Creamy Tomatillo Sauce

The addition of heavy cream or crème fraîche qualifies enchiladas made with this sauce as enchiladas suizas (Swiss-style enchiladas).

• 1 lb. fresh tomatillos, husks and stems removed, rinsed
• 2 or 3 fresh serrano chiles, cored and seeded, or 1 canned chipotle pepper, seeded
• 4 slices white onion, each 1/4 inch thick
• 3 cloves garlic
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 3 cups chicken broth
• 3/4 cup crème fraîche or heavy cream
• 3/4 tsp. salt; more to taste

Position a rack as close to the broiler as possible and heat the broiler. Arrange the tomatillos, fresh chiles (if using), onion slices, and garlic in a small, shallow baking pan. Broil, turning to ensure even cooking, until the tomatillos are soft and slightly blackened, about 10 minutes. Transfer the broiled ingredients to a blender and add the cilantro (if you’re using a canned chipotle, add it now, too). Blend until smooth.

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the tomatillo mixture and cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add 2 cups of the broth and simmer until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 20 minutes. Taste the sauce. It should be a little tart, but it shouldn’t make your mouth pucker. If it’s too tart, add more broth and simmer until the sauce thickens again. Remove from the heat and whisk in the crème fraîche or heavy cream and the salt. Let cool slightly before making the enchiladas.

Homemade Crema (Mexican Sour Cream)

Crema is the Mexican version of French crème fraîche. Both are slightly soured and thickened cream, milder and less thick than American sour cream, with crema being the thinnest. The recipe for Lime Chicken with Poblano Sour Cream will have a more authentic touch if made with crema. You can buy crema in Mexican markets or even in some supermarkets, but it’s easy to make it yourself, and the result has a smoother flavor than that of the commercially prepared version.
Use crema as you would sour cream, dolloping or drizzling it on soups, tacos, potatoes, or anything else that needs a little tang. Start with pasteurized cream if you can find it—it makes a richer, thicker crema than ultrapasteurized cream does.

• 1 cup heavy cream (pasteurized or ultrapasteurized)
• 1 Tbs. buttermilk (with active cultures)

In a small saucepan, warm the cream over medium-low heat to about 95ºF, just enough to take off the chill. If it goes over 100ºF, let it cool before continuing.

Stir in the buttermilk and transfer to a clean glass jar. Set the lid loosely on top of the jar—don’t tighten—and let sit in a warm spot, such as near the stove or on top of the fridge, until the cream starts to thicken, 18 to 24 hours. Stir, tighten the lid, and refrigerate until the cream is thicker and thoroughly chilled, 12 to 24 hours more. Stir well before using. The crema should have a thick but pourable consistency.

Maple-Tangerine Cranberry Sauce

The tartness of fresh cranberries is tempered by the sweet counterpoint of maple syrup in this twist on a classic.

• 2 cups strained fresh tangerine juice (5 to 6 tangerines)
• 12 oz. fresh or frozen cranberries (3 cups)
• 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
• 1/2 cup pure maple syrup, preferably grade B
• 3-inch cinnamon stick
• 1 tsp. finely grated tangerine zest
• Pinch kosher salt

In a 10-inch skillet combine all the ingredients. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat and then reduce to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has thickened somewhat and looks slightly syrupy, about 30 minutes. Remove the cinnamon stick and let the cranberry sauce cool in the pan—it will thicken more as it cools. Serve at room temperature.

Classic Pico de Gallo

Pico de gallo is a zesty Mexican salsa made with fresh tomatoes, onions, and chiles.

• 4 cups seeded and diced fresh tomatoes (3 large tomatoes)
• 1 cup small-diced white or sweet onion (1 medium onion)
• 1/3 cup fresh lime juice
• 2 to 3 serrano chiles, stemmed and finely chopped
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• Kosher salt

Combine the tomatoes, onion, lime juice, serranos, cilantro, and 2 tsp. salt in a large bowl. Mix well, cover, and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour. Season to taste with more salt if necessary. If not using right away, refrigerate for up to 3 days. Strain before using.

Creamy Tomatillo Sauce

The addition of heavy cream or crème fraîche qualifies enchiladas made with this sauce as enchiladas suizas (Swiss-style enchiladas).

• 1 lb. fresh tomatillos, husks and stems removed, rinsed
• 2 or 3 fresh serrano chiles, cored and seeded, or 1 canned chipotle pepper, seeded
• 4 slices white onion, each 1/4 inch thick
• 3 cloves garlic
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 3 cups chicken broth
• 3/4 cup crème fraîche or heavy cream
• 3/4 tsp. salt; more to taste

Position a rack as close to the broiler as possible and heat the broiler. Arrange the tomatillos, fresh chiles (if using), onion slices, and garlic in a small, shallow baking pan. Broil, turning to ensure even cooking, until the tomatillos are soft and slightly blackened, about 10 minutes. Transfer the broiled ingredients to a blender and add the cilantro (if you’re using a canned chipotle, add it now, too). Blend until smooth.

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the tomatillo mixture and cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add 2 cups of the broth and simmer until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 20 minutes. Taste the sauce. It should be a little tart, but it shouldn’t make your mouth pucker. If it’s too tart, add more broth and simmer until the sauce thickens again. Remove from the heat and whisk in the crème fraîche or heavy cream and the salt. Let cool slightly before making the enchiladas.

Red Chile Sauce

You’ll only need about 2 cups of this sauce to make the enchiladas, but any leftover sauce can be used to coat baked chicken, to flavor rice, or to mix into some mayonnaise for a tasty sandwich spread. The sauce can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to three days or frozen for up to a month.

• 2-1/2 oz. dried ancho chiles (about 4 large, 5 medium, or 6 small)
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 1 small white onion, chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1/4 cup sesame seeds
• 1/2 cup drained canned tomatoes, seeded
• 1 tsp. dried oregano
• 1/4 tsp. ground cumin
• 3 cups mild chicken broth or water
• 1 tsp. cider vinegar
• 2 bay leaves
• 3/4 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste

Heat a dry skillet over medium heat. Add the dried chiles one at a time and cook them for 20 to 30 seconds on each side, pressing down with a spatula, until soft, pliable, and slightly redder in spots. Don’t let the chiles burn; you’ll end up with a bitter sauce. Rinse the chiles, remove the stems, veins, and seeds, and tear each one into two or three pieces. Put them in a small saucepan with enough water to cover and cook at a very gentle simmer until well softened, about 20 min.

Meanwhile, in a saucepan or large skillet, heat 1 Tbs. of the vegetable oil, add the chopped onion, and sauté over medium-high heat until the edges of the onion are deeply browned, about 10 min. Add the garlic; cook for another 1 minute, and set the pan aside.

At the same time, toast the sesame seeds in a dry skillet set over moderately low heat until they’re a deep golden brown. Stir the seeds frequently to keep them from burning and pour them onto a plate to cool as soon as they’re fully toasted.

Drain the chiles (discard the cooking water) and put them in a blender. Add the sautéed onion and garlic, sesame seeds, tomatoes, oregano, cumin, and 1 cup of the broth or water. Blend until completely smooth, about 2 minutes. You should have a medium thick paste; if it’s too thick, thin it with a little broth or water.

Wipe clean and reheat the skillet you used to sauté the onions. Add the remaining 1 Tbs. vegetable oil. When the oil is hot, add the paste from the blender. Cook the paste for 3 min., stirring constantly with a whisk or wooden spoon. Stir in the remaining broth, vinegar, bay leaves, and salt. Bring to a simmer and cook until the sauce begins to thicken, about 20 min. Discard the bay leaves. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt if needed. The sauce should still be a bit thin; it will thicken further when the enchiladas are cooked. Let cool slightly before making the enchiladas.

Quick Tomato Sauce

• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium carrot, finely chopped
• 1 medium celery stalk, finely chopped
• 1/2 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 5 large basil leaves, chopped
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1 28-oz. can plus 1 14-oz. can plum tomatoes with juice, coarsely chopped

In a 3- or 4-qt. saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the carrot, celery, onion, parsley, basil, a generous pinch of salt, and a couple grinds of pepper. Cook until the vegetables are pale gold, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the wine and cook until it evaporates, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes with their juices, stir well, and simmer gently to blend the flavors and reduce the sauce to about 4-1/2 cups, 15 to 20 minutes (adjust the heat as necessary to maintain a gentle simmer). Season to taste with salt and pepper. If you want a smoother texture, pass the sauce through a food mill or purée in a food processor

Orange-Maple Cranberry Sauce

Pure maple syrup makes all the difference here, so avoid artificially flavored syrup. Cooking the cranberries just until they burst prevents the sauce from becoming too thick.

• 1 12-oz. package fresh or frozen cranberries (about 3 cups), picked over and rinsed
• 1 cup pure maple syrup
• 1 medium orange, finely grated to yield 1 tsp. zest, squeezed to yield 1/3 cup juice

Combine the cranberries, maple syrup, and orange juice in a 3-quart saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer, stirring occasionally, just until the cranberries burst, about 5 minutes.

Remove from the heat, stir in the zest, and let cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. The sauce will thicken as it cools.

Lexington Style Barbecue Sauce

• 3 cups cider vinegar
• 3/4 cup tomato ketchup
• 6 Tbs. light brown sugar
• 3 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1-1/2 Tbs. kosher salt
• 2-1/4 tsp. finely ground white pepper
• 2-1/4 tsp. red chile flakes
• 3/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

In a medium bowl, whisk all the ingredients together and let sit for at least 10 minutes. The longer the sauce sits, the hotter it gets, as the vinegar brings out the heat of the chile flakes (so start with the amount of chile flakes called for and then add more to taste). Pour the sauce in a vinegar style bottle so you can pour and store it easily. It will keep almost indefinitely in the refrigerator.

Old Bay Dipping Sauce

The flavors of a classic shrimp boil are combined in one dynamite melted butter dipping sauce. Serve it with grilled shrimp, clams, or crab.

• 8 oz. (1 cup) unsalted butter, cut into 16 pieces
• 1 Tbs. Old Bay Seasoning
• 1 Tbs. grated shallot (about 1 large shallot)

In a small saucepan, bring 3 Tbs. water to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low. One piece at a time, whisk in the butter, waiting until each piece is completely incorporated before adding the next. Once the consistency begins to change from watery to creamy, with a pale yellow hue (after 4 or 5 pieces of butter have been whisked in), emulsification has begun. At this point, you can add 2 or 3 pieces of butter at a time, making sure they are almost fully combined before adding more.

Whisk in the Old Bay and shallot. Turn off the heat but leave the pan on the burner to let the flavors develop. Serve warm.

Kansas City Style Sweet Cola Barbecue Sauce

• 4 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 large onion (9 oz.), chopped
• 4 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1 can (12 oz.) cola
• 1 cup tomato ketchup
• 3 Tbs. tomato paste
• 1/2 cup cider vinegar
• 1/2 cup firmly packed brown sugar
• 1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce
• 2 tsp. ground ancho chile powder or New Mexico chile powder
• 1 tsp. ground white pepper
• 1 tsp. kosher salt

Melt the butter in a heavy 4-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, slightly golden, and soft, about 10 minutes. Whisk in the remaining ingredients and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens, 35 to 45 minutes. Taste the sauce and adjust the salt and pepper.

Let the sauce cool until it’s warm but no longer hot, about 10 minutes. Purée in a blender or with an immersion blender. Let the sauce cool and pour it into a clean glass jar for storing. The sauce can be made ahead and kept for up to 1 week in the refrigerator.

Pea Sauce with Fresh Mint

Fresh or frozen peas and fresh mint turn into a creamy (but cream-free) sauce for simply cooked meats. This sauce is especially good with grilled or roasted lamb chops, or flaky white fish.

• 1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 cup chopped leek (white and some light-green parts, from 1/2 medium leek)
• 1-1/4 cups lower-salt chicken broth
• 2 cups fresh or frozen peas
• 1/2 cup fresh mint leaves
• Kosher salt

Heat 1 Tbs. of the oil in a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the leek and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a boil. Stir in the peas, return to a boil, reduce the heat to medium low, and simmer until the peas are just tender, 2 to 3 minutes.


Pour the pea mixture into a blender. Add the mint and 3/4 tsp. salt and purée until smooth.


Drizzle each portion of sauce with some of the remaining olive oil upon serving. (The sauce may be made and refrigerated up to 1 day ahead.)

Asian-Style Barbecue Sauce

One of the many delicious ways to dress up grilled chicken wings.

• 1/4 cup tomato ketchup
• 2 Tbs. soy sauce
• 1 Tbs. light brown sugar
• 1 Tbs. rice vinegar
• 4 scallions (both white and green parts), trimmed and thinly sliced
• Large pinch dried red chile flakes

In a small bowl, whisk the ketchup, soy sauce, brown sugar, rice vinegar, half of the scallions, and the chile flakes. Reserve the remaining scallions to sprinkle on the wings after tossing.

Roasted Bell Pepper Coulis

For variety, try adding a bit of fresh ginger, chopped herbs, or garlic. You can also add a splash of balsamic vinegar, lemon juice, or other acid to heighten the flavor, or a little cream to mellow it. If you strain the coulis, be sure to use a medium- or wide-mesh sieve, as a fine one will cause the coulis to separate. Purée red and yellow peppers separately to make a two-toned accent for seared scallops, crab cakes, or other seafood.

• 2 red, yellow, or orange bell peppers, roasted, peeled, seeded, and roughly chopped; juices reserved
• 1/2 cup homemade or low-salt chicken or vegetable broth; you may not need it all
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a blender, purée the chopped roasted peppers thoroughly. This will take a few minutes and you’ll have to pulse the blender several times to purée all the pieces. (Put a towel over the blender and clamp your hand over the lid to prevent leaks.) When the peppers are mostly puréed, begin adding the broth or reserved pepper juices (for a slightly more intense flavor), 1 to 2 Tbs. at a time, to thin the purée. (For a thicker purée, don’t add any liquid.) Strain through a wide-mesh sieve, if you like. When you’re satisfied with the consistency, season with salt and pepper to taste.

Apple-Bacon Barbecue Sauce & Mop

The smoky-sweet flavor of this mop and sauce is a classic complement for pork ribs. For full instructions for barbecuing the ribs with the sauce, see the Apple-Bacon Barbecued Ribs recipe.

• 1/4 lb. (4 to 5 slices) bacon
• 3/4 cup apple juice
• 5 Tbs. apple cider vinegar
• 1/2 cup ketchup
• 2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• 1/2 tsp. ancho chile powder
• 1/2 tsp. sweet paprika, preferably Hungarian
• 1/4 tsp. ground cumin
• 1/4 tsp. celery seed
• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Cook the bacon in a medium skillet over medium-low heat until browned and crisp, 10 to 15 minutes, turning occasionally. Drain the bacon on paper towels and eat it whenever you like. Pour about one-half the bacon fat into a small saucepan and reserve the remaining fat in the skillet for the barbecue sauce. To the saucepan, add 1/2 cup of the apple juice and 2 Tbs. of the cider vinegar. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and then remove from the heat (this is the mop).

Add the remaining 1/4 cup apple juice, 3 Tbs. cider vinegar, and the ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, chile powder, paprika, cumin, celery seed, and pepper to the bacon fat in the skillet. Cook over medium-low heat, whisking until smooth. As soon as the barbecue sauce simmers, remove the skillet from the heat.

Tomato Sauce alla Siciliana

Suggested pasta: 1 lb.dried cavatappi or other short, sturdy pasta.
Beyond pasta: Serve over grilled lamb chops or sausages. Mix with grilled or roasted peppers, summer squash, or onions to make a ratatouille-style side dish.
Cheese option: Freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano.

• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/2 cup chopped yellow onion
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1/2 lb. baby eggplant (1 to 2 eggplant), cut into 1/2-inch cubes (to yield about 2 cups)
• 1-1/2 lb. cherry tomatoes, rinsed and halved
• 1 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1 Tbs. aged balsamic vinegar
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh mint leaves

In a 10- or 11-inch sauté pan, heat the oil, onion, and garlic over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the onion is softened but not browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the cubed eggplant and cook, stirring frequently, until the eggplant softens and begins to brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the tomatoes, salt, and pepper to taste. Simmer, stirring occasionally and adjusting the heat to maintain a lively but not too vigorous simmer, until the tomatoes have been reduced to a thick, pulpy sauce, 15 to 20 minutes. Sprinkle the balsamic vinegar over the sauce, stir, and simmer for another 5 minutes. Stir in the mint and more salt and pepper to taste.

To serve with pasta

While the sauce is cooking, bring a large pot of abundantly salted water to a vigorous boil and cook the pasta until al dente. Drain it well. Taste the sauce and adjust the seasonings if needed. Toss the pasta with three-quarters of the sauce and divide among individual serving bowls. Spoon a little of the remaining sauce over each serving and sprinkle on the cheese, if you like.

Chinese-Style Spareribs

Too cold to grill outside? Slow roasting in the oven yields a rib that's just as tender and succulent. The sweet-and-hot spice rub gives them the flavor of a Chinatown banquet.

For the Chinese spice rub:

• 2 Tbs. ground coriander
• 2 Tbs. hot chili powder
• 2 Tbs. dark brown sugar
• 1 Tbs. five-spice powder
• 1 Tbs. ground fennel seeds
• 1 Tbs. kosher salt
• 1 tbs. dried red chile flakes

• 2 full (13-rib) racks of St. Louis-cut pork spareribs (about 3 lb. each)
• Kosher salt for sprinkling
• Sliced scallions, for garnish (optional)
• Asian Dipping Sauce

Make the spice rub:

In a small bowl, stir together all the ingredients.

Cook the ribs:

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 300°F. Sprinkle and press 1/4 cup of the rub on both sides of each rib rack. Put the racks, meaty side up, on a broiling pan or a wire roasting rack set over a baking sheet. Lightly season the ribs with salt and put them in the oven. After the first hour, rotate the pan every 30 min. (Note: If you use two baking sheets, switch their position in the oven, too). The ribs will sizzle gently as they cook, and they’ll become tender after about 2 hours in the oven.

To test for doneness, pick up the center of the ribs with tongs; the ends of the ribs should flop downward (this means the fat and cartilage have broken down), and a skewer inserted between the ribs should meet little resistance. If the meat between the ribs is still tough, keep cooking, checking every 15 minutes and rotating the pan.

Remove the rib racks from the oven, put them on a cutting board meaty side down (so they’re easier to slice), and slice them into individual ribs. Arrange the ribs on a platter (or stack them for a festive presentation), garnish with scallions, if you like, and serve with the dipping sauce on the side.

Chinese-Style Spareribs

Too cold to grill outside? Slow roasting in the oven yields a rib that's just as tender and succulent. The sweet-and-hot spice rub gives them the flavor of a Chinatown banquet.

For the Chinese spice rub:

• 2 Tbs. ground coriander
• 2 Tbs. hot chili powder
• 2 Tbs. dark brown sugar
• 1 Tbs. five-spice powder
• 1 Tbs. ground fennel seeds
• 1 Tbs. kosher salt
• 1 tbs. dried red chile flakes

• 2 full (13-rib) racks of St. Louis-cut pork spareribs (about 3 lb. each)
• Kosher salt for sprinkling
• Sliced scallions, for garnish (optional)
• Asian Dipping Sauce

Make the spice rub:

In a small bowl, stir together all the ingredients.

Cook the ribs:

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 300°F. Sprinkle and press 1/4 cup of the rub on both sides of each rib rack. Put the racks, meaty side up, on a broiling pan or a wire roasting rack set over a baking sheet. Lightly season the ribs with salt and put them in the oven. After the first hour, rotate the pan every 30 min. (Note: If you use two baking sheets, switch their position in the oven, too). The ribs will sizzle gently as they cook, and they’ll become tender after about 2 hours in the oven.

To test for doneness, pick up the center of the ribs with tongs; the ends of the ribs should flop downward (this means the fat and cartilage have broken down), and a skewer inserted between the ribs should meet little resistance. If the meat between the ribs is still tough, keep cooking, checking every 15 minutes and rotating the pan.

Remove the rib racks from the oven, put them on a cutting board meaty side down (so they’re easier to slice), and slice them into individual ribs. Arrange the ribs on a platter (or stack them for a festive presentation), garnish with scallions, if you like, and serve with the dipping sauce on the side.

Grilled Corn & Tomato Salsa

The smoky heat of the chipotle chile makes this salsa a bold accompaniment to grilled beef, pork, or chicken. And of course, this salsa is a natrual next to a plate of warm, salty, Homemade Tortilla Chips.

• 2 ears corn, husked
• Olive oil for brushing
• 5 ripe plum tomatoes
• 1/4 cup very finely diced red onion 
• 1 tsp. finely chopped garlic
• 1 canned chipotle chile, finely chopped 
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh oregano or 2 tsp. dried
• 2 Tbs. fresh lime juice
• 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/2 tsp. salt; more to taste

Heat the grill. Brush the corn with olive oil and grill over medium-hot coals until tender and slightly blackened, about 10 minutes. Scrape the kernels from the cob and reserve. Grill the tomatoes over medium-hot coals until the skins are blistered and charred, about 8 minutes. Slice the tomatoes lengthwise and dice.

In a serving bowl, combine the corn, tomatoes, onion, garlic, chipotle, oregano, lime juice, and extra-virgin olive oil. Season with salt. Let stand for 20 minutes before serving.

Raw Fresh Tomato Sauce

In this quick sauce, hot olive oil and salt are added to diced fresh tomatoes and herbs. Be sure to do this just before tossing with cooked pasta, since the scalding oil releases the flavor of the herbs, and the salt can draw too much liquid from the tomatoes if added too soon. A raw sauce is best paired with spaghetti or spaghettini; thicker, heavier pasta shapes are not a good match.  

• 3 lb. ripe tomatoes, cored
• 2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh basil
• 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh oregano
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Fine sea salt

Cut a 1/4-inch slice from the tops of the tomatoes. Peel the tomatoes with a vegetable peeler, using a zig-zag motion, halve them crosswise, and remove and discard the seeds. Cut the tomatoes into 1/4-inch dice and transfer to a large serving bowl. Add the basil and oregano.

Just before serving, heat the olive oil over medium heat in a 1-quart saucepan until shimmering hot (but not smoking); pour over the tomato mixture, add 2 tsp. salt, and mix well. Toss with cooked pasta and serve.