Vegetable Curry and Black Rice

This is an American adaptation of the different spice blends of curry in India. You can jazz it up with black rice.

For the curry spice blend

• 2 Tbs. ground turmeric
• 1 stick cinnamon or 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1 tsp. cardamom seed
• 1/4 tsp. whole cloves
• 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
• 1/2 tsp. fennel seed
• 1/4 tsp. coriander seed
• 1/4 tsp. fenugreek
• 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

For the rice

• 1 cup black rice or basmati rice
• 2 cups water
• 1 tsp. salt, plus more for seasoning
• 2 Tbs. brown butter, divided
• 1 tsp. saffron threads
• 1/4 cup chopped pistachios
• 1 small onion, cut into small dice
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tsp. minced fresh ginger
• 2 tsp. Curry Spice Blend
• 1-1/2 cups chicken stock or vegetable stock
• 1 tsp. sugar
• 1 tsp. molasses
• 2 tsp. freshly squeezed lime juice, plus lime wedges for serving
• 1 large russet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
• 3 carrots, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 rutabaga or turnip (about 10 ounces), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1/2 head cauliflower or broccoli, cut into florets
• 1/2 cup coconut milk
• 1/4 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
• 4 sprigs fresh cilantro

Tip:

To make brown butter, set a heatproof container in an ice bath. Put 1/2 cup butter, cut into small chunks, in a small saucepan over low heat. The butter will melt, foam and start to turn brown and smell nutty in about 8 to 10 minutes. As soon as it hits this fragrance and color, remove the pan from the heat and pour into the container in the ice bath to stop the cooking. Extra brown butter will keep for several days in the fridge.

For the spice blend

Grind all the ingredients in a spice grinder and store, covered, in a cool, dark place. The curry will keep for up to a year, but it loses flavor over time. You can use a Madras curry blend, but it won’t be as dramatic.

For the rice

In a small saucepan, add the rice, the 2 cups water, and a pinch of salt. Cover and bring to a simmer. Decrease the heat to low, and cook, covered, for 15 minutes. When done, stir in 1 Tbs. of the brown butter, the saffron, and the pistachios. Set aside.

In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add the remaining 1 Tbs. brown butter and the onion. Sauté or “sweat” for 2 to 3 minutes, then add the garlic, ginger, the 1 tsp. salt, and the 2 tsp. curry blend. Stir for 1 minute to release the oils in the spices. Add the stock, sugar, molasses, and lime juice and simmer for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the potato, carrots, and rutabaga in a pot of cold water with a pinch of salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to a simmer, cook for 5 minutes, and add the cauliflower. Cook until the vegetables are easily pierced with a knife, another 5 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Add the coconut milk to the curry and then all of the vegetables. Simmer for another few minutes.

To serve, place 1 Tbs. of yogurt in the bottom of each of 4 serving bowls. Spoon some of the rice into the bowl and then arrange vegetables around and on the rice and add some of the curry sauce around the bowl. Garnish with the cilantro leaves and stems and lime wedges. Serve immediately.

Shrimp Fried Rice (Chau Fan)

Unless you’re shopping in a Chinatown liquor store, it’s hard to find a good-quality white rice wine. Most supermarkets and even Chinese food markets offer only “cooking wines,” and these tend to be of poor quality. If that’s all you can find, use gin instead.

• 2 Tbs. soy sauce
• 2 Tbs. Chinese white rice wine or gin
• 1 Tbs. oyster sauce
• 2 tsp. granulated sugar
• 2 tsp. toasted sesame oil
• 3/4 tsp. table salt; more to taste
• White pepper, freshly ground if possible
• 3 large eggs
• 3 Tbs. peanut oil
• 1-1/2 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
• 1-1/2 Tbs. minced garlic (3 to 4 cloves)
• 1/2 lb. shrimp, shelled, deveined, and cut into 1/4-inch pieces
• 3 cups cooked extra-long-grain white rice, at room temperature (from 1 cup raw rice)
• 3 scallions, trimmed, white and green parts finely sliced (to yield 1/2 cup)

Tip:

If possible, use leftover rice and bring it to room temperature. If using freshly made rice, let it cool first.

In a small bowl, mix the soy sauce, rice wine or gin, oyster sauce, sugar, sesame oil, 1/2 tsp. salt, and a pinch of white pepper. In another small bowl, beat the eggs with 1/4 tsp. salt and a pinch of white pepper. Heat a 12-inch skillet or large wok over high heat for 45 seconds. Swirl 1 Tbs. of the peanut oil in the pan to coat the bottom. Add the eggs and scramble them gently with a spatula as they cook until they’re still a little soft and loose. Remove from the heat and cut the egg into small pieces with the spatula; it will finish cooking as you do this. Transfer to a bowl.

Wipe the pan and spatula clean with paper towels. Heat the pan over high heat for 45 seconds. Pour in the remaining 2 Tbs. peanut oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the ginger and garlic. Stir constantly with the spatula until the garlic is light brown, about 10 seconds. Immediately add the shrimp; stir constantly until it’s opaque, about 1 minute. Add the cooked rice. Cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to low. Stir the soy sauce mixture and then drizzle it over the rice. Stir well to completely coat the rice and mix the ingredients. Add the scrambled egg and mix well. Add the scallions and mix well. Taste and add salt if necessary. Transfer the rice to a bowl and serve.

Arroz Rojo de Chile Ancho (Ancho Chile Red Rice)

This earthy, brick-red rice is made by frying the uncooked rice with a purée of ancho chiles. The addition of milk tones down some of the chile-induced heat.

• 4 medium to large dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
• 4 cloves garlic, chopped
• 4-1/2 tsp. unsalted butter
• 1/3 cup blanched, slivered almonds
• 3 Tbs. olive oil
• 1-1/2 cups long-grain rice
• 1/3 cup finely chopped onion
• 1-3/4 cups homemade or low-salt chicken broth
• 2/3 cup milk
• 1-1/4 tsp. kosher salt
• 1 tsp. dried oregano
• 1 tsp. dried thyme
• 1/2 cup sour cream (optional)
• 1 avocado, peeled and cut into large dice or slices (optional)

Put the chiles in a small saucepan. Cover with water, bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat, cover it, and let the chiles soak for 10 to 15 minutes; drain. Put the chiles in a blender, add the garlic and 1/3 cup water, and blend for at least 1 min., starting at low speed and gradually turning to high speed, to make a purée; set aside.

Melt 1-1/2 tsp. of the butter in a small skillet over medium to medium-low heat, add the almonds and cook, stirring often, until they are golden brown but not burned. Pour onto a plate and set aside.

Heat the olive oil and the remaining butter in a large pot or Dutch oven (with a good lid) over medium heat, add the rice and onions, and sauté, stirring frequently, for 5 to 6 minutes. The rice and onions should be starting to turn golden. Turn the heat to between medium and medium high, stir in the chile purée, and continue cooking, stirring every 30 seconds, until almost all the moisture has evaporated and the rice no longer sticks together, 7 to 10 minutes. Add the broth, milk, salt, oregano, and thyme, stirring to mix well. Bring the liquid to a boil, cover the pot, turn the heat to very low, and simmer for 20 minutes. Turn off the heat, stir in the toasted almonds, cover the pot, and let the rice steam, off the heat, for about 15 minutes. Serve with a dollop of the sour cream and the avocado.

Lemon Rice Salad

A fresh lemon-herb dressing pairs well with the nutty flavor of basmati rice. Cool and gently fluff the basmati before dressing to ensure a light salad.

• 1/4 cup minced shallots or scallions (white and green parts)
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 1 cup basmati or jasmine rice, well rinsed
• 2 cups rich vegetable or chicken stock
• 1 tsp. grated lemon zest
• 2-1/2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
• 1/3 cup roughly chopped cilantro, basil, mint, or a mix
• 1 tsp. finely minced garlic
• 1/2 cup finely diced red onion, rinsed in cold water
• 1/2 cup diced red bell pepper
• 1/3 cup lightly toasted pine nuts, pepitas, or chopped cashews

In a deep saucepan over moderate heat, sauté the shallots in 1 Tbs. of the olive oil until soft but not brown. Add the rice and continue to sauté for 2 to 3 minutes longer, stirring regularly. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover, and continue to cook until all the liquid is absorbed, 14 to 16 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand, partially covered, for 5 minutes. Gently fluff the rice with a fork and pour into a large bowl to cool completely.

Add the lemon zest, juice, herbs, garlic, onion, bell pepper, nuts, and remaining 1 Tbs. of olive oil to the rice and gently stir to combine.

Mushroom-Asparagus Risotto

Baldo rice is a great pick for this simple springtime risotto because it releases enough starch as it cooks to warrant only frequent—not constant—stirring, making this less labor intensive than most risottos.

• 7 cups lower-salt chicken or vegetable broth
• Kosher salt
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1-1/4 cups minced shallots
• 2 tsp. minced garlic
• 7 oz. white, cremini, oyster, or portobello mushrooms, stemmed, cleaned, and coarsely chopped (2 cups)
• 12-1/4 oz. (1-3/4 cups) Turkish baldo rice
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 6 oz. medium asparagus spears (about 10), trimmed and cut on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces (1 cup)
• 1 oz. Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated (1 cup using a rasp grater)
• Freshly ground black pepper

Put the broth in a 3-quart saucepan, add a pinch of salt, and bring to a boil over high heat; lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Heat the oil in a wide, heavy-duty 5- to 6-quart pot over medium-high heat. Add the shallots, lower the heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the mushrooms, raise the heat to high, and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 2 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add the rice, and cook, stirring often, until the rice is lightly toasted, about 3 minutes.

Add the wine and cook, stirring, until most of it is absorbed, about 30 seconds.

Stir about 1-1/2 cups of the simmering broth into the rice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until most of the broth is absorbed, about 1 minute. Add another 1-1/2 cups broth and cook, stirring frequently, until most of it is absorbed, about 3 minutes. Repeat the process once or twice more, tasting the rice every few minutes after the third broth addition until it’s just shy of firm to the bite but without a crunchy center, about 12 minutes after the first addition of broth.

Stir in the asparagus and 1 cup broth. Cover, lower the heat to the low, and cook until the asparagus is crisp-tender and the rice is tender but with some resistance, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and fold in the cheese. Cover and let stand for 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and serve right away, sprinkled with black pepper.

Arroz Verde (Green Rice)

Rich and refined, arroz verde is one of the most popular dishes I present to cooking classes.

• 1/2 cup tightly packed fresh cilantro sprigs (about 1/2 oz.)
• 1 cup tightly packed fresh stemmed spinach leaves (about 1-1/2 oz.)
• 1-1/4 cups homemade or low-salt chicken broth
• 1-1/4 cups milk
• 1 tsp. kosher salt
• 1 Tbs. olive oil
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1-1/2 cups long-grain rice
• 1/4 cup finely minced onion
• 1 clove garlic, minced

Put the cilantro, spinach, and broth in a blender and blend until the vegetables are puréed. Add the milk and salt and blend a bit more until well combined.

In a medium (3-qt.) heavy-based saucepan (with a good lid) over medium heat, heat the olive oil and butter. When the butter is melted, add the rice and sauté, stirring about every 30 seconds, until it just begins to brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the onion and garlic and cook 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add the contents of the blender, stir well, turn the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Cover the pan, turn the heat to very low, and cook for 20 minutes. Stir the rice carefully to avoid crushing it, cover, and cook another 5 minutes.

Take the pan off the heat and let the rice steam in the covered pot for 10 minutes. Serve hot.

Couscous Salad with Tomatoes and Hot Green Peppers

Couscous is a fine pellet made from semolina flour, each golden grain a bit larger than the head of a pin. Some chefs call it “Moroccan pasta” because it is made with the same durum wheat used to make pasta. Here, cooked couscous is combined with roasted green peppers, tomatoes, and cucumbers. The resulting salad is similar to Middle Eastern tabouleh and perfect for a summer picnic.

• 1-1/2 cups couscous
• 1/2 cup water
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 2 green bell peppers, roasted and diced 
• 2 cups coarsely chopped cherry tomatoes or 2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced
• 1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded, and diced
• 1 hot green or red chili pepper (jalapeño or serrano), minced 
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro or coriander leaves
• 5 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil
• 2 to 4 Tbs. lemon juice
• 1 tsp. ground cumin
• 1/4 tsp. sweet paprika
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• Freshly ground black pepper

Wash the couscous in cold water and drain immediately. Lift and rake the grains with your fingertips to separate them. Let rest 10 minutes.

Heat water in the bottom of a soup pot fitted with a steamer. The steamer should fit snugly into the pot, and the bottom of the steamer should not touch the water. Line the steamer with 3 layers of cheesecloth that cover both the bottom and the sides of the steamer and go up over the top. Add the couscous to the steamer and steam for 20 minutes, fluffing the grains halfway through the cooking.

Remove the couscous from the steamer and put it into a baking pan. Combine the water and salt. Sprinkle the couscous with the salt water. Lift and rake the grains with your fingertips to separate them. Let rest 10 minutes.

Place the steamer back in the soup pot and return the couscous to the cheesecloth-lined steamer. Steam slowly for 15 minutes. Remove the steamer and the couscous. Let the couscous cool completely.

The couscous can be prepared to this point up to 2 days in advance.

Place the couscous in a bowl and add the peppers, tomatoes, cucumber, chili pepper, parsley, and cilantro.

In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, cumin, paprika, and garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Toss with the couscous and vegetables. Season with salt and pepper.

Mushroom-Asparagus Risotto

Baldo rice is a great pick for this simple springtime risotto because it releases enough starch as it cooks to warrant only frequent—not constant—stirring, making this less labor intensive than most risottos.

• 7 cups lower-salt chicken or vegetable broth
• Kosher salt
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1-1/4 cups minced shallots
• 2 tsp. minced garlic
• 7 oz. white, cremini, oyster, or portobello mushrooms, stemmed, cleaned, and coarsely chopped (2 cups)
• 12-1/4 oz. (1-3/4 cups) Turkish baldo rice
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 6 oz. medium asparagus spears (about 10), trimmed and cut on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces (1 cup)
• 1 oz. Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated (1 cup using a rasp grater)
• Freshly ground black pepper

Put the broth in a 3-quart saucepan, add a pinch of salt, and bring to a boil over high heat; lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Heat the oil in a wide, heavy-duty 5- to 6-quart pot over medium-high heat. Add the shallots, lower the heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the mushrooms, raise the heat to high, and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 2 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add the rice, and cook, stirring often, until the rice is lightly toasted, about 3 minutes.

Add the wine and cook, stirring, until most of it is absorbed, about 30 seconds.

Stir about 1-1/2 cups of the simmering broth into the rice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until most of the broth is absorbed, about 1 minute. Add another 1-1/2 cups broth and cook, stirring frequently, until most of it is absorbed, about 3 minutes. Repeat the process once or twice more, tasting the rice every few minutes after the third broth addition until it’s just shy of firm to the bite but without a crunchy center, about 12 minutes after the first addition of broth.

Stir in the asparagus and 1 cup broth. Cover, lower the heat to the low, and cook until the asparagus is crisp-tender and the rice is tender but with some resistance, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and fold in the cheese. Cover and let stand for 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and serve right away, sprinkled with black pepper.

Creole-Style Shrimp Jambalaya

A creole-style (red) jambalaya always includes tomatoes. I like using tomato paste instead of canned or fresh tomatoes because it adds deeper flavor and gives the finished dish a rich hue. The shrimp are cooked for a long time, which may seem odd, but this method yields a flavorful jambalaya with tender—never mushy—shrimp. If you can find head-on shrimp, this is the place to use them; just remove and discard the heads at the point in the recipe where you peel and devein the shrimp.

• 6 scallions, thinly sliced (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
• 3 medium stalks celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
• 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
• 2 lb. large (31 to 35 per lb.) shrimp, preferably wild-caught
• 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 1/4 lb. ham, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 3 Tbs. tomato paste
• 1 dried bay leaf
• 1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• 1/4 tsp. cayenne
• 1/8 tsp. chili powder
• 1/8 tsp. ground allspice
• Pinch of ground cloves
• Kosher salt
• 2 cups long-grain white rice
• 1 tsp. sweet paprika
• Hot sauce, preferably Crystal (optional)

In a 4-quart heavy-duty saucepan, combine the scallion trimmings, celery trimmings, and onion trimmings with 5-1/2 cups of water; bring to a boil over high heat. Add the shrimp, let the water return to a boil, and cook until pink and cooked through, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit for 3 minutes. Strain through a sieve set over a large glass measuring cup, reserving the stock. You will need 4-1/2 cups of stock, so add water if necessary. When cool enough to handle, peel and devein the shrimp. Discard the shells and trimmings.

Melt the butter in a 5- to 6-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven (or other heavy-duty pot) over medium-high heat. Add the celery, onion, and bell pepper and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 7 minutes. Add the ham and the reserved shrimp and cook, stirring often, until any excess moisture evaporates and the ham and vegetables begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until a shade darker, about 3 minutes. Stir in the bay leaf, thyme, cayenne, chili powder, allspice, cloves, and 1-1/2 tsp. salt. Stir in the rice. Add the reserved stock and bring to a boil. Cover, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, undisturbed, just until the rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Check the rice for doneness in several places.

Remove the pot from the heat. Sprinkle the paprika over the jambalaya and, using a fork, gently fluff the scallions and paprika into the jambalaya. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes to let the flavors meld. Serve with hot sauce, if you like.

Cheesy Rice with Garlic and Thyme

Imagine risotto crossed with macaroni and cheese, and that’s what you get in this comforting side dish. Dried porcini lend a savory edge without an overt mushroom flavor. Serve alongside a simple roast chicken, or seared veal or pork chops.

• 1/2 cup dried porcini mushrooms
• Kosher salt
• 1 cup carnaroli or Arborio rice
• 4 Tbs. unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
• 1 medium clove garlic, finely chopped
• 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme
• 3-1/2 oz. (1 cup) coarsely grated fontina
• 3/4oz. (1/2 cup) firmly packed, freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving
• Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving
• Freshly ground white pepper

Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil in a 3- to 4-quart saucepan over high heat.

Pulse the mushrooms in a spice grinder until they’re about the size of raw oatmeal flakes.Add the mushrooms, 1 Tbs. salt, and the rice to the boiling water. Reduce the heat to medium to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is al dente, 10 to 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in an 8-inch sauté pan over medium-high heat, swirling continuously until it turns a deep golden-brown (be careful not to burn it). Immediately remove the pan from the heat and stir in the garlic and thyme. Set aside.

Set a large, fine strainer over a bowl and strain the cooked rice and mushrooms, catching the broth in the bowl. Return the rice mixture to the pan over low heat. Stir in the cheeses and the butter mixture and moisten the rice with 1/4 to 1/2 cup of the broth. Season to taste with salt and pepper and cook another 2 to 3 minutes. Serve with more Parmigiano-Reggiano on top.

Cheesy Rice with Garlic and Thyme

Imagine risotto crossed with macaroni and cheese, and that’s what you get in this comforting side dish. Dried porcini lend a savory edge without an overt mushroom flavor. Serve alongside a simple roast chicken, or seared veal or pork chops.

• 1/2 cup dried porcini mushrooms
• Kosher salt
• 1 cup carnaroli or Arborio rice
• 4 Tbs. unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
• 1 medium clove garlic, finely chopped
• 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme
• 3-1/2 oz. (1 cup) coarsely grated fontina
• 3/4oz. (1/2 cup) firmly packed, freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving
• Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving
• Freshly ground white pepper

Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil in a 3- to 4-quart saucepan over high heat.

Pulse the mushrooms in a spice grinder until they’re about the size of raw oatmeal flakes.Add the mushrooms, 1 Tbs. salt, and the rice to the boiling water. Reduce the heat to medium to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is al dente, 10 to 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in an 8-inch sauté pan over medium-high heat, swirling continuously until it turns a deep golden-brown (be careful not to burn it). Immediately remove the pan from the heat and stir in the garlic and thyme. Set aside.

Set a large, fine strainer over a bowl and strain the cooked rice and mushrooms, catching the broth in the bowl. Return the rice mixture to the pan over low heat. Stir in the cheeses and the butter mixture and moisten the rice with 1/4 to 1/2 cup of the broth. Season to taste with salt and pepper and cook another 2 to 3 minutes. Serve with more Parmigiano-Reggiano on top.

Southwestern Rice Pilaf

This dish makes a delicious accompaniment to steak or chicken fajitas.

• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium onion, medium diced (1-1/2 cups)
• 1 medium poblano, stemmed, seeded, and finely diced (1/2 cup)
• 4 large cloves garlic, minced (2 Tbs.)
• 1-1/2 tsp. chili powder
• 1 tsp. ground cumin
• 1-1/2 cups long-grain white rice
• 1 tsp. kosher salt; more as needed
• 2-1/2 cups low-salt chicken broth
• 1 14-oz. can diced tomatoes, drained well
• 1 lime
• 1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 jalapeño, stemmed, seeded, and minced

In a heavy-based 3-qt. saucepan with a tight lid, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, poblano, and garlic, and reduce the heat to medium low. Cook for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the chili powder and cumin and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is softened and the spices are very fragrant, about 3 minutes.

Add the rice and salt, and stir well to coat each grain with oil. Toast for a full 5 minutes, stirring regularly to keep the grains separated and to prevent them from sticking to the bottom of the pan (the rice may turn opaque before 5 minutes is up, but keep going). Reduce the heat to low if there are any signs of scorching.

Tip:

Fluff the rice by slipping the tines of a fork down into the rice alongside the edge of the pan. Gently lift and toss the rice toward the center of the pan. Continue this process as you work your way around the perimeter. Then add your finishing-touch ingredients and gently fold them in with the fork, using a similar gentle fluffing motion.

Add the chicken broth and tomatoes, stir once, and bring to a boil over medium heat.  Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 18 minutes. Remove from the heat and let the pilaf sit, still covered, for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, finely grate 1 Tbs. zest from the lime, and then cut the lime into wedges.

Once the pilaf has rested, remove the lid and fluff the rice with a fork. Using the fork, gently fold in the cilantro, jalapeño, and lime zest. Season to taste with salt. Serve with the lime wedges for spritzing over the rice.

Steamed Jasmine Rice

• 1 cup jasmine rice
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt (optional)

Wash the rice well by putting it in a bowl and covering it with cool water. Swish the rice around with your hand until the water gets cloudy. Drain and repeat until the water gets only slightly cloudy; usually it takes about three rinses.

Drain the rice, put it in a small (1-qt) metal bowl, and stir in 1 cup cold water and the salt, if using. Fit a rack or steaming trivet into a pot large enough to accommodate the bowl. Pour about an inch of water into the pot. Put the bowl of rice on the rack (it shouldn’t touch the water in the pot), cover the pot, and bring the water in the pot to a boil over high heat. As soon as the water in the pot begins to boil, set a timer for 25 minutes and reduce the heat to maintain a steady amount of steam. When the timer goes off, take the pot off the heat and use tongs or a hot pad to remove the hot bowl from the pot. Fluff the rice with a fork and serve.

Saffron Rice Pilaf with Red Pepper & Toasted Almonds

The flavors in this pilaf remind me a little of paella. It’s a great partner for salmon, shrimp, or mussels.

• 2-1/2 cups low-salt chicken broth or water
• Pinch saffron (about 20 threads)
• 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium onion, small diced (1-1/4 cups)
• 1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and small diced (about 1 cup)
• 1-1/2 cups long-grain white rice
• 1 tsp. kosher salt; more as needed
• Pinch ground cayenne
• 1/4 cup roughly chopped fresh Italian parsley
• 1 large clove garlic, minced (1-1/2 tsp.)
• 1/4 cup slivered almonds, toasted
• 1 Tbs. roughly chopped fresh oregano

On the stovetop or in the microwave, heat the broth until hot. Add the saffron, cover, and let sit for 15 to 20 min.

In a heavy-based 3-qt. saucepan with a tight lid, heat the oil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium low and add the diced onion and bell pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until soft but not browned, about 5 min. Add the rice, salt, and cayenne, and stir well to coat each grain with oil. Toast for a full 5 min., stirring regularly to keep the grains separated and to prevent them from sticking to the bottom of the pan (the rice may turn opaque before 5 min. is up, but keep going). Reduce the heat to low if there are any signs of scorching. Stir in 2 Tbs. of the parsley and the garlic.

Tip:

Fluff the pilaf by slipping the tines of a fork down into the rice alongside the edge of the pan. Gently lift and toss the rice toward the center of the pan. Continue this process as you work your way around the perimeter. Then add your finishing-touch ingredients and gently fold them in with the fork, using a similar gentle fluffing motion.

Add the saffron broth, stir once, and bring to a boil over medium heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 18 min. Remove from the heat, and let the pilaf sit, still covered, for 5 min.

Once the pilaf has rested, remove the lid and fluff the rice with a fork. Using the fork, gently fold in the almonds, the remaining 2 Tbs. parsley, and the oregano. Taste for seasoning and adjust as needed.

Rice Pilaf with Sage, Parmigiano & Prosciutto

I love to serve this with roast chicken, along with asparagus or fava beans.

• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 lb. very thinly sliced prosciutto (about 5 slices), cut crosswise into 1-inch-wide strips
• 4 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 3 Tbs. chopped fresh sage
• 4 large cloves garlic, minced (2 Tbs.)
• 3 large shallots, thinly sliced (1 scant cup)
• 1-1/2 cups long-grain white rice
• 1 tsp. kosher salt; more as needed
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 1-1/2 cups low-salt chicken broth
• 2 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano, coarsely grated on the large holes of a box grater (about 2/3 cup)

Tip:

Crisping the prosciutto in olive oil before sautéing the aromatics and toasting the rice infuses the oil and everything that subsequently cooks in it, adding more flavor.

In a 3-qt. heavy-based saucepan with a tight lid, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Cook half the prosciutto in the hot oil, stirring occasionally, until browned and crispy, 1 to 2 min. With tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer the prosciutto to a paper towel to drain. Repeat with the remaining prosciutto.

Add 2 Tbs. of the butter to the pan and reduce the heat to low. When the butter has melted, add 2 Tbs. of the sage and cook for a few seconds, and then add the garlic and shallots. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the shallots are soft but not browned, about 5 min. Add the rice and salt and stir well to coat each grain with oil. Toast for a full 5 min., stirring regularly to keep the grains separated and to prevent them from sticking to the bottom of the pan (the rice may turn opaque before 5 minutes is up, but keep going).

Tip:

Fluff the rice by slipping the tines of a fork down into the rice alongside the edge of the pan. Gently lift and toss the rice toward the center of the pan. Continue this process as you work your way around the perimeter. Then add your finishing-touch ingredients and gently fold them in with the fork, using a similar gentle fluffing motion.

Add the wine, stir well, and cook over medium heat until the wine is mostly reduced, about 3 min. Add the chicken broth, stir once, and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 18 min. Remove the pan from the heat and let sit, still covered, for 5 min.

Once the pilaf has rested, remove the lid and fluff the rice with a fork.  Cut the remaining 2 Tbs. butter into several pieces and, using the fork, gently fold it into the rice with the remaining 1 Tbs. sage, the Parmigiano, and the cooked prosciutto. Taste for seasoning and adjust as needed.

Parsnip Risotto with Pancetta and Sage

Sweet parsnips, salty pancetta, and aromatic sage—does winter food get any better?

• Kosher salt
• 1-1/2 lb. medium parsnips, peeled, cored, and cut into medium dice (2-1/2 cups)
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 3 oz. thinly sliced pancetta, cut into 1/2-inch-wide strips (about 1 cup)
• 3 Tbs. roughly chopped fresh sage
• 3 medium cloves garlic, roughly chopped
• 1 medium yellow onion, cut into small dice
• 2 cups arborio rice
• Pinch of crumbled saffron (optional)
• 6 cups lower-salt chicken broth
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 oz. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving

Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Add the parsnips and boil until firm-tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain and spread on a rimmed baking sheet to cool to room temperature.

Heat 2 Tbs. of the olive oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the parsnips, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Add the pancetta and cook until sizzling and crisp, about 2 minutes. Add the sage and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until the garlic is fragrant and the sage is starting to crisp, about 2 minutes more. Set aside.

Heat the remaining 2 Tbs. olive oil in an 11- to 12-inch straight-sided sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion, a small pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes.

Add the rice, 2 tsp. salt, and the saffron (if using), stirring well to coat. Add 2 cups of the broth and the wine; simmer, stirring, until the liquid is completely absorbed, 3 to 4 minutes. Continue adding the broth in 1 cup increments, stirring and adjusting the heat to maintain a brisk simmer and letting each addition be almost absorbed before adding the next. The risotto is done when the rice is nearly but not fully tender (al dente) and still a little soupy (this usually takes 14 to 16 minutes after the first addition of liquid). You may not use all the broth, but you should use at least 4 cups.

Fold the parsnip mixture into the risotto. Add the butter and Parmigiano and stir gently to incorporate. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve sprinkled with more grated Parmigiano.

Cajun-Style Chicken and Sausage Jambalaya

This is a traditional Cajun-style (brown) jambalaya, chock full of smoked meats with nary a tomato in sight. Although Louisiana-style ingredients are increasingly available these days, it may be difficult to find the sausages and tasso locally. Don’t forgo this recipe, though, because there are widely available substitutes (see the ingredient list below). Just don’t use breakfast or Italian sausage—their sage and fennel flavors have no place in jambalaya. The Creole seasoning is all-purpose, so both Cajun and Creole cooks use it.

• 1 2-1/2- to 3-lb. chicken, giblets removed
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped (about 2 cups), trimmings reserved
• 3 medium stalks celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
• 1 Tbs. canola oil
• 1/2 lb. fresh chaurice (or Mexican chorizo or other spicy fresh pork or beef sausage), casings removed
• 1/2 lb. andouille (or kielbasa or other smoked sausage), casings removed, halved lengthwise and sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick
• 1/4 lb. tasso (or ham), cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 1 tsp. creole seasoning, preferably Tony Chachere’s Original Creole Seasoning
• 3 cups long-grain white rice
• 3 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• 1 dried bay leaf
• 1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions
• Hot sauce, preferably Crystal (optional)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Pat the chicken dry and season it all over with salt and pepper. Put the chicken breast side down on a roasting rack in a medium (9x13-inch or similar) roasting pan or flameproof baking dish. Tuck the wing tips behind the neck.

Roast the chicken for 30 minutes. Flip and continue roasting until an instant-read thermometer inserted in a thigh registers 165°F to 170°F, about 45 minutes more.

Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and let rest until cool enough to handle, about 30 minutes.

Pull off all of the meat, discarding the skin and reserving the bones; shred the meat into bite-size pieces, cover, and refrigerate.

Put the chicken bones in a 5- to 6-quart pot with the onion and celery trimmings. Add 8 cups of water and bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Lower the heat and simmer until flavorful and reduced to about 6cups of liquid, 35 to 50 minutes. Strain the broth and measure it; you will need 6cups, so add water if necessary.

Heat the oil in a 7- to 8-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven (or other heavy-duty pot) over medium heat. Add the chaurice and use a wooden spatula to break it into small pieces. Raise the heat to medium high and add the andouille, tasso, onion, celery, bell pepper, and Creole seasoning. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are browned, 15 to 20 minutes.

Add the rice and cook, stirring often, until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the shredded chicken, reserved broth, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, and 3/4 tsp. salt; bring to a boil. Cover, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, undisturbed, just until the rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Check the rice for doneness in several places.

Remove the pot from the heat. Using a fork, gently fluff the scallions into the jambalaya. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes to let the flavors meld. Serve with hot sauce, if you like.

Couscous Salad with Tomatoes and Hot Green Peppers

Couscous is a fine pellet made from semolina flour, each golden grain a bit larger than the head of a pin. Some chefs call it “Moroccan pasta” because it is made with the same durum wheat used to make pasta. Here, cooked couscous is combined with roasted green peppers, tomatoes, and cucumbers. The resulting salad is similar to Middle Eastern tabouleh and perfect for a summer picnic.

• 1-1/2 cups couscous
• 1/2 cup water
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 2 green bell peppers, roasted and diced 
• 2 cups coarsely chopped cherry tomatoes or 2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced
• 1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded, and diced
• 1 hot green or red chili pepper (jalapeño or serrano), minced 
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro or coriander leaves
• 5 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil
• 2 to 4 Tbs. lemon juice
• 1 tsp. ground cumin
• 1/4 tsp. sweet paprika
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• Freshly ground black pepper

Wash the couscous in cold water and drain immediately. Lift and rake the grains with your fingertips to separate them. Let rest 10 minutes.

Heat water in the bottom of a soup pot fitted with a steamer. The steamer should fit snugly into the pot, and the bottom of the steamer should not touch the water. Line the steamer with 3 layers of cheesecloth that cover both the bottom and the sides of the steamer and go up over the top. Add the couscous to the steamer and steam for 20 minutes, fluffing the grains halfway through the cooking.

Remove the couscous from the steamer and put it into a baking pan. Combine the water and salt. Sprinkle the couscous with the salt water. Lift and rake the grains with your fingertips to separate them. Let rest 10 minutes.

Place the steamer back in the soup pot and return the couscous to the cheesecloth-lined steamer. Steam slowly for 15 minutes. Remove the steamer and the couscous. Let the couscous cool completely.

The couscous can be prepared to this point up to 2 days in advance.

Place the couscous in a bowl and add the peppers, tomatoes, cucumber, chili pepper, parsley, and cilantro.

In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, cumin, paprika, and garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Toss with the couscous and vegetables. Season with salt and pepper.

Paella

If you don't have a paella pan, use a 13-inch or larger skillet, or divide the ingredients between two medium skillets. Stainless-steel or anodized-aluminum skillets work best. Don't use cast iron or nonstick.

• 3-1/2 cups homemade or low-salt chicken broth; more as needed
• Pinch of saffron (8 to 10 threads)
• Salt to taste
• About 1/4 cup olive oil; more if needed
• 4 skinless chicken thighs, chopped in half and seasoned with salt and pepper
• 1 small head garlic (remove excess papery skins, trim the top, and make a shallow cut around its equator to speed cooking), plus 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into 1-inch wide strips
• 3 artichokes
• 3 oz. green beans (about 16), trimmed
• 1 small onion, grated on the largest holes of a box grater
• 1 ripe tomato, halved horizontally and grated on the largest holes of a box grater (discard the skin)
• 1-1/2 cups medium-grain rice
• 1 sprig fresh rosemary
• 2 lemons, cut in wedges for garnish

In a saucepan, bring the broth to a boil; reduce the heat to a simmer and cover. Put the saffron on a 3-inch-wide strip of aluminum foil, fold up the foil to make a square packet, and set the foil directly on the lid of the simmering broth for about 15 minutes. Unfold the packet, transfer the saffron to a mortar (or a small bowl), add a pinch of salt, and use the pestle (or the back of spoon) to crush the saffron. Add about 1/2 cup of the hot broth to the saffron and let the saffron steep for about 15 minutes. Add the saffron-infused liquid back to the broth. Taste; the broth should be well seasoned, so add more salt if necessary. Remove from the heat until ready to add to the rice.

Set a 14-inch paella pan over medium-high heat and add the olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the chicken and the head of garlic; sauté until the chicken is golden, 10 to 15 minutes. The oil may splatter, and you may need to turn down the heat. Transfer the partially cooked chicken to a platter. The head of garlic stays in the pan.

"Start by sautéing the chicken until golden. A head of garlic goes in the pan, too.

Reduce the heat to medium low. In the same pan, sauté the red pepper slices slowly until they're very limp, 20 to 25 minutes, adding more oil if necessary; they shouldn't brown too much. Meanwhile, prepare the artichokes. Cut off the upper two-thirds of the leaves and the stem. Pare away the remaining tough outer leaves. Scrape out the choke fibers and cut the hearts into quarters (or eighths, if large).

Sauté strips of red pepper until completely limp and tender.

When the pepper is done, transfer the pieces to a plate, cover with foil, and set aside. Slowly sauté the artichokes and green beans in the same pan, still on medium low, until the artichokes are golden and tender and the beans are soft and slightly wrinkled, 15 to 25 minutes. Meanwhile, when the pepper pieces are cool enough to handle, peel off and discard the skin. When the artichokes and green beans are done, push them to the perimeter of the pan where there's less heat (or transfer them to the platter with the chicken.)

Sauté the green beans and artichokes together.

If there's more than 1 Tbs. of oil in the pan, pour out the excess. Increase the heat to medium and sauté the grated onion and sliced garlic until the onion is soft (it's all right if it gets slightly brown), about 5 minutes. Add the grated tomato. Season well with salt and sauté until the water from the tomato has cooked out and the mixture, called a sofrito, has darkened to a burgundy color and is a very thick purée, 5 to 10 minutes. If you're not cooking the rice immediately, remove the pan from the heat.

Push the vegetables to the perimeter of the pan to make way for the tomato, onion, and garlic sofrito.

About half an hour before you're ready to eat, bring the broth back to a simmer and set the pan with the sofrito over your largest burner (or over two burners) on medium heat, noticing if the pan sits level. (If not, choose another burner or try to create a level surface.) When the sofrito is hot, add the rice, stirring until it's translucent, 1 to 2 minutes.

Add the rice to the pan, and sauté for a minute or two until translucent.

Spread out the rice (it should just blanket the bottom of the pan), distribute the green beans and artichokes evenly, and arrange the chicken in the pan. Increase the heat to medium high and pour in 3 cups of the simmering broth (reserving 1/2 cup). As the broth comes to a boil, lay the peppers in the pan, starburst-like, and push the head of garlic to the center. Cook until the rice begins to appear above the liquid, 6 to 8 minutes, rotating the pan over one and two burners as necessary to distribute the heat to all areas. Add the sprig of rosemary and reduce the heat to medium low. Continue to simmer, rotating the pan as necessary, until the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is al dente, another 8 to 10 minutes. To check for doneness, taste a grain just below the top layer of rice—there should be a very tiny white dot in the center. If the liquid is absorbed but the rice is not done, add a bit more hot broth or water to the pan and cook a few minutes more. Cover the pan with foil and cook gently for another 2 minutes, which will help to ensure that the top layer of rice is evenly cooked. With the foil still in place, increase the heat to medium high and, turning the pan, cook until the bottom layer of rice starts to caramelize, creating the socarrat, 1 to 2 minutes. You may hear the rice crackling, which is fine, but if it starts burning, remove the pan from the heat immediately. To check for socarrat, peel back the foil and use a spoon to feel for a slight crust on the bottom of the pan.

Ad simmering stock, then arrange the chicken and vegetables in the pan and cook the rice until al dente.

When the rice is done, cover with foil, turn up the heat, and use a spoon to check for a caramelized crust.

Remove the pan from the heat and let the paella rest, still covered, 5 to 10 minutes. Sit everyone down at a round or square table, if possible. Remove the foil, and invite people to eat directly from the pan, starting at the perimeter and working toward the center, squeezing lemon over their section if they like.

Risotto-Style Summer Heirloom Farro

Thankfully, farro, an old-world grain, made it to the new world so that we could enjoy this amazing dish. This dish resembles risotto, but, in deference to our American heritage, perhaps it should be called porridge. Semantics aside, it’s a great way to use summer squash.

• 4 Tbs. olive oil
• 1 large yellow onion, diced
• 8 fresh zucchini blossoms, optional
• 1 cup uncooked farro
• 4 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade
• 1 large zucchini, diced
• 1-1/2 cups fresh sweet corn kernels
• 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 lemon, sliced

Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes, or until softened but not browned. Add the zucchini blossoms, if using, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for about 1 minute. Remove the blossoms to a plate and keep warm. Add the farro. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes just to coat with the oil and mix with the onions.


Pour the stock into the skillet. Stir the farro and onions. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium. Simmer, stirring frequently, for 40 to 45 minutes, at which time the farro should be tender and the stock evaporated. Add more stock if needed during cooking to keep the farro moist.


Heat the remaining 2 Tbs. of oil in another large skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add the zucchini and corn kernels. Cook for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the vegetables brown.


Add the tomatoes. Cook for about 1 minute to warm through. Add the farro and toss to mix.


Add the butter and stir until melted. Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Spoon the farro onto each of 8 plates. Garnish each plate with a zucchini blossom.