Salmon Fillets with Herbed Leeks

A bed of herbed leeks perfumes baked fish and makes a delicious garnish. Halibut or snapper would work as nicely as salmon.

For the fish:

• 4 salmon fillets (6 oz. each)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 leaves fresh sage
• 4 sprigs fresh thyme
• Grated zest of 1/2 lemon

For the leeks:

• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 3 large or 4 medium leeks (root and dark green parts removed), diced (to yield 3 cups), washed, and dried
• 1/2 tsp. salt; more to taste
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh sage
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh thyme
• Freshly ground black pepper

Season the fish fillets with salt and pepper. Drizzle them lightly with olive oil, rub them with the sage and thyme, and spread with the lemon zest. Lay a sage leaf and a sprig of thyme on each fillet. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to an hour.

Heat the oven to 400°F. In a wide, heavy sauté pan, heat the butter and olive oil until very hot. Add the diced leeks, stir to coat well, and reduce the heat to medium low. Salt them lightly, stir again, and continue to cook slowly until the leeks are soft, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding a few tablespoons of water if the pan gets too dry or the leeks are browning too much. Add the garlic, chopped herbs, salt, and pepper and cook for a few minutes until the garlic is soft and fragrant. Spread the leeks in the bottom of a 2-1/2-qt. ovenproof baking dish. Lay the fish fillets on top and bake until a paring knife inserted in the fish feels warm when touched to your lip, about 20 minutes. To serve, spoon the herbed leeks over each fillet.

Brussels Sprouts and Leeks with Lime-Ginger Butter

Lime and ginger brighten the deeply nutty character of well-browned Brussels sprouts and silky leeks.

• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 Tbs. minced peeled fresh ginger
• 1 medium lime, finely grated to yield 1 tsp. zest and squeezed to yield 1 Tbs. juice
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1-1/4 lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed, and quartered lengthwise if large, halved if small
• Kosher salt
• 3 medium leeks, white and light-green parts only, cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds, rings separated and washed well but not dried

Melt the butter in a small skillet or saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, swirling occasionally, until the milk solids turn light brown, about 5 minutes. Add the ginger and stir for a few seconds. Remove the pan from the heat, add the lime zest and juice, and swirl to combine.

Heat the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the Brussels sprouts and 1 tsp. salt; toss well to coat with oil.

Cover the pan with the lid ajar by about 1 inch. Turn the heat down to medium low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sprouts start to brown, 8 to 12 minutes. As the mixture cooks, you should hear a gentle sizzle.

Uncover, turn the heat down to low, add the leeks (with any water still clinging to them) and cook, stirring occasionally and then pushing the vegetables back into a single layer so that most have direct contact with the pan, until the leeks are limp and the sprouts are well browned, about 15 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat. Pour the butter mixture over the sprouts and leeks and stir, scraping the bottom of the pan and tossing well to coat. Season to taste with salt. Serve right away or let sit off the heat, partially covered, until ready to serve, and then reheat gently over medium-low heat.

Twice-Baked Sweet Potatoes with Leeks and Sausage

In these comforting stuffed sweet potatoes, fresh herbs, salty sausage, Gruyère, and sour cream are delicious, savory counterpoints to the sweet potatoes and leeks. Serve them as a main dish or as an accompaniment to seared steak or roast chicken.

• 4 small sweet potatoes (about 8 oz. each)
• 1 Tbs. olive oil  
• 1/2 lb. bulk sweet Italian sausage (or link sausage, casings removed) 
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 lb. leeks, white and light-green parts only, quartered lengthwise and thinly sliced (about 2 cups) 
• 1 tsp. chopped fresh sage
• 1/4 tsp. chopped fresh thyme   
• Kosher salt 
• 1/2 cup sour cream
• 1/4 cup grated Gruyère  

Tip:

Sweet potatoes have thin, delicate skin that tears easily, so don’t scrape too hard when scooping them out. Leaving 1/8 inch of flesh in each shell will  keep it from flopping closed. 

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F. Line a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet with parchment or foil.

Poke the sweet potatoes a few times with the tip of a knife and arrange them on the baking sheet. Bake until completely tender when pierced in the fattest part with a skewer, 35 to 60 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the sausage, reduce the heat to medium, and cook, breaking it into small bits with the edge of a slotted spoon, until no longer pink, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside. 

Pour off all but 1 Tbs. of the fat and add the butter. When it melts, add the leeks, sage, thyme, and 1-1/2 tsp. salt. Cook, stirring stirring, until the mixture just starts to sizzle. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, until the leeks are very soft and starting to turn golden, 10 to 15 minutes. 

When the sweet potatoes are cool enough to handle, carefully cut them in half lengthwise and gently scoop the flesh into a medium bowl, leaving about 1/8 inch of flesh in the shells. Mash the scooped flesh with a fork or potato masher until smooth. Stir in the sour cream and 1 tsp. salt. Fold the sausage and leeks into the mashed sweet potato and season to taste with salt. 

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high. Mound the filling into the potato skins and top with the cheese. Put the potatoes in a 9x13-inch baking dish and broil until the cheese is golden, about 4 minutes. Serve immediately.

Seared Scallops with Creamy Spinach and Leeks

Sweet leeks and rich cream mellow the slightly bitter edge of sautéed fresh spinach. Together, they make a luscious bed for seared scallops.

• 2-1/2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 12 oz. baby spinach (about 12 loosely packed cups)
• 2 medium leeks (white and light-green parts only), halved lengthwise, thinly sliced crosswise, and rinsed (about 1 cup)
• Kosher salt
• 2 large cloves garlic, minced
• 1/3 cup dry white wine
• 1/3 cup heavy cream
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
• 2 Tbs. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 16 large dry-packed sea scallops
• 4 tsp. vegetable oil

Melt 1/2 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add half of the spinach and cook, tossing with tongs, until just wilted, about 2 minutes. Transfer with tongs to a colander set over a bowl; let drain and cool slightly. Repeat with the remaining spinach (you don’t need to add more butter). Squeeze handfuls of the spinach to release as much liquid as possible.

Discard any liquid in the skillet. Melt the remaining 2 Tbs. butter over medium heat and then add the leeks and a pinch of salt. Cook until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute more. Add the wine, raise the heat to medium high, and cook until almost evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add the cream and simmer until it’s thickened and coats the back of a spoon, about 2 minutes. Season with 1/2 tsp. salt, a generous grind of pepper, and the nutmeg. Stir in the cheese and gently fold in the spinach. Keep warm.

Pat the scallops dry and remove the side muscle if still attached. In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat 2 tsp. of the oil over medium heat until shimmering hot. Season the scallops with salt and pepper. Add half of the scallops to the pan and cook, undisturbed, until browned on the bottom, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and continue to cook until just opaque in the center, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to a plate and tent with foil to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining 2 tsp. of oil and the scallops. Serve the scallops over the spinach.

Bacon and Leek Soufflé

You won’t see the cream cheese in this simple soufflé, but you’ll certainly taste its rich flavor.

• Unsalted butter, softened, for the baking dish
• 5 slices bacon, thinly sliced crosswise
• 2 cups thinly sliced leeks (light-green and white parts only, from about 2 medium leeks)
• 1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup whole milk
• 5 oz. cream cheese, cubed
• 1/2 cup grated Asiago cheese
• 5 large eggs, separated, plus 1 large white
• 1/2 tsp. cream of tartar

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. Butter an 8x8-inch baking dish.


In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until crisp, about 8 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a large bowl. Add the leeks to the skillet, reduce the heat to medium low, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 4 minutes. Add the leeks to the bacon and stir in the thyme and 1/4 tsp. each salt and pepper.


Gently warm the milk in the skillet over medium-low heat. Stir in the cream cheese and Asiago and whisk until melted and combined. Add the milk mixture to the leeks and bacon and stir to combine and cool slightly. Gently mix in the egg yolks; set aside.


In a medium bowl, beat the egg whites and cream of tartar with an electric hand mixer on high speed to medium-stiff peaks. With a large spatula, gently fold the egg whites into the leek and bacon mixture.


Pour the mixture into the prepared dish and bake until puffed and golden-brown on top, 22 to 24 minutes. Serve immediately—the soufflé will deflate as it cools.

Salmon Fillets with Herbed Leeks

A bed of herbed leeks perfumes baked fish and makes a delicious garnish. Halibut or snapper would work as nicely as salmon.

For the fish:

• 4 salmon fillets (6 oz. each)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 leaves fresh sage
• 4 sprigs fresh thyme
• Grated zest of 1/2 lemon

For the leeks:

• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 3 large or 4 medium leeks (root and dark green parts removed), diced (to yield 3 cups), washed, and dried
• 1/2 tsp. salt; more to taste
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh sage
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh thyme
• Freshly ground black pepper

Season the fish fillets with salt and pepper. Drizzle them lightly with olive oil, rub them with the sage and thyme, and spread with the lemon zest. Lay a sage leaf and a sprig of thyme on each fillet. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to an hour.

Heat the oven to 400°F. In a wide, heavy sauté pan, heat the butter and olive oil until very hot. Add the diced leeks, stir to coat well, and reduce the heat to medium low. Salt them lightly, stir again, and continue to cook slowly until the leeks are soft, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding a few tablespoons of water if the pan gets too dry or the leeks are browning too much. Add the garlic, chopped herbs, salt, and pepper and cook for a few minutes until the garlic is soft and fragrant. Spread the leeks in the bottom of a 2-1/2-qt. ovenproof baking dish. Lay the fish fillets on top and bake until a paring knife inserted in the fish feels warm when touched to your lip, about 20 minutes. To serve, spoon the herbed leeks over each fillet.

Brussels Sprouts and Leeks with Lime-Ginger Butter

Lime and ginger brighten the deeply nutty character of well-browned Brussels sprouts and silky leeks.

• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 Tbs. minced peeled fresh ginger
• 1 medium lime, finely grated to yield 1 tsp. zest and squeezed to yield 1 Tbs. juice
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1-1/4 lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed, and quartered lengthwise if large, halved if small
• Kosher salt
• 3 medium leeks, white and light-green parts only, cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds, rings separated and washed well but not dried

Melt the butter in a small skillet or saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, swirling occasionally, until the milk solids turn light brown, about 5 minutes. Add the ginger and stir for a few seconds. Remove the pan from the heat, add the lime zest and juice, and swirl to combine.

Heat the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the Brussels sprouts and 1 tsp. salt; toss well to coat with oil.

Cover the pan with the lid ajar by about 1 inch. Turn the heat down to medium low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sprouts start to brown, 8 to 12 minutes. As the mixture cooks, you should hear a gentle sizzle.

Uncover, turn the heat down to low, add the leeks (with any water still clinging to them) and cook, stirring occasionally and then pushing the vegetables back into a single layer so that most have direct contact with the pan, until the leeks are limp and the sprouts are well browned, about 15 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat. Pour the butter mixture over the sprouts and leeks and stir, scraping the bottom of the pan and tossing well to coat. Season to taste with salt. Serve right away or let sit off the heat, partially covered, until ready to serve, and then reheat gently over medium-low heat.

Stilton, Apple & Leek Tart with a Spiced Whole-Wheat Crust

Serve this tart with beer or hard cider to underscore the apples or with a semi-dry Chenin Blanc. Add a robust green salad tossed in a malt vinegar dressing to make a brewpub-style lunch. Be sure to sift the flours before measuring. Quantities for flour and butter are given by weight (ounces) and by volume (cups or tablespoons); use either measurement.

For the tart shell

•  6 oz. (1-1/2 cups) sifted unbleached all-purpose flour
• 2 oz. (1/2 cup) sifted whole-wheat flour
• 1 tsp. ground coriander
• 1/4 tsp. ground mace
• Pinch cayenne
• 1 tsp. coarse salt
• 1/4 lb. (8 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into bits and chilled
• 4 to 6 Tbs. ice water

For the filling:

• 1 medium leek (about 1/4 lb.)
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 medium apple (Fuji or other sweet and-tart variety), unpeeled, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch cubes
• 3 large eggs
• 1 cup half-and-half or light cream
• 1/2 tsp. coarse salt
• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 tsp. grated nutmeg
• 8 oz. Stilton, trimmed of any rind and crumbled

Make the tart shell:

In a medium mixing bowl, stir together the two flours, coriander, mace, cayenne, and salt. By hand or using a food processor, cut the butter into the flour mixture until the butter bits resemble oatmeal. Mix in just enough ice water to form a ball of dough (be sparing). Gently flatten the dough into a smooth disk about 1-1/2 inches thick. Roll the dough on a lightly floured surface into a round about 1/8 inch thick. Drape the dough over the rolling pin and lift it over a-10- or 11-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Unroll it loosely over the pan and gently press the dough into the pan without stretching it. Trim any excess dough from the rim of the pan. Cover in-plastic and chill for at least 1 hour.

Heat the oven to 400ºF. Fit a piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil over the dough and fill it with dried beans or pie weights. Bake until the dough is cooked through but not yet browned, 20 to 25 min. Remove the foil and weights and bake until the dough is evenly and lightly browned, about another 10 min. Remove from the oven and let cool.

Make the filling:

Cut off and discard the dark green top and the root end of the leek. Split the leek lengthwise into quarters and then cut crosswise into squares. Soak in a large bowl of cold water, swishing to loosen the dirt. Remove the leeks from the water using a skimmer or slotted spoon and drain.

Heat the butter in a medium skillet; add the leeks and apples. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until the leeks are brightly colored and the apples are softened, about 5 min. Remove from the heat and let cool.

Lightly beat together the eggs, halfand- half, salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

Fill and bake the tart:

Heat the oven to 300ºF. Cover the underside and edges of the tart pan with heavy-duty foil to prevent leaks and put the pan on a baking sheet. Distribute the leeks and apples evenly over the tart shell. Sprinkle the crumbled Stilton between the apples and leeks. Pour the custard over the top. Bake until the custard has just set in the middle, about 45 min. Let cool to room temperature before serving.

Cornish Game Hens Stuffed with Wild Rice & Leeks

Some wild rice won’t soak up all the cooking liquid even when it’s fully cooked. If this is the case, just pour off the extra liquid and proceed with the recipe.

• 5 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 large or 3 medium leeks, the white and 1 inch of the light green portion cut into 1/2-inch dice, washed, and drained (to yield 2 cups)
• 3/4 cup raw wild rice, rinsed and drained
• 1-1/2 cups homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth
• 3/4 cup water
• 1/2 tsp. salt; more to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1/2 lb. assorted wild mushrooms, wiped clean and chopped
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• 1 tsp. chopped fresh sage
• 6 Cornish game hens (about 1-1/2 lb. each), neck and giblets removed and discarded or saved for stock, hens rinsed and patted dry

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt 2 Tbs. of the butter. Add the leeks and cook until soft, 10 to 12 min. Add the wild rice, chicken broth, water, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer gently without stirring until the rice is just tender, 40 to 45 min. If the rice is done and liquid remains, pour off the extra. Set aside. Meanwhile, melt 1 Tbs. of the butter in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the mushrooms, parsley, thyme, and sage to the pan. Season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are soft and have released their liquid, 3 to 5 min. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms are dry, 3 to 5 min. Stir the mushrooms into the rice and set aside to cool; you should have about 2 cups of stuffing.

Heat the oven to 425°F. Season the cavity of each hen with salt and pepper. Make sure the stuffing is thoroughly cool and pack the cavity of each hen loosely with about 2/3 cup stuffing. With kitchen twine, tie the legs together. Tuck the wings underneath. Arrange the birds breast side up on a wire rack set in a shallow roasting pan (or two). Melt the remaining 2 Tbs. butter and use half to brush over the hens. Sprinkle them with salt and pepper. Roast for 20 min. Brush with the remaining melted butter. Continue to roast until the juices run clear when you prick the thickest part of the thigh and an instant- read thermometer inserted in the thigh registers 170°F, another 25 to 30 min. Transfer the hens to a platter, tent with foil, and let stand for 10 min. before serving.

Sweet Potato & Leek Gratin

If you want to prepare the gratin a day ahead, reheat it covered in a 300°F oven until bubbling around the edges and warmed through.

• 2 large leeks (1 lb. total), trimmed, halved lengthwise, sliced 1/4 inch thick crosswise, swished and soaked in enough cold water to cover
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter; more for the pan
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 6 oz. pancetta or country ham, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 1/4 cup minced garlic
• 2 cups heavy cream
• 3 Tbs. fresh thyme leaves
• 1 tsp. coarse salt
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 2 medium sweet potatoes (1 lb. total), peeled (see Sweet potatoes vs. yams)
• 3 medium Idaho potatoes (1-1/4 lb. total), peeled

Lift the leeks gently from their soaking water so that any grit stays behind. Drain them in a colander. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter in the olive oil. Add the pancetta or ham and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 9 min. Remove with a slotted spoon to drain on paper towels. Add the leeks and garlic to the pan, cover, and reduce the heat to low. Sweat the leeks and garlic, cooking slowly and stirring occasionally, until the leeks are softened, about 5 min. (Don't let the leeks or garlic brown.) Add the cream, bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer uncovered for 5 min. Stir in the pancetta or ham, the thyme, and the salt; add pepper to taste. Set aside.

Heat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 2-qt. casserole dish. Slice the sweet potatoes between 1/4 and 1/8 inch thick. Repeat with the Idaho potatoes. Arrange one overlapping layer of Idaho slices on the bottom of the casserole. Season lightly with salt and pepper; spoon 2 Tbs. of the leek cream evenly over the potatoes. Add a layer of sweet potato slices, season lightly with salt and pepper, and spoon on another 2 Tbs. of the leek cream. Repeat with the remaining potatoes until all are used. With your hands or a rubber spatula, press down firmly on the potatoes and drizzle the remaining leek cream over them. Bake until the gratin is golden on top, 50 to 60 min. Let rest in a warm place for 15 min. Cut into squares and serve.

For this gratin, arrange the slices so they overlap slightly.

Before you drizzle on the last of the leek cream, press down to compact the layers of potatoes.

Red Potato & Tomato Gratin with Leeks, Gruyère & Rosemary

Try this gratin with Yukon Gold potatoes or substitute some of the red tomatoes with yellow, orange, or even green tomatoes.

For the leeks

• 1-1/2 Tbs. olive oil
• 3 cups sliced leeks (about 3 large, white and pale green parts only), washed thoroughly

For the potatoes

• 1-1/4 lb. red potatoes, unpeeled, cut into 1/4-inch slices
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt; more for boiling the potatoes
• 1-1/2 Tbs. olive oil
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary

To assemble the gratin

• 1 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary
• 1-1/4 lb. ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into 1/4-inch slices
• 1-3/4 cups grated Gruyère cheese
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1-1/2 Tbs. olive oil
• 2/3 cup fresh breadcrumbs mixed with 2 tsp.olive oil

To cook the leeks: Heat the olive oil in a medium skillet (preferably nonstick) over medium heat. Add the leeks and sauté, stirring frequently, until limp and lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Spread the leeks evenly in the bottom of an oiled 2-qt. shallow gratin dish (preferably oval). Let cool.

To cook the potatoes: In a medium saucepan, cover the potato slices with well-salted water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a gentle boil and cook for 5 minutes or until the potatoes are just barely tender. Drain and rinse under cold water until cool. Pat dry. Toss the potatoes with the salt, olive oil, and rosemary.

To assemble the gratin: Heat the oven to 375°F. Sprinkle 1/2 tsp. of the chopped rosemary over the leeks. Starting at one end of the baking dish, lay a row of slightly overlapping tomato slices across the width of the dish. Prop the tomatoes against the dish at a 60-degree angle. Cover the row of tomatoes with a generous sprinkling of Gruyère. Next, arrange a row of potato slices over the tomatoes. Sprinkle again with Gruyère. Repeat with alternating rows of tomatoes and potatoes, sprinkling each with cheese, until the gratin is full.

Sprinkle about 1/2 tsp. salt and the remaining 1/2 tsp. rosemary over all and season with pepper. Drizzle with the olive oil. Mix any remaining Gruyère with the breadcrumb mixture and spread this over the whole gratin. Cook until the gratin is well-browned all over and the juices have bubbled for a while and reduced considerably, 60 to 65 minutes. Let cool for at least 15 minutes before serving.

Irish Butter-Poached Scallops with Leeks and Sweet Garden Peas

Irish butter is much richer and has fewer milk solids than the everyday butter sold in the United States. You can substitute the more widely available European-style butter, which, like Irish butter, is higher in butterfat than standard U.S. butter.

For the gremolata

• 1 cup coarsely shredded dried bread crumbs
• 2 to 3 Tbs. olive oil
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 clove garlic, finely minced
• Grated zest of 1 lemon
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or chives

• 1 large leek, white and light green parts only, outer layers discarded and thinly sliced (3 to 3-1/2 cups)
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 3 Tbs. crème fraîche or heavy cream
• 1/4 cup water
• 1/2 tsp. sea salt
• 7 grinds of black pepper
• 1-3/4 to 2 cups shelled fresh or frozen English peas
• 12 to 18 jumbo scallops, depending on everyone’s appetite
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup clarified Irish butter
• Grated zest and juice of 2 lemons
• Watercress sprigs, for garnish

Tip:

To clarify the butter, melt it over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, until golden but not browned. Pour through a fine-mesh sieve or a coffee filter into a heatproof container, leaving the milk solids behind in the sieve or filter.

Make the gremolata:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Put the bread crumbs in a small bowl, drizzle with the olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat evenly. Spread in a pie pan or small baking sheet and toast for 7 to 8 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool completely. Just before serving, stir in the garlic, lemon zest, and parsley.

Prepare the leeks and peas:

In a saucepan, combine the leek, butter, crème fraîche, water, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until the leeks are a little tender and the sauce is reducing. Use your best judgment as to when to add the peas. If they are fresh but starchy they may take some time, so add them as soon as the leeks start to soften. If they are frozen, they may take just 2 to 3 minutes, so add them at the end. Shake the pan occasionally during cooking to change what is on the bottom of the pan with what is on the top. Cook until the vegetables are tender.

Finish the dish:

Once the vegetables are cooking, season the scallops on both sides with salt and pepper. In a big sauté pan (large enough to hold all of the scallops in a single layer), melt the butter over medium heat. When the butter is hot and foamy, add the scallops and poach gently for 3 to 5 minutes, basting as needed, until just done. They are ready when they feel just firm to the touch.

To serve, spoon the vegetables into individual deep plates or shallow soup bowls and top with the scallops. Add the lemon zest and juice to the butter from the scallop pan, then drizzle over the scallops. Sprinkle with some of the gremolata and garnish with the watercress.

Roast Salmon with Bacon and Leeks

Salmon is one of those versatile ingredients that work well for weeknight dinners and when you have guests. Here, crisp bacon and sautéed leeks complement the fish’s rich, full flavor. 

• 2 lbs. salmon fillet, skin on, cut into four 8-oz. pieces
• 3 Tbs. olive oil
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 lb. thickly sliced bacon, cut crosswise into thin strips
• 1 large leek (white and light green parts only), trimmed and thinly sliced crosswise into rings (2 cups)
• 2 tsp. cider vinegar

Tip:

If entertaining, you can cook and serve the fillet whole.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Rub the salmon flesh with 1 Tbs. oil and then sprinkle with half the thyme, 3/4 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper.

In a large (12-inch), oven-proof skillet (like a cast-iron pan) over medium heat, cook the bacon in 1 Tbs. oil, stirring occasionally, until it crisps and renders most of its fat, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels. Discard the bacon fat and wipe the pan with a paper towel.

Add the remaining Tbs. oil and the leek to the pan, sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt, the remaining thyme, and the vinegar, and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the leek softens completely and turns light brown, about 10 minutes.

Spread the leeks evenly around the pan and set the salmon skin side down on top. Transfer to the oven and roast uncovered until the salmon browns and becomes mostly firm to the touch (it should be just a little pink inside when you flake open a thicker piece of the fish), about 20 minutes.

Serve the salmon with leeks and crisp bacon on top.

Tomato Soup with Fennel, Leek & Potato

Loaded with fennel and potatoes, this hearty tomato soup is perfect with a grilled cheese sandwich, but a fresh spinach salad would make the meal too. For an elegant twist, try puréeing the soup (see tip below). The Pernod is optional, but we highly recommend including it because it enhances and deepens the fennel flavor beautifully.

• 3 Tbs. olive oil
• 1 tsp. fennel seed, coarsely crushed or ground in a spice grinder
• 1 medium fennel bulb, trimmed, cored, and cut into small dice (about 2 cups; save some fronds for optional garnish)
• 1 large leek (white and light-green parts only), halved lengthwise, rinsed well, and cut into small dice (about 1 cup)
• 1 Tbs. Pernod (optional)
• 3 cups lower-salt chicken broth
• 28-oz. can whole peeled plum tomatoes, drained and coarsely chopped (reserve the juice)
• 1 medium red or yellow potato, peeled and cut into medium dice
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Tip:

This soup can be puréed in the blender for a velvety version of the original. Be sure to work in small batches and crack the blender lid slightly (or remove the center cap from the lid). Steam can build up once you start blending, and if the lid is on tight or the blender is overfilled, it will spray hot soup all over you and your kitchen. For protection, cover the top with a dishtowel while puréeing.

In a nonreactive 4-quart saucepan, heat the oil over medium-low heat. Add the fennel seed and cook until fragrant and lightly brown, about 3 minutes. Add the fennel bulb, leek, and Pernod (if using) and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes.

Add the broth, tomatoes, and potato. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the potatoes are cooked through, 30 to 40 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve chunky or purée in a blender. If you purée the soup and it is too thick, add some of the reserved tomato juice. Garnish with chopped fennel fronds, if desired.

Silky Leek & Celery Root Soup

For the best flavor, make this soup a day in advance.

• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 medium leeks (white and light green parts only), trimmed, halved lengthwise, cut crosswise into thin half-moon slices, rinsed thoroughly, and drained
• 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
• 1 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• 1-1/2 lb. celery root (about 1 large)
• 3/4 cup crème fraîche
• 1/4 cup heavy cream; more as needed
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh chives

In a 4-quart or larger heavy-based pot, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the leeks, onion, and a generous pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until very soft and lightly golden but not brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to low if you see signs of browning.

Meanwhile, peel the celery root with a sharp knife (expect to slice quite a bit off the exterior as you trim). Halve the peeled celery root lengthwise and cut each half into 1-inch-thick wedges. Cut each wedge crosswise into 1/4-inch slices. You should have about 5 cups.

Add the celery root, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 cup water to the leeks. Cover and cook until the celery root is tender, 10 to 15 minutes. (Check occasionally; if all the water cooks off and the vegetables start to brown, add another 1/2 cup water.) Add 4-1/2 cups water, bring to a simmer, and continue to cook another 20 minutes. Let cool slightly.

Purée the soup (with a hand blender, or in small batches in a stand blender) to a very smooth, creamy consistency. Let cool completely and then store in the refrigerator at least overnight or for up to two days.

About an hour before serving, put the crème fraîche in a small bowl and stir in enough of the heavy cream so that the mixture reaches the consistency of yogurt. Leave the cream mixture at room temperature until you are ready to serve the soup. (If the cream is too cold, it will cool the soup.)

Reheat the soup. (If it’s too thick, gradually thin it with as much as 1 cup water.) Taste and add more salt as needed. Ladle the soup into small espresso cups or shot glasses. Top each portion with a small spoonful of crème fraîche (it should float on top of the soup). Finish each cup with a pinch of black pepper and a sprinkle of chives.

Brussels Sprouts and Leeks with Lime-Ginger Butter

Lime and ginger brighten the deeply nutty character of well-browned Brussels sprouts and silky leeks.

• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 Tbs. minced peeled fresh ginger
• 1 medium lime, finely grated to yield 1 tsp. zest and squeezed to yield 1 Tbs. juice
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1-1/4 lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed, and quartered lengthwise if large, halved if small
• Kosher salt
• 3 medium leeks, white and light-green parts only, cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds, rings separated and washed well but not dried

Melt the butter in a small skillet or saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, swirling occasionally, until the milk solids turn light brown, about 5 minutes. Add the ginger and stir for a few seconds. Remove the pan from the heat, add the lime zest and juice, and swirl to combine.

Heat the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the Brussels sprouts and 1 tsp. salt; toss well to coat with oil.

Cover the pan with the lid ajar by about 1 inch. Turn the heat down to medium low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sprouts start to brown, 8 to 12 minutes. As the mixture cooks, you should hear a gentle sizzle.

Uncover, turn the heat down to low, add the leeks (with any water still clinging to them) and cook, stirring occasionally and then pushing the vegetables back into a single layer so that most have direct contact with the pan, until the leeks are limp and the sprouts are well browned, about 15 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat. Pour the butter mixture over the sprouts and leeks and stir, scraping the bottom of the pan and tossing well to coat. Season to taste with salt. Serve right away or let sit off the heat, partially covered, until ready to serve, and then reheat gently over medium-low heat.

Homemade Vegetable Broth

Use this savory broth in place of chicken broth in any recipe.

• 6 medium carrots, chopped
• 3 medium celery stalks, chopped
• 1 large yellow onion, chopped
• 1 medium leek (including dark-green parts), chopped
• 1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves or 1 tsp. dried
• 1 dried bay leaf
• 1-1/4 tsp. sea salt
• 1 tsp. black peppercorns

Combine all of the ingredients in a 6-quart pot. Add 3 quarts of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook until flavorful, about 50 minutes. Strain the broth through a colander, then once more through a fine sieve. Store in the refrigerator for up to 5 days or in the freezer for up to 6 months.

Brussels Sprouts and Leeks with Lime-Ginger Butter

Lime and ginger brighten the deeply nutty character of well-browned Brussels sprouts and silky leeks.

• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 Tbs. minced peeled fresh ginger
• 1 medium lime, finely grated to yield 1 tsp. zest and squeezed to yield 1 Tbs. juice
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1-1/4 lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed, and quartered lengthwise if large, halved if small
• Kosher salt
• 3 medium leeks, white and light-green parts only, cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds, rings separated and washed well but not dried

Melt the butter in a small skillet or saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, swirling occasionally, until the milk solids turn light brown, about 5 minutes. Add the ginger and stir for a few seconds. Remove the pan from the heat, add the lime zest and juice, and swirl to combine.

Heat the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the Brussels sprouts and 1 tsp. salt; toss well to coat with oil.

Cover the pan with the lid ajar by about 1 inch. Turn the heat down to medium low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sprouts start to brown, 8 to 12 minutes. As the mixture cooks, you should hear a gentle sizzle.

Uncover, turn the heat down to low, add the leeks (with any water still clinging to them) and cook, stirring occasionally and then pushing the vegetables back into a single layer so that most have direct contact with the pan, until the leeks are limp and the sprouts are well browned, about 15 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat. Pour the butter mixture over the sprouts and leeks and stir, scraping the bottom of the pan and tossing well to coat. Season to taste with salt. Serve right away or let sit off the heat, partially covered, until ready to serve, and then reheat gently over medium-low heat.

Chicken Noodle Soup with Ginger, Shiitakes & Leeks

• 3/4 oz. dried shiitake mushrooms (about 12)    
• 5 bone-in chicken thighs (1-1/2 to 2 lb.), skinned, fat trimmed
• Kosher salt to taste
• 2 tsp. peanut or vegetable oil
• 1 large or 2 small leeks (white and light green parts only), sliced into thin half moons and washed
• 3 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
• 4 cups homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth
• 3 cups water
• 1/4 cup mirin or rice wine
• 2 Tbs. soy sauce
• 1 Tbs. rice vinegar
• 1 tsp. Asian chile paste
• 9 oz. fresh Chinese egg noodles
• 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 2 scallions, thinly sliced on the bias (about 1/3-cup)

Put the shiitakes in a bowl and cover with about 1-1/2-cups boiling water. Set a small plate or pot lid over the mushrooms to ensure they’re submerged, and soak until softened, about 20 min. Discard the mushroom stems and thinly slice the caps. Set a sieve lined with cheesecloth or a damp paper towel over a measuring cup and strain the soaking liquid through it. Reserve the liquid and shiitakes separately.

Rinse the chicken thighs and pat dry with paper towels; season with salt. Heat the oil in a heavy soup pot or Dutch oven over medium-low heat. When the oil is hot, add the chicken, cover the pot, and cook for about 10 min, turning once or twice. The aim is to sweat (not brown) the chicken until it loses its raw pink color on the outside and begins to exude some of its juices. Stir in the leeks, ginger, and sliced shiitakes; cover and cook until the leeks begin to soften, about another 5 min.

Add the broth, water, reserved mushroom soaking liquid, mirin, soy sauce, vinegar, and chile paste, and bring to a vigorous simmer over high heat. Adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook uncovered until the chicken is very tender and falling off the bone, about 45 min. Remove the chicken and set it aside.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Cook the noodles until just tender, about 3 min. Drain and rinse under cold water.

When the chicken is cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the bones and roughly chop or tear it into bite-size pieces. Return the meat to the soup. Add the sesame oil and season the soup to taste with salt and pepper.

Stir the noodles into the soup and let them heat through. Ladle the soup into bowls, top with the sliced scallions, and serve immediately.

Brussels Sprouts and Leeks with Lime-Ginger Butter

Lime and ginger brighten the deeply nutty character of well-browned Brussels sprouts and silky leeks.

• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 Tbs. minced peeled fresh ginger
• 1 medium lime, finely grated to yield 1 tsp. zest and squeezed to yield 1 Tbs. juice
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1-1/4 lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed, and quartered lengthwise if large, halved if small
• Kosher salt
• 3 medium leeks, white and light-green parts only, cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds, rings separated and washed well but not dried

Melt the butter in a small skillet or saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, swirling occasionally, until the milk solids turn light brown, about 5 minutes. Add the ginger and stir for a few seconds. Remove the pan from the heat, add the lime zest and juice, and swirl to combine.

Heat the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the Brussels sprouts and 1 tsp. salt; toss well to coat with oil.

Cover the pan with the lid ajar by about 1 inch. Turn the heat down to medium low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sprouts start to brown, 8 to 12 minutes. As the mixture cooks, you should hear a gentle sizzle.

Uncover, turn the heat down to low, add the leeks (with any water still clinging to them) and cook, stirring occasionally and then pushing the vegetables back into a single layer so that most have direct contact with the pan, until the leeks are limp and the sprouts are well browned, about 15 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat. Pour the butter mixture over the sprouts and leeks and stir, scraping the bottom of the pan and tossing well to coat. Season to taste with salt. Serve right away or let sit off the heat, partially covered, until ready to serve, and then reheat gently over medium-low heat.