Thursday, November 14, 2013

Spice-Cured Salmon with Beets & Horseradish Cream

Cured salmon (gravad lax) is quintessentially Scandinavian. I have a recipe for every season, but this is our Christmas favorite thanks to the festive warm spices and orange zest. I love the combination of tangy raw beets and spicy horseradish cream with the silky, citrusy salmon. It makes an elegant first course and a deliciously cool counterpoint to hot White Wine & Elderflower Gløgg. To save time, you can substitute cream-style prepared horseradish for the fresh horseradish cream, though the flavor won’t be the same.
For the salmon
  • 2 Tbs. black peppercorns
  • 2 Tbs. coriander seeds
  • 20 whole cloves
  • 20 green cardamom pods
  • 9 oz. kosher salt (about 1-3/4 cups Diamond Crystal or 1 cup Morton’s)
  • 1-1/2 cups granulated sugar
  • 2 Tbs. finely grated orange zest (from 2 oranges)
  • 1 4-lb. skin-on salmon fillet (preferably wild), belly flap trimmed and pin bones removed
For the beets and horseradish cream
  • 3 medium red beets, peeled, halved, and very thinly sliced
  • 1/4 cup cider vinegar
  • 3/4 cup crème fraîche
  • 3/4 cup finely grated fresh horseradish
  • 1-1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
For serving
  • Rye crispbreads, such as Finn Crisp or Wasa
  • Fresh dill sprigs
  • Lemon wedges

Cure the salmon

With a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, finely grind the peppercorns, coriander, cloves, and cardamom pods. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in the salt, sugar, and orange zest.

Arrange several long pieces of plastic wrap on a large rimmed baking sheet. Put the salmon on the plastic skin side down, cover the flesh evenly with the salt mixture, and wrap tightly. Refrigerate for 4 days.

Make the beets and horseradish cream

In a medium bowl, toss the beets with 2 Tbs. of the vinegar; let stand for at least 30 minutes.

In a small bowl, whisk the crème fraîche, horseradish, sugar, and the remaining 2 Tbs. vinegar; season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate.

Serve

Unwrap the salmon and rinse under cold running water to remove the curing mixture. Pat dry with paper towels. Transfer to a cutting board and very thinly slice the salmon (Using a long, thin, sharp knife, slice the salmon as thinly as you can. Starting at the wider end if the filet, hold the knife at a 45-degree angle and try for slices so thin that you can see the knife through the salmon). Slice only as much as you need. Garnish with the dill sprigs and serve with the beets, horseradish cream, crispbreads, and lemon wedges.

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