Gingerbread Cookies

Lightly flour the sharp edge of your cookie cutters to keep the dough from sticking.Visit the Guide to Christmas for more holiday recipes and tips for perfect Christmas cookies.

• 14-1/4 oz. (3 cups plus 2 Tbs.) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 2 tsp. ground ginger
• 1 tsp. baking soda
• 1/2 tsp. ground cloves
• 1/2 tsp. table salt
• 3/4 lb. (1-1/2 cups) unsalted butter, softened at room temperature
• 1 cup very firmly packed light brown sugar
• 1/4 cup molasses
• 1 large egg

Tip:

For the best results, measure your flour by weight instead of volume. (1 cup of all-purpose flour equals 4-1/2 oz.) If you don’t have a scale, be sure to use the proper technique when filling your measuring cups.

Sift together the flour, cinnamon, ginger, baking soda, cloves, and salt. Using a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, beat the butter, brown sugar, and molasses on medium until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Beat in the egg until thoroughly combined. Scrape the bowl with a rubber spatula. With the mixer on low speed, slowly add the flour until blended. Divide the dough, wrap each half in plastic, and chill until firm enough to roll, about 1 hour.

Position a rack in the center of the oven; heat the oven to 350°F. Lay each piece of dough between two long sheets of parchment or waxed paper. If the dough is very firm, let it sit until pliable. Roll it to about 1/8 inch thick. Peel off the top layer of paper and cut out cookies with a cookie cutter. Put the sheet of dough in the freezer for a few minutes until the dough firms enough to easily transfer the cutouts to ungreased cookie sheets (space them about 2  inches apart). Gather and reroll the scraps. Bake until the edges are golden brown, 10 to 12  min. Let cool on the sheet for 1 minute before transferring the cookies to a rack to cool.

The cookies can be stored in an airtight container for three to four days.

Sear-Roasted Beef Tenderloin

Tenderloin has a wonderful texture, but its flavor can be a bit bland. This recipe brings out its natural goodness by salting ahead to concentrate flavors, searing to develop a rich crust, and glazing with ingredients that add depth.

• 1 trimmed whole beef tenderloin (3-1/2 to 4 lb.)
• Kosher salt
• 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
• 1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
• 1 medium clove garlic, mashed to a paste
• 1 tsp. honey
• 1 tsp. soy sauce
• 1 tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. olive oil

Fold the thinner end of the tenderloin under to create an evenly thick roast; secure with twine. Rub the beef all over with 1 Tbs. salt. Wrap it in butcher paper or plastic wrap, put it on a platter or rimmed baking sheet, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 2 days.

Remove the beef from the refrigerator and let sit for about an hour before roasting. Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 475°F.

In a small bowl, combine the mustard, Worcestershire sauce, garlic, honey, soy sauce, thyme, and a few grinds of pepper; set aside.

Heat a flame-proof roasting pan over medium-high heat, using 2 burners if necessary. Add the oil, swirling the pan to coat, and then add the beef. Cook, turning with tongs, until well browned on all sides, about 12 minutes total. Transfer to a cutting board; wipe out the pan.

Brush the glaze over all of the beef, return it to the roasting pan, and roast to an internal temperature of 120°F for rare, 16 to 20 minutes, or 125°F for medium rare, 22 to 26 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board, tent with foil, and let rest for at least 15 minutes (and up to 1 hour if serving at room temperature). If serving warm or at room temperature, slice the tenderloin 1/2 inch thick and pour any juice that has accumulated over the sliced beef, if you like. If serving cold, wrap the tenderloin in plastic wrap once it has cooled and refrigerate it for up to 24 hours.

Spice-Cured Salmon with Beets & Horseradish Cream

Cured salmon (gravad lax) is quintessentially Scandinavian. I have a recipe for every season, but this is our Christmas favorite thanks to the festive warm spices and orange zest. I love the combination of tangy raw beets and spicy horseradish cream with the silky, citrusy salmon. It makes an elegant first course and a deliciously cool counterpoint to hot White Wine & Elderflower Gløgg. To save time, you can substitute cream-style prepared horseradish for the fresh horseradish cream, though the flavor won’t be the same.

For the salmon

• 2 Tbs. black peppercorns
• 2 Tbs. coriander seeds
• 20 whole cloves
• 20 green cardamom pods
• 9 oz. kosher salt (about 1-3/4 cups Diamond Crystal or 1 cup Morton’s)
• 1-1/2 cups granulated sugar
• 2 Tbs. finely grated orange zest (from 2 oranges)
• 1 4-lb. skin-on salmon fillet (preferably wild), belly flap trimmed and pin bones removed

For the beets and horseradish cream

• 3 medium red beets, peeled, halved, and very thinly sliced
• 1/4 cup cider vinegar
• 3/4 cup crème fraîche
• 3/4 cup finely grated fresh horseradish
• 1-1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For serving

• Rye crispbreads, such as Finn Crisp or Wasa
• Fresh dill sprigs
• Lemon wedges

Cure the salmon

With a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, finely grind the peppercorns, coriander, cloves, and cardamom pods. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in the salt, sugar, and orange zest.

Arrange several long pieces of plastic wrap on a large rimmed baking sheet. Put the salmon on the plastic skin side down, cover the flesh evenly with the salt mixture, and wrap tightly. Refrigerate for 4 days.

Make the beets and horseradish cream

In a medium bowl, toss the beets with 2 Tbs. of the vinegar; let stand for at least 30 minutes.

In a small bowl, whisk the crème fraîche, horseradish, sugar, and the remaining 2 Tbs. vinegar; season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate.

Serve

Unwrap the salmon and rinse under cold running water to remove the curing mixture. Pat dry with paper towels. Transfer to a cutting board and very thinly slice the salmon (Using a long, thin, sharp knife, slice the salmon as thinly as you can. Starting at the wider end if the filet, hold the knife at a 45-degree angle and try for slices so thin that you can see the knife through the salmon). Slice only as much as you need. Garnish with the dill sprigs and serve with the beets, horseradish cream, crispbreads, and lemon wedges.

Caramel Potatoes

It may seem odd to cook potatoes in caramel, but they’re incredibly delicious, and Christmas dinner at our house wouldn’t be the same without them. The secret to this recipe is letting the potatoes simmer slowly and gently in the caramel, turning them every now and again, to coat them layer by layer.

• 4-1/2 lb. baby potatoes (about 1 inch in diameter)
• Kosher salt
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) salted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

Put the potatoes in a 6- to 8-quart pot, add cool water to cover and 1/4 cup salt. Cover and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to maintain a simmer and cook until the potatoes are just tender when pierced with a fork, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain and transfer to a baking sheet to cool slightly, about 20 minutes. Peel.

Put the sugar in a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat and let it melt, stirring occasionally with a silicone spatula, about 6 minutes; it will be a medium amber color. Stir in the butter and 1/2 tsp. salt until the foam from the butter begins to subside, 1 to 2 minutes. The butter and caramel will be separate at this point.

Add the potatoes and stir once to coat. The caramel will seize and become stringy, but that’s OK. Use the spatula to push any hard bits of caramel to the bottom of the skillet so they can melt again; as the potatoes cook, the caramel will smooth out into a homogenous sauce. Adjust the heat to keep the caramel at a simmer and cook, occasionally turning the potatoes, until the caramel thickens and begins to coat them, about 20 minutes. Gently and constantly turn the potatoes until they are coated layer by layer with the caramel, 5 to 10 minutes more; there will still be a thin layer of caramel in the bottom of the skillet. Remove any potatoes that fall apart as you stir. Serve the potatoes with the caramel.

Applesauce Trifles

I created these trifles of caramelized oat-rye-spelt clusters, vanilla-infused applesauce, and whipped cream as a riff on a classic Scandinavian dessert known as Veiled Country Lass. Belle de Boskoop apples, native to the Netherlands, are my favorite for making applesauce, but other tart-sweet baking apples like Jonagold or Pink Lady will do. You can use just oats to make the clusters, but the rye and spelt flakes add a lovely nutty note.

• 4-1/2 lb. tart-sweet apples (about 9), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 2/3 cup granulated sugar
• 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped, or 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1 cup rolled oats
• 1 cup rye flakes
• 1 cup spelt flakes
• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) salted butter, 2 oz. melted and 2 oz. cut into 4 pieces
• 1 cup packed dark brown sugar
• 3/4 cup hazelnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped
• 1-1/2 cups heavy cream

Combine the apples, sugar, vanilla seeds and pod, if using, and 1/2 cup water in a heavy-duty 4-quart saucepan. Cover and simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally and adding more water 1/4 cup at a time if the apples become dry, until broken down into a chunky sauce, about 30 minutes. Transfer the applesauce to a medium bowl and add the vanilla extract, if using. Let cool and then refrigerate until chilled, about 1-1/2 hours. Remove and discard the vanilla bean pod, if used.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F. Toss the oats, rye, and spelt with the 2 oz. melted butter on a large rimmed baking sheet. Spread in an even layer and bake, stirring once, until golden, about 15 minutes. Set aside.

Melt the remaining 2 oz. butter with the brown sugar in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar is completely melted and bubbling slightly, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the hazelnuts and toasted grains, and toss until clusters form. Spread the clusters on a large rimmed baking sheet and let cool completely.

In ten 8- to 10-oz. parfait glasses, alternate two 1/2-cup layers each of applesauce and clusters, starting with the applesauce.

In a large chilled bowl with a hand-held electric mixer, whip the cream on medium-high speed to medium-firm peaks, about 2 minutes. Top the trifles with the cream and serve.

Roast Pork with Crisp Crackling & Red Currant Gravy

Be sure to offer everyone some of the fragrant onion-orange stuffing and crunchy crackling along with their slices of juicy pork (pork is especially popular in Denmark, where we eat it for almost every happy occasion.) It’s the centerpiece of our Christmas table. My “special gravy,” as we call it, gets its deep sweet-and-savory flavor from homemade stock, the roast drippings, creamy Danish blue cheese, and red currant jelly. This dish is equally good cold the next day, on rye bread with a sprinkle of coarse salt and leftover braised cabbage.

For the pork

• 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) salted butter
• 1 medium yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced
• 3 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1 Tbs. fresh thyme
• 6-1/2 lb. skin-on boneless pork loin roast, fat trimmed to 1/4 inch
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 medium orange, halved and cut crosswise 1/8 inch thick

For the gravy

• 2-1/2 cups Red Wine Chicken Stock or lower-salt chicken broth
• 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) salted butter
• 1-1/8 oz. (1/4 cup) all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 2 Tbs. red currant jelly
• 1 Tbs. crumbled Danish blue cheese
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Roast the pork

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F.

Melt the butter in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and tender, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and thyme and cook for 1 minute more. Transfer to a plate; let cool.

Remove the piece of skin and fat from the top of the roast. Using a sharp knife, score the skin crosswise through to the fat at 1/2-inch intervals; set aside. Score the meat in a crosshatch pattern, cutting about 1/2 inch deep. Season generously with salt and pepper, and spread the onion-garlic mixture over the surface. Lay the orange slices on top, replace the skin and fat, and tie the roast with twine crosswise at 1-1/2-inch intervals. Generously season the skin with salt. (See the Test Kitchen post for step-by-step photos of how to prep the roast.)

Transfer to a large rimmed baking sheet and roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the roast reads 145°F, about 1-1/2 hours.

Transfer the roast to a cutting board and let rest for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour.

Make the gravy

Meanwhile, pour off and discard the fat from the baking sheet; set aside. In a 1-quart saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a simmer. Pour 1 cup of the stock onto the baking sheet and stir, scraping up the browned bits. Pour through a medium-mesh sieve back into the saucepan and keep warm over low heat.

(At this point, if the skin is not completely crisp and bubbly, untie it from the roast, put it back on the baking sheet, and bake until it is. Lay it back on top of the roast.)

Melt the butter in a 2-quart saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the flour and stir constantly until caramel color, 3 to 5 minutes. Whisk in the stock and simmer, whisking often, until the flour taste is gone, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the cream, jelly, and blue cheese and simmer, whisking often, until the gravy is smooth and thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serve

Remove and discard the twine (if you haven’t already) and carve the pork as shown below. Include crackling and orange-onion stuffing with each portion and serve with the gravy.

Applesauce Trifles

I created these trifles of caramelized oat-rye-spelt clusters, vanilla-infused applesauce, and whipped cream as a riff on a classic Scandinavian dessert known as Veiled Country Lass. Belle de Boskoop apples, native to the Netherlands, are my favorite for making applesauce, but other tart-sweet baking apples like Jonagold or Pink Lady will do. You can use just oats to make the clusters, but the rye and spelt flakes add a lovely nutty note.

• 4-1/2 lb. tart-sweet apples (about 9), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 2/3 cup granulated sugar
• 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped, or 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1 cup rolled oats
• 1 cup rye flakes
• 1 cup spelt flakes
• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) salted butter, 2 oz. melted and 2 oz. cut into 4 pieces
• 1 cup packed dark brown sugar
• 3/4 cup hazelnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped
• 1-1/2 cups heavy cream

Combine the apples, sugar, vanilla seeds and pod, if using, and 1/2 cup water in a heavy-duty 4-quart saucepan. Cover and simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally and adding more water 1/4 cup at a time if the apples become dry, until broken down into a chunky sauce, about 30 minutes. Transfer the applesauce to a medium bowl and add the vanilla extract, if using. Let cool and then refrigerate until chilled, about 1-1/2 hours. Remove and discard the vanilla bean pod, if used.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F. Toss the oats, rye, and spelt with the 2 oz. melted butter on a large rimmed baking sheet. Spread in an even layer and bake, stirring once, until golden, about 15 minutes. Set aside.

Melt the remaining 2 oz. butter with the brown sugar in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar is completely melted and bubbling slightly, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the hazelnuts and toasted grains, and toss until clusters form. Spread the clusters on a large rimmed baking sheet and let cool completely.

In ten 8- to 10-oz. parfait glasses, alternate two 1/2-cup layers each of applesauce and clusters, starting with the applesauce.

In a large chilled bowl with a hand-held electric mixer, whip the cream on medium-high speed to medium-firm peaks, about 2 minutes. Top the trifles with the cream and serve.

White Wine & Elderflower Gløgg

Throughout December, Scandinavians meet outside to drink hot gløgg and sing carols—it’s like a cocktail party in the snow. My neighbors and I do it almost every night. Red wine is traditional in this spiced wine punch, but I think white wine is a nice change of pace.

• 2 750-ml bottles dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
• 2 cups elderflower cordial
• 2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 10 green cardamom pods
• 1-1/3 cups golden raisins
• 1 cup sliced almonds
• 1/4 cup Cognac

In a 4-quart pot, bring the wine, cordial, sugar, and cardamom pods to a simmer over mediumhigh heat, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar. Turn the heat down and gently simmer for 5 minutes. Discard the cardamom pods; add the raisins, almonds, and Cognac. Serve hot in small glasses with spoons for scooping up the raisins and almonds.

Sweet & Sour Spiced Cabbage

Braising cabbage with butter, apple juice, red currant jelly, and spices gives it amazingly rich flavor (the dish is an essential part of a traditional Scandinavian holiday meal). Leftovers are delicious on our iconic open faced sandwiches, smørrebrød.

• 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) salted butter
• 1 large (3-lb.) red cabbage, halved, cored, and sliced 3/4 inch thick
• 2 cups unsweetened apple juice
• 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
• 1/3 cup apple cider vinegar
• 1/4 cup red currant jelly
• 3 bay leaves
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 1 star anise
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Melt the butter in a 6-quart pot over medium heat. Add the cabbage and cook, stirring occasionally, until just wilted, about 6 minutes. Add the apple juice, onion, vinegar, jelly, bay leaves, cinnamon, star anise, and 1 Tbs. salt. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally and adjusting the heat as needed, until the cabbage is very tender, about 2 hours. If there is a lot of liquid in the pot, boil uncovered until only about 1/2 inch remains. Remove and discard the whole spices, season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.

Sear-Roasted Beef Tenderloin

Tenderloin has a wonderful texture, but its flavor can be a bit bland. This recipe brings out its natural goodness by salting ahead to concentrate flavors, searing to develop a rich crust, and glazing with ingredients that add depth.

• 1 trimmed whole beef tenderloin (3-1/2 to 4 lb.)
• Kosher salt
• 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
• 1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
• 1 medium clove garlic, mashed to a paste
• 1 tsp. honey
• 1 tsp. soy sauce
• 1 tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. olive oil

Fold the thinner end of the tenderloin under to create an evenly thick roast; secure with twine. Rub the beef all over with 1 Tbs. salt. Wrap it in butcher paper or plastic wrap, put it on a platter or rimmed baking sheet, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 2 days.

Remove the beef from the refrigerator and let sit for about an hour before roasting. Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 475°F.

In a small bowl, combine the mustard, Worcestershire sauce, garlic, honey, soy sauce, thyme, and a few grinds of pepper; set aside.

Heat a flame-proof roasting pan over medium-high heat, using 2 burners if necessary. Add the oil, swirling the pan to coat, and then add the beef. Cook, turning with tongs, until well browned on all sides, about 12 minutes total. Transfer to a cutting board; wipe out the pan.

Brush the glaze over all of the beef, return it to the roasting pan, and roast to an internal temperature of 120°F for rare, 16 to 20 minutes, or 125°F for medium rare, 22 to 26 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board, tent with foil, and let rest for at least 15 minutes (and up to 1 hour if serving at room temperature). If serving warm or at room temperature, slice the tenderloin 1/2 inch thick and pour any juice that has accumulated over the sliced beef, if you like. If serving cold, wrap the tenderloin in plastic wrap once it has cooled and refrigerate it for up to 24 hours.

Applesauce Trifles

I created these trifles of caramelized oat-rye-spelt clusters, vanilla-infused applesauce, and whipped cream as a riff on a classic Scandinavian dessert known as Veiled Country Lass. Belle de Boskoop apples, native to the Netherlands, are my favorite for making applesauce, but other tart-sweet baking apples like Jonagold or Pink Lady will do. You can use just oats to make the clusters, but the rye and spelt flakes add a lovely nutty note.

• 4-1/2 lb. tart-sweet apples (about 9), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 2/3 cup granulated sugar
• 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped, or 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1 cup rolled oats
• 1 cup rye flakes
• 1 cup spelt flakes
• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) salted butter, 2 oz. melted and 2 oz. cut into 4 pieces
• 1 cup packed dark brown sugar
• 3/4 cup hazelnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped
• 1-1/2 cups heavy cream

Combine the apples, sugar, vanilla seeds and pod, if using, and 1/2 cup water in a heavy-duty 4-quart saucepan. Cover and simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally and adding more water 1/4 cup at a time if the apples become dry, until broken down into a chunky sauce, about 30 minutes. Transfer the applesauce to a medium bowl and add the vanilla extract, if using. Let cool and then refrigerate until chilled, about 1-1/2 hours. Remove and discard the vanilla bean pod, if used.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F. Toss the oats, rye, and spelt with the 2 oz. melted butter on a large rimmed baking sheet. Spread in an even layer and bake, stirring once, until golden, about 15 minutes. Set aside.

Melt the remaining 2 oz. butter with the brown sugar in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar is completely melted and bubbling slightly, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the hazelnuts and toasted grains, and toss until clusters form. Spread the clusters on a large rimmed baking sheet and let cool completely.

In ten 8- to 10-oz. parfait glasses, alternate two 1/2-cup layers each of applesauce and clusters, starting with the applesauce.

In a large chilled bowl with a hand-held electric mixer, whip the cream on medium-high speed to medium-firm peaks, about 2 minutes. Top the trifles with the cream and serve.

Classic Rice Pudding

When using a vanilla bean, I like to leave it in the pudding and then scrape out the seeds after the pudding has cooled. The seeds scrape out more easily from the softened bean, and the pudding gets an additional boost from the extra time the bean sits in it. This pudding is great as is, but can also be dressed up in dozens of ways (for a few ideas, see Coconut Rice Pudding with Mango, Coffee Rice Pudding, and the variations below).

• 4 cups whole milk
• 1/2 cup raw medium-grain white rice
• Pinch salt
• 1 vanilla bean, split, or 1-1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
• 2 large egg yolks
• 1/3 cup sugar

Dump the milk, rice, salt, and split vanilla bean into a large, heavy saucepan (if you're using vanilla extract, don't add it yet). Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes. Uncover and continue simmering, stirring frequently, until the rice is tender and the pudding is reduced to about 3-1/2 cups, about 8 minutes. It's important to let the pudding simmer gently, not boil, and you'll need to stir constantly toward the end of cooking to prevent scorching.

In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks, sugar, and vanilla extract (if using). Slowly add the cooked rice mixture, whisking constantly. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan, making sure to scrape the bowl. Set the pan over medium-low heat and cook, stirring and scraping the sides and bottom of the pan constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture has thickened and coats the back of the spoon, about 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat. Transfer the pudding to a bowl or serving dish and lay a sheet of plastic wrap right on the pudding's surface to prevent a skin from forming. If you've used a vanilla bean, fish it out when the pudding has cooled, scrape out the seeds, and stir the scrapings into the pudding. Discard the empty bean. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled.

Caramel Potatoes

It may seem odd to cook potatoes in caramel, but they’re incredibly delicious, and Christmas dinner at our house wouldn’t be the same without them. The secret to this recipe is letting the potatoes simmer slowly and gently in the caramel, turning them every now and again, to coat them layer by layer.

• 4-1/2 lb. baby potatoes (about 1 inch in diameter)
• Kosher salt
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) salted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

Put the potatoes in a 6- to 8-quart pot, add cool water to cover and 1/4 cup salt. Cover and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to maintain a simmer and cook until the potatoes are just tender when pierced with a fork, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain and transfer to a baking sheet to cool slightly, about 20 minutes. Peel.

Put the sugar in a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat and let it melt, stirring occasionally with a silicone spatula, about 6 minutes; it will be a medium amber color. Stir in the butter and 1/2 tsp. salt until the foam from the butter begins to subside, 1 to 2 minutes. The butter and caramel will be separate at this point.

Add the potatoes and stir once to coat. The caramel will seize and become stringy, but that’s OK. Use the spatula to push any hard bits of caramel to the bottom of the skillet so they can melt again; as the potatoes cook, the caramel will smooth out into a homogenous sauce. Adjust the heat to keep the caramel at a simmer and cook, occasionally turning the potatoes, until the caramel thickens and begins to coat them, about 20 minutes. Gently and constantly turn the potatoes until they are coated layer by layer with the caramel, 5 to 10 minutes more; there will still be a thin layer of caramel in the bottom of the skillet. Remove any potatoes that fall apart as you stir. Serve the potatoes with the caramel.

Sear-Roasted Beef Tenderloin

Tenderloin has a wonderful texture, but its flavor can be a bit bland. This recipe brings out its natural goodness by salting ahead to concentrate flavors, searing to develop a rich crust, and glazing with ingredients that add depth.

• 1 trimmed whole beef tenderloin (3-1/2 to 4 lb.)
• Kosher salt
• 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
• 1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
• 1 medium clove garlic, mashed to a paste
• 1 tsp. honey
• 1 tsp. soy sauce
• 1 tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. olive oil

Fold the thinner end of the tenderloin under to create an evenly thick roast; secure with twine. Rub the beef all over with 1 Tbs. salt. Wrap it in butcher paper or plastic wrap, put it on a platter or rimmed baking sheet, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 2 days.

Remove the beef from the refrigerator and let sit for about an hour before roasting. Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 475°F.

In a small bowl, combine the mustard, Worcestershire sauce, garlic, honey, soy sauce, thyme, and a few grinds of pepper; set aside.

Heat a flame-proof roasting pan over medium-high heat, using 2 burners if necessary. Add the oil, swirling the pan to coat, and then add the beef. Cook, turning with tongs, until well browned on all sides, about 12 minutes total. Transfer to a cutting board; wipe out the pan.

Brush the glaze over all of the beef, return it to the roasting pan, and roast to an internal temperature of 120°F for rare, 16 to 20 minutes, or 125°F for medium rare, 22 to 26 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board, tent with foil, and let rest for at least 15 minutes (and up to 1 hour if serving at room temperature). If serving warm or at room temperature, slice the tenderloin 1/2 inch thick and pour any juice that has accumulated over the sliced beef, if you like. If serving cold, wrap the tenderloin in plastic wrap once it has cooled and refrigerate it for up to 24 hours.

Spice-Cured Salmon with Beets & Horseradish Cream

Cured salmon (gravad lax) is quintessentially Scandinavian. I have a recipe for every season, but this is our Christmas favorite thanks to the festive warm spices and orange zest. I love the combination of tangy raw beets and spicy horseradish cream with the silky, citrusy salmon. It makes an elegant first course and a deliciously cool counterpoint to hot White Wine & Elderflower Gløgg. To save time, you can substitute cream-style prepared horseradish for the fresh horseradish cream, though the flavor won’t be the same.

For the salmon

• 2 Tbs. black peppercorns
• 2 Tbs. coriander seeds
• 20 whole cloves
• 20 green cardamom pods
• 9 oz. kosher salt (about 1-3/4 cups Diamond Crystal or 1 cup Morton’s)
• 1-1/2 cups granulated sugar
• 2 Tbs. finely grated orange zest (from 2 oranges)
• 1 4-lb. skin-on salmon fillet (preferably wild), belly flap trimmed and pin bones removed

For the beets and horseradish cream

• 3 medium red beets, peeled, halved, and very thinly sliced
• 1/4 cup cider vinegar
• 3/4 cup crème fraîche
• 3/4 cup finely grated fresh horseradish
• 1-1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For serving

• Rye crispbreads, such as Finn Crisp or Wasa
• Fresh dill sprigs
• Lemon wedges

Cure the salmon

With a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, finely grind the peppercorns, coriander, cloves, and cardamom pods. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in the salt, sugar, and orange zest.

Arrange several long pieces of plastic wrap on a large rimmed baking sheet. Put the salmon on the plastic skin side down, cover the flesh evenly with the salt mixture, and wrap tightly. Refrigerate for 4 days.

Make the beets and horseradish cream

In a medium bowl, toss the beets with 2 Tbs. of the vinegar; let stand for at least 30 minutes.

In a small bowl, whisk the crème fraîche, horseradish, sugar, and the remaining 2 Tbs. vinegar; season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate.

Serve

Unwrap the salmon and rinse under cold running water to remove the curing mixture. Pat dry with paper towels. Transfer to a cutting board and very thinly slice the salmon (Using a long, thin, sharp knife, slice the salmon as thinly as you can. Starting at the wider end if the filet, hold the knife at a 45-degree angle and try for slices so thin that you can see the knife through the salmon). Slice only as much as you need. Garnish with the dill sprigs and serve with the beets, horseradish cream, crispbreads, and lemon wedges.

Applesauce Trifles

I created these trifles of caramelized oat-rye-spelt clusters, vanilla-infused applesauce, and whipped cream as a riff on a classic Scandinavian dessert known as Veiled Country Lass. Belle de Boskoop apples, native to the Netherlands, are my favorite for making applesauce, but other tart-sweet baking apples like Jonagold or Pink Lady will do. You can use just oats to make the clusters, but the rye and spelt flakes add a lovely nutty note.

• 4-1/2 lb. tart-sweet apples (about 9), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 2/3 cup granulated sugar
• 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped, or 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1 cup rolled oats
• 1 cup rye flakes
• 1 cup spelt flakes
• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) salted butter, 2 oz. melted and 2 oz. cut into 4 pieces
• 1 cup packed dark brown sugar
• 3/4 cup hazelnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped
• 1-1/2 cups heavy cream

Combine the apples, sugar, vanilla seeds and pod, if using, and 1/2 cup water in a heavy-duty 4-quart saucepan. Cover and simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally and adding more water 1/4 cup at a time if the apples become dry, until broken down into a chunky sauce, about 30 minutes. Transfer the applesauce to a medium bowl and add the vanilla extract, if using. Let cool and then refrigerate until chilled, about 1-1/2 hours. Remove and discard the vanilla bean pod, if used.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F. Toss the oats, rye, and spelt with the 2 oz. melted butter on a large rimmed baking sheet. Spread in an even layer and bake, stirring once, until golden, about 15 minutes. Set aside.

Melt the remaining 2 oz. butter with the brown sugar in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar is completely melted and bubbling slightly, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the hazelnuts and toasted grains, and toss until clusters form. Spread the clusters on a large rimmed baking sheet and let cool completely.

In ten 8- to 10-oz. parfait glasses, alternate two 1/2-cup layers each of applesauce and clusters, starting with the applesauce.

In a large chilled bowl with a hand-held electric mixer, whip the cream on medium-high speed to medium-firm peaks, about 2 minutes. Top the trifles with the cream and serve.

Endive, Walnut & Grape Salad

This bright, fresh salad is a wonderful contrast to the other rich dishes in the Nordic Christmas Feast menu. In Scandinavia, chicory (Belgian endive) is called yule salat because we eat it mostly during the Christmas season.

• 6 medium heads Belgian endive (1 lb. total), trimmed and cut lengthwise into 6 wedges each
• 1 cup halved green grapes
• 3/4 cup walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped
• 3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
• 1-1/2 Tbs. Dijon mustard
• 1 Tbs. honey
• 2 Tbs. grapeseed oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Arrange the endive wedges on a large serving platter and scatter the grapes and walnuts over them.

In a small bowl, whisk the lemon juice, mustard, and honey until combined. Slowly whisk in the oil until emulsified, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Drizzle the dressing over the salad and serve.

Spice-Cured Salmon with Beets & Horseradish Cream

Cured salmon (gravad lax) is quintessentially Scandinavian. I have a recipe for every season, but this is our Christmas favorite thanks to the festive warm spices and orange zest. I love the combination of tangy raw beets and spicy horseradish cream with the silky, citrusy salmon. It makes an elegant first course and a deliciously cool counterpoint to hot White Wine & Elderflower Gløgg. To save time, you can substitute cream-style prepared horseradish for the fresh horseradish cream, though the flavor won’t be the same.

For the salmon

• 2 Tbs. black peppercorns
• 2 Tbs. coriander seeds
• 20 whole cloves
• 20 green cardamom pods
• 9 oz. kosher salt (about 1-3/4 cups Diamond Crystal or 1 cup Morton’s)
• 1-1/2 cups granulated sugar
• 2 Tbs. finely grated orange zest (from 2 oranges)
• 1 4-lb. skin-on salmon fillet (preferably wild), belly flap trimmed and pin bones removed

For the beets and horseradish cream

• 3 medium red beets, peeled, halved, and very thinly sliced
• 1/4 cup cider vinegar
• 3/4 cup crème fraîche
• 3/4 cup finely grated fresh horseradish
• 1-1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For serving

• Rye crispbreads, such as Finn Crisp or Wasa
• Fresh dill sprigs
• Lemon wedges

Cure the salmon

With a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, finely grind the peppercorns, coriander, cloves, and cardamom pods. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in the salt, sugar, and orange zest.

Arrange several long pieces of plastic wrap on a large rimmed baking sheet. Put the salmon on the plastic skin side down, cover the flesh evenly with the salt mixture, and wrap tightly. Refrigerate for 4 days.

Make the beets and horseradish cream

In a medium bowl, toss the beets with 2 Tbs. of the vinegar; let stand for at least 30 minutes.

In a small bowl, whisk the crème fraîche, horseradish, sugar, and the remaining 2 Tbs. vinegar; season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate.

Serve

Unwrap the salmon and rinse under cold running water to remove the curing mixture. Pat dry with paper towels. Transfer to a cutting board and very thinly slice the salmon (Using a long, thin, sharp knife, slice the salmon as thinly as you can. Starting at the wider end if the filet, hold the knife at a 45-degree angle and try for slices so thin that you can see the knife through the salmon). Slice only as much as you need. Garnish with the dill sprigs and serve with the beets, horseradish cream, crispbreads, and lemon wedges.

Applesauce Trifles

I created these trifles of caramelized oat-rye-spelt clusters, vanilla-infused applesauce, and whipped cream as a riff on a classic Scandinavian dessert known as Veiled Country Lass. Belle de Boskoop apples, native to the Netherlands, are my favorite for making applesauce, but other tart-sweet baking apples like Jonagold or Pink Lady will do. You can use just oats to make the clusters, but the rye and spelt flakes add a lovely nutty note.

• 4-1/2 lb. tart-sweet apples (about 9), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 2/3 cup granulated sugar
• 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped, or 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1 cup rolled oats
• 1 cup rye flakes
• 1 cup spelt flakes
• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) salted butter, 2 oz. melted and 2 oz. cut into 4 pieces
• 1 cup packed dark brown sugar
• 3/4 cup hazelnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped
• 1-1/2 cups heavy cream

Combine the apples, sugar, vanilla seeds and pod, if using, and 1/2 cup water in a heavy-duty 4-quart saucepan. Cover and simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally and adding more water 1/4 cup at a time if the apples become dry, until broken down into a chunky sauce, about 30 minutes. Transfer the applesauce to a medium bowl and add the vanilla extract, if using. Let cool and then refrigerate until chilled, about 1-1/2 hours. Remove and discard the vanilla bean pod, if used.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F. Toss the oats, rye, and spelt with the 2 oz. melted butter on a large rimmed baking sheet. Spread in an even layer and bake, stirring once, until golden, about 15 minutes. Set aside.

Melt the remaining 2 oz. butter with the brown sugar in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar is completely melted and bubbling slightly, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the hazelnuts and toasted grains, and toss until clusters form. Spread the clusters on a large rimmed baking sheet and let cool completely.

In ten 8- to 10-oz. parfait glasses, alternate two 1/2-cup layers each of applesauce and clusters, starting with the applesauce.

In a large chilled bowl with a hand-held electric mixer, whip the cream on medium-high speed to medium-firm peaks, about 2 minutes. Top the trifles with the cream and serve.

Roast Pork with Crisp Crackling & Red Currant Gravy

Be sure to offer everyone some of the fragrant onion-orange stuffing and crunchy crackling along with their slices of juicy pork (pork is especially popular in Denmark, where we eat it for almost every happy occasion.) It’s the centerpiece of our Christmas table. My “special gravy,” as we call it, gets its deep sweet-and-savory flavor from homemade stock, the roast drippings, creamy Danish blue cheese, and red currant jelly. This dish is equally good cold the next day, on rye bread with a sprinkle of coarse salt and leftover braised cabbage.

For the pork

• 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) salted butter
• 1 medium yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced
• 3 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1 Tbs. fresh thyme
• 6-1/2 lb. skin-on boneless pork loin roast, fat trimmed to 1/4 inch
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 medium orange, halved and cut crosswise 1/8 inch thick

For the gravy

• 2-1/2 cups Red Wine Chicken Stock or lower-salt chicken broth
• 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) salted butter
• 1-1/8 oz. (1/4 cup) all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 2 Tbs. red currant jelly
• 1 Tbs. crumbled Danish blue cheese
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Roast the pork

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F.

Melt the butter in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and tender, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and thyme and cook for 1 minute more. Transfer to a plate; let cool.

Remove the piece of skin and fat from the top of the roast. Using a sharp knife, score the skin crosswise through to the fat at 1/2-inch intervals; set aside. Score the meat in a crosshatch pattern, cutting about 1/2 inch deep. Season generously with salt and pepper, and spread the onion-garlic mixture over the surface. Lay the orange slices on top, replace the skin and fat, and tie the roast with twine crosswise at 1-1/2-inch intervals. Generously season the skin with salt. (See the Test Kitchen post for step-by-step photos of how to prep the roast.)

Transfer to a large rimmed baking sheet and roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the roast reads 145°F, about 1-1/2 hours.

Transfer the roast to a cutting board and let rest for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour.

Make the gravy

Meanwhile, pour off and discard the fat from the baking sheet; set aside. In a 1-quart saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a simmer. Pour 1 cup of the stock onto the baking sheet and stir, scraping up the browned bits. Pour through a medium-mesh sieve back into the saucepan and keep warm over low heat.

(At this point, if the skin is not completely crisp and bubbly, untie it from the roast, put it back on the baking sheet, and bake until it is. Lay it back on top of the roast.)

Melt the butter in a 2-quart saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the flour and stir constantly until caramel color, 3 to 5 minutes. Whisk in the stock and simmer, whisking often, until the flour taste is gone, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the cream, jelly, and blue cheese and simmer, whisking often, until the gravy is smooth and thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serve

Remove and discard the twine (if you haven’t already) and carve the pork as shown below. Include crackling and orange-onion stuffing with each portion and serve with the gravy.