Classic Roasted Potatoes

This is more of a technique than a recipe, and it can easily be scaled up or down according to how many mouths you're feeding. And since roasted potatoes are a classic, they're just as likely to find their way to the table on a busy weeknight as a festive holiday meal. See the Herb-Roasted version below to add even more flavor. For more potato dishes perfect for any holiday meal, visit the Guide to Christmas Dinner, where you'll find recipes like Crushed Potato and Watercress Cakes, Twice Baked Potatoes with Sour Cream, Rustic Mashed Potatoes, and Roasted Fingerling Potatoes, just to name a few. Looking for a holiday-worthy side besides potatoes? Browse our more than 100 side dish recipes ranging from easy classics to party showstopper.

• 2 lb. waxy potatoes, left whole if very small, halved or cut into chunks if large
• 3 Tbs. olive oil, melted butter, or duck fat
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme or rosemary (optional)
• 1 tsp. coarse salt
• Plenty of freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oven to 375°F. Spread the potatoes in a single layer in a medium roasting pan or rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with the oil, season with the herbs, salt, and pepper, and toss to coat well. Roast, tossing with a spatula a few times to prevent sticking, until the potatoes are very tender throughout and the skins are somewhat shriveled and crisp, 50 to 60 minutes, depending on their size and variety. Serve hot.

Celeriac & Yukon Gold Purée

The little bit of horseradish brightens up this earthy mash, which makes a great side dish for a pork roast or chops. The best way to peel celeriac is with a sharp paring knife. For a smooth purée, use a ricer or food mill. You can make this with a hand-held potato masher, but it will be lumpy and decidedly rustic.

• 1-1/2 lb. celeriac (1 large or 2 small), peeled and roughly chopped
• 1-1/2 lb. Yukon Gold or russet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
• 1 Tbs. plus 1-1/2 tsp. coarse salt
• 3/4 cup milk or half-and-half
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 Tbs. grated fresh or prepared horseradish, or to taste
• Fresh lemon juice to taste (I use 1 scant tsp.)
• Freshly ground white pepper

Tip:

Celeriac needs to be peeled with a knife, rather than a vegetable peeler.

Put the celeriac and potatoes in a pot, cover with water by at least an inch, and add 1 Tbs. of the salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium, cover partway, and cook until very tender, 20 to 25 min. Drain. Return the vegetables to the pot and set it over medium heat for 1 to 2 min., shaking and stirring to evaporate any excess water. Rinse a small saucepan in cold water (this will make the pan easier to clean later); pour in the milk (or half-and-half). Bring to just below a simmer over medium heat; set aside. Force the vegetables through a ricer or food mill and return them to the boiling pot. Beat in the butter with a wooden spoon. Add the milk to the potatoes a little at a time, beating vigorously after each addition. Stir in the horseradish and lemon juice. Add the remaining 1-1/2-tsp. salt, season with pepper, and serve.

Green Beans with Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette & Parmesan Breadcrumbs

Meyer lemons are less acidic than standard lemons, and their zest and juice have an herbal, even floral, undertone that makes them worth seeking out. You can also substitute regular lemons, but expect a sharper taste.

• 1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs
• 1/2 cup plus 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• Finely grated zest of one Meyer lemon
• 1/4 cup fresh Meyer lemon juice
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 2 lb. fresh green beans, trimmed

Heat the oven to 350°F. In a small bowl, toss the breadcrumbs with 2 Tbs. of the oil, a generous pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Arrange in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and toast until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Let cool and then transfer to a bowl and mix in the cheese.

In a medium bowl, whisk the lemon zest and juice, cream, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Slowly whisk in the remaining 1/2 cup oil.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook the green beans in the boiling water until tender, 4 to 6 minutes; drain well. Toss the beans with the vinaigrette. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Transfer the beans to a serving platter and sprinkle with the breadcrumbs.

Potato & Rutabaga Gratin with Blue Cheese

While rutabagas taste and behave a lot like turnips, they’re nuttier, less peppery, and creamier, which is why I prefer them in gratins. The easiest way to peel a rutabaga— especially a waxed one—is with a sharp paring knife. Use a very sharp knife or a mandoline to slice the rutabaga and potatoes.

• 3 cups heavy cream
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 hearty sprigs fresh thyme
• Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
• 3 Tbs. melted unsalted butter; more butter for the foil
• 1 medium rutabaga (about 1-1/2 lb.), peeled, quartered, and very thinly sliced
• 2 to 3 russet potatoes (about 1-1/2 lb.), peeled and very thinly sliced
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 oz. blue cheese, such as Maytag, Roquefort, or Bleu d’Auvergne, crumbled
• 3 Tbs. fresh breadcrumbs, toasted (see How to make fresh breadcrumbs for instructions)

Tip:

For the neatest servings, let the gratin sit for at least 10 min. before slicing.

Heat the oven to 375°F. Rinse a small saucepan in cold water (this will make the pan easier to clean later), add-the cream, garlic, bay leaf, thyme, and nutmeg. Bring to just below a simmer over medium heat, remove from the heat, cover, and set aside to infuse for about 30 min.

Brush a large gratin dish or 3-qt. flameproof casserole dish with a little of the melted butter. Arrange half of the rutabaga slices in the bottom of the dish, followed by half of the potato slices. Season with salt and pepper. Dot the surface with the blue cheese. Continue with another layer of rutabaga slices and a final layer of potatoes. Season the top with salt and pepper. Strain the seasoned cream over the top. In a small bowl, combine the breadcrumbs with the remaining melted butter and sprinkle over the top. Butter the dull side of a large sheet of foil and cover the gratin. Bake for 40 min., remove the foil, and continue to bake until the top is browned, the sides are bubbly, and the potatoes are tender when pierced, another 30 to 40 min. Let sit for 10 min. before serving.

Mushrooms & Spinach with Soppressata Crisps

Cremini mushrooms (also called “baby bellas”) look similar to button mushrooms but have brown caps and a meatier texture.

• 1 oz. very thinly sliced hot soppressata or other spicy dried sausage, slices quartered (about 1/4 cup or 8 slices 1/8 inch thick)
• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more for drizzling
• 15 oz. cremini mushrooms, halved if small or quartered or cut into sixths if very large (scant 5 cups)
• 5 medium scallions (white and green parts), trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces (1-1/2 cups)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 5 oz. baby spinach (about 6 cups)

Put the soppressata in a large (preferably 12-inch) skillet over medium heat. Cook until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a small plate lined with paper towels. Increase the heat to medium high and let the pan heat up for 1 minute. Pour in the oil and swirl to coat the pan. As soon as the oil is shimmering—but not smoking—add the mushrooms in an even layer. Season with salt and pepper and let cook undisturbed until the mushrooms have begun to brown, about 3 minutes. Add the scallion pieces and sauté, stirring as needed, until the mushrooms are golden brown and tender and the scallions are lightly browned in places and softened, another 6 to 7 minutes. If the vegetables seem to be cooking too fast or the pan bottom is starting to burn, lower the heat to medium. (If using an electric stovetop, take the pan off the heat momentarily to let the pan cool.) Stir in the garlic and cook for another 30 seconds. Turn off the heat and add the spinach and crisped soppressata, flipping and stirring to blend and to wilt the spinach. Season to taste with salt and pepper, drizzle with a little olive oil, and serve immediately.

Parsnip Pancakes with Caramelized Onions & Sour Cream

These pancakes are perfect partners for a simple roast like pork, lamb, or chicken. The onions can be cooked ahead and reheated just before serving; the parsnips can also be parcooked, grated, and combined with the chopped leek a few hours ahead. 

• 3 Tbs. olive oil
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 large or 2 small yellow onions, thinly sliced (to yield about 2 cups)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 lb. small to medium parsnips (about 6  medium), peeled (if very thick, halve them lengthwise)
• 1 medium leek, white part only, finely chopped (to yield about 1/2 cup)
• 1 large egg, lightly beaten
• 3 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• Sour cream for garnish

In a medium skillet, heat 1 Tbs. each of the olive oil and butter over medium heat. When the foam subsides, add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until very soft and golden, 20 to 25 minutes; reduce the heat if they brown too quickly. Season with salt to taste and set aside.

Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, bring 2 quarts salted water to a boil. Add the parsnips (cut them in half if they don’t fit in the pan) and cook for 3 minutes. Drain, run under cold water to cool them quickly, and drain again very well. Grate the parsnips in a food processor fitted with a medium grating disk. In a medium bowl, combine the parsnips,  leek, and egg. Stir in the flour, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/8 tsp. pepper.

In a 10-to 12-inch heavy skillet, heat the remaining 2 Tbs. oil and 1 Tbs. butter over medium-high heat until the foam subsides. Shape the parsnip mixture into four equal balls. Put them in the skillet and press on each with a flat spatula to make a cake about 3-1/2 inches wide. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until browned on one side, 4 to 6  minutes. Turn the cakes over and brown the other side, 4 to 5 minutes. Flip to recrisp the first side, about 30 seconds. Drain briefly on paper towels and then serve while hot, garnished with a large dollop of sour cream and the caramelized onions.

Garlicky Braised Kale with Sun-Dried Tomatoes

Braising softens kale, which will be a little tough and leathery if undercooked. Unfortunately, kale also loses its bright green color when properly cooked. As a variation, try using the pretty new variety of kale called cavolo nero, or Tuscan kale, in this recipe. Or use young turnip greens. You can also vary this recipe by sautéing onions or bacon with the garlic, or by adding red pepper flakes.Watch the Test Kitchen's video to get a few quick tips on trimming kale.

• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 5 cloves garlic, cut in half, smashed, and peeled
• 2 Tbs. finely chopped oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, well drained
• 7 oz. stemmed kale leaves (from about 1/2 large bunch kale), washed and cut into 1-inch ribbons
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup low-salt chicken stock (canned is fine, but don't use low-fat)
• 1/2 tsp. balsamic vinegar
• 1/2 oz. crumbled goat cheese (optional)

Heat the olive oil in a Dutch oven or a 3- to 4-qt. soup pot over medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté, stirring, until starting to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the sun-dried tomatoes and stir to combine. Add the kale, tossing to coat it well with the oil. Season with the salt and a few grinds of pepper, and continue stirring until all the kale is wilted. Add the stock, bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, cover and cook until the kale has softened, about 8 minutes. Uncover, turn the heat to high, and boil away the remaining liquid, stirring frequently, until the pan is almost dry. Take the pan off the heat. Season with the vinegar and stir to combine. Transfer to a small serving dish or plates. Top with the crumbled goat cheese, if you like.

Creamed Spinach Amandine

An elegant side dish for Slow-Roasted Beef Tenderloin

• 20 oz. fresh spinach, stemmed, washed, and drained (about 8 cups, loosely packed)
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup sliced almonds, toasted until lightly golden
• 1/2 Tbs. almond oil (or walnut or hazelnut oil)

Heat a large nonstick pan over medium heat. Add a large handful of spinach, and as it wilts and makes room in the pan, add more spinach. When it’s all wilted, pour off any liquid in the pan, add the heavy cream, and season with salt and pepper. Keep on low heat until serving.

To serve, sprinkle each portion of spinach with the toasted almonds and drizzle with the nut oil.

Pearl Onion Gratin with Parmesan, Savory & Thyme

• 2 lb. frozen pearl onions, thawed
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 3 4-inch sprigs fresh thyme
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted
• 1 cup coarse fresh breadcrumbs
• 1/4 cup freshly, finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano
• 1/2 tsp. dried savory leaves, crumbled

Heat the oven to 400°F. Put the onions and 3/4 cup water in a large saucepan over high heat. Stir and separate the onions with a fork as they heat. When the water boils, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and simmer for 5 minutes. Drain well and pat dry.

Combine the cream, thyme, and 1/2 tsp. salt in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. When the cream comes to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, brush a shallow 2-qt. gratin or baking dish with 1 Tbs. butter. In a small bowl, toss the breadcrumbs, Parmigiano, savory, the remaining 2 Tbs. melted butter, 1/2 tsp. salt, and several grinds of pepper.

Spread the onions in the baking dish. Pick out and discard the thyme sprigs from the cream. Pour the cream over the onions and scatter the breadcrumbs on top. Bake until the breadcrumbs are a deep golden brown and the cream is bubbling furiously around the edges, about 30 minutes. Let rest 10 minutes before serving.

Creamy Parmesan Swiss Chard Gratin

I like the variety of Swiss chard called "Bright Lights," which has yellow and pink stalks, but any Swiss chard will work fine. The chard leaves just need wilting for this gratin, but be sure to sauté the stems until lightly browned; this softens their flavor.

• 1/2 cup toasted or stale coarse breadcrumbs
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter; more for coating the gratin pan
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 2 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
• 3 strips bacon (about 2-1/2 oz.)
• 1 lb. (about 1 bunch) Swiss chard, washed and drained, stems removed and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices, leaves cut into 1/2-inch wide ribbons (to yield about 2-3/4 cups stems and 7 to 8 cups leaves)
• 1/3 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Heat the oven to 400ºF. Butter a shallow 5- or 6-cup ceramic gratin dish. Melt 1 Tbs. of the butter and toss it with the breadcrumbs; set aside.

In a medium saucepan, bring the cream and garlic to a boil (watch that it doesn't boil over), immediately lower the heat, and simmer vigorously for 5 minutes; the cream should be reduced to about 3/4 cup. Take the pan off the heat and remove the garlic cloves with a slotted spoon. Let the cream cool slightly, stirring occasionally to loosen. Season it with a few grinds of fresh pepper and 1/4 tsp. of the salt.

Meanwhile, in a large (12-inch) nonstick skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until crisp and browned. With tongs, transfer it to paper towels; crumble when cool. Leave the bacon fat in pan (if there's more than 2 Tbs., drain a little off). Add the remaining 1 Tbs. butter to the skillet and let it melt. Add the chard stems and sauté them over medium to medium-high heat until they're somewhat softened and browned on the edges, about 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium, add the chard leaves and toss them with the contents of the skillet. Season them with the remaining 1/4 tsp. salt. (You can add the leaves in two batches for easier handling.) Sauté until all the leaves are wilted, about 2 minutes. Use tongs to transfer the contents of the pan to the gratin dish (leave behind any excess liquid in the sauté pan), spreading them evenly.

Sauté sliced chard stems first until tender; then add the leaves and wilt them.

Sprinkle the crumbled bacon and then the cheese over the chard. Pour the seasoned cream over all and top with the buttered breadcrumbs. Bake for 25 minutes; the gratin will be brown and bubbly. Let rest for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.

Creamy Brussels Sprout Gratin

Roasting Brussels sprouts and then adding cream brings out their sweet, mellow side. This gratin can convert even the most confirmed Brussels sprout critic into a devotee.

• 2 lb. Brussels sprouts, stem ends trimmed and outer leaves removed; sprouts cut in half through the stem end
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup coarse fresh breadcrumbs (from a baguette or other white bread)
• 3/4 oz. (1/4 cup) finely grated Gruyère
• 1-1/4 cups heavy cream

Heat the oven to 425°F. Put the Brussels sprouts in a shallow baking dish that will hold them in a snug single layer (a 9x13-inch rectangle or slightly smaller oval is good). Toss with 2 Tbs. of the melted butter, 3/4  tsp. salt, and several grinds of pepper. Spread them evenly in the dish and roast, tossing once or twice, until browned in spots and tender when pierced with a knife, 25 to 30 minutes.

While the sprouts roast, combine the breadcrumbs with the remaining 1 Tbs. melted butter and 1/8  tsp. salt in a small bowl. Mix in the Gruyère.

When the Brussels sprouts are tender and browned, pour the cream over them and conntinue baking until the cream has thickened to a saucy consistency and coats the sprouts, 5  to 7 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven. Set the oven to broil and position a rack to 6 inches below the broiler. Sprinkle on the breadcrumb mixture. Broil the gratin until the crust is deep golden brown, about 5 minutes.

Basic Roasted Mushrooms

You can jazz up this basic recipe by adding Rosemary-Lemon Thyme Oil or Moroccan Spice Rub when you toss the mushrooms with olive oil and salt and pepper before roasting. Or toss the mushrooms with Sesame Sea Salt, Caramelized Shallot Butter, Ginger-Lemon Soy Splash, or Toasted Coriander & Garlic Oil after they come out of the oven.

• 1 lb. mushrooms (cremini or small white), wiped clean, and stems trimmed flush with the cap 
• 1 to 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Fresh lemon juice (optional)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 475° F. Line a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet with parchment. In a medium bowl, toss the mushrooms with enough of the olive oil to coat generously, the salt, and a few grinds of pepper. 

Turn the mushrooms out onto the baking sheet and arrange them stem side down. If the mushrooms cover the baking sheet sparsely, arrange them toward the edges of the baking sheet for the best browning. Roast the mushrooms until brown on the bottom, 20 to 25 minutes. Flip and continue to roast until browned on the top, 5 to 10 minutes.

Return the mushrooms to the bowl in which you tossed them with the oil, or put them in a clean serving bowl. If they seem a bit dry, drizzle them with a little oil. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, if using.

Potatoes Mousseline

• 1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted
• 3 lb. russet potatoes, peeled and cut into lengthwise quarters
• Kosher salt
• 3/4 cup whole milk
• 1 cup heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
• Freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oven to 250°F. Brush a 9x13-inch baking dish with some of the melted butter. Put the potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with cold water by at least 1 inch. Add 2 tsp. salt, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a gentle boil, cover the pan partially, and cook until the potatoes are quite tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain and return the potatoes to the pan. Over low heat, shake the pan until the potatoes are dry and no longer steam profusely, about 2 minutes.

Pass the potatoes through a ricer (or force through a coarse sieve with a rubber spatula) into a large bowl. Stir in the milk and half of the melted butter with a wooden spoon. Whisk the whipped cream a few times to fluff it up and then gently stir about one-third of it into the potato mixture to lighten it with the whisk. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the rest of the whipped cream. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Transfer the potatoes to the baking dish. Spread evenly, and drizzle with the remaining butter. Bake the mousseline for 30 minutes until heated through. Just before serving, heat the broiler to high and broil the potatoes until lightly browned, 2 to 4 minutes.

Braised Fennel with Pastis

If you don’t have a pan large enough to hold all the fennel wedges in one layer, brown the fennel in batches on top of the stove, and then braise them in a covered pan in the oven. Plan on one large bulb for every two people. Pastis, an anise-flavored liquor, is my favorite, but if you can’t find it, Pernod is a good substitute.

• 2 large bulbs fennel (about 21/2  pounds total), rinsed and patted dry
• Pinch saffron threads (optional)
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. pastis, or 1/4 cup dry white wine or vermouth
• 3/4 cup homemade or low-salt chicken broth or  water

Trim off the fennel stalks. Trim about 2 tablespoons of the frilly, dill-like leaves from the stalks and set aside. Discard the stalks (or save to add to soups or broths). Cut the bulbs into lengthwise quarters, or, if the bulbs are very large, into sixths. Each wedge should be 2 to 3 inches wide and should be held intact with a portion of the core. Set a large (10-inch) skillet over medium heat. If using the saffron, put it in the dry pan and let heat for a couple of minutes. Pour in the olive oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. Add the fennel wedges, flat side down, and season lightly with salt and pepper. Increase the heat to medium high. When the first side is brown, after 3 minutes, turn the fennel and season again with salt and pepper. Brown the second flat side, turn, season, and brown the rounded side the same way. The total browning time should be about 10 minutes.

Lower the heat to medium, give the pan a minute to cool slightly, and then add the pastis, wine, or vermouth. Let the alcohol cook until nearly evaporated, 30 to 60 seconds, and then add the broth or water. Lower the heat to medium low, cover, and simmer gently until the core is tender when pierced with a table fork, 30 to 40  minutes. Turn the pieces every 10  minutes so they cook evenly and, if necessary, add more water, 1/4 cup at a time, to keep the pan from getting dry. (A  glass lid makes it easy to monitor the moisture level.) While the fennel cooks, mince the reserved leaves.

Transfer the fennel wedges to a platter, turning them to sit on their rounded sides. If the braising liquid looks watery, boil briefly until it reduces to a syrupy consistency. Drizzle the syrupy juices over the fennel, season to taste with salt and pepper, and sprinkle the minced leaves on top. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

Flaky Cheese Biscuits

Because of all the delicious cheese, these biscuits may spread a bit as they bake, but they're so good, it really doesn't matter how they look.

• 8 oz. (1-3/4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more as needed for shaping the dough
• 1 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 2-1/4 tsp. baking powder
• 3/4 tsp. kosher salt
• 1/4 tsp. baking soda
• 4 oz. (8 Tbs.) very cold unsalted butter
• 3/4 cup very cold buttermilk
• 2 cups grated sharp Cheddar, Gruyère, Gouda, or provolone

Mix and fold the dough:

Heat the oven to 500°F and position a rack in the middle of the oven. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment. Put the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and baking soda in a large mixing bowl and stir with a whisk to distribute the ingredients evenly.

With a sharp knife or a bench knife, cut the cold butter crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Stack 3 or 4 slices and cut them into three even strips. Rotate the stack a quarter turn and cut the strips in half. You should create 6 small bits of butter per slice. Toss the butter bits into the bowl with the flour mixture. Continue cutting all the butter in the same manner and adding it to the flour mixture.

When all the butter is in the bowl with the flour, use your fingers to separate the butter bits (they tend to stick to each other), coat all the butter pieces with flour, and evenly distribute them throughout the flour mixture. Don’t rub the butter too hard with your fingertips or palms, as this will melt the butter. You’re just trying to break the butter pieces apart, not blend the butter into the flour.

When all the butter is evenly distributed, add the cold buttermilk and stir with a large spoon until all or most of the flour is absorbed by the buttermilk and the dough forms a coarse lump, about 1 minute. 

Pat and fold the dough:

Dust a work surface with flour and dump the dough onto the floured surface, cleaning out the bowl with a spatula or a plastic bowl scraper. Dust the top of the dough and your hands with flour, and press the dough into a 3/4-inch-thick rectangle. Sprinkle a small amount of additional flour and one-third of the cheese on the top of the dough. Fold the dough over on itself in three sections, as if folding a letter (also called a tri-fold). With a bench knife or metal spatula, lift the dough off the counter and dust under it with flour to prevent sticking, if necessary. Dust the top with flour and press the dough out again into a 3/4-inch-thick rectangle. Sprinkle on another third of the cheese and repeat the tri-fold. Repeat this procedure one more time (three times in all), using the remaining cheese.

Cut and bake the biscuits:

After the third tri-fold, dust under and on top of the dough, if needed, and roll or press the dough into a 1/2-inch-thick oval. Dip a 2-inch or 2-3/4-inch round biscuit cutter in flour and start cutting biscuits, dipping the cutter in flour between each biscuit. Press straight down to cut and lift straight up to remove; twisting the biscuit cutter will seal the sides and interfere with rising. Use a bench knife or spatula to transfer the biscuits to the baking sheet, placing them about 1/2 inch apart.

Gently gather any scraps of dough, pat and roll out again, and cut more biscuits from the remaining dough. You can gather and roll the scraps two times total and still get good results (the more times you roll out, the tougher the biscuits will be).

Put the baking sheet in the oven and reduce the temperature to 450°F. Bake for 8 minutes; rotate the pan 180 degrees; continue baking until both the tops and bottoms of the biscuits are a rich golden brown and the biscuits have doubled in height, revealing flaky layers on the sides, 4 to 6 minutes more. It’s all right if some butter seeps from the biscuits. Remove the pan from the oven and set it on a cooling rack, leaving the biscuits on the pan. Cool the biscuits for at least 3 minutes and serve them hot or warm (they will stay warm for about 20 minutes).

Flaky Buttermilk Biscuits

For a few delicious variations on this recipe, check out Cheese Biscuits, Fresh Herb Biscuits, and Caramelized Onion Biscuits.

• 8 oz. (1-3/4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more as needed for shaping the dough
• 1 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 2-1/4 tsp. baking powder
• 3/4 tsp. kosher salt
• 1/4 tsp. baking soda
• 4 oz. (8 Tbs.) very cold unsalted butter
• 3/4 cup very cold buttermilk

Mix the dough:

Heat the oven to 500°F and position a rack in the middle of the oven. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment. Put the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and baking soda in a large mixing bowl and stir with a whisk to distribute the ingredients evenly.

Cut the butter into small bits and toss with the flour. With a sharp knife or a bench knife, cut the cold butter crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Stack 3 or 4 slices and cut them into three even strips. Rotate the stack a quarter turn and cut the strips in half. You should create 6 small bits of butter per slice. Toss the butter bits into the bowl with the flour mixture. Continue cutting all the butter in the same manner and adding it to the flour mixture.

When all the butter is in the bowl with the flour, use your fingers to separate the butter bits (they tend to stick to each other), coat all the butter pieces with flour, and evenly distribute them throughout the flour mixture. Don’t rub the butter too hard with your fingertips or palms, as this will melt the butter. You’re just trying to break the butter pieces apart, not blend the butter into the flour.

When all the butter is evenly distributed, add the cold buttermilk and stir with a large spoon until all or most of the flour is absorbed by the buttermilk and the dough forms a coarse lump, about 1 minute.

Pat and fold the dough:

Dust a work surface with flour and dump the dough onto the floured surface, cleaning out the bowl with a spatula or a plastic bowl scraper. Dust the top of the dough and your hands with flour, and press the dough into a 3/4-inch-thick rectangle. Sprinkle a small amount of additional flour on the top of the dough. Fold the dough over on itself in three sections, as if folding a letter (also called a tri-fold). With a bench knife or metal spatula, lift the dough off the counter and dust under it with flour to prevent sticking, if necessary. Dust the top with flour and press the dough out again into a 3/4-inch-thick rectangle and repeat the tri-fold. Repeat this procedure one more time (three times in all).

Cut and bake the biscuits:

After the third tri-fold, dust under and on top of the dough, if needed, and roll or press the dough into a 1/2-inch-thick oval. Dip a 2-inch or 2-3/4-inch round biscuit cutter in flour and start cutting biscuits, dipping the cutter in flour between each biscuit. Press straight down to cut and lift straight up to remove; twisting the biscuit cutter will seal the sides and interfere with rising. Use a bench knife or spatula to transfer the biscuits to the baking sheet, placing them about 1/2 inch apart.

Gently gather any scraps of dough, pat and roll out again, and cut more biscuits from the remaining dough. You can gather and roll the scraps two times total and still get good results (the more times you roll out, the tougher the biscuits will be).

Put the baking sheet in the oven and reduce the temperature to 450°F. Bake for 8 minutes; rotate the pan 180 degrees; continue baking until both the tops and bottoms of the biscuits are a rich golden brown and the biscuits have doubled in height, revealing flaky layers on the sides, 4 to 6 minutes more. It’s all right if some butter seeps from the biscuits. Remove the pan from the oven and set it on a cooling rack, leaving the biscuits on the pan. Cool the biscuits for at least 3 minutes and serve them hot or warm (they will stay warm for about 20 minutes).

Cauliflower with Brown Butter, Pears, Sage & Hazelnuts

This dish has the advantage of cooking on the stovetop, freeing up valuable oven space for other dishes.Want to see this recipe in action? Watch the Video Recipe to see how this dish comes together. 

• 3 oz. (6 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 1 medium head cauliflower, cut into small florets about 3/4 inch wide
• 1/2 cup toasted, skinned, chopped hazelnuts (see tip right)
• 8 fresh sage leaves, thinly sliced crosswise
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 large ripe pears, cored and thinly sliced
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Tip:

To toast hazelnuts, spread them in a single layer on a baking sheet. Bake in a 350°F oven for 14 to 18 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes, until lightly browned. While still warm, rub them against each other in a clean dishtowel to remove the papery skins.

In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat, melt the butter until light brown and bubbly. Add the cauliflower, hazelnuts, and sage. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with 1 tsp. salt and 1/2 tsp. pepper and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the cauliflower is browned and crisp-tender, 6 to 7 minutes more.

Remove the pan from the heat. Add the pear slices and parsley. Gently toss to combine and warm the pears. Season to taste with more salt. Serve hot or at room temperature.

French Bread Rolls

Fresh from the oven, French bread rolls are light and airy on the inside, crisp and crackly on the outside. Though baking these is a bit of a project, it can be done in stages. Plus, the rolls freeze well and reheat beautifully.

• 6 cups unbleached all-purpose flour; more as-needed
• 2 Tbs. melted clarified butter, store-bought ghee, or light olive oil; more for greasing the rising bowl and plastic wrap
• 1 package (2-1/4 tsp.) active-dry yeast
• 2 tsp. sugar, plus a pinch for the yeast
• 2 cups lukewarm water (about 70ºF)
• 1-1/4 oz. (1/2 cup) dry nonfat milk
• Scant 1 Tbs. table salt
• A few grinds of black pepper (optional)
• About 1 cup medium rye flour (optional; use all-purpose flour as a substitute) for dusting
• Yellow cornmeal (preferably medium ground) for the baker’s peel or baking sheets
• Coarse salt for sprinkling

Make the dough:

Sift the flour into a medium bowl; set aside. Brush some melted clarified butter on the interior of a large (5-qt.) bowl and one side of a piece of plastic wrap large enough to cover the bowl; set aside.

In a small bowl, stir the yeast and a pinch of sugar into 1/2 cup of the lukewarm water until dissolved. When the yeast is visibly active and bubbling, pour the remaining 1-1/2 cups lukewarm water into another large bowl. Add the 2 Tbs. clarified butter, the 2 tsp. sugar, the dry milk, salt, pepper (if using), and the dissolved yeast mixture. Add about 3 cups of the flour and stir with a wooden spoon until incorporated. Continue to add more flour (about 1/2 cup at a time) and stir until the dough comes together in a mass that leaves the sides of the bowl and is no longer easy to stir; you may not need all the flour.

With a sturdy rubber spatula, scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Flour your hands and knead the dough until it’s perfectly smooth and elastic, 3 to 5 minutes. If the dough sticks, use your bench knife or bowl scraper to release it. Add only as much additional flour as necessary to keep the dough from sticking to your hands and the work surface.

Put the dough in the greased bowl and brush the top of the dough with melted clarified butter. Cover with the greased plastic wrap and then with a clean dishtowel. Let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in volume, about 2 hours.

Uncover the bowl. Lightly flour the back of your hand and punch down the dough by giving it several swift swats. The dough will be quite sticky and spongy, so use your fingertips to help release it from the sides of the bowl, allowing it to deflate. At this point, you can either refrigerate the dough for later (see Make-Ahead Tips, below) or continue the rise. To continue the rise, turn the dough over in the bowl, cover as before, and let rise again until doubled in volume and light in texture, about 2 hours.

Shape the rolls:

Lay two clean, dry dishtowels over two baking sheets and dust them very heavily with a layer of the medium rye or all-purpose flour.

Deflate the dough by pulling it away from the sides of the bowl. Turn the dough out onto your floured work surface and gently knead the dough a few times to finish deflating. Using the blade of your bench knife or bowl scraper, cut the dough in half. Cut each half in-half again and then cut each piece into three equal pieces for a total of twelve. Cover the pieces with a clean dishtowel. Flour your hands and remove one piece of dough from under the towel, leaving the remaining pieces covered. Shape the rolls into either rounds or ovals. Cover the rolls with a clean dishtowel. Let the rolls rise, covered, until they look light and billowy, 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Set up your oven:

You want to bake your rolls as low in the oven as possible, with a metal baking pan of ice water beneath them. If you have an electric heating element on the oven floor, set an oven rack on the lowest position for the ice water pan, and position your baking stone or baking tiles on a second rack just above the pan. Otherwise, you can set your tiles or stone on the lowest oven rack and put the ice water pan directly on the floor of the oven. If you're using baking sheets instead of a stone or tiles, you may need two racks for the sheets; position them as low as possible.

Begin heating the oven to 450°F at least thirty minutes before baking. Your tiles or stone and the empty ice water pan should be in the oven as it heats; if you're baking the rolls on baking sheets, don't put them in the oven yet.

Bake the rolls:

If baking on tiles or stone, sprinkle your peel with cornmeal. Otherwise, line two large, shallow baking sheets with parchment and sprinkle them with cornmeal. Put 4 ice cubes in a 1-cup measuring cup and add enough cold water to reach the 1/4-cup mark. Set the cup next to the oven.

Gently lift the risen rolls and invert them (smooth side up) onto the prepared peel or baking sheets, but don’t remove any clinging flour from their surface. For oval rolls, use a sharp knife or a razor to make a slash from one end of the top to the other. For round rolls, use scissors to snip a crisscross in the top. Sprinkle the rolls with coarse salt.

If using tiles or a stone, lift the loaded peel by the handle and give it a little shake to make sure that the rolls aren’t sticking. Open the oven door and cover the window with a towel (to prevent contact with the ice water, which could break the window), put the peel all the way in the back of the oven over the tiles. With one swift jerk, remove the peel, leaving the rolls on the hot tiles. (It’s okay if the rolls touch when they land.) Immediately toss the ice water into the hot metal pan, remove the towel, and quickly shut the door.

If using baking sheets, put the loaded baking sheets in the oven and toss the ice water into the pan as directed in the baking-tile instructions above. If you’re using two racks, switch the positions of the sheets after the first 12 minutes of baking.

Bake the rolls at 450°F until light golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Reduce the heat to 400°F and bake until deep golden brown, about 5 minutes. Turn the oven off an let the rolls remain in the oven with the door closed to finish crisping for another 5 minutes. Remove the rolls from the oven and let them cool on a wire rack for at least 20 minutes.

Smashed Potatoes with Horseradish Crème Fraîche

For a twist on classic mashed potatoes, borrow this technique from Chef Goin's restaurant AOC: Boil tiny fingerling potatoes, crush them slightly, enrich them with butter, and top them with crème fraîche. Here, a little horseradish heats things up, a perfect complement to the slow-roasted prime rib.

• 3/4 cup crème fraîche
• 3 Tbs. prepared horseradish, more to taste
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1-1/2 lb. small fingerling potatoes or baby potatoes, such as baby Yukons or Red Bliss
• 4 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Combine the crème fraîche and horseradish in a small bowl. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and more horseradish, if you like.

Put the potatoes in a medium pot, cover with cold water (by about 2 inches), and add 1 Tbs. salt. Bring to a boil, turn down the heat to medium low, and simmer gently until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a skewer, 15 to 20 minutes. Reserve about 1/4 cup of the water and drain the potatoes.

Let the potatoes cool for a moment and then slightly smash them with a wooden spoon just until they crack open. Return the potatoes to the pot over medium heat. Add the butter and 3/4 tsp. salt. Stir to coat the potatoes with the butter. Add a few tablespoons of the reserved potato water to help coat and glaze the potatoes. Stir in the parsley, taste, and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.

Top each serving with crème fraîche and a sprinkle of pepper.

Mustard & Rosemary Roasted Potatoes

These potatoes start out looking very wet, but the mixture cooks down to leave the potatoes crisp, crusty, and tangy.

• 1/3 cup plus 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1 Tbs. dry vermouth or other dry white wine
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh rosemary
• 1 tsp. coarse salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 lb. red-skinned potatoes, cut into 3/4- to 1-inch dice

Heat the oven to 400°F. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the mustard, olive oil, vermouth, garlic, rosemary, salt, and pepper. Add the potatoes and toss to coat. Dump the potatoes onto a large rimmed baking sheet and spread them in a single layer. Roast, tossing with a spatula a few times, until the potatoes are crusty on the outside and tender throughout, 50 to 55 minutes. Serve hot.