Cannellini Beans with Tuna and Pickled Cipollini Onions

Crunchy pickled onions, smooth, starchy beans, and luscious oil-packed tuna are delicious together in this ready-in-minutes dish. Serve it alongside roast chicken or turkey, or as a light lunch with crusty bread.

• 2 (15-oz.) cans cannellini beans
• 1 (6- to 7-oz.) jar or can imported tuna (packed in olive oil)
• 10 to 12 Pickled Cipollini Onions with Chile and Cloves, thickly sliced
• Juice from 1/2 lemon
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Drain and rinse the beans. Transfer them to a serving bowl.


Drain the tuna, flake, and add it to the beans.


Toss the onions with the bean mixture. Add lemon juice, salt, and pepper to taste. Stir in the parsley and serve.

Fettuccine with Tuna, Lemon & Fried Capers

Don't be afraid to pair tuna with strong flavors that can stand up to it. In this recipe, crisp capers, thin slivers of garlic, and bright strips of lemon zest do just that. And in order to bring out the nutty flavor of the pasta, add a couple of teaspoons of kosher salt to the cooking water. The water should taste salty, like the ocean.

• Kosher salt
• 1 lemon, scrubbed
• 1/4 cup plus 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more for drizzling
• 1/4 cup small (nonpareil) capers, rinsed, drained, and patted dry
• 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 1 12-oz. can or 2 6-oz. cans solid white tuna in water, drained well
• 1/8 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
• 3/4 lb. dried fettuccine
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 3 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil.

Using a zester tool (called a channel knife), zest the lemon into thin strips, or, using a vegetable peeler, shave off the zest, then slice into very thin strips. Juice the lemon to get 2 Tbs. juice.

Heat 1/4 cup of the oil in a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan over medium heat. Add the capers and cook until they start to brown and get crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the lemon zest and cook until it starts to crisp and curl up, about 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the capers and lemon zest to a plate lined with a paper towel—it’s fine if a few capers remain in the pan.

Reduce the heat to medium low, add the garlic to the remaining oil in the pan and cook, stirring, until it browns lightly but doesn’t burn, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tuna and red pepper flakes and cook until the tuna just heats through, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Meanwhile, cook the fettuccine in the boiling salted water, stirring often, until it’s just tender to the tooth (see the package for cooking time). Reserve 1/2 cup of the pasta water and drain the pasta.

Return the sauté pan to medium heat. Add the drained pasta, 1/4 cup of the reserved pasta water, 2 Tbs. of the lemon juice, and the remaining 2 Tbs. olive oil. Cook, tossing and stirring, for 1 to 2 minutes to blend the flavors. If the pasta isn’t tender, add the remaining cooking water and continue to cook and stir until done. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and more lemon juice.

Serve immediately, drizzled with a little olive oil and sprinkled with the capers, lemon strips, parsley, and a few grinds of black pepper.

Grilled Tuna with Sun-Dried Tomato, Olive & Caper Relish

This Mediterranean-inspired relish pairs nicely with most grilled fish, so if tuna isn't your favorite, substitute salmon, halibut, or swordfish steaks. For a shortcut, pulse the tomatoes and olives a few times in a food processor and then add the remaining ingredients and pulse to combine.

For the relish:

• 1/2 cup finely chopped oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained
• 1/4 cup finely chopped oil-cured olives
• 5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2-1/2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
• 1 Tbs. chopped capers
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 Tbs. minced shallot
• 2 tsp. minced fresh oregano
• 1/2 tsp. finely grated orange zest
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the tuna:

• 1-1/2 Tbs. olive oil; more for brushing the grill
• Four to six 1-1/4-inch-thick tuna steaks (6 to 8 oz. each)
• 1 tsp. kosher salt

Make the relish:

Combine all the ingredients, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. (The saltiness of the ingredients in this relish will vary, so make sure to taste before seasoning.)

Grill the tuna:

Clean and oil the grates on a gas grill and heat the grill to medium high, or prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire.

Meanwhile, generously coat both sides of the tuna with the oil and season both sides with salt. Let the tuna sit at room temperature for 15 minutes (while the grill heats). Grill the tuna steaks directly over the heat source (covered on a gas grill, uncovered on a charcoal grill), without touching, until they have good grill marks, 2 to 4 minutes. Flip the steaks and grill until the second sides have good grill marks and the fish is done to your liking, another 2 to 4 minutes. (Check for doneness by slicing into one of the thicker pieces.) Serve immediately, topped with the relish.

Penne Rigate with Olives, Roasted Peppers, and Tuna

This simple sauce is packed with the flavors of southern Italy—briny olives, sweet peppers, and rich tuna. Feel free to improvise by adding capers or anchovies, or by substituting canned sardines for the tuna.

• Kosher salt
• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed
• 1 cup black olives, such as Gaeta or Kalamata, or a mix of black and green, pitted and coarsely chopped
• 1/2 cup diced jarred roasted red peppers
• 2 Tbs. coarsely chopped sun-dried tomatoes
• 1 14.5-oz. can diced tomatoes, including juice
• 2 5-oz. cans tuna in olive oil, drained
• 2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 lb. dried penne rigate or other short, sturdy pasta

Bring a 6- to 8-quart pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat.

Heat the oil and garlic in a 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Cook for 2 minutes, pressing on the garlic with a fork to release its fragrance; don’t let it brown.

Stir in the olives, peppers, and sun-dried tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until heated through, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juice and use the fork to crush them a bit. Raise the heat to medium high and bring to a simmer. Lower the heat to medium low and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes.

Add the tuna, breaking it up with the fork, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the garlic and stir in the parsley.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta until al dente. Reserve 1/2 cup of the pasta water, then drain the pasta. Add the pasta to the sauce and toss to coat, adding a little of the reserved cooking water to moisten if necessary.

Southwestern Tuna with a Grilled Summer Salad

• 2 large cloves garlic, minced (about 1 Tbs.)
• 3 Tbs. plus 2 tsp. olive oil
• 1 tsp. ground cumin
• 1 tsp. fresh lime juice, plus lime wedges for serving
• Kosher salt and coarsely ground black pepper
• Cayenne
• 1-1/2 lb. 1-inch-thick tuna steaks (2 steaks about 10 oz. each)
• 1-1/2 lb. squash (about 3 medium zucchini or summer squash)
• 2 red bell peppers
• 1 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro

Heat a gas grill to medium high or prepare a mediumhot charcoal fire.

In a small bowl, mix half of the garlic, 2 tsp. of the olive oil, the cumin, lime juice, 1/2 tsp. salt, 1/2 tsp. pepper, and a large pinch of cayenne. Spread an equal amount of the rub on both sides of the tuna and let it sit for 5 minutes.

Trim the ends of each squash and cut lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Core and seed the red peppers and cut each into 4 pieces. Pile the squash and red peppers into a bowl. Drizzle with the remaining 3 Tbs. olive oil and sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper and another large pinch of cayenne. Toss to coat evenly.

Set the tuna steaks on the hottest part of the grill and fan the peppers and squash around them. Turning the vegetables occasionally, grill the tuna 3 minutes per side for medium rare or until cooked to the doneness you like. Transfer the tuna to a clean plate and tent loosely with foil. Continue grilling and turning the vegetables until they’re just tender, another 2 to 4 minutes, and transfer to a cutting board. Scrape the pepper skins off with a paring knife, if you like. Coarsely chop the vegetables and put them back into the same bowl in which they were tossed. Sprinkle the balsamic vinegar, half the cilantro, and the remaining garlic over the vegetables and toss to coat evenly. Taste for salt and pepper. Cut the tuna steaks into four portions.

Niçoise-Style Salad with Soft-Cooked Egg

This simplified version of the classic replaces the hard-boiled egg with a soft-cooked one, which means the yolk can mix easily (and deliciously) with the other ingredients. Any leftover dressing will keep for a week in the fridge.

• 2 large eggs
  
  
• 1-1/2 Tbs. white wine vinegar
• 1 Tbs. minced shallot
• 1 Tbs. heavy cream
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3 Tbs. olive oil
• 1 Tbs. capers, drained
• 4 oz. spring mix lettuces (4 lightly packed cups)
• 2 5-oz. jars or cans light tuna packed in olive oil, preferably Italian, drained and flaked
• 2/3 cup jarred roasted red pepper strips, rinsed
• 1/4 cup pitted Kalamata olives, halved

Bring a 2-quart saucepan of water to a boil. Lower the eggs into the water, reduce the heat so the water is gently boiling, and then cover and cook for 5 minutes. Transfer the eggs to a bowl of ice water and let cool for at least 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the vinegar, shallot, cream, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper in a small bowl. Whisk in the oil in a slow stream until emulsified. Stir in the capers.

Toss the lettuce with just enough dressing to coat, and then divide it between two dinner plates. Arrange the tuna, roasted red pepper, and olives on top of the greens.

Carefully peel the eggs, place one on each salad, and gently cut in half.

Rewhisk the remaining dressing, drizzle a little over the salad, and serve.

Grilled Tuna and Provolone Sandwiches with Salsa Verde

For this panini-style sandwich, steer clear of tuna packed in water; instead, choose good-quality tuna packed in olive oil.

• 1/2 cup packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
• 1/4 cup plus 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
• 1 Tbs. capers, drained and rinsed
• 1 small clove garlic, chopped
• 1 anchovy fillet, rinsed and chopped
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 8 thin slices provolone (about 4 oz.)
• 4 4-inch squares focaccia (or substitute any soft roll), split in half
• 12 oz. tuna packed in olive oil, drained well

Heat a panini or sandwich press according to the manufacturer’s instructions. (Alternatively, heat a nonstick grill pan over medium-high heat.)

While the press is heating, combine the parsley, 1/4 cup of the olive oil, lemon juice, capers, garlic, anchovy, and a few grinds of pepper in a blender and blend until smooth.

Lay the cheese on the bottoms of the focaccia. Spoon the tuna over the cheese. Spread some of the salsa verde over the inside tops of the focaccia and put the tops on the sandwiches salsa verde side down. Brush both sides of the sandwiches with the remaining 2 tsp. oil.

Put the sandwiches on the press salsa verde side up, pull the top down, and cook until browned and crisp and the cheese is melted, 5 to 7 minutes, depending on how hot your machine is. (If using a grill pan, put a heavy pan on top of the sandwiches and cook, turning the sandwiches over once.) Carefully remove from the press and serve.

Grilled Tuna with Sun-Dried Tomato, Olive & Caper Relish

This Mediterranean-inspired relish pairs nicely with most grilled fish, so if tuna isn't your favorite, substitute salmon, halibut, or swordfish steaks. For a shortcut, pulse the tomatoes and olives a few times in a food processor and then add the remaining ingredients and pulse to combine.

For the relish:

• 1/2 cup finely chopped oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained
• 1/4 cup finely chopped oil-cured olives
• 5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2-1/2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
• 1 Tbs. chopped capers
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 Tbs. minced shallot
• 2 tsp. minced fresh oregano
• 1/2 tsp. finely grated orange zest
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the tuna:

• 1-1/2 Tbs. olive oil; more for brushing the grill
• Four to six 1-1/4-inch-thick tuna steaks (6 to 8 oz. each)
• 1 tsp. kosher salt

Make the relish:

Combine all the ingredients, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. (The saltiness of the ingredients in this relish will vary, so make sure to taste before seasoning.)

Grill the tuna:

Clean and oil the grates on a gas grill and heat the grill to medium high, or prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire.

Meanwhile, generously coat both sides of the tuna with the oil and season both sides with salt. Let the tuna sit at room temperature for 15 minutes (while the grill heats). Grill the tuna steaks directly over the heat source (covered on a gas grill, uncovered on a charcoal grill), without touching, until they have good grill marks, 2 to 4 minutes. Flip the steaks and grill until the second sides have good grill marks and the fish is done to your liking, another 2 to 4 minutes. (Check for doneness by slicing into one of the thicker pieces.) Serve immediately, topped with the relish.

Spring Niçoise Salad

This salad is best in spring, when tiny, new potatoes and baby artichokes and beets are available at the market. It comes together quickly if you prepare some of the ingredients ahead of time. When roasting the potatoes, you can add a handful of garlic cloves and/or herbs if you like, such as thyme or savory. In place of the seared tuna, try large flakes of tuna confit or slow-roasted salmon.

• 6 baby beets, greens removed and washed
• 2-1⁄2 Tbs. red-wine vinegar; more as needed
• 1 lemon, halved, plus 1 Tbs. freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 8 baby artichokes, trimmed
• 1 cup plus 4 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1⁄4 cup dry white wine
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme
• Red pepper flakes
• Kosher salt
• 3⁄4 lb. new potatoes
• 1 clove garlic, pounded to a smooth paste with a pinch of salt
• 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
• 1 large egg yolk
• 1 lb. tuna, such as yellowfin or ahi, cut into even slices about 1 inch thick
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 not-so-hard-cooked eggs, peeled
• 1 handful arugula, preferably wild, or young dandelion (about 1 oz. total), washed and dried

Heat the oven to 350º F. Put the beets in a single layer in a baking dish. Add water to come about 1/2 inch up the side of the dish. Cover with foil and
roast until the beets can be pierced with a sharp knife, about 45 minutes. When cool, peel and cut them into 1/2-inch wedges, and toss with 1 Tbs. of the vinegar and salt to taste; let sit for 10 to 15 minutes.
 

Fill a large bowl with cold water. Squeeze the juice of the lemon halves into it. Trim off the top quarter of the artichokes and snap off the tough outer leaves. Using a small, sharp knife, peel the stem and the base of the artichokes, then cut them in half and scoop out the choke with a spoon. As you finish trimming each artichoke, drop it into the bowl of water and lemon juice to prevent browning.

Just before cooking, drain the artichokes well. Warm a medium skillet over medium heat. Add 1⁄4 cup olive oil, the artichokes, wine, 1⁄2 cup water, the thyme, and a pinch of red pepper flakes. Season with salt and simmer, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until the artichokes are tender when pierced at the base with a small, sharp knife, 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the size of the artichokes. If the liquid evaporates before the artichokes are tender, add a splash more water. Let cool at room temperature and then taste for salt.

Put the potatoes in a shallow baking dish or pan just large enough to hold them in a single layer. Drizzle with 1 Tbs. oil, season with a generous amount of salt, and toss well. Add a splash of water (just enough to create a little steam as the potatoes cook). Cover tightly with aluminum
foil and bake until the potatoes can be easily pierced with a small, sharp knife, 30 to 40 minutes, depending on the size of the potatoes. Remove from the oven, vent the foil, and let cool at room temperature.

To make the vinaigrette, combine the garlic, mustard, 1-1/2 Tbs. vinegar, and 1 Tbs. lemon juice in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the egg yolk, and then slowly whisk in 3⁄4 cup oil. Thin the vinaigrette with a few drops of cool water if necessary (you want it thin enough to drizzle nicely.) Taste and adjust with more salt or vinegar if necessary. Set aside.

Shortly before serving, halve or quarter the potatoes (depending on size and preference) and season with about 1-1⁄2 Tbs. of the vinaigrette. Set aside.

Season the tuna on both sides with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Warm a large skillet, preferably cast iron, over high heat until very hot. Add 3 Tbs. oil and place the tuna in the skillet. Cook, without moving, until seared and nicely browned, about 2 to 3 minutes, depending on the thickness of the tuna. Turn and cook on the opposite side for another 2 to 3 minutes. (The tuna should be pink in the center.) Transfer to a plate and set aside.

Drain any liquid from the artichokes and discard the thyme. Cut the eggs into quarters and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Scatter about half of the arugula around a large platter or individual plates. Tuck the potatoes, artichokes, beets, and eggs in and around the greens. Using your hands, break the tuna into rustic pieces, or slice it with a knife and nestle it in and around the other ingredients. Drizzle about 1⁄4 cup vinaigrette over the platter, or about a Tbs. over individual portions, and serve immediately, passing the remaining vinaigrette at the table.

Seared Tuna with Citrus, Tomato & Olive Sauce

Serve with couscous and sautéed zucchini.

• 2 medium plum tomatoes
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 medium lemon
• 2 medium navel oranges
• 2 Tbs. coriander seeds
• 1 Tbs. black peppercorns
• 4 tuna steaks, 1 inch thick (6 to 7 oz. each)
• 5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 anchovy fillets, rinsed and patted dry
• 1 large clove garlic, minced
• 1/2 cup (about 18) pitted Kalamata olives

Cut each tomato into four wedges, cut out the cores, and remove the seeds and pulp. Slice the tomatoes lengthwise into 1/4-inch strips. In a colander, toss them with 1/4 tsp. salt and let them drain for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, finely grate the zest of the lemon. Put the zest in a medium bowl. Working over the bowl, segment the lemon and the oranges. In a spice grinder or mortar and pestle (or with a meat mallet; put the spices in a zip-top bag), coarsely grind the coriander and peppercorns. Press the spices into both sides of the tuna steaks.

Gently heat 3 Tbs. of the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the anchovies and mash them into the oil with the back of a spoon until nearly dissolved. Turn the heat to low, add the garlic, and cook until softened but not browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat. Add the drained tomato strips, the orange and lemon segments (with the zest and juice), and the olives to the pan. Toss very gently to warm through, being careful not to break up the citrus segments. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl and keep warm.

Wipe out the skillet, set it over medium-high heat, and pour in the remaining 2 Tbs. oil. Generously salt the tuna steaks on both sides. Working in batches if necessary, sear the steaks, pressing on them while cooking to help a crust develop, until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip the tuna and continue to cook until golden brown, another 2 to 3 minutes for medium rare to medium. Transfer the tuna to dinner plates and serve with the warm citrus sauce.

Niçoise-Style Salad with Soft-Cooked Egg

This simplified version of the classic replaces the hard-boiled egg with a soft-cooked one, which means the yolk can mix easily (and deliciously) with the other ingredients. Any leftover dressing will keep for a week in the fridge.

• 2 large eggs
  
  
• 1-1/2 Tbs. white wine vinegar
• 1 Tbs. minced shallot
• 1 Tbs. heavy cream
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3 Tbs. olive oil
• 1 Tbs. capers, drained
• 4 oz. spring mix lettuces (4 lightly packed cups)
• 2 5-oz. jars or cans light tuna packed in olive oil, preferably Italian, drained and flaked
• 2/3 cup jarred roasted red pepper strips, rinsed
• 1/4 cup pitted Kalamata olives, halved

Bring a 2-quart saucepan of water to a boil. Lower the eggs into the water, reduce the heat so the water is gently boiling, and then cover and cook for 5 minutes. Transfer the eggs to a bowl of ice water and let cool for at least 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the vinegar, shallot, cream, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper in a small bowl. Whisk in the oil in a slow stream until emulsified. Stir in the capers.

Toss the lettuce with just enough dressing to coat, and then divide it between two dinner plates. Arrange the tuna, roasted red pepper, and olives on top of the greens.

Carefully peel the eggs, place one on each salad, and gently cut in half.

Rewhisk the remaining dressing, drizzle a little over the salad, and serve.

Fresh Tuna Pâté Scented with Rosemary

I could eat this tuna butter spread thickly on my morning toast, but most people will prefer it with a glass of white wine as an apéritif. Be very careful not to overcook the tuna as it will make a dry pâté. This is also good with green peppercorns folded in at the end.

• 6 large sprigs fresh rosemary
• 2 tsp. olive oil
• 8 oz. very fresh tuna
• 6 oz. (12 Tbs.) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 
• Crostini or crackers, for serving.

Arrange the rosemary in an even layer in a nonstick skillet, add the oil, and heat over medium until the herbs are fragrant. Lay the tuna on the rosemary sprigs and cook until the cooked white of the flesh has traveled about one-third of the way up the side of the tuna steak, about 5 minutes. Turn the tuna over and cook until cooked but still quite pink inside, another 5 minutes. (The tuna will continue to cook as it cools.) Remove the tuna from the pan and allow it to cool (pull off any clinging herbs).

In a food processor, combine the cooled tuna, the butter, lemon juice, salt, and pepper and process until smooth. Put the spread into a ramekin or small bowl, lightly cover the top with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until set. Grind more pepper over the top before serving with crostini or crackers.

Pan-Seared Tuna Steaks with Warm Tomato, Basil, and Olive Salad

Searing tuna steaks is lightning-fast; they cook to medium-rare in less than five minutes, and this zesty tomato-olive salad takes only a few minutes more.

• 4 5-oz. boneless, skinless tuna steaks
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium shallot, finely chopped
• 2 cups mixed yellow and red grape or cherry tomatoes, halved
• 1/3 cup sliced pitted green olives, such as picholine or Cerignola
• 2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh basil
• 1/2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice

Season the tuna with 1 tsp. salt and 1/4  tsp. pepper. Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Arrange the tuna in the skillet in a single layer and cook, turning once, until done to your liking (3 to 4 minutes for medium rare). Transfer the tuna to a large plate.


Reduce the heat to medium and add the shallot to the skillet. Cook, stirring, until golden-brown, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, olives, basil, 1/2 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper; cook until warmed through and the tomatoes are just softened, about 2 minutes more. Remove the skillet from the heat and gently stir in the lemon juice.


Transfer the tuna to plates, top with the tomato salad, and serve.

Seared Tuna with Fennel Seeds & Caper Brown Butter

• 1-1/2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
• 1 Tbs. capers, drained, coarsely chopped if large
• 6 Tbs. unsalted butter, cut into six pieces
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 4 1-inch-thick tuna steaks (6 to 8 oz. each)
• 1 Tbs. fennel seeds, crushed
• 3/4 tsp. kosher salt
• 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil

Put the lemon juice and capers in a 1-qt. heatproof measuring cup. Bring the butter and cream to a brisk simmer in a small saucepan over medium heat, whisking often. The mixture will look homogenous at first and then will separate and begin to turn golden brown. Continue to whisk until it turns a dark rust color, about 10 minutes total. Carefully pour the brown butter mixture into the lemon juice; the butter will boil up and sputter. Whisk to combine and return to the saucepan, off the heat.

Sprinkle the tuna on both sides with the fennel seeds, salt, and pepper. Heat the oil in a 10- to 12-inch heavy skillet (preferably cast iron) over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Sear the tuna on both sides until done to your liking, about 2 minutes per side for medium rare (still raw in the middle) or 3 minutes per side for medium (just pink in the middle). Transfer the tuna to plates. If necessary, quickly reheat the sauce. Serve the tuna drizzled with the sauce.

Niçoise Tuna Melts

This open-face sandwich is an inspired cross between a classic tuna melt and a Niçoise salad. A boule—a round loaf of crusty white bread—makes a sturdy base for the sandwich. Don’t skip the anchovy; it adds a subtle depth of flavor.

• 1 5-oz. can water-packed tuna, well drained
• 1/4 cup small-diced tomato
• 2 Tbs. minced red onion
• 1 Tbs. chopped Kalamata olives
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh dill
• 1-1/2 tsp. red wine vinegar
• 1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 small anchovy, minced (about 1/2 tsp.)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 slices artisanal boule-type bread (about 5x3 inches, 1/2 inch thick)
• 3 oz. (1 cup) finely grated Comté, Emmentaler, or Gruyère

Position a rack 4 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high.

In a medium bowl, combine the tuna, tomato, red onion, olives, dill, vinegar, olive oil, anchovy, 1/4 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper.

Put the bread on a rimmed baking sheet and broil until nicely toasted, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Remove the pan from the broiler, flip the bread over, and spread the tuna mixture evenly over each slice. Sprinkle the cheese evenly over the tuna and continue to broil until the cheese is melted and beginning to brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Serve.

Lemony Orzo with Tuna and Artichoke Hearts

This dish, and its perfectly balanced flavors, is the antidote to predictable weeknight pasta.No dry vermouth or white wine on hand? Deglaze the skillet with chicken broth or water instead.

• Kosher salt
• 1-1/2 cups dried orzo (about 9 oz.)
• 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/3 cup dry vermouth or white wine
• 1 14-oz. can artichoke hearts, drained and quartered
• 1/2 cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained and thinly sliced
• 1 5-oz. can water-packed solid white tuna, drained
• 3 Tbs. crème fraîche or sour cream
• 3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
• 3 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh basil

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Add the orzo and cook according to package timing until al dente. Drain well.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/8 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring often, until deep golden brown, 7 to 8 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat and add the vermouth or wine. Return the skillet to the heat and stir well, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom. Add the artichoke hearts and sun-dried tomatoes and cook just until tender and heated through, 2 to 3 minutes more. Off the heat, gently stir in the tuna.

Transfer the hot orzo to a large bowl and toss with the crème fraîche and lemon juice. Add the onion-artichoke mixture, 2 Tbs. of the basil, and salt and pepper to taste. Toss gently to combine. Spoon into bowls, garnish with the remaining 1 Tbs. basil, and serve.

Lemony Artichoke & Caper Tuna Salad Sandwiches

• 1 lb. fresh tuna filet (I prefer albacore)
• 2-1/2 cups extra-virgin olive oil; more if needed to cover the fish during cooking
• 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 14-ounce can water-packed artichoke hearts, drained, rinsed, and coarsely chopped
• 2 Tbs. drained nonpareil capers, rinsed
• 12 slices sourdough bread, lightly toasted
• 1 ripe heirloom slicing tomato, cut into 6 slices
• 6 leaves lettuce (such as romaine, red leaf, or Boston), washed and dried

Tip:

To quickly toast several slices of bread at once, use your broiler. Set the rack as close to the element as possible, arrange the bread in a single layer on a heavy-duty baking sheet, and toast both sides under the broiler. Watch carefully to avoid burning.

Cut the tuna into even 3- to 4-inch pieces. In a deep saucepan, wide enough to hold a few tuna pieces without crowding and deep enough to contain the poaching oil without spilling when the tuna is submerged, heat the olive oil over medium heat until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the oil reaches 190°F. The oil should stay at or near this temperature during the cooking process, so you'll need to monitor and adjust the intensity of the heat under the pan.

Rub the tuna with 1 Tbs. of the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Carefully submerge as many pieces of the tuna as will fit in a single layer in the hot oil. The oil must cover the tuna, so add more oil if needed. Cook until the tuna turns pinkish gray on the outside and is slightly pink in the center (remove a piece of tuna with a slotted spatula or spoon and cut into it to check), 3 to 6 min. Remove the tuna from the oil and set on a platter to cool. Repeat the process as necessary to cook the remaining tuna. Don't discard the poaching oil yet.

When the tuna is cool enough to handle, break it into small chunks over a medium bowl. Add the artichokes, capers, 1/4 cup of the poaching oil, and the remaining 3 Tbs. lemon juice. (Discard the remaining poaching oil.) Season with 1 tsp. salt and several grinds of pepper or to taste. Toss gently and let the tuna salad sit for 10 min. at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator. Before serving, bring to room temperature and check the seasonings.

Right before you leave for the picnic, or when you reach your picnic destination, layer a lettuce leaf, a tomato slice, and about a sixth of the tuna salad between two slices of toast (or use less if a sixth of the salad seems like too much for the size of your bread slices). Repeat to make six sandwiches. Wrap well in plastic for transport or serve immediately.

Grilled Tuna and Provolone Sandwiches with Salsa Verde

For this panini-style sandwich, steer clear of tuna packed in water; instead, choose good-quality tuna packed in olive oil.

• 1/2 cup packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
• 1/4 cup plus 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
• 1 Tbs. capers, drained and rinsed
• 1 small clove garlic, chopped
• 1 anchovy fillet, rinsed and chopped
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 8 thin slices provolone (about 4 oz.)
• 4 4-inch squares focaccia (or substitute any soft roll), split in half
• 12 oz. tuna packed in olive oil, drained well

Heat a panini or sandwich press according to the manufacturer’s instructions. (Alternatively, heat a nonstick grill pan over medium-high heat.)

While the press is heating, combine the parsley, 1/4 cup of the olive oil, lemon juice, capers, garlic, anchovy, and a few grinds of pepper in a blender and blend until smooth.

Lay the cheese on the bottoms of the focaccia. Spoon the tuna over the cheese. Spread some of the salsa verde over the inside tops of the focaccia and put the tops on the sandwiches salsa verde side down. Brush both sides of the sandwiches with the remaining 2 tsp. oil.

Put the sandwiches on the press salsa verde side up, pull the top down, and cook until browned and crisp and the cheese is melted, 5 to 7 minutes, depending on how hot your machine is. (If using a grill pan, put a heavy pan on top of the sandwiches and cook, turning the sandwiches over once.) Carefully remove from the press and serve.

Niçoise-Style Salad with Soft-Cooked Egg

This simplified version of the classic replaces the hard-boiled egg with a soft-cooked one, which means the yolk can mix easily (and deliciously) with the other ingredients. Any leftover dressing will keep for a week in the fridge.

• 2 large eggs
  
  
• 1-1/2 Tbs. white wine vinegar
• 1 Tbs. minced shallot
• 1 Tbs. heavy cream
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3 Tbs. olive oil
• 1 Tbs. capers, drained
• 4 oz. spring mix lettuces (4 lightly packed cups)
• 2 5-oz. jars or cans light tuna packed in olive oil, preferably Italian, drained and flaked
• 2/3 cup jarred roasted red pepper strips, rinsed
• 1/4 cup pitted Kalamata olives, halved

Bring a 2-quart saucepan of water to a boil. Lower the eggs into the water, reduce the heat so the water is gently boiling, and then cover and cook for 5 minutes. Transfer the eggs to a bowl of ice water and let cool for at least 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the vinegar, shallot, cream, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper in a small bowl. Whisk in the oil in a slow stream until emulsified. Stir in the capers.

Toss the lettuce with just enough dressing to coat, and then divide it between two dinner plates. Arrange the tuna, roasted red pepper, and olives on top of the greens.

Carefully peel the eggs, place one on each salad, and gently cut in half.

Rewhisk the remaining dressing, drizzle a little over the salad, and serve.

Penne Rigate with Olives, Roasted Peppers, and Tuna

This simple sauce is packed with the flavors of southern Italy—briny olives, sweet peppers, and rich tuna. Feel free to improvise by adding capers or anchovies, or by substituting canned sardines for the tuna.

• Kosher salt
• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed
• 1 cup black olives, such as Gaeta or Kalamata, or a mix of black and green, pitted and coarsely chopped
• 1/2 cup diced jarred roasted red peppers
• 2 Tbs. coarsely chopped sun-dried tomatoes
• 1 14.5-oz. can diced tomatoes, including juice
• 2 5-oz. cans tuna in olive oil, drained
• 2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 lb. dried penne rigate or other short, sturdy pasta

Bring a 6- to 8-quart pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat.

Heat the oil and garlic in a 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Cook for 2 minutes, pressing on the garlic with a fork to release its fragrance; don’t let it brown.

Stir in the olives, peppers, and sun-dried tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until heated through, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juice and use the fork to crush them a bit. Raise the heat to medium high and bring to a simmer. Lower the heat to medium low and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes.

Add the tuna, breaking it up with the fork, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the garlic and stir in the parsley.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta until al dente. Reserve 1/2 cup of the pasta water, then drain the pasta. Add the pasta to the sauce and toss to coat, adding a little of the reserved cooking water to moisten if necessary.