Spice-Cured Salmon with Beets & Horseradish Cream

Cured salmon (gravad lax) is quintessentially Scandinavian. I have a recipe for every season, but this is our Christmas favorite thanks to the festive warm spices and orange zest. I love the combination of tangy raw beets and spicy horseradish cream with the silky, citrusy salmon. It makes an elegant first course and a deliciously cool counterpoint to hot White Wine & Elderflower Gløgg. To save time, you can substitute cream-style prepared horseradish for the fresh horseradish cream, though the flavor won’t be the same.

For the salmon

• 2 Tbs. black peppercorns
• 2 Tbs. coriander seeds
• 20 whole cloves
• 20 green cardamom pods
• 9 oz. kosher salt (about 1-3/4 cups Diamond Crystal or 1 cup Morton’s)
• 1-1/2 cups granulated sugar
• 2 Tbs. finely grated orange zest (from 2 oranges)
• 1 4-lb. skin-on salmon fillet (preferably wild), belly flap trimmed and pin bones removed

For the beets and horseradish cream

• 3 medium red beets, peeled, halved, and very thinly sliced
• 1/4 cup cider vinegar
• 3/4 cup crème fraîche
• 3/4 cup finely grated fresh horseradish
• 1-1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For serving

• Rye crispbreads, such as Finn Crisp or Wasa
• Fresh dill sprigs
• Lemon wedges

Cure the salmon

With a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, finely grind the peppercorns, coriander, cloves, and cardamom pods. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in the salt, sugar, and orange zest.

Arrange several long pieces of plastic wrap on a large rimmed baking sheet. Put the salmon on the plastic skin side down, cover the flesh evenly with the salt mixture, and wrap tightly. Refrigerate for 4 days.

Make the beets and horseradish cream

In a medium bowl, toss the beets with 2 Tbs. of the vinegar; let stand for at least 30 minutes.

In a small bowl, whisk the crème fraîche, horseradish, sugar, and the remaining 2 Tbs. vinegar; season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate.

Serve

Unwrap the salmon and rinse under cold running water to remove the curing mixture. Pat dry with paper towels. Transfer to a cutting board and very thinly slice the salmon (Using a long, thin, sharp knife, slice the salmon as thinly as you can. Starting at the wider end if the filet, hold the knife at a 45-degree angle and try for slices so thin that you can see the knife through the salmon). Slice only as much as you need. Garnish with the dill sprigs and serve with the beets, horseradish cream, crispbreads, and lemon wedges.

Roasted Medley of Winter Roots

Vary this recipe according to the vegetables in your bin and the number of people you’re feeding. Just be sure to cut the vegetables so they roast at an even rate: Quick-cooking, higher-moisture roots like carrots, turnips, parsnips, and potatoes should be left larger, while dense, slow-cooking types like beets, celeriac, and rutabagas should be cut into smallish chunks. You should have about 1-1/2 to 2 cups each of parsnips, carrots, beets, and turnips. Red beets give the paler vegetables a pretty pink tinge, while golden beets, which are also nice, won’t bleed onto the other vegetables. In place of the butter and oil, you can use all olive oil or all clarified butter.

• 1/2 lb. parsnips, peeled and cut into 2x1/2-inch sticks
• 3 to 4 carrots, peeled and cut into 2x1/2-inch sticks
• 2 medium turnips, peeled and cut into large wedges
• 3 medium beets, peeled and cut into large (3/4-inch) dice
• 10 to 12 cloves garlic
• 12 to 15 small white boiling onions or 1 cup pearl onions (walnut-size), peeled
• 3 sprigs fresh rosemary or thyme
• 3 small bay leaves
• 2-1/2 Tbs. melted unsalted butter
• 1-1/2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oven to 400°F. Dump the vegetables into a large, low-sided roasting pan or onto a heavy, rimmed baking sheet; they should be just one layer deep. Toss in the herbs and drizzle on the butter and oil. Season with salt and pepper and toss to coat the vegetables evenly. Roast, tossing with a spatula a few times, until the vegetables are very tender and browned in spots, about 50 min. Discard the bay leaves. Serve warm.

Quick-Roasted Winter Vegetables

For weeknight meals, you can speed up the process of roasting winter vegetables by cutting them into thin slices. For a medley like this one, roast the different vegetables on separate baking sheets, so each one gets the right amount of cooking time.

For the vegetables: choose ONE of the following

• 1 lb. beets (about 3 medium), ends trimmed, sliced 3/16-inch thick
• 1 lb. carrots (about 5 large), peeeled, ends trimmed, sliced on a sharp diagonal 3/16-inch thick
• 1-1/2 lb. celery root, peeled, ends trimmed, halved, sliced 1/4-inch thick
• 1 lb. red onions (about 3 small), peeled, ends trimmed, sliced 1/4 to 3/8-inch thick
• 1 lb. parsnips (about 4 large), ends trimmed, peeled, sliced on a sharp diagonal 3/16-inch thick
• 1 lb. red potatoes (3 to 4 small), scrubbed, sliced 3/16-inch thick
• 1-1/2 lb. sweet potatoes (2 medium), scrubbed, sliced 1/4-inch thick
• 1 lb. turnips (about 3 small), scrubbed, ends trimmed, sliced 1/8- to 3/16-inch thick
• 1 lb. acorn or delicata squash (2 to 3 small), ends trimmed, cut horizontally into 1/2-inch rings (trim away seeds by running a paring knife around the inside of the rings)

For the seasoning:

• 2 Tbs. vegetable or olive oil
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• 1 Tbs. fresh thyme, oregano, or sage (roughly chopped) or rosemary (finely chopped)

Heat the oven to 450°F. Combine the sliced vegetables, oil, salt, and herbs in a bowl. Toss to coat thoroughly. Arrange the vegetables in a single layer without crowding on a large parchment- or foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Roast until soft on the inside (test with the tip of a knife or a wooden skewer) and browned on the outside (check the bottoms), 18 to 22 minutes. If you like, flip the vegetables halfway through cooking. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Beet Salad with Oregano, Pecans, and Goat Cheese

Beets and goat cheese are a classic pairing, but for a twist, try substituting blue cheese for the goat cheese and walnuts for the pecans.

• 8 to 10 medium beets (red, golden, or a combination)
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 Tbs. aged balsamic vinegar
• Sea salt or kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 oz. soft goat cheese, crumbled
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano
• 1/4 cup chopped lightly toasted pecans

If the beets have leaves and stems, trim off the leaves and all but 1/4 inch of the stems. Wash the beets. In a large saucepan or stockpot fit with a steamer basket, steam the beets until a paring knife enters them easily, 30 to 45 minutes, depending on their size. Set aside until cool enough to handle but still warm.

Peel the beets; the skin will rub right off. Trim and discard the tops and tails and cut the beets into thick wedges. Transfer the beets to a large serving bowl and drizzle with the olive oil and vinegar. Season with a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Sprinkle the goat cheese, oregano, and pecans over the beets and serve.

Grilled Goat Cheese Pizza with Figs, Beets, and Wilted Greens

Pizza may not be the first thing you think of for the grill, but it grills beautifully and is easily topped with a variety of meatless options. Here, grilled beets and their greens are surprisingly delicious toppings.

• 4 medium beets with tops, beets peeled and sliced 1/4 inch thick, and beet greens washed, stemmed, and thinly sliced
• 4 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 lb. pizza dough (white or whole wheat), at room temperature
• All-purpose flour, as needed
• Cornmeal, as needed
• 4 oz. goat cheese, softened
• 1/3 cup chopped dried figs
• 4 thin slices provolone (about 3 oz.)

Prepare a high gas or charcoal grill fire.


In a medium bowl, toss the beets with 2 tsp. of the oil and a light sprinkling of salt and pepper. In another medium bowl, toss the beet greens with the remaining 2 tsp. oil and a light sprinkling of salt and pepper.


Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Using a dough scraper or sharp knife, quarter the dough. Working with 1 piece at a time, stretch or roll each piece of dough into a rustic 12x3-1/2- to 4-inch oval. If the dough resists stretching, let it rest for a few minutes while you work on the other pieces. Transfer to large cornmeal-coated rimmed baking sheets.


Grill the beets, covered and turning once, until tender and spotty brown on both sides, 8 to 10 minutes. Return the beets to their bowl and set aside.


Reduce the grill heat to medium low (or let the fire die down). Arrange the pizzas on the grill perpendicular to the grate. Cover and grill, moving them around as needed to ensure even cooking, until the bottoms are spotty brown, 2 to 4 minutes. Return the crusts to the baking sheets grilled side up. Spread each with a quarter of the softened goat cheese and then top with the beet greens, grilled beets, and figs. Top with the provolone, breaking it into pieces so that most of each pizza is covered. Return the pizzas to the grill, cover and cook until the bottoms are spotty brown, the greens are wilted, and the cheese is melted, 2 to 3 minutes longer, Transfer the pizzas to a cutting board, cut into pieces, and serve.

Spiced Pickled Beets

Believe it or not, sliced pickled beets are great on a hamburger. In fact, in Australia pickled beets and even a fried egg are often served atop a burger. But if a beet burger isn’t your thing, they’re also nice in salads or sautéed in butter as a side dish.

• 8 to 9 medium-small beets, trimmed and scrubbed (about 2-1/4 lb.)
• 2 Tbs. olive or canola oil
• 1-1/2 cups red-wine vinegar
• One-half small red onion, thinly sliced lengthwise
• 1/3 cup light brown sugar
• 2 Tbs. kosher salt
• 1 tsp. yellow mustard seeds
• 1 tsp. fennel seeds
• 1 tsp. black peppercorns
• 1/2 tsp. whole allspice

Heat the oven to 400°F. Put the beets in a glass baking dish (8x8-inch works well). Drizzle them with the oil and 2 Tbs. water. Seal the pan tightly with aluminum foil and roast the beets until just soft enough to pierce with a fork, 50 to 55 min. Transfer the beets to a cutting board. When cool enough to touch, rub off their skins with paper towels and quarter them lengthwise (or cut them into sixths if they seem large).

Put the remaining ingredients and 3/4 cup water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil.

If quick pickling, pack the beets in a 2-qt. heat-resistant glass bowl or measuring cup. Pour the hot brine over the beets. Let cool to room temperature and then cover and refrigerate for at least 2 and up to 14 days.

If canning, pack the beets into clean, hot pint jars. Pour the hot brine over the beets, leaving 1/2-inch headspace. If you have extra brine, strain it and distribute the solids among the jars. Process for 10 minutes, following the directions in our "Canning Basics" guide. Store the pickles for at least 2 but preferably 7 days (or longer) before opening. Refrigerate after opening.

Grilled Beets with Lemon Crème Fraîche Dip

Grilling the beets in a foil packet with garlic, beer, and fresh thyme infuses them with extra flavor.

• 10 medium beets (about 4 lb.), trimmed and washed
• 1 head garlic, halved crosswise
• 3 fl. oz. (1/4 cup plus 2 Tbs.) pale ale
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 sprigs fresh thyme
• Kosher salt
• 1 cup crème fraîche
• 4 tsp. fresh lemon juice

In a large bowl, toss the beets and garlic with the ale, oil, thyme, and 2 Tbs. salt. Transfer to a large square of heavy-duty aluminum foil and seal into a packet.

Prepare a gas or charcoal grill fire for indirect cooking over low (300°F) heat. Grill the packet over the cool zone of the grill until the beets are completely tender when pierced with a paring knife, about 3 hours. (Alternatively, roast the beets in a 300°F oven for 3 to 3-1/2 hours.)


Remove the beets from the foil, peel them, and cut them into quarters. (Discard the garlic.) Transfer the beets to a serving bowl or platter.

In a small bowl, mix the crème fraîche and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt. Serve the beets warm or at room temperature with the lemon crème fraîche dip on the side.

Grilled Goat Cheese Pizza with Figs, Beets, and Wilted Greens

Pizza may not be the first thing you think of for the grill, but it grills beautifully and is easily topped with a variety of meatless options. Here, grilled beets and their greens are surprisingly delicious toppings.

• 4 medium beets with tops, beets peeled and sliced 1/4 inch thick, and beet greens washed, stemmed, and thinly sliced
• 4 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 lb. pizza dough (white or whole wheat), at room temperature
• All-purpose flour, as needed
• Cornmeal, as needed
• 4 oz. goat cheese, softened
• 1/3 cup chopped dried figs
• 4 thin slices provolone (about 3 oz.)

Prepare a high gas or charcoal grill fire.


In a medium bowl, toss the beets with 2 tsp. of the oil and a light sprinkling of salt and pepper. In another medium bowl, toss the beet greens with the remaining 2 tsp. oil and a light sprinkling of salt and pepper.


Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Using a dough scraper or sharp knife, quarter the dough. Working with 1 piece at a time, stretch or roll each piece of dough into a rustic 12x3-1/2- to 4-inch oval. If the dough resists stretching, let it rest for a few minutes while you work on the other pieces. Transfer to large cornmeal-coated rimmed baking sheets.


Grill the beets, covered and turning once, until tender and spotty brown on both sides, 8 to 10 minutes. Return the beets to their bowl and set aside.


Reduce the grill heat to medium low (or let the fire die down). Arrange the pizzas on the grill perpendicular to the grate. Cover and grill, moving them around as needed to ensure even cooking, until the bottoms are spotty brown, 2 to 4 minutes. Return the crusts to the baking sheets grilled side up. Spread each with a quarter of the softened goat cheese and then top with the beet greens, grilled beets, and figs. Top with the provolone, breaking it into pieces so that most of each pizza is covered. Return the pizzas to the grill, cover and cook until the bottoms are spotty brown, the greens are wilted, and the cheese is melted, 2 to 3 minutes longer, Transfer the pizzas to a cutting board, cut into pieces, and serve.

Spring Niçoise Salad

This salad is best in spring, when tiny, new potatoes and baby artichokes and beets are available at the market. It comes together quickly if you prepare some of the ingredients ahead of time. When roasting the potatoes, you can add a handful of garlic cloves and/or herbs if you like, such as thyme or savory. In place of the seared tuna, try large flakes of tuna confit or slow-roasted salmon.

• 6 baby beets, greens removed and washed
• 2-1⁄2 Tbs. red-wine vinegar; more as needed
• 1 lemon, halved, plus 1 Tbs. freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 8 baby artichokes, trimmed
• 1 cup plus 4 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1⁄4 cup dry white wine
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme
• Red pepper flakes
• Kosher salt
• 3⁄4 lb. new potatoes
• 1 clove garlic, pounded to a smooth paste with a pinch of salt
• 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
• 1 large egg yolk
• 1 lb. tuna, such as yellowfin or ahi, cut into even slices about 1 inch thick
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 not-so-hard-cooked eggs, peeled
• 1 handful arugula, preferably wild, or young dandelion (about 1 oz. total), washed and dried

Heat the oven to 350º F. Put the beets in a single layer in a baking dish. Add water to come about 1/2 inch up the side of the dish. Cover with foil and
roast until the beets can be pierced with a sharp knife, about 45 minutes. When cool, peel and cut them into 1/2-inch wedges, and toss with 1 Tbs. of the vinegar and salt to taste; let sit for 10 to 15 minutes.
 

Fill a large bowl with cold water. Squeeze the juice of the lemon halves into it. Trim off the top quarter of the artichokes and snap off the tough outer leaves. Using a small, sharp knife, peel the stem and the base of the artichokes, then cut them in half and scoop out the choke with a spoon. As you finish trimming each artichoke, drop it into the bowl of water and lemon juice to prevent browning.

Just before cooking, drain the artichokes well. Warm a medium skillet over medium heat. Add 1⁄4 cup olive oil, the artichokes, wine, 1⁄2 cup water, the thyme, and a pinch of red pepper flakes. Season with salt and simmer, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until the artichokes are tender when pierced at the base with a small, sharp knife, 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the size of the artichokes. If the liquid evaporates before the artichokes are tender, add a splash more water. Let cool at room temperature and then taste for salt.

Put the potatoes in a shallow baking dish or pan just large enough to hold them in a single layer. Drizzle with 1 Tbs. oil, season with a generous amount of salt, and toss well. Add a splash of water (just enough to create a little steam as the potatoes cook). Cover tightly with aluminum
foil and bake until the potatoes can be easily pierced with a small, sharp knife, 30 to 40 minutes, depending on the size of the potatoes. Remove from the oven, vent the foil, and let cool at room temperature.

To make the vinaigrette, combine the garlic, mustard, 1-1/2 Tbs. vinegar, and 1 Tbs. lemon juice in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the egg yolk, and then slowly whisk in 3⁄4 cup oil. Thin the vinaigrette with a few drops of cool water if necessary (you want it thin enough to drizzle nicely.) Taste and adjust with more salt or vinegar if necessary. Set aside.

Shortly before serving, halve or quarter the potatoes (depending on size and preference) and season with about 1-1⁄2 Tbs. of the vinaigrette. Set aside.

Season the tuna on both sides with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Warm a large skillet, preferably cast iron, over high heat until very hot. Add 3 Tbs. oil and place the tuna in the skillet. Cook, without moving, until seared and nicely browned, about 2 to 3 minutes, depending on the thickness of the tuna. Turn and cook on the opposite side for another 2 to 3 minutes. (The tuna should be pink in the center.) Transfer to a plate and set aside.

Drain any liquid from the artichokes and discard the thyme. Cut the eggs into quarters and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Scatter about half of the arugula around a large platter or individual plates. Tuck the potatoes, artichokes, beets, and eggs in and around the greens. Using your hands, break the tuna into rustic pieces, or slice it with a knife and nestle it in and around the other ingredients. Drizzle about 1⁄4 cup vinaigrette over the platter, or about a Tbs. over individual portions, and serve immediately, passing the remaining vinaigrette at the table.

Beet Green and Bulgur Soup with Poached Eggs

This rustic soup is made with just a few ingredients, but don’t let its simplicity fool you: It’s full-flavored and remarkably comforting. It’s also perfect for a weeknight. Bulgur, which is simply wheat kernels that have been steamed, dried, and crushed, cooks about as quickly as rice. Be sure to use a pot that’s at least 10 inches wide; otherwise, the poached eggs will sink deep into the soup and you’ll have a hard time telling when they’re done.

• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium yellow onion, chopped
• 4 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 2 quarts lower-salt chicken or vegetable broth
• 8 cups lightly packed stemmed beet greens, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 3/4 cup whole-grain, quick-cooking bulgur (such as Bob’s Red Mill)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 large eggs
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Heat the olive oil in a large pot that’s about 10 inches wide over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often until golden-brown, about 10 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the broth, raise the heat to medium high, and bring to a simmer. Stir in the beet greens and bulgur. Cover and simmer vigorously, adjusting the heat as needed, until the greens and bulgur are tender, about 24 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Adjust the heat as needed to achieve a gentle simmer. Crack one of the eggs into a small bowl and pour it onto the soup near the edge of the pot. Repeat with the remaining eggs, positioning them around the perimeter of the pot. Spoon hot broth over the eggs and cook until the whites are set but the yolks are still soft, about 3 minutes.

Carefully ladle the soup and eggs into bowls. Sprinkle with the Parmigiano and serve.

Red Velvet Cupcakes with Orange Buttercream

These darling magenta cupcakes are brilliantly colored all the way through. No food coloring is used here. The color comes from puréeing freshly roasted beets (use canned beets and the color will be drab and faded). But roasting beets is easy, and you can measure and prepare the rest of the ingredients for the cupcakes and buttercream while they roast.

For the beet purée

• 3 medium or 2 large beets, trimmed

For the cupcakes

• 2 cups sifted cake flour
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/4 tsp. kosher or fine sea salt
• 1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1 cup plus 2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 3 large eggs, beaten
• 2/3 cup canola or other neutral oil
• 3/4 tsp pure vanilla extract

For the orange buttercream

• 1-1/4 cups unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 2 cups confectioners’ sugar
• 1 Tbs. heavy whipping cream
• 1/2 tsp. pure orange oil
• 1/4 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 2 to 3 Tbs. fresh orange juice

Tip:

Pure orange oil is an essential oil cold-pressed from the rind of oranges. Do not confuse it with pure orange extract, which is alcohol flavored with orange oil. Look for pure it in the baking section of natural foods stores or at baking supply stores. Two common brands are Boyajian and Frontier.

Make the beet purée

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350˚F.

Gently scrub the beets under cool running water to remove any dirt. Pat dry. Set each beet in the center of a square of aluminum foil large enough to enclose it and wrap tightly. Arrange the wrapped beets, not touching, on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast the beets until tender, 1 to 1-1/2 hours, depending on their size. The beets are done when a paring knife easily pierces to the center of each beet. (If the beets are not the same size, remove the smaller beets from the oven when tender and continue to roast the larger beets until done.) Remove the pan from the oven and place on a wire rack to cool.

When the beets are cool enough to handle, unwrap and remove from the foil. Wearing disposable gloves, use a paring knife to trim the stem and root ends. Using paper towels, rub each beet to remove the skin.

Finely chop the roasted beets and then purée them in a food processor, letting the machine run for a couple of minutes until the purée is completely smooth. You should have 1-1/2 cups beet purée.

Make the cupcakes

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Line a 12-cup standard muffin pan with paper liners.

Sift together the flour, baking powder, salt, and cinnamon. Set aside.

In a large bowl, stir together the beet purée, granulated sugar, eggs, canola oil, and vanilla. Using a rubber spatula, stir in one-third of the flour mixture, continuing to stir just until the flour disappears. Do not beat or overmix. Repeat, adding the remaining flour mixture in two batches.

Spoon the batter into the prepared muffin cups, dividing the batter evenly and filling each cup almost to the top of the liner. Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of a cupcake comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Let the cupcakes cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Then carefully release the cupcakes from the pan and let cool completely on the rack, about 1 hour.

Make the buttercream

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or in a medium bowl using a handheld mixer, cream the butter on low speed until creamy and smooth. Add the confectioners’ sugar, cream, orange oil, and vanilla and beat on low speed until incorporated, about 2 minutes. Add the orange juice, a little at a time, until the buttercream is fluffy and smooth.

Spread a thick layer of buttercream on the top of each cooled cupcake, swirling it to create a decorative finish. Alternatively, transfer the frosting to a pastry bag fitted with a medium star tip and pipe the frosting on the top of each cupcake.

Beet Salad with Oregano, Pecans, and Goat Cheese

Beets and goat cheese are a classic pairing, but for a twist, try substituting blue cheese for the goat cheese and walnuts for the pecans.

• 8 to 10 medium beets (red, golden, or a combination)
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 Tbs. aged balsamic vinegar
• Sea salt or kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 oz. soft goat cheese, crumbled
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano
• 1/4 cup chopped lightly toasted pecans

If the beets have leaves and stems, trim off the leaves and all but 1/4 inch of the stems. Wash the beets. In a large saucepan or stockpot fit with a steamer basket, steam the beets until a paring knife enters them easily, 30 to 45 minutes, depending on their size. Set aside until cool enough to handle but still warm.

Peel the beets; the skin will rub right off. Trim and discard the tops and tails and cut the beets into thick wedges. Transfer the beets to a large serving bowl and drizzle with the olive oil and vinegar. Season with a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Sprinkle the goat cheese, oregano, and pecans over the beets and serve.

Autumn Panzanella Salad

Panzanella is mainly known as a summer salad, with juicy tomatoes and cucumbers, but this warm autumn version may just change your thinking. It’s filled with hearty seeded bread croutons, creamy roasted squash, golden and red beets, crunchy slices of apple, and pumpkin seeds, all dressed with pumpkin oil and apple cider vinaigrette.

For the salad

• 6 (3/4-inch-thick) slices rustic seeded bread, cubed
• 3 Tbs. olive oil
• 5 red baby beets, peeled and quartered
• 5 golden baby beets, peeled and quartered
• 2 pinches fine sea salt
• 1/2 medium kabocha, red kuri, or butternut squash, peeled, sliced, and seeds removed
• 1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes
• 1 medium Granny Smith or Golden Delicious apple, cored and thinly sliced
• 1 cup beet greens or any other leafy green
• 1/4 cup raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
• 1 Tbs. fresh sage leaves
• 1 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
• 1 tsp. fresh oregano leaves

For the vinaigrette

• 1 tsp. grainy Dijon mustard
• 2 tsp. apple cider vinegar
• 2 tsp. pumpkin oil
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil
• 1 tsp. fine sea salt

Make the salad

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Toss the cubed bread and 1 Tbs. of the olive oil on a baking sheet. Bake for 20 minutes, until dry.

Increase the oven temperature to 400°F. Toss the beets with 1 Tbs. of the olive oil and a pinch of salt on a deep baking pan. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and bake for 45 minutes or until fork-tender.

Toss the sliced squash with the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil, a pinch of salt, and the red pepper flakes. Bake on the lower rack of the oven for 20 minutes or until fork-tender.

In a large bowl, toss together the croutons, roasted beets, roasted squash, sliced apple, beet greens, pumpkin seeds, sage, thyme, and oregano.

Make the vinaigrette

Whisk together the mustard, vinegar, pumpkin oil, olive oil, and salt. Pour the vinaigrette over the warm salad, toss, let sit for 10 minutes so the bread absorbs the juices, and serve.

Grilled Beets with Lemon Crème Fraîche Dip

Grilling the beets in a foil packet with garlic, beer, and fresh thyme infuses them with extra flavor.

• 10 medium beets (about 4 lb.), trimmed and washed
• 1 head garlic, halved crosswise
• 3 fl. oz. (1/4 cup plus 2 Tbs.) pale ale
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 sprigs fresh thyme
• Kosher salt
• 1 cup crème fraîche
• 4 tsp. fresh lemon juice

In a large bowl, toss the beets and garlic with the ale, oil, thyme, and 2 Tbs. salt. Transfer to a large square of heavy-duty aluminum foil and seal into a packet.

Prepare a gas or charcoal grill fire for indirect cooking over low (300°F) heat. Grill the packet over the cool zone of the grill until the beets are completely tender when pierced with a paring knife, about 3 hours. (Alternatively, roast the beets in a 300°F oven for 3 to 3-1/2 hours.)


Remove the beets from the foil, peel them, and cut them into quarters. (Discard the garlic.) Transfer the beets to a serving bowl or platter.

In a small bowl, mix the crème fraîche and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt. Serve the beets warm or at room temperature with the lemon crème fraîche dip on the side.

Jewel Roasted Vegetables

I call this recipe, excerpted from the cookbook The Food You Crave, Jewel Roasted Vegetables because the chunky colors look like gems on the plate: ruby red beets, deep orange carrots, and emerald Brussels sprouts.

• 4 medium beets
• 1-1/2 pounds carrots
• 1-1/2 pounds Brussels sprouts
• 8 large cloves garlic, left unpeeled
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
• 1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Put the beets into a small baking dish and rub them with 1 tablespoon of the oil. Cover the dish with aluminum foil and roast for 30 minutes.

While the beets are roasting, peel and cut the carrots into 1-inch-thick rounds, and trim the Brussels sprouts and cut them in half lengthwise. Put the carrots, sprouts, and garlic cloves in a large baking dish and toss with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. 

After the beets have been cooking for 30 minutes, add the large pan of vegetables to the oven separately, and cook everything for 1 hour more, stirring the vegetable mixture once or twice.

Remove the beets from the oven and transfer them to a cutting board to cool. Stir the thyme into the carrot and Brussels sprout mixture and let it continue to cook for another 10 minutes while the beets are cooled and cut. 

When the beets are cool enough to handle, after about 5 minutes, peel, then cut them into 1-inch chunks. Remove the other vegetables from the oven, toss with the beets, season with salt and pepper, and serve.

Beet Salad with Oregano, Pecans, and Goat Cheese

Beets and goat cheese are a classic pairing, but for a twist, try substituting blue cheese for the goat cheese and walnuts for the pecans.

• 8 to 10 medium beets (red, golden, or a combination)
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 Tbs. aged balsamic vinegar
• Sea salt or kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 oz. soft goat cheese, crumbled
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano
• 1/4 cup chopped lightly toasted pecans

If the beets have leaves and stems, trim off the leaves and all but 1/4 inch of the stems. Wash the beets. In a large saucepan or stockpot fit with a steamer basket, steam the beets until a paring knife enters them easily, 30 to 45 minutes, depending on their size. Set aside until cool enough to handle but still warm.

Peel the beets; the skin will rub right off. Trim and discard the tops and tails and cut the beets into thick wedges. Transfer the beets to a large serving bowl and drizzle with the olive oil and vinegar. Season with a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Sprinkle the goat cheese, oregano, and pecans over the beets and serve.

Matzo Ball Soup with Root Vegetables

This matzo ball soup is made with light and tender dumplings and pumped up with lots of flavorful vegetables that would make any grandmother proud.

• 1 cup matzo meal
• 4 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 2 Tbs. rendered duck or chicken fat
• 3 oz. club soda
• 2 tsp. Kosher salt, plus more for seasoning
• A few cranks black pepper, plus more for seasoning
• 1/8 tsp. caraway seeds, toasted and ground
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 6 pearl onions, halved lengthwise
• 1 rib celery, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 3 baby or Thumbelina carrots, quartered lengthwise
• 2 Tokyo turnips, halved lengthwise (optional or other turnips, cut into 1/2-inch pieces)
• 3 cups chicken stock
• 2 roasted baby beets, halved lengthwise (optional)
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh Italian parsley

In a medium bowl, combine the eggs, fat, and soda water and then add the matzo meal. Add the 2 teaspoons salt, a few cranks of black pepper, and the ground caraway. Stir all the ingredients together lightly with a spatula or a wooden spoon. Set aside in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Form 1- to 2-inch balls of the mixture with your hands or a scoop. Do not compress or overwork the mixture or they will be tough. Decrease the heat to medium-high and drop the balls into the simmering water and cook for 25 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain, and set aside on a plate.

For the soup, add the vegetable oil to a sauce pot set over high heat. Decrease the heat to low and add the pearl onions, celery, carrots, and turnips, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the stock and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and decrease the heat to a simmer. Add the matzo balls to the soup and simmer for 5 minutes, or until the vegetable are tender.

To serve, spoon a few matzo balls into soup bowls and divide the vegetables and soup between the bowls. Add a couple of the roasted beet halves to each bowl and sprinkle with the parsley. Serve immediately.

Farfalle with Golden Beets, Beet Greens, and Prosciutto

On a cool autumn evening, this hearty pasta dish really hits the spot. Sweet beet roots are complemented by salty prosciutto and rich Parmigiano-Reggiano; beet greens add great texture. If golden beets are unavailable, you can use red beets, but your pasta will turn pink.

• Kosher salt
• 2 bunches golden beets with healthy green tops
• 6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 medium yellow onions, quartered lengthwise and sliced crosswise 1/8 inch thick
• 6 oz. 1/4-inch-diced prosciutto
• 8 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 1 cup lower-salt chicken broth
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 2 tsp. minced fresh rosemary
• 1 lb. farfalle
• 3/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving
• Coarsely ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat.

Meanwhile, trim, peel, and halve the beets; then slice them into 1/4-inch-thick half-moons. Remove the stems from the greens and discard. Wash the greens, spin them dry, and slice into 1-inch strips.

Heat 2 Tbs. olive oil in a 6-quart Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onions and prosciutto and cook, stirring often, until the onion is tender and browned, about 10 minutes.Add the garlic and stir for 2 minutes. Push the onion mixture to the sides and pour 2 Tbs. olive oil into the empty space. Add the beets and cook until just tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the broth, wine, and rosemary and simmer until the liquid evaporates and the beets are completely tender, 10 to 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, boil the farfalle until al dente, about 1 minute less than package directions. Drain the pasta, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water.

Scatter the beet greens over the beet mixture, drizzle with the remaining 2 Tbs. olive oil, cover, and cook until the greens are tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in the pasta and Parmigiano-Reggiano. If needed, add enough of the pasta cooking liquid to moisten. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with more Parmigiano.

Matzo Ball Soup with Root Vegetables

This matzo ball soup is made with light and tender dumplings and pumped up with lots of flavorful vegetables that would make any grandmother proud.

• 1 cup matzo meal
• 4 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 2 Tbs. rendered duck or chicken fat
• 3 oz. club soda
• 2 tsp. Kosher salt, plus more for seasoning
• A few cranks black pepper, plus more for seasoning
• 1/8 tsp. caraway seeds, toasted and ground
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 6 pearl onions, halved lengthwise
• 1 rib celery, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 3 baby or Thumbelina carrots, quartered lengthwise
• 2 Tokyo turnips, halved lengthwise (optional or other turnips, cut into 1/2-inch pieces)
• 3 cups chicken stock
• 2 roasted baby beets, halved lengthwise (optional)
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh Italian parsley

In a medium bowl, combine the eggs, fat, and soda water and then add the matzo meal. Add the 2 teaspoons salt, a few cranks of black pepper, and the ground caraway. Stir all the ingredients together lightly with a spatula or a wooden spoon. Set aside in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Form 1- to 2-inch balls of the mixture with your hands or a scoop. Do not compress or overwork the mixture or they will be tough. Decrease the heat to medium-high and drop the balls into the simmering water and cook for 25 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain, and set aside on a plate.

For the soup, add the vegetable oil to a sauce pot set over high heat. Decrease the heat to low and add the pearl onions, celery, carrots, and turnips, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the stock and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and decrease the heat to a simmer. Add the matzo balls to the soup and simmer for 5 minutes, or until the vegetable are tender.

To serve, spoon a few matzo balls into soup bowls and divide the vegetables and soup between the bowls. Add a couple of the roasted beet halves to each bowl and sprinkle with the parsley. Serve immediately.

Quick-Roasted Winter Vegetables

For weeknight meals, you can speed up the process of roasting winter vegetables by cutting them into thin slices. For a medley like this one, roast the different vegetables on separate baking sheets, so each one gets the right amount of cooking time.

For the vegetables: choose ONE of the following

• 1 lb. beets (about 3 medium), ends trimmed, sliced 3/16-inch thick
• 1 lb. carrots (about 5 large), peeeled, ends trimmed, sliced on a sharp diagonal 3/16-inch thick
• 1-1/2 lb. celery root, peeled, ends trimmed, halved, sliced 1/4-inch thick
• 1 lb. red onions (about 3 small), peeled, ends trimmed, sliced 1/4 to 3/8-inch thick
• 1 lb. parsnips (about 4 large), ends trimmed, peeled, sliced on a sharp diagonal 3/16-inch thick
• 1 lb. red potatoes (3 to 4 small), scrubbed, sliced 3/16-inch thick
• 1-1/2 lb. sweet potatoes (2 medium), scrubbed, sliced 1/4-inch thick
• 1 lb. turnips (about 3 small), scrubbed, ends trimmed, sliced 1/8- to 3/16-inch thick
• 1 lb. acorn or delicata squash (2 to 3 small), ends trimmed, cut horizontally into 1/2-inch rings (trim away seeds by running a paring knife around the inside of the rings)

For the seasoning:

• 2 Tbs. vegetable or olive oil
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• 1 Tbs. fresh thyme, oregano, or sage (roughly chopped) or rosemary (finely chopped)

Heat the oven to 450°F. Combine the sliced vegetables, oil, salt, and herbs in a bowl. Toss to coat thoroughly. Arrange the vegetables in a single layer without crowding on a large parchment- or foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Roast until soft on the inside (test with the tip of a knife or a wooden skewer) and browned on the outside (check the bottoms), 18 to 22 minutes. If you like, flip the vegetables halfway through cooking. Serve warm or at room temperature.