Red Chile Sauce

You’ll only need about 2 cups of this sauce to make the enchiladas, but any leftover sauce can be used to coat baked chicken, to flavor rice, or to mix into some mayonnaise for a tasty sandwich spread. The sauce can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to three days or frozen for up to a month.

• 2-1/2 oz. dried ancho chiles (about 4 large, 5 medium, or 6 small)
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 1 small white onion, chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1/4 cup sesame seeds
• 1/2 cup drained canned tomatoes, seeded
• 1 tsp. dried oregano
• 1/4 tsp. ground cumin
• 3 cups mild chicken broth or water
• 1 tsp. cider vinegar
• 2 bay leaves
• 3/4 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste

Heat a dry skillet over medium heat. Add the dried chiles one at a time and cook them for 20 to 30 seconds on each side, pressing down with a spatula, until soft, pliable, and slightly redder in spots. Don’t let the chiles burn; you’ll end up with a bitter sauce. Rinse the chiles, remove the stems, veins, and seeds, and tear each one into two or three pieces. Put them in a small saucepan with enough water to cover and cook at a very gentle simmer until well softened, about 20 min.

Meanwhile, in a saucepan or large skillet, heat 1 Tbs. of the vegetable oil, add the chopped onion, and sauté over medium-high heat until the edges of the onion are deeply browned, about 10 min. Add the garlic; cook for another 1 minute, and set the pan aside.

At the same time, toast the sesame seeds in a dry skillet set over moderately low heat until they’re a deep golden brown. Stir the seeds frequently to keep them from burning and pour them onto a plate to cool as soon as they’re fully toasted.

Drain the chiles (discard the cooking water) and put them in a blender. Add the sautéed onion and garlic, sesame seeds, tomatoes, oregano, cumin, and 1 cup of the broth or water. Blend until completely smooth, about 2 minutes. You should have a medium thick paste; if it’s too thick, thin it with a little broth or water.

Wipe clean and reheat the skillet you used to sauté the onions. Add the remaining 1 Tbs. vegetable oil. When the oil is hot, add the paste from the blender. Cook the paste for 3 min., stirring constantly with a whisk or wooden spoon. Stir in the remaining broth, vinegar, bay leaves, and salt. Bring to a simmer and cook until the sauce begins to thicken, about 20 min. Discard the bay leaves. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt if needed. The sauce should still be a bit thin; it will thicken further when the enchiladas are cooked. Let cool slightly before making the enchiladas.

Mexican Turkey Drumstick Mole

In this classic Mexican stew, turkey legs are poached until falling-apart tender, then the meat is teased off the bones and simmered in the rich, spicy sauce flavored with bittersweet chocolate, ground almonds, and three varieties of dried Mexican chiles.

For the poached drumsticks

• 6 cups lower-salt chicken broth; more as needed
• 2 medium yellow onions, peeled and each studded with 4 whole cloves
• 6 medium unpeeled cloves garlic
• 6 whole allspice berries
• 4 fresh or dried bay leaves
• 2 tsp. cumin seeds
• 2 tsp. black peppercorns
• 2 tsp. coriander seeds
• 2 tsp. dried oregano
• 1 tsp. fennel or aniseed
• One 4-inch cinnamon stick
• 4 large turkey drumsticks (about 3 lb. total)

For the mole sauce

• 3 ancho chiles
• 3 mulato chiles
• 3 guajillo chiles
• 1/3 cup raisins
• 3/4 cup whole toasted almonds
• 2 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped (about 1/2 cup)
• 3 medium ripe tomatoes, peeled and seeded (about 1 cup), or 1 cup canned seeded tomatoes, preferably Muir Glen
• 2 corn tortillas, cut into 6-inch strips
• 1 cup chopped yellow onion
• 2 medium cloves garlic
• 1 tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican
• 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
• 1/2 tsp. ground fennel or aniseed
• 1/8 tsp. ground allspice
• 1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
• Pinch of ground cloves
• 3 Tbs. olive oil or vegetable oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds

Poach the drumsticks

In a large (8-quart) Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, combine the broth, onions, garlic, and spices. Add the drumsticks and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover the pot, and cook until the meat is tender, about 1-1/2 hours. During cooking, add broth as needed to keep the drumsticks submerged, and turn them over from time to time. Transfer the drumsticks to a rimmed baking sheet and let cool. Strain the broth and save. Discard any solids.


When the legs are cool enough to handle, remove the skin and discard. Pull the meat from the bones and remove any sinews. Leave the meat in the largest chunks possible and set aside in a large bowl.

Make the mole sauce

Tear the chiles into large pieces, discarding the stems and seeds.


In a large (12-inch), dry, heavy-duty skillet over medium-high heat, toast the chiles, turning them frequently, for 10 to 15 seconds. Transfer the chiles to a bowl, add the raisins, cover with 3 cups boiling water, and soak for at least 30 minutes or until soft.

Drain the chiles and raisins. Set aside 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid and combine the remaining liquid with the turkey broth.


Put the almonds and chocolate in a food processor and pulse several times to finely grind them. Add the chiles and raisins, the reserved 1/2 cup of chile liquid, and the tomatoes, tortillas, onion, garlic, oregano, cumin, fennel, allspice, cinnamon, and cloves. Process until smooth.


In a large (8-quart) Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the chile mixture and cook, stirring frequently, until it darkens and becomes quite thick, about 8 minutes. Add 4 cups of the turkey broth and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cover, reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook until the sauce is thick but still pourable, about 40 minutes. Add more turkey broth if it becomes too thick.

Stir in the turkey meat and cook for 10 minutes over low heat so the turkey can absorb the flavors of the mole sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the turkey and sauce into a shallow serving bowl and sprinkle with the toasted sesame seeds.

Beef Short Ribs in Ancho-Molasses Sauce

The key to this recipe is to start the ribs in a pan; turning them in the melted tallow fat will crisp them up. It’s like frying and smoking them at the same time. Let them get well-done before you add the hot braising liquid.

For the Spice Rub

• 4 Tbs. sea salt
• 3 Tbs. pure powdered chile of your choice
• 2 Tbs. dried granulated garlic
• 2 Tbs. coarsely ground black pepper
• 1 Tbs. ground thyme
• 1 tsp. ground coriander
• 1 tsp. ground cumin

For the Short Ribs

• 6 beef short ribs (square cut, around 3 lbs.)
• 2 ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
• 12-oz. can root beer (sweetened with cane sugar)
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1/2 onion, chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1 cup molasses

For Serving

• 12 warm flour tortillas
• Sliced onions
• Cilantro leaves
• 2 cups refried beans

Make the spice rub

Combine all of the ingredients in a small bowl, blending well to evenly distribute the spices. Be sure to break up any chunks that appear. Store the blend in a spice jar.

Make the short ribs

Light about 25 charcoal briquettes in a chimney and prepare the grill with the coals on one side only. Rub the ribs with 2 Tbs. of the spice rub and place them in a pan. Put the pan on the grill over medium-hot coals and turn the ribs when they start to sizzle. Continue cooking in the dish for 1 hour, turning to caramelize on all sides. Move the pan to the cool side of the grill if the meat begins to burn or stick.

Tear the ancho chiles into pieces and combine with the root beer in a saucepan over medium heat. Simmer until the chiles soften, about 15 minutes. Heat the oil in a skillet and add the onion. Cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another minute. Add the root beer and chile mixture and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer.

Add more wood and charcoal to the grill if needed. When the ribs are well browned, pour the molasses over each rib, turning to coat. Then add the hot root beer–chile mixture to the pan. Place the pan over hot coals so it simmers.

Cover the grill and allow the ribs to smoke and simmer for another hour, turning often. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and allow to steam for 30 minutes. Remove the pan from the grill and put the ribs in a serving dish. Stir the braising liquid and molasses in the pan together and pour over the ribs. Serve immediately with the flour tortillas, sliced onion, cilantro, and refried beans.

Mexican Turkey Drumstick Mole

In this classic Mexican stew, turkey legs are poached until falling-apart tender, then the meat is teased off the bones and simmered in the rich, spicy sauce flavored with bittersweet chocolate, ground almonds, and three varieties of dried Mexican chiles.

For the poached drumsticks

• 6 cups lower-salt chicken broth; more as needed
• 2 medium yellow onions, peeled and each studded with 4 whole cloves
• 6 medium unpeeled cloves garlic
• 6 whole allspice berries
• 4 fresh or dried bay leaves
• 2 tsp. cumin seeds
• 2 tsp. black peppercorns
• 2 tsp. coriander seeds
• 2 tsp. dried oregano
• 1 tsp. fennel or aniseed
• One 4-inch cinnamon stick
• 4 large turkey drumsticks (about 3 lb. total)

For the mole sauce

• 3 ancho chiles
• 3 mulato chiles
• 3 guajillo chiles
• 1/3 cup raisins
• 3/4 cup whole toasted almonds
• 2 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped (about 1/2 cup)
• 3 medium ripe tomatoes, peeled and seeded (about 1 cup), or 1 cup canned seeded tomatoes, preferably Muir Glen
• 2 corn tortillas, cut into 6-inch strips
• 1 cup chopped yellow onion
• 2 medium cloves garlic
• 1 tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican
• 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
• 1/2 tsp. ground fennel or aniseed
• 1/8 tsp. ground allspice
• 1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
• Pinch of ground cloves
• 3 Tbs. olive oil or vegetable oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds

Poach the drumsticks

In a large (8-quart) Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, combine the broth, onions, garlic, and spices. Add the drumsticks and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover the pot, and cook until the meat is tender, about 1-1/2 hours. During cooking, add broth as needed to keep the drumsticks submerged, and turn them over from time to time. Transfer the drumsticks to a rimmed baking sheet and let cool. Strain the broth and save. Discard any solids.


When the legs are cool enough to handle, remove the skin and discard. Pull the meat from the bones and remove any sinews. Leave the meat in the largest chunks possible and set aside in a large bowl.

Make the mole sauce

Tear the chiles into large pieces, discarding the stems and seeds.


In a large (12-inch), dry, heavy-duty skillet over medium-high heat, toast the chiles, turning them frequently, for 10 to 15 seconds. Transfer the chiles to a bowl, add the raisins, cover with 3 cups boiling water, and soak for at least 30 minutes or until soft.

Drain the chiles and raisins. Set aside 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid and combine the remaining liquid with the turkey broth.


Put the almonds and chocolate in a food processor and pulse several times to finely grind them. Add the chiles and raisins, the reserved 1/2 cup of chile liquid, and the tomatoes, tortillas, onion, garlic, oregano, cumin, fennel, allspice, cinnamon, and cloves. Process until smooth.


In a large (8-quart) Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the chile mixture and cook, stirring frequently, until it darkens and becomes quite thick, about 8 minutes. Add 4 cups of the turkey broth and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cover, reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook until the sauce is thick but still pourable, about 40 minutes. Add more turkey broth if it becomes too thick.

Stir in the turkey meat and cook for 10 minutes over low heat so the turkey can absorb the flavors of the mole sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the turkey and sauce into a shallow serving bowl and sprinkle with the toasted sesame seeds.