Gingerbread Cookies

Lightly flour the sharp edge of your cookie cutters to keep the dough from sticking.Visit the Guide to Christmas for more holiday recipes and tips for perfect Christmas cookies.

• 14-1/4 oz. (3 cups plus 2 Tbs.) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 2 tsp. ground ginger
• 1 tsp. baking soda
• 1/2 tsp. ground cloves
• 1/2 tsp. table salt
• 3/4 lb. (1-1/2 cups) unsalted butter, softened at room temperature
• 1 cup very firmly packed light brown sugar
• 1/4 cup molasses
• 1 large egg

Tip:

For the best results, measure your flour by weight instead of volume. (1 cup of all-purpose flour equals 4-1/2 oz.) If you don’t have a scale, be sure to use the proper technique when filling your measuring cups.

Sift together the flour, cinnamon, ginger, baking soda, cloves, and salt. Using a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, beat the butter, brown sugar, and molasses on medium until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Beat in the egg until thoroughly combined. Scrape the bowl with a rubber spatula. With the mixer on low speed, slowly add the flour until blended. Divide the dough, wrap each half in plastic, and chill until firm enough to roll, about 1 hour.

Position a rack in the center of the oven; heat the oven to 350°F. Lay each piece of dough between two long sheets of parchment or waxed paper. If the dough is very firm, let it sit until pliable. Roll it to about 1/8 inch thick. Peel off the top layer of paper and cut out cookies with a cookie cutter. Put the sheet of dough in the freezer for a few minutes until the dough firms enough to easily transfer the cutouts to ungreased cookie sheets (space them about 2  inches apart). Gather and reroll the scraps. Bake until the edges are golden brown, 10 to 12  min. Let cool on the sheet for 1 minute before transferring the cookies to a rack to cool.

The cookies can be stored in an airtight container for three to four days.

Grilled Steak and Peppered Spaetzle with Black Trumpet Mushrooms and Shallot Marmalade

This modern update on homey beef Stroganoff elevates it to a restaurant-worthy steak dinner: grilled flatiron steak on a bed of spaetzle with caramelized shallots and earthy, fragrant black trumpet mushrooms, topped with a drizzle of crème fraîche

For the shallot marmalade:

• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 8 oz. shallots, sliced 1/8 inch thick (1-1/2 cups)
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup sherry vinegar

For the spaetzle:

• 1 cup sour cream
• 1/4 cup whole milk
• 2 large eggs
• 4 tsp. kosher salt
• 1 tsp. freshly cracked black peppercorns
• 9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour

For the mushrooms:

• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 5-1/4 oz. black trumpet mushrooms, washed and thickly sliced (3 cups)
• 3 Tbs. finely chopped shallots
• 2 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
• 1-1/2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
• 2 Tbs. sherry vinegar; more to taste
• 1-1/2 tsp. white truffle oil (optional)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil

For the cooking the steaks and serving:

• 4 6-oz. beef flatiron steaks
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup crème fraîche or sour cream, whisked to to loosen
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• Dill sprigs, for garnish

Make the shallot marmalade:

Melt the butter in a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the sugar and vinegar, reduce the heat to medium low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 15 minutes.

Make the spaetzle:

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Have ready a large bowl of ice water.

Purée the sour cream, milk, eggs, salt, and cracked pepper in a blender until smooth. Pour the mixture into large bowl and fold in the flour.

To cook the spaetzle, place a spaetzle maker over the boiling water. Push the dough through the holes, letting it fall into the water below. (If you don’t have a spaetzle maker, use a rubber spatula to push the dough through the holes of a colander set over the pot of water.) The dough will form small dumplings as it drops into the water. Allow the spaetzle to rise to the surface and float for about 30 seconds before transferring it to the ice water with a slotted spoon. Let cool completely, about 5 minutes. Drain well, transfer to a large bowl, toss with the oil, and reserve.

Cook the mushrooms:

Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over high heat until very hot. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until softened, 5 minutes. Add the shallots, garlic, and thyme. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in the sherry vinegar and continue to cook until the pan is almost dry, about 1 minute.

Take the pan off the heat and drizzle in the truffle oil (if using). Season to taste with salt and pepper, and a touch of vinegar, if necessary. Keep warm.

Grill the steaks and serve:

Season the steak generously with salt and pepper. Heat a grill pan (or a large cast-iron skillet) over medium-high heat until very hot. Working in batches if necessary, grill the beef until medium rare (130°F to 135°F on an instant-read thermometer), 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes.

In a small bowl, combine the crème fraîche and 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper.

Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the
shallot marmalade and cook until heated through and thinned, about 2
minutes. Add the spaetzle and the mushrooms; cook, stirring, until
heated through, 2 to 3 minutes.

Thinly slice the steak across the grain. Serve the steak over the
spaetzle, drizzled with the crème fraîche and garnished with the dill
sprigs.

German Potato Salad

Sure, the Classic Potato Salad recipe is a winner, but for your next cookout, turn up the tangy dial and impress your guests with another classic: German Potato Salad, or create your own potato salad recipe with our new Potato Salad Recipe Maker.

For the dressing

• 1/4 cup white wine vinegar
• 1 Tbs. grainy mustard
• 1 tsp. kosher salt
• 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1-1/2 tsp. caraway seeds, lightly toasted and ground

For the salad

• 1/4 cup plain rice vinegar
• Kosher salt
• 3-1/2 lb. medium waxy potatoes, such as Yukon Gold or red, scrubbed clean
• 3/4 lb. bacon, cooked and crumbled
• 1 cup small-diced sweet onion
• 3/4 cup small-diced dill pickles
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Make the dressing

Whisk the vinegar, mustard, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the oil until combined. Whisk in the caraway seeds.

Make the salad

Combine the rice vinegar and 2 tsp. salt in a large bowl. Let sit to dissolve the salt. Put the potatoes and 2 Tbs. salt in a 6-quart pot and add enough cold water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat and reduce the heat to maintain a simmer. Cook the potatoes until barely tender when poked with a fork or skewer, 20 to 25 minutes. If the potatoes aren't all the same size, remove them as they are cooked.

Gently drain the potatoes in a colander and set aside until just cool enough to handle. Using a paring knife, peel the potatoes by scraping off the skin. Cut the potatoes into 3/4-inch chunks. Add the potatoes to the bowl with the rice vinegar and gently stir with a spatula to coat. With your fingers, pull apart any pieces that are stuck together.

Gently fold the bacon, onions, pickles and parsley into the potatoes. Whisk the vinaigrette back together and fold enough of it into the potatoes to generously coat them (you may not need all of the dressing). Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve while still slightly warm, or at room temperature.

Goat Cheese Blintzes

For the crepes:

• 2 large eggs, at room temperature
• 1 cup regular or low-fat goat milk (or cow milk, if you must)
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1/4 tsp. salt
• Goat butter (or unsalted cow butter, if you must), for greasing the skillet

For the filling:

• 8 ounces fresh chevre or soft goat cheese
• 1 large egg yolk
• 2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 4 Tbs. goat butter (or unsalted cow butter, if you must)

Make the crepes:

Whir the two eggs and the milk in a blender (preferably) or a food processor fitted with the chopping blade until creamy. Add the flour and salt; blend or process until smooth.

Lightly grease an 8-inch nonstick skillet with a little butter on some wadded up paper towel. Set the skillet over medium heat, let it warm up a bit, then pour in 2 Tbs. of the flour batter. Swirl and shake the skillet so that the batter evenly covers its bottom. Cook until set, about 30 seconds. Flip the crepe, then cook for another 30 seconds or so, just until firm. Transfer the crepe from the skillet to a plate or cutting board; cover with a clean kitchen towel. Butter the skillet again, add 2 more Tbs. of batter, and keep going, repeating ad nauseam, until you have 16 crepes.

Fill and cook the blintzes

For the filling, stir the fresh chèvre or soft goat cheese, egg yolk, sugar, and vanilla in a big bowl until creamy. Set one of the crepes on your work surface, mound 2 tsp. of this cheese mixture in the middle of the crepe, flatten the filling a little, fold the two sides of the crepe to your left and right over the filling, fold up the bottom, the part nearest you. Now roll the crepe away from you so that it folds up into a little packet. Set aside under a clean kitchen towel and continue filling all the crepes.

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add 2 Tbs. of the butter and about half the blintzes. Fry them on both sides until crisp and brown, about 4 minutes in all, turning once. Transfer these to a serving platter, add the remaining 2 Tbs. butter to the skillet, and fry the rest of them.

Paprika Chicken with Kielbasa

This is a riff on a traditional Hungarian dish, Chicken Paprikás. I’ve added kielbasa and pimentón because I love the smoky flavor they contribute.

• 6 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (about 2 lb.)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 to 5 Tbs. olive oil
• 1 lb. kielbasa, cut on the diagonal into 12 chunks
• 1 medium onion, small diced
• 2 medium garlic cloves, chopped
• 2 medium green bell peppers, medium diced
• 2 Tbs. sweet Hungarian paprika
• 1 tsp. sweet smoked Spanish paprika (pimentón)
• 1 28-oz. can diced tomatoes
• 1 cup low-salt chicken broth
• 1/2 cup sour cream
• 3 Tbs. chopped fresh parsley

Season the chicken on both sides with 3/4 tsp. salt and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a 6-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Sear the chicken on both sides until nicely golden brown, about 8 minutes total. Transfer the chicken to a plate and sear the cut ends of the kielbasa until golden brown, about 2 minutes total. Transfer the kielbasa to the plate with the chicken. Pour off and discard the fat from the pan.

Add 2 more Tbs. of the oil, reduce the heat to medium, and cook the onion, stirring occasionally, until beginning to soften, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant and the onions are completely soft and golden, 2 to 3 minutes more. Push the onions and garlic to one side of the pan and add 1 Tbs. of olive oil if the pan looks dry. Add the peppers and cook, stirring once or twice, until beginning to brown, 4 to 5 minutes.

Remove the pot from the heat, add both of the paprikas and stir together with all the vegetables for 30 seconds. Return the pot to the heat and add the tomatoes, chicken broth, and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Immerse the chicken in the sauce and scatter the kielbasa on top. Cover and simmer over medium-low heat until the thighs are cooked through (cut into a thigh near the bone to check for doneness), 25 to 30 minutes. Remove the skin from the chicken if you like. Stir in the sour cream, season with salt to taste and serve sprinkled with parsley.

Oven-Roasted Sausages with Riesling, Apples, and Pears

Preparing this dish will fill your home with the most intoxicating aroma ever. The smell alone may be enough to inspire the occasional home cook to prepare dinner on a regular basis. A mixture of orange juice and wine is infused with ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and anise seed, then poured over sautéed apples, pears, and sweet Italian sausage and baked. The meal tastes just as wonderful as it smells.

• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 Tbs. brown sugar
• 3 Bosc pears, peeled, halved, and cored
• 3 Granny Smith apples, peeled, halved, and cored
• Kosher salt
• 1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice, from about 2 to 3 oranges, or store-bought prepared orange juice
• 1 cup late-harvest wine, such as Riesling or Gewürztraminer
• 1 tsp. grated orange zest
• 2 slices fresh ginger
• 2 whole cloves
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 1⁄8 tsp. anise seed, crushed
• 9 sweet Italian pork sausages, pricked with a fork

Heat the oven to 375°F.

Melt the butter in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the brown sugar and cook until it is melted. Add the pears and apples, cut side down, in a single layer, and cook until they are golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and place the pears and apples in a large baking dish in a single layer. Season with salt.

In the meantime, add the orange juice, late-harvest wine, orange zest, ginger, cloves, cinnamon stick, and anise seed to the frying pan over high heat. Bring to a boil and immediately remove from the heat. Discard the ginger, cinnamon stick, and cloves.

Add the sausages to the baking dish with the pears and apples. Pour the orange juice and wine mixture over the pears, apples, and sausages and season with salt. Cover loosely with foil and bake until the sausages are cooked and the pears and apples are tender but still hold their shape, 25 to 35 minutes.

To serve, cut each sausage in half on the diagonal. Place 3 pieces of sausage and half of a pear and apple on each plate. Drizzle with the pan juices and serve immediately.

Pork Chops with a Dijon-Rye Crust

It’s the easy-to-make rye bread crust that transforms these skillet chops into something special. Set under the broiler for just a minute, the crust turns a lovely golden brown.

• 3 slices caraway rye bread (such as Pepperidge Farm seeded Jewish rye), crusts trimmed
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted
• 4 bone-in, center-cut pork chops, each 1-inch thick (about 2 lb. total)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 3 Tbs. coarse-grained Dijon mustard

Position one rack in the center of the oven and a second rack directly under the broiler. Heat the oven to 400°F.

Pulse the bread in a food processor until it forms coarse crumbs. Drizzle in the melted butter and pulse a few more times to evenly moisten the crumbs.

Season the pork chops generously with salt and pepper. Heat the oil for 1 minute in a 12-inch ovenproof skillet over high heat. Put the chops in the skillet and cook until nicely browned, 2 to 3 minutes per side.

Remove the skillet from the heat and transfer the chops to a plate. Spread the mustard on one side of the chops and then gently press on the breadcrumbs.

Return the chops to the pan, crumb side up, put the pan in the oven, and cook until the centers of the chops are slightly firm to the touch and they register 145°F on an instant-read thermometer, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the skillet from the oven and switch the oven temperature to high broil. Let it heat for about 3 minutes. Put the skillet full of chops under the broiler just long enough to brown the crumb crust, 30 to 60 seconds. Serve immediately.

Russian Chocolate Braid

This braided sweet bread is based on a soft potato-and-sour-cream dough, filled with a thick pastry cream and flecked with mini chocolate chips. The pastry cream should be quite stiff so that it doesn't ooze out from the dough; make it just after you make the dough to allow enough time to cool.

for the pastry cream:

• 1 cup milk
• 2-inch piece vanilla bean, slashed lengthwise, seeds scraped out, or 1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• 3 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1/4 tsp. table salt
• 2 large egg yolks

• 1 recipe Sour Cream & Potato Sweet Dough

to finish the bread:

• 1/2 cup mini chocolate chips (semi- or bittersweet)
• 1 large egg, beaten

Make the pastry cream:

 In a medium saucepan, warm the milk over medium heat (if you’re using a vanilla bean, add it now) just until a skin forms. Take the pan off the heat. In a medium mixing bowl, combine the sugar, flour, and salt. Add the yolks, beating with a wooden spoon. Whisk in the warm milk in a thin stream, whisking constantly. Return the milk mixture to the saucepan. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture is extremely thick and gluey (you’ll need to switch to a wooden spoon), about 5 minutes. If you’re using vanilla extract, stir it in now. Immediately force the pastry cream through a sieve. Gently press a sheet of waxed paper or plastic onto the surface of the hot pastry cream to prevent a skin from forming. Let cool and then refrigerate until ready to use it.

Line a heavy baking sheet (or an insulated sheet or two sheets sandwiched together) with parchment or butter it. Roll the dough into a rectangle about 13x16 inches and about 1/8 inch thick. Stir the chilled pastry cream to soften it and then spread it over the dough in a thin layer. Scatter the chocolate chips evenly over the surface. Roll the rectangle into a cylinder from the wider side and pinch the long edge to seal. Put the cylinder on the baking sheet. Cut the cylinder in half lengthwise, splitting it into two thin strips. Arrange the strips parallel to one another so that the filling is facing up, push them together, and wrap them around each other to form a twist, working from the center.

Position a rack in the middle on the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Cover the shaped dough and proof until it’s large, puffy, and remains indented when lightly pressed with your fingertip, about 45 minutes.

Brush the braid with the beaten egg, taking care not to smear the filling or dislodge the chocolate bits. Bake until golden brown, about 35 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through baking. Let cool on a rack for 1 hour before slicing.

Soup of the Bakony Outlaws

Bakony is a mountainous region of Hungary near Lake Balaton, and the outlaws must have been both gourmet and gourmand to inspire this hearty, flavorful soup. I've seen other "Bakony" recipes, and mushrooms seem to be the common bond. Maybe they were roving mushroom thieves. You'll notice that many of the ingredients are diced pretty fine, which gives the soup a wonderful texture and lots of flavor, but if you need to save some time, you can chop a bit more coarsely, though you should keep the bacon and veal very small.

• 3 Tbs. oil
• 2 onions, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 2 oz. bacon, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 1-1/2 Tbs. sweet paprika
• 8 oz. thin veal cutlet, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 2 to 3 cups homemade or low-salt canned chicken stock
• 2 medium carrots, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 2 medium turnips, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 8 oz. mushrooms, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 2 medium potatoes, cut in 1/4-inch dice
• 2 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and cut in 1/4-inch dice or 4 canned seeded, chopped tomatoes
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup sour cream
• 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1 cup heavy cream or crème fraîche
• 3 Tbs. snipped fresh dill, plus small sprigs for decoration

Heat the oil in a large saucepan or Dutch oven and cook the onions and bacon over medium heat until the onions start to color, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the paprika and cook, stirring, another 2 minutes to release and develop its flavor. Add the veal and just enough stock to cover it. Cover the pan and simmer for 20 minutes.

Add the carrots, turnips, mushrooms, potatoes, tomatoes, and more stock, reserving about 1 cup; don't worry if the liquid doesn't cover the vegetables at this point. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the vegetables are tender, another 20 minutes. Add a little more stock if the soup looks too dry during cooking, bearing in mind that more liquid will be added later.

Put the sour cream in a small bowl and stir in the flour with a fork or whisk; stir in the cream. Pour this into the soup and bring it to a boil, stirring constantly. Simmer for 2 minutes. Taste and adjust the salt and pepper. Just before serving, stir in the chopped fresh dill and toss some sprigs on top for decoration, if you like.

Walnut & Rum-Raisin Crêpes with Whipped-Cream Chocolate Sauce

These crêpes, known as gundel paliscinta, are deep, dark, and delicious, and the sauce is both unusual and outstanding -- the whipped cream folded in at the end gives it an amazing texture. In many Hungarian restaurants, these crêpes are flamed with Grand Marnier when presented. While it is a dramatic touch, I really think it's gilding the lily.

For the crêpes:

• 2 large eggs
• 1/2 cup cold milk
• 1/2 cup cold sparkling water; more as needed
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 6-3/4 oz. (1-1/2 cups) all-purpose flour
• Melted butter for frying the crêpes

For the filling:

• 1/2 cup dark rum
• 1/2 cup golden raisins
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1-1/4 cups walnut halves, coarsely chopped
• 2 Tbs. chopped candied orange peel or 1/2 tsp. grated orange zest
• 1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1 Tbs. cocoa powder
• Pinch salt

For the sauce:

• 1/4 cup cocoa powder
• 1/3 cup sugar
• 2 tsp. all-purpose flour
• Pinch salt
• 1 cup milk
• 3 oz. semisweet chocolate, finely chopped
• 1/2 cup heavy cream

To make the crêpes

Whisk the eggs with the cold milk, sparkling water, and salt. Whisking steadily, sift the flour over the egg mixture in a gradual but steady "rain" to make a smooth batter. Let sit for 20 min. and then add more sparkling water if necessary to get the consistency of heavy cream.

Heat a 6- to 8-inch crêpe or omelet pan (nonstick is fine but not necessary). Brush the pan with melted butter. Tilting and turning the pan with one hand, pour in just enough batter to cover the pan's surface, about 3 Tbs. Let the crêpe cook until golden on the underside, 1 to 2 minutes. (don't undercook them) and then flip or turn the crêpe with a small spatula or your fingers to cook the other side until just set, about 30 seconds more. The side cooked first will be prettier and should be the outer side when filling the crêpes.

Adjust the heat so you get a definite sizzle when adding the batter, and thin the batter if the crêpes are too thick and flabby. Stack the finished crêpes on a plate as you go. Cover with plastic and refrigerate until using, up to three days ahead. You can also wrap the crêpes tightly and freeze them (put a piece of waxed paper between each one for easier separation).

To make the filling

Heat the rum and soak the raisins in it while assembling the other ingredients. In a small saucepan, bring the cream and sugar to a boil, stirring, and add the walnuts, candied orange peel (or zest), cinnamon, cocoa powder, and salt. Bring back to a boil, stirring, and cook until the liquid has reduced almost completely but the nuts are still well coated and glossy, about 3 minutes. Stir in the raisins and rum and cool. You can make this filling a day or two ahead and refrigerate it until time to use.

For the chocolate sauce

In a medium saucepan, combine the cocoa powder, sugar, flour, and salt. Whisking steadily, slowly pour in the milk to make a smooth paste. Bring the mixture to a boil and cook about 30 seconds to cook off the raw floury taste, and then remove from the heat and add the chopped chocolate. Stir until smooth, cover loosely with plastic, and cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally to help it cool and prevent a skin from forming. Just before serving the crêpes, whip the cream until it just forms soft peaks. Stir about one-quarter of the whipped cream into the chocolate to lighten it, and then carefully fold the rest of the whipped cream into the sauce until well blended.

To finish

Spread about 2 Tbs. of the filling on the underside of a crêpe (reheat the filling slightly if it's cold from the refrigerator). Fold the crêpe in half, and then in half again to make a quarter circle. Repeat with the remaining crêpes, dividing the filling evenly. You can do this early on the day of serving and just keep the filled crêpes covered at room temperature.

In a large frying pan, heat 2 Tbs. of butter over medium heat until sizzling. Add the filled crêpes to the pan without crowding them (do this in batches if you need to). Cook the crêpes until warmed through and browned on each side, about 1 min. per side. Add more butter if necessary to the pan during cooking.

Arrange 3 crêpes on each plate and drizzle a generous ribbon of chocolate sauce on top, passing more sauce at the table. Serve immediately.

Russian Chocolate Braid

This braided sweet bread is based on a soft potato-and-sour-cream dough, filled with a thick pastry cream and flecked with mini chocolate chips. The pastry cream should be quite stiff so that it doesn't ooze out from the dough; make it just after you make the dough to allow enough time to cool.

for the pastry cream:

• 1 cup milk
• 2-inch piece vanilla bean, slashed lengthwise, seeds scraped out, or 1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• 3 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1/4 tsp. table salt
• 2 large egg yolks

• 1 recipe Sour Cream & Potato Sweet Dough

to finish the bread:

• 1/2 cup mini chocolate chips (semi- or bittersweet)
• 1 large egg, beaten

Make the pastry cream:

 In a medium saucepan, warm the milk over medium heat (if you’re using a vanilla bean, add it now) just until a skin forms. Take the pan off the heat. In a medium mixing bowl, combine the sugar, flour, and salt. Add the yolks, beating with a wooden spoon. Whisk in the warm milk in a thin stream, whisking constantly. Return the milk mixture to the saucepan. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture is extremely thick and gluey (you’ll need to switch to a wooden spoon), about 5 minutes. If you’re using vanilla extract, stir it in now. Immediately force the pastry cream through a sieve. Gently press a sheet of waxed paper or plastic onto the surface of the hot pastry cream to prevent a skin from forming. Let cool and then refrigerate until ready to use it.

Line a heavy baking sheet (or an insulated sheet or two sheets sandwiched together) with parchment or butter it. Roll the dough into a rectangle about 13x16 inches and about 1/8 inch thick. Stir the chilled pastry cream to soften it and then spread it over the dough in a thin layer. Scatter the chocolate chips evenly over the surface. Roll the rectangle into a cylinder from the wider side and pinch the long edge to seal. Put the cylinder on the baking sheet. Cut the cylinder in half lengthwise, splitting it into two thin strips. Arrange the strips parallel to one another so that the filling is facing up, push them together, and wrap them around each other to form a twist, working from the center.

Position a rack in the middle on the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Cover the shaped dough and proof until it’s large, puffy, and remains indented when lightly pressed with your fingertip, about 45 minutes.

Brush the braid with the beaten egg, taking care not to smear the filling or dislodge the chocolate bits. Bake until golden brown, about 35 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through baking. Let cool on a rack for 1 hour before slicing.

Grilled Steak and Peppered Spaetzle with Black Trumpet Mushrooms and Shallot Marmalade

This modern update on homey beef Stroganoff elevates it to a restaurant-worthy steak dinner: grilled flatiron steak on a bed of spaetzle with caramelized shallots and earthy, fragrant black trumpet mushrooms, topped with a drizzle of crème fraîche

For the shallot marmalade:

• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 8 oz. shallots, sliced 1/8 inch thick (1-1/2 cups)
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup sherry vinegar

For the spaetzle:

• 1 cup sour cream
• 1/4 cup whole milk
• 2 large eggs
• 4 tsp. kosher salt
• 1 tsp. freshly cracked black peppercorns
• 9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour

For the mushrooms:

• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 5-1/4 oz. black trumpet mushrooms, washed and thickly sliced (3 cups)
• 3 Tbs. finely chopped shallots
• 2 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
• 1-1/2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
• 2 Tbs. sherry vinegar; more to taste
• 1-1/2 tsp. white truffle oil (optional)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil

For the cooking the steaks and serving:

• 4 6-oz. beef flatiron steaks
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup crème fraîche or sour cream, whisked to to loosen
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• Dill sprigs, for garnish

Make the shallot marmalade:

Melt the butter in a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the sugar and vinegar, reduce the heat to medium low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 15 minutes.

Make the spaetzle:

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Have ready a large bowl of ice water.

Purée the sour cream, milk, eggs, salt, and cracked pepper in a blender until smooth. Pour the mixture into large bowl and fold in the flour.

To cook the spaetzle, place a spaetzle maker over the boiling water. Push the dough through the holes, letting it fall into the water below. (If you don’t have a spaetzle maker, use a rubber spatula to push the dough through the holes of a colander set over the pot of water.) The dough will form small dumplings as it drops into the water. Allow the spaetzle to rise to the surface and float for about 30 seconds before transferring it to the ice water with a slotted spoon. Let cool completely, about 5 minutes. Drain well, transfer to a large bowl, toss with the oil, and reserve.

Cook the mushrooms:

Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over high heat until very hot. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until softened, 5 minutes. Add the shallots, garlic, and thyme. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in the sherry vinegar and continue to cook until the pan is almost dry, about 1 minute.

Take the pan off the heat and drizzle in the truffle oil (if using). Season to taste with salt and pepper, and a touch of vinegar, if necessary. Keep warm.

Grill the steaks and serve:

Season the steak generously with salt and pepper. Heat a grill pan (or a large cast-iron skillet) over medium-high heat until very hot. Working in batches if necessary, grill the beef until medium rare (130°F to 135°F on an instant-read thermometer), 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes.

In a small bowl, combine the crème fraîche and 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper.

Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the
shallot marmalade and cook until heated through and thinned, about 2
minutes. Add the spaetzle and the mushrooms; cook, stirring, until
heated through, 2 to 3 minutes.

Thinly slice the steak across the grain. Serve the steak over the
spaetzle, drizzled with the crème fraîche and garnished with the dill
sprigs.

Pan-Seared Chicken Thighs with Beer and Grainy Mustard Sauce

Maple syrup adds a hint of sweetness that rounds out the mustard’s bite in this quick pan sauce. Not in the mood for chicken? Try it with pork chops instead.

• 8 small bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (4 to 5 oz. each), trimmed of excess skin and fat
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tsp. vegetable oil
• 2 medium shallots, minced
• 1-1/2 tsp. all-purpose flour
• 1 cup amber lager, such as Dos Equis Ambar
• 1/2 cup lower-salt chicken broth
• 1-1/2 Tbs. pure maple syrup
• 1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme; more for garnish
• 1 Tbs. whole-grain mustard
• 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven, set a large rimmed baking sheet on the rack, and heat the oven to 475°F. Season the chicken thighs all over with salt and pepper.


Heat the oil in a heavy-duty ovenproof 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Swirl to coat the pan bottom. Arrange the chicken in the pan skin side down in a single layer (it will likely be a snug fit), cover with an ovenproof splatter screen (if you have one) and cook until the skin is deep golden-brown, about 7 minutes. Turn the thighs and transfer the skillet and splatter screen, if using, to the oven. Roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of a thigh registers 170°F, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a plate.


Pour off all but 1 Tbs. fat from the skillet. Add the shallots and sauté over medium heat until softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in the flour until combined. Stir in the beer, chicken broth, maple syrup, and thyme. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil, scraping up any browned bits from the skillet with a wooden spoon. Simmer vigorously until reduced to about 1 cup, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the mustard, then the butter. Season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper.


To serve, dip each chicken thigh in the sauce and turn to coat. Arrange 2 thighs on each of 4 plates, spoon additional sauce over them, and garnish with the thyme. Serve immediately.

Pork Chops with a Dijon-Rye Crust

It’s the easy-to-make rye bread crust that transforms these skillet chops into something special. Set under the broiler for just a minute, the crust turns a lovely golden brown.

• 3 slices caraway rye bread (such as Pepperidge Farm seeded Jewish rye), crusts trimmed
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted
• 4 bone-in, center-cut pork chops, each 1-inch thick (about 2 lb. total)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 3 Tbs. coarse-grained Dijon mustard

Position one rack in the center of the oven and a second rack directly under the broiler. Heat the oven to 400°F.

Pulse the bread in a food processor until it forms coarse crumbs. Drizzle in the melted butter and pulse a few more times to evenly moisten the crumbs.

Season the pork chops generously with salt and pepper. Heat the oil for 1 minute in a 12-inch ovenproof skillet over high heat. Put the chops in the skillet and cook until nicely browned, 2 to 3 minutes per side.

Remove the skillet from the heat and transfer the chops to a plate. Spread the mustard on one side of the chops and then gently press on the breadcrumbs.

Return the chops to the pan, crumb side up, put the pan in the oven, and cook until the centers of the chops are slightly firm to the touch and they register 145°F on an instant-read thermometer, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the skillet from the oven and switch the oven temperature to high broil. Let it heat for about 3 minutes. Put the skillet full of chops under the broiler just long enough to brown the crumb crust, 30 to 60 seconds. Serve immediately.

Flourless Chocolate Cake with Chocolate Glaze

For the cake:

• 12 oz. bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped (2-1/4 cups)
• 6 oz. (3/4 cup) unsalted butter, cut into six pieces; more for the pan
• 5 large eggs
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 1-1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1/4 tsp. table salt
• 3/4 oz. (1/4 cup) unsweetened natural cocoa powder, sifted if lumpy; more for the pan

For the glaze:

• 4 oz. bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped (3/4 cup)
• 1-1/2 oz. (3 Tbs.) unsalted butter

Make the cake:

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 300°F. Lightly butter the bottom of a 9x2-inch round cake pan and line it with a round of parchment. Lightly butter the parchment and the sides of the pan and dust with cocoa powder. Tap out any excess.

Melt the chocolate and butter in the microwave or in a medium metal bowl set in a skillet of barely simmering water, stirring with a rubber spatula until smooth. Remove the bowl from the water bath and set aside to cool slightly. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine the eggs, sugar, vanilla, salt, and 2 Tbs. water. Beat on mediumhigh speed until the mixture is very foamy, pale in color, and doubled in volume, 2 min. Reduce the mixer speed to low and gradually pour in the chocolate mixture. Increase the speed to medium high and continue beating until well blended, about 30 seconds. Add the cocoa powder and mix on medium low just until blended, about 30 seconds.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until a pick inserted in the center comes out looking wet with small gooey clumps, 40 to 45 min. Don’t overcook. Let cool in the pan on a rack for 30 min. If necessary, gently push the edges down with your fingertips until the layer is even. Run a small knife around the edge of the pan to loosen the cake. Cover the cake pan with a wire rack and invert. Remove the pan and parchment and let the cake cool completely. The cake may look cinched in around its sides, which is fine. Transfer to a cake plate. Cover and refrigerate the cake until it’s very cold, at least 6 hours or overnight.

Glaze the cake:

Tip:

To slice this cake (or any dense, sticky cake), heat the knife first, either by dipping it in a tall container of very hot water or by holding it under hot running water for a few seconds. Then wipe it dry before cutting the cake. The knife will cool quickly, and the cake will start sticking, so expect to rinse and repeat several times. A crème brûlée torch, if you have one, is also handy for heating up a knife.

Melt the chocolate and butter in the microwave or in a medium metal bowl set in a skillet of barely simmering water, stirring with a rubber spatula until smooth. Pour the warm glaze over the chilled cake and, using an offset spatula, spread the glaze evenly to within 1/4 inch of the edge. Refrigerate the cake until the glaze is set, 20 to 40 min. Before serving, remove the cake from the refrigerator and let it come to room temperature, 20 to 30 min. To serve, cut the cake into small, if not tiny, slices using a hot knife.

Smoked Salmon & Dill Mascarpone Toasts

• 8 oz. mascarpone
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh dill, plus 16 small fronds for garnish
• Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 medium fennel bulb (about 8 oz.), cut in half through the core and cored
• 1 recipe Toast Points
• 4 oz. sliced cold-smoked salmon, cut into 16 even pieces

Mix the mascarpone, dill, 1 tsp. lemon zest, and 2 tsp. lemon juice in a medium bowl. Season with salt, pepper, and more lemon juice or zest to taste. Using a sharp vegetable peeler, peel the fennel into long, thin strips by pressing firmly against it; season the strips with salt.

To assemble, spread the toasts with some of the mascarpone and then cut each toast into four even squares. Top each square with a couple of pieces of the fennel, a curl of the salmon, a dill frond, and a few grinds of black pepper.

Veal Stew with Bacon and Winter Vegetables

This hearty stew is the perfect dinner for a cold winter's night. Bacon adds a touch of smoky flavor to the mild, tender veal.

• 3 lb. boneless veal shoulder or leg, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces
• 2 oz. thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
• 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tsp. minced fresh thyme
• 1 tsp. minced fresh marjoram
• 2 1-inch wide strips orange zest
• 2 dried bay leaves
• 1 cup sweet vermouth
• 2-1/2 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought chicken broth
• 3 cups diced celery root (1-inch dice)
• 3 cups carrot pieces (1-inch pieces)
• 2 Tbs. coarse-grained mustard

Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Spread the veal on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.

In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, cook the bacon in the oil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned but not crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate and set aside. Do not wipe out the pan.

Heat the bacon fat over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of the veal with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the veal to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the veal, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the veal is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.

Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the onion, celery, and coarsely chopped carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in garlic, thyme, marjoram, orange zest, and bay leaves and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Return the bacon to the pot.

Add the vermouth, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the chicken broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.

Return the veal to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.

After 30 minutes of stewing, add the celery root and carrot pieces to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, and cook until the veal is fork-tender, 1 to 1-1/2 hours more (shoulder cuts will take longer than leg cuts).

Stir in the mustard. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Pork Chops with Beer, Cabbage & Apples

• 4 center-cut pork chops, about 1-1/2 inches thick
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
• 1 Tbs. Dijon-style mustard
• 1/2 head Savoy cabbage (about 1 lb.), cored and thinly sliced
• 2 tart apples, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch slices
• (see "How to core an apple")
• 1 cup beer or ale
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme or 1/2 tsp. dried
• 1/2 cup homemade or low-salt canned chicken stock

Season the chops on both sides with salt and pepper.

Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add the chops and cook on one side until well browned; turn and brown other side. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

Put the onion in the pan and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the mustard and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Add the cabbage and apples, season lightly with more salt, and cook, stirring, for another minute. Add the beer, thyme, and stock. Bring to a boil and cook for about 5 minutes to intensify the flavors.

Return the chops to the skillet, burying them in the cabbage mixture. Cover the pan and simmer until the pork is just cooked through, about 15 minutes. Season to taste. Arrange the chops on plates and top with the cabbage.

Braised Red Cabbage with Red Zinfandel

This pleasantly sweet side dish yearns to be served with roast pork and potatoes.

• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 1/2 large onion (I like red), thinly sliced 
• 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 lb. red cabbage, thinly sliced (6 to 7 cups)
• 1 tsp. ground allspice
• 1/4 tsp. ground nutmeg
• 3/4 tsp. coarse salt 
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1 cup red Zinfandel or other good-quality red wine
• 1/3 cup red-wine vinegar
• 1/2 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar

In a large pan that’s deep enough to accommodate the cabbage when raw, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and cook slowly over medium-low heat until the onion is golden brown (it’s okay if the edges start to crisp), 15 to 20 minutes. Add the cabbage and sauté, tossing with tongs, until it has collapsed slightly and is no longer stiff, about 2 minutes.

Raise the heat to high and add the allspice, nutmeg, and salt. Add pepper generously to taste (about 20 grinds) and stir to coat the cabbage with the spices. Add the wine and bring to a boil. Cover the pan, reduce the heat to medium low, and cook until the cabbage is almost tender and the wine is absorbed, about 40 minutes. Raise the heat to medium and add the vinegar, stirring to deglaze the pan. Add the brown sugar, stir, and cover again, reducing the heat to medium low. Continue to braise until the liquid is absorbed and the cabbage is very tender, about 30 minutes more. If the cabbage is done but there’s still liquid in the pan, raise the heat to medium high and cook, uncovered, until the liquid has reduced to a glaze. Toss to coat and transfer to a serving dish.

Paprika Chicken with Kielbasa

This is a riff on a traditional Hungarian dish, Chicken Paprikás. I’ve added kielbasa and pimentón because I love the smoky flavor they contribute.

• 6 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (about 2 lb.)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 to 5 Tbs. olive oil
• 1 lb. kielbasa, cut on the diagonal into 12 chunks
• 1 medium onion, small diced
• 2 medium garlic cloves, chopped
• 2 medium green bell peppers, medium diced
• 2 Tbs. sweet Hungarian paprika
• 1 tsp. sweet smoked Spanish paprika (pimentón)
• 1 28-oz. can diced tomatoes
• 1 cup low-salt chicken broth
• 1/2 cup sour cream
• 3 Tbs. chopped fresh parsley

Season the chicken on both sides with 3/4 tsp. salt and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a 6-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Sear the chicken on both sides until nicely golden brown, about 8 minutes total. Transfer the chicken to a plate and sear the cut ends of the kielbasa until golden brown, about 2 minutes total. Transfer the kielbasa to the plate with the chicken. Pour off and discard the fat from the pan.

Add 2 more Tbs. of the oil, reduce the heat to medium, and cook the onion, stirring occasionally, until beginning to soften, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant and the onions are completely soft and golden, 2 to 3 minutes more. Push the onions and garlic to one side of the pan and add 1 Tbs. of olive oil if the pan looks dry. Add the peppers and cook, stirring once or twice, until beginning to brown, 4 to 5 minutes.

Remove the pot from the heat, add both of the paprikas and stir together with all the vegetables for 30 seconds. Return the pot to the heat and add the tomatoes, chicken broth, and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Immerse the chicken in the sauce and scatter the kielbasa on top. Cover and simmer over medium-low heat until the thighs are cooked through (cut into a thigh near the bone to check for doneness), 25 to 30 minutes. Remove the skin from the chicken if you like. Stir in the sour cream, season with salt to taste and serve sprinkled with parsley.