Root Beer Funnel Cakes

At Lb. Brewing Company/Gella's Diner in Hayes, Kansas, my eye was drawn to a root beer funnel cake on their menu. How fun! When I got home, I began to experiment with the recipe and found that the best flavor combination is bottled root beer in the batter and root beer extract in the glaze. This is not a recipe to serve a crowd at home--despite the funnel cake's popularity at county fairs--as you can only fry one at a time. You can find root beer extract at cake decorating shops.

For the funnel cakes

• Vegetable oil, for frying
• 1-1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1/4 tsp. salt
• 3/4 tsp. baking soda
• 1/2 tsp. cream of tartar
• 2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1 large egg
• 1 cup root beer

For the glaze

• 1/2 cup confectioners' sugar, plus more for dusting
• 1/4 tsp. root beer extract
• 1 Tbs. half-and-half or whole milk
• Fresh berries of your choice, for garnish

Make the funnel cakes:

In a large, deep skillet, pour in enough vegetable oil to reach 1 inch. Heat to 375°F over medium-high heat.

Meanwhile, mix the flour, salt, baking soda, cream of tartar, and sugar in a large bowl. Whisk the egg and root beer together in a cup, then whisk this mixture into the dry ingredients until smooth.

When the oil has reached the correct temperature, hold your finger over the bottom of a large kitchen funnel with a 1/2-inch diameter spout and pour ¾ cup batter into the funnel. Hold the funnel over the center of the skillet, remove your finger, and with a circular motion starting from a center point, let the batter create either a tight or freeform spiral in the hot oil. Fry until the funnel cake is light brown on one side, then carefully flip with a pancake turner and fry on the other side until golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Let the oil come back to the correct temperature and repeat the process with the remaining batter.

Glaze the funnel cakes

Whisk the confectioners' sugar, root beer extract, and half-and-half together in a small bowl. Drizzle over each funnel cake, then dust with more confectioners' sugar and garnish with fresh berries.

Lemongrass-Ginger Sliders

This traditional recipe, from the Shan state of Burma, is for meat balls made with ground beef or pork flavored with minced lemongrass, ginger, and garlic. But it's easier in a North American kitchen to flatten the balls and cook them as sliders. They cook slowly in a little oil, which gives them a slight crust and succulent interior. Traditionally the meat is chopped by hand, which has a different texture from ground meat, and it's worth trying. You can also chill the meat and use a food processor to grind it.

• 1 lb. boneless beef chuck or boneless pork shoulder, or 1 lb. ground chuck or ground pork
• 1/4 tsp. turmeric
• 2 Tbs. minced lemongrass
• 2 Tbs. minced garlic
• 1/2 cup minced shallots
• 2 Tbs. minced ginger
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1/4 cup chilled cooked jasmine or other rice
• 1/2 tsp. cayenne
• 1/4 cup finely chopped Roma tomatoes
• About 1/4 cup peanut oil

If using meat that has not been ground: To hand-chop the meat, thinly slice it, then place the slices on a large cutting board. Holding a cleaver in each hand, chop the meat with alternating hands, chopping across the piled meat one way, then another, and repeating until finely chopped. Sprinkle on the turmeric and set aside in a large bowl. Alternatively, to use a food processor, cut the meat into 5 or 6 pieces and place in the freezer for 20 minutes. Transfer the meat to the processor, add the turmeric, and pulse to finely chop. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside.

If using ground meat: Place in a bowl, sprinkle with the turmeric, and set aside.

To make and cook the sliders, combine the lemongrass, garlic, shallots, ginger, and salt in a large mortar or the food processor and pound or pulse to a coarse paste. Add the rice, chile powder, and tomatoes and pound or pulse again.

Add the flavor paste to the meat and knead it thoroughly into the meat. Shape the mixture into balls about 1 inch in diameter, then flatten each one gently into a thick patty. Set aside on a lightly oiled plate.

Place a large skillet over high heat. Add the oil, then lower the heat to medium-high and add the sliders, being careful not to splash yourself with oil; arrange the first ones around the edges of the skillet and work your way in to the center. Cook for 3 minutes or so, then use a wide metal spatula to turn the sliders over. As the meat starts to release water, raise the heat a little to evaporate it. Remove the sliders from the pan when they are firm to the touch or have reached the degree of doneness you like.

Shrimp & Scallop Cakes

The trick to making great fish cakes is to buy fresh ingredients, handle them gently, season with restraint, and pan-fry until you’ve got a crisp, brown crust and a succulent center.

• 2 whole star anise
• 4 Tbs. peanut or canola oil; more as needed for frying
• 2 cups stemmed and sliced (1/4-inch-thick) shiitake mushrooms (from about two 3-1/2-oz. packages)
• 1/2 lb. shrimp, any size, peeled and deveined
• 3/4 lb. fresh dry-packed sea scallops
• 2 Tbs. mirin (sweetened rice wine)
• 2 Tbs. roughly chopped fresh cilantro, plus 8 cilantro leaves
• 2 Tbs. thinly sliced scallions (both white and green parts; about 2 scallions)
• Gingered Soy Sauce

    

Tip:

To make mini cakes, simply portion the mixture into 24 small mounds, shape into cakes, and press a small cilantro leaf on each one. Cook as directed in the recipe.

Grind the star anise in a clean electric coffee grinder.

Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shiitakes and sauté, stirring as needed, until cooked through, golden, and slightly crisp around the edges, 5 to 7 min. Transfer to a cutting board, let cool, and then coarsely chop.

Coarsely chop the shrimp and transfer to a large bowl. Put the scallops in a food processor and purée until smooth. Add the scallops to the bowl of shrimp. Add 1 tsp. of the star anise, along with the shiitakes, mirin, cilantro, scallions, sesame oil, and 1/2 tsp. kosher salt. Combine well using a rubber spatula—don’t worry about overmixing. Cover the bowl and chill for 30 min. or more. Discard any remaining ground star anise or save for another use.

Turn the mixture out onto a baking sheet and portion it into eight equal mounds. With wet hands, shape each mound into a flattened cake about 2-1/2 inches wide and 1/2 inch thick. Press a cilantro leaf, nice side up, onto the top of each cake.

Heat the oven to 200°F. Heat 1 Tbs. of the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Using a rubber spatula, transfer four of the cakes to the pan with the cilantro-leaf side down. Cook until lightly browned on both sides and cooked through, turning once or twice with a spatula, 5 to 6 min. total cooking time. Transfer to a plate, cover, and keep warm in the oven. Wipe the skillet clean and then cook the remaining cakes as above, using the remaining 1 Tbs. oil.

Serve hot, with ramekins of the Gingered Soy Sauce for dipping.

Buttermilk Country Fried Chicken with Cucumber Salad

Many buttermilk fried chicken recipes call for marinating the chicken overnight, but not this one. Here, a dip in the buttermilk and a dredge in flour is all you need to get the golden, crunchy coating everyone loves. The bright cucumber salad balances out the meal.

• 1/4 cup halved and very thinly sliced red onion
• 1 very small clove garlic
• Kosher salt
• 1 Tbs. canola or vegetable oil, plus 1 to 1-1/4 cups for frying
• 3/4 cup plus 2 Tbs. buttermilk
• 1-1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh dill
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 English cucumber, halved lengthwise, seeded, and thinly sliced crosswise (about 1 heaping cup sliced)
• 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 2 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (about 3/4 lb. total), pounded to an even thickness (about 1/2 inch thick)

Put the onion in a small bowl, cover it with very hot water, and let it sit for 15 minutes. Roughly chop the garlic, sprinkle it with a generous pinch of salt, and mash it into a paste with the side of a chef’s knife. In a medium bowl, whisk the mashed garlic, 1 Tbs. oil, 2 Tbs. buttermilk, the lemon juice, dill, 1/4 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Toss the cucumber in the bowl with the dressing. Drain the onion, toss it with the cucumber salad, and let sit to allow the flavors to meld.

Put the flour in a shallow bowl and, in another shallow bowl, mix the remaining 3/4 cup buttermilk with 1 tsp. salt. Season the chicken with 3/4 tsp. salt and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Dip the chicken in the buttermilk and then dredge it in the flour. (You can let the chicken sit in the flour while the oil heats; gently shake off excess flour before cooking.)

Choose a skillet (preferably cast iron) that’s large enough to fit the chicken. Pour in oil to a depth of 1/4 inch (about 1 cup for a 10-inch skillet or 1-1/4 cups for an 11-inch skillet). Heat over medium-high heat. When the oil is shimmering and the chicken sizzles briskly when a corner is dipped in the oil, cook the chicken until golden brown on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer the chicken to paper towels and pat lightly to absorb excess oil. Sprinkle the chicken with a pinch of salt and serve it with the cucumber salad.

Homemade Tortilla Chips

Nothing beats warm, salty, homemade tortilla chips when you're serving guacamole or other dips, and they couldn't be easier to make. In fact, they're so good, you might want to make a double batch while the oil is hot.

• 2 to 3 quarts peanut or canola oil
• One 10-pack 6-inch corn tortillas
• Kosher salt

Pour the oil into a 6-quart pot to a depth of at least 2 inches and set over medium-high heat. While the oil heats, stack the tortillas and, cutting through the entire stack, cut the tortillas into six wedges each. When the oil is shimmering hot but not smoking, drop in a piece of tortilla. If the oil is hot enough, the tortilla will float to the surface and brown in about 1 minute. If it’s not hot enough, it will sink.


Fry as many chips as you can at a time without overcrowding the pot (it may be just a handful), turning halfway through, until they’re lightly colored, about 1 minute. With a slotted spoon, transfer the chips to a large paper-towel-lined plate. Repeat.


Put the warm chips in a clean paper bag, add 1/4 tsp. salt, close the bag, and gently shake to season them. Season with more salt to taste.

Smoky Refried Bean Tostadas

Looking for a quick dinner to celebrate Cinco de Mayo? These refried bean tostadas are fresh, satisfying, and they come together in no time.

• 7 Tbs. canola or vegetable oil; more if needed          
• 8 5- to 6-inch corn tortillas
• Kosher salt
• 1 medium onion, finely diced
• 1 tsp. ground cumin
• 2 15-oz. cans pinto beans, rinsed and drained
• 2 Tbs. chipotle (smoked) Tabasco sauce
• 1 cup crumbled feta (about 6 oz.)
• 3/4 cup finely diced fresh tomato
• 1/2 cup thinly sliced red radishes
• 1/2 cup loosely packed cilantro leaves

Heat the oven to 200°F (or heat a warming drawer if you have one). Line a baking sheet with paper towels. Heat 5 Tbs. of the oil in a small (8-inch) nonstick omelet pan over medium-high heat until the oil bubbles right away when the edge of a tortilla is dipped into it. Using tongs and working with one tortilla at a time, fry the tortillas until golden brown on both sides, about 30 seconds per side. As each one finishes frying, briefly dangle the tortilla above the pan to allow some of the excess oil to drip back into the pan, and then transfer the tortilla to the paper-towel-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle each tortilla with a little salt while it’s still hot. As you fry, adjust the heat to keep the oil from getting too hot or cool, and if the pan goes dry, add more oil, 1 Tbs. at a time. When all the tortillas are fried, keep them warm in the oven

Heat the remaining 2 Tbs. oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until softened and lightly browned around the edges, about 3 minutes. Stir in the cumin and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the beans, 1 tsp. salt, and 1 cup water. Working quickly, mash the beans with the back of a fork until most but not all of them are broken apart, and simmer until the beans look creamy and spreadable and much of the water has been absorbed, about 3 minutes. Stir in the chipotle Tabasco sauce and season to taste with more salt if needed.

To serve, spread each tortilla with about 1/3 cup of the beans, and top with the feta, tomato, radishes, and cilantro leaves.

Pear Fritters with Lemon and Ginger

Pear, lemon, and ginger are a match made in heaven. These crisp-yet-tender fritters would make an excellent dessert at Hanukkah.

• 2 small firm-ripe pears (preferably Bartlett), peeled, cored, and finely diced
• 1 Tbs. finely grated fresh ginger
• 1/2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
• 1-1/2 cups plus 1 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 2 tsp. plus 1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 3 large egg whites
• 1 cup whole milk
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 6-3/4 oz. (1-1/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 2 to 2-1/2 cups canola oil

In a small bowl, combine the pears, ginger, lemon zest, 1 Tbs. of the sugar, and 1/8 tsp. of the cinnamon. Macerate at room temperature for 15 minutes.


In a medium bowl, whisk the egg whites to soft peaks. In another medium bowl, whisk the milk, 1/2 cup of the sugar, and the vanilla until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is slightly frothy. Whisk in the flour just until combined—it shouldn’t be completely smooth. With a rubber spatula, fold in the egg whites, and then fold in the pear mixture. In a small bowl, mix the remaining 1 cup sugar and 2 tsp. cinnamon.


Pour 1/2 inch of oil into a 10-inch cast-iron skillet with a candy thermometer clipped to the side. Heat over medium-high heat to 350°F. Using 2 tablespoons or a small ice cream scoop, carefully drop a ball of batter into the hot oil. Add 4 or 5 more to the oil, but don’t crowd the pan. Fry until golden-brown, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, turn the fritters over and continue frying until golden-brown and cooked through, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate and drain briefly. Toss in the cinnamon sugar to coat and transfer to a platter. Continue cooking the rest of the fritters in the same manner. Serve hot.

Baked Eggplant Parmesan

For the marinara, you can use your own sauce or try the Quick Marinara with Toasted Garlic & Rosemary. Serve this hearty dish with a portion of pasta or between two slices of toasted Italian bread for a delicious sandwich.

• 2 medium globe eggplant (about 2 lbs.), cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick rounds
• Kosher salt
• 4-1/2 ounces (1 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 4 large eggs, beaten
• 3 cups dry fine breadcrumbs
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• Canola oil for frying (about 2 cups)
• 3 cups marinara sauce, warmed
• 16 basil leaves, torn into large pieces
• 10 oz. fresh mozzarella, thinly sliced (about 2 cups)
• 1-1/2 cups freshly grated Grana Padano

Line a large plate with paper towels. Put down a layer of eggplant slices, sprinkle generously with salt; add another layer of paper towels and another layer of eggplant and salt; repeat until you’ve layered the rest of the eggplant. Let sit for 20 minutes.

Put the flour and eggs in separate wide shallow bowls. In another wide bowl, toss the breadcrumbs with the thyme and 1/2 tsp. salt. Line a baking sheet with paper towels. Dredge the eggplant slices in the flour, dip in the egg, and then coat with the breadcrumbs, pressing down to pat the crumbs onto the eggplant, and put on the baking sheet.

Line another baking sheet with fresh paper towels. Pour enough oil into a large (12-inch) skillet or frying pan to measure about 1/2 inch deep and heat over medium heat until hot (if you dip a piece of eggplant into the oil, it will sizzle immediately). Working in batches, add as much eggplant as will fit in a single layer and fry, flipping once, until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Transfer to the baking sheet. Repeat, frying the remaining eggplant and layering it between sheets of paper towel.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425°F. Arrange a layer of eggplant in a 9x13-inch baking dish. Top with 1 cup of the marinara and then cover with a third of the basil, mozzarella, and Grana Padano. Repeat with two more layers of the remaining eggplant, marinara, basil, mozzarella, and Grana Padano.

Bake until the cheese melts and browns and the sauce bubbles around the edges, 25 to 30 minutes (cover with foil if the top browns too quickly). Let cool for a couple minutes and serve.

Grilled Thin Pork Chops in Adobo Paste

These thin pork chops could also be dredged in flour and pan-fried. 

• 1/4 cup sweet Spanish or Hungarian paprika
• 1 Tbs. minced garlic
• 1 tsp. dried oregano
• 1 tsp. kosher salt
• 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup red-wine vinegar
• 1 Tbs. olive oil
• 8 pork loin chops, 1/2 inch thick (about 3 lb. total), brined if you like but for no more than 1 to 2 hours

In a small bowl, mix the paprika, garlic, oregano, salt, pepper, vinegar, and olive oil into a smooth paste. Smear the paste generously over both sides of each pork chop. Put the chops on a platter, cover, and marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes while you prepare the grill.

Build and light a charcoal fire so there are thicker and thinner layers of coals for areas of varying heat. If using a gas grill, set one side to medium hot and the other to medium. When the thicker area of coals is medium hot (you’ll be able to hold your hand just above the grate for about 2 seconds), the fire is ready.

Using your fingers, scrape off most of the adobo paste and set the chops directly over the hottest part of the fire. If flare-ups occur, use tongs to move the chops to a cooler area. Grill until the chops are firm and the center is faintly pink (cut into one to check), 2 to 3 minutes per side. (These chops are too thin to get an accurate temperature reading.)

Transfer the chops to a clean platter and let them rest for 2 to 3 minutes just so the juices redistribute and the chops finish cooking.

Crisp Panko Chicken Cutlets

• 4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves
• Kosher salt and black pepper
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
• 3 eggs, lightly beaten with 1/3 cup water
• 2 cups panko crumbs
• Vegetable oil for frying
• 1/2 small head cabbage, finely shredded
• Tonkatsu Sauce

Tonkatsu Sauce (yields 1 cup)

• 1/2 cup Worcestershire sauce
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1/4 cup soy sauce
• 1/4 cup tomato ketchup
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

If the tenderloins are still attached to the chicken breasts, remove them and bread and fry them separately, or save them for another use. With a sharp knife, lightly score both sides of the chicken breasts in a checkerboard pattern. Lay a sheet of plastic wrap over the breasts and pound until they're about 1/2 inch thick. Season with salt and pepper.

Dredge the chicken in the flour and then dip it in the beaten eggs, shaking to remove excess. Dip each piece in the flour and egg again and then coat the chicken in the panko.

In a deep, straight-sided sauté pan, heat about 1/4 inch vegetable oil over medium high until the oil ripples and shimmers in the pan and instantly erupts into lots of bubbles when you dip a corner of a chicken breast into it. Immediately reduce the heat to medium low and fry the chicken in batches until cooked through and golden brown on both sides, 4 to 6 minutes per side. If the oil seems to cool down too much during frying, increase the heat a little to maintain a steady bubbling action. Drain the chicken on paper towels and serve it with abundant shredded cabbage and tonkatsu sauce.

For the sauce:

In a small saucepan, whisk together the Worcestershire, sugar, soy sauce, and ketchup. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and whisk often until reduced to 1 cup, about 10 minutes. Whisk in the mustard and allspice. Cool to room temperature. The sauce will keep for one week, tightly covered in the refrigerator.

Plátanos Maduros Fritos (Fried Plantains)

Sliced ripe plantains retain a sweet, creamy center and become caramelized around the edges when fried. This tasty side dish makes a good accompaniment to rice and beans, roasted pork, or both.

• Vegetable or canola oil
• 4 very ripe, dark-brown plantains (2 lb.), ends removed, peeled, and sliced 1/2 inch thick on a sharp diagonal

Fill a 12-inch heavy-duty skillet with 1/4 inch of oil (about 1-1/2 cups) and heat over medium heat until the tip of a plantain slice dipped in the oil sizzles vigorously.

Working in batches of about 12, slide the plantain slices in one at a time, making sure they’re not touching. Fry, flipping once with tongs or a fork, until golden-brown on both sides, 4 to 6 minutes total. Transfer to a paper-towel–lined plate. Repeat with the remaining plantains, reheating the oil as needed between batches. Serve hot.

Calas Fried Rice Fritters

Crisp around the edges with a plump, toothsome belly, these fritters beg to be served with obscene quantities of earthy, sorghum-like cane syrup, though traditionalists may opt for confectioners’ sugar instead.

• 1/2 cup long-grain white rice (Mahatma brand if you can find it)
• Peanut oil for frying
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 3 large eggs
• 2 tsp. sugar
• 1 tsp. vanilla extract
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• Cane syrup for serving

Tip:

I usually make calas when I have leftover rice in the fridge—whether it’s from Monday’s red beans or Chinese takeout. If using leftover rice, add 1-1/2 cups of cooked, cold rice to the batter.

Bring 1 cup of water and a pinch of salt to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the rice, stir once, reduce the heat to low, and cover the pan, cooking 18 to 20 minutes or until the grains of rice are plump and fluff apart with a fork. Turn the rice out onto a parchment paper–lined baking sheet and cool for 15 minutes, then transfer to a plastic container (don’t pack it in). Cover with plastic wrap and poke a few holes in the top. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to 2 days.


Pour enough peanut oil into a large pot to fill it to a 2-1/2- to 3-inch depth and bring to a temperature between 350°F and 360°F over medium heat. Line a plate with paper towels and set aside.


While the oil heats up, place the flour, baking powder, and cinnamon in a medium bowl.


Using a stand mixer or a hand mixer, beat the eggs, sugar, and vanilla on high speed until foamy and tripled in volume, 1-1/2 to 2 minutes. Sift in half of the dry ingredients, add the salt, and mix on low speed until only a few dry streaks remain. Sift in the remaining dry ingredients and mix on low speed for a few turns, then add the rice and mix until the fritter batter just comes together into a loose, roughly textured ball.


Once your oil is hot, dip a teaspoon in the hot oil, then into the batter and scoop out a heaping teaspoonful. Hold the spoon close to the oil and let the batter roll off and into the oil. Repeat with the remaining batter; using a slotted spoon, turn and baste the fritters occasionally, allowing them to become golden brown on all sides. (Fry the fritters in two batches if your pot becomes overcrowded.) If the temperature of the oil dips below 350°F, increase the heat to medium-high. Once the fritters are golden brown, transfer them to the prepared plate to cool slightly. Serve on a small plate drizzled with lots of cane syrup.

Buttermilk-Battered Onion Rings

The challenge with onion rings is making the coating stick to the onions so you get both onion and crisp outer shell in every bite. The solution is a good soak in viscous buttermilk, which helps the flour and cornmeal coating adhere.

• 2 large yellow onions (about 1-1/2 lb.), sliced crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick rounds and separated into individual rings
• 3 to 4 cups buttermilk
• 9 oz. (2 cups) all-purpose flour
• 5 oz. (1 cup) finely ground cornmeal
• 1 tsp. table salt
• 5 to 6 cups vegetable oil, as needed
• Kosher salt
• Ketchup, for serving (optional)

Put the onions in a large bowl and add enough buttermilk to cover. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 12 hours. In a cake pan or pie plate, combine the flour, cornmeal, and salt.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 200°F. Have ready a large rimmed baking sheet fitted with a rack. Line a plate with a few layers of paper towels.

Pour 1 inch of oil into a 5-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot and clip a deep-fry thermometer to the side of the pot. Heat over medium heat until the thermometer registers 350°F. Working in batches of 4 or 5, remove the rings from the buttermilk, letting any excess drip off, then dredge in the flour mixture, knocking off the excess.

Carefully lower the rings into the oil and fry until lightly browned on one side, about 2 minutes. Using tongs, gently turn the rings over and continue to fry, adjusting the heat as necessary to maintain a steady temperature, until golden-brown all over, about 2 minutes. Transfer to the paper towels to drain. Sprinkle generously with kosher salt, then transfer to the rack on the baking sheet and keep warm in the oven.

Continue to fry the onions in batches, letting the oil return to 350°F between batches and replacing the paper towels on the plate as needed. Serve with ketchup, if you like.

Shrimp & Scallop Cakes

The trick to making great fish cakes is to buy fresh ingredients, handle them gently, season with restraint, and pan-fry until you’ve got a crisp, brown crust and a succulent center.

• 2 whole star anise
• 4 Tbs. peanut or canola oil; more as needed for frying
• 2 cups stemmed and sliced (1/4-inch-thick) shiitake mushrooms (from about two 3-1/2-oz. packages)
• 1/2 lb. shrimp, any size, peeled and deveined
• 3/4 lb. fresh dry-packed sea scallops
• 2 Tbs. mirin (sweetened rice wine)
• 2 Tbs. roughly chopped fresh cilantro, plus 8 cilantro leaves
• 2 Tbs. thinly sliced scallions (both white and green parts; about 2 scallions)
• Gingered Soy Sauce

    

Tip:

To make mini cakes, simply portion the mixture into 24 small mounds, shape into cakes, and press a small cilantro leaf on each one. Cook as directed in the recipe.

Grind the star anise in a clean electric coffee grinder.

Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shiitakes and sauté, stirring as needed, until cooked through, golden, and slightly crisp around the edges, 5 to 7 min. Transfer to a cutting board, let cool, and then coarsely chop.

Coarsely chop the shrimp and transfer to a large bowl. Put the scallops in a food processor and purée until smooth. Add the scallops to the bowl of shrimp. Add 1 tsp. of the star anise, along with the shiitakes, mirin, cilantro, scallions, sesame oil, and 1/2 tsp. kosher salt. Combine well using a rubber spatula—don’t worry about overmixing. Cover the bowl and chill for 30 min. or more. Discard any remaining ground star anise or save for another use.

Turn the mixture out onto a baking sheet and portion it into eight equal mounds. With wet hands, shape each mound into a flattened cake about 2-1/2 inches wide and 1/2 inch thick. Press a cilantro leaf, nice side up, onto the top of each cake.

Heat the oven to 200°F. Heat 1 Tbs. of the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Using a rubber spatula, transfer four of the cakes to the pan with the cilantro-leaf side down. Cook until lightly browned on both sides and cooked through, turning once or twice with a spatula, 5 to 6 min. total cooking time. Transfer to a plate, cover, and keep warm in the oven. Wipe the skillet clean and then cook the remaining cakes as above, using the remaining 1 Tbs. oil.

Serve hot, with ramekins of the Gingered Soy Sauce for dipping.

Fried Chickpeas with Garam Masala

Once you start eating these crispy spiced chickpeas, you won’t want to stop. They do pop in the pan as they fry, so use a splatter guard or stand back a bit as they cook.

• 1 15-oz. can chickpeas
• About 1 cup olive oil
• 1 tsp. garam masala
• Kosher salt

Drain and rinse the chickpeas and pat completely dry with paper towels. Pour the olive oil into a 4-quart saucepan over medium-high heat to a depth of 1/4 inch. Heat the oil until shimmering hot. Add the chickpeas, cover with a splatter screen if you have one, and fry, shaking the pan occasionally, until browned, crisp, and beginning to split open, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate lined with paper towels. Immediately sprinkle with the garam masala and salt to taste. Serve hot.

Potato Pancakes Stuffed with Duxelles

• 2-1/2 lb. russet (Idaho) potatoes (4 medium), peeled, cut in quarters lengthwise and reserved in cold water
• 2-1/2 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• About 3/4 cup corn oil
• 1 medium yellow onion, diced (about 1-1/4 cups)
• 1 large egg
• 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1 recipe Duxelles 
• 2 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh chives

Heat the oven to 250°F.

Set a colander in the sink. Grate the potatoes in a food processor fi tted with a medium (4 mm) grating disc. Transfer the potatoes to the colander and sprinkle with 2 tsp. of the salt. Toss and let the potatoes drain for 10 minutes, tossing occasionally.

Meanwhile, replace the processor’s grating disc with the chopping blade. Add 1 Tbs. of the oil and the onion, egg, flour, baking powder, pepper, and the remaining 1/2 tsp. salt to the food processor bowl.

In batches, squeeze the liquid from the shredded potatoes with your hands. Put the potatoes in the food processor with the other ingredients and process for 10 seconds. Stop the machine, scrape the bowl with a rubber spatula, and process until the mixture is fi nely chopped, 10 to 15 seconds more. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl.

Have ready a large plate lined with paper towels. In a 10-inch skillet, heat 1/8 inch of the remaining oil over medium heat until the surface of the oil shimmers very slightly. With a soupspoon, carefully ladle three or four mounds of the potato mixture into the oil and spread them slightly with the back of the spoon until they are about 3-1/2 inches in diameter. (The oil should be bubbling gently around the pancakes.) On top of each pancake, drop a heaping spoonful of the duxelles and flatten slightly.

Top with an additional spoonful of the potato mixture and flatten gently once again.

With the tip of your spatula, gently coax the sides of the tops and bottoms of the pancakes together.

Cook until the pancakes are a deep golden color, 2 to 3 minutes. Lift the pancakes with a slotted metal spatula and carefully turn them over. Continue to cook until the second side is a deep golden color, about 2 minutes more. Using the spatula, transfer the pancakes to the paper-towel-lined plate and blot well with more paper towels. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Use the spatula to transfer the pancakes to a baking sheet; keep them warm in the oven while you finish the rest. Continue to add oil between batches as needed to maintain the 1/8-inch level of the oil. Serve the pancakes sprinkled with the chives.

Homemade Tortilla Chips

Nothing beats warm, salty, homemade tortilla chips when you're serving guacamole or other dips, and they couldn't be easier to make. In fact, they're so good, you might want to make a double batch while the oil is hot.

• 2 to 3 quarts peanut or canola oil
• One 10-pack 6-inch corn tortillas
• Kosher salt

Pour the oil into a 6-quart pot to a depth of at least 2 inches and set over medium-high heat. While the oil heats, stack the tortillas and, cutting through the entire stack, cut the tortillas into six wedges each. When the oil is shimmering hot but not smoking, drop in a piece of tortilla. If the oil is hot enough, the tortilla will float to the surface and brown in about 1 minute. If it’s not hot enough, it will sink.


Fry as many chips as you can at a time without overcrowding the pot (it may be just a handful), turning halfway through, until they’re lightly colored, about 1 minute. With a slotted spoon, transfer the chips to a large paper-towel-lined plate. Repeat.


Put the warm chips in a clean paper bag, add 1/4 tsp. salt, close the bag, and gently shake to season them. Season with more salt to taste.

Classic Potato Pancakes (Latkes)

• 2-1/2 lb. russet (Idaho) potatoes (4 medium), peeled, cut in quarters lengthwise, and reserved in cold water
• 2-1/2 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• About 3/4 cup corn oil
• 1 medium yellow onion, diced (about 1-1/4 cups)
• 1 large egg
• 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• Sour cream and applesauce, for serving (optional)

Heat the oven to 250°F.

Set a colander in the sink. Grate the potatoes in a food processor fitted with a medium (4 mm) grating disc. Transfer them to the colander and sprinkle with 2 tsp. of the salt. Toss and let drain for 10 minutes, tossing occasionally.

Meanwhile, replace the processor’s grating disc with the chopping blade. Add 1 Tbs. of the oil and the onion, egg, flour, baking powder, pepper, and the remaining 1/2 tsp. salt to the food processor bowl.

In batches, squeeze the liquid from the shredded potatoes with your hands. Put the potatoes in the food processor with the other ingredients and process for 10 seconds. Stop the machine, scrape the bowl with a rubber spatula, and process until the mixture is finely chopped, 10 to 15 seconds more. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl.

Have ready a large plate lined with paper towels. In a 10-inch skillet, heat 1/8 inch of the remaining oil over medium heat until the surface of the oil shimmers very slightly. With a soupspoon, carefully ladle four mounds of the potato mixture into the oil and spread them slightly with the back of the spoon until they are about 3-1/2 inches in diameter. (The oil should be bubbling gently around the pancakes.) Cook until the pancakes are a deep golden color, 2 to 3 minutes. Lift the pancakes with a slotted metal spatula and carefully turn them over. Continue to cook until the second side is a deep golden color, about 2 minutes more. Using the spatula, transfer the pancakes to the paper-towel-lined plate and blot well with more paper towels. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Use the spatula to transfer the pancakes to a baking sheet; keep them warm in the oven while you finish the rest. Continue to add oil between batches as needed to maintain the 1/8-inch level of the oil. Serve with the sour cream and applesauce on the side, if using.

Pan-Fried Yukon Gold Potatoes with Paprika

If you have smoked Spanish paprika (called pimentón), this is a great place to use it. Duck or goose fat is a delicious replacement for the olive oil. Use a pan large enough to hold the potatoes in one layer so they don't steam in their own moisture.

• 1-1/2 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes (3 or 4 medium potatoes), scrubbed but not peeled
• 5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 3/4 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• 1 tsp. paprika, preferably Hungarian sweet or Spanish smoked paprika
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Tip:

If stored properly in a cool, dark place, preferably with high humidity, Yukon Golds don't turn brown as quickly as other potatoes once they're cut. Still, if you're prepping the potatoes ahead, it's a good idea to keep them covered in water or coat them lightly with oil.

Cut the potatoes in half, then cut them in thick slices lengthwise, 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide. Stack the slices and cut them in half lengthwise, then cut crosswise to get 3/4-inch-wide pieces.

Heat 4 Tbs. of the oil in a large (11- to 12-inch) skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high heat. When the oil is shimmering hot, add the potatoes and stir immediately to coat them with the oil. Sprinkle with the 3/4 tsp. salt and stir again. Fry the potatoes, stirring frequently, until they're tender in the center and nicely browned on the outside, 25 to 30 minutes. (If the potatoes seem to be browning too fast, reduce the heat to medium or medium-low.)

Turn off the heat. Push the potatoes to one side of the pan and pour the remaining tablespoon of oil into the empty space in the pan. Stir the paprika into the oil and let sizzle for about 5 seconds. Stir the potatoes into the paprika oil until well coated. Stir in several grinds of pepper. Taste for salt and add more if necessary. Serve hot.

A year's worth of Fine Cooking in one hardbound volume

This recipe is one of more than 350 that you'll find in Fine Cooking's 2006 Bound Annual.

Green Tomatoes Fried in Olive Oil

This version of the classic calls for frying the tomatoes in olive oil instead of bacon fat.

• 2 green tomatoes (about 1/2 lb. each), sliced 1/2 inch thick
• 1 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup stone-ground cornmeal
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
• Olive oil

Season the green tomatoes with the salt and pepper. Combine the cornmeal and flour. Heat a large cast-iron pan over medium heat. When hot, add olive oil to coat (about 1/3 cup for a 12-inch pan). Dust the tomatoes in the cornmeal mixture just before you put them in the pan. Don’t crowd them. Cook the tomatoes, in batches if necessary, until well browned on both sides (3 to 4 minutes per side); add more oil if needed. Drain on paper towels and serve warm, sprinkled with extra salt if you like.