Crackle Brittle

This brittle is based on the filling of the celebrated Crack Pie we serve at my bakeries. An easy no-boil recipe, it’s a good option for anyone nervous about a pot of hot sugar.

• Vegetable oil for the pan, if needed
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1/4 cup packed light brown sugar
• 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1-1/4 tsp. kosher salt
• 2-1/4 oz. (4-1/2 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 2 large egg yolks
• 1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1 cup puffed rice cereal, crushed corn flakes or other cereal, graham crackers, chips, pretzels, granola, nuts, or seeds

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Have ready a 9x13-inch rimmed baking sheet. If the sheet is not nonstick, line the bottom and sides with parchment and oil the parchment.

Whisk both sugars, the flour, and salt in a medium bowl. Whisk in the butter, cream, yolks, and vanilla until well combined.

Pour the mixture onto the baking sheet and use a silicone spatula to spread it evenly to the edges. Sprinkle the cereal, nuts, or seeds over the mixture. Bake, rotating the pan if hot spots appear, until the brittle is dark golden-brown, 20 to 25 minutes.

Cool on the baking sheet on a rack at room temperature for 30minutes (leave the oven on). If it’s still malleable, return it to the hot oven for another 5 to 10 minutes until it’s a shade or two darker. Let cool for another 30 minutes and test again. Once it’s no longer malleable, cool completely, about 1-1/2 hours.

Invert the brittle onto a cutting board and remove the baking sheet and parchment, if using. Use a meat mallet, rolling pin, or your hands to break it up into medium-to-small pieces. The brittle can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 month.

Beef Carpaccio with Carrots and Peas

Taking the classic thin-sliced raw beef dish to the heart of the garden, chef Maria Hines uses fresh, tender peas and young carrots. Not to be confused with the store-bought “baby” carrots, these young ones are slender and naturally sweet.

• One 8- to 10-oz. piece filet mignon, trimmed of any excess fat
• Kosher salt
• 12 small young carrots (about 5 inches long), greens trimmed to 1/2 inch
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup fresh peas
• 2 Tbs. créme fraîche
• 1 Tbs. grated fresh peeled horseradish or bottled white horseradish, drained
• 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
• 1 tsp. finely chopped shallots
• 1 tsp. finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
• 1 tsp. finely chopped fresh chives
• 1-1/2 Tbs. truffle oil

Freeze the beef until partially frozen, about 45 minutes.

Have ready a large bowl of ice water. Bring a 2-quart saucepan of salted water to a boil. Cook the carrots until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the carrots to the bowl of ice water to stop the cooking, then transfer to kitchen towels and blot dry.

Return the water to a boil and blanch the peas for 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the peas to the bowl of ice water to stop the cooking, then transfer to kitchen towels and blot dry.

Cut the beef into 12 slices. Put a slice of beef between 2 sheets of plastic wrap and pound with a meat pounder until very thin (almost translucent, but be careful not to tear). Remove the top piece of plastic and season the beef with salt and pepper. Wrap the beef around a carrot and set aside. Repeat with the remaining slices of beef.

In a medium bowl, combine the blanched peas, créme fraîche, horseradish, lemon juice, shallots, parsley, chives, and 1/4 tsp. salt, and toss to mix.

Spoon the pea mixture onto a serving platter and spread evenly. Arrange the carpaccio-wrapped carrots on top of the peas. Drizzle with the truffle oil and season with lightly with salt.

Rare Grilled Salmon Fillets with Asian Slaw

Shredded cabbage, Thai basil, peanuts, jalapeño chiles, and a Fresno pepper create a slaw that’s perfectly crunchy and bright with a bit of heat—just what a mellow-tasting salmon calls for.

For the slaw

• 2 cups canola oil, more for the grill
• 7 fresh square wonton wrappers, cut into 1/8-inch strips
• 1/4 cup fresh lime juice (2 medium limes)
• 1 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1 Tbs. fish sauce
• Kosher salt
• 1/2 white cabbage, halved lengthwise, cored and very thinly sliced (about 8 cups)
• 1 large carrot, peeled and coarsely shredded (about 1 cup)
• 1/2 cup packed fresh Thai basil leaves, thinly sliced
• 1/2 cup peanuts, preferably raw, coarsely chopped
• 1 to 2 medium jalapeño chiles, coarsely chopped, including seeds
• 1 fresh red Fresno pepper, seeded, ribs removed, and coarsely chopped

For the salmon

• Four 6-oz. skin-on salmon fillets
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 1 Tbs. unbleached all-purpose flour

Make the slaw

Heat the canola oil in a 3-quart pot over medium-high heat until a strip of wonton dropped into the oil bubbles vigorously. Add the wontons in 3 small batches, stirring gently, until golden, 20 to 30 seconds, and transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. Set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk the lime juice, sugar, fish sauce, and 1 tsp. salt until the sugar and salt are dissolved. Add the remaining ingredients except for the wonton strips and toss to coat. Let sit to soften slightly, about 30 minutes.

Cook the salmon

Prepare a charcoal or gas grill fire for direct grilling over medium-high heat (about 400°F), or heat a grill pan on top of the stove. Oil the grill grate well.

Pat the salmon dry and season with salt and pepper. Spread the olive oil in a small, rimmed baking sheet and spread the flour on a plate. Dip the fillets, skin side down, in the flour, knocking off any excess; then put on the oiled sheet, turning once to coat both sides. Leave on sheet.

Grill the salmon, skin-side down. For rare only, loosely cover with foil, until the sides are opaque but the top is still translucent, about 7–8 minutes. For fully cooked salmon, turn the fillets over and cook for an additional 2 to 3 minutes.

Garnish the slaw with the fried wonton strips and serve with the salmon.

Corned Beef and Cabbage

In this take on the classic Irish-American boiled dinner, the vegetables are drizzled with garlic butter and broiled for added flavor. Pickling spice is a blend of cardamom, bay leaves, ginger, peppercorns, and other flavorings; look for it in the spice aisle of your grocery store.

• 5 large cloves garlic, smashed
• 4 large sprigs fresh thyme  
• 3 Tbs. pickling spice
• 2 dried bay leaves  
• 1 Tbs. black peppercorns 
• 1 4- to 5-lb. corned beef brisket 
• 4 medium red potatoes (about 1-1/2 lb.), scrubbed and quartered
• 4 large carrots (about 1 lb.), peeled and cut into 2-inch lengths  
• 2 large yellow onions (about 1 lb.), quartered 
• 2 large celery stalks, cut into 2-inch lengths 
• 1 large head green cabbage (about 3 lb.), outer leaves discarded, quartered 
• 3 oz. (6 Tbs.) unsalted butter 
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Malt vinegar, for drizzling (optional) 

Cut a 5-inch square of cheese cloth and lay it on a flat work surface. Put 4 of the garlic cloves, the thyme, pickling spice, bay leaves, and peppercorns in the center of the cloth. Tie the opposite corners together, creating a pouch.

Put the brisket and the spice pouch in a 12-quart stock pot and add enough cold water to cover the brisket by 4 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat and then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook until the beef is nearly fork-tender, about 3-1/2 hours. 

Add the potatoes, carrots, onions, celery, and cabbage. Simmer until the meat is fork-tender and the vegetables are just tender, about 30 minutes more. With tongs, transfer the meat to a cutting board, tent with foil, and let rest for 15 minutes. 

Using a wire skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer the vegetables to a foil-lined baking sheet. Reserve the cooking liquid and discard the spice pouch. 

In a 1-quart saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat and add the remaining garlic clove. Cook until the garlic is lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Discard the garlic.

Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the broiler on high. Drizzle the butter over the vegetables and broil until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. 

Slice the corned beef and arrange on a serving platter, surrounded by the vegetables. Drizzle some of the cooking liquid over the meat and pass the remaining liquid and malt vinegar (if using) on the side. Serve hot.

Grilled Steak and Peppered Spaetzle with Black Trumpet Mushrooms and Shallot Marmalade

This modern update on homey beef Stroganoff elevates it to a restaurant-worthy steak dinner: grilled flatiron steak on a bed of spaetzle with caramelized shallots and earthy, fragrant black trumpet mushrooms, topped with a drizzle of crème fraîche

For the shallot marmalade:

• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 8 oz. shallots, sliced 1/8 inch thick (1-1/2 cups)
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup sherry vinegar

For the spaetzle:

• 1 cup sour cream
• 1/4 cup whole milk
• 2 large eggs
• 4 tsp. kosher salt
• 1 tsp. freshly cracked black peppercorns
• 9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour

For the mushrooms:

• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 5-1/4 oz. black trumpet mushrooms, washed and thickly sliced (3 cups)
• 3 Tbs. finely chopped shallots
• 2 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
• 1-1/2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
• 2 Tbs. sherry vinegar; more to taste
• 1-1/2 tsp. white truffle oil (optional)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil

For the cooking the steaks and serving:

• 4 6-oz. beef flatiron steaks
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup crème fraîche or sour cream, whisked to to loosen
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• Dill sprigs, for garnish

Make the shallot marmalade:

Melt the butter in a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the sugar and vinegar, reduce the heat to medium low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 15 minutes.

Make the spaetzle:

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Have ready a large bowl of ice water.

Purée the sour cream, milk, eggs, salt, and cracked pepper in a blender until smooth. Pour the mixture into large bowl and fold in the flour.

To cook the spaetzle, place a spaetzle maker over the boiling water. Push the dough through the holes, letting it fall into the water below. (If you don’t have a spaetzle maker, use a rubber spatula to push the dough through the holes of a colander set over the pot of water.) The dough will form small dumplings as it drops into the water. Allow the spaetzle to rise to the surface and float for about 30 seconds before transferring it to the ice water with a slotted spoon. Let cool completely, about 5 minutes. Drain well, transfer to a large bowl, toss with the oil, and reserve.

Cook the mushrooms:

Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over high heat until very hot. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until softened, 5 minutes. Add the shallots, garlic, and thyme. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in the sherry vinegar and continue to cook until the pan is almost dry, about 1 minute.

Take the pan off the heat and drizzle in the truffle oil (if using). Season to taste with salt and pepper, and a touch of vinegar, if necessary. Keep warm.

Grill the steaks and serve:

Season the steak generously with salt and pepper. Heat a grill pan (or a large cast-iron skillet) over medium-high heat until very hot. Working in batches if necessary, grill the beef until medium rare (130°F to 135°F on an instant-read thermometer), 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes.

In a small bowl, combine the crème fraîche and 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper.

Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the
shallot marmalade and cook until heated through and thinned, about 2
minutes. Add the spaetzle and the mushrooms; cook, stirring, until
heated through, 2 to 3 minutes.

Thinly slice the steak across the grain. Serve the steak over the
spaetzle, drizzled with the crème fraîche and garnished with the dill
sprigs.

Gnocchi with Fava Beans, Peas & Asparagus

The freshness of the spring quartet of vegetables (including both English peas and snap peas) in Waxman’s dish keeps the hefty gnocchi light. This recipe makes more gnocchi than you will need, but the remainder can be frozen for later use.

For the gnocchi

• 3 russet potatoes (about 1-3/4 lb.)
• 2 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1 sprig rosemary
• Kosher salt
• 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 large egg
• 1/2 Tbs. olive oil, more for the cooked gnocchi

For the vegetables

• 1/2 cup peas, fresh or frozen
• 1/2 cup fava beans, fresh or frozen
• 6 medium spears asparagus, ends trimmed
• 8 sugar snap pea pods, strings removed
• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For serving

• 1 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated (1/2 cup with a rasp grater)

Make the gnocchi

Put the potatoes in a 4- to 5-quart saucepan and cover with 1 inch of cool water. Add the garlic, rosemary, and the 1 Tbs. salt. Bring to a boil, and then reduce the heat and simmer over medium heat. Cook until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork, about 45 minutes. Remove the cooked potatoes from the water and let them cool slightly.

When the potatoes are just cool enough to handle, peel them and force them through a ricer onto a clean work surface, making a well in the center. Add half of the flour, the egg, and the olive oil to the well and knead until well combined. Continue to add the flour in 1/4-cup increments until it is absorbed into the egg and oil mixture and a dough begins to form. You may not need all the flour. When the dough is still moist but no longer sticky, form it into a ball. Cut the ball into quarters with a sharp knife. Wrap three of the pieces in plastic and put them in the refrigerator.

Roll the remaining piece of dough on the work surface into a 1/2-inch thick rope, dusting with flour as needed to prevent it from sticking. Using a sharp knife, cut the rope into 3/4-inch pieces and transfer them to a lightly floured baking sheet. Repeat this process with the remaining dough pieces.

Set aside about 60 gnocchi for four servings, and refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap, on baking sheets until needed. Freeze the remainder for another use on baking sheets for about 45 minutes, or until the gnocchi pieces are firmly frozen. Transfer the gnocchi to a freezer bag and store for future use.

Blanch the vegetables

Bring a 7- to 8-quart pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Have ready a large bowl of ice water. Prepare a large paper-towel-lined plate and set aside. Add the peas to the boiling water and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Remove from the water with a slotted spoon and immediately plunge into the ice-water bath. When cool, transfer the peas to the paper-towel-lined plate.

Add the fava beans to the boiling water and cook until just tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from the water with a slotted spoon and immediately plunge into the ice-water bath. When cool, drain the favas and peel the outer skin. Place the beans on the plate with the peas.

Add the asparagus to the boiling water and cook until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the water with a slotted spoon and immediately plunge into the ice-water bath. When cool, transfer the asparagus to the paper-towel-lined plate.

Repeat this process with the sugar snap peas and drain on the plate with the asparagus. Cut the asparagus and snap peas into ¾-inch diagonal pieces. Set aside. Continue to boil the blanching water.

Cook the gnocchi

Set aside a large bowl for the cooked gnocchi. Drop as many gnocchi into the boiling water used to blanch the vegetables as will fit without crowding. When gnocchi rises to the top, continue cooking for another 1 to 1-1/2 minutes. Remove from the water with a slotted spoon, place in the reserved bowl, drizzle with 1/2 tsp. of olive oil and gently mix with a rubber spatula to prevent sticking. Repeat this procedure with the remaining gnocchi.

Cook the vegetables

Heat the olive oil and butter in a large 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add the cooked gnocchi and cook, stirring occasionally, until they just begin to brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the peas, fava beans, asparagus, sugar snap peas, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper and cook until the vegetables are just warmed through, about 2 minutes. Add some of the pasta water to the pan if the mixture seems dry. Adjust the seasoning if necessary.

To serve

Spoon the mixture into shallow serving bowls and top with the cheese.

Broken Spaghetti with Shrimp

Make pasta night exciting again. Here, hot red pepper flakes and garlic add punch, while the lemon and mint brighten the shrimp and vegetable mix.

• 1 tsp. (or more) dried hot red pepper flakes
• 1 large garlic clove, peeled
• 2 Tbs. flat-leaf parsley
• 1 Tbs. fresh mint leaves
• Zest and juice of 1 lemon
• Salt
• 1 lb. frozen medium-size cooked shrimp, defrosted
• 2 tsp. Filippo Berio Extra Virgin Olive Oil 
• 1 cup frozen chopped broccoli or spinach, defrosted and squeezed dry
• 6 cherry tomatoes, cut in half
• 1 lb. spaghetti or other long pasta, broken in half
• 1/4 cup reserved
  cooking water
• Coarse black pepper

Mince red pepper flakes, garlic, parsley, and mint together. Add to a large bowl. Stir in zest, lemon juice, and a pinch of salt. Toss in shrimp and allow to marinate for 5 minutes.

Heat olive oil over medium high heat in a large sauté pan. When olive oil is hot, stir in shrimp and cook 2 minutes. Add broccoli or spinach and cook 1 minute. Stir in tomatoes and cook 1 minute longer. Remove from heat and keep warm.

Cook spaghetti according to package directions. Reserve 1/4 cup of cooking water; drain spaghetti. Add spaghetti and reserved cooking water to shrimp and vegetables in pan. Reheat quickly until everything is hot. Season with salt and pepper. Serve.

Thai Seafood Salad (Yum Talay)

This dish boasts a playful mix of flavors: the natural sweetness of fresh seafood, the breezy notes of cilantro and mint, and the sharp accent of lime juice against a little sizzle of chile heat.In Thai cuisine, a yum is a hearty dish consisting mostly of meat, fish, or seafood, tossed just before serving with a simple mixture of fish sauce, fresh or dried chiles, lime juice, and herbs and often served atop a bed of salad greens. A yum is a stand-alone dish, perfect for a light main course or even an appetizer. The word yum refers to the action of combining an array of hot and tangy ingredients, and talay is the Thai word for ocean; thus, the mixed seafood version is called yum talay.You can prepare the components in advance but be sure to yum the dressing and seafood right before serving—this is the key to keeping the vibrant flavors distinct.

For the seafood:

• 24 small mussels
• 1 Tbs. table salt
• 3/4 lb. medium (51 to 60 per lb.) fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined
• 1/2 lb. cleaned squid, bodies sliced crosswise into 1/4-inch rings and tentacles cut in half if large
• 1/2 lb. sea scallops or bay scallops
• 1/4 lb. fresh or pasteurized jumbo lump crabmeat

Tip:

You can find frozen cleaned squid in 1-lb. packages in the freezer section. Some markets have thawed cleaned squid on ice at the seafood counter.

For the dressing:

• 6 Tbs. fresh lime juice (from 2 limes)
• 4-1/2 Tbs. fish sauce
• 1-1/2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 2 tsp. finely chopped unseeded fresh hot green chiles (like serrano or jalapeño)
• 2 tsp. finely chopped garlic (2 medium cloves)

For the salad:

• 2 cups bite-size pieces of Boston lettuce, rinsed and spun dry (1 large head)
• 3 Tbs. thinly sliced shallot (1 large)
• 1/3 cup thinly sliced scallions (4 to 5, white and green parts)
• 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
• 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh mint
• 1/2 cup sliced English cucumber (halve cucumber lengthwise and slice into 1/4-inch-thick half-moons)
• 1/2 cup halved cherry or grape tomatoes

Tip:

Chop the cilantro and mint at the last minute, just before mixing with the salad, so their flavor won't have time to fade.

Cook the seafood:

Scrub the mussels well under running water and pull off any "beards." Discard any mussels that don't close tightly when tapped on the counter. Put closed mussels in a medium saucepan. Add about 1/2 cup water, just enough to cover the bottom of the pan by about 1/4 inch. Cover and set over high heat. Bring to a rolling boil and cook until the shells have opened, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, transfer to a plate, and let stand until cool enough to handle. Discard any unopened ones. Remove the cooked mussels from their shells and put in a medium bowl; discard the shells and cooking liquid.

To cook the remaining seafood, bring a 3-qt. saucepan of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the salt and let the water return to a boil. Pour the shrimp into the boiling water and cook until the largest one is pink on the outside, opaque on the inside, and just cooked through, about 2 minutes. The water may not return to the boil before they are done. Scoop them out with a slotted spoon and drop into the bowl with the mussels.

After the water returns to a rolling boil, add the squid and cook just until they become firm and the rings turn bright white, about 1 minute. Scoop them out and drop them into the bowl along with the shrimp and mussels.

When the water returns to a rolling boil, cook the scallops until just cooked through and no longer translucent inside, 1 to 2 minutes for bay scallops, 2 to 3 minutes for sea scallops. Scoop them out and drop into the bowl as well (if using sea scallops, you may want to halve or quarter them first).

Add the lump crabmeat chunks to the bowl of seafood. Set the seafood aside on the counter while you prepare the dressing and other ingredients for the salad.

Make the dressing:

In a medium-large bowl, combine the lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, chiles, and garlic. Stir to dissolve the sugar and combine everything well. Set aside.

Assemble the salad:

Arrange the lettuce on a large serving platter or on individual serving plates as a bed for the seafood.

Transfer the cooked seafood to the bowl containing the lime-juice dressing. Add the shallots and use your hands or a wooden spoon to gently toss everything well. Add the scallions, cilantro, and mint and mix well again. Scoop the seafood onto the platter or serving plates with a slotted spoon. Toss the cucumber and tomato in the dressing remaining in the bowl and scatter around the seafood. Drizzle any remaining dressing from the bowl over the salad, especially over any lettuce not covered by the seafood. Serve immediately.

Grilled Corn and Orzo Salad with Basil

Great at room temperature, this zesty pasta salad is perfect for a picnic, potluck, or buffet. It’s versatile, too—any small pasta works well, and you can swap out the basil for fresh parsley or cilantro, if you like.

• 2 medium ears corn, shucked and silks removed
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, more for brushing
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup dried orzo
• 1/2 cup finely chopped fresh basil
• 1 Tbs. fresh lime juice
• 1/4 tsp. hot sauce, more to taste

Prepare a medium-high (425°F to 450°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Brush the corn with oil and season with salt and pepper.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat.

Grill the corn, turning often, until crisp-tender and charred in some spots, 8 to 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook the orzo according to package directions. Drain and transfer to a medium bowl.

When the corn is cool enough to handle, cut the kernels off the cobs. Stir the kernels into the orzo, along with the basil, 3 Tbs. of oil, lime juice, 1/2 tsp. salt, and hot sauce.

Season to taste with more salt and hot sauce. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Quick Skillet Mac and Cheese

Who says you can’t have indulgent comfort food on a weeknight? Be sure to use a broiler-safe skillet, such as a cast-iron one.

• Kosher salt
• 12 oz. dried spiral pasta, such as cavatappi, rotini, or double elbows
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 3 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 2 cups low-fat (2%) milk
• 4 oz. grated Emmentaler (1-1/4 cups)
• 4 oz. grated Gruyère (1-1/4 cups)
• 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
• 1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
• 1/2 tsp. dried thyme
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 3 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (3 cups)

Position a rack about 4 inches from the broiler and heat the broiler on high.


Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions until just tender. Drain well and set aside.


Meanwhile, melt the butter in a 12-inch ovenproof skillet (preferably cast iron) over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and continue whisking until well combined, about 15 seconds. Whisk in the milk and continue to cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens, 1 to 2 minutes.


Add the Emmentaler, Gruyère, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, and thyme and whisk until the cheese is melted and the mixture is smooth, 2 minutes. Stir in the pasta to coat with the sauce. Off the heat, season to taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle the Parmigiano-Reggiano evenly over the pasta.


Broil until the top is browned, 3 to 4 minutes, and serve.

Whipped Yukon Gold Potatoes with Horseradish

The slightly tangy horseradish flavor of these potatoes pairs well with the cider gravy.

• 5 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes
• 3 Tbs. salt
• 1/2 lb. (16 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 1-1/2 cups light cream
• White pepper to taste
• 6 oz. prepared horseradish

Peel and quarter the potatoes and cover with cold water. You can hold the potatoes this way at room temperature for 6 hours ahead of cooking (or for a day ahead in the refrigerator).

Drain the potatoes, put them in a 6-qt. pot, and cover with water. Add 1 Tbs. salt. Bring to boil, reduce to a gentle boil, and cook until fork-tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Pour off the water and let the potatoes cool. (If they sit in water off the heat, they'll turn pasty.)

In an electric mixer with the whisk attachment, whip the potatoes until smooth, about 1 min.; add the butter and mix until melted and combined, about 30 seconds. Add the cream, 2 Tbs. salt, and pepper; whip until smooth and creamy, about 2 min., scraping down the sides of the bowl frequently. (You can also use a food mill.) Fold in the horseradish and combine well.

To keep the potatoes warm -- Put an inch of water in the pot the potatoes were cooked in and set over low heat. Put the potatoes in a mixing bowl, cover with foil, and put the bowl on top of the pot. You can hold the potatoes like this for at least 2 hours; just maintain the water level and keep the heat low.

Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes with Chives

• 3 lb. russet potatoes (4 to 6 medium), peeled and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch chunks
• Kosher salt
• 6 to 8 Tbs. unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 4 pieces
• 1 cup buttermilk, at room temperature
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced chives (1 small bunch)
• Freshly ground black pepper

Put the potatoes in a large saucepan and cover by an inch with cold water. Add 1-1/2 tsp. kosher salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, partially cover, and simmer until the potatoes are tender and easily pierced with a skewer, about 20 minutes. Drain, and return the potatoes to the saucepan. Put the pan over low heat, and shake or stir the potatoes until a floury film forms on the bottom of the pot, 1 to 2 minutes.

Using a ricer, food mill, or potato masher, mash the potatoes. Stir in the butter, 1 piece at a time, with a broad wooden spoon. Once the butter is thoroughly absorbed, add the buttermilk in three parts, stirring vigorously between additions. Add the chives, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

Wheat Berry Salad with Green Beans and Corn

This hearty salad is perfect summer-picnic fare: chewy wheat berries, crisp-tender corn and green beans, sweet golden beets and pungent blue cheese crumbles.

• 2-1/4 cups wheat berries
• Kosher salt
• 1/2 cup plus 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, more as needed
• 1/3 cup sherry vinegar
• 2 Tbs. roasted walnut oil
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup cut green beans (1-inch pieces), steamed until crisp-tender
• 1 cup fresh corn kernels, blanched (or frozen corn kernels, thawed)
• 1 cup diced roasted golden beets (roast until tender, peel, and cut into 1/2-inch dice)
• 1 cup crumbled blue cheese
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced chives

Fill a large bowl with cold water, add the wheat berries, and let soak for 10 to 18 hours. Drain. Bring 7 cups of water to a boil in a 4-quart pot over high heat. Add 3/4 tsp. salt. Add the wheat berries, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally and adding more boiling water as necessary to keep the wheat berries covered, until tender, about 1 to 1-1/2 hours. Drain and rinse the wheat berries with cold water to stop the cooking.

Transfer the wheat berries to a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with 1 Tbs. of the olive oil, and toss lightly to coat. Spread the wheat berries on the baking sheet and cool completely at room temperature or in the refrigerator.

Put the vinegar in a small bowl and gradually whisk in the remaining 1/2 cup of olive oil. Whisk in the walnut oil. Taste and season with salt, pepper, and additional vinegar or olive oil as needed.

Put the cooked and cooled wheat berries in a large serving bowl and toss to break up any clumps. Add the green beans, corn, beets, blue cheese, chives, and 1/2 cup vinaigrette and toss. Taste and season as needed with more vinaigrette, salt, pepper, and serve.

Arroz Verde (Green Rice)

Rich and refined, arroz verde is one of the most popular dishes I present to cooking classes.

• 1/2 cup tightly packed fresh cilantro sprigs (about 1/2 oz.)
• 1 cup tightly packed fresh stemmed spinach leaves (about 1-1/2 oz.)
• 1-1/4 cups homemade or low-salt chicken broth
• 1-1/4 cups milk
• 1 tsp. kosher salt
• 1 Tbs. olive oil
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1-1/2 cups long-grain rice
• 1/4 cup finely minced onion
• 1 clove garlic, minced

Put the cilantro, spinach, and broth in a blender and blend until the vegetables are puréed. Add the milk and salt and blend a bit more until well combined.

In a medium (3-qt.) heavy-based saucepan (with a good lid) over medium heat, heat the olive oil and butter. When the butter is melted, add the rice and sauté, stirring about every 30 seconds, until it just begins to brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the onion and garlic and cook 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add the contents of the blender, stir well, turn the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Cover the pan, turn the heat to very low, and cook for 20 minutes. Stir the rice carefully to avoid crushing it, cover, and cook another 5 minutes.

Take the pan off the heat and let the rice steam in the covered pot for 10 minutes. Serve hot.

Potatoes Mousseline

• 1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted
• 3 lb. russet potatoes, peeled and cut into lengthwise quarters
• Kosher salt
• 3/4 cup whole milk
• 1 cup heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
• Freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oven to 250°F. Brush a 9x13-inch baking dish with some of the melted butter. Put the potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with cold water by at least 1 inch. Add 2 tsp. salt, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a gentle boil, cover the pan partially, and cook until the potatoes are quite tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain and return the potatoes to the pan. Over low heat, shake the pan until the potatoes are dry and no longer steam profusely, about 2 minutes.

Pass the potatoes through a ricer (or force through a coarse sieve with a rubber spatula) into a large bowl. Stir in the milk and half of the melted butter with a wooden spoon. Whisk the whipped cream a few times to fluff it up and then gently stir about one-third of it into the potato mixture to lighten it with the whisk. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the rest of the whipped cream. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Transfer the potatoes to the baking dish. Spread evenly, and drizzle with the remaining butter. Bake the mousseline for 30 minutes until heated through. Just before serving, heat the broiler to high and broil the potatoes until lightly browned, 2 to 4 minutes.

Spelt Salad with Cherry Tomatoes and Zucchini

This summery side salad pairs chewy grains of spelt with sweet cherry tomatoes and zucchini. It's a perfect take-along dish for a picnic or potluck.

• 3 cups spelt
• Kosher salt
• 1/2 cup plus 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, more as needed
• 1/3 cup red wine vinegar
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1-1/4 cup halved cherry tomatoes
• 1-1/4 cup diced zucchini (1/2-inch dice)
• 1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions
• 3 Tbs. chopped fresh basil
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano

Fill a large bowl with cold water, add the spelt, and let soak for 10 to 18 hours. Drain. Bring 7 cups of water to a boil in a 4-quart pot over high heat. Add 3/4 tsp. salt. Add the spelt, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally and adding more boiling water as necessary to keep the spelt covered, until tender, about 45 to 60 minutes. Drain and rinse the spelt with cold water to stop the cooking.

Transfer the spelt to a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with 1 Tbs. of the oil, and toss lightly to coat. Spread the spelt on the baking sheet and cool completely at room temperature or in the refrigerator.

Put the vinegar in a small bowl and gradually whisk in the remaining 1/2 cup of oil. Taste and season with salt, pepper, and additional vinegar or oil as needed.

Put the cooked and cooled spelt in a large serving bowl and toss to break up any clumps. Add the cherry tomatoes, zucchini, scallions, basil, and oregano and 1/2 cup vinaigrette and toss. Taste and season as needed with more vinaigrette, salt, pepper and serve.

Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes with Chives

• 3 lb. russet potatoes (4 to 6 medium), peeled and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch chunks
• Kosher salt
• 6 to 8 Tbs. unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 4 pieces
• 1 cup buttermilk, at room temperature
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced chives (1 small bunch)
• Freshly ground black pepper

Put the potatoes in a large saucepan and cover by an inch with cold water. Add 1-1/2 tsp. kosher salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, partially cover, and simmer until the potatoes are tender and easily pierced with a skewer, about 20 minutes. Drain, and return the potatoes to the saucepan. Put the pan over low heat, and shake or stir the potatoes until a floury film forms on the bottom of the pot, 1 to 2 minutes.

Using a ricer, food mill, or potato masher, mash the potatoes. Stir in the butter, 1 piece at a time, with a broad wooden spoon. Once the butter is thoroughly absorbed, add the buttermilk in three parts, stirring vigorously between additions. Add the chives, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

Couscous Salad with Tomatoes and Hot Green Peppers

Couscous is a fine pellet made from semolina flour, each golden grain a bit larger than the head of a pin. Some chefs call it “Moroccan pasta” because it is made with the same durum wheat used to make pasta. Here, cooked couscous is combined with roasted green peppers, tomatoes, and cucumbers. The resulting salad is similar to Middle Eastern tabouleh and perfect for a summer picnic.

• 1-1/2 cups couscous
• 1/2 cup water
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 2 green bell peppers, roasted and diced 
• 2 cups coarsely chopped cherry tomatoes or 2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced
• 1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded, and diced
• 1 hot green or red chili pepper (jalapeño or serrano), minced 
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro or coriander leaves
• 5 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil
• 2 to 4 Tbs. lemon juice
• 1 tsp. ground cumin
• 1/4 tsp. sweet paprika
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• Freshly ground black pepper

Wash the couscous in cold water and drain immediately. Lift and rake the grains with your fingertips to separate them. Let rest 10 minutes.

Heat water in the bottom of a soup pot fitted with a steamer. The steamer should fit snugly into the pot, and the bottom of the steamer should not touch the water. Line the steamer with 3 layers of cheesecloth that cover both the bottom and the sides of the steamer and go up over the top. Add the couscous to the steamer and steam for 20 minutes, fluffing the grains halfway through the cooking.

Remove the couscous from the steamer and put it into a baking pan. Combine the water and salt. Sprinkle the couscous with the salt water. Lift and rake the grains with your fingertips to separate them. Let rest 10 minutes.

Place the steamer back in the soup pot and return the couscous to the cheesecloth-lined steamer. Steam slowly for 15 minutes. Remove the steamer and the couscous. Let the couscous cool completely.

The couscous can be prepared to this point up to 2 days in advance.

Place the couscous in a bowl and add the peppers, tomatoes, cucumber, chili pepper, parsley, and cilantro.

In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, cumin, paprika, and garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Toss with the couscous and vegetables. Season with salt and pepper.

Chicken Salad with Fruits & Nuts

This is what I call my bridal-shower chicken salad—it’s bright and beautiful and feels oh so genteel. If you have sour cream on hand, replace half the yogurt with it to give the salad an even more luxurious feel.

• 3 to 3-1/2 lb. bone-in chicken pieces   
• 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 Tbs. mayonnaise 
• 1/4 cup plain yogurt
• 4-1/2 tsp. lemon juice 
• 1 tsp. honey
• 1-1/2 cups seedless green or red grapes, halved 
• 1 large tart red apple, halved, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
• 1 large ripe but firm Bartlett or Comice pear, halved, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
• 1 cup pecan halves, toasted
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Put in the chicken, parsley, and bay leaf and return to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the chicken is tender, about 25 minutes for the breasts, 35 to 40 minutes for the thighs and legs. Remove the chicken and set it aside until cool enough to handle.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, mix together the mayonnaise, yogurt, lemon juice, and honey.

When the chicken has cooled, remove and discard the skin and bones. Dice the meat into 1/2-inch pieces and add it to the bowl with the dressing, along with the grapes, apple, pear, and pecans. Toss together. Season with salt and pepper.

Cheesy Rice with Garlic and Thyme

Imagine risotto crossed with macaroni and cheese, and that’s what you get in this comforting side dish. Dried porcini lend a savory edge without an overt mushroom flavor. Serve alongside a simple roast chicken, or seared veal or pork chops.

• 1/2 cup dried porcini mushrooms
• Kosher salt
• 1 cup carnaroli or Arborio rice
• 4 Tbs. unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
• 1 medium clove garlic, finely chopped
• 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme
• 3-1/2 oz. (1 cup) coarsely grated fontina
• 3/4oz. (1/2 cup) firmly packed, freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving
• Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving
• Freshly ground white pepper

Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil in a 3- to 4-quart saucepan over high heat.

Pulse the mushrooms in a spice grinder until they’re about the size of raw oatmeal flakes.Add the mushrooms, 1 Tbs. salt, and the rice to the boiling water. Reduce the heat to medium to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is al dente, 10 to 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in an 8-inch sauté pan over medium-high heat, swirling continuously until it turns a deep golden-brown (be careful not to burn it). Immediately remove the pan from the heat and stir in the garlic and thyme. Set aside.

Set a large, fine strainer over a bowl and strain the cooked rice and mushrooms, catching the broth in the bowl. Return the rice mixture to the pan over low heat. Stir in the cheeses and the butter mixture and moisten the rice with 1/4 to 1/2 cup of the broth. Season to taste with salt and pepper and cook another 2 to 3 minutes. Serve with more Parmigiano-Reggiano on top.