Beef Stroganoff with Cremini & Porcini Mushrooms

Beef tenderloin is traditional and works great for Stroganoff—I especially like it because it's so tender and cooks quickly. But it isn't necessarily the most flavorful cut. So, I  bump up the flavors in the dish by using earthy, intense porcini mushrooms to infuse the beef broth and finishing the sauce with crème fraîche, which I find to be lighter than the usual sour cream, with a nuanced nuttiness.

• 1-1/2 cups beef broth (low-salt, if canned) or veal stock
• 1/2 oz. dried porcini mushrooms (about 1/2 cup)
• 3 Tbs. vegetable oil (not olive oil)
• 1/4 cup unsalted butter
• 8 to 10 oz. fresh cremini mushrooms, stems trimmed, caps wiped clean and thickly sliced
• 1 lb. beef tenderloin, cut into strips about 2 inches long and 1/2 inch wide
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 1 medium onion, thinly sliced
• 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
• 1/2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• 5 Tbs. crème fraîche

For serving:

• Cooked egg noodles or fresh egg fettuccine
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Tip:

If you want to double the recipe, use two skillets rather than trying to crowd the pan.

In a small saucepan, combine the broth and dried porcini. Bring to a boil, remove from the heat, cover, and let steep for 30 min. With a slotted spoon, lift the porcini out of the broth; chop coarsely and set aside. Strain the broth through a cheesecloth-lined sieve and set aside.

Strain the porcini-enriched beef broth to remove grit from the mushrooms. The porcini and their soaking liquid give the Stroganoff great depth of flavor.

Heat 1 Tbs. each of the oil and butter in a large sauté pan or skillet (a 12-inch skillet is perfect) over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the cremini mushrooms and sauté, stirring often with a wooden spoon, until the mushrooms are softened and well browned, 5 to 6 min. Take the pan off the heat and transfer the cremini to a bowl.

Season the beef strips generously with salt and pepper and dredge them in the flour. Return the pan to medium-high heat and add the remaining 2 Tbs. of oil. When the oil is very hot, swirl to coat the pan and then add the beef, spreading it in a single layer and stirring with the wooden spoon so that it browns quickly on all sides, 1 to 2 min. Be sure not to overcrowd the pan; work in batches if necessary. Sauté the beef just long enough so that it browns slightly on all sides; don't overcook it. Transfer the beef to the bowl with the cremini.

Dredge the beef in flour to help it brown quickly in the pan. Photo: Amy Albert

Brown the meat quickly in a single layer. Don't crowd the pan; work in batches if you don't have a 12-inch skillet.

Still over medium-high heat, melt the remaining 3 Tbs. butter in the pan and add the onion. Sauté, scraping up the browned bits in the bottom of the pan with the wooden spoon, until the onion just begins to brown, 4 to 5 min. Pour in the reserved porcini soaking broth. Stir in the mustard and Worcestershire sauce and then add the porcini, cremini, and beef, along with any accumulated juices. Bring to a simmer while stirring. Cook just long enough so that the sauce thickens slightly, 1 to 2 min. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the crème fraîche, cooking just until heated through. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Serve over the egg noodles or fettuccine, sprinkled with the parsley.

Stir in the crème fraîche and cook just until heated through.

Short Rib & Porcini Mushroom Ragù

In Italy, this dish is known as Ragù di Manzo e Funghi Porcini. The dried porcini mushrooms lend a lusty earthiness, and pancetta tossed in with the aromatics adds a little flavor punch.

• 1 oz. dried porcini mushrooms (about 1 cup)
• 2 28-oz. cans imported Italian plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 lb. bone-in beef short ribs, trimmed of excess fat
• 1 lb. boneless beef chuck, trimmed of excess fat
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 1 small carrot, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 1 small celery stalk, finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
• 1 medium clove garlic, finely chopped
• 2 oz. thickly sliced pancetta, finely chopped
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 cup dry white wine

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 300°F.

Soak the mushrooms in 2 cups of warm water for 20 to 30 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the mushrooms to a cutting board and chop them finely. Line a strainer with a coffee filter or two layers of paper towels and strain the mushroom-soaking water into a bowl to get rid of any grit. Set aside both mushrooms and liquid.

Put one can of tomatoes and their juices in a food processor and process until puréed. Using a spatula or the back of a ladle, press the purée through a medium-mesh sieve set over a bowl to remove the seeds. Purée and strain the other can of tomatoes.

Heat 1/4 cup of the oil in a 7- to 8-qt. Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season the ribs and beef chuck with kosher salt and pepper and add them to the hot oil. Cook, turning as necessary, until the meat is golden brown on all sides, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a large plate, discard the fat, and clean the pan with paper towels.

Heat the remaining 1/4 cup oil in the pan over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery, garlic, and pancetta and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are lightly golden and soft, 7 to 8 minutes. Add the mushrooms and parsley and stir for about 1 minute to blend the ingredients.

Return the meat to the pan and stir to coat with the savory base. Raise the heat to high and add the wine. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the wine is reduced approximately by half, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and 1/2 cup of the reserved mushroom-soaking water. Season with 1/2 tsp. salt and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Stir until the liquid begins to simmer.

Turn off the heat, cover the pan tightly with a lid or heavy-duty aluminum foil, and put it in the oven. Cook, turning the meat every half hour, until the meat is fork tender and the ribs begin to fall off the bone, about 2-1/2 hours.

Remove the pan from the oven and transfer the meat (including any that has fallen off the bone) to a cutting board. Use a ladle to skim the fat off the surface of the sauce. When the meat is cool enough to handle, pull the meat off the ribs. Discard the bones and any fat and connective tissue. Finely chop all the meat. Stir the meat back into the sauce and simmer on the stovetop over medium heat, stirring occasionally, to allow the flavors to meld and the sauce to thicken slightly, about 10 minutes. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.

The last step--toss it with pasta:

Once you've made your rich ragù, all that's left is to combine it with pasta. To serve four to six people, you'll need 4 cups ragu, 1 Tbs. unsalted butter, 1 lb. dried or fresh pasta (cooked and drained), and 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano.

Heat the ragù (either in the Dutch oven you used to cook it or in a 12-inch skillet, if reheating) over medium-high heat. Add the butter and then pour in the pasta and Parmigiano or pecorino. Toss over medium-high heat until the pasta and sauce are well combined. Serve immediately.

Risotto-Style Pasta with Peas & Mushrooms

• 3/4 oz. dried porcini or dried shiitake mushrooms
• 2-1/2 to 3 cups homemade or low-salt chicken broth
• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 small red onion, finely diced
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 lb. dried elbow macaroni
• 1 cup frozen peas
• 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• Grated zest of 1 lemon
• 12 fresh basil leaves, torn into large pieces

Soak the dried mushrooms in 1 cup boiling water until they soften, about 10 minutes. Heat the chicken broth in a medium saucepan over low heat. Transfer the mushrooms to a cutting board and chop very coarsely. Slowly pour off the mushroom soaking liquid into the chicken broth, leaving any sediment behind.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat for 30 seconds. Add the onion; season generously with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until the onion is soft and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the pasta and cook, stirring, until it browns in places and is coated evenly with the oil, about 1 minute. Add the mushrooms and 1 cup of the broth; stir well. When the broth reaches a boil, reduce the heat so that it simmers gently. When the broth is almost completely absorbed, continue to add broth in 1/2-cup increments, stirring until it’s almost completely absorbed before adding more. After the third addition is absorbed, toss in the peas and continue adding broth and stirring until the pasta is just tender, about 14 minutes total (you may not need to use all of the broth). Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the Parmigiano, butter, half of the lemon zest, and half of the basil. Taste and add more lemon zest, salt, or pepper if you like. Serve immediately with the remaining basil sprinkled on top.  

Short Rib and Dried Porcini Lasagne

This company-worthy lasagne features beef short ribs that are slow-cooked in a hearty tomato sauce until meltingly tender. Béchamel sauce adds creaminess, and porcini mushrooms contribute an earthy note.

• 3/4 oz. (1 cup) dried porcini mushrooms 
• 2 lb. beef short ribs 
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2-1/2Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil  
• 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped 
• 1 small carrot, finely chopped 
• 1 small celery stalk, finely chopped 
• 1 Tbs. tomato paste 
• 1 bay leaf, preferably fresh
• 1/2 cup dry red wine  
• 1-1/2 cups canned crushed tomatoes 
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter 
• 3 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 2 cups whole milk  
• 3/4 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 1-1/2 oz.); more for serving 
• 1 recipe Fresh Pasta for Lasagne 

Soak the mushrooms

 In a small bowl, soak the porcini in 1-1/2 cups warm water until softened, about 10 minutes. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the soaking liquid. Coarsely chop the mushrooms and set aside in a bowl.

Braise the ribs

Season the short ribs all over with 1 tsp. salt and 1/4 tsp. pepper. In a 7- to 8-quart Dutch oven, heat 1-1/2 Tbs. of the oil over medium high heat until shimmering. Add the short ribs, in batches if necessary, and brown all over, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate. Pour off and discard all but a thin layer of fat.

Reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil to the pan. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and a pinch of salt and cook until the vegetables are tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and bay leaf and cook, stirring, until the tomato paste darkens, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the red wine and simmer, stirring and scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon, until almost evaporated, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the reserved mushroom liquid and the tomatoes and bring to a simmer. Add the short ribs and any accumulated juices and the porcini; cover, reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook, turning the ribs every 40 minutes, until the meat is fall-off-the-bone tender, 2-1/2 to 3 hours. 

Put the ribs on a plate to cool. Pour the sauce into a heatproof bowl and discard the bay leaf. When the fat rises to the surface, skim it off and discard. Season to taste with salt and pepper. When the meat is cool enough to handle, remove and discard the bones and any fat or cartilage from the meat. Shred the meat and set aside in a medium bowl. 

Make a béchamel sauce

Melt the butter in a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the flour with a wooden spoon and cook until golden, about 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in the milk and cook at a gentle simmer, stirring often, until the mixture thickens, about 10 minutes. Season with 1 tsp. salt. Mix the béchamel sauce into the short rib sauce.

Assemble and bake the lasagne

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. 

Spread 3/4 cup of the sauce on the bottom of a 9x13x3-inch baking dish. Cover the sauce with a slightly overlapping layer of cooked noodles, cutting them as needed to fill any gaps. Spread 3/4 cup of the sauce evenly over the noodles. Add 1/2 cup of the shredded meat in an even layer and then sprinkle with 2 Tbs. of the Parmigiano. Add another layer of noodles and repeat the layers as instructed above, to make a total of 4 layers of sauce and meat and 5 layers of pasta—at this point, you should have used all the meat but still have about 3/4 cup of sauce and 1/4 cup of Parmigiano left. Spread the remaining sauce evenly over the top and then sprinkle with the remaining Parmigiano.

Cover the baking dish with foil and bake for 40 minutes. Remove the foil and bake until the top is browned and bubbly, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool for at least 10 minutes before serving. Serve sprinkled with additional Parmigiano, if you like. 

Slow-Cooker Bolognese Sauce with Pancetta, Porcini, and Rosemary

This rich, complex sauce smells and tastes like fall—with its earthy mushrooms, smoky pancetta, and sweet woodsy rosemary. Serve it over pasta, ideally pappardelle, and freeze any extra (you'll have a lot of sauce). This recipe uses a smaller quantity of milk than is traditional, since milk can curdle in the slow cooker. Be sure to use high-quality pancetta and feel free to vary the kind of mushroom.

• 1⁄4 cup dried porcini or other wild mushrooms
• 3 slices white bread
• 1 cup whole milk
• Scant 3 lb. ground beef chuck or meatloaf mix, at room temperature
• 2 tsp. kosher salt
• 15 grinds black pepper
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1⁄2 lb. pancetta, coarsely chopped
• 1 cup finely chopped porcini mushrooms (about 5 large)
• 2 cups finely chopped carrots (about 4 medium)
• 1 cup finely chopped celery (about 4 stalks)
• 1 cup finely chopped red onions (about 1 small)
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
• 1 tsp. ground nutmeg
• 1⁄2 cup tomato paste (about 5 oz.)
• 1⁄4 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 cup dry red wine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon
• 3⁄4 cup canned diced tomatoes, with juice
• 1⁄2 cup low-sodium chicken stock
• 2 Tbs. minced fresh rosemary leaves
• 1 lb. pappardelle pasta, cooked according to the package directions

Tip:

To adapt a slow-cooker recipe to a conventional oven, follow these guidelines: add more liquid, to accommodate for greater evaporation; bring the dish to a boil over high heat in a Dutch oven, then cover the pot and put in a 350°F oven. Plan on the dish taking roughly half the time to cook in the oven as it would in the slow cooker.

Add the dried mushrooms to a small bowl and cover with very hot water; let sit for 15 minutes, then drain and finely chop. In a large bowl, mash the bread and milk together until a smooth paste forms. Gently knead in the beef, salt, and pepper, and mix well.

Add the butter to a medium-size, heavy saucepan and heat over medium-high heat. When melted, add the pancetta and sauté until browned, about 8 minutes. Pour off all but about 2 Tbs. of the fat. Add the meat mixture, and cook until browned, about 10 minutes. Add the fresh porcini and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in the dried mushrooms, carrots, celery, onions, garlic, and nutmeg. Sauté until the vegetables are slightly softened and aromatic, about 3 minutes. Add the tomato paste and flour, and cook until the flour is no longer visible, no more than 1 minute. With the pan off the heat, carefully add the wine. Then return the pan to high heat and stir well, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to release any food bits. Cook for 2 minutes, then stir in the tomatoes and stock, and cook for another minute. Pour into the slow cooker.

Cover the slow cooker and cook on low until the meat has cooked through and the sauce is aromatic and very flavorful, about 6 hours. Spoon the fat off the surface, stir in the rosemary, break up the meat more with a fork, and serve with pasta.

Mushroom Ragoût over Creamy Polenta

A mix of mushrooms contributes deep, earthy flavor to this vegetarian main dish. Instant polenta, with a flavor boost from mascarpone and Parmigiano-Reggiano, helps keep the cooking time short.

• 1/2 oz. dried porcini (about 1/2 cup)
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 3 medium shallots, thinly sliced (about 1 cup)
• Kosher salt
• 2 lb. mixed fresh mushrooms (shiitake, oyster, cremini, hen of the woods), trimmed and coarsely chopped (10 to 12 cups)
• 1/2 cup dry vermouth
• 2 Tbs. heavy cream
• 1/4 cup chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as tarragon, parsley, thyme, chives, and sage
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup instant polenta
• 1/4 cup mascarpone
• 1/2 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/2 cup using a rasp grater)

In a small bowl, soak the porcini in 1-1/2 cups warm water until softened, about 10 minutes. Lift the mushrooms out and reserve 1 cup of the liquid. Coarsely chop the mushrooms.

Meanwhile, in an 8-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat 1 Tbs. of the butter with the olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallots and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 4 minutes. Add the fresh mushrooms and 1 tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms start to soften, about 6 minutes. Add the porcini and cook until the mushrooms are very tender and release their liquid, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the vermouth and cook until all the liquid is evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add the reserved cup of porcini liquid, leaving any sediment behind in the measuring cup, and cook until reduced to about 3/4 cup, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the heavy cream and 3 Tbs. of the herbs. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep warm.

Bring 3-1/2 cups of water to a boil in a 4-quart heavy-duty saucepan over medium-high heat. Add 1-1/2 tsp. salt and then gradually whisk in the polenta. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook until the polenta absorbs the water and thickens, about 3 minutes. Stir in the remaining 2 Tbs. butter and the mascarpone. Add the Parmigiano and stir until combined. Serve the polenta topped with the mushroom ragoût and sprinkled with the remaining 1 Tbs. herbs.

Short Rib and Dried Porcini Lasagne

This company-worthy lasagne features beef short ribs that are slow-cooked in a hearty tomato sauce until meltingly tender. Béchamel sauce adds creaminess, and porcini mushrooms contribute an earthy note.

• 3/4 oz. (1 cup) dried porcini mushrooms 
• 2 lb. beef short ribs 
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2-1/2Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil  
• 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped 
• 1 small carrot, finely chopped 
• 1 small celery stalk, finely chopped 
• 1 Tbs. tomato paste 
• 1 bay leaf, preferably fresh
• 1/2 cup dry red wine  
• 1-1/2 cups canned crushed tomatoes 
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter 
• 3 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 2 cups whole milk  
• 3/4 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 1-1/2 oz.); more for serving 
• 1 recipe Fresh Pasta for Lasagne 

Soak the mushrooms

 In a small bowl, soak the porcini in 1-1/2 cups warm water until softened, about 10 minutes. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the soaking liquid. Coarsely chop the mushrooms and set aside in a bowl.

Braise the ribs

Season the short ribs all over with 1 tsp. salt and 1/4 tsp. pepper. In a 7- to 8-quart Dutch oven, heat 1-1/2 Tbs. of the oil over medium high heat until shimmering. Add the short ribs, in batches if necessary, and brown all over, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate. Pour off and discard all but a thin layer of fat.

Reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil to the pan. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and a pinch of salt and cook until the vegetables are tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and bay leaf and cook, stirring, until the tomato paste darkens, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the red wine and simmer, stirring and scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon, until almost evaporated, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the reserved mushroom liquid and the tomatoes and bring to a simmer. Add the short ribs and any accumulated juices and the porcini; cover, reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook, turning the ribs every 40 minutes, until the meat is fall-off-the-bone tender, 2-1/2 to 3 hours. 

Put the ribs on a plate to cool. Pour the sauce into a heatproof bowl and discard the bay leaf. When the fat rises to the surface, skim it off and discard. Season to taste with salt and pepper. When the meat is cool enough to handle, remove and discard the bones and any fat or cartilage from the meat. Shred the meat and set aside in a medium bowl. 

Make a béchamel sauce

Melt the butter in a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the flour with a wooden spoon and cook until golden, about 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in the milk and cook at a gentle simmer, stirring often, until the mixture thickens, about 10 minutes. Season with 1 tsp. salt. Mix the béchamel sauce into the short rib sauce.

Assemble and bake the lasagne

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. 

Spread 3/4 cup of the sauce on the bottom of a 9x13x3-inch baking dish. Cover the sauce with a slightly overlapping layer of cooked noodles, cutting them as needed to fill any gaps. Spread 3/4 cup of the sauce evenly over the noodles. Add 1/2 cup of the shredded meat in an even layer and then sprinkle with 2 Tbs. of the Parmigiano. Add another layer of noodles and repeat the layers as instructed above, to make a total of 4 layers of sauce and meat and 5 layers of pasta—at this point, you should have used all the meat but still have about 3/4 cup of sauce and 1/4 cup of Parmigiano left. Spread the remaining sauce evenly over the top and then sprinkle with the remaining Parmigiano.

Cover the baking dish with foil and bake for 40 minutes. Remove the foil and bake until the top is browned and bubbly, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool for at least 10 minutes before serving. Serve sprinkled with additional Parmigiano, if you like. 

Italian-Style Beef and Porcini Stew

The mushroom-infused broth from soaking dried porcini is incorporated into this hearty beef stew for more of that earthy flavor. Serve with crusty Italian bread for mopping up every last bit of broth.

• 3 lb. boneless beef shoulder roast, chuck roast, or top blade, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces
• 2 oz. thick-cut pancetta, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
• 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
• 4 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 1 Tbs. tomato paste
• 2 oz. dried porcini mushrooms, soaked in 2-1/2 cups warm water until soft, then chopped, soaking liquid reserved and strained
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh rosemary
• 1 dried bay leaf
• 1 cup dry red wine
• 3 cups peeled pearl onions
• 1 28-oz. can whole tomatoes, drained and chopped (discard juice)
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil

Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Spread the beef on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.

In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, cook the pancetta in the oil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned but not crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate and set aside. Do not wipe out the pan.

Heat the pancetta fat over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of the beef with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the beef to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the beef, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the beef is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.

Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the yellow onion, celery, and carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in the garlic, tomato paste, soaked porcini, rosemary, and bay leaf and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Return the pancetta to the pot.

Add the wine, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the reserved mushroom soaking liquid. Bring to a boil.

Return the beef to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.

After 1 hour of stewing, add the pearl onions to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, return to the oven. After another 30 minutes, add the tomatoes. Cover with the parchment and lid, return the pot to the oven, and cook until the beef is fork-tender.

Stir in the basil. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Cabbage and Mushroom Pierogi (Pierogi z Kapusta i Grzybami)

These meatless pierogi are a Christmas tradition but they're delicious on any cold night; they can be served either boiled or fried.

For the filling

• 1 oz. dried porcini mushrooms
• Kosher salt
• 1 2-lb. bag refrigerated sauerkraut
• 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped (1 cup)
• Freshly ground black pepper

For the dough

• 2 lb. (7 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more as needed
• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, softened
• 2 cups warm water

Make the filling

Put the mushrooms in a small saucepan with 2 cups water and a pinch of salt; bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook the mushrooms until tender, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, lift the mushrooms out of the liquid, transfer to a cutting board, and chop them. Strain the liquid though a fine sieve lined with a damp paper towel set over a small bowl. Rinse and drain the sauerkraut in a colander, pressing on it to release as much liquid as possible.

Melt 1 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the sauerkraut, mushrooms, and the mushroom cooking liquid. Lower the heat to medium and cook, stirring often, until the liquid has evaporated and the sauerkraut is dry, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the remaining 1 Tbs. butter and cook, stirring often, until the flavors are blended, about 2 minutes more. Let cool to room temperature before using.

Make the dough

Put the flour in a large bowl. Add the butter and, using your fingers, work it into the flour until the mixture has the texture of coarse meal. Still using your fingers, add 1-3/4 cups of the warm water, stirring until the mixture begins to come together. If the mixture is dry, you can add up to 1/4 cup more warm water, a tablespoon at a time, until it forms a cohesive yet shaggy mass. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured work surface, and then gently knead it just until soft and elastic; the dough will not be completely smooth, but it should be easy to shape, with a Play-Doh like consistency. Avoid overkneading, or the dough will become tough. (At this point you can proceed with the recipe or let the dough rest on a floured surface, covered with a clean dishtowel, for up to 1 hour.)

Roll and cut the dough

Divide the dough into 6 grapefruit-size balls (about 8 oz. each). Working with 1 piece of dough at a time on a floured work surface, and keeping the others covered so they don’t dry out, roll the dough into a 10- to 11-inch wide, 1/8-inch-thick circle. Using a floured 3-inch round cookie cutter or inverted glass, cut out circles of dough. Transfer the dough circles to a large parchment-lined baking sheet dusted with flour. Dust with a little more flour and top with another sheet of parchment so they don’t dry out. Repeat with the remaining dough, stacking the circles between sheets of floured parchment and re-rolling the scraps until all of the dough is used.

Fill the dough

Working with 1 dough circle at a time, brush off any excess flour and hold the circle in your palm. Spoon a scant 1 Tbs. of the filling into the center of the circle and fold it in half. Using your fingers, tightly pinch the edges together to seal and create a 1/2-inch border. Arrange the filled pierogi on a lightly floured surface or large rimmed baking sheet and dust very lightly with flour; loosely cover with plastic wrap or a clean dishtowel. Repeat with the remaining dough circles and filling.

Cook the pierogi

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 175°F. Bring a 6- to 8-quart pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Working in batches of 10 to 12, drop the pierogi into the boiling water and give them a gentle stir so they don’t stick together or to the sides of the pot. When they float to the top 5 (after 1 to 2 minutes for room temperature pierogi, 3 to 4 minutes for refrigerated, and 7 to 10 minutes for frozen), use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a platter and keep warm in the oven while cooking the remaining batches.

Serve the pierogi

You can serve the pierogi either boiled or fried. For boiled pierogi, melt the butter in a 1- to 2-quart saucepan. Drizzle the pierogi with the melted butter. Serve hot with the sour cream on the side. For fried pierogi, melt 4 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch heavy-duty skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches of 10 to 12, cook the boiled pierogi, flipping once, until golden-brown and crusty on both sides, 4 to 5 minutes per batch. Transfer to another platter and keep warm in the oven. Repeat, adding more butter as needed. Serve the pierogi with sour cream on the side.

Short Rib and Dried Porcini Lasagne

This company-worthy lasagne features beef short ribs that are slow-cooked in a hearty tomato sauce until meltingly tender. Béchamel sauce adds creaminess, and porcini mushrooms contribute an earthy note.

• 3/4 oz. (1 cup) dried porcini mushrooms 
• 2 lb. beef short ribs 
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2-1/2Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil  
• 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped 
• 1 small carrot, finely chopped 
• 1 small celery stalk, finely chopped 
• 1 Tbs. tomato paste 
• 1 bay leaf, preferably fresh
• 1/2 cup dry red wine  
• 1-1/2 cups canned crushed tomatoes 
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter 
• 3 Tbs. all-purpose flour
• 2 cups whole milk  
• 3/4 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 1-1/2 oz.); more for serving 
• 1 recipe Fresh Pasta for Lasagne 

Soak the mushrooms

 In a small bowl, soak the porcini in 1-1/2 cups warm water until softened, about 10 minutes. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the soaking liquid. Coarsely chop the mushrooms and set aside in a bowl.

Braise the ribs

Season the short ribs all over with 1 tsp. salt and 1/4 tsp. pepper. In a 7- to 8-quart Dutch oven, heat 1-1/2 Tbs. of the oil over medium high heat until shimmering. Add the short ribs, in batches if necessary, and brown all over, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate. Pour off and discard all but a thin layer of fat.

Reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil to the pan. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and a pinch of salt and cook until the vegetables are tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and bay leaf and cook, stirring, until the tomato paste darkens, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the red wine and simmer, stirring and scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon, until almost evaporated, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the reserved mushroom liquid and the tomatoes and bring to a simmer. Add the short ribs and any accumulated juices and the porcini; cover, reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook, turning the ribs every 40 minutes, until the meat is fall-off-the-bone tender, 2-1/2 to 3 hours. 

Put the ribs on a plate to cool. Pour the sauce into a heatproof bowl and discard the bay leaf. When the fat rises to the surface, skim it off and discard. Season to taste with salt and pepper. When the meat is cool enough to handle, remove and discard the bones and any fat or cartilage from the meat. Shred the meat and set aside in a medium bowl. 

Make a béchamel sauce

Melt the butter in a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the flour with a wooden spoon and cook until golden, about 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in the milk and cook at a gentle simmer, stirring often, until the mixture thickens, about 10 minutes. Season with 1 tsp. salt. Mix the béchamel sauce into the short rib sauce.

Assemble and bake the lasagne

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. 

Spread 3/4 cup of the sauce on the bottom of a 9x13x3-inch baking dish. Cover the sauce with a slightly overlapping layer of cooked noodles, cutting them as needed to fill any gaps. Spread 3/4 cup of the sauce evenly over the noodles. Add 1/2 cup of the shredded meat in an even layer and then sprinkle with 2 Tbs. of the Parmigiano. Add another layer of noodles and repeat the layers as instructed above, to make a total of 4 layers of sauce and meat and 5 layers of pasta—at this point, you should have used all the meat but still have about 3/4 cup of sauce and 1/4 cup of Parmigiano left. Spread the remaining sauce evenly over the top and then sprinkle with the remaining Parmigiano.

Cover the baking dish with foil and bake for 40 minutes. Remove the foil and bake until the top is browned and bubbly, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool for at least 10 minutes before serving. Serve sprinkled with additional Parmigiano, if you like. 

Mushroom Ragoût over Creamy Polenta

A mix of mushrooms contributes deep, earthy flavor to this vegetarian main dish. Instant polenta, with a flavor boost from mascarpone and Parmigiano-Reggiano, helps keep the cooking time short.

• 1/2 oz. dried porcini (about 1/2 cup)
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
• 3 medium shallots, thinly sliced (about 1 cup)
• Kosher salt
• 2 lb. mixed fresh mushrooms (shiitake, oyster, cremini, hen of the woods), trimmed and coarsely chopped (10 to 12 cups)
• 1/2 cup dry vermouth
• 2 Tbs. heavy cream
• 1/4 cup chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as tarragon, parsley, thyme, chives, and sage
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup instant polenta
• 1/4 cup mascarpone
• 1/2 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/2 cup using a rasp grater)

In a small bowl, soak the porcini in 1-1/2 cups warm water until softened, about 10 minutes. Lift the mushrooms out and reserve 1 cup of the liquid. Coarsely chop the mushrooms.

Meanwhile, in an 8-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat 1 Tbs. of the butter with the olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallots and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 4 minutes. Add the fresh mushrooms and 1 tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms start to soften, about 6 minutes. Add the porcini and cook until the mushrooms are very tender and release their liquid, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the vermouth and cook until all the liquid is evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add the reserved cup of porcini liquid, leaving any sediment behind in the measuring cup, and cook until reduced to about 3/4 cup, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the heavy cream and 3 Tbs. of the herbs. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep warm.

Bring 3-1/2 cups of water to a boil in a 4-quart heavy-duty saucepan over medium-high heat. Add 1-1/2 tsp. salt and then gradually whisk in the polenta. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook until the polenta absorbs the water and thickens, about 3 minutes. Stir in the remaining 2 Tbs. butter and the mascarpone. Add the Parmigiano and stir until combined. Serve the polenta topped with the mushroom ragoût and sprinkled with the remaining 1 Tbs. herbs.