Gnocchi with Fava Beans, Peas & Asparagus

The freshness of the spring quartet of vegetables (including both English peas and snap peas) in Waxman’s dish keeps the hefty gnocchi light. This recipe makes more gnocchi than you will need, but the remainder can be frozen for later use.

For the gnocchi

• 3 russet potatoes (about 1-3/4 lb.)
• 2 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1 sprig rosemary
• Kosher salt
• 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 large egg
• 1/2 Tbs. olive oil, more for the cooked gnocchi

For the vegetables

• 1/2 cup peas, fresh or frozen
• 1/2 cup fava beans, fresh or frozen
• 6 medium spears asparagus, ends trimmed
• 8 sugar snap pea pods, strings removed
• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For serving

• 1 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated (1/2 cup with a rasp grater)

Make the gnocchi

Put the potatoes in a 4- to 5-quart saucepan and cover with 1 inch of cool water. Add the garlic, rosemary, and the 1 Tbs. salt. Bring to a boil, and then reduce the heat and simmer over medium heat. Cook until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork, about 45 minutes. Remove the cooked potatoes from the water and let them cool slightly.

When the potatoes are just cool enough to handle, peel them and force them through a ricer onto a clean work surface, making a well in the center. Add half of the flour, the egg, and the olive oil to the well and knead until well combined. Continue to add the flour in 1/4-cup increments until it is absorbed into the egg and oil mixture and a dough begins to form. You may not need all the flour. When the dough is still moist but no longer sticky, form it into a ball. Cut the ball into quarters with a sharp knife. Wrap three of the pieces in plastic and put them in the refrigerator.

Roll the remaining piece of dough on the work surface into a 1/2-inch thick rope, dusting with flour as needed to prevent it from sticking. Using a sharp knife, cut the rope into 3/4-inch pieces and transfer them to a lightly floured baking sheet. Repeat this process with the remaining dough pieces.

Set aside about 60 gnocchi for four servings, and refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap, on baking sheets until needed. Freeze the remainder for another use on baking sheets for about 45 minutes, or until the gnocchi pieces are firmly frozen. Transfer the gnocchi to a freezer bag and store for future use.

Blanch the vegetables

Bring a 7- to 8-quart pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Have ready a large bowl of ice water. Prepare a large paper-towel-lined plate and set aside. Add the peas to the boiling water and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Remove from the water with a slotted spoon and immediately plunge into the ice-water bath. When cool, transfer the peas to the paper-towel-lined plate.

Add the fava beans to the boiling water and cook until just tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from the water with a slotted spoon and immediately plunge into the ice-water bath. When cool, drain the favas and peel the outer skin. Place the beans on the plate with the peas.

Add the asparagus to the boiling water and cook until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the water with a slotted spoon and immediately plunge into the ice-water bath. When cool, transfer the asparagus to the paper-towel-lined plate.

Repeat this process with the sugar snap peas and drain on the plate with the asparagus. Cut the asparagus and snap peas into ¾-inch diagonal pieces. Set aside. Continue to boil the blanching water.

Cook the gnocchi

Set aside a large bowl for the cooked gnocchi. Drop as many gnocchi into the boiling water used to blanch the vegetables as will fit without crowding. When gnocchi rises to the top, continue cooking for another 1 to 1-1/2 minutes. Remove from the water with a slotted spoon, place in the reserved bowl, drizzle with 1/2 tsp. of olive oil and gently mix with a rubber spatula to prevent sticking. Repeat this procedure with the remaining gnocchi.

Cook the vegetables

Heat the olive oil and butter in a large 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add the cooked gnocchi and cook, stirring occasionally, until they just begin to brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the peas, fava beans, asparagus, sugar snap peas, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper and cook until the vegetables are just warmed through, about 2 minutes. Add some of the pasta water to the pan if the mixture seems dry. Adjust the seasoning if necessary.

To serve

Spoon the mixture into shallow serving bowls and top with the cheese.

Potato & Rutabaga Gratin with Blue Cheese

While rutabagas taste and behave a lot like turnips, they’re nuttier, less peppery, and creamier, which is why I prefer them in gratins. The easiest way to peel a rutabaga— especially a waxed one—is with a sharp paring knife. Use a very sharp knife or a mandoline to slice the rutabaga and potatoes.

• 3 cups heavy cream
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 hearty sprigs fresh thyme
• Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
• 3 Tbs. melted unsalted butter; more butter for the foil
• 1 medium rutabaga (about 1-1/2 lb.), peeled, quartered, and very thinly sliced
• 2 to 3 russet potatoes (about 1-1/2 lb.), peeled and very thinly sliced
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 oz. blue cheese, such as Maytag, Roquefort, or Bleu d’Auvergne, crumbled
• 3 Tbs. fresh breadcrumbs, toasted (see How to make fresh breadcrumbs for instructions)

Tip:

For the neatest servings, let the gratin sit for at least 10 min. before slicing.

Heat the oven to 375°F. Rinse a small saucepan in cold water (this will make the pan easier to clean later), add-the cream, garlic, bay leaf, thyme, and nutmeg. Bring to just below a simmer over medium heat, remove from the heat, cover, and set aside to infuse for about 30 min.

Brush a large gratin dish or 3-qt. flameproof casserole dish with a little of the melted butter. Arrange half of the rutabaga slices in the bottom of the dish, followed by half of the potato slices. Season with salt and pepper. Dot the surface with the blue cheese. Continue with another layer of rutabaga slices and a final layer of potatoes. Season the top with salt and pepper. Strain the seasoned cream over the top. In a small bowl, combine the breadcrumbs with the remaining melted butter and sprinkle over the top. Butter the dull side of a large sheet of foil and cover the gratin. Bake for 40 min., remove the foil, and continue to bake until the top is browned, the sides are bubbly, and the potatoes are tender when pierced, another 30 to 40 min. Let sit for 10 min. before serving.

Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes with Chives

• 3 lb. russet potatoes (4 to 6 medium), peeled and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch chunks
• Kosher salt
• 6 to 8 Tbs. unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 4 pieces
• 1 cup buttermilk, at room temperature
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced chives (1 small bunch)
• Freshly ground black pepper

Put the potatoes in a large saucepan and cover by an inch with cold water. Add 1-1/2 tsp. kosher salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, partially cover, and simmer until the potatoes are tender and easily pierced with a skewer, about 20 minutes. Drain, and return the potatoes to the saucepan. Put the pan over low heat, and shake or stir the potatoes until a floury film forms on the bottom of the pot, 1 to 2 minutes.

Using a ricer, food mill, or potato masher, mash the potatoes. Stir in the butter, 1 piece at a time, with a broad wooden spoon. Once the butter is thoroughly absorbed, add the buttermilk in three parts, stirring vigorously between additions. Add the chives, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

Rosemary Steak & Potatoes

• 2 beef strip steaks, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inches thick (about 1-1/2 lb. total), trimmed
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 large russet potato, scrubbed and patted dry
• Cooking spray
• 1 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary; plus four 2-inch sprigs

Heat the broiler to high and set a rack directly under it. Season the steaks with 1 tsp. salt and a few grinds of pepper.

Melt 2 Tbs. of the butter. Cut the potato crosswise into thin, uniform slices about 1/8 inch thick. Spray a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet with cooking spray. In a large bowl, gently toss the potato slices with the melted butter, chopped rosemary, 1/2 tsp. salt, and a few generous grinds of pepper. Arrange the potato slices in a single layer on the baking sheet and broil until they begin to brown, 2 to 4 minutes. Flip and broil until the second sides are lightly golden brown and the potatoes are slightly crisp around the edges, 3 to 5 minutes. Set aside and keep warm.

Set a heavy skillet over high heat for 1-1/2 minutes. Carefully set the steaks in the pan and sear without moving for 2 to 3 minutes. Flip the steaks and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes for medium rare. Remove the pan from  the heat and add the remaining 2 Tbs. butter and the rosemary sprigs to the pan. Let the steaks rest in the pan for 5 minutes, basting them occasionally with the pan juices. Carve the steaks into 1/4-inch slices and sprinkle with salt.

Arrange the steak and potatoes on two dinner plates and drizzle the steak with the rosemary-butter pan sauce. Serve immediately.

Colcannon

This most celebrated of Irish potato dishes exists in numerous variations, depending on the season, the region of the country, and of course personal taste. It is often made with just butter, milk, and kale, but the scholar P. W. Joyce defines "caulcannon" as "potatoes mashed with butter and milk, with chopped up cabbage and pot-herbs." Mary Ward, when she makes colcannon at her house in Nenagh, County Tipperary, starts with a trip to the kitchen garden, armed with a basket and a pair of shears. This is her recipe.

• 2 to 2-1/2 lb. russet or other floury potatoes (5 or 6)
• 6 to 8 Tbs. butter
• 2 to 3 lightly packed cups chopped kale or assorted chopped greens (such as kale, parsley, sorrel, spinach, and/or broccoli or cauliflower leaves)
• 1-1/3 cups milk
• 4 scallions, green part only, minced
• Salt and pepper

Put the potatoes into a large pot, with the larger ones on the bottom, and add water to come halfway up the potatoes. Cover the pot and bring to a boil over high heat. When the water begins to boil, carefully drain off about half of it, then return the pot to the heat, cover it again, reduce the heat to low, and let the potatoes steam for about 40 minutes. Turn off the heat; cover the potatoes with a clean, damp tea towel; and let sit for 5 minutes more.

Melt 4 Tbs. of the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the kale or assorted greens and cook until just wilted, about 5 minutes.

Combine the milk, scallions, and remaining butter in a medium pot and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook for about 2 minutes, then add the greens and stir in well. Remove the pot from the heat, cover, and set aside.

Drain and carefully peel the potatoes, then return them to the pot. Add the greens and their liquid and mash until smooth, leaving a few small lumps in the potatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To serve in the traditional Irish manner, push the back of a large soup spoon down in the middle of each portion to make a crater, then put a large pat of room-temperature butter into each one to make a "lake." Diners dip each forkful of colcannon into the butter until its walls are breached.

Crisp Rösti Potatoes

Essentially a giant latke, rösti potatoes are the Swiss version of the classic potato pancake. Serve it topped with smoked salmon, sour cream with chives, or braised Savoy cabbage.

• 1 lb. potatoes (Yukon Golds or russets are best)
• 1-1/2 tsp. salt
• Generous 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 3 Tbs. vegetable or olive oil for frying; more as needed

Peel the potatoes and grate them, using the large holes of a hand grater or a food processor. Put the potatoes in a large bowl, add the salt and pepper, and toss to coat thoroughly. Let the potatoes rest for at least 5 minutes, and then, working with a fistful at a time, squeeze as much liquid as possible out of them and transfer to a second bowl. (The potatoes will start to discolor, but that won’t really affect the final results.)

Large holes mean faster work, better texture. A very finely grated potato could turn mushy during cooking.

You need to get rid of as much liquid as possible, so just squeeze small handfuls at a time.

To make one large rösti—Heat a heavy-based skillet that measures about 8 inches across the base over medium-high heat. Add the oil (it should come to a depth of about 1/8 inch; add more if-necessary.) When the oil begins to ripple and quiver slightly, test it by dropping in a potato shred—it should sizzle enthusiastically. If not, wait a few more seconds. When the temperature is right, take a fistful of potatoes, wring it out once more, and let it fall loosely from your fingers into the center of the pan. (Be careful because the oil will spatter; getting hit by a few tiny droplets is inevitable.)

Fill the pan gradually. Adding just a small amount at a time makes it easier to get an even layer.

Working quickly, repeat until you’ve got enough potatoes in the pan to cover the bottom. With a fork, gently spread out the shreds of potato to make a layer about 1/2 inch thick, trying to distribute them evenly, avoiding dense or thin patches. If there are straggly potatoes around the edges, tuck them in with the fork also so they don’t burn.

Adjust the heat so that you hear a lively sizzle but the bottom isn’t browning too rapidly. Cook until the underside is a deep golden brown and the potatoes on the top are starting to look translucent, 12 to 16 minutes. (Taste a few strands—they should be almost fully cooked and tender.)

If you’re confident enough to just flip the rösti in the pan, go for it—it’s quick and efficient. If you’re not, carefully slide the rösti out of the pan onto a dinner plate and return the pan to the heat. Put another plate on top of the rösti and, holding tightly, flip the plates over. Slide the inverted rösti back into the pan and continue cooking until the new bottom is browned and the potatoes feel really tender in the middle when poked with a knife (try to snitch a few strands from the center and taste them for doneness), another 6 to 8 minutes. Slide the rösti onto a cutting board if you’re serving it immediately, or to a cooling rack to hold it for a few minutes. Blot the top with a paper towel to remove any excess oil. Cut into wedges and serve as soon as possible.

To make individual röstis:

Follow the directions above, but just drop handfuls of potatoes into the pan to create 4-inch rounds that are about 1/4 inch thick. Use a spatula to flip the rounds rather than sliding them onto a plate. Drain these small rösti on paper towels for a few seconds before serving.

Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes with Chives

• 3 lb. russet potatoes (4 to 6 medium), peeled and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch chunks
• Kosher salt
• 6 to 8 Tbs. unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 4 pieces
• 1 cup buttermilk, at room temperature
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced chives (1 small bunch)
• Freshly ground black pepper

Put the potatoes in a large saucepan and cover by an inch with cold water. Add 1-1/2 tsp. kosher salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, partially cover, and simmer until the potatoes are tender and easily pierced with a skewer, about 20 minutes. Drain, and return the potatoes to the saucepan. Put the pan over low heat, and shake or stir the potatoes until a floury film forms on the bottom of the pot, 1 to 2 minutes.

Using a ricer, food mill, or potato masher, mash the potatoes. Stir in the butter, 1 piece at a time, with a broad wooden spoon. Once the butter is thoroughly absorbed, add the buttermilk in three parts, stirring vigorously between additions. Add the chives, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

Butternut Squash & Potato Gratin with Walnut Crust

To vary this gratin, add tomatoes, caramelized onions, or other vegetables. It's wise to put a sheet of foil on the bottom rack of the oven to catch any cream that bubbles over.

• 1 butternut squash (about 2 lb.), peeled
• 2 Idaho potatoes (about 1-1/4 lb. total), peeled
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 6 Tbs. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1/2 cup finely chopped walnuts
• 1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs combined with 2 Tbs. melted butter

Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease an 8x8-inch (2-qt.) glass or ceramic baking dish. Cut the squash in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds and fibers. Slice the squash and potatoes about 1/8 inch thick (use a mandoline if you have one). Line the bottom of the baking dish with a layer of squash (overlapping slightly), season lightly with salt and pepper, sprinkle with a little of the Parmigiano, and drizzle with a little of the cream. Cover with a layer of potato slices, season with salt, pepper, Parmigiano, and cream. Repeat with the remaining squash and potatoes until the dish is full, ending with a top layer of squash, seasoned and topped with any remaining cheese and cream. (You may have extra squash.) Press down lightly to distribute the cream and compact the layers. The last layer of squash should be just sitting in the cream, but not covered by it. Cover the dish with foil and bake until the vegetables feel tender when poked with a thin, sharp knife (check the middle layer), about 1 hour and 10 minutes.

For a gratin, alternate layers of squash and potato, drizzling cream and sprinkling Parmigiano in between.

Press gently on the completed layers to distribute the cream evenly.

Combine the walnuts and buttered breadcrumbs. Remove the gratin from the oven, sprinkle with the breadcrumb-nut mixture, and bake until the top is lightly browned, 5 to 10 minutes. Let sit in a warm place for 20 minutes before serving so that liquids will set and tighten the gratin. Cut into 9 squares and serve.

Finish cooking the gratin uncovered to brown the breadcrumb-walnut topping.

Golden Russet Potato Gratin

• 1-1/2 Tbs. olive oil
• 2 large yellow onions (about 1 lb. total), halved and thinly sliced from root to blossom end
• Kosher salt
• 1-1/2 cups low-salt canned chicken broth
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 3-1/2 lb. russet potatoes (about 6 medium)
• 2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup lightly packed grated Gruyère (about-1-1/2 oz.)
• 3 Tbs. freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano

Heat the oven to 400°F. Heat a large skillet over medium heat, add the oil, and when it’s-hot, add the onions. Season well with salt and cook, stirring often, until the onions turn translucent and soften completely, about 10 min. Raise the heat to high and cook, stirring constantly, until the onions darken uniformly to a light brown, about 4 min. Carefully add the chicken broth (it will steam) and scrape the bottom of the pan to incorporate the browned bits into the broth. Remove from the heat.

Grease a 2-1/2-quart casserole dish (about 8x11 inches) with 1 Tbs. of the butter. Cut the remaining butter into 1/4-inch cubes. Peel the potatoes. Using a knife or a mandoline, cut the potatoes into disks about 1/8 to 1/16 inch thick. Arrange a layer of potatoes, slightly overlapping, on the bottom of the casserole dish, starting at one end of the dish and working to the other end in rows. Cover evenly with a third of the onions (use a slotted spoon), a third of the thyme, 1/4 tsp. of the salt, some pepper, and about 1-1/2 tsp. of the butter. Arrange two more layers of potatoes, onions, thyme, salt, pepper, and butter over the first. Pour the broth over this third layer. For the fourth and last layer, use the remaining potatoes and butter and sprinkle on the Gruyère and Parmigiano.

Pour the chicken broth over the potatoes, which are layered with browned onions, fresh thyme, and butter.

Neatly arrange a top layer of slightly overlapping potatoes. Sprinkle on the cheeses a nd butter, which will create a savory crust.

Bake until the top layer is golden brown, the potatoes are tender when pierced, and most of the broth has been absorbed (use a-knife to peek around the edges), about 50 min. Let the gratin cool for 20 min. before cutting and serving.

Mushroom & Potato Gratin

• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter, softened at room temperature
• 1 recipe Mushroom Sauté
• 1 cup homemade or low-salt chicken broth
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 2-1/2 lb. russet potatoes
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme leaves
• 2-1/2 tsp. kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup (about 2 oz.) finely grated Gruyère

Heat the oven to 375°F and butter a 9x13-inch baking dish with the softened butter.

Prepare the mushroom sauté, using the optional deglazing liquid if you like. Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl and return the pan to medium-high heat. Pour in the broth and scrape the pan with a wooden spoon until most of the cooked-on bits are released into the broth. Combine the broth with the cream in a measuring cup with a spout.

Peel and slice the potatoes very thinly (about 1/8-inch thick). In a large bowl, toss the sliced potatoes with the thyme, salt, and several grinds of pepper. Overlap half of the potato slices in two even layers to cover the bottom of the buttered baking dish. Distribute the mushrooms over the potatoes. Cover the mushrooms with two more overlapping layers of the remaining potato slices. Pour the broth and  cream mixture over the potatoes. Sprinkle the cheese evenly over the top.

Cover the gratin with foil and bake it for 30 minutes. Uncover it and press the potatoes down with a spatula. Bake uncovered, rotating the pan occasionally for even browning, until the top is browned and the potatoes feel tender when poked with a fork, another 25 to 30 minutes. The cream will be gently bubbling. Let the gratin sit for about 15 minutes before serving.

Shepherd’s Pie with Cheddar-Spiked Mashed Potatoes

My mom is the queen of meat stews. This shepherd’s pie is no exception. The filling is a perfect blend of meat and vegetables, simmered together and then baked under a golden brown mashed potato topping—a true comfort meal. My whole family loves this dish. Let’s face it, what toddler doesn’t love mashed potatoes? If you don’t eat red meat, substitute cubed chicken breast or thigh meat or turkey breast or tenderloin (the cooking time remains the same). Since this recipe has a longer walk-away time than most other recipes, take advantage of it and catch up with work or relaxation!

Filling:

• 1 Tbs. olive oil
• 2 medium carrots, chopped
• 1 cup pearl onions (frozen or jarred, no need to thaw if frozen)
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1-1/4 lb. lean beef round, cut into 1-inch cubes
• 1 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. dried oregano
• 1/2 tsp. table salt
• 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• One 28-oz. can diced tomatoes

Cheddar-Spiked Mashed Potatoes:

• 2 medium Idaho potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
• 1/2 cup shredded reduced-fat cheddar cheese
• 1/4 cup low-fat sour cream
• Table salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the carrots, onions, and garlic and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the vegetables from the pan and set aside.


Add the beef to the hot skillet and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Add the flour, oregano, salt, and pepper and stir to coat the beef. Return the vegetables to the skillet and stir in the tomatoes. Bring to a simmer, reduce heat to medium-low, partially cover the pan, and simmer until the beef is cooked through, about 10 minutes.


Meanwhile, place the potatoes in a large saucepan and pour over enough water to cover. Set pan over high heat, bring to a boil, and boil until the potatoes are fork-tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain and return the potatoes to the pan. Add the cheese and sour cream and mash until smooth and well combined. Season to taste with salt and pepper. At this point, the potatoes should be slightly thin and easy to spread over the beef mixture. If they’re not, add more sour cream or low-fat milk.


Transfer the beef mixture to a deep dish pie plate or shallow casserole dish. Spoon the mashed potatoes over the top and, using the back of a spoon, make an even layer.

If you're stopping here:

Let cool for 15 minutes, then cover the dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate up to 3 days or freeze up to 3 months. Thaw completely in the refrigerator or microwave before baking.

When you're ready to eat:

Preheat the oven to 400ºF. Place the casserole dish on a baking sheet and bake until top is golden brown and filling is bubbly, 20 to 25 minutes (the baking sheet prevents messy oven cleanups, in case the filling bubbles over). Let rest 5 minutes before serving.

Baked Potato & Leek Soup with Cheddar & Bacon

• 2 medium russet potatoes (about 1/2 lb. each)
• 1/4 cup unsalted butter
• 2-1/2 cups sliced leeks (about 2 medium leeks; white and light green parts), rinsed well
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 cups homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth
• 1/2 cup milk
• 1/2 cup sour cream
• 4 thick slices bacon, cut into 1/2-inch dice
• 1 cup grated sharp Cheddar (about 1/4 lb.)
• 2 Tbs. thinly sliced scallion greens or chives

Heat the oven to 375ºF. Scrub the potatoes in water, pat dry, and pierce in several places with a fork. Set them directly on an oven rack and bake until very tender when pierced with a fork, about 1 hour. Let cool completely on a wire rack.

Melt the butter in a soup pot over medium-low heat. Add the leeks and garlic, season with salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the broth and 2 cups water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook until the leeks are very tender, about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, put the bacon in a skillet and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned and crisp, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the bacon bits with a slotted spoon to a saucer lined with paper towels to drain and cool.

When the potatoes are cool, cut one of them in half lengthwise. Use a large spoon to scoop the flesh in one piece from each half. Cut the flesh into 1/2-inch cubes and set aside. Coarsely chop the potato skin and the entire remaining potato and add to the pot with the leeks. Purée the contents of the pot in a blender until very smooth (you'll need to work in two batches). Return the puréed soup to a clean soup pot and reheat over medium low. Whisk together the milk and sour cream until smooth and then whisk this into the soup, along with 1/2 cup of the Cheddar. Stir in the diced potato. The soup should be fairly thick, but if it seems too thick, thin it with a little water. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve garnished with the remaining Cheddar, the bacon bits, and the scallions or chives.

Fluffy Mashed Potatoes

The airy texture of these mashed potatoes comes from the unusual addition of eggs, which are beaten into the potatoes just before the butter and cream are incorporated. The eggs bind and coat the potatoes, resulting in a light yet silky mouth-feel. The hot potatoes and cream cook the eggs enough to render them food-safe.

• 4 lb. medium russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
• Kosher salt
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
• 2 large eggs
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Thinly sliced chives, for garnish

Put the potatoes in a 6- to 7-quart pot and cover with cold water by at least 1 inch. Add 1 Tbs. salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a steady simmer, partially cover the pot, and cook until the potatoes are very tender when pierced with a fork, 10 to 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a 1-quart saucepan, heat the heavy cream and butter over
medium heat, stirring once or twice, until hot and the butter is melted.Turn off the heat, cover, and keep warm.

Drain the potatoes and return them to the pot. Mash with a potato masher until almost smooth. Add the eggs and beat them into the potatoes with a wooden spoon. Add the cream mixture and continue to mix with the spoon until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl, garnish with the chives, and serve.

Creamy Potato Soup with Pancetta Croutons

Here's a soup that's utterly pleasing—smooth and full-bodied without being heavy, thanks to starchy russet potatoes and just a little cream to enrich the flavor. Pair it wth a green salad for a simple but satisfying meal.

• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 medium onions (8 oz. total), chopped (about 2 cups)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black or white pepper
• 3 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 2 lb. russet potatoes (3 to 4 medium), peeled and cut into 3/4- to 1-inch chunks
• 4 cups homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth
• 2 bay leaves, preferably fresh
• 1 cup whole milk
• 1/2 cup light or heavy cream, plus more as needed for garnish
• 1 recipe Pancetta Croutons

Melt the butter in a large (4-quart) saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions, season with salt and pepper, and cook gently, stirring occasionally, until translucent but not at all browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook another 2 minutes. Add the potatoes, stir, pour in the broth, and add the bay leaves. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, partially cover, reduce the heat to medium low or low and simmer gently until the potatoes are very tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Discard the bay leaves.

Working in batches, purée the soup in a blender (being careful to fill the blender only two-thirds full and vent the lid). If the soup is too thick to blend, add a little of the milk. Pulse the blender in short bursts and avoid overworking the soup.

Rinse the soup pot, and return the soup to it. Add the milk and cream and heat through. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Ladle the soup into bowls and top each with a generous handful of the pancetta croutons. Garnish with a thread of cream, if you like.

Fluffy Mashed Potatoes

The airy texture of these mashed potatoes comes from the unusual addition of eggs, which are beaten into the potatoes just before the butter and cream are incorporated. The eggs bind and coat the potatoes, resulting in a light yet silky mouth-feel. The hot potatoes and cream cook the eggs enough to render them food-safe.

• 4 lb. medium russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
• Kosher salt
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
• 2 large eggs
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Thinly sliced chives, for garnish

Put the potatoes in a 6- to 7-quart pot and cover with cold water by at least 1 inch. Add 1 Tbs. salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a steady simmer, partially cover the pot, and cook until the potatoes are very tender when pierced with a fork, 10 to 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a 1-quart saucepan, heat the heavy cream and butter over
medium heat, stirring once or twice, until hot and the butter is melted.Turn off the heat, cover, and keep warm.

Drain the potatoes and return them to the pot. Mash with a potato masher until almost smooth. Add the eggs and beat them into the potatoes with a wooden spoon. Add the cream mixture and continue to mix with the spoon until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl, garnish with the chives, and serve.

Potato Pancakes Stuffed with Duxelles

• 2-1/2 lb. russet (Idaho) potatoes (4 medium), peeled, cut in quarters lengthwise and reserved in cold water
• 2-1/2 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• About 3/4 cup corn oil
• 1 medium yellow onion, diced (about 1-1/4 cups)
• 1 large egg
• 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1 recipe Duxelles 
• 2 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh chives

Heat the oven to 250°F.

Set a colander in the sink. Grate the potatoes in a food processor fi tted with a medium (4 mm) grating disc. Transfer the potatoes to the colander and sprinkle with 2 tsp. of the salt. Toss and let the potatoes drain for 10 minutes, tossing occasionally.

Meanwhile, replace the processor’s grating disc with the chopping blade. Add 1 Tbs. of the oil and the onion, egg, flour, baking powder, pepper, and the remaining 1/2 tsp. salt to the food processor bowl.

In batches, squeeze the liquid from the shredded potatoes with your hands. Put the potatoes in the food processor with the other ingredients and process for 10 seconds. Stop the machine, scrape the bowl with a rubber spatula, and process until the mixture is fi nely chopped, 10 to 15 seconds more. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl.

Have ready a large plate lined with paper towels. In a 10-inch skillet, heat 1/8 inch of the remaining oil over medium heat until the surface of the oil shimmers very slightly. With a soupspoon, carefully ladle three or four mounds of the potato mixture into the oil and spread them slightly with the back of the spoon until they are about 3-1/2 inches in diameter. (The oil should be bubbling gently around the pancakes.) On top of each pancake, drop a heaping spoonful of the duxelles and flatten slightly.

Top with an additional spoonful of the potato mixture and flatten gently once again.

With the tip of your spatula, gently coax the sides of the tops and bottoms of the pancakes together.

Cook until the pancakes are a deep golden color, 2 to 3 minutes. Lift the pancakes with a slotted metal spatula and carefully turn them over. Continue to cook until the second side is a deep golden color, about 2 minutes more. Using the spatula, transfer the pancakes to the paper-towel-lined plate and blot well with more paper towels. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Use the spatula to transfer the pancakes to a baking sheet; keep them warm in the oven while you finish the rest. Continue to add oil between batches as needed to maintain the 1/8-inch level of the oil. Serve the pancakes sprinkled with the chives.

Classic Potato Pancakes (Latkes)

• 2-1/2 lb. russet (Idaho) potatoes (4 medium), peeled, cut in quarters lengthwise, and reserved in cold water
• 2-1/2 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• About 3/4 cup corn oil
• 1 medium yellow onion, diced (about 1-1/4 cups)
• 1 large egg
• 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• Sour cream and applesauce, for serving (optional)

Heat the oven to 250°F.

Set a colander in the sink. Grate the potatoes in a food processor fitted with a medium (4 mm) grating disc. Transfer them to the colander and sprinkle with 2 tsp. of the salt. Toss and let drain for 10 minutes, tossing occasionally.

Meanwhile, replace the processor’s grating disc with the chopping blade. Add 1 Tbs. of the oil and the onion, egg, flour, baking powder, pepper, and the remaining 1/2 tsp. salt to the food processor bowl.

In batches, squeeze the liquid from the shredded potatoes with your hands. Put the potatoes in the food processor with the other ingredients and process for 10 seconds. Stop the machine, scrape the bowl with a rubber spatula, and process until the mixture is finely chopped, 10 to 15 seconds more. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl.

Have ready a large plate lined with paper towels. In a 10-inch skillet, heat 1/8 inch of the remaining oil over medium heat until the surface of the oil shimmers very slightly. With a soupspoon, carefully ladle four mounds of the potato mixture into the oil and spread them slightly with the back of the spoon until they are about 3-1/2 inches in diameter. (The oil should be bubbling gently around the pancakes.) Cook until the pancakes are a deep golden color, 2 to 3 minutes. Lift the pancakes with a slotted metal spatula and carefully turn them over. Continue to cook until the second side is a deep golden color, about 2 minutes more. Using the spatula, transfer the pancakes to the paper-towel-lined plate and blot well with more paper towels. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Use the spatula to transfer the pancakes to a baking sheet; keep them warm in the oven while you finish the rest. Continue to add oil between batches as needed to maintain the 1/8-inch level of the oil. Serve with the sour cream and applesauce on the side, if using.

Bite-Size Latkes

Serve these cuties topped with a little applesauce or a dollop of sour cream and some minced chives. Or go luxe and serve them with smoked salmon or even caviar on top. If you like, present the latkes plain with bowls of sour cream and applesauce nearby and let folks garnish the pancakes themselves.

• 4 medium to large russet or Yukon Gold potatoes (2 lb. total), peeled
• 2 large yellow onions (3/4 lb. total)
• 4 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 1/3 cup matzo meal
• 2 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• 10 to 15 grinds black pepper; more to taste
• About 3/4 cup peanut oil
• Applesauce, sour cream, and chopped chives for serving (optional)

Using the medium shredding blade of a food processor, grate the potatoes, laying them horizontally in the feed tube to maximize the strand length. Grate the onions (halve or quarter them first if necessary) on top of the potatoes. The onions will turn to mush, and their juices will help keep the potatoes from turning brown. Pick out any ungrated pieces of potato or onion.

Lay a clean dishtowel inside a large bowl and transfer the grated mixture into the towel. Roll the towel lengthwise and wring out as much liquid as possible (you can do this over the bowl, discarding the liquid, or right over the sink). Depending on the size of the towel (and your muscles), you may have to do this in batches. Transfer the grated mixture to a bowl. Add the eggs, matzo meal, salt, and pepper; mix well.

To form the latkes, scoop up about 2 Tbs. of the mixture with your hands and loosely pat it into a pancake about 1/2 inch thick, leaving a few straggly strands along the edge. (As you work, liquid will accumulate in the bowl, so lightly squeeze out the excess. The last couple of latkes may need a really firm squeeze.) If you like, you can shape all of the mixture ahead of frying; place the cakes on a baking sheet.

When ready to fry, heat a large cast-iron or nonstick skillet with about 1/8 inch of oil and heat over medium high. The oil is hot enough when a piece of potato sizzles when added.

In batches, slip the latkes into the hot oil and flatten gently with the back of a spatula. Fry until deep golden brown, about 3 minutes on each side, to be sure the center is fully cooked. If the edges darken very quickly, lower the heat. To prevent excess oil absorption, flip each latke only once. Add oil between batches as needed, making sure the oil heats up again before frying more latkes. Drain the latkes on paper towels or a clean brown paper bag. Serve immediately with applesauce and sour cream, if you like.

Classic French Fries

There are three secrets to restaurant-quality French fries at home: choose the right potatoes (see tip below), cut them uniformly, and fry them twice. The first fry, at a lower temperature, softens and cook the potatoes, while the second fry browns them to crispy perfection. For more-rustic-looking fries that have a slightly earthy note, leave the peel on the potatoes; this also makes prep that much easier.

• 2 lb. Burbank russet potatoes (about 3 large), peeled if you like
• 2 to 3 quarts canola oil or peanut oil
• Kosher salt or coarse sea salt

Tip:

Burbank russets develop a crisper texture and cook more evenly than the other widely available variety of russet potato, Norkotah. If the variety isn't indicated on the bag, try asking the produce manager which variety is typically stocked. Russets may also be labeled as Idaho or baking potatoes.

Cut each potato lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick disks, then cut these disks lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick sticks. Try to keep your cuts uniform so the potatoes cook evenly.

Soak the potato sticks in cold water for 20 minutes. Drain and rinse the potatoes in 3 changes of fresh cold water, draining after each rinse. Let the potatoes dry in a single layer on a towel-lined baking sheet.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a pot that holds at least 6 quarts over medium heat until it reaches 330°F on a deep-fry thermometer.

Blot the potatoes completely dry with more towels. Gently drop one-third of the potatoes into the oil and increase the heat to medium high (the oil temperature will drop to about 300°F and then gradually rise—it’s fine if it doesn’t return to 330°F). Cook, stirring occasionally with a skimmer or a large slotted spoon, until the potatoes soften (you should be able to cut them with the side of the spoon) and are slightly blistered and creamier in color (remove them if they start to brown), 2 to 3 minutes.

Scoop out the potatoes, shaking them to drain off excess oil, and transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towels, arranging them in a single layer. Fry the remaining 2 batches of potatoes in the same manner, letting the oil return to 330°F before each batch.

Heat the oil until it reaches 360°F. Add one-third of the potatoes and cook, stirring, until they turn golden-brown and become crisp (to test, carefully drain one on paper towels and try it), 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the fries to a baking sheet lined with fresh paper towels and sprinkle generously with salt. Fold the edges of the paper towels up and over the fries (to make a little pouch) and shake well so the salt is evenly distributed. Serve the fries immediately. Fry the remaining 2 batches of fries in the same manner, letting the oil return to 360°F before each batch.

Twice-Baked Potatoes with Cheese & Bacon

Twice-baked potatoes have it all; they deliver the fluffy texture of mashed potatoes combined with the satisfyingly chewy texture of baked potato skins.

• 4 medium russet potatoes (about 8 ounces each), scrubbed
• 3-1/2 Tbs. unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 1/2 cup crème fraîche or sour cream, at room temperature
• 1/4 cup half-and-half, warmed
• 3/4 cup shredded sharp Cheddar or Gruyère
• 1/4 cup lightly packed fi nely grated Parmigiano Reggiano (about 3/4 ounce)
• 5 slices bacon, cooked and crumbled
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. snipped fresh chives or fi nely chopped scallions (both white and green parts; optional)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Set the potatoes directly on the oven rack and bake until tender all the way through, 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes. Transfer the potatoes to a work surface and let them cool for 10 to 15 minutes.

Examine each potato to see if there’s a way to halve it to give you two shallow, wide halves rather than taller, narrower ones. With a large chef's knife, slice each potato in half lengthwise, cutting cleanly— not sawing—so as not to tear the skin. Using a dishtowel or oven mitt to protect your hand from the heat, hold a potato half in one hand and gently scoop out the flesh with a spoon, leaving the shells 1/4 to 1/8 inch thick.Repeat with the remaining halves. Force all the flesh through a potato ricer or mash it with a potato masher; transfer it to a mixing bowl.

With a wooden spoon, stir 3 Tbs. of the butter, the crème fraîche, half-and-half, cheeses, bacon, salt, pepper to taste, and chives or scallions, if using, into the mashed potato flesh. Scoop the filling into the potato skins, compacting it lightly. For a rough-textured surface, mark it with the tines of a fork. Top each with bits of the remaining 1/2 Tbs. butter..

Heat the oven to 400°F. Arrange the potatoes on a baking sheet or in a large baking dish. Bake until heated through and beginning to brown in spots on top, 25 to 30 minutes (or 35 to 40 minutes if made ahead and refrigerated). Let sit for about 10 minutes before serving.