Beef Stroganoff with Cremini & Porcini Mushrooms

Beef tenderloin is traditional and works great for Stroganoff—I especially like it because it's so tender and cooks quickly. But it isn't necessarily the most flavorful cut. So, I  bump up the flavors in the dish by using earthy, intense porcini mushrooms to infuse the beef broth and finishing the sauce with crème fraîche, which I find to be lighter than the usual sour cream, with a nuanced nuttiness.

• 1-1/2 cups beef broth (low-salt, if canned) or veal stock
• 1/2 oz. dried porcini mushrooms (about 1/2 cup)
• 3 Tbs. vegetable oil (not olive oil)
• 1/4 cup unsalted butter
• 8 to 10 oz. fresh cremini mushrooms, stems trimmed, caps wiped clean and thickly sliced
• 1 lb. beef tenderloin, cut into strips about 2 inches long and 1/2 inch wide
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1 medium onion, thinly sliced
• 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
• 1/2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• 5 Tbs. crème fraîche

For serving:

• Cooked egg noodles or fresh egg fettuccine
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Tip:

If you want to double the recipe, use two skillets rather than trying to crowd the pan.

In a small saucepan, combine the broth and dried porcini. Bring to a boil, remove from the heat, cover, and let steep for 30 min. With a slotted spoon, lift the porcini out of the broth; chop coarsely and set aside. Strain the broth through a cheesecloth-lined sieve and set aside.

Strain the porcini-enriched beef broth to remove grit from the mushrooms. The porcini and their soaking liquid give the Stroganoff great depth of flavor.

Heat 1 Tbs. each of the oil and butter in a large sauté pan or skillet (a 12-inch skillet is perfect) over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the cremini mushrooms and sauté, stirring often with a wooden spoon, until the mushrooms are softened and well browned, 5 to 6 min. Take the pan off the heat and transfer the cremini to a bowl.

Season the beef strips generously with salt and pepper and dredge them in the flour. Return the pan to medium-high heat and add the remaining 2 Tbs. of oil. When the oil is very hot, swirl to coat the pan and then add the beef, spreading it in a single layer and stirring with the wooden spoon so that it browns quickly on all sides, 1 to 2 min. Be sure not to overcrowd the pan; work in batches if necessary. Sauté the beef just long enough so that it browns slightly on all sides; don't overcook it. Transfer the beef to the bowl with the cremini.

Dredge the beef in flour to help it brown quickly in the pan. Photo: Amy Albert

Brown the meat quickly in a single layer. Don't crowd the pan; work in batches if you don't have a 12-inch skillet.

Still over medium-high heat, melt the remaining 3 Tbs. butter in the pan and add the onion. Sauté, scraping up the browned bits in the bottom of the pan with the wooden spoon, until the onion just begins to brown, 4 to 5 min. Pour in the reserved porcini soaking broth. Stir in the mustard and Worcestershire sauce and then add the porcini, cremini, and beef, along with any accumulated juices. Bring to a simmer while stirring. Cook just long enough so that the sauce thickens slightly, 1 to 2 min. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the crème fraîche, cooking just until heated through. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Serve over the egg noodles or fettuccine, sprinkled with the parsley.

Stir in the crème fraîche and cook just until heated through.

Grilled Steak and Peppered Spaetzle with Black Trumpet Mushrooms and Shallot Marmalade

This modern update on homey beef Stroganoff elevates it to a restaurant-worthy steak dinner: grilled flatiron steak on a bed of spaetzle with caramelized shallots and earthy, fragrant black trumpet mushrooms, topped with a drizzle of crème fraîche

For the shallot marmalade:

• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 8 oz. shallots, sliced 1/8 inch thick (1-1/2 cups)
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup sherry vinegar

For the spaetzle:

• 1 cup sour cream
• 1/4 cup whole milk
• 2 large eggs
• 4 tsp. kosher salt
• 1 tsp. freshly cracked black peppercorns
• 9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour

For the mushrooms:

• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 5-1/4 oz. black trumpet mushrooms, washed and thickly sliced (3 cups)
• 3 Tbs. finely chopped shallots
• 2 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
• 1-1/2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
• 2 Tbs. sherry vinegar; more to taste
• 1-1/2 tsp. white truffle oil (optional)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil

For the cooking the steaks and serving:

• 4 6-oz. beef flatiron steaks
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup crème fraîche or sour cream, whisked to to loosen
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• Dill sprigs, for garnish

Make the shallot marmalade:

Melt the butter in a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the sugar and vinegar, reduce the heat to medium low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 15 minutes.

Make the spaetzle:

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Have ready a large bowl of ice water.

Purée the sour cream, milk, eggs, salt, and cracked pepper in a blender until smooth. Pour the mixture into large bowl and fold in the flour.

To cook the spaetzle, place a spaetzle maker over the boiling water. Push the dough through the holes, letting it fall into the water below. (If you don’t have a spaetzle maker, use a rubber spatula to push the dough through the holes of a colander set over the pot of water.) The dough will form small dumplings as it drops into the water. Allow the spaetzle to rise to the surface and float for about 30 seconds before transferring it to the ice water with a slotted spoon. Let cool completely, about 5 minutes. Drain well, transfer to a large bowl, toss with the oil, and reserve.

Cook the mushrooms:

Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over high heat until very hot. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until softened, 5 minutes. Add the shallots, garlic, and thyme. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in the sherry vinegar and continue to cook until the pan is almost dry, about 1 minute.

Take the pan off the heat and drizzle in the truffle oil (if using). Season to taste with salt and pepper, and a touch of vinegar, if necessary. Keep warm.

Grill the steaks and serve:

Season the steak generously with salt and pepper. Heat a grill pan (or a large cast-iron skillet) over medium-high heat until very hot. Working in batches if necessary, grill the beef until medium rare (130°F to 135°F on an instant-read thermometer), 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes.

In a small bowl, combine the crème fraîche and 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper.

Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the
shallot marmalade and cook until heated through and thinned, about 2
minutes. Add the spaetzle and the mushrooms; cook, stirring, until
heated through, 2 to 3 minutes.

Thinly slice the steak across the grain. Serve the steak over the
spaetzle, drizzled with the crème fraîche and garnished with the dill
sprigs.

Chinese Restaurant-Style Sautéed Green Beans

Choose young, fresh green beans that are all about the same size for this dish. I think it’s easiest to start out stirring the beans with tongs and then switch to a heatproof spatula to add the garlic and sauce.

• 1 Tbs. less-sodium soy sauce
• 1 Tbs. honey
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 12 oz. green beans, trimmed
• Kosher salt
• 1 Tbs. minced garlic

Combine the soy sauce, honey, and 1 Tbs. water in a small dish and set near the stove. Set a shallow serving dish near the stove, too.

In a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan, heat the butter with the olive oil over medium-high heat. When the butter is melted, add the green beans and 1/2 tsp. salt and toss with tongs to coat well. Cook, turning the beans occasionally, until most are well browned, shrunken, and tender, 7 to 8 minutes. (The butter in the pan will have turned dark brown.)

Reduce the heat to low, add the garlic, and cook, stirring constantly with a heatproof rubber spatula, until the garlic is softened and fragrant, 15 to 20 seconds. Carefully add the soy mixture (you’ll need to scrape the honey into the pan). Cook, stirring, until the liquid reduces to a glazey consistency that coats the beans, 30 to 45 seconds.

Immediately transfer the beans to the serving dish, scraping the pan with the spatula to get all of the garlicky sauce. Let sit for a few minutes and then serve warm.

Mushrooms & Spinach with Soppressata Crisps

Cremini mushrooms (also called “baby bellas”) look similar to button mushrooms but have brown caps and a meatier texture.

• 1 oz. very thinly sliced hot soppressata or other spicy dried sausage, slices quartered (about 1/4 cup or 8 slices 1/8 inch thick)
• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more for drizzling
• 15 oz. cremini mushrooms, halved if small or quartered or cut into sixths if very large (scant 5 cups)
• 5 medium scallions (white and green parts), trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces (1-1/2 cups)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 5 oz. baby spinach (about 6 cups)

Put the soppressata in a large (preferably 12-inch) skillet over medium heat. Cook until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a small plate lined with paper towels. Increase the heat to medium high and let the pan heat up for 1 minute. Pour in the oil and swirl to coat the pan. As soon as the oil is shimmering—but not smoking—add the mushrooms in an even layer. Season with salt and pepper and let cook undisturbed until the mushrooms have begun to brown, about 3 minutes. Add the scallion pieces and sauté, stirring as needed, until the mushrooms are golden brown and tender and the scallions are lightly browned in places and softened, another 6 to 7 minutes. If the vegetables seem to be cooking too fast or the pan bottom is starting to burn, lower the heat to medium. (If using an electric stovetop, take the pan off the heat momentarily to let the pan cool.) Stir in the garlic and cook for another 30 seconds. Turn off the heat and add the spinach and crisped soppressata, flipping and stirring to blend and to wilt the spinach. Season to taste with salt and pepper, drizzle with a little olive oil, and serve immediately.

Chilled Red Pepper Soup with Sautéed Shrimp

This cold soup builds on the flavors of Spanish gazpacho, only roasted red peppers take the place of tomatoes in the lead role.

• 1 seedless English cucumber, peeled and roughly chopped
• 3 jarred roasted red peppers, cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 1-1/2 cups)
• 3 cups tomato juice
• 2 slices baguette, toasted and cut into 1-inch cubes (about 1 cup)
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. sherry vinegar or cider vinegar
• 1 medium clove garlic, minced and mashed to a paste
• 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3/4 lb. medium shrimp (36 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined
• 1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

Cut three-quarters of the cucumber into 1-inch pieces and purée in a blender with the red peppers, tomato juice, toasted bread, 6 Tbs. olive oil, 2 Tbs. vinegar, garlic, cumin, and 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper (you may have to purée the soup in batches, depending on the size of your blender). Taste and season with more salt and pepper if needed, and refrigerate until cold, at least 30 minutes and up to 1 day.

Heat 1 Tbs. of the olive oil in a large (12-inch) skillet over high heat until it’s shimmering. Add the shrimp and cook, tossing, until it starts to brown and lose its raw color, about 2 minutes. Stir in the thyme, 1/2 tsp. pepper, and 1/4 tsp. salt, and cook until the shrimp are just cooked through, about 1 minute. Transfer to a plate to cool.

Just before serving, cut the remainder of the cucumber into 1/4-inch dice (about 1/2 cup) and toss with the remaining tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, the remaining 1 tsp. sherry vinegar, and 1/2 tsp. salt. Serve the soup cold in individual bowls, garnished with the cucumber and shrimp.

Vegetable Curry and Black Rice

This is an American adaptation of the different spice blends of curry in India. You can jazz it up with black rice.

For the curry spice blend

• 2 Tbs. ground turmeric
• 1 stick cinnamon or 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1 tsp. cardamom seed
• 1/4 tsp. whole cloves
• 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
• 1/2 tsp. fennel seed
• 1/4 tsp. coriander seed
• 1/4 tsp. fenugreek
• 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

For the rice

• 1 cup black rice or basmati rice
• 2 cups water
• 1 tsp. salt, plus more for seasoning
• 2 Tbs. brown butter, divided
• 1 tsp. saffron threads
• 1/4 cup chopped pistachios
• 1 small onion, cut into small dice
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tsp. minced fresh ginger
• 2 tsp. Curry Spice Blend
• 1-1/2 cups chicken stock or vegetable stock
• 1 tsp. sugar
• 1 tsp. molasses
• 2 tsp. freshly squeezed lime juice, plus lime wedges for serving
• 1 large russet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
• 3 carrots, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 rutabaga or turnip (about 10 ounces), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1/2 head cauliflower or broccoli, cut into florets
• 1/2 cup coconut milk
• 1/4 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
• 4 sprigs fresh cilantro

Tip:

To make brown butter, set a heatproof container in an ice bath. Put 1/2 cup butter, cut into small chunks, in a small saucepan over low heat. The butter will melt, foam and start to turn brown and smell nutty in about 8 to 10 minutes. As soon as it hits this fragrance and color, remove the pan from the heat and pour into the container in the ice bath to stop the cooking. Extra brown butter will keep for several days in the fridge.

For the spice blend

Grind all the ingredients in a spice grinder and store, covered, in a cool, dark place. The curry will keep for up to a year, but it loses flavor over time. You can use a Madras curry blend, but it won’t be as dramatic.

For the rice

In a small saucepan, add the rice, the 2 cups water, and a pinch of salt. Cover and bring to a simmer. Decrease the heat to low, and cook, covered, for 15 minutes. When done, stir in 1 Tbs. of the brown butter, the saffron, and the pistachios. Set aside.

In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add the remaining 1 Tbs. brown butter and the onion. Sauté or “sweat” for 2 to 3 minutes, then add the garlic, ginger, the 1 tsp. salt, and the 2 tsp. curry blend. Stir for 1 minute to release the oils in the spices. Add the stock, sugar, molasses, and lime juice and simmer for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the potato, carrots, and rutabaga in a pot of cold water with a pinch of salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to a simmer, cook for 5 minutes, and add the cauliflower. Cook until the vegetables are easily pierced with a knife, another 5 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Add the coconut milk to the curry and then all of the vegetables. Simmer for another few minutes.

To serve, place 1 Tbs. of yogurt in the bottom of each of 4 serving bowls. Spoon some of the rice into the bowl and then arrange vegetables around and on the rice and add some of the curry sauce around the bowl. Garnish with the cilantro leaves and stems and lime wedges. Serve immediately.

Carrots and Parsnips with Bacon and Thyme

Bacon adds its smoky goodness to this versatile side dish. Cut the parsnips just a tad bigger than the carrots because they soften more quickly.

• 1 Tbs. fresh orange juice
• 2 tsp. red wine vinegar
• 2 tsp. honey
• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 3/4 lb. carrots (about 4 medium), peeled and cut into pieces 2 to 2-1/2 inches long and 1/2 inch wide
• 3/4lb. parsnips (about 4 medium), peeled, halved lengthwise, woody cores
  discarded, and cut into pieces 2-1/2 to 3 inches long and 1/2 inch wide
  
  
• 2 large shallots, root ends trimmed, peeled, and cut into 3/4-inch-wide wedges
• 5 sprigs fresh thyme plus 1/2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
• 2 slices bacon, cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces
• Kosher salt

Combine the orange juice, vinegar, and honey in a small bowl. Set aside.

In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the carrots, parsnips, shallots, thyme sprigs, bacon, and 1 tsp. salt; toss well to coat.

Cover the pan with the lid ajar by about 1 inch. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the shallots are limp and lightly browned and most of the carrots and parsnips have a little bit of brown on them, 8 to 12 minutes. As the mixture cooks, you should hear a gentle sizzle.

Uncover, turn the heat down to low, and cook, stirring occasionally and then gently pushing the vegetables back into a single layer so that most have direct contact with the pan, until the vegetables are tender and nicely browned, 12 to 16 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and discard the thyme sprigs. Stir in the orange-honey mixture and the thyme leaves, and season to taste with salt. Serve right away or let sit off the heat, partially covered, until ready to serve, and then reheat gently over medium-low heat.

Charred Corn and Zucchini with Basil

Charring the vegetables gives them a smoky richness and makes for mostly hands-off cooking. Put everything in the skillet and let high heat do the rest.

• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 cups fresh corn kernels (from 3 to 4 medium ears)
• 3/4 cup halved and thinly sliced zucchini
• 1/4 cup small-diced red onion
• Kosher salt
• 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil

Heat 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over high heat until shimmering. Add the corn, zucchini, onion, and 1/2 tsp. salt; stir to combine. Cook, stirring only once or twice, until the corn is lightly charred, about 4 minutes. Stir in the basil and serve.

Warm Shrimp Salad with Honeydew and Feta

This refreshing main course salad offers contrasts of all kinds—warm and cold, sweet and savory, herbal and spicy—but it’s the addition of cracked whole coriander seeds that really makes it sing.

• 1-1/2 lb. extra-jumbo (16 to 20 per lb.) shrimp, peeled (tails left on, if you like) and deveined
• Kosher salt
• Pinch cayenne
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 Tbs. finely chopped shallots
• 1 medium lime, finely grated to yield 1 tsp. zest, squeezed to yield 4 tsp. juice
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 heads frisée (about 1/2 lb.), torn into bite-size pieces
• 1 medium (3 to 4 lb.) honeydew melon, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 4 cups)
• 8 oz. feta, crumbled (about 1-1/2 cups)
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh mint
• 1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. cracked coriander seeds

Season the shrimp lightly with salt and cayenne.

In a 12-inch skillet, heat 2 Tbs. of the oil over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add the shrimp and cook on one side until pink, about 1 minute. Flip and add the shallots, lime zest, and 1 tsp. of the lime juice. Turn the heat to medium and cook until just opaque throughout, about 1 minute more.

In a large bowl, whisk the remaining 2 Tbs. oil and 1 Tbs. lime juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Toss the frisée and the melon in the vinaigrette. Divide equally among 4 dinner plates, top with the shrimp, feta, mint, and coriander and serve.

Baked Orzo with Shrimp, Lemon and Feta

All sorts of ingredients— sun-dried tomatoes, olives, peas, or corn —can be added to this baked pasta for extra flavor and color. Serve this side with a seared steak for a Mediterranean version of surf and turf.

• 5 Tbs. olive oil, more for the dish
• 1 lb. shrimp (26 to 30 per lb.), peeled and deveined
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 large clove garlic, minced
• 5 oz. baby spinach
• 1 lb. orzo
• 6 oz. feta, crumbled (about 1-1/2 cups)
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
• 3/4 cup Panko

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425°F. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Lightly coat a 2-quart baking dish with oil.

Heat 2 Tbs. oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the shrimp, sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, until the shrimp start to lose their raw color (but don’t cook through), about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Stir in the spinach and cook, tossing, until it starts to wilt, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat.

Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook according to the package instructions until al dente. Drain well and toss with the shrimp mixture, feta, 2 Tbs. oil, half the thyme, and lemon zest. Transfer to the prepared baking dish. In a small bowl, toss the breadcrumbs with the remaining Tbs. oil, the remaining tsp. thyme, and 1/4 tsp. salt. Sprinkle on top of the pasta.

Bake the pasta until the breadcrumbs brown and the pasta heats through, about 20 minutes (cover with foil if the top browns too quickly). Let cool for a couple of minutes and then serve.

Shrimp with Red Chiles, Ginger, Garlic & Scallions

• 1-1/2 lb. large shrimp, peeled and deveined
• Kosher salt
• 5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 2 fresh red hot chiles (such as Fresno or jalapeño), cored, seeded, and thinly sliced
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh ginger
• 2 bunches scallions (about 16), trimmed and sliced on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• 1-1/2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice; more to taste

Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 1 minute. Season the shrimp with 1/2 tsp. salt. Pour 2 Tbs. of the oil into the pan and then add the shrimp, garlic, chiles, and ginger. Sauté, tossing frequently, until the shrimp brown and are no longer translucent, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Add another 2 Tbs. oil, the scallions, and 1/4 tsp. salt to the pan. Sauté the scallions until they wilt and begin to brown, about 2 minutes. Return the shrimp to the pan and toss well for 30 seconds. Remove from the heat and stir in the cilantro, lemon juice, and the remaining 1 Tbs. oil. Taste and add more salt and lemon juice, if needed. Serve immediately.

Butternut Squash with Spinach, Raisins, and Pine Nuts

Elegant yet comforting, this side dish has layers of flavor thanks to the earthy-sweet squash and raisins, the fresh spinach, and the rich salty toasty top notes from the cheese and nuts.

• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 small lemon, finely grated to yield 1/2 tsp. zest and squeezed to yield 2 tsp. juice
• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1-3/4 lb. butternut squash, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch dice (about 4 cups)
• Kosher salt
• 1 medium yellow onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice
• 1/4 cup raisins
• 5 oz. mature spinach leaves, thick stems removed (about 5 packed cups)
• 1 oz. coarsely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 1/4 cup)
• 2 Tbs. toasted pine nuts

Melt the butter in a small skillet or saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, swirling occasionally, until the milk solids turn light brown, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the lemon zest and juice, and swirl to combine.

Heat the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the squash and 1/2 tsp. salt; toss well to coat.

Cover the pan with the lid ajar by about 1 inch. Turn the heat down to medium low and cook, gently stirring occasionally, until the squash begins to brown, 5 to 6 minutes. As the mixture cooks, you should hear a gentle sizzle.

Turn the heat down to low, add the onions and raisins and cook, stirring occasionally and then gently pushing the vegetables back into a single layer so that most have direct contact with the pan, until the vegetables are tender and browned, 12 to 15 minutes more.

Add the spinach and lemon butter and toss gently until the spinach is wilted, about 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cheese and pine nuts. Season to taste with salt. Serve right away or let sit off the heat, partially covered, until ready to serve, and then reheat gently over medium-low heat.

Sautéed Shrimp with Red Pepper, Carrot & Napa Slaw

• 3 Tbs. seasoned rice vinegar
• 5 tsp. granulated sugar
• 4 tsp. fish sauce
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 small head Napa cabbage (about 1-1/2 lb.), halved, cored, and sliced crosswise very thinly
• 2 medium carrots, peeled and grated
• 1 large red bell pepper, seeded and very thinly sliced
• 4 scallions (white and green parts), trimmed and thinly sliced on the diagonal
• 1/3 cup chopped lightly salted peanuts
• 2 Tbs. toasted sesame oil
• 2 lb. large or jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined

Tip:

Seasoned rice vinegar is rice vinegar with added sweeteners and salt. Don’t confuse it with plain rice vinegar or flavored varieties of seasoned rice vinegar. Look for a bottle that's labeled "original," "natural," or "plain seasoned." 

In a small saucepan, combine the vinegar, sugar, fish sauce, and 1/8 tsp. salt; stir over low heat until the sugar dissolves. Set aside to cool slightly. In a large bowl, combine the cabbage, carrots, bell pepper, and scallions; toss well. Pour the vinegar mixture over the cabbage and mix well to combine. Toss in the peanuts. Let sit, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes.

In a large nonstick skillet, heat 1 Tbs. of the sesame oil over medium-high heat. Toss the shrimp with 1/2 tsp. salt and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Put half the shrimp in the skillet and sauté until opaque throughout, about 3 minutes. Transfer the cooked shrimp to a clean bowl. Repeat with the remaining 1 Tbs. oil and the other half of the shrimp. Toss the shrimp into the slaw and serve.

Broccoflower and Cremini Mushrooms with Garlic and Rosemary

I love the lime-green color and sweet, nutty flavor of Broccoflower (aka green cauliflower), but you can also use white cauliflower in this earthy and fragrant side dish. For the best browning, cut the florets so that they have a flat side.

• 1 Tbs. sherry vinegar
• 1 Tbs. pure maple syrup
• 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice; more to taste
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium Broccoflower (or cauliflower), cut into 1- to 2-inch florets (about 5 cups)
• 10 oz. cremini mushrooms, trimmed and halved if small, quartered if large (about 3 cups)
• 10 large cloves garlic, peeled and halved lengthwise
• 3 4-inch rosemary sprigs
• Kosher salt
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter

Combine the vinegar, maple syrup, and lemon juice in a small bowl. Set aside.

In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the Broccoflower, mushrooms, garlic, rosemary, and 1 tsp. salt; toss well to coat.

Cover the pan with the lid ajar by about 1 inch. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the florets start to brown, 8 to 10 minutes. As the mixture cooks, you should hear a gentle sizzle.

Uncover, turn the heat down to low, and cook, stirring occasionally and then pushing the vegetables back into a single layer so that most have direct contact with the pan, until the vegetables are tender and well browned, 8 to 10 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and immediately stir in the vinegar mixture and the butter. Stir gently until the butter has melted. Discard the rosemary sprigs and season to taste with more lemon juice and salt. Serve right away or let sit off the heat, partially covered, until ready to serve, and then reheat gently over medium-low heat.

Sautéed Shrimp and Hazelnut Romesco

Nyora peppers are authentic to making true Catalan romesco sauce. If they’re not avail­able, substitute additional large red peppers such as dried ancho chiles. Use spot prawns instead of extra-large shrimp when available at your local fish market.

• 8 dried Nyora or Ancho chiles
• 2 large red bell peppers
• 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil plus 2 Tbs.
• 1/2 cup raw hazelnuts
• 2 Tbs. fine breadcrumbs
• 2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
• 1 medium tomato, peeled and seeded
• 2 Tbs. sherry vinegar
• Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 16 extra-large shrimp, shelled, deveined, and rinsed
• 1/4 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped, for garnish

Snap the stems from the chiles. Shake out and discard the seeds. Put the chiles in a heatproof bowl and cover with 2 cups boiling water. Set a small plate on top to keep the peppers submerged and let sit until softened, about 20 minutes. Discard the soaking liquid. Set the peppers aside.


Roast the red bell peppers: On the stovetop, hold the peppers with tongs over an open burner, turning them until they’re blackened uniformly, about 3 to 5 minutes. (Alternatively, put the peppers on a baking sheet and roast in the oven at 450°F until the skins become brown and loosen, about 30 minutes.) Transfer to a bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap for 15 minutes, allowing them to steam and cool slightly. Peel the skins from the peppers, remove the seeds, and set the peppers aside.


Heat 2 Tbs. of the olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat, then add the hazelnuts and cook, shaking the pan a few times, until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Drain the hazelnuts and let cool slightly. Remove as much paper coating on the nuts as possible. Discard the oil.


Make the romesco sauce: Combine the chiles, roasted red bell peppers, hazelnuts, breadcrumbs, garlic, tomatoes, sherry vinegar, and 1/2 cup olive oil in the bowl of a food processor. Season generously with salt and pepper and pulse until completely puréed. Transfer to a small plastic container, cover, and refrigerate until needed. The romesco can be made a day ahead and kept covered in the refrigerator.


Heat the remaining 1/4 cup olive oil in a large straight-sided skillet over high heat. Add the shrimp, season with salt and pepper, and cook until the shrimp turn pink and become firm, about 1 to 2 minutes per side.


Warm the cold romesco sauce. Transfer the shrimp to a serving platter and serve the romesco sauce on the side. Garnish with the chopped parsley and serve immediately.

Harvest Bread Stuffing

The secret to achieving the right hearty (but not heavy) texture for this stuffing is to use good-quality whole-grain bread. The stuffing is cooked outside the turkey so vegetarians can enjoy it, too.

• 1-1/2 lb. country-style (dense) whole-grain bread, cut into 3/4-inch cubes (about 10 cups)
• 5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more for the baking dish
• 3 oz. (6 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 1 lb. yellow onions, chopped (2-3/4 cups)
• 3/4 lb. celery, chopped (2-1/4 cups)
• 1 medium leek (white part only), thinly sliced
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 lb. tart apples (such as Granny Smith, Pink Lady, or Fuji), peeled, cored, and cut into medium dice (2-1/2 cups)
• 2 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 8 oz. cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced
• 5-1/2 oz. shelled walnuts, chopped (1-1/2 cups)
• 4 oz. dried tart cherries, chopped (3/4 cup)
• 4 oz. pitted prunes, chopped (3/4 cup)
• 3/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 3 Tbs. chopped fresh sage
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh marjoram
• 2 to 3 cups homemade or store-bought vegetable broth
• 2 large eggs, lightly beaten

Put the bread on a rack and dry on the counter overnight. Alternatively, dry the bread on a baking sheet in a 275°F oven, stirring occasionally, until crisp, 15 to 45 minutes.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Put the bread in a very large mixing bowl.

Heat 1/4 cup of the olive oil and 1/4 cup of the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions, celery, leek, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Cook, stirring often, until beginning to color, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the apples, reduce the heat to medium low, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and lightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes more. Add the vegetables and fruit to the bread.

Heat the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil in the skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the mushrooms and a big pinch of salt. Cook, stirring often, until golden-brown, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the mushrooms to the bread mixture, along with the walnuts, cherries, prunes, and all of the herbs. With your hands, gently but thoroughly toss.

Pour 1-1/2 cups of the vegetable broth over the mixture and thoroughly mix again. If the liquid is immediately absorbed, add another 1/2 to 1 cup broth. If a little liquid pools at the bottom of the bowl, you’ve added enough. Continue tossing occasionally until the liquid is fully absorbed. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the eggs.

Transfer the stuffing to a large (roughly 11x13-inch) oiled baking dish. Bake until hot throughout, 40 minutes if starting at room temperature or 50 minutes if refrigerated. Dot the top of the stuffing with the remaining 2 Tbs. butter and bake until the top is crisp, 5 to 10 minutes more.

Corn, Bacon, and Red Pepper Sauté

In this quick side dish, a little bit of salty bacon provides the ideal counterpoint to sweet bell peppers and corn. Serve with grilled chicken or sautéed scallops or shirmp.

• 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 slice thick-cut bacon, chopped
• 2 cups fresh corn kernels (from 3 to 4 medium ears)
• 1/2 cup small-diced red bell pepper
• Kosher salt
• 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh parsley 

Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the bacon and cook, stirring often, until browned, about 2 minutes. Add the corn, bell pepper, and 1/4 tsp. salt and cook, stirring often, until heated through, 2 minutes. Stir in the parsley and serve.

Brussels Sprouts and Leeks with Lime-Ginger Butter

Lime and ginger brighten the deeply nutty character of well-browned Brussels sprouts and silky leeks.

• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 Tbs. minced peeled fresh ginger
• 1 medium lime, finely grated to yield 1 tsp. zest and squeezed to yield 1 Tbs. juice
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1-1/4 lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed, and quartered lengthwise if large, halved if small
• Kosher salt
• 3 medium leeks, white and light-green parts only, cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds, rings separated and washed well but not dried

Melt the butter in a small skillet or saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, swirling occasionally, until the milk solids turn light brown, about 5 minutes. Add the ginger and stir for a few seconds. Remove the pan from the heat, add the lime zest and juice, and swirl to combine.

Heat the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the Brussels sprouts and 1 tsp. salt; toss well to coat with oil.

Cover the pan with the lid ajar by about 1 inch. Turn the heat down to medium low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sprouts start to brown, 8 to 12 minutes. As the mixture cooks, you should hear a gentle sizzle.

Uncover, turn the heat down to low, add the leeks (with any water still clinging to them) and cook, stirring occasionally and then pushing the vegetables back into a single layer so that most have direct contact with the pan, until the leeks are limp and the sprouts are well browned, about 15 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat. Pour the butter mixture over the sprouts and leeks and stir, scraping the bottom of the pan and tossing well to coat. Season to taste with salt. Serve right away or let sit off the heat, partially covered, until ready to serve, and then reheat gently over medium-low heat.

Baby Carrot Salad

Orange-blossom water is lovely staple of Moroccan cooking, but you only need a little to bring out the carrots' brightness in this salad.

• 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 3 Tbs. mild honey, preferably organic
• 1/2 cup slivered almonds, toasted
• 1-1/2 Tbs. apple-cider vinegar
• 1/2 tsp. orange-blossom water, more to taste
• 2-1/2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
• 1 fresh red Thai other small chile, halved, seeds and ribs removed, and thinly sliced
• 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt
• 25 (4- to 5-inch long) young carrots (orange or a combination of red, purple, white and yellow), peeled and trimmed
• 1/2 cup plain yogurt (whole or low-fat)
• 2-1/2 oz. mâche (about 6 loosely packed cups)

Melt the butter in a 10- to 12-inch heavy frying pan over medium heat and cook until the butter turns brown and has a nutty fragrance; be careful not to burn it. Add the honey and swirl pan to incorporate, and then add the almonds. When the mixture is bubbling, add the vinegar (the mixture will sizzle and may splatter a bit), and orange-blossom water. Bring to a boil and continue to boil for 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, add the chile and lemon juice, and then whisk in the oil until blended. Cool to room temperature and season to taste with salt.

Fill a 4-quart pot two-thirds full with water, add 1 tsp. salt, and bring to a boil. Add the carrots and simmer until just tender when pierced with a small sharp knife, about 8 minutes. Drain and run cold water over the carrots to cool slightly (they should still be warm). Pat them dry and halve each lengthwise. Transfer to a medium bowl and toss with 1/3 cup of dressing. Season to taste with salt.

Divide the carrots among salad plates. Top each with some of the mâche, and drizzle with the yogurt and the remaining dressing.

Pan-Roasted Okra, Corn, and Tomatoes

Charring okra and corn in a cast-iron skillet brings high-summer cookout spirit to the classic Lowcountry vegetable trinity. The resulting caramelized, sweet vegetable flavor is the perfect complement to the acidity of fresh tomatoes that have been gently stewed with some onion, garlic, and bacon. You can turn this into a vegetarian dish in a snap by substituting a healthy pinch of smoked sweet paprika for the bacon, adding it to the pan along with the onion and garlic. Since you’ll lose the fat rendered by the bacon, you should add up to a tablespoon more vegetable oil to make sure the onions and garlic don’t brown.

• 3 Tbs. vegetable oil, plus more for brushing
• 8 oz. fresh okra, halved lengthwise
• Kosher salt
• 1-1/2 cups corn kernels (from 2 large ears)
• 2 lb. fresh tomatoes
• 2 oz. slab bacon, cut into large dice
• 1 medium white onion, chopped (3/4 cup)
• 1 large garlic clove, mashed to a paste
• 1 to 2 tsp. vinegar, either red wine, white wine, or distilled white (optional)
• Freshly ground black pepper

Heat a large cast-iron skillet over high heat until very hot and brush lightly with vegetable oil. In a bowl, toss the okra with 1 Tbs. of the oil and season with 1/4 tsp. salt. Cook the okra in the pan in two batches, turning once, until charred and tender, 3 to 4 minutes per batch depending on the size and freshness of your okra. Reserve in a bowl so you can reuse the cast-iron skillet.

Add 1 Tbs. of the oil to the corn and season with 1/4 tsp. of the salt. Add the corn to the skillet and cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly charred in spots, about 3 minutes. Reserve the corn in a bowl, separate from the okra.

Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil and fill a bowl with ice water. Score the tomato bottoms with an X. Add the tomatoes to the boiling water and blanch for 10 seconds to loosen their skins. Transfer the tomatoes to the ice water to cool. Core and peel the tomatoes, and halve them crosswise. Working over a sieve set in a bowl, tease out the seeds with your fingers. Press on the seeds to extract the juice, then discard them. Chop the tomatoes and reserve them in the bowl of their juice.

Pour the remaining tablespoon oil into the skillet over medium-high heat, and when it shimmers, add the bacon. Sauté the bacon until it just begins to brown, about 4 minutes, then add the onion and 1/2 tsp. salt. Stir continuously for about 2 minutes, allowing the onion to release some moisture, but not letting it brown. Add the garlic and cook for about a minute to let its flavor bloom (do not brown the garlic). Then add the tomatoes, and stir to combine. Cover the pot, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for about 4 minutes until the tomatoes have mostly collapsed.

Add the corn, stir to combine, and cook for 3 more minutes. Add the okra, stir, and cook just until the okra is heated through, about 2 minutes. Season to taste with the vinegar (which you may or may not need, depending upon the acidity of the tomatoes), salt, and black pepper; serve.