Spiced Quince and Apple Sauce

If you happen to see bumpy yellow quinces in the fall at your supermarket or farmer's market, snatch them up; they make a wonderfully fragrant addition to plain old applesauce, and turn it a beautiful tawny-pink color. Vanilla bean and star anise lend even more complexity.

• 2 medium quinces, peeled, quartered, and cored
• 1/4 cup sugar, plus more to taste
• 4 large sweet apples, such as Jonagold, peeled, quartered, and cored
• One 3-inch cinnamon stick
• 1/2 vanilla bean, split
• 1/2 star anise

Put the quinces, 1/4 cup sugar, and 1 cup water in a heavy medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, until the quinces turn pink and are beginning to soften, about an hour.

Add the apples, cinnamon stick, vanilla bean, and star anise to the pan and continue simmering, covered and stirring occasionally, for another 45 minutes, or until all the fruit is very tender. Taste for sweetness and add a bit more sugar if needed.

Remove from the heat and let cool, then fish out the spices and discard. Mash with a potato masher or put through a food mill using  a medium disk. Serve slightly warm or cold.

Blackberry Grunt

This old-fashioned dessert is essentially a stovetop cobbler; it's called a grunt supposedly because of the sound the berries make as they simmer. You can substitute blueberries for the blackberries if you like.

For the berries:

• 6 cups blackberries
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 1/3 cup water
• 1 Tbs. grated lemon zest

For the dumpling dough:

• 4-1/2 oz. (1 cup) all-purpose flour
• 2 Tbs. sugar
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. baking soda
• 1/8 tsp. salt
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted
• 1/2 cup buttermilk; more as needed
• 1 Tbs. sugar mixed with 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• Vanilla ice cream for garnish (optional)

In a deep 10-inch skillet that has a tight-fitting lid, combine the berries, sugar, water, and zest.

In a bowl, stir together the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Stir in the melted butter. Add enough of the buttermilk to form a soft, sticky dough that’s slightly wetter than a biscuit dough.

Meanwhile, bring the berry mixture to a boil over high heat, stirring once or twice. Reduce to a simmer and, using a soupspoon, spoon the dough over the fruit, creating about 8 small dumplings. Sprinkle the dumplings with the cinnamon-sugar mixture. Cover the skillet tightly with the lid or foil and steam over medium-low heat, without uncovering, until the dumplings are set and the surface is dry when touched with a fingertip, about 15 minutes (If you’re not sure if the dumplings are done, you can gently break one open with a fork.) Try not to remove the lid (which would let steam escape) before 15 minutes, and if the dumplings need further cooking, quickly return the lid. Serve immediately, spooning the warm grunt (it will be fairly liquid) into small bowls. Garnish with vanilla ice cream, if you like.

Panang Curry Beef with Basil

This easy-to-make dinner will satisfy your craving for Thai food. Panang curry paste is milder than red curry paste and usually includes peanuts; look for it in the Asian section of the supermarket.

• 1 lb. flank steak, halved lengthwise
• 1 13.5-oz. can unsweetened coconut milk (do not stir)
• 2 Tbs. panang or red curry paste
• 2 Tbs. extra-crunchy peanut butter
• 5 tsp. fish sauce
• 4 tsp. dark brown sugar
• 1 medium red bell pepper, very thinly sliced lengthwise
• 1 medium onion, very thinly sliced lengthwise
• 1 cup thawed frozen peas
• 1 cup loosely packed basil leaves, torn
• 1-1/2 Tbs. fresh lime juice

Freeze the steak for 15 minutes to make slicing easier. Thinly slice the steak across the grain, no thicker than 1/8 inch.

Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Spoon the thick coconut cream from the top of the can into the skillet. Add the curry paste and cook, stirring, until fragrant and beginning to dry, 2 to 3 minutes.

Stir in the remaining coconut milk, peanut butter, fish sauce, brown sugar, and 1/4 cup water and bring to a simmer. Stir in the red pepper and onion, cover, and cook until the vegetables are crisp-tender, about 3 minutes.

Add the sliced beef, peas, and the basil; cook, uncovered, turning the beef often, until it no longer looks raw, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the lime juice and serve.

Flat Iron Steak with Zucchini, Edamame, and Soba Noodles

The deep flavor of flat iron steak works really well with the umami-rich soy sauce and sesame oil featured in this dish. If you can’t find flat iron, substitute rib-eye.

• Kosher salt
• 8 oz. dried soba noodles
• 1 Tbs. Asian sesame oil
• 3/4 cup soy sauce
• 3/4 cup mirin
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• 3 1/4-inch-thick slices peeled fresh ginger
• 2 medium cloves garlic, peeled
• 2 flat iron steaks (8 to 10 oz. each)
• 1 lb. zucchini (2 medium), cut into 2-inch matchsticks
• 1 12-oz. bag frozen shelled edamame, thawed (about 2 cups)
• 1 Tbs. chopped pickled ginger (optional)
• 2 small scallions, white and light-green parts, thinly sliced (optional)
• 1 Tbs. toasted sesame seeds (optional)

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil and cook the noodles until tender, about 4 minutes. Drain well, transfer to a large bowl, toss with the sesame oil, cover, and keep warm.

Meanwhile, combine the soy sauce, mirin, sugar, ginger, garlic, and 1 cup water in a 10-inch straight sided sauté pan. Bring to a boil, and then add the steaks. Turn the heat down and simmer gently, flipping once, until medium rare (130°F), 12 to 16 minutes. Transfer the steaks to a cutting board, reserving the liquid in the pan. Discard the garlic and ginger.

Return the liquid to a boil. Add the zucchini and edamame, return to a boil, and then lower to a simmer. Cook until the vegetables are just tender, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the vegetables to the bowl of noodles. Toss well, cover, and keep warm.

Boil the cooking liquid until reduced by half, about 5 minutes.

Thinly slice the steaks across the grain. Arrange the noodle mixture on a platter or divide it among 6 shallow bowls. Top with the beef and the pickled ginger, if using. Drizzle some of the sauce over the beef and garnish with the scallions and sesame seeds, if using. Serve, passing the rest of the sauce at the table.

Corned Beef and Cabbage

In this take on the classic Irish-American boiled dinner, the vegetables are drizzled with garlic butter and broiled for added flavor. Pickling spice is a blend of cardamom, bay leaves, ginger, peppercorns, and other flavorings; look for it in the spice aisle of your grocery store.

• 5 large cloves garlic, smashed
• 4 large sprigs fresh thyme  
• 3 Tbs. pickling spice
• 2 dried bay leaves  
• 1 Tbs. black peppercorns 
• 1 4- to 5-lb. corned beef brisket 
• 4 medium red potatoes (about 1-1/2 lb.), scrubbed and quartered
• 4 large carrots (about 1 lb.), peeled and cut into 2-inch lengths  
• 2 large yellow onions (about 1 lb.), quartered 
• 2 large celery stalks, cut into 2-inch lengths 
• 1 large head green cabbage (about 3 lb.), outer leaves discarded, quartered 
• 3 oz. (6 Tbs.) unsalted butter 
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Malt vinegar, for drizzling (optional) 

Cut a 5-inch square of cheese cloth and lay it on a flat work surface. Put 4 of the garlic cloves, the thyme, pickling spice, bay leaves, and peppercorns in the center of the cloth. Tie the opposite corners together, creating a pouch.

Put the brisket and the spice pouch in a 12-quart stock pot and add enough cold water to cover the brisket by 4 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat and then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook until the beef is nearly fork-tender, about 3-1/2 hours. 

Add the potatoes, carrots, onions, celery, and cabbage. Simmer until the meat is fork-tender and the vegetables are just tender, about 30 minutes more. With tongs, transfer the meat to a cutting board, tent with foil, and let rest for 15 minutes. 

Using a wire skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer the vegetables to a foil-lined baking sheet. Reserve the cooking liquid and discard the spice pouch. 

In a 1-quart saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat and add the remaining garlic clove. Cook until the garlic is lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Discard the garlic.

Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the broiler on high. Drizzle the butter over the vegetables and broil until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. 

Slice the corned beef and arrange on a serving platter, surrounded by the vegetables. Drizzle some of the cooking liquid over the meat and pass the remaining liquid and malt vinegar (if using) on the side. Serve hot.

Gnocchi with Fava Beans, Peas & Asparagus

The freshness of the spring quartet of vegetables (including both English peas and snap peas) in Waxman’s dish keeps the hefty gnocchi light. This recipe makes more gnocchi than you will need, but the remainder can be frozen for later use.

For the gnocchi

• 3 russet potatoes (about 1-3/4 lb.)
• 2 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1 sprig rosemary
• Kosher salt
• 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 large egg
• 1/2 Tbs. olive oil, more for the cooked gnocchi

For the vegetables

• 1/2 cup peas, fresh or frozen
• 1/2 cup fava beans, fresh or frozen
• 6 medium spears asparagus, ends trimmed
• 8 sugar snap pea pods, strings removed
• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For serving

• 1 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated (1/2 cup with a rasp grater)

Make the gnocchi

Put the potatoes in a 4- to 5-quart saucepan and cover with 1 inch of cool water. Add the garlic, rosemary, and the 1 Tbs. salt. Bring to a boil, and then reduce the heat and simmer over medium heat. Cook until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork, about 45 minutes. Remove the cooked potatoes from the water and let them cool slightly.

When the potatoes are just cool enough to handle, peel them and force them through a ricer onto a clean work surface, making a well in the center. Add half of the flour, the egg, and the olive oil to the well and knead until well combined. Continue to add the flour in 1/4-cup increments until it is absorbed into the egg and oil mixture and a dough begins to form. You may not need all the flour. When the dough is still moist but no longer sticky, form it into a ball. Cut the ball into quarters with a sharp knife. Wrap three of the pieces in plastic and put them in the refrigerator.

Roll the remaining piece of dough on the work surface into a 1/2-inch thick rope, dusting with flour as needed to prevent it from sticking. Using a sharp knife, cut the rope into 3/4-inch pieces and transfer them to a lightly floured baking sheet. Repeat this process with the remaining dough pieces.

Set aside about 60 gnocchi for four servings, and refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap, on baking sheets until needed. Freeze the remainder for another use on baking sheets for about 45 minutes, or until the gnocchi pieces are firmly frozen. Transfer the gnocchi to a freezer bag and store for future use.

Blanch the vegetables

Bring a 7- to 8-quart pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Have ready a large bowl of ice water. Prepare a large paper-towel-lined plate and set aside. Add the peas to the boiling water and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Remove from the water with a slotted spoon and immediately plunge into the ice-water bath. When cool, transfer the peas to the paper-towel-lined plate.

Add the fava beans to the boiling water and cook until just tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from the water with a slotted spoon and immediately plunge into the ice-water bath. When cool, drain the favas and peel the outer skin. Place the beans on the plate with the peas.

Add the asparagus to the boiling water and cook until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the water with a slotted spoon and immediately plunge into the ice-water bath. When cool, transfer the asparagus to the paper-towel-lined plate.

Repeat this process with the sugar snap peas and drain on the plate with the asparagus. Cut the asparagus and snap peas into ¾-inch diagonal pieces. Set aside. Continue to boil the blanching water.

Cook the gnocchi

Set aside a large bowl for the cooked gnocchi. Drop as many gnocchi into the boiling water used to blanch the vegetables as will fit without crowding. When gnocchi rises to the top, continue cooking for another 1 to 1-1/2 minutes. Remove from the water with a slotted spoon, place in the reserved bowl, drizzle with 1/2 tsp. of olive oil and gently mix with a rubber spatula to prevent sticking. Repeat this procedure with the remaining gnocchi.

Cook the vegetables

Heat the olive oil and butter in a large 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add the cooked gnocchi and cook, stirring occasionally, until they just begin to brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the peas, fava beans, asparagus, sugar snap peas, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper and cook until the vegetables are just warmed through, about 2 minutes. Add some of the pasta water to the pan if the mixture seems dry. Adjust the seasoning if necessary.

To serve

Spoon the mixture into shallow serving bowls and top with the cheese.

Simple Seafood Stew

It’s hard to decide which is better, the mix of fresh, sweet seafood or the briny, buttery broth in the bottom of the bowl. Fortunately, each aromatic bowlful of stew contains plenty of both. Serving some crusty bread with this dish for mopping up the broth is simply nonnegotiable.

• 12 jumbo shrimp (21 to 25 per lb.), peeled (reserve the shells) and deveined
• 1 clove garlic, smashed and peeled, plus 1 Tbs. finely chopped
• 4 large sprigs fresh parsley, plus 1/4 cup chopped
• 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter, more to taste
• 1 Tbs. olive oil
• 1/4 cup finely chopped shallot
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 2 dozen small littleneck clams, scrubbed
• 1 lb. mussels, scrubbed and debearded
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 large ripe tomato, seeded and diced
• 8 large sea scallops, side muscle removed, halved horizontally

In a 5- to 6-quart pot, toast the shrimp shells and the garlic clove over medium-high heat, stirring, until the shells turn pink, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the parsley sprigs and 2 cups water, bring to a boil, then boil for 3 minutes. Strain the broth into a bowl and reserve.

Heat the butter and olive oil in the cleaned pot over medium heat until the butter is melted. Add the chopped garlic and the shallot and cook, stirring, until the garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the wine and the reserved shrimp broth and bring to a boil over high heat.

Add the clams and mussels and cook, covered, until the mussels start to open, about 4 minutes. As they open, transfer them with a slotted spoon to a large, wide serving bowl or 4 large individual bowls. Continue to cook the clams, stirring occasionally, until they start to open, about 2 minutes more. Transfer them to the serving bowl. (Discard any clams or mussels that don’t open after 8 minutes.) Sprinkle with half of the chopped parsley.

Reduce the heat to medium and season the broth with salt and pepper to taste. Add the tomato, scallops, and shrimp to the broth, cover, and cook until the shrimp turn pink and the scallops are opaque, about 2 minutes. Transfer the shrimp, scallops, and broth to the bowl and sprinkle with the remaining chopped parsley.

Vegetable Curry and Black Rice

This is an American adaptation of the different spice blends of curry in India. You can jazz it up with black rice.

For the curry spice blend

• 2 Tbs. ground turmeric
• 1 stick cinnamon or 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1 tsp. cardamom seed
• 1/4 tsp. whole cloves
• 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
• 1/2 tsp. fennel seed
• 1/4 tsp. coriander seed
• 1/4 tsp. fenugreek
• 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

For the rice

• 1 cup black rice or basmati rice
• 2 cups water
• 1 tsp. salt, plus more for seasoning
• 2 Tbs. brown butter, divided
• 1 tsp. saffron threads
• 1/4 cup chopped pistachios
• 1 small onion, cut into small dice
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tsp. minced fresh ginger
• 2 tsp. Curry Spice Blend
• 1-1/2 cups chicken stock or vegetable stock
• 1 tsp. sugar
• 1 tsp. molasses
• 2 tsp. freshly squeezed lime juice, plus lime wedges for serving
• 1 large russet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
• 3 carrots, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 rutabaga or turnip (about 10 ounces), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1/2 head cauliflower or broccoli, cut into florets
• 1/2 cup coconut milk
• 1/4 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
• 4 sprigs fresh cilantro

Tip:

To make brown butter, set a heatproof container in an ice bath. Put 1/2 cup butter, cut into small chunks, in a small saucepan over low heat. The butter will melt, foam and start to turn brown and smell nutty in about 8 to 10 minutes. As soon as it hits this fragrance and color, remove the pan from the heat and pour into the container in the ice bath to stop the cooking. Extra brown butter will keep for several days in the fridge.

For the spice blend

Grind all the ingredients in a spice grinder and store, covered, in a cool, dark place. The curry will keep for up to a year, but it loses flavor over time. You can use a Madras curry blend, but it won’t be as dramatic.

For the rice

In a small saucepan, add the rice, the 2 cups water, and a pinch of salt. Cover and bring to a simmer. Decrease the heat to low, and cook, covered, for 15 minutes. When done, stir in 1 Tbs. of the brown butter, the saffron, and the pistachios. Set aside.

In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add the remaining 1 Tbs. brown butter and the onion. Sauté or “sweat” for 2 to 3 minutes, then add the garlic, ginger, the 1 tsp. salt, and the 2 tsp. curry blend. Stir for 1 minute to release the oils in the spices. Add the stock, sugar, molasses, and lime juice and simmer for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the potato, carrots, and rutabaga in a pot of cold water with a pinch of salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to a simmer, cook for 5 minutes, and add the cauliflower. Cook until the vegetables are easily pierced with a knife, another 5 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Add the coconut milk to the curry and then all of the vegetables. Simmer for another few minutes.

To serve, place 1 Tbs. of yogurt in the bottom of each of 4 serving bowls. Spoon some of the rice into the bowl and then arrange vegetables around and on the rice and add some of the curry sauce around the bowl. Garnish with the cilantro leaves and stems and lime wedges. Serve immediately.

Chinese Rose Wine Shrimp Soup

The Chinese name for this soup is chiew tong, or wine soup. The “wine” used is actually a potent sorghum-based spirit (mei kuei lu chiew, or rose wine) flavored with rose petals and rock sugar. A floral gin, such as Hendrick’s, is a suitable substitute.

• 12 oz. jumbo shrimp (21 to 25 per lb.; about 18), shelled, deveined, and rinsed
• 1/4 cup Chinese rose wine (mei kuei lu chiew)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
• 4 cups Chinese Chicken Broth or lower-salt chicken broth
• 1 3-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and smashed
• 2 medium scallions, trimmed and sliced 1/4 inch thick on the diagonal

Put the shrimp in a medium bowl, sprinkle with 1-1/2 Tbs. of the rose wine, 1/2 tsp. salt, and a pinch of pepper and gently toss to coat. Let marinate at room temperature for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the broth, 2 cups cold water, and the ginger in a 4-quart pot. Cover and bring to a boil. Partially uncover, turn the heat down, and maintain a simmer for 10 minutes. Uncover, turn the heat up to high, add the remaining 2-1/2 Tbs. rose wine, and return to a boil. Add the shrimp and the marinade and stir well. Stir in the scallions and cook just until the shrimp turn pink and curl up, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and serve.

Caramel Potatoes

It may seem odd to cook potatoes in caramel, but they’re incredibly delicious, and Christmas dinner at our house wouldn’t be the same without them. The secret to this recipe is letting the potatoes simmer slowly and gently in the caramel, turning them every now and again, to coat them layer by layer.

• 4-1/2 lb. baby potatoes (about 1 inch in diameter)
• Kosher salt
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) salted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

Put the potatoes in a 6- to 8-quart pot, add cool water to cover and 1/4 cup salt. Cover and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to maintain a simmer and cook until the potatoes are just tender when pierced with a fork, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain and transfer to a baking sheet to cool slightly, about 20 minutes. Peel.

Put the sugar in a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat and let it melt, stirring occasionally with a silicone spatula, about 6 minutes; it will be a medium amber color. Stir in the butter and 1/2 tsp. salt until the foam from the butter begins to subside, 1 to 2 minutes. The butter and caramel will be separate at this point.

Add the potatoes and stir once to coat. The caramel will seize and become stringy, but that’s OK. Use the spatula to push any hard bits of caramel to the bottom of the skillet so they can melt again; as the potatoes cook, the caramel will smooth out into a homogenous sauce. Adjust the heat to keep the caramel at a simmer and cook, occasionally turning the potatoes, until the caramel thickens and begins to coat them, about 20 minutes. Gently and constantly turn the potatoes until they are coated layer by layer with the caramel, 5 to 10 minutes more; there will still be a thin layer of caramel in the bottom of the skillet. Remove any potatoes that fall apart as you stir. Serve the potatoes with the caramel.

Miso-Honey-Glazed Turnips

These turnips may not look like much, but one bite will make you say “wow.” The savory miso combined with sweet honey and peppery turnips is pure magic. Web extra: View an audio slideshow to hear the sound of the glaze as it crackles, indicating that it’s time to lower the heat.

• 1 lb. trimmed and peeled turnips, cut into 1-inch wedges (about 2-1/2 cups)
• 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 1 Tbs. white miso
• 1 Tbs. honey
• Kosher salt

Put the turnips in an 8-inch-wide, 3- to 4-quart saucepan and arrange snugly. Add butter, miso, honey, 1/2 tsp. salt, and enough water to just cover the turnips (about 2 cups). Bring to a boil over high heat.

Cook over high heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until most of the liquid has reduced to a syrupy glaze and the turnips are tender, 10 to 12 minutes. (If the glaze is done before the turnips, add about 1/2 cup water and continue to cook. If the turnips are done first, remove them and boil the liquid until syrupy.)

Lower the heat to medium and toss to coat the turnips with the glaze. Season to taste with salt and serve. (The glazed turnips can be kept warm, covered, for about 20 minutes.)

Ember-Roasted Salt Potatoes with Scallion Cream

The salt potato is a wonder to behold. Those who think that they have experienced the true essence of earthy starchiness that is the potato but have not tried this method are in for a surprise. The secret is to not be afraid of the salt. A true salt potato is boiled in water salted in a ratio of 1 pound salt for every 4 pounds of potatoes. Yes, that is a lot of salt. It’s so much salt that it crystallizes on the skins of the cooked potatoes, making them look like something dug up on a paleontological excavation. But, boy, do they taste great. In this recipe the salt content is reduced and the potatoes are then further subjected to the withering heat and smoke of an aromatic fire. The result? An addictive melding of salty, crunchy, fluffy, flaky goodness.

• 1-1/2 lb. new potatoes (red or white)
• 1/4 cup kosher salt
• 1/2 bunch scallions, trimmed
• 1 cup sour cream

Place the potatoes in a pan just large enough to hold them and provide a little headroom. Cover them with cold water and add the salt. Cook over medium heat until the potatoes are fork tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain the potatoes and let them cool slightly.

Set the potatoes in the embers of a dying fire and cover the grill. Cook until the skins are blistered and the potatoes are heated through, about 20 minutes. Remove them from the coals and brush off any ash. Cut them in half and arrange them on a platter.

Combine the scallions and sour cream with a pinch of salt in a food processor. Purée until the mixture is smooth. Check the seasoning and adjust if necessary, but consider the salt content of the potatoes!

Serve the potatoes either warm or at room temperature with the sour cream sauce.

Jellied Cranberry-Orange Sauce

With delicate notes of orange and clove and a bright, sweet-tart cranberry flavor, this ruby-red sauce puts the canned stuff to shame.

• 12 oz. (3 cups) cranberries, rinsed and picked over
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 3 strips orange zest (each 1/2 x 3 inches)
• 1 whole clove

In a 4-quart saucepan, combine the ingredients with 1 cup of water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the berries are mostly broken down and the liquid has thickened slightly, about 10 minutes.

While it’s still hot, force the mixture through a medium-mesh sieve set over a bowl, pressing hard on the solids with a spatula. Be sure to scrape the mixture from the bottom of the strainer. Whisk well and then transfer to a 2-cup bowl or mold. Refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour. Cover with plastic wrap once cool.

To unmold, invert the bowl onto a small serving plate and shake it side to side until the sauce slips onto the plate.

Mushroom-Asparagus Risotto

Baldo rice is a great pick for this simple springtime risotto because it releases enough starch as it cooks to warrant only frequent—not constant—stirring, making this less labor intensive than most risottos.

• 7 cups lower-salt chicken or vegetable broth
• Kosher salt
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1-1/4 cups minced shallots
• 2 tsp. minced garlic
• 7 oz. white, cremini, oyster, or portobello mushrooms, stemmed, cleaned, and coarsely chopped (2 cups)
• 12-1/4 oz. (1-3/4 cups) Turkish baldo rice
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 6 oz. medium asparagus spears (about 10), trimmed and cut on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces (1 cup)
• 1 oz. Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated (1 cup using a rasp grater)
• Freshly ground black pepper

Put the broth in a 3-quart saucepan, add a pinch of salt, and bring to a boil over high heat; lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Heat the oil in a wide, heavy-duty 5- to 6-quart pot over medium-high heat. Add the shallots, lower the heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the mushrooms, raise the heat to high, and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 2 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add the rice, and cook, stirring often, until the rice is lightly toasted, about 3 minutes.

Add the wine and cook, stirring, until most of it is absorbed, about 30 seconds.

Stir about 1-1/2 cups of the simmering broth into the rice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until most of the broth is absorbed, about 1 minute. Add another 1-1/2 cups broth and cook, stirring frequently, until most of it is absorbed, about 3 minutes. Repeat the process once or twice more, tasting the rice every few minutes after the third broth addition until it’s just shy of firm to the bite but without a crunchy center, about 12 minutes after the first addition of broth.

Stir in the asparagus and 1 cup broth. Cover, lower the heat to the low, and cook until the asparagus is crisp-tender and the rice is tender but with some resistance, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and fold in the cheese. Cover and let stand for 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and serve right away, sprinkled with black pepper.

Basic Beans

 Use this basic method to cook any type of dried bean, including cannellini, kidney beans, chickpeas, and more. Try cooked cannellini in smooth White Bean Soup with Shrimp, kidney beans in Roasted Vegetable Minestrone, and chickpeas in Creamy Chickpea Soup with Crisp Chorizo.

• 2 bay leaves
• 2 cloves garlic, smashed
• 2 to 3 sprigs fresh herbs (such as rosemary, thyme, or flat-leaf parsley)
• 1 to 1-1/2 cups dried beans, sorted through and rinsed
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt

Wrap the bay leaves, garlic, and herbs in cheesecloth and tie with twine. Put the beans in a large pot and cover with water by 2 inches (about 2 quarts). Add the herb bundle and the salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a very gentle simmer, cover, and cook until the beans are tender (try biting into one) but not splitting and falling apart, 1 to 2 hours depending on the type and freshness the of beans. Cannellini and kidney beans take about 1 hour and 15 minutes; chickpeas may take up to two hours. (check occasionally to be sure the beans aren’t boiling and are covered with liquid; add water if needed). Discard the herb bundle.

If you're using the beans in soup, reserve some of the cooking liquid for the broth.

Green Beans with Tomatoes & Onions

This green bean ragoût is delicious as a pasta sauce, with cooked shrimp added, if you like. Or serve it with roasted chicken or lamb, or over soft polenta. The crushed red chile flakes make it somewhat spicy, so cut back on them if you have milder tastes.

• 1 can (28 oz.) whole tomatoes
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1 large onion, cut into medium dice (about 1-1/2 cups)
• 1-1/2 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• 6 medium cloves garlic, chopped
• 10 oz. fresh green beans, trimmed and cut into thirds
• 1/2 tsp. crushed red chile flakes
• 2-1/2 cups homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth or water, or a combination; more as needed
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
• 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper; more to taste
• 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Pour the tomatoes and their juices into a sieve set over a bowl. Squeeze the tomatoes to extract the juices and seeds and then crush them with your hands; put the tomatoes in the bowl with the juices and discard the seeds.

Heat the oil in a large, straight-sided sauté pan set over medium heat. Add the onion and salt; cook until the onion is translucent, 3 to 5 min. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and their juices, the green beans, chile flakes, and broth or water. Simmer, stirring frequently and adding more broth or water if necessary, until the beans are fork-tender and fully cooked (taste one to check) and the liquid has the consistency of a stew, 25 to 30 min.

Add the basil and pepper; taste and adjust the seasonings. Serve sprinkled with the grated cheese and parsley.

Chicken Soup with Lime and Hominy

This is a quick and easy version of sopa de lima, a comforting yet refreshing Yucatan chicken soup made tangy with fresh lime juice. Tasty garnishes include fried tortilla strips (or tortilla chips), diced avocado, and fresh cilantro.

• 12 oz. boneless, skinless chicken breasts
• 1 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 1 small white onion (8 oz.), chopped
• 4 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 1 small jalapeño, minced
• 1 quart lower-salt chicken broth
• 1 15-oz. can hominy, drained
• 1 tsp. dried Mexican oregano, crumbled if the leaves are large
• 4 to 5 Tbs. fresh lime juice
• Kosher salt and ground black pepper
• 2-1/2 oz. cotija or feta cheese, cut into 1/4-inch cubes (1/2 cup)

Cut each chicken breast crosswise into 1-1/2-inch-wide pieces.


Heat the oil in a 6-quart pot over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and jalapeño and cook, stirring often, until fragrant, about 45 seconds. Add the broth, hominy, oregano, and chicken. Raise the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and simmer gently, stirring occasionally and adjusting the heat as needed to maintain a simmer, until the chicken is cooked through, about 10 minutes.


Transfer the chicken to a plate. Using two forks, shred the meat into bite-size pieces and return to the pan. Bring the soup back to a simmer over medium heat, stir in the lime juice, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls, top with the cheese, and serve immediately.

Eggplant with Fragrant Spices & Herbs (Bhartha)

This is a delicious way that Indian and Pakistani cooks prepare roasted or grilled eggplant, and it tastes best made a day or two ahead. It's good as a light lunch, served hot or cold with rice pilaf and a bowl of yogurt, or as a side dish with pita triangles. You can even use it in sandwiches. 

• 2 medium globe eggplant (about 1-1/4 lb. each)
• 2 tsp. ground coriander
• 2 tsp. ground cumin
• 1 tsp. turmeric
• 1/2 tsp. cayenne, or to taste
• Salt to taste
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil
• 2 large onions, chopped (to yield 2 cups)
• 2 tsp. minced garlic
• 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced
• 1 small fresh green chile, such as jalapeño, cored, seeded, and minced
• 2 medium tomatoes, chopped
• 1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• Fresh lemon juice
• Fresh cilantro leaves for garnish

Light a grill fire. Grill the eggplant over the open fire or gas flame, turning them frequently, until the skins are black and parched and the flesh feels soft when pierced with a fork, about 18 minutes. (Alternatively, prick the eggplant in several places and roast on a foil-lined baking sheet in a 350°F oven until soft, turning two or three times, about 1 hour.) When the eggplant are cool enough to handle, peel the charred skin and put them in a colander to drain. Squeeze the eggplant gently to get rid of the extra moisture and chop the pulp. Set aside. In a small bowl, combine the coriander, cumin, turmeric, cayenne, and a little salt; set aside.

Heat the oil in a skillet and fry the onion over medium-high heat until golden brown, about 30 minutes. Add the garlic, ginger, and fresh chile and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant. Add the spice mixture and cook, stirring a few seconds until fragrant. Add the tomatoes and cook over medium heat until the tomatoes are soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in the eggplant pulp and the chopped cilantro. Cook, stirring often, until all the liquid in the pan evaporates and the oil begins to separate and forms a glaze over the mixture, about 20 minutes. Taste and add salt if needed. Serve in a bowl sprinkled with more cilantro leaves.

Oranges in Cardamom Syrup with Honey Whipped Cream

With just five ingredients, this simple dessert comes together in no time.

• 4 large navel oranges, cut into segments 
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar 
• 1/4 tsp. ground cardamom 
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 2 tsp. honey

Drain the orange segments in a strainer set over a medium bowl. Set the segments and juice aside. 

Put the sugar in a small heavy-duty saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring often, until melted and light amber in color, 3 to 5 minutes. Take the pan off the heat and whisk in the orange juice. The mixture will bubble and clump; whisk until smooth again. Stir in the cardamom.

Put the orange segments in the juice bowl and add the syrup. Toss well. 

In a large bowl, whisk 1 Tbs. of the cream with the honey until smooth. Add the remaining cream and beat with an electric hand mixer on high speed until soft peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes. 

Divide the oranges and syrup among serving bowls. Top with the whipped cream. 

Linguine with Clams, Sweet Potato, and Country Ham

Bright and comforting, this brothy pasta dish combines the down-home flavors of sweet potatoes and country ham with the familiar Italian duo of linguine and clams. Elegant in appearance and taste, it comes together quickly for an impressive entrée or pasta course.

• Kosher salt
• 8 oz. dried linguine
• 2 tsp. canola or grapeseed oil; more as needed
• 4 oz. country ham (uncooked or cooked), preferably with some fat, cut into 2 x 1/4-inch strips (about 1 cup)
• 2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
• 2 cups dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc
• 1 large sweet potato (about 12 oz.), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 2 cups)
• 24 littleneck clams, well scrubbed
• 2 loosely packed cups fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves (from a 3-oz. bunch)
• 4 lemon wedges (optional)

Bring a 6- to 8-quart pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions until al dente. Drain in a colander.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a 6- to 8-quart Dutch oven (or other heavy-duty pot) over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Scatter the country ham in the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pieces are just beginning to brown and have rendered some fat, 3 to 4 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer half of the ham to paper towels to drain; set aside. If the pot appears dry, add another tsp. of oil.

Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until the garlic is fragrant but not browned, about 30 seconds. Add the wine and 2 cups of water, cover, and bring to a boil. Add the sweet potato and return to a vigorous boil. Cover and continue to cook until the potato is soft at the edges but still firm in the center, about 5 minutes.

Add the clams, stir to distribute evenly, cover the pot, and continue to cook, stirring once or twice, until the clams have opened, 5 to 8 minutes (discard any that don’t open).

Divide the cooked linguine among 4 pasta bowls, and top with half of the parsley leaves. Divide the clams, sweet potato, and broth evenly among the bowls. Garnish with the remaining parsley, the reserved country ham, and a lemon wedge (if using).