Showing posts with label Sauces & Seasonings. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sauces & Seasonings. Show all posts

Thursday, November 14, 2013

Fresh Cranberry Relish

  • 12 oz. (3 cups) fresh or frozen cranberries, picked through and rinsed
  • 1/2 cup granulated sugar
  • 1/4 cup rice vinegar
  • 1 Tbs. finely grated orange zest

Combine the cranberries, sugar, vinegar, and orange zest in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Transfer to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate at least 1 hour to develop the flavors.

Jellied Cranberry-Orange Sauce

With delicate notes of orange and clove and a bright, sweet-tart cranberry flavor, this ruby-red sauce puts the canned stuff to shame.
  • 12 oz. (3 cups) cranberries, rinsed and picked over
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 3 strips orange zest (each 1/2 x 3 inches)
  • 1 whole clove

In a 4-quart saucepan, combine the ingredients with 1 cup of water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the berries are mostly broken down and the liquid has thickened slightly, about 10 minutes.

While it’s still hot, force the mixture through a medium-mesh sieve set over a bowl, pressing hard on the solids with a spatula. Be sure to scrape the mixture from the bottom of the strainer. Whisk well and then transfer to a 2-cup bowl or mold. Refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour. Cover with plastic wrap once cool.

To unmold, invert the bowl onto a small serving plate and shake it side to side until the sauce slips onto the plate.

Creamy Tomatillo Sauce

The addition of heavy cream or crème fraîche qualifies enchiladas made with this sauce as enchiladas suizas (Swiss-style enchiladas).
  • 1 lb. fresh tomatillos, husks and stems removed, rinsed
  • 2 or 3 fresh serrano chiles, cored and seeded, or 1 canned chipotle pepper, seeded
  • 4 slices white onion, each 1/4 inch thick
  • 3 cloves garlic
  • 2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro
  • 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
  • 3 cups chicken broth
  • 3/4 cup crème fraîche or heavy cream
  • 3/4 tsp. salt; more to taste

Position a rack as close to the broiler as possible and heat the broiler. Arrange the tomatillos, fresh chiles (if using), onion slices, and garlic in a small, shallow baking pan. Broil, turning to ensure even cooking, until the tomatillos are soft and slightly blackened, about 10 minutes. Transfer the broiled ingredients to a blender and add the cilantro (if you’re using a canned chipotle, add it now, too). Blend until smooth.

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the tomatillo mixture and cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add 2 cups of the broth and simmer until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 20 minutes. Taste the sauce. It should be a little tart, but it shouldn’t make your mouth pucker. If it’s too tart, add more broth and simmer until the sauce thickens again. Remove from the heat and whisk in the crème fraîche or heavy cream and the salt. Let cool slightly before making the enchiladas.

Homemade Crema (Mexican Sour Cream)

Crema is the Mexican version of French crème fraîche. Both are slightly soured and thickened cream, milder and less thick than American sour cream, with crema being the thinnest. The recipe for Lime Chicken with Poblano Sour Cream will have a more authentic touch if made with crema. You can buy crema in Mexican markets or even in some supermarkets, but it’s easy to make it yourself, and the result has a smoother flavor than that of the commercially prepared version.
Use crema as you would sour cream, dolloping or drizzling it on soups, tacos, potatoes, or anything else that needs a little tang. Start with pasteurized cream if you can find it—it makes a richer, thicker crema than ultrapasteurized cream does.
  • 1 cup heavy cream (pasteurized or ultrapasteurized)
  • 1 Tbs. buttermilk (with active cultures)

In a small saucepan, warm the cream over medium-low heat to about 95ºF, just enough to take off the chill. If it goes over 100ºF, let it cool before continuing.

Stir in the buttermilk and transfer to a clean glass jar. Set the lid loosely on top of the jar—don’t tighten—and let sit in a warm spot, such as near the stove or on top of the fridge, until the cream starts to thicken, 18 to 24 hours. Stir, tighten the lid, and refrigerate until the cream is thicker and thoroughly chilled, 12 to 24 hours more. Stir well before using. The crema should have a thick but pourable consistency.

Maple-Tangerine Cranberry Sauce

The tartness of fresh cranberries is tempered by the sweet counterpoint of maple syrup in this twist on a classic.
  • 2 cups strained fresh tangerine juice (5 to 6 tangerines)
  • 12 oz. fresh or frozen cranberries (3 cups)
  • 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
  • 1/2 cup pure maple syrup, preferably grade B
  • 3-inch cinnamon stick
  • 1 tsp. finely grated tangerine zest
  • Pinch kosher salt

In a 10-inch skillet combine all the ingredients. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat and then reduce to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has thickened somewhat and looks slightly syrupy, about 30 minutes. Remove the cinnamon stick and let the cranberry sauce cool in the pan—it will thicken more as it cools. Serve at room temperature.

Chimichurri Sauce

This sauce—my version of the classic Argentine condiment—can be made up to two days in advance and refrigerated in a well-sealed container.
  • 1 cup packed flat-leaf parsley leaves (from 1 large bunch)
  • 1 cup packed fresh mint leaves (from 1 large bunch)
  • 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/4 cup fresh lime juice (from 1-1/2 limes)
  • 2 Tbs. coarsely chopped garlic (from 4 to 5 medium cloves)
  • 1 tsp. coarsely chopped jalapeño (from 1/4 medium chile)
  • 1 tsp. ground cumin
  • 1 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste

Put the parsley, mint, olive oil, lime juice, garlic, jalapeño, cumin, and salt in a food processor. Process, stopping to scrape the bowl as often as needed, until puréed into a thick sauce. Add more salt to taste if needed and refrigerate until ready to use.

Black Olive & Mint Pesto

  • 1-1/4 cups pitted Kalamata olives
  • 3 Tbs. olive oil
  • 2 Tbs. lightly packed choppped fresh mint
  • 1 shallot, minced
  • 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the olives, olive oil, mint, shallot, and lemon juice in a food processor. Process, stopping to scrape the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula after a couple of seconds, until the mixture is smooth. Season the pesto to taste with lemon juice, salt, and pepper.

Chimichurri Sauce for Beef Tenderloin

Based on an Argentine sauce for grilled meats, this zingy condiment, originally developed to accompany a Sear-Roasted Beef Tenderloin, brightens up any wintertime roast.
  • 1/4 cup coarsely chopped shallot
  • 2 Tbs. sherry vinegar; more as needed
  • Kosher salt
  • 1 cup (1 oz.) packed fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • 1 cup (1 oz.) packed fresh basil
  • 1 Tbs. fresh oregano
  • 2 small cloves garlic, lightly crushed
  • 1 tsp. whole black peppercorns, cracked; more, freshly ground
  • 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Put the shallot, vinegar, and 1/2 tsp. salt in a small bowl and let sit for about 30 minutes. Transfer to a food processor, add the parsley, basil, oregano, garlic, and peppercorns and pulse a few times into a coarse purée. While pulsing, add the oil through the feed tube and pulse until combined. Season to taste with salt, freshly ground black pepper, or vinegar.

Classic Pico de Gallo

Pico de gallo is a zesty Mexican salsa made with fresh tomatoes, onions, and chiles.
  • 4 cups seeded and diced fresh tomatoes (3 large tomatoes)
  • 1 cup small-diced white or sweet onion (1 medium onion)
  • 1/3 cup fresh lime juice
  • 2 to 3 serrano chiles, stemmed and finely chopped
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
  • Kosher salt

Combine the tomatoes, onion, lime juice, serranos, cilantro, and 2 tsp. salt in a large bowl. Mix well, cover, and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour. Season to taste with more salt if necessary. If not using right away, refrigerate for up to 3 days. Strain before using.

Creamy Tomatillo Sauce

The addition of heavy cream or crème fraîche qualifies enchiladas made with this sauce as enchiladas suizas (Swiss-style enchiladas).
  • 1 lb. fresh tomatillos, husks and stems removed, rinsed
  • 2 or 3 fresh serrano chiles, cored and seeded, or 1 canned chipotle pepper, seeded
  • 4 slices white onion, each 1/4 inch thick
  • 3 cloves garlic
  • 2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro
  • 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
  • 3 cups chicken broth
  • 3/4 cup crème fraîche or heavy cream
  • 3/4 tsp. salt; more to taste

Position a rack as close to the broiler as possible and heat the broiler. Arrange the tomatillos, fresh chiles (if using), onion slices, and garlic in a small, shallow baking pan. Broil, turning to ensure even cooking, until the tomatillos are soft and slightly blackened, about 10 minutes. Transfer the broiled ingredients to a blender and add the cilantro (if you’re using a canned chipotle, add it now, too). Blend until smooth.

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the tomatillo mixture and cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add 2 cups of the broth and simmer until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 20 minutes. Taste the sauce. It should be a little tart, but it shouldn’t make your mouth pucker. If it’s too tart, add more broth and simmer until the sauce thickens again. Remove from the heat and whisk in the crème fraîche or heavy cream and the salt. Let cool slightly before making the enchiladas.

Lemon-Dill Beurre Blanc

Beurre blanc is a classic French butter sauce, here enlivened with the addition of fresh dill. It's delicious over any kind of sear-roasted or salt-baked fish. The key to keeping the sauce emulsified is to use cold butter and whisk it in a bit at a time.
  • 1 cup dry white wine (like Chardonnay)
  • 1 large shallot, finely diced (about 1/3 cup)
  • 4 oz. (1/2 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
  • 3 Tbs. chopped fresh dill
  • 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
  • 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice, more to taste
  • Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cook the wine and shallot in a 3-quart saucepan over high heat, stirring occasionally, until the wine almost evaporates and looks glazy, 5 to 8 minutes.


Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the butter a couple of cubes at a time until melted and the sauce is thick and creamy; briefly return the pan to low heat if the butter is slow to melt.


Off the heat, stir in the dill, lemon zest, lemon juice, red pepper flakes, 1/2 tsp. salt, and several grinds of pepper. Season to taste with more lemon juice, salt, and pepper.

Red Chile Sauce

You’ll only need about 2 cups of this sauce to make the enchiladas, but any leftover sauce can be used to coat baked chicken, to flavor rice, or to mix into some mayonnaise for a tasty sandwich spread. The sauce can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to three days or frozen for up to a month.
  • 2-1/2 oz. dried ancho chiles (about 4 large, 5 medium, or 6 small)
  • 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
  • 1 small white onion, chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1/4 cup sesame seeds
  • 1/2 cup drained canned tomatoes, seeded
  • 1 tsp. dried oregano
  • 1/4 tsp. ground cumin
  • 3 cups mild chicken broth or water
  • 1 tsp. cider vinegar
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 3/4 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste

Heat a dry skillet over medium heat. Add the dried chiles one at a time and cook them for 20 to 30 seconds on each side, pressing down with a spatula, until soft, pliable, and slightly redder in spots. Don’t let the chiles burn; you’ll end up with a bitter sauce. Rinse the chiles, remove the stems, veins, and seeds, and tear each one into two or three pieces. Put them in a small saucepan with enough water to cover and cook at a very gentle simmer until well softened, about 20 min.

Meanwhile, in a saucepan or large skillet, heat 1 Tbs. of the vegetable oil, add the chopped onion, and sauté over medium-high heat until the edges of the onion are deeply browned, about 10 min. Add the garlic; cook for another 1 minute, and set the pan aside.

At the same time, toast the sesame seeds in a dry skillet set over moderately low heat until they’re a deep golden brown. Stir the seeds frequently to keep them from burning and pour them onto a plate to cool as soon as they’re fully toasted.

Drain the chiles (discard the cooking water) and put them in a blender. Add the sautéed onion and garlic, sesame seeds, tomatoes, oregano, cumin, and 1 cup of the broth or water. Blend until completely smooth, about 2 minutes. You should have a medium thick paste; if it’s too thick, thin it with a little broth or water.

Wipe clean and reheat the skillet you used to sauté the onions. Add the remaining 1 Tbs. vegetable oil. When the oil is hot, add the paste from the blender. Cook the paste for 3 min., stirring constantly with a whisk or wooden spoon. Stir in the remaining broth, vinegar, bay leaves, and salt. Bring to a simmer and cook until the sauce begins to thicken, about 20 min. Discard the bay leaves. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt if needed. The sauce should still be a bit thin; it will thicken further when the enchiladas are cooked. Let cool slightly before making the enchiladas.

Avocado Salsa

Put a few generous spoonfuls of this salsa into soup bowls and then ladle Yellow Tomato Gazpacho over it.
  • 2 small Haas avocados, cut into small dice
  • 1 small hot red chile, seeded and minced
  • 1 small red onion, cut into small dice
  • 1 red heirloom slicing tomato, seeded and diced
  • 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh cilantro
  • Juice of 1 lime
  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper

In a medium bowl, stir together the avocado, chile, onion, tomato, cilantro, lime juice, olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 20 minutes and up to 3 hours before serving.

Creamy Lemon and Herb Sauce

Pulverizing the herbs makes their flavor stronger, a good thing for a cold sauce where flavors can be muted.
  • 1/2 cup (1/2 oz.) coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
  • 1/2 cup (1/2 oz.) coarsely chopped fresh dill
  • 3 whole scallions, sliced
  • 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice; more as needed
  • 8 oz. (1 cup) sour cream or crème fraÎche

Pulse the cilantro, dill, scallions, lemon zest, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. of pepper in a food processor until finely chopped. With the motor running, pour the olive oil and lemon juice through the feed tube and pulse until the mixture has a pesto-like consistency. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in the sour cream. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to let the flavors meld. Season to taste with more salt, pepper, or lemon juice.

Quick Tomato Sauce

  • 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 medium carrot, finely chopped
  • 1 medium celery stalk, finely chopped
  • 1/2 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • 5 large basil leaves, chopped
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine
  • 1 28-oz. can plus 1 14-oz. can plum tomatoes with juice, coarsely chopped

In a 3- or 4-qt. saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the carrot, celery, onion, parsley, basil, a generous pinch of salt, and a couple grinds of pepper. Cook until the vegetables are pale gold, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the wine and cook until it evaporates, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes with their juices, stir well, and simmer gently to blend the flavors and reduce the sauce to about 4-1/2 cups, 15 to 20 minutes (adjust the heat as necessary to maintain a gentle simmer). Season to taste with salt and pepper. If you want a smoother texture, pass the sauce through a food mill or purée in a food processor

Creamy Chile Sauce

Chipotle chiles pack some heat, but it’s tamed by sour cream.
  • 2 Tbs. olive oil
  • 1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced
  • 1/3 cup diced fresh poblano chile
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 large clove garlic, smashed and peeled
  • 1 tsp. ground cumin
  • 1/2 tsp. ground coriander
  • 1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
  • 1 to 2 tsp. minced chipotle in adobo
  • 1 Tbs. fresh lime juice
  • 3/4 cup sour cream or crème fraîche

Heat the oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, poblano, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to sizzle, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn the heat down to low, add the garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is golden, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the cumin, coriander, and cinnamon and cook, stirring, for another 30 seconds.

Transfer the mixture to a food processor and let cool for a few minutes. Add the chipotle and process until smooth.

Transfer to a small bowl and stir in the lime juice and sour cream. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to let the flavors meld. Season to taste with more salt, pepper, or lime juice.

Cornichon-Caper Herb Sauce

Capers and cornichons add briny flavor to this pesto-like sauce.
  • 2 cups (2 oz.) packed fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • 1/2 cup (1/2 oz.) packed fresh basil
  • 3 whole scallions, sliced
  • 1 small clove garlic, lightly crushed
  • 1 tsp. finely grated lime zest
  • Kosher salt
  • 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/4 cup cornichons, coarsely chopped
  • 1 Tbs. drained capers, rinsed
  • 1 Tbs. fresh lime juice; more as needed
  • Few drops hot sauce, such as Sriracha

Pulse the parsley, basil, scallions, garlic, zest, and 3/4 tsp. salt in a food processor until finely chopped.

With the motor running, add the oil through the feed tube and process until well blended. Add the cornichons, capers, lime juice, and hot sauce and pulse until finely chopped. Season to taste with more salt, lime juice, or hot sauce.

Orange-Maple Cranberry Sauce

Pure maple syrup makes all the difference here, so avoid artificially flavored syrup. Cooking the cranberries just until they burst prevents the sauce from becoming too thick.
  • 1 12-oz. package fresh or frozen cranberries (about 3 cups), picked over and rinsed
  • 1 cup pure maple syrup
  • 1 medium orange, finely grated to yield 1 tsp. zest, squeezed to yield 1/3 cup juice

Combine the cranberries, maple syrup, and orange juice in a 3-quart saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer, stirring occasionally, just until the cranberries burst, about 5 minutes.

Remove from the heat, stir in the zest, and let cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. The sauce will thicken as it cools.

Apple Butter

We often make a double batch of this apple butter and can it. Without canning, it should be stored in the refrigerator, where it will last a few weeks.
  • 4-1/2 lb. McIntosh or Rome apples, peeled, cored, and chopped (about 12 cups)
  • 2 Tbs. lemon juice
  • 3/4 tsp. kosher salt
  • 1-1/4 cups granulated sugar
  • 1-1/2 tsp. apple cider vinegar (with 5% acidity, if canning)
  • 1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon

In a large, heavy-based saucepan, combine the apples, lemon juice, and salt. Boil, stirring often, until the fruit softens to a mash, about 30 minutes. Add the sugar, vinegar, and cinnamon. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pan, until the fruit reduces to a thick purée, about 2-1/2 hours.

Cranberry-Orange Relish with Ginger

This ginger-tinged relish is more tart than sweet -- a perfect complement to the holiday bird. You can make it the day ahead, if you like.
  • One 12-oz. package fresh cranberries, picked over and stemmed
  • 1 small navel orange, including the peel, cut into eighths
  • A generous 1/3 cup roughly chopped crystallized ginger
  • 1 Tbs. granulated sugar
  • 1/4 tsp. kosher salt

In a food processor, combine the cranberries, orange, crystallized ginger, sugar, and salt. Process until coarsely ground, stopping once or twice to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer to a serving bowl, cover, and refrigerate until ready to serve.