Southern Roast Turkey and Gravy

Buttering and salting the turkey 1 to 2 days before roasting seasons the bird inside and out without the fuss of wet brining. Be sure to let the bird warm up at room temperature before roasting so it cooks up juicy and tender.

For the turkey

• 1 16-lb. fresh turkey, neck, tail, and giblets reserved for the gravy
• 5 oz. (10 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. paprika (hot or sweet)
• 2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh thyme
• 4 tsp. minced garlic
• 3/4 tsp. cayenne
• 1/4 tsp. celery seed

For the gravy

• 1 small yellow onion, quartered
• 2 medium stalks celery, halved crosswise
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 3 cups lower-salt chicken broth
• 2 cups dry white wine
• 2 bay leaves
• 2-1/4 oz. (1/2 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Butter and salt the turkey

Line a 12x16-inch heavy-duty roasting pan with 2 layers of paper towels. Blot the turkey dry inside and out.

In a small bowl, combine the butter with 2 tsp. salt and 1 tsp. pepper; stir in the paprika, thyme, garlic, cayenne, and celery seed. Set aside 1/4 cup of the butter mixture for making the gravy.

Slide your hand under the turkey’s skin to loosen it from the breast and thigh meat. Using your fingers, spread the butter directly on the breast and thigh meat, being careful not to tear the skin. Season the turkey inside and out with 1-1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper. Tuck the wings behind the neck and tie the legs together with kitchen twine.

Set the turkey breast side up in the prepared pan. Loosely cover with waxed paper or parchment and refrigerate for 1 to 2 days.

Make the broth for the gravy

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the turkey neck, tail, giblets (excluding the liver), onion, and celery with the oil; arrange in a single layer. Roast, stirring once, until well browned, about 40 minutes.

Transfer the roasted ingredients to a heavy-duty 5-quart pot. Pour 1 cup of the chicken broth onto the hot baking sheet and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom with a wooden spatula; transfer to the pot. Add the remaining broth and 1 quart water. Bring to a boil; lower the heat and simmer gently until reduced to 3 cups, about 1-1/2 hours. Strain through a medium-mesh sieve into a 2-quart measuring cup; discard the solids.

Roast the turkey

Uncover the turkey, discard the paper towels, and set the turkey on a V-rack in the roasting pan. Let sit for 1 hour at room temperature.

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Roast the turkey, basting occasionally after 1 hour and rotating the panhalfway through, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the
thickest part of the thigh registers 165°F, 2 to 2-1/2 hours. If the skingets too dark during roasting, tent with foil.

Tilt the turkey so the juice in the cavity runs into the roasting pan. Transfer the turkey to a platter or carving board. Remove the string, tent with foil, and let rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour before carving and serving.

Make the gravy

Pour the drippings from the turkey roasting pan into a fat separator and allow the fat to rise to the top. Transfer 1/4 cup of the fat to a 3- to 4-quart saucepan; discard the remaining fat and add the defatted drippings to the reserved broth in the measuring cup.

Add the wine and bay leaves to the roasting pan and boil over medium-high heat, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, until reduced to 1/2 cup, about 10 minutes. Strain through a medium-mesh sieve set over the measuring cup of broth.

Add the reserved butter to the fat in the saucepan and melt over medium-high heat. Add the flour and cook, whisking constantly, until slightly thickened, 3 to 4 minutes. Slowly whisk in the broth mixture and bring to a boil; then turn the heat down and simmer vigorously, whisking occasionally, until the gravy is reduced to 4 cups, 8 to 16 minutes. Discard the bay leaves, stir in the parsley and thyme, and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Carve the turkey and serve with the hot gravy.

Creole-Style Shrimp Jambalaya

A creole-style (red) jambalaya always includes tomatoes. I like using tomato paste instead of canned or fresh tomatoes because it adds deeper flavor and gives the finished dish a rich hue. The shrimp are cooked for a long time, which may seem odd, but this method yields a flavorful jambalaya with tender—never mushy—shrimp. If you can find head-on shrimp, this is the place to use them; just remove and discard the heads at the point in the recipe where you peel and devein the shrimp.

• 6 scallions, thinly sliced (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
• 3 medium stalks celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
• 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
• 2 lb. large (31 to 35 per lb.) shrimp, preferably wild-caught
• 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 1/4 lb. ham, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 3 Tbs. tomato paste
• 1 dried bay leaf
• 1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• 1/4 tsp. cayenne
• 1/8 tsp. chili powder
• 1/8 tsp. ground allspice
• Pinch of ground cloves
• Kosher salt
• 2 cups long-grain white rice
• 1 tsp. sweet paprika
• Hot sauce, preferably Crystal (optional)

In a 4-quart heavy-duty saucepan, combine the scallion trimmings, celery trimmings, and onion trimmings with 5-1/2 cups of water; bring to a boil over high heat. Add the shrimp, let the water return to a boil, and cook until pink and cooked through, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit for 3 minutes. Strain through a sieve set over a large glass measuring cup, reserving the stock. You will need 4-1/2 cups of stock, so add water if necessary. When cool enough to handle, peel and devein the shrimp. Discard the shells and trimmings.

Melt the butter in a 5- to 6-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven (or other heavy-duty pot) over medium-high heat. Add the celery, onion, and bell pepper and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 7 minutes. Add the ham and the reserved shrimp and cook, stirring often, until any excess moisture evaporates and the ham and vegetables begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until a shade darker, about 3 minutes. Stir in the bay leaf, thyme, cayenne, chili powder, allspice, cloves, and 1-1/2 tsp. salt. Stir in the rice. Add the reserved stock and bring to a boil. Cover, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, undisturbed, just until the rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Check the rice for doneness in several places.

Remove the pot from the heat. Sprinkle the paprika over the jambalaya and, using a fork, gently fluff the scallions and paprika into the jambalaya. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes to let the flavors meld. Serve with hot sauce, if you like.

Classic Bananas Foster

Created at Brennan's restaurant in New Orleans in 1951, this classic dessert was named after loyal customer Richard Foster. Firm, ripe bananas are sautéed in a rum-infused caramel sauce, then flambéed in front of diners and spooned over vanilla ice cream. For extra pyrotechnics, throw a pinch of cinnamon onto the sauce as it flames.
Read the Test Kitchen blog for tips on flambéing safely.

• 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 1 cup lightly packed dark brown sugar
• 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1/4 cup banana liqueur
• 4 firm-ripe bananas, peeled, halved lengthwise, then halved crosswise
• 1/4 cup amber rum, such as Old New Orleans or Goslings
• 1 pint vanilla ice cream

In a 12-inch skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Stir in the brown sugar and cinnamon and cook until moist, about 1 minute. Add the banana liqueur and cook, stirring continuously, until the grainy texture disappears and the mixture rolls off the spoon in a steady stream, 1 to 2 minutes. Put the banana quarters rounded side down in the pan. Cook until the bananas begin to soften, 2 to 3 minutes.


Turn the bananas onto their flat sides. Remove the pan from the heat and pour in the rum. Set the pan over high heat and carefully ignite the rum with a long match or grill lighter. Gently shake the pan until the flame subsides. Remove from the heat.


Place a generous scoop of ice cream in 6 to 8 individual heatproof dessert bowls. Arrange 2 to 3 pieces of sautéed banana around each scoop of ice cream. Spoon on the sauce and serve immediately.

Chocolate Cupped Cakes with Coffee and Chicory

This coffee and chicory "cupped cake" is made with a stiff, eggless cake batter that gets topped with a cocoa crumble and then covered with coffee. Baked in actual coffee cups, the cake soufflés up and makes its own built-in lava sauce on the bottom. It’s fantastic eaten within an hour or two of baking, while the cake is still warm, soft, and molten.

• 2 cups plus 2 Tbs. sugar
• 1/4 cup light brown sugar
• 1/2 cup Dutch-processed cocoa powder
• 3 tsp. unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 1-1/4 cups heavy cream
• 1 tsp. vanilla extract
• 2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 Tbs. instant espresso powder
• 2 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 3/4 cup brewed New Orleans-style chicory coffee

Heat the oven to 350°F. Spray the insides of 6 large oven-safe coffee cups or six 6-oz. ramekins with nonstick cooking spray and place on a rimmed baking sheet.


To make the cocoa sprinkle, whisk 1/4 cup of the sugar, the light brown sugar, and 2 Tbs. of the cocoa powder in a small bowl until most of the brown sugar lumps are broken up, and set aside.


Using a stand mixer (or in a large bowl if using a hand mixer), blend the butter and remaining sugar together on medium speed until the sugar looks like wet sand, about 2 minutes. Reduce the speed to low and add the cream and vanilla, mixing until well blended, using a rubber spatula to scrape the sides of the bowl as necessary.


Whisk the flour, the remaining cocoa powder, espresso powder, baking powder, and salt together in a large bowl and then add it to the butter mixture. Mix on low speed until a stiff dough comes together, then increase the speed to medium and beat for 15 seconds.


Divide the batter between the coffee cups, filling each one about half full, using the back of a spoon to press the batter into the cup. Top each with 2 Tbs. of the reserved cocoa sprinkle and then pour 3 Tbs. of coffee over the cocoa. Bake until the cakes soufflé up and the top of each cake is crusty and dry on top with no visible wet spots, about 55 minutes to 1 hour. Cool for at least 20 minutes before serving.

Chicken-Andouille Filé Gumbo

Do not add filé powder to the entire pot of gumbo. If gumbo is reheated with filé powder in it, the filé will become stringy and unpleasant.

• 1 lb. andouille sausage or other spicy smoked pork sausage, sliced in half lengthwise, then cut into 1/3-inch-thick half-moon slices
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil
• One 3- to 4-lb. chicken, cut into 8 pieces
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 large white onion, coarsely chopped
• 3 stalks celery, coarsely chopped
• 1 cup chopped green bell pepper
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 quarts low-salt chicken broth
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 tsp. dried thyme
• 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced (dark- and light-green parts only)
• Louisiana-style hot sauce, to taste
• 1/4 cup hot cooked white rice per serving
• 1/2 to 1 tsp. filé powder per serving

Prepare the sausage and chicken:

Heat a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until hot, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the andouille and cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until well browned, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl. Add 1/2 cup water to the skillet and immediately scrape the bottom with a wooden spoon to release any cooked-on bits. Reserve this liquid.

Heat the oil in a 7- to 8-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper and sauté the chicken in two batches until golden brown on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer to the bowl with the sausage.

Make the roux:

Add the flour to the oil remaining in the Dutch oven and stir constantly with a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula over medium-high heat until the roux reaches the color of caramel, 4 to 8 minutes. Add the onion and stir until the roux deepens to a chocolate-brown, 1 to 3 minutes. Add the celery, bell pepper, and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until slightly softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the chicken broth, 1 quart of water, the liquid reserved from the sausage pan, and the sausage, chicken, bay leaves, and thyme.

Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat and simmer uncovered until the chicken is falling off the bone, about 45 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate. If you like, skim the fat from the surface of the gumbo with a large shallow spoon.

When the chicken is cool enough to handle, discard the skin and bones, pull the chicken meat into bite-size pieces, and return the meat to the gumbo. Season to taste with salt and pepper if necessary (you may find that the sausage and broth provided enough seasoning).

Serve the gumbo:

Five minutes before serving, add the scallions and hot sauce to taste. Serve in large soup bowls over 1/4 cup cooked rice per serving. Sprinkle 1/2 to 1 tsp. of the filé powder on top of each bowl of gumbo and stir to thicken, or pass the filé at the table for everyone to add to taste.

Cajun-Style Chicken and Sausage Jambalaya

This is a traditional Cajun-style (brown) jambalaya, chock full of smoked meats with nary a tomato in sight. Although Louisiana-style ingredients are increasingly available these days, it may be difficult to find the sausages and tasso locally. Don’t forgo this recipe, though, because there are widely available substitutes (see the ingredient list below). Just don’t use breakfast or Italian sausage—their sage and fennel flavors have no place in jambalaya. The Creole seasoning is all-purpose, so both Cajun and Creole cooks use it.

• 1 2-1/2- to 3-lb. chicken, giblets removed
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped (about 2 cups), trimmings reserved
• 3 medium stalks celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
• 1 Tbs. canola oil
• 1/2 lb. fresh chaurice (or Mexican chorizo or other spicy fresh pork or beef sausage), casings removed
• 1/2 lb. andouille (or kielbasa or other smoked sausage), casings removed, halved lengthwise and sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick
• 1/4 lb. tasso (or ham), cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 1 tsp. creole seasoning, preferably Tony Chachere’s Original Creole Seasoning
• 3 cups long-grain white rice
• 3 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• 1 dried bay leaf
• 1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions
• Hot sauce, preferably Crystal (optional)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Pat the chicken dry and season it all over with salt and pepper. Put the chicken breast side down on a roasting rack in a medium (9x13-inch or similar) roasting pan or flameproof baking dish. Tuck the wing tips behind the neck.

Roast the chicken for 30 minutes. Flip and continue roasting until an instant-read thermometer inserted in a thigh registers 165°F to 170°F, about 45 minutes more.

Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and let rest until cool enough to handle, about 30 minutes.

Pull off all of the meat, discarding the skin and reserving the bones; shred the meat into bite-size pieces, cover, and refrigerate.

Put the chicken bones in a 5- to 6-quart pot with the onion and celery trimmings. Add 8 cups of water and bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Lower the heat and simmer until flavorful and reduced to about 6cups of liquid, 35 to 50 minutes. Strain the broth and measure it; you will need 6cups, so add water if necessary.

Heat the oil in a 7- to 8-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven (or other heavy-duty pot) over medium heat. Add the chaurice and use a wooden spatula to break it into small pieces. Raise the heat to medium high and add the andouille, tasso, onion, celery, bell pepper, and Creole seasoning. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are browned, 15 to 20 minutes.

Add the rice and cook, stirring often, until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the shredded chicken, reserved broth, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, and 3/4 tsp. salt; bring to a boil. Cover, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, undisturbed, just until the rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Check the rice for doneness in several places.

Remove the pot from the heat. Using a fork, gently fluff the scallions into the jambalaya. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes to let the flavors meld. Serve with hot sauce, if you like.

Cajun Swordfish with Quick, Creamy Remoulade Sauce

• 1/4 cup mayonnaise
• 1 tsp. whole-grain mustard
• 1 tsp. prepared horseradish, squeezed dry with a paper towel
• 1 tsp. capers, rinsed, drained, and chopped
• 3/4 tsp. hot paprika
• 3/4 tsp. dried thyme
• 3/4 tsp. dried oregano
• 1/2 tsp. garlic powder
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 swordfish steaks, 1/2 inch thick (6 to 8 oz. each), trimmed of any skin or dark flesh
• 1 Tbs. vegetable oil

Tip:

This recipe can be doubled, but you’ll need to use two pans for the fish.

In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, mustard, horseradish, and capers; stir until well blended.

In another small bowl, combine the paprika, thyme, oregano, garlic powder, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/8 tsp. pepper. Brush the swordfish with 1 tsp. of the oil. Spread equal amounts of the paprika mixture onto both sides of the swordfish and let sit for 10 minutes.

In a large cast-iron or heavy-duty skillet, heat the remaining 2 tsp. oil over medium-high heat until very hot. Add the swordfish and cook until well browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Flip the swordfish and continue to cook until the fish is cooked through (cut into it to check) and the second side is well browned, another 3 to 5 minutes. Serve with the rémoulade sauce.

Red Velvet Cake

Red velvet cake is a dessert that everyone oohs and aahs over—it’s tall, dark, and handsome, with deep crimson cake layers and a thick coating of cream cheese frosting above, around, and between. This red velvet cake recipe excerpted from David Guas and Raquel Pelzel's DamGoodSweet, is about as southern as a cake can be, but their version veers a bit from tradition.Browse our special collections for more impressive layer cakes and recipes perfect for Valentine's Day or your Mardi Gras celebration.

For the cake

• 2 sticks (1 cup) plus 2 Tbs. unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 3-1/4 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup Dutch-processed cocoa powder
• 1-1/2 tsp. baking powder
• 1-1/2 tsp. baking soda
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 1 (1-lb.) box light brown sugar (about 2-1/4 cups)
• 3 Tbs. red food coloring
• 2-1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
• 3 large eggs
• 1-3/4 cups buttermilk

For the frosting

• 1-1/4 lb. cream cheese, at room temperature
• 2-1/2 sticks (1-1/4 cups) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 2 tsp. vanilla extract
• 1 (2-lb.) bag confectioners’ sugar (about 7-1/4 cups)

To make the cake

Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease two 9-inch cake pans with 1 Tbs. of butter each. Add 2 Tbs. of the flour to each pan and shake the pans to coat the bottom and sides. Tap out the excess flour and set the pans aside.


Sift the remaining 3 cups of flour with the cocoa, baking powder, baking soda, and salt, and set aside.


In the bowl of a stand mixer (or in a large bowl if using a hand mixer) cream the remaining butter with the brown sugar, food coloring, and vanilla on low to combine. Increase the mixer speed to medium-high and beat until aerated and pale, about 2 minutes. Reduce the speed to medium and add the eggs, one at a time, beating thoroughly between each addition and using a rubber spatula to scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl as necessary. Reduce the speed to low and add one-third of the dry ingredients followed by half of the buttermilk. Repeat, finishing with the final third of the dry mix. Scrape down the bottom and sides of the bowl and divide the batter between the two prepared cake pans, spreading it out as evenly as possible.


Bake until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean and the center of the cake resists slight pressure, about 40 minutes. Cool on a wire rack for 15 minutes, and then run a paring knife around the edges of each pan to release the cake from the sides; invert the cakes onto the cooling rack. Cool for 1 hour, and then wrap each cake in plastic wrap for at least a few hours.

To make the frosting

Beat the cream cheese, butter, and vanilla together in the bowl of a stand mixer (or in a large bowl if using a hand mixer) on low speed to combine. Increase the speed to medium-high and beat until aerated and light, about 2 minutes. Stop the mixer and add a few cups of the confectioners’ sugar, incorporating it into the cream cheese mixture on low speed until combined. Repeat with the remaining sugar, adding it to the mixer in two additions. Once all of the sugar is added, increase the speed to medium-high and beat until fluffy, about 1 minute.

To assemble the cake

Unwrap the cake layers. Slice off the rounded top 1/8 inch of each cake and place the trimmed-away portion in the bowl of a food processor. Slice each cake in half horizontally (you’ll end up with 4 layers), working over a baking sheet to catch any crumb. Add the crumbs to the food processor and pulse until fine.


Place one cake layer on a cake round or large plate (make sure that the diameter of the plate is at least 1 inch larger than the cake). Use an offset spatula to evenly spread a heaping 3/4 cup of frosting on the first cake layer. Repeat with the remaining three cake layers, ending with a bottom half of a cake on top, browned-side up (so you don’t get cake crumbs in the frosting). Spread the remaining frosting over the top and sides of the cake (the sides don’t have to look perfect—you’re going to cover them with cake crumbs anyway). Gently press a handful of the reserved crumbs into the side of the cake until all of the sides are evenly coated. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours before serving.

Creole Salmon Cakes

The relish that accompanies these slightly spicy cakes reminds me of the pickley olive salad you get in a New Orleans muffuletta sandwich; in fact, as a variation, I like to make salmon cake sandwiches.

• 1 lb. raw salmon fillets (preferably wild), skin and pin bones removed, cut into 1-inch chunks
• 1 large egg
• 1 Tbs. country-style (grainy, but not whole-grain) Dijon mustard
• 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
• 1 tsp. hot sauce, preferably Crystal Hot Sauce
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme
• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• Giardiniera Relish 

For the sandwich variation:

• 4 5- to 6-inch hoagie or sub rolls or lengths of soft French or Italian bread from a baguettetype loaf (the bread shouldn’t be too dense nor the crust too crunchy)
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise, or to taste

Tip:

To make mini cakes, portion the mixture into 24 small mounds (about 3/4 oz. each), gently shape into cakes, and cook until nicely browned on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes total.

Put the salmon in a food processor and pulse until chopped medium coarse, two or three 1-second pulses. Take care not to overprocess. There should still be some chunky pieces; you don’t want a completely smooth purée. In a medium bowl, lightly beat the egg. Add the salmon and combine with a rubber spatula. Add the mustard, lemon zest, hot sauce, 1-1/2 tsp. kosher salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper; mix until well combined. Cover the bowl with plastic and chill for at least 30 minutes or up to 4 hours.

Remove the salmon mixture from the refrigerator, turn it out onto a baking sheet, and portion it into eight equal mounds. With wet hands, gently shape each mound into a 2-1/2-inch-wide patty. Sprinkle a pinch of the thyme on both sides of each cake.

Heat the olive oil in a large (12-inch) nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the cakes and reduce the heat to medium. Cook the cakes, turning once, until nicely browned on both sides and the interior no longer looks raw, 5 to 6 minutes total cooking time. Be careful not to overcook the cakes. Transfer the cakes to a plate and cover to keep them warm. Serve hot, with the giardiniera relish on the side.

Grilled Scallops with Rémoulade Sauce

This is a take on the more-familiar shrimp rémoulade. However, in this case we want the bold grilled flavor to come through, so we use the rémoulade sauce as a dipping sauce, much like you would a cocktail sauce. If you prefer, you could toss everything together and serve it over shredded lettuce in the style of a New Orleans lunch.

For the Rémoulade Sauce

• 1/2 cup good-quality mayonnaise, such as Duke’s or another brand without a lot of sugar
• 1 Tbs. capers, drained and minced
• 1 Tbs. sweet pickle relish
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh tarragon
• 1 Tbs. finely minced shallot 
• 1 tsp. tarragon or Champagne vinegar
• 1 to 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/2 tsp. Dijon mustard
• Kosher salt
• A good sprinkle of paprika

For the Scallops:

• 20 to 24 large sea scallops (1-1/2 to 1-3/4 pounds), all about the same thickness, side muscle removed
• Canola oil
• Kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 40 to 48 skewers (optional; if using bamboo, soak in water for 30 minutes)

For the rémoulade sauce, put the mayonnaise, capers, pickle relish, tarragon, shallot, vinegar, garlic, mustard, salt, and paprika into a blender. Pulse several times, until well combined.

Brush each scallop on all sides with the canola oil and season with salt and pepper. If you like, thread two scallops each through doubled skewers. (This helps in the cooking and turning process. By all means you can skip this step, because your scallops should be big enough not to fall through the grill grate when cooking.)

Oil the grill racks. Preheat your grill using all burners set on high and with the lid closed for 10 to 12 minutes.

Place the scallops over direct heat and cook for 2 to 3 minutes on one side, and then turn and cook for an additional 2 to 3 minutes. The scallops should be barely opaque in the center and should feel firm to the touch but with some give. Please don’t overcook the scallops, or they become hockey pucks. Serve the rémoulade sauce along with the scallops.

Smoky Pork Chili with Black-Eyed Peas

The moderately spicy chiles for this smoky pork and black-eyed pea chili were chosen for their flavor, not their heat, which means you can appreciate all of the flavors in the bowl.

For the sofrito

• 6 plum tomatoes, cored and coarsely chopped
• 6 medium cloves garlic, peeled
• 2 large or 3 medium jalapeños, seeded and coarsely chopped
• 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped
• 1 medium red bell pepper, halved, cored, and coarsely chopped
• 1/4 cup plus 2 Tbs. red wine vinegar
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 Tbs. dried oregano
• Kosher salt and ground black pepper
• 2 dried ancho chiles
• 2 dried New Mexico chiles
• 2 canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce

For the chili

• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 2-1/2 lb. ground pork
• 1 Tbs. ground cumin
• 1 tsp. chili powder
• Kosher salt
• 2 cups lower-salt chicken broth
• 4 cups fresh or thawed frozen blackeyed peas (or three 15-oz. cans, drained and rinsed)
• Sour cream, for serving
• Thinly sliced scallions, for serving

Make the sofrito

Tip:

Sofrito is a flavoring base made from aromatic vegetables and herbs. Roasting these ingredients intensifies them.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 500°F.

Put the tomatoes, garlic, jalapeños, onion, bell pepper, vinegar, oil, oregano, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper in a 9x13-inch roasting pan and stir to combine. Roast, stirring every 15 minutes and scraping the bottom of the pan, until collapsed and very soft, about 45 minutes. Set aside.

While the vegetables roast, heat a 10-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until hot, 2 to 3 minutes. Put the ancho and New Mexico chiles in the pan and toast on both sides until blistered, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Put the chiles in a medium bowl, cover with 2 cups warm water (if they rise to the top, weight them down with a bowl), and soak until soft, about 20 minutes. Drain in a fine sieve set over a bowl; reserve the soaking water.

Stem, seed, and coarsely chop the chiles. Put them in a food processor with the chipotle chiles and the roasted vegetables and purée until the mixture is completely smooth. Set aside.

Make the chili

Heat the vegetable oil in a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot over medium-high heat. Add the pork, cumin, chili powder, and 1 Tbs. plus 1ƒ tsp. salt; cook, stirring, until the meat is lightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the sofrito and stir until thoroughly combined. Add the reserved chile water, chicken broth, and fresh black-eyed peas. Bring the chili to a boil, reduce the heat to medium low and simmer until the black-eyed peas are tender, about 45 minutes (if you’re using canned or frozen black-eyed peas, simmer the meat and broth for 30 minutes, add the peas, and continue to cook for 10 minutes longer). Season to taste with salt. Serve with a dollop of sour cream and scallions sprinkled over the top.

You can make the chili up to 4 days ahead; keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator and reheat gently before serving.

Grilled Corn with Spiced Tasso Butter

Smoked Cajun tasso ham lends and incredible spicy, smoky note to corn that's been grilled and scraped off the cob. If you can't find tasso ham, substitute another smoked ham.

• 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
• 1 oz. tasso (smoked Cajun pork), minced (1/4 cup)
• 1/2 tsp. garlic powder
• 1/2 tsp. onion powder
• 1/2 tsp. sweet pimentón (smoked paprika)
• 1/2 tsp. honey
• 1/4 tsp. ground mace
• 1/4 tsp. dried sage
• 1/8 tsp. cayenne
• 1/8 tsp. dried thyme
• 8 medium ears corn, shucked
• Kosher salt

In a small bowl, mix the butter, tasso, garlic powder, onion powder, paprika, honey, mace, sage, cayenne, and thyme until well combined. (The tasso butter can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or frozen for up to 2 months. Find more ways to use up the rest of the tasso at our Test Kitchen Blog.)


Prepare a gas or charcoal grill fire for direct cooking over medium (450°F) heat. Grill the corn, turning occasionally, until tender and browned in spots, about 10 minutes. (The corn can be grilled 1 day ahead.)


Cut the corn kernels from the cobs. In a 12-inch skillet over medium heat, melt 2 Tbs. of the tasso butter. Add the corn and toss until heated through, 2 to 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt. Transfer to a warm serving bowl, garnish with a dollop of the remaining butter, and serve immediately.

Creole Salmon Cakes

The relish that accompanies these slightly spicy cakes reminds me of the pickley olive salad you get in a New Orleans muffuletta sandwich; in fact, as a variation, I like to make salmon cake sandwiches.

• 1 lb. raw salmon fillets (preferably wild), skin and pin bones removed, cut into 1-inch chunks
• 1 large egg
• 1 Tbs. country-style (grainy, but not whole-grain) Dijon mustard
• 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
• 1 tsp. hot sauce, preferably Crystal Hot Sauce
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme
• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• Giardiniera Relish 

For the sandwich variation:

• 4 5- to 6-inch hoagie or sub rolls or lengths of soft French or Italian bread from a baguettetype loaf (the bread shouldn’t be too dense nor the crust too crunchy)
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise, or to taste

Tip:

To make mini cakes, portion the mixture into 24 small mounds (about 3/4 oz. each), gently shape into cakes, and cook until nicely browned on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes total.

Put the salmon in a food processor and pulse until chopped medium coarse, two or three 1-second pulses. Take care not to overprocess. There should still be some chunky pieces; you don’t want a completely smooth purée. In a medium bowl, lightly beat the egg. Add the salmon and combine with a rubber spatula. Add the mustard, lemon zest, hot sauce, 1-1/2 tsp. kosher salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper; mix until well combined. Cover the bowl with plastic and chill for at least 30 minutes or up to 4 hours.

Remove the salmon mixture from the refrigerator, turn it out onto a baking sheet, and portion it into eight equal mounds. With wet hands, gently shape each mound into a 2-1/2-inch-wide patty. Sprinkle a pinch of the thyme on both sides of each cake.

Heat the olive oil in a large (12-inch) nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the cakes and reduce the heat to medium. Cook the cakes, turning once, until nicely browned on both sides and the interior no longer looks raw, 5 to 6 minutes total cooking time. Be careful not to overcook the cakes. Transfer the cakes to a plate and cover to keep them warm. Serve hot, with the giardiniera relish on the side.

Southern Roast Turkey and Gravy

Buttering and salting the turkey 1 to 2 days before roasting seasons the bird inside and out without the fuss of wet brining. Be sure to let the bird warm up at room temperature before roasting so it cooks up juicy and tender.

For the turkey

• 1 16-lb. fresh turkey, neck, tail, and giblets reserved for the gravy
• 5 oz. (10 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. paprika (hot or sweet)
• 2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh thyme
• 4 tsp. minced garlic
• 3/4 tsp. cayenne
• 1/4 tsp. celery seed

For the gravy

• 1 small yellow onion, quartered
• 2 medium stalks celery, halved crosswise
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 3 cups lower-salt chicken broth
• 2 cups dry white wine
• 2 bay leaves
• 2-1/4 oz. (1/2 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Butter and salt the turkey

Line a 12x16-inch heavy-duty roasting pan with 2 layers of paper towels. Blot the turkey dry inside and out.

In a small bowl, combine the butter with 2 tsp. salt and 1 tsp. pepper; stir in the paprika, thyme, garlic, cayenne, and celery seed. Set aside 1/4 cup of the butter mixture for making the gravy.

Slide your hand under the turkey’s skin to loosen it from the breast and thigh meat. Using your fingers, spread the butter directly on the breast and thigh meat, being careful not to tear the skin. Season the turkey inside and out with 1-1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper. Tuck the wings behind the neck and tie the legs together with kitchen twine.

Set the turkey breast side up in the prepared pan. Loosely cover with waxed paper or parchment and refrigerate for 1 to 2 days.

Make the broth for the gravy

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the turkey neck, tail, giblets (excluding the liver), onion, and celery with the oil; arrange in a single layer. Roast, stirring once, until well browned, about 40 minutes.

Transfer the roasted ingredients to a heavy-duty 5-quart pot. Pour 1 cup of the chicken broth onto the hot baking sheet and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom with a wooden spatula; transfer to the pot. Add the remaining broth and 1 quart water. Bring to a boil; lower the heat and simmer gently until reduced to 3 cups, about 1-1/2 hours. Strain through a medium-mesh sieve into a 2-quart measuring cup; discard the solids.

Roast the turkey

Uncover the turkey, discard the paper towels, and set the turkey on a V-rack in the roasting pan. Let sit for 1 hour at room temperature.

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Roast the turkey, basting occasionally after 1 hour and rotating the panhalfway through, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the
thickest part of the thigh registers 165°F, 2 to 2-1/2 hours. If the skingets too dark during roasting, tent with foil.

Tilt the turkey so the juice in the cavity runs into the roasting pan. Transfer the turkey to a platter or carving board. Remove the string, tent with foil, and let rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour before carving and serving.

Make the gravy

Pour the drippings from the turkey roasting pan into a fat separator and allow the fat to rise to the top. Transfer 1/4 cup of the fat to a 3- to 4-quart saucepan; discard the remaining fat and add the defatted drippings to the reserved broth in the measuring cup.

Add the wine and bay leaves to the roasting pan and boil over medium-high heat, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, until reduced to 1/2 cup, about 10 minutes. Strain through a medium-mesh sieve set over the measuring cup of broth.

Add the reserved butter to the fat in the saucepan and melt over medium-high heat. Add the flour and cook, whisking constantly, until slightly thickened, 3 to 4 minutes. Slowly whisk in the broth mixture and bring to a boil; then turn the heat down and simmer vigorously, whisking occasionally, until the gravy is reduced to 4 cups, 8 to 16 minutes. Discard the bay leaves, stir in the parsley and thyme, and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Carve the turkey and serve with the hot gravy.

Gumbo Ya Ya

Bone-in chicken gives the stew more flavor; the meat becomes so tender that it falls from the bone. If, however, you don’t feel like fishing out the bones later, you can use the same amount of boneless thighs; they will likely take less time to cook, so check for tenderness sooner.

• 3 Tbs. plus 3/4 cup vegetable oil
• 2-1/2 lb. skinless chicken thighs, preferably bone-in
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 medium bunch celery, thinly sliced
• 4 large onions, diced
• 4 green or red bell peppers, diced
• 2 Tbs. minced garlic
• 1/2 to 1 tsp. cayenne or 5 fresh cayenne peppers, diced
• 3/4 tsp. dried oregano
• 3/4 tsp. dried basil
• 3/4 tsp. dried thyme
• 4 bay leaves
• 8 cups homemade or lower-salt chicken broth or water
• 1-1/2 lb. andouille sausage or other spicy smoked sausage, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
• 1 Tbs. filé powder
• 6 cups cooked white rice
• Chopped scallions for garnish
• Tabasco or other Louisiana-style hot sauce

In a heavy-based soup pot, heat 3 Tbs. of the oil over high heat until almost smoking. While the oil is heating, season the chicken generously with salt and pepper, dust it with 1/4 cup of the flour, and shake off the excess. Sear the chicken in the hot oil until golden brown, turning once to brown both sides, 4 minutes on each side. Remove the chicken and set aside.


Let the oil reheat for a minute and then reduce the heat to medium high and add the celery, onions, and peppers and cook until soft, 10 to 12 minutes, stirring to prevent scorching. Remove the vegetables and any liquid from the pan and set aside. Add 3/4 cup oil to the pot and let it heat up for a minute over medium heat. Slowly add the remaining flour to the pan and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is the color of chocolate, 10 to 20 minutes. Stir carefully, being sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the pot to prevent scorching. Pay attention not to burn the roux; if you do burn it, you’ll have to start over.


When the roux has reached a good mahogany brown, return the cooked vegetables to the pot, along with the garlic, cayenne, oregano, basil, thyme, and bay leaves. Stir to scrape the bottom of the pot and cook until well combined, 3 to 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.


Slowly add the broth while stirring until smoothly blended. Add the chicken and the sausage. Bring to a simmer and skim off excess fat. Simmer uncovered, skimming any foam or fat that rises to the surface, until the chicken meat is so tender that it falls easily from the bones, about 2 hours (begin checking earlier). Remove the bones from the pot and discard.


Return the soup to a boil and stir in the filé powder, stirring vigorously to avoid clumping, until the filé powder is dissolved. Taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as necessary. Serve the gumbo in bowls over the cooked white rice with chopped scallions and Tabasco to taste.

Stove-Top Jambalaya

What a fun combination of flavors and colors! This whole concoction boasts an amazing array of ingredients—garlic, peppers (sweet and hot), tomatoes, herbs, spices, and Cajun-seasoned chicken, shrimp, and sausage.

• 1 cup quick-cooking brown or white rice
• 2 tsp. olive oil
• 1/2 cup chopped onion
• 1 large green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/4 cup diced pickled jalapeños
• 1/2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken breasts or tenders, cut into 1-inch chunks
• 1 tsp. Cajun or Creole seasoning
• 1 tsp. dried oregano
• 1/2 lb. andouille sausage, chorizo sausage, or kielbasa, cut into 1-inch-thick rounds
• 1/2 lb. medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
• One 28-oz. can diced tomatoes
• 2 bay leaves
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
• Table salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cook the rice according to the package directions.


Heat the oil in a large saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion, bell pepper, garlic, and jalapeños and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the chicken and cook until browned on all sides, about 5 minutes. Add the Cajun seasoning and oregano and stir to coat the chicken and vegetables. Add the sausage and shrimp and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and bay leaves, bring to a simmer, and let simmer until the chicken and shrimp are cooked through (the shrimp will be bright pink), about 3 minutes.

Remove the bay leaves and stir in the cooked rice and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

White Bean Soup with Andouille & Collard Greens

This soup is a complete meal! Just add a warm French baguette and you’re golden. Feel free to experiment with different types of sausage, including the wonderful variety of flavored chicken sausages sold with the other poultry products at the supermarket.

• 1 Tbs. olive oil
• 1 cup chopped yellow onion
• 12 oz. andouille or chorizo sausage, diced
• 4 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
• Two 15-oz. cans cannellini or other white beans, drained
• 1 bunch fresh collard greens, washed well, tough stems removed, and chopped, or two 10-oz. packages frozen chopped collard greens, thawed
• 1 Tbs. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
• Table salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Heat the oil in large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the sausage and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a simmer.


Using a fork, slightly mash most of the white beans and add to the pan. Simmer for 5 minutes, then add the collard greens and simmer until wilted, about 3 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, season with salt and pepper, and serve.

Shrimp Rémoulade on Tender Greens

New Orleans rémoulade is a spiced-up version of the classic French mayonnaise-style sauce. The cool, fresh, briny flavors of boiled shrimp dressed in remoulade make this dish a good starter to a rich, hearty Creole dinner menu.

For the Rémoulade sauce

• 1 Tbs. white-wine vinegar
• 1 Tbs. prepared yellow mustard
• 2 Tbs. Creole or country-style Dijon mustard
• 2 tsp. tomato paste
• 1 small clove garlic
• Dash of Tabasco sauce
• 1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
• 1 large egg
• 1/4 tsp. paprika
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil
• 3 Tbs. chopped scallions (white and pale green parts from 2 scallions)
• 3 Tbs. chopped celery
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• Kosher salt

For the shrimp

• 1/3 cup kosher salt
• 1 Tbs. cayenne
• 2 Tbs. whole black peppercorns
• 2 lemons, cut in quarters
• 1 large clove garlic
• 4 bay leaves
• 1 medium onion, diced
• 1-1/2 lb. large (21-25 per lb.) shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails left on
• Tender leafy lettuce (such as bibb or Boston), cut into strips

Make the sauce:

In a food processor, combine the vinegar, mustards, tomato paste, garlic, Tabasco, lemon juice, egg, and paprika. Pulse to mix. With the processor running, slowly add the oil in a steady stream. Add the scallions, celery, parsley, and salt to taste; pulse briefly to combine. Overprocessing may cause separation. Chill.

Prepare the shrimp:

In a 6- to 8-qt. pan, combine 1 gallon water with 1/4 cup of the salt, the cayenne, peppercorns, lemon, garlic, bay leaves, and onion. Bring to a boil and then simmer for 15 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook until they’re pink and just barely opaque through the center, about 3 minutes. Pull the shrimp from the boil and put them in a large bowl. Cover with ice and then add 2 cups of the boil liquid to the iced shrimp. Soak for 5 minutes. Add the remaining salt. When the shrimp are well chilled, drain.


Before serving, dip each shrimp in the rémoulade sauce to coat and arrange on a bed of the lettuce.

Chicken-Andouille Filé Gumbo

Do not add filé powder to the entire pot of gumbo. If gumbo is reheated with filé powder in it, the filé will become stringy and unpleasant.

• 1 lb. andouille sausage or other spicy smoked pork sausage, sliced in half lengthwise, then cut into 1/3-inch-thick half-moon slices
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil
• One 3- to 4-lb. chicken, cut into 8 pieces
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 large white onion, coarsely chopped
• 3 stalks celery, coarsely chopped
• 1 cup chopped green bell pepper
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 quarts low-salt chicken broth
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 tsp. dried thyme
• 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced (dark- and light-green parts only)
• Louisiana-style hot sauce, to taste
• 1/4 cup hot cooked white rice per serving
• 1/2 to 1 tsp. filé powder per serving

Prepare the sausage and chicken:

Heat a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until hot, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the andouille and cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until well browned, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl. Add 1/2 cup water to the skillet and immediately scrape the bottom with a wooden spoon to release any cooked-on bits. Reserve this liquid.

Heat the oil in a 7- to 8-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper and sauté the chicken in two batches until golden brown on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer to the bowl with the sausage.

Make the roux:

Add the flour to the oil remaining in the Dutch oven and stir constantly with a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula over medium-high heat until the roux reaches the color of caramel, 4 to 8 minutes. Add the onion and stir until the roux deepens to a chocolate-brown, 1 to 3 minutes. Add the celery, bell pepper, and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until slightly softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the chicken broth, 1 quart of water, the liquid reserved from the sausage pan, and the sausage, chicken, bay leaves, and thyme.

Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat and simmer uncovered until the chicken is falling off the bone, about 45 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate. If you like, skim the fat from the surface of the gumbo with a large shallow spoon.

When the chicken is cool enough to handle, discard the skin and bones, pull the chicken meat into bite-size pieces, and return the meat to the gumbo. Season to taste with salt and pepper if necessary (you may find that the sausage and broth provided enough seasoning).

Serve the gumbo:

Five minutes before serving, add the scallions and hot sauce to taste. Serve in large soup bowls over 1/4 cup cooked rice per serving. Sprinkle 1/2 to 1 tsp. of the filé powder on top of each bowl of gumbo and stir to thicken, or pass the filé at the table for everyone to add to taste.

White Bean Soup with Andouille & Collard Greens

This soup is a complete meal! Just add a warm French baguette and you’re golden. Feel free to experiment with different types of sausage, including the wonderful variety of flavored chicken sausages sold with the other poultry products at the supermarket.

• 1 Tbs. olive oil
• 1 cup chopped yellow onion
• 12 oz. andouille or chorizo sausage, diced
• 4 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
• Two 15-oz. cans cannellini or other white beans, drained
• 1 bunch fresh collard greens, washed well, tough stems removed, and chopped, or two 10-oz. packages frozen chopped collard greens, thawed
• 1 Tbs. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
• Table salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Heat the oil in large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the sausage and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a simmer.


Using a fork, slightly mash most of the white beans and add to the pan. Simmer for 5 minutes, then add the collard greens and simmer until wilted, about 3 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, season with salt and pepper, and serve.