Spiced Quince and Apple Sauce

If you happen to see bumpy yellow quinces in the fall at your supermarket or farmer's market, snatch them up; they make a wonderfully fragrant addition to plain old applesauce, and turn it a beautiful tawny-pink color. Vanilla bean and star anise lend even more complexity.

• 2 medium quinces, peeled, quartered, and cored
• 1/4 cup sugar, plus more to taste
• 4 large sweet apples, such as Jonagold, peeled, quartered, and cored
• One 3-inch cinnamon stick
• 1/2 vanilla bean, split
• 1/2 star anise

Put the quinces, 1/4 cup sugar, and 1 cup water in a heavy medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, until the quinces turn pink and are beginning to soften, about an hour.

Add the apples, cinnamon stick, vanilla bean, and star anise to the pan and continue simmering, covered and stirring occasionally, for another 45 minutes, or until all the fruit is very tender. Taste for sweetness and add a bit more sugar if needed.

Remove from the heat and let cool, then fish out the spices and discard. Mash with a potato masher or put through a food mill using  a medium disk. Serve slightly warm or cold.

Wild Rice, Spiced Pecan, Apple & Sourdough Bread Stuffing

This recipe makes enough stuffing to fill the turkey and to fill an extra baking dish.

• 1-lb. loaf sourdough or peasant-style bread
• 2 cups raw wild rice
• 2 tsp. plus 1 Tbs. salt
• 3 Tbs. olive oil
• 2 medium (4-oz.) onions, cut into small dice (1-1/2 cups)
• 4 large ribs celery, cut into small dice (1-1/2 cups)
• 2 small cloves garlic, minced
• 1-1/2 Tbs. chopped fresh sage
• 1-1/2 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme
• 1-1/2 tsp. white pepper
• 3 Granny Smith apples
• 2 Tbs. butter
• 1 Tbs. sugar
• 1-2/3 cups apple cider
• 4 large eggs
• 3/4 cup homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth
• 1/2 recipe Spiced Pecans, coarsely chopped
• (see Spiced Pecans)

Two days ahead:

Trim the crust from the bread and cut the remainder into 1/2-inch dice to get 6 cups. Spread the bread on baking sheets to dry overnight.

One day ahead:

In a large pot, combine the wild rice, 6 cups water, and 2 tsp. salt. Bring to a boil, reduce to a low simmer, cover, and cook until tender and the kernels start to open, 50 to 55 minutes. Remove from the heat, drain if necessary, and spread out to cool on a baking sheet.

In a large sauté pan, heat 2 Tbs. oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions, sauté 4 minutes; add the celery and garlic and sauté until the onions are translucent, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the herbs, pepper, and 1 Tbs. salt. Cool in a shallow dish.

Meanwhile, peel, core, and dice the apples. Return the pan to the heat and add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil and 2 Tbs. butter. When the butter sizzles, add the apples and sprinkle in the sugar. Sauté until the apples begin to brown, 5 to 8 minutes. Add 2/3 cup of the cider (reserve the rest), scrape up any brown bits, and let the cider reduce for 1 min. Pour the apples and liquid into the onion mixture and let cool completely.

In a large bowl, combine the rice, bread, and apple mixture. Refrigerate.

On the day of serving:

Bring the stuffing to room temperature. Mix the eggs, 1 cup cider, and chicken broth. Fold the liquid into the stuffing mixture and mix well. It will be fairly wet. Fold in the spiced pecans. Follow the directions for stuffing the turkey and baking the extra stuffing in a pan in the Roasted Turkey recipe.

Braised Chicken Legs with Cider, Apples & Mustard

When chicken legs are simmered slowly, the meat becomes
wonderfully tender and falls off the bone; at the same time, it develops a
rich, deep flavor. Use dry hard cider (which is alcoholic) for this recipe, not fresh sweet cider.

• 4 bone-in, skin-on medium chicken thighs (1-1/2 to 1-3/4 lb.)
• 4 chicken drumsticks (1-1/4 to 1-1/2 lb.)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 2 medium apples such as Rome, Spy, or Mutsu, peeled, cored, and cut into sixths
• 2 cups dry hard apple cider
• 1/4 cup Dijon mustard
• 3 large marjoram sprigs
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh marjoram

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350ºF.

Season the chicken pieces generously with salt and pepper. In a straight-sided 10- or 11-inch ovenproof sauté pan with a lid, heat the oil over mediumhigh heat until very hot. Arrange the chicken pieces skin side down in the pan (it’ll be crowded), cover with a splatter screen, if you have one, and cook until deeply browned, about 5 minutes. Turn the pieces over and cook until the other sides are deeply browned, 3 to 5 minutes more. Transfer to a plate. Pour out and discard all but 1 Tbs. of the fat from the pan. Set the pan aside to cool for a few minutes.

Return the pan to medium-high heat, add the apple pieces, and cook, turning once, until both cut sides are golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a different plate. Carefully pour the cider into the pan and bring to a boil, scraping the browned bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon.

Whisk the mustard into the cider. Return the chicken to the pan, along with any accumulated juices. Add the marjoram sprigs and cover. Transfer the pan to the oven and braise for 10 minutes. Add the apples and continue to braise until the chicken is fork-tender and the drumstick meat starts to come away from the bone, 35 to 40 minutes more.

With a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken and apples to a large serving dish and keep warm by covering the dish loosely with foil. Discard the marjoram sprigs. Tilt the sauté pan and skim off as much fat as possible from the sauce. Bring the sauce to a boil over medium-high heat and whisk in the cream. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the sauce is slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over the chicken, sprinkle with the chopped marjoram, and serve.

Sausage, Potato & Apple Sauté

• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 large yellow onion, cut into medium dice (about 2 cups)
• 1 lb. sweet Italian sausage (bulk sausage or links with casings removed)
• 1-1/2 lb. russet potatoes
• 1 large apple
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. tomato ketchup
• 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
• 1/2 tsp. dried thyme leaves
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Heat 1 Tbs. of the oil over medium-high heat in an 11- to 12-inch nonstick skillet. When the oil is hot, add the onion and sausage and cook, stirring and breaking up the sausage with the side of a wooden spoon, until the sausage is golden brown and broken into small (1/2-inch) pieces, 8 to 10  minutes. While the sausage and onion cook, peel and cut the potatoes and apple into 1/2-inch dice. Scrape the cooked sausage and onions into a colander to drain briefly before transferring to a medium bowl. Add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil and then the potatoes and apple to the skillet; season with 1 tsp. salt and several grinds pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until the potatoes and apple are golden brown and the potatoes are tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Meanwhile, mix the ketchup, mustard, thyme, parsley, and 2 Tbs. water in a small bowl. Return the sausage and onions to the skillet and stir in the ketchup mixture. Cook, stirring frequently, until the hash has browned nicely, about another 5 minutes. Season to taste with more salt and pepper before serving.

Apple Galette with Ginger Glaze

• 1 sheet (about 9 oz.) frozen puff pastry, thawed
• 2 Granny Smith apples, cored and thinly sliced (no more than 1/8 inch thick)
• (see "How to core an apple quickly" )
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
• 2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 2 Tbs. apricot jam
• 1 Tbs. water
• 1-1/2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh ginger
• Pinch salt

Heat the oven to 425°F. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough to a 13-inch square.

Trim off the corners to make a rough circle -- it doesn't need to be perfect.

Slide the dough circle onto a parchment-lined or nonstick baking sheet. Prick the dough all over. Arrange the apples in neat concentric circles, just barely overlapping the slices, leaving about a 1-inch border of pastry. Dot the apples with the butter and sprinkle with the sugar.

Fold the pastry edges up over the apples to make a 1-inch border. Bake until the dough is medium brown at the edges and underneath and the edges of the apples just begin to brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Slide onto a cooling rack.

As the galette cools, put the jam, water, ginger, and salt in a small saucepan over low heat (or in a glass bowl in the microwave) and heat gently until it just starts to bubble. Stir to blend and remove from the heat. Strain the jam glaze to remove the ginger pieces, or just push the ginger aside. With a pastry brush or a small spoon, lightly glaze the apples and the pastry edge. Serve the galette hot or warm.

Apple and Cheddar Cake

Grated cheddar cheese melts into this cake and gives it a wonderfully tangy flavor and richness. Diced pear may be substituted for the apple if you like. Either way, it tastes great with maple syrup–sweetened whipped cream on the side.

• 3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup yellow cornmeal
• 1-1/2 tsp. baking powder
• 1/4 tsp. table salt
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 2 eggs
• 6 Tbs. milk
• 1 cup grated cheddar cheese
• 1 large tart apple, such as a Granny Smith, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch dice

Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Grease a 9-inch round cake pan and dust with flour. Combine the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl.

Combine the butter and sugar in a large mixing bowl and cream with an electric mixer on medium-high speed until fluffy, about 3 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl once or twice as necessary. With the mixer on medium-low speed, add the eggs, one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition.

Turn the mixer to low speed and add 1/2 of the flour mixture. Stir in the milk. Stir in the remaining flour mixture until just combined. Stir in the cheddar cheese and apple.

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top with a rubber spatula. Bake until the cake is golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 35 minutes. Let the cake cool in the pan for about 10 minutes, invert it onto a wire rack, and then turn it right side up on a rack to cool completely.

Store uneaten cake in a cake keeper or wrap in plastic and store at room temperature for up to 2 days.

Apple Butter

We often make a double batch of this apple butter and can it. Without canning, it should be stored in the refrigerator, where it will last a few weeks.

• 4-1/2 lb. McIntosh or Rome apples, peeled, cored, and chopped (about 12 cups)
• 2 Tbs. lemon juice
• 3/4 tsp. kosher salt
• 1-1/4 cups granulated sugar
• 1-1/2 tsp. apple cider vinegar (with 5% acidity, if canning)
• 1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon

In a large, heavy-based saucepan, combine the apples, lemon juice, and salt. Boil, stirring often, until the fruit softens to a mash, about 30 minutes. Add the sugar, vinegar, and cinnamon. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pan, until the fruit reduces to a thick purée, about 2-1/2 hours.

Pork Tenderloin with Apples

Turn your Sunday dinner table into the corner table at a French bistro with a meal that incorporates juicy pork tenderloin and a few French cuisine staples like fresh butter, cream, shallots, apples, and thyme.  

• 2 medium Granny Smith apples
• 1/2 medium lemon
• 7 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 2 pork tenderloins (about 1  lb. each), trimmed and cut in half crosswise
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 large shallots, finely minced
• 1/4 cup Calvados or Cognac
• 1/4 cup apple cider
• 1/2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
• 1/3 cup heavy cream

Set a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Peel, core, and cut each apple into eight wedges, rubbing the cut edges with the cut side of the lemon half as you go, and then juice the lemon half into a small bowl and set aside. In a 10-inch skillet, melt 2 Tbs. of the butter with the sugar over medium-high heat. Add the apple wedges and cook, turning halfway, until soft and a rich amber color, about 8 min. (reduce the heat to medium if they start to burn). Set aside and keep warm.

Pat the tenderloins dry with paper towels and season generously with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a 12-inch ovenproof skillet (don’t use nonstick) over medium-high heat until very hot. Sear the pork on all sides until nicely browned, about 5 min. total. Put the skillet in the oven and roast until an instant- read thermometer inserted in the center of the pork registers 140° to 145°F, 10 to 15 min. Transfer to a warm plate (don’t clean the skillet), tent with foil, and let rest for 10 min.

Set the skillet over medium heat and add 2 Tbs. butter. When it melts, add the shallots and cook until soft and translucent but not browned, about 3 min. Remove the pan from the heat and add the Calvados. Return the pan to the stove, raise the heat to medium high, and boil until the Calvados is almost gone, 1 to 2 min. Add the cider and thyme; simmer until the liquid is reduced by about half, 2 to 3 min. Add the cream and cook over very low heat until the sauce is golden and coats the back of a spoon, about 5 min. Cut the remaining 3 Tbs. butter into 1/2-inch cubes and swirl them into the sauce. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and 1/2  tsp. of the reserved lemon juice or to taste. Slice the pork and serve with the warm apples and sauce.

Wild Rice, Spiced Pecan, Apple & Sourdough Bread Stuffing

This recipe makes enough stuffing to fill the turkey and to fill an extra baking dish.

• 1-lb. loaf sourdough or peasant-style bread
• 2 cups raw wild rice
• 2 tsp. plus 1 Tbs. salt
• 3 Tbs. olive oil
• 2 medium (4-oz.) onions, cut into small dice (1-1/2 cups)
• 4 large ribs celery, cut into small dice (1-1/2 cups)
• 2 small cloves garlic, minced
• 1-1/2 Tbs. chopped fresh sage
• 1-1/2 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme
• 1-1/2 tsp. white pepper
• 3 Granny Smith apples
• 2 Tbs. butter
• 1 Tbs. sugar
• 1-2/3 cups apple cider
• 4 large eggs
• 3/4 cup homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth
• 1/2 recipe Spiced Pecans, coarsely chopped
• (see Spiced Pecans)

Two days ahead:

Trim the crust from the bread and cut the remainder into 1/2-inch dice to get 6 cups. Spread the bread on baking sheets to dry overnight.

One day ahead:

In a large pot, combine the wild rice, 6 cups water, and 2 tsp. salt. Bring to a boil, reduce to a low simmer, cover, and cook until tender and the kernels start to open, 50 to 55 minutes. Remove from the heat, drain if necessary, and spread out to cool on a baking sheet.

In a large sauté pan, heat 2 Tbs. oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions, sauté 4 minutes; add the celery and garlic and sauté until the onions are translucent, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the herbs, pepper, and 1 Tbs. salt. Cool in a shallow dish.

Meanwhile, peel, core, and dice the apples. Return the pan to the heat and add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil and 2 Tbs. butter. When the butter sizzles, add the apples and sprinkle in the sugar. Sauté until the apples begin to brown, 5 to 8 minutes. Add 2/3 cup of the cider (reserve the rest), scrape up any brown bits, and let the cider reduce for 1 min. Pour the apples and liquid into the onion mixture and let cool completely.

In a large bowl, combine the rice, bread, and apple mixture. Refrigerate.

On the day of serving:

Bring the stuffing to room temperature. Mix the eggs, 1 cup cider, and chicken broth. Fold the liquid into the stuffing mixture and mix well. It will be fairly wet. Fold in the spiced pecans. Follow the directions for stuffing the turkey and baking the extra stuffing in a pan in the Roasted Turkey recipe.

Curried Parsnip and Apple Soup

Apples that soften when cooked (like Empires, Jonathans, and McIntoshes) make a velvety puréed soup. Curry powder and fresh ginger give the soup a flavor boost, while the chive and apple garnish adds a fresh layer of brightness, calling out the apple flavor.

• 1 lb. (about 3 medium) tart apples that soften easily when cooked, such as Empire, Jonathan, or McIntosh
• 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 large leeks (white and light-green parts only), chopped and well rinsed (about 1-1/2 cups)
• 1 medium yellow onion, chopped (about 1 cup)
• 1-1/2 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
• 1 Tbs. tomato paste
• 2 tsp. finely chopped garlic (2 medium cloves)
• 1 tsp. mild curry powder
• 1/3 cup dry white vermouth, such as Noilly Prat
• 2 large parsnips (9 oz. total), peeled, quartered lengthwise, cored, and chopped (about 2 cups)
• 1 medium (6 oz.) Yukon Gold potato, peeled and chopped into 1/2-inch pieces (about 1 cup)
• 4 cups lower-salt chicken broth
• Kosher salt
• 1/3 cup heavy cream
• Freshly ground white pepper
• 3 Tbs. thinly sliced chives

Cut 1 quarter from one of the apples.Wrap the unpeeled quarter in plastic wrap and reserve. Peel, core, and quarter the rest of the apples. Chop the peeled apples into 1/2-inch pieces and toss with the lemon juice in a medium bowl.

Heat the olive oil in a heavy-duty 4-quart saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the leeks and onion and cook, covered, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until just tender, 6 to 8 minutes.

Stir in the ginger, tomato paste, garlic, and curry powder and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the vermouth and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has almost evaporated, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add the chopped apple, parsnips, and potatoes and stir to coat well. Add the chicken broth and 1-1/2 tsp. salt and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to medium low, partially cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the apples and vegetables are very tender, about 30 minutes.

In a blender, purée the soup in batches until completely smooth. Transfer the soup to a clean 4-quart saucepan, stir in the cream, and season to taste with salt and white pepper. Bring the soup to a simmer over medium heat, stirring often. Cut the reserved apple quarter into small dice. Serve the soup sprinkled with the diced apple and chives.

Apple Brown Betty with Rustic Crumbs

This dessert is best when very fresh, but it’s also quite good reheated the next day for breakfast.

• 12-oz. loaf French or Italian bread
• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter
• 3 lb. tart apples (about 8 medium), peeled, quartered, cored, and cut crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices
• 2 Tbs. lightly packed finely grated lemon zest, preferably grated on a rasp
• 3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1-1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp. ground allspice
• 1/4 tsp. table salt
• 1/3 cup Calvados or 2/3 cup apple cider
• 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 225°F. Remove and discard the crusts from the bread and tear the bread into roughly 1/2-inch pieces for a total of 6 oz. or 5 loosely packed cups. Spread the bread pieces on a large rimmed baking sheet and bake, stirring once or twice, until the bread is completely dry but not browned, about 40 minutes. Set the pan on a rack and let the bread cool completely (it may be toasted three or four days ahead and stored airtight at room temperature in a zip-top bag).

Heat the oven to 375°F. Melt the butter in a large (preferably 12-inch) skillet over medium-low heat. Add the dried bread and cook, stirring occasionally, until the butter is absorbed and some of the bread has turned golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside.

In a large bowl, combine the apples with the lemon zest and juice. In a small bowl, combine the sugar, cinnamon, allspice, and salt. Add the sugar mixture to the apples and toss to combine well. In a liquid measuring cup, combine the Calvados with 1/3 cup water (or the apple cider, if using, without any water) and the vanilla.

Spread a third of the bread in the bottom of a 9-inch square baking pan. Spread half the apple mixture over the bread and drizzle with half of the Calvados or cider mixture. Sprinkle half of the remaining bread over the apples and spread the remaining apples evenly over the bread. Drizzle with the remaining Calvados or cider mixture and sprinkle the last of the bread evenly on top.

Bake until the apples are tender (test with the tip of a paring knife), the juices are bubbly, and the crumb topping is a deep golden brown, about one hour.  Halfway through baking, use a wide metal spatula to press down gently on top of the betty to be sure the apples are bathed with the juices.  Let cool on a rack for about 20 minutes; the betty will settle a bit as it cools.  Serve warm.

Apple Turnovers

When the first few nights turn chilly, all thoughts go to baking—and apples. These turnovers are a classic guaranteed to fill your kitchen with the homey smells of fall. You also use this wonderful, flaky dough to make open-faced rustic tarts called galettes. If you don’t want to make all of the turnovers at once, you can freeze some of the dough, well wrapped. Defrost in the refrigerator before rolling it out.

For the dough:

• 10 oz. (2-1/4 cups) all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. granulated sugar
• 1/2 tsp. table salt
• 6 oz. (12 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces and chilled
• 1/2 cup ice water

For the filling:

• About 3 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• About 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 4 large apples (about 2 lb. total), peeled, halved, and cored; each half quartered lengthwise
• About 1 tsp. ground cinnamon

• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted
• Granulated sugar, for sprinkling

Make the dough.

In a mixing bowl, combine the 10 oz. flour, the 1 tsp. sugar, and the salt. Cut the butter into the flour mixture, using a pastry cutter or your fingers, until the butter bits are pea-size. (You can also use a food processor or a stand mixer, just be sure not to overmix the dough.) Add the water all at once and mix until the dough just comes together. Divide the dough and shape it into two disks.

Cut each disk into quarters. With lightly floured hands, shape each quarter into a flat oval about 3 inches long and 2 inches wide. Cover the ovals with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least half an hour.

Assemble and bake the turnovers:

Line two baking sheets with kitchen parchment. Heat the oven to 400°F. Flour a smooth work surface well. With a rolling pin, roll each piece of dough into a larger oval, approximately 10 inches long and 6 inches wide. The dough should be almost paper-thin. Brush off any excess flour.

Spoon 1 tsp. flour and 1 tsp. sugar on one half of each oval. Reassemble half an apple on each pile of flour and sugar. Sprinkle 2 tsp. sugar and a pinch of cinnamon over the apple.

Fold the other half of the oval over the apples so that it falls just shy of the edge of the bottom half. Gently mold the dough around the apple to eliminate any trapped air. Fold the edge of the bottom half up over the edge of the top half and press to seal. Flute the edge as you would a pie. Brush the top of the turnovers with the melted butter and sprinkle with additional sugar. Bake until golden brown, 45 to 50 minutes. Use a spatula to move the turnovers from the baking sheet to a cooling rack. These are best served warm but are also good at room temperature.

Apple and Escarole Salad with Blue Cheese and Hazelnuts

Salads are the ideal place to showcase apple varieties that are best enjoyed raw. Here, piquant blue cheese, toasty nuts, and slightly bitter escarole are delicious counterpoints to sweet, juicy apples. Though you could use peeled apples, their colorful skin makes them pop visually.

• 2 Tbs. apple cider vinegar
• 1 Tbs. minced shallot
• 1 tsp. Dijon mustard
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 oz. whole shelled hazelnuts (about 1/2 cup), toasted and skinned
• 1 lb. (about 2 large) sweet apples best enjoyed raw (such as Fujis or Galas), quartered, cored, and sliced into thin wedges
• 1 lb. escarole, torn or cut into bite-size pieces (about 6 cups)
• 3 oz. blue cheese, crumbled (about 3/4 cup)
• 1/2 small red onion, very thinly sliced length-wise (about 1/2 cup)
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, shallot, mustard, and 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper. Whisk in the oil in a slow and steady stream until incorporated.

Put the nuts in a zip-top bag, force out the air, seal the bag, and break the nuts with a meat pounder or a heavy skillet into uneven pieces.

In a large bowl, toss the apples with 1 Tbs. of the dressing. Add the escarole, cheese, onion, parsley, and hazelnuts. Toss with the remaining dressing and serve.

Butternut Squash, Apple, Leek & Potato Gratin with a Cheddar Crust

Equally at home with the Thanksgiving turkey or sautéed pork chops, this sweet butternut-apple gratin can take a spicy turn if you slip in a bit of sliced turnip.

For the topping:

• 1-1/2 cups coarse fresh breadcrumbs (from an airy, crusty loaf like ciabatta)
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted
• Kosher salt
• 3 oz. (3/4 cup) grated sharp Cheddar
• 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

For the gratin:

• 1/4 cup unsalted butter, plus 1/2 tsp. for the dish
• 2 cups sliced leeks (white and light green parts of 3 medium leeks), thoroughly washed
• Kosher salt
• 2/3 cup plus 3 Tbs. apple cider
• 1/2 cup plus 3 Tbs. heavy cream
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme leaves
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 crisp, firm apples, such as Golden Delicious or Braeburn (about 14 oz. total), peeled, cored, and thinly sliced
• 12 oz. butternut squash (neck portion only) 
• 2 medium Yukon Gold potatoes (12 oz. total)

Make the topping:

Combine the crumbs, melted butter, and a pinch of salt in a bowl. Mix in the Cheddar and thyme.

Prepare the gratin:

Heat the oven to 350°F. Rub a shallow 2-quart gratin dish with 1/2 tsp. of the butter.

Melt the 2 Tbs. butter in a small (preferably nonstick) saucepan over medium heat. Add the leeks and a big pinch of salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until well softened and lightly browned (the pan will be dry), 10 to 15 minutes. Add 2/3 cup of the cider and simmer for 2 minutes to reduce it slightly. Add 1/2 cup of the cream, the chopped thyme, a pinch of salt, a few grinds of pepper, and stir well; set aside.

Cook the apples: In a large nonstick skillet, melt the remaining 2 Tbs. butter over medium heat. Turn the heat to medium high, add the apple slices, and cook, gently flipping and stirring, until most of the slices are browned and limp but not falling apart, about 10 minutes. Add the remaining 3 Tbs. cream and 3 Tbs. cider. Stir and let the liquids reduce slightly for a few seconds; remove from the heat.

Assemble and bake the gratin:

Peel the squash neck, cut it into quarters lengthwise, and cut them across into thin slices. Peel the potatoes, cut them in half, and cut them across into thin slices. In a large bowl, combine the squash slices, the potato slices, the leek mixture, the apple mixture (scrape the pans well), and a scant 2 tsp. salt. Using a rubber spatula, mix gently but thoroughly. Scrape the mixture into the prepared gratin dish, smoothing and pressing until evenly distributee. Cover with the breadcrumb topping.

Bake until the crust is deep golden brown, the juices around the edges have subsided, and the crust is dark brown around the edges, about 1 hour. Let rest for 15 to 20 minutes before serving.

Apple Brown Betty

The betty seems to bake taller when made with croissants, but most people are more likely to have day-old bread on hand than day-old croissants.

• 4 cups 3/4-inch pieces day-old bread, such as French or Italian, or day-old croissants
• 1-3/4 lb. apples (about 4 medium), peeled, cored, quartered, and cut in 3/4-inch dice (to yield about 4 cups)
• 1 recipe Apple Purée
• 1/2 cup orange juice
• 1/2 cup plus 2 tsp. sugar
• 2-1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1/3 cup raisins
• 6 oz. (12 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted

Heat the oven to 350°F. Butter and flour an 8-inch square or round cake pan.

Line the bottom of the pan with kitchen parchment or waxed paper.

In a large bowl, mix well with your hands the bread, apples, apple purée, orange juice, 1/2 cup of the sugar, 2 tsp. of the cinnamon, the raisins, and all but about 2 Tbs. of the melted butter. Press the mixture into the pan. Brush the top with the reserved melted butter and sprinkle with the remaining 1/2 tsp. cinnamon and 2 tsp. sugar. Bake until the top is golden and the sides are bubbling, about 1 hour and 5 minutes. Cool in the pan at least 1 hour. Loosen the sides with a knife. Turn it out onto a flat plate or cutting board and then flip it back onto a serving dish so that the golden top is upright. If it doesn't come out, heat the bottom of the pan (only if it's metal) on the stove until you hear sizzling, about 30 seconds, and then try again. Serve warm.

Stilton, Apple & Leek Tart with a Spiced Whole-Wheat Crust

Serve this tart with beer or hard cider to underscore the apples or with a semi-dry Chenin Blanc. Add a robust green salad tossed in a malt vinegar dressing to make a brewpub-style lunch. Be sure to sift the flours before measuring. Quantities for flour and butter are given by weight (ounces) and by volume (cups or tablespoons); use either measurement.

For the tart shell

•  6 oz. (1-1/2 cups) sifted unbleached all-purpose flour
• 2 oz. (1/2 cup) sifted whole-wheat flour
• 1 tsp. ground coriander
• 1/4 tsp. ground mace
• Pinch cayenne
• 1 tsp. coarse salt
• 1/4 lb. (8 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into bits and chilled
• 4 to 6 Tbs. ice water

For the filling:

• 1 medium leek (about 1/4 lb.)
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 medium apple (Fuji or other sweet and-tart variety), unpeeled, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch cubes
• 3 large eggs
• 1 cup half-and-half or light cream
• 1/2 tsp. coarse salt
• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 tsp. grated nutmeg
• 8 oz. Stilton, trimmed of any rind and crumbled

Make the tart shell:

In a medium mixing bowl, stir together the two flours, coriander, mace, cayenne, and salt. By hand or using a food processor, cut the butter into the flour mixture until the butter bits resemble oatmeal. Mix in just enough ice water to form a ball of dough (be sparing). Gently flatten the dough into a smooth disk about 1-1/2 inches thick. Roll the dough on a lightly floured surface into a round about 1/8 inch thick. Drape the dough over the rolling pin and lift it over a-10- or 11-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Unroll it loosely over the pan and gently press the dough into the pan without stretching it. Trim any excess dough from the rim of the pan. Cover in-plastic and chill for at least 1 hour.

Heat the oven to 400ºF. Fit a piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil over the dough and fill it with dried beans or pie weights. Bake until the dough is cooked through but not yet browned, 20 to 25 min. Remove the foil and weights and bake until the dough is evenly and lightly browned, about another 10 min. Remove from the oven and let cool.

Make the filling:

Cut off and discard the dark green top and the root end of the leek. Split the leek lengthwise into quarters and then cut crosswise into squares. Soak in a large bowl of cold water, swishing to loosen the dirt. Remove the leeks from the water using a skimmer or slotted spoon and drain.

Heat the butter in a medium skillet; add the leeks and apples. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until the leeks are brightly colored and the apples are softened, about 5 min. Remove from the heat and let cool.

Lightly beat together the eggs, halfand- half, salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

Fill and bake the tart:

Heat the oven to 300ºF. Cover the underside and edges of the tart pan with heavy-duty foil to prevent leaks and put the pan on a baking sheet. Distribute the leeks and apples evenly over the tart shell. Sprinkle the crumbled Stilton between the apples and leeks. Pour the custard over the top. Bake until the custard has just set in the middle, about 45 min. Let cool to room temperature before serving.

Blackberry-Apple Turnovers

With a dense crispness and a high sugar-to-acid ratio, Pink Lady apples are ideal for these pies. Even when tender, they hold their shape and retain some firmness, for a nice contrast to the juicy, collapsed berries.

For the dough

• 11-1/4 oz. (2-1/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
• 6 oz. (3/4 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into 12 pieces
• 6 oz. cold cream cheese, cut into 6 pieces
• 1/2 cup heavy cream

For the filling

• 6 oz. (1-1/4 cups) blackberries, halved
• 1 large Pink Lady apple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 1/2 cup light brown sugar
• 1 Tbs. unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1/2 tsp. ground allspice
• 1/4 tsp. kosher salt

For assembly

• 1 large egg yolk
• Granulated sugar

Make the dough

Put the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor. Add the butter and cream cheese and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal, 8 to 10 pulses. Add the cream and pulse, pausing to scrape the bowl once or twice, just until the dough starts to come together, 8 to 10 pulses more. Do not overprocess. Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface, gather it together, and pat it into a rectangle. Wrap it in plastic and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 3 days.


When ready to bake, position racks in the bottom and top thirds of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Line 2 large rimmed baking sheets with parchment.


On a lightly floured surface with a lightly floured rolling pin, roll the dough into a 13x18-inch rectangle. Be sure to loosen the dough several times and reflour underneath so it doesn’t stick. Trim the edges straight to form a 12x16-inch rectangle and cut the dough into twelve 4-inch squares. Put six squares on each baking sheet.

Make the filling

In a medium bowl, lightly toss the blackberries, apple, brown sugar, flour, allspice, and salt until combined.

Assemble and bake the turnovers

Tip:

Cup a dough square in one hand to create a triangular pocket. Fill the dough with your other hand, pull the corners up to form a triangle, and pinch to seal.

In a small bowl, beat the egg yolk with 1 tsp. water. Brush the outer edges of each dough square with egg wash. Spoon 2 rounded Tbs. of the filling into the center of each square. Bring the points together into a triangular shape, pressing to seal the edges. Lightly brush the top of each turnover with egg wash and sprinkle with a scant 1/2 tsp. granulated sugar. With the tip of a paring knife, cut a steam vent in the center of the top crust of each turnover.


Bake until the turnovers are browned and the filling is bubbling, 25 to 30 minutes, swapping and rotating the baking sheets’ positions about halfway through baking. (Don’t worry if juice leaks out.)


Transfer the baking sheets to racks and allow to cool for 5 minutes. Then loosen the turnovers with an offset spatula and cool completely on the sheets. The turnovers are best the day they’re made.

Apple Brown-Butter Jalousie

For this pastry, the fruit filling shouldn’t be very juicy or the bottom crust will become soggy. The solution is to precook the apples and reduce their juices. The filling can be made and stored in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to two days.

• 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 lb. Granny Smith apples (about 3 medium), peeled, halved lengthwise, cored, and cut crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices
• 1/4 cup packed light or dark brown sugar
• 3 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
• 3/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp. kosher salt
• Pinch freshly grated or ground nutmeg
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped out with the back of a knife (reserve the seeds)
• 1 large egg
• 1 sheet frozen packaged puff pastry (Pepperidge Farm brand), thawed overnight in the fridge or according to package instructions
• Flour for rolling out the dough
• 1 tsp. demerara, turbinado, or granulated sugar
• Crème fraîche, lightly sweetened whipped cream, or vanilla ice cream for serving (optional)

Make the filling:

In a large bowl, toss the apples with the brown sugar, granulated sugar, lemon juice, cinnamon, salt, and nutmeg.

In a 12-inch skillet, melt the butter over medium heat until the milk solids turn golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the vanilla seeds, and stir. Carefully add the apple mixture to the skillet; with a heatproof rubber spatula, scrape all the sugar and spices from the bowl into the skillet. Stir the apples to coat them with the butter and then spread them in a fairly even layer. Return the pan to medium heat and cook, stirring gently with the spatula every few minutes (try not to break the apple slices), until the apples are tender but not mushy (taste one) and still hold their shape, and the juices have cooked down to a fairly thick, brown, bubbling syrup, 10 to 13 minutes. Scrape the apples into a wide shallow dish or onto a baking sheet to cool completely before assembling the jalousie.

Assemble the jalousie:

Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment. In a small bowl, make an egg wash by beating the egg with 1 Tbs. water until well combined.

Unfold the puff pastry dough on a floured surface, and gently pinch together any seams that have split. With a floured rolling pin, roll the dough into a 12x14-inch rectangle. With a sharp knife, cut the rectangle in half lengthwise to form two 6x14-inch rectangles. Use a long spatula to help you move one of the dough rectangles onto the parchment-lined baking sheet.

Use a pastry brush to brush a 1-inch border of egg wash around the perimeter of the dough. (Save the remaining egg wash.) Arrange the fruit in a 4-inch-wide strip down the length of the dough. (I like to shingle the apple slices in a thick herringbone pattern down the length of the dough; you may need to make a double layer of apples.) Some syrupy apple juices will likely remain in the dish; spoon 2 to 3 Tbs. over the apples. If some of the liquid seeps onto the egg-washed border, don’t worry about it.

Lightly dust the remaining piece of puff pastry with flour and then gently fold it in half lengthwise; don’t crease the fold. Using a sharp knife, cut 1-1/2-inch-long slashes at 1-inch intervals along the folded side of the dough; leave at least a 1-inch border on the remaining three sides. Do not unfold the dough. Using a long spatula, gently lift the folded strip and position it over the fruit-filled dough rectangle, matching up the straight edges.

Slash along the folded side.

Gently unfold the top piece of dough and stretch it over the filling, matching the straight edges all the way around the perimeter of the dough. Press the edges gently with your fingertips to seal the dough, and then, with a fork, very gently crimp the edges of the dough all the way around the pastry.

Unfold the dough over the filling.

Bake the jalousie:

Chill the assembled jalousie for 15 to 20 minutes. Meanwhile, position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F.

Right before baking, brush the top of the jalousie with a very light coating of the remaining egg wash (you won’t need it all) and sprinkle with the demerara, turbinado, or granulated sugar.

Bake for 15 minutes and then rotate the baking sheet. Continue baking until the pastry is puffed, deep golden brown on top, and light golden brown on the bottom—use a spatula to gently lift the jalousie so you can peek underneath—another 10 to 15 minutes. Immediately transfer the jalousie from the baking sheet to a wire rack to cool for at least 45 minutes. (Instead of trying to move the hot jalousie with a spatula, lift the parchment to move the jalousie to the rack and then carefully slide the paper out from under the pastry.)

Serve the jalousie slightly warm with crème fraîche, lightly sweetened whipped cream, or vanilla ice cream, if you like.

Maple Apple-Pear Butter

Cook the apples and pears with their peels, cores, and seeds to get every ounce of flavor from the fruit. Regardless of what pear variety you use, they must be ripe, or your butter may be unpleasantly grainy.

• 3-1/2 lb. ripe pears
• 2-1/2 lb. apples
• 3 cups apple or pear cider
• 1-1/3 cups pure maple syrup
• 1/4 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
• 1-1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp. ground cloves
• 1/4 tsp. table salt
• 1 Tbs. lemon juice
• 1-1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Cut the pears into 1-inch chunks. Cut the apples in half or into quarters if large. Put the fruit and the cider in a very large pot (at least 7-quart capacity). Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer, stirring frequently, until the fruit is very soft when pierced with a knife, 40 to 60 minutes. Take the pot off the heat.

Set a food mill fitted with a fine sieve disk over a large bowl. Purée the fruit in small batches, discarding seeds and skins.

Wipe out any remaining seeds or peels from the pot and pour in the purée. Add the maple syrup, brown sugar, cinnamon, cloves, and salt. Stir until well blended.

Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low or medium low to maintain a simmer. Using a large spoon, skim off most of the foam that rises to the surface during the initial simmering.

Continue simmering, stirring often with an angled spatula, making sure to scrape the bottom, corners, and sides of the pot, until the purée becomes thick and dark and the bubbling becomes slow and laborious (more like volcanic burps than bubbles), 1-3/4 hours to 2-3/4 hours. Be sure to stir toward the end of cooking to avoid scorching. To test for doneness, spoon a dollop of the butter onto a small plate and refrigerate for a minute or two. It should hold its shape with no water separating out around its edge.

Remove the pot from the heat and add the lemon juice and vanilla, stirring until well blended. Transfer the butter to a container, let cool to room temperature, and then store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.

Note: For longer storage at room temperature, can the fruit butter. Transfer the hot butter to clean, hot canning jars, leaving 1/4 inch of headspace in each jar, and follow the directions in our canning video, processing the butter for 10 minutes.

Applesauce Trifles

I created these trifles of caramelized oat-rye-spelt clusters, vanilla-infused applesauce, and whipped cream as a riff on a classic Scandinavian dessert known as Veiled Country Lass. Belle de Boskoop apples, native to the Netherlands, are my favorite for making applesauce, but other tart-sweet baking apples like Jonagold or Pink Lady will do. You can use just oats to make the clusters, but the rye and spelt flakes add a lovely nutty note.

• 4-1/2 lb. tart-sweet apples (about 9), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 2/3 cup granulated sugar
• 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped, or 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1 cup rolled oats
• 1 cup rye flakes
• 1 cup spelt flakes
• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) salted butter, 2 oz. melted and 2 oz. cut into 4 pieces
• 1 cup packed dark brown sugar
• 3/4 cup hazelnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped
• 1-1/2 cups heavy cream

Combine the apples, sugar, vanilla seeds and pod, if using, and 1/2 cup water in a heavy-duty 4-quart saucepan. Cover and simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally and adding more water 1/4 cup at a time if the apples become dry, until broken down into a chunky sauce, about 30 minutes. Transfer the applesauce to a medium bowl and add the vanilla extract, if using. Let cool and then refrigerate until chilled, about 1-1/2 hours. Remove and discard the vanilla bean pod, if used.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F. Toss the oats, rye, and spelt with the 2 oz. melted butter on a large rimmed baking sheet. Spread in an even layer and bake, stirring once, until golden, about 15 minutes. Set aside.

Melt the remaining 2 oz. butter with the brown sugar in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar is completely melted and bubbling slightly, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the hazelnuts and toasted grains, and toss until clusters form. Spread the clusters on a large rimmed baking sheet and let cool completely.

In ten 8- to 10-oz. parfait glasses, alternate two 1/2-cup layers each of applesauce and clusters, starting with the applesauce.

In a large chilled bowl with a hand-held electric mixer, whip the cream on medium-high speed to medium-firm peaks, about 2 minutes. Top the trifles with the cream and serve.