo balls in a warm soup bowl. Ladle in hot broth and sprinkle generously with the parsley. Serve right away.

Breakfast Casserole

Lightly sweet, egg-rich challah makes this creamy egg casserole even more full-flavored. Baking it in a hot-water bath allows it to cook gently and retain its moistness. The recipe, adapted from our TV show Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking, has been simplified for the home cook.

• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter, plus more for the baking dish
• 1 lb. sweet Italian sausage, casings removed
• 1 lb. asparagus, tough ends removed; sliced into 1/4-inch pieces
• 4 cups packed baby spinach, long stems removed (about 3 oz.)
• 1/2 cup finely chopped whole scallions (about 5)
• 4stalks green garlic (root ends trimmed and any tough green parts
  discarded), cut into 1/4-inch pieces, or 2 cloves garlic, minced, and 3
  more whole scallions, chopped
• Kosher salt
• 1/2 lb. brioche or challah bread, cut into 3/4-inch cubes (from five to six 3/4-inch slices)
• 8 large eggs, preferably organic
• 1-1/2 cups heavy cream
• 1 Tbs. fresh marjoram, chopped
• Freshly ground black pepper

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Butter a 2-1/2- to 3-quart shallow baking dish (about 2 inches deep; preferably with handles) and set aside.

Have a kettle of hot water ready, and a larger baking pan in which the baking dish fits comfortably with enough room to remove the dish easily with silicone oven mitts.

In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat, add the sausage and cook, stirring and breaking up the meat into small pieces, until cooked through, 6 to 7 minutes. Remove to a large bowl and set aside.

In the same skillet over medium heat, melt 1 Tbs. butter. Add all the vegetables and 1/4 tsp. salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and bright green, about 5 minutes. Add the vegetable mixture and the cubed bread to the bowl with the sausage and mix well.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, marjoram, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Add the egg mixture to the bowl with the sausage-vegetable mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until all the ingredients are combined. Set the buttered baking dish inside the larger baking pan and pour the contents of the bowl into the baking dish. Cover the baking dish with a piece of foil cut slightly larger than the size of the dish.

Place the baking pan in the oven, then pour enough hot water from the kettle to come halfway up the sides of the baking dish to create a water bath.

Bake for 1 hour. If the mixture is still loose, remove the foil from the baking dish and bake for an additional 15 minutes or until the center is firm.

Remove the pan from the oven and carefully remove the dish from the water bath using silicone oven mitts.

Let the casserole cool for 15 minutes before serving.

Matzo-Stuffed Cornish Game Hens

For some reason, you never see Cornish hens in restaurants anymore. Too bad, because this recipe, stuffing the birds with matzo and chicken livers and serving them with chicken jus (a brown chicken stock reduced to a glaze consistency), is a winner.

For the roasted chicken jus

• 2 lb. uncooked chicken bones
• 1 Tbs. canola oil
• 2 celery ribs, chopped
• 1 medium yellow onion, chopped
• 1 carrot, chopped
• 2 garlic cloves
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme
• 12 black peppercorns
• 1 cup dry red wine (such as Cabernet Sauvignon—an inexpensive one is fine)
• 1 Tbs. tomato paste
• 1 tsp. kosher salt

For the stuffing

• 1 cup chicken livers (about 7 oz.)
• 1/4 cup canola oil
• 1 large yellow onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 3 celery ribs, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh sage
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
• 1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 3 matzo crackers (full sheets), crushed into pieces

For the hens

• 4 Cornish game hens
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 4 Tbs. unsalted butter (1/2 stick), cut into small pieces
• Kosher or fine sea salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 carrots, coarsely chopped
• 2 celery ribs, coarsely chopped
• 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped

Tip:

To make this dish for a kosher meat meal, dot thehens with margarine instead of butter, or brush them with canola or
olive oil.

Make the jus

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Place the bones in a roasting pan and drizzle with the oil. Roast, stirring several times so they cook evenly, until the bones turn light golden-brown—30 to 40 minutes total. Leaving the oven on, transfer the bones to a paper towel-lined plate to drain and wipe the pan dry. Return the roasted bones to the pan; add the celery, onions, carrots, garlic, thyme, and peppercorns. Pour in the wine and stir in the tomato paste and salt. If appropriate, add water to cover. Return the pan to the oven and cook for 4 hours, adding water as necessary to keep the bones covered.

Pour the liquid from the pan through a mesh strainer into a small saucepan; discard the bones. Bring the liquid to boiling over medium heat and boil gently until it is reduced to 2-1/2 cups, skimming off any impurities. Transfer the jus to a storage container.

Make the stuffing

To clean the livers, use the tip of a sharp paring knife to remove the sinew that runs into the meat and trim off any yellow spots or unevenly colored areas. Rinse the livers under cold running water and pat them dry thoroughly with paper towels. Coarsely chop the livers into 1/2-inch pieces. Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onions, celery, and garlic, cook for 2 minutes; lower the heat to medium-low and continue to cook until the vegetables are translucent and begin to soften—6 to 8 minutes. Add the livers, sage, salt, and pepper; sauté until the livers are cooked—about 5 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Place the crushed matzos in a medium bowl; add the liver mixture and mix well with a wooden spoon. Taste the stuffing and add more salt or pepper if you wish

Stuff and roast the hens

Trim any excess fat from the hens; wash them under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Set aside.

Mix the carrots, celery, and onions in the bottom of a roasting pan large enough to hold all 4 hens.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Loosely fill the cavity of each hen with stuffing. Drizzle 1-1/2 tsp. oil over each hen and rub into skin. Sprinkle each hen with salt and pepper. Truss the hens with twine (tie the legs together, tuck the wings under the backs). Place the hens, breast up, in the roasting pan, on the bed of chopped vegetables. Dot each with the butter, dividing equally. (If there is extra stuffing, place it in an appropriate size casserole or ramekin; add it to the oven with the hens about halfway through the roasting time.)

Place the pan in the oven and roast for 10 minutes, lower the heat to 325°F. Roast for 40 minutes more, until done (the internal temperature of the thigh should register 160° on an instant read thermometer), checking from time to time that the hens are browning evenly and rotating the pan 180 degrees about halfway through the cooking time.

Make the sauce and serve

Transfer the hens to a cutting board and cover with foil to keep warm. Transfer the vegetables and pan juices to a small saucepan and add 1 cup of the roasted chicken jus. Bring to simmering over medium heat; simmer for 10 minutes. Strain the sauce through a fine mesh strainer into another pan or serving pitcher; discard the solids and keep the sauce warm.

Slice the thighs, legs, and breast meat from each hen—as you would when carving a turkey. Carefully spoon the stuffing from inside each hen and place on individual plates. Arrange the meat from one hen on top of the stuffing on each plate. Spoon the sauce over the top and serve.

Slow-Cooker Braised Apricot Chicken with Carrots

This flavorful stew is delicious served over couscous or brown rice pilaf with fresh cilantro or parsley. Feel free to use oil for the butter.

• Zest of 1 lemon (yellow part only)
• 1 lb. carrots, peeled and cut into 1⁄3- by 2-inch pieces
• 30 whole dried apricots (preferably with sulfur, for a pretty color)
• 1⁄4 cup plus 1 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1⁄4 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1⁄4 tsp. ground coriander
• 1⁄8 tsp. ground ginger
• 1⁄8 tsp. ground cardamom
• 1⁄8 tsp. ground cayenne pepper
• 1 tsp. kosher salt
• 20 grinds black pepper
• 2-1⁄2 lb. bone-in, skinless chicken thighs (about 8 thighs)
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2-1⁄4 cups finely chopped white onions (about 2 small)
• 1-1⁄2 Tbs. minced garlic
• 2 Tbs. tomato paste
• 1 cup apricot nectar, such as Looza
• 1⁄4 cup fresh-squeezed, strained lemon juice
• 1⁄2 cup low-sodium chicken stock
• 1⁄4 cup toasted pine nuts, for garnish (optional)
• 1⁄4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro, parsley, or mint leaves, for garnish (optional)

Tip:

To adapt a slow-cooker recipe to a conventional oven, follow these guidelines: add more liquid, to accommodate for greater evaporation; bring the dish to a boil over high heat in a Dutch oven, then cover the pot and put in a 350°F oven. Plan on the dish taking roughly half the time to cook in the oven as it would in the slow cooker.

Place the lemon peel on a piece of cheesecloth, form into a “purse,” and secure with kitchen twine. Add it to the slow cooker, along with the carrots and apricots. Place the flour and all of the spices in a large bowl and mix well. Add the chicken and coat well, shaking off the excess and reserving any remaining flour.

Heat 1 Tbs. of oil and the butter in a 10-inch sauté pan over medium high heat. When the butter is melted, brown the chicken in two batches, about 11 minutes total; add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil if the pan becomes dry. Transfer the chicken to the slow cooker.

Add the onions and garlic to the hot pan, and cook until the onions are softened, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon, about 3 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and reserved flour and whisk well until the flour disappears, about a minute. Add the nectar, lemon juice, and stock; bring to a boil. Boil for 2 minutes, then pour the sauce over the chicken in the slow cooker. Submerge the chicken.

Cover and cook on low until the chicken is cooked through and the carrots are tender, 5 to 6 hours. Serve, garnishing each portion with nuts and herbs, if desired.

Cheese Blintzes with Macerated Strawberries

The light, eggy blintz is as much a part of traditional Jewish cooking as the crêpe is to the French. For this rendition, fresh strawberries steeped in orange juice are served over the cheese-filled crêpes, but you could also top with blueberries or caramelized apple slices.

For the crêpes

• 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
• 4 large eggs, beaten
• 2-1/2 cups whole milk
• 2 Tbs. melted butter
• 1/4 tsp. salt

For the macerated strawberries

• 1 lb. fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced
• 1 tsp. fresh orange juice
• 1 Tbs. sugar

For the farmer cheese filling

• 1 large egg
• 1 lb. farmer cheese
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• 2 Tbs. unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1/8 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

For cooking and assembly

• 2 Tbs. butter, more for the pan

Make the batter

Put the flour, eggs, milk, butter, and salt in a blender and blend on high speed until smooth, pausing once or twice to scrape down the sides of the blender with a rubber spatula, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl, cover, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours.

Macerate the strawberries

In a large bowl, combine the strawberries, orange juice, and sugar, and stir gently to mix. Cover and refrigerate for 2 to 24 hours.

Make the cheese filling

In a large bowl, lightly beat the egg with a whisk. Add the cheese and whisk to combine. Add the sugar, flour, and lemon zest and whisk to combine.

Cook the crêpes

Heat a crêpe pan with an 8-inch base or a 10-inch nonstick frying pan with an 8-inch base over medium-high heat until it’s hot enough for a drop of water to sizzle. Using a folded paper towel, grease the pan with about 1 tsp. butter. The butter should sizzle upon contact but not instantly turn brown. If it does, reduce the heat as necessary.

Using a ladle or measuring cup, pour 1/4 cup of the batter into the center of the pan while simultaneously lifting the pan from the heat and tilting and turning it in all directions so the batter spreads evenly across the bottom in a thin circle. If the crêpe has any holes in it, quickly add a few drops of batter to fill them in.

Cook until the edges begin to dry and lift from the sides of the pan and the bottom is nicely browned (lift up an edge with a small silicone spatula or butter knife), about 1 minute. Use the spatula and your fingers to flip the crêpe over. Cook until the second side is browned, about 15 seconds more.

Slide the crêpe from the pan onto a large plate or cooling rack. Repeat
with the remaining batter, adjusting the heat and spreading more butter
in the pan every two or three crêpes, or whenever the pan begins to looka bit dry. You can stack the crêpes on the plate as they’re done; they
won’t stick. The crêpes will soften as they cool. (Your first crêpes maynot turn out perfectly but will still be delicious!)

Assemble the crêpes

Choose the 12 best-looking crêpes (save any remaining for another use). Spoon a heaping Tbs. of the filling into the center of each crêpe. Fold one long edge in over the filling, followed by the two short edges, and finally, the second long edge (like a burrito). Arrange the blintzes seam side down on a large plate or baking sheet. (The blintzes can be prepared several hours ahead up to this point. Keep refrigerated, covered with plastic wrap, until ready to heat and serve.)

Melt 2 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch nonstick frying pan over medium-low heat. Arrange half of the blintzes in the pan seam side up in a single layer and cook until light brown on the bottom, 2 minutes. Flip and continue to cook until light brown on the second side, 1 to 2 minutes more. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined tray. Repeat with the remaining 2 Tbs. butter and blintzes. To serve, arrange two blintzes on each of six plates and top with the strawberries.

Challah

If you like, sprinkle poppy or sesame seeds onto the braid after brushing it with egg wash; both are traditional. To easily measure the honey, first measure the oil in a 1-cup measure. The oil will coat the cup and will let the honey just slip right out.Video:Watch Maggie Glezer braid a loaf of challah step-by-step.

• 2 tsp. instant yeast (Red Star Quick Rise, SAF Perfect Rise, Fleischmann’s Rapid Rise or Fleischmann’s Bread Machine Yeast)
• 16-3/4 oz. (3-1/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour (Hecker’s, Gold Medal, or Pillsbury); more as needed
• 1/4 cup warm water
• 3 large eggs
• 1/4 cup vegetable oil
• 1/4 cup honey
• 1-1/2 tsp. table salt

For the glaze:

• 1 egg, lightly beaten
• Sesame or poppy seeds for sprinkling (optional)

In a large bowl, mix the yeast with 1/2 cup of the flour. Add the warm water, stir, and let this mixture, called a sponge, sit until it starts to puff up, 15-to 20-minutes. Add the eggs, oil, honey, and salt; stir until well combined. The sponge will remain lumpy—this is fine. Add the remaining flour and mix the dough in the bowl until all the ingredients are combined. Turn the dough out onto a work surface and knead until fairly smooth, about 2 minutes. The dough should feel very firm and will be hard to knead. If it’s soft and sticky, add more flour until it’s very firm. Transfer the dough to a large, clean container and cover it well. Let it rise until doubled in bulk and very soft to the touch, about 2 hours, depending on the room temperature. Line an insulated baking sheet with parchment or oiled foil. If you don’t have an insulated sheet, stack two sheets together (this keeps the bottom of the bread from overbrowning during baking).

To shape the dough:

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and sprinkle a little more flour over it. Spread and flatten the dough a bit, but don’t worry about punching it down. Cut it into six equal pieces. Set aside the dough pieces, cover them lightly with plastic, and brush all the flour off the work surface. Have a small bowl of water handy. Using no flour, roll a piece of dough with a rolling pin into a very thin sheet, between 1/8 and 1/4 inch thick (don’t worry about making a rectangle; an amoeba-type shape is fine). The dough may stick to the work surface; this is all right—just nudge it gently with a dough scraper. Tightly roll up the sheet like a carpet to form a strand. Roll the strand back and forth between your hands until it’s thin, very even, and 12 to 15 inches long. At the ends of the strand, angle the outer edge of your hands into the work surface as you’re rolling to make the ends pointy and the strand thicker in the middle (This will help you get a football-shaped loaf). The strand needs to grip the work surface slightly during this rolling; the “grab” will help as you roll. If the strand is too slick, very lightly dampen it with water to help it grip the work surface better. Repeat the rolling out, rolling up, and elongating steps with the remaining five pieces of dough, rolling them out to the same length. Lightly sprinkle all the strands with flour to prevent them from sticking to one another during proofing. Arrange the strands parallel to one another. At one end, gather and pinch the strands very tightly together. Weight the end with a heavy canister to keep the braid from moving and to leave your hands free, and braid closely, following the illustrations below. Lightly tap each end of the loaf with your palms to tuck it under the loaf.

1. Move the second-to-the-right strand to the far-left position.

2. Move the far-right strand left over two strands, to the center position (spread the strands apart to make room).

3. Move the new second-to-the-left strand over to the far right position.

4. Move the far-left strand (the same strand you moved in step 1) over two strands to the center position. Now repeat the steps.

Transfer the braid to the lined baking sheet and cover it loosely but thoroughly with plastic wrap. Let proof until doubled in bulk and the loaf remains indented when lightly pressed, about 2 hours, depending on room temperature. (If in doubt, let the dough proof more rather than less.)

To bake:

Position an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. Just before baking, brush the dough with the beaten egg. Sprinkle with sesame seeds or poppy seeds, if using. With a thin wooden skewer, poke the bread deeply all over (the holes will prevent air pockets and help the bread keep its shape during baking). Bake for 20 minutes. Rotate the challah 180 degrees and bake until the bread is a dark, burnished brown, about another 15 minutes. (If the challah is browning too rapidly cover it loosely with foil and let it finish baking. Don’t remove the loaf too soon, as you’ll risk underbaking.) Let cool thoroughly on a rack.

Matzo Brei with Fresh Chives

Matzo brei is a simple dish of eggs, butter, and matzo (an unleavened cracker-like bread). Although typically served during Passover, it makes a delicious anytime meal. If using salted matzo, halve the amount of salt in the recipe.

• 4 pieces unsalted matzo (about 4 oz.)
• 5 large eggs, beaten
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh chives
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 5 Tbs. unsalted butter

In a small saucepan, bring 1-1/4 cups of water to a boil. In a large bowl, crumble the matzo into 1-inch (or smaller) pieces and pour the boiling water over them. Let sit until the matzo softens but doesn’t turn to mush, about 20 seconds. Using a large slotted spoon, press the matzo against the bowl and pour off any excess liquid (there may not be any). Stir in the eggs, chives, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.


Melt the butter in a 10- to 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When the foam starts to subside, add the matzo mixture. Use a heatproof spatula to gently scramble and break up the eggs, cooking until they are softly set, 3 to 4 minutes. Season with more salt and pepper and serve immediately.

Breakfast Casserole

Lightly sweet, egg-rich challah makes this creamy egg casserole even more full-flavored. Baking it in a hot-water bath allows it to cook gently and retain its moistness. The recipe, adapted from our TV show Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking, has been simplified for the home cook.

• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter, plus more for the baking dish
• 1 lb. sweet Italian sausage, casings removed
• 1 lb. asparagus, tough ends removed; sliced into 1/4-inch pieces
• 4 cups packed baby spinach, long stems removed (about 3 oz.)
• 1/2 cup finely chopped whole scallions (about 5)
• 4stalks green garlic (root ends trimmed and any tough green parts
  discarded), cut into 1/4-inch pieces, or 2 cloves garlic, minced, and 3
  more whole scallions, chopped
• Kosher salt
• 1/2 lb. brioche or challah bread, cut into 3/4-inch cubes (from five to six 3/4-inch slices)
• 8 large eggs, preferably organic
• 1-1/2 cups heavy cream
• 1 Tbs. fresh marjoram, chopped
• Freshly ground black pepper

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Butter a 2-1/2- to 3-quart shallow baking dish (about 2 inches deep; preferably with handles) and set aside.

Have a kettle of hot water ready, and a larger baking pan in which the baking dish fits comfortably with enough room to remove the dish easily with silicone oven mitts.

In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat, add the sausage and cook, stirring and breaking up the meat into small pieces, until cooked through, 6 to 7 minutes. Remove to a large bowl and set aside.

In the same skillet over medium heat, melt 1 Tbs. butter. Add all the vegetables and 1/4 tsp. salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and bright green, about 5 minutes. Add the vegetable mixture and the cubed bread to the bowl with the sausage and mix well.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, marjoram, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Add the egg mixture to the bowl with the sausage-vegetable mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until all the ingredients are combined. Set the buttered baking dish inside the larger baking pan and pour the contents of the bowl into the baking dish. Cover the baking dish with a piece of foil cut slightly larger than the size of the dish.

Place the baking pan in the oven, then pour enough hot water from the kettle to come halfway up the sides of the baking dish to create a water bath.

Bake for 1 hour. If the mixture is still loose, remove the foil from the baking dish and bake for an additional 15 minutes or until the center is firm.

Remove the pan from the oven and carefully remove the dish from the water bath using silicone oven mitts.

Let the casserole cool for 15 minutes before serving.

Goat Cheese Blintzes

For the crepes:

• 2 large eggs, at room temperature
• 1 cup regular or low-fat goat milk (or cow milk, if you must)
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1/4 tsp. salt
• Goat butter (or unsalted cow butter, if you must), for greasing the skillet

For the filling:

• 8 ounces fresh chevre or soft goat cheese
• 1 large egg yolk
• 2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 4 Tbs. goat butter (or unsalted cow butter, if you must)

Make the crepes:

Whir the two eggs and the milk in a blender (preferably) or a food processor fitted with the chopping blade until creamy. Add the flour and salt; blend or process until smooth.

Lightly grease an 8-inch nonstick skillet with a little butter on some wadded up paper towel. Set the skillet over medium heat, let it warm up a bit, then pour in 2 Tbs. of the flour batter. Swirl and shake the skillet so that the batter evenly covers its bottom. Cook until set, about 30 seconds. Flip the crepe, then cook for another 30 seconds or so, just until firm. Transfer the crepe from the skillet to a plate or cutting board; cover with a clean kitchen towel. Butter the skillet again, add 2 more Tbs. of batter, and keep going, repeating ad nauseam, until you have 16 crepes.

Fill and cook the blintzes

For the filling, stir the fresh chèvre or soft goat cheese, egg yolk, sugar, and vanilla in a big bowl until creamy. Set one of the crepes on your work surface, mound 2 tsp. of this cheese mixture in the middle of the crepe, flatten the filling a little, fold the two sides of the crepe to your left and right over the filling, fold up the bottom, the part nearest you. Now roll the crepe away from you so that it folds up into a little packet. Set aside under a clean kitchen towel and continue filling all the crepes.

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add 2 Tbs. of the butter and about half the blintzes. Fry them on both sides until crisp and brown, about 4 minutes in all, turning once. Transfer these to a serving platter, add the remaining 2 Tbs. butter to the skillet, and fry the rest of them.

Matzo Brei with Fresh Chives

Matzo brei is a simple dish of eggs, butter, and matzo (an unleavened cracker-like bread). Although typically served during Passover, it makes a delicious anytime meal. If using salted matzo, halve the amount of salt in the recipe.

• 4 pieces unsalted matzo (about 4 oz.)
• 5 large eggs, beaten
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh chives
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 5 Tbs. unsalted butter

In a small saucepan, bring 1-1/4 cups of water to a boil. In a large bowl, crumble the matzo into 1-inch (or smaller) pieces and pour the boiling water over them. Let sit until the matzo softens but doesn’t turn to mush, about 20 seconds. Using a large slotted spoon, press the matzo against the bowl and pour off any excess liquid (there may not be any). Stir in the eggs, chives, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.


Melt the butter in a 10- to 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When the foam starts to subside, add the matzo mixture. Use a heatproof spatula to gently scramble and break up the eggs, cooking until they are softly set, 3 to 4 minutes. Season with more salt and pepper and serve immediately.

Hummus with Mellow Garlic & Cumin

Tahini blends with chickpeas, lemon, olive oil, and garlic to become the well-known Middle Eastern dip and spread known as hummus. Homemade hummus is simple to make, and it tastes much better than the mediocre and overpriced stuff sold in supermarkets. To avoid the most common pitfall of homemade hummus— way too much raw garlic—I like to gently cook the garlic in the olive oil first so it mellows and infuses the oil. Cumin and a touch of soy sauce give the hummus a savory edge. Serve with seedless cucumber rounds or pita chips or triangles for dipping.

• 1/3 cup plus 1 Tbs extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 2 tsp. ground cumin
• 2 15-1/2-oz. cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed
• 3 Tbs. tahini
• 3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice; more to taste
• 1 Tbs. soy sauce
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt; more as needed

Combine the 1/3 cup oil with the garlic and cumin in a small saucepan. Set over medium-low heat and cook until the garlic softens, about 3 minutes from when you can hear the garlic bubbling quickly. Don’t let the garlic brown. Take the pan off the heat and let cool completely.

Put the chickpeas, tahini, lemon juice, soy sauce, and salt in a food processor. Use a fork to fish the softened garlic out of the oil and transfer it to the processor (reserve the oil). Turn the machine on, let it run for about 20 seconds, and then start slowly pouring the cumin oil through the machine’s feed tube. Be sure to scrape the pan with a rubber spatula to get all of the cumin and oil. Pour 1/4 cup cool water down the tube. Stop the machine, scrape the sides of the bowl, and continue processing until the hummus is creamy and almost smooth. Season to taste with more salt and lemon juice, if you like. For best results, let the hummus sit at room temperature for an hour or two before serving so the flavors can meld. Or better yet, make it a day ahead, refrigerate it and return it to room temperature and adjust the seasonings before serving. To serve, spread hummus in a shallow dish and drizzle with the remaining 1 Tbs. oil.

Slow-Cooker Braised Apricot Chicken with Carrots

This flavorful stew is delicious served over couscous or brown rice pilaf with fresh cilantro or parsley. Feel free to use oil for the butter.

• Zest of 1 lemon (yellow part only)
• 1 lb. carrots, peeled and cut into 1⁄3- by 2-inch pieces
• 30 whole dried apricots (preferably with sulfur, for a pretty color)
• 1⁄4 cup plus 1 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1⁄4 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1⁄4 tsp. ground coriander
• 1⁄8 tsp. ground ginger
• 1⁄8 tsp. ground cardamom
• 1⁄8 tsp. ground cayenne pepper
• 1 tsp. kosher salt
• 20 grinds black pepper
• 2-1⁄2 lb. bone-in, skinless chicken thighs (about 8 thighs)
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2-1⁄4 cups finely chopped white onions (about 2 small)
• 1-1⁄2 Tbs. minced garlic
• 2 Tbs. tomato paste
• 1 cup apricot nectar, such as Looza
• 1⁄4 cup fresh-squeezed, strained lemon juice
• 1⁄2 cup low-sodium chicken stock
• 1⁄4 cup toasted pine nuts, for garnish (optional)
• 1⁄4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro, parsley, or mint leaves, for garnish (optional)

Tip:

To adapt a slow-cooker recipe to a conventional oven, follow these guidelines: add more liquid, to accommodate for greater evaporation; bring the dish to a boil over high heat in a Dutch oven, then cover the pot and put in a 350°F oven. Plan on the dish taking roughly half the time to cook in the oven as it would in the slow cooker.

Place the lemon peel on a piece of cheesecloth, form into a “purse,” and secure with kitchen twine. Add it to the slow cooker, along with the carrots and apricots. Place the flour and all of the spices in a large bowl and mix well. Add the chicken and coat well, shaking off the excess and reserving any remaining flour.

Heat 1 Tbs. of oil and the butter in a 10-inch sauté pan over medium high heat. When the butter is melted, brown the chicken in two batches, about 11 minutes total; add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil if the pan becomes dry. Transfer the chicken to the slow cooker.

Add the onions and garlic to the hot pan, and cook until the onions are softened, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon, about 3 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and reserved flour and whisk well until the flour disappears, about a minute. Add the nectar, lemon juice, and stock; bring to a boil. Boil for 2 minutes, then pour the sauce over the chicken in the slow cooker. Submerge the chicken.

Cover and cook on low until the chicken is cooked through and the carrots are tender, 5 to 6 hours. Serve, garnishing each portion with nuts and herbs, if desired.

Potato Pancakes Stuffed with Duxelles

• 2-1/2 lb. russet (Idaho) potatoes (4 medium), peeled, cut in quarters lengthwise and reserved in cold water
• 2-1/2 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• About 3/4 cup corn oil
• 1 medium yellow onion, diced (about 1-1/4 cups)
• 1 large egg
• 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1 recipe Duxelles 
• 2 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh chives

Heat the oven to 250°F.

Set a colander in the sink. Grate the potatoes in a food processor fi tted with a medium (4 mm) grating disc. Transfer the potatoes to the colander and sprinkle with 2 tsp. of the salt. Toss and let the potatoes drain for 10 minutes, tossing occasionally.

Meanwhile, replace the processor’s grating disc with the chopping blade. Add 1 Tbs. of the oil and the onion, egg, flour, baking powder, pepper, and the remaining 1/2 tsp. salt to the food processor bowl.

In batches, squeeze the liquid from the shredded potatoes with your hands. Put the potatoes in the food processor with the other ingredients and process for 10 seconds. Stop the machine, scrape the bowl with a rubber spatula, and process until the mixture is fi nely chopped, 10 to 15 seconds more. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl.

Have ready a large plate lined with paper towels. In a 10-inch skillet, heat 1/8 inch of the remaining oil over medium heat until the surface of the oil shimmers very slightly. With a soupspoon, carefully ladle three or four mounds of the potato mixture into the oil and spread them slightly with the back of the spoon until they are about 3-1/2 inches in diameter. (The oil should be bubbling gently around the pancakes.) On top of each pancake, drop a heaping spoonful of the duxelles and flatten slightly.

Top with an additional spoonful of the potato mixture and flatten gently once again.

With the tip of your spatula, gently coax the sides of the tops and bottoms of the pancakes together.

Cook until the pancakes are a deep golden color, 2 to 3 minutes. Lift the pancakes with a slotted metal spatula and carefully turn them over. Continue to cook until the second side is a deep golden color, about 2 minutes more. Using the spatula, transfer the pancakes to the paper-towel-lined plate and blot well with more paper towels. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Use the spatula to transfer the pancakes to a baking sheet; keep them warm in the oven while you finish the rest. Continue to add oil between batches as needed to maintain the 1/8-inch level of the oil. Serve the pancakes sprinkled with the chives.

Vegetarian Chopped Liver

This rich mushroom-walnut pâté is especially good with pumpernickel or rye bread.

• 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 1 large yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced into half moons
• 2 fresh thyme sprigs
• 3/4 lb. cremini (baby bella) mushrooms, cut into medium dice (4-1/2 cups)
• 1/2 lb. shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, caps cut into medium dice (2 cups)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. dry sherry
• 1 cup walnuts, toasted
• 1 small clove garlic, minced
• 1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice; more to taste
• 1/4 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
• 2 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and roughly chopped
• Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
• Flaky sea salt, for garnish
• Thinly sliced scallion greens or chives, for garnish

Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and thyme and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is dark brown, 15 to 20 minutes—it should be darker than golden, but not black. Stir in the cremini and shiitake, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper; cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are soft and golden and the liquid they release has evaporated, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the sherry and cook, scraping up the browned bits from the pan, until almost evaporated, about 1 minute. Let the mixture cool to room temperature.


Transfer half of the mushroom mixture to a food processor. Add the walnuts, garlic, lemon juice, zest, 3/4 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Process until smooth, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the remaining mushroom mixture and the eggs. Pulse until coarsely chopped. Season to taste with more salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Serve in a crock or bowl or mounded on a platter, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with flaky sea salt and scallion greens or chives.

Classic Potato Pancakes (Latkes)

• 2-1/2 lb. russet (Idaho) potatoes (4 medium), peeled, cut in quarters lengthwise, and reserved in cold water
• 2-1/2 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• About 3/4 cup corn oil
• 1 medium yellow onion, diced (about 1-1/4 cups)
• 1 large egg
• 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• Sour cream and applesauce, for serving (optional)

Heat the oven to 250°F.

Set a colander in the sink. Grate the potatoes in a food processor fitted with a medium (4 mm) grating disc. Transfer them to the colander and sprinkle with 2 tsp. of the salt. Toss and let drain for 10 minutes, tossing occasionally.

Meanwhile, replace the processor’s grating disc with the chopping blade. Add 1 Tbs. of the oil and the onion, egg, flour, baking powder, pepper, and the remaining 1/2 tsp. salt to the food processor bowl.

In batches, squeeze the liquid from the shredded potatoes with your hands. Put the potatoes in the food processor with the other ingredients and process for 10 seconds. Stop the machine, scrape the bowl with a rubber spatula, and process until the mixture is finely chopped, 10 to 15 seconds more. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl.

Have ready a large plate lined with paper towels. In a 10-inch skillet, heat 1/8 inch of the remaining oil over medium heat until the surface of the oil shimmers very slightly. With a soupspoon, carefully ladle four mounds of the potato mixture into the oil and spread them slightly with the back of the spoon until they are about 3-1/2 inches in diameter. (The oil should be bubbling gently around the pancakes.) Cook until the pancakes are a deep golden color, 2 to 3 minutes. Lift the pancakes with a slotted metal spatula and carefully turn them over. Continue to cook until the second side is a deep golden color, about 2 minutes more. Using the spatula, transfer the pancakes to the paper-towel-lined plate and blot well with more paper towels. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Use the spatula to transfer the pancakes to a baking sheet; keep them warm in the oven while you finish the rest. Continue to add oil between batches as needed to maintain the 1/8-inch level of the oil. Serve with the sour cream and applesauce on the side, if using.