Potato & Rutabaga Gratin with Blue Cheese

While rutabagas taste and behave a lot like turnips, they’re nuttier, less peppery, and creamier, which is why I prefer them in gratins. The easiest way to peel a rutabaga— especially a waxed one—is with a sharp paring knife. Use a very sharp knife or a mandoline to slice the rutabaga and potatoes.

• 3 cups heavy cream
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 hearty sprigs fresh thyme
• Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
• 3 Tbs. melted unsalted butter; more butter for the foil
• 1 medium rutabaga (about 1-1/2 lb.), peeled, quartered, and very thinly sliced
• 2 to 3 russet potatoes (about 1-1/2 lb.), peeled and very thinly sliced
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 oz. blue cheese, such as Maytag, Roquefort, or Bleu d’Auvergne, crumbled
• 3 Tbs. fresh breadcrumbs, toasted (see How to make fresh breadcrumbs for instructions)

Tip:

For the neatest servings, let the gratin sit for at least 10 min. before slicing.

Heat the oven to 375°F. Rinse a small saucepan in cold water (this will make the pan easier to clean later), add-the cream, garlic, bay leaf, thyme, and nutmeg. Bring to just below a simmer over medium heat, remove from the heat, cover, and set aside to infuse for about 30 min.

Brush a large gratin dish or 3-qt. flameproof casserole dish with a little of the melted butter. Arrange half of the rutabaga slices in the bottom of the dish, followed by half of the potato slices. Season with salt and pepper. Dot the surface with the blue cheese. Continue with another layer of rutabaga slices and a final layer of potatoes. Season the top with salt and pepper. Strain the seasoned cream over the top. In a small bowl, combine the breadcrumbs with the remaining melted butter and sprinkle over the top. Butter the dull side of a large sheet of foil and cover the gratin. Bake for 40 min., remove the foil, and continue to bake until the top is browned, the sides are bubbly, and the potatoes are tender when pierced, another 30 to 40 min. Let sit for 10 min. before serving.

Creamy Parmesan Swiss Chard Gratin

I like the variety of Swiss chard called "Bright Lights," which has yellow and pink stalks, but any Swiss chard will work fine. The chard leaves just need wilting for this gratin, but be sure to sauté the stems until lightly browned; this softens their flavor.

• 1/2 cup toasted or stale coarse breadcrumbs
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter; more for coating the gratin pan
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 2 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
• 3 strips bacon (about 2-1/2 oz.)
• 1 lb. (about 1 bunch) Swiss chard, washed and drained, stems removed and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices, leaves cut into 1/2-inch wide ribbons (to yield about 2-3/4 cups stems and 7 to 8 cups leaves)
• 1/3 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Heat the oven to 400ºF. Butter a shallow 5- or 6-cup ceramic gratin dish. Melt 1 Tbs. of the butter and toss it with the breadcrumbs; set aside.

In a medium saucepan, bring the cream and garlic to a boil (watch that it doesn't boil over), immediately lower the heat, and simmer vigorously for 5 minutes; the cream should be reduced to about 3/4 cup. Take the pan off the heat and remove the garlic cloves with a slotted spoon. Let the cream cool slightly, stirring occasionally to loosen. Season it with a few grinds of fresh pepper and 1/4 tsp. of the salt.

Meanwhile, in a large (12-inch) nonstick skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until crisp and browned. With tongs, transfer it to paper towels; crumble when cool. Leave the bacon fat in pan (if there's more than 2 Tbs., drain a little off). Add the remaining 1 Tbs. butter to the skillet and let it melt. Add the chard stems and sauté them over medium to medium-high heat until they're somewhat softened and browned on the edges, about 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium, add the chard leaves and toss them with the contents of the skillet. Season them with the remaining 1/4 tsp. salt. (You can add the leaves in two batches for easier handling.) Sauté until all the leaves are wilted, about 2 minutes. Use tongs to transfer the contents of the pan to the gratin dish (leave behind any excess liquid in the sauté pan), spreading them evenly.

Sauté sliced chard stems first until tender; then add the leaves and wilt them.

Sprinkle the crumbled bacon and then the cheese over the chard. Pour the seasoned cream over all and top with the buttered breadcrumbs. Bake for 25 minutes; the gratin will be brown and bubbly. Let rest for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.

Sweet Noodle Kugel

At Passover time, this sweet kugel is ideal for a light lunch, especially the day after the large Seder meal. If you are serving it during Passover, make sure to buy noodles that are Kosher for Passover.

• 1/2 cup golden raisins
• 1/2 lb. broad egg noodles
• 4 Tbs. unsalted butter (1/2 stick), melted
• 16 oz. cottage cheese
• 2 cups crème fraîche
• 4 large eggs, beaten
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1 tsp. ground nutmeg

Place the raisins in a small bowl. Add warm water to cover and set aside to soak for 1 hour. Drain in a mesh strainer.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly butter a 9 x 13-inch baking dish. Bring a large pot of salted water to boiling over high heat; stir in the noodles and cook for 6 minutes. Drain the noodles in a colander and transfer to a large bowl. Pour in the butter and toss until the noodles are coated.

Mix the cottage cheese, crème fraîche, eggs, and vanilla in a medium bowl; stir in the sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Add to the noodles and stir until combined; stir in the raisins. Spoon the noodle mixture into the prepared baking dish. Bake until the filling is set and the top is golden brown—30 to 45 minutes.

Breakfast Casserole

Lightly sweet, egg-rich challah makes this creamy egg casserole even more full-flavored. Baking it in a hot-water bath allows it to cook gently and retain its moistness. The recipe, adapted from our TV show Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking, has been simplified for the home cook.

• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter, plus more for the baking dish
• 1 lb. sweet Italian sausage, casings removed
• 1 lb. asparagus, tough ends removed; sliced into 1/4-inch pieces
• 4 cups packed baby spinach, long stems removed (about 3 oz.)
• 1/2 cup finely chopped whole scallions (about 5)
• 4stalks green garlic (root ends trimmed and any tough green parts
  discarded), cut into 1/4-inch pieces, or 2 cloves garlic, minced, and 3
  more whole scallions, chopped
• Kosher salt
• 1/2 lb. brioche or challah bread, cut into 3/4-inch cubes (from five to six 3/4-inch slices)
• 8 large eggs, preferably organic
• 1-1/2 cups heavy cream
• 1 Tbs. fresh marjoram, chopped
• Freshly ground black pepper

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Butter a 2-1/2- to 3-quart shallow baking dish (about 2 inches deep; preferably with handles) and set aside.

Have a kettle of hot water ready, and a larger baking pan in which the baking dish fits comfortably with enough room to remove the dish easily with silicone oven mitts.

In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat, add the sausage and cook, stirring and breaking up the meat into small pieces, until cooked through, 6 to 7 minutes. Remove to a large bowl and set aside.

In the same skillet over medium heat, melt 1 Tbs. butter. Add all the vegetables and 1/4 tsp. salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and bright green, about 5 minutes. Add the vegetable mixture and the cubed bread to the bowl with the sausage and mix well.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, marjoram, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Add the egg mixture to the bowl with the sausage-vegetable mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until all the ingredients are combined. Set the buttered baking dish inside the larger baking pan and pour the contents of the bowl into the baking dish. Cover the baking dish with a piece of foil cut slightly larger than the size of the dish.

Place the baking pan in the oven, then pour enough hot water from the kettle to come halfway up the sides of the baking dish to create a water bath.

Bake for 1 hour. If the mixture is still loose, remove the foil from the baking dish and bake for an additional 15 minutes or until the center is firm.

Remove the pan from the oven and carefully remove the dish from the water bath using silicone oven mitts.

Let the casserole cool for 15 minutes before serving.

Sausage and Egg Enchiladas with Tomatillo Sauce

Tortillas stuffed with spicy chorizo, scrambled eggs, and potatoes are topped off with a tangy tomatillo sauce and melted cheese for a breakfast that will keep you warm all day. The heat level on this dish is adjustable—if you prefer a milder dish, use only half a jalapeño in the sauce and leave out the green chiles.

For the tomatillo sauce

• 2 lb. fresh tomatillos, husked and rinsed in warm water
• 1 medium jalapeño, stemmed
• 1 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 large clove garlic, peeled
• 1 tsp. ground cumin
• Kosher salt
• 1 cup heavy cream

For the enchiladas

• 2 to 3 Tbs. vegetable oil; more for the baking dish
• 1 small russet potato, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice (1 cup)
• 3/4 lb. fresh, raw chorizo, casings removed and meat crumbled
• 1 medium red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice (1 cup)
• 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped (1/2 cup)
• 1 4-oz. can diced green chiles, drained (optional)
• 6 large eggs
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 16 6-inch corn tortillas
• 4 oz. Monterey Jack, grated (1 cup)
• Sour cream, for serving (optional)

The night before

Make the sauce
Put the tomatillos and the jalapeño in a 4-quart saucepan and add water to within 1 inch of the top. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, uncovered, turning the tomatillos occasionally, until they’re khakigreen all over and very tender, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the tomatillos to a blender. Halve the jalapeño, and add one half to the blender. Add the cilantro, garlic, cumin, and 2 tsp. salt and purée (you should still see the tomatillo seeds). Taste and blend in the other jalapeño half if you prefer a spicier sauce. Add the cream and pulse to blend. Transfer to a bowl and let cool to room temperature.

Assemble the Enchiladas
Oil a 9x13–inch baking dish and set aside.

Add the potato and cook until just tender, about 4 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Meanwhile,cook the chorizo in an 11- to 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-highheat, breaking up the meat, until cooked through, about 4 minutes. Use aslotted spoon to transfer the chorizo to a large bowl. Discard all but 1Tbs. fat from the pan. (If there’s less than 1 Tbs. of fat, add a bit
of the vegetable oil.)

Set the skillet over medium heat. Add the
bell pepper and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened,
about 5 minutes. Stir in the potato and then cook undisturbed until
browned on the bottom, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the mixture to the chorizo.
Add the green chiles, if using.

Whisk the eggs, 1 tsp. salt, and
several grinds of black pepper in a medium bowl. Melt the butter in the
skillet over low heat and cook until the foam subsides. Add the eggs andcook without stirring until they begin to set on the bottom, about 20
seconds. Draw a wooden spoon across the pan a few times to form large
curds. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the eggs are
barely set and still quite moist, 1 to 2 minutes—do not cook through.
Add the eggs to the chorizo mixture.

Stir 1 cup of the tomatillo sauce into the eggchorizo mixture. Cover the remaining sauce and refrigerate.

Brushboth sides of one tortilla with oil and put on a microwaveable plate.
Oil the remaining tortillas on one side and stack, oiled side up. Cover
with a paper towel and microwave the tortillas until warm and pliable, 1to 1-1/2 minutes. Arrange about 1/3 cup of the egg mixture in a line
down the center of each tortilla and roll it up. Place each filled
tortilla seam side down in the prepared baking dish. Cover the dish withplastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

In the morning

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Uncover the enchiladas, pour the remaining tomatillo sauce evenly over them, and top with the cheese. Bake until the sauce is bubbly and the cheese is browned, 30 to 40 minutes. Let stand for 5 minutes and then serve with the sour cream, if using.

Butternut Squash & Potato Gratin with Walnut Crust

To vary this gratin, add tomatoes, caramelized onions, or other vegetables. It's wise to put a sheet of foil on the bottom rack of the oven to catch any cream that bubbles over.

• 1 butternut squash (about 2 lb.), peeled
• 2 Idaho potatoes (about 1-1/4 lb. total), peeled
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 6 Tbs. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1/2 cup finely chopped walnuts
• 1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs combined with 2 Tbs. melted butter

Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease an 8x8-inch (2-qt.) glass or ceramic baking dish. Cut the squash in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds and fibers. Slice the squash and potatoes about 1/8 inch thick (use a mandoline if you have one). Line the bottom of the baking dish with a layer of squash (overlapping slightly), season lightly with salt and pepper, sprinkle with a little of the Parmigiano, and drizzle with a little of the cream. Cover with a layer of potato slices, season with salt, pepper, Parmigiano, and cream. Repeat with the remaining squash and potatoes until the dish is full, ending with a top layer of squash, seasoned and topped with any remaining cheese and cream. (You may have extra squash.) Press down lightly to distribute the cream and compact the layers. The last layer of squash should be just sitting in the cream, but not covered by it. Cover the dish with foil and bake until the vegetables feel tender when poked with a thin, sharp knife (check the middle layer), about 1 hour and 10 minutes.

For a gratin, alternate layers of squash and potato, drizzling cream and sprinkling Parmigiano in between.

Press gently on the completed layers to distribute the cream evenly.

Combine the walnuts and buttered breadcrumbs. Remove the gratin from the oven, sprinkle with the breadcrumb-nut mixture, and bake until the top is lightly browned, 5 to 10 minutes. Let sit in a warm place for 20 minutes before serving so that liquids will set and tighten the gratin. Cut into 9 squares and serve.

Finish cooking the gratin uncovered to brown the breadcrumb-walnut topping.

Sweet Potato, Parmesan & Goat Cheese Galette

I prefer to make this galette in a larger (9-1/2-inch) tart pan, though it works in a smaller (7-1/2-inch) one too. I use the same amount of ingredients in either, but I usually get just three layers of potatoes instead of four in the bigger pan. The thinner wedges of galette make an excellent bed for a few slices of roast pork loin, roast turkey, or roast duck.

• 3 Tbs. plus 1/2 tsp. extra virgin olive oil
• 1/4 cup finely chopped shallots
• 1-1/4 lb. sweet potatoes, peeled
• 1 heaping tsp. coarsely chopped fresh thyme leaves
• 3/4 tsp. kosher salt
• 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 3/4 to 1 cup (about 4 oz.) finely crumbled fresh goat cheese (buy a slightly drier, less creamy brand, which is easier to crumble)

Combine the shallots and the 3 Tbs. oil in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce to a low simmer and cook for about 2 minutes, or until the shallots are nicely softened (do not let them brown). Remove from the heat and let cool completely (about 25 minutes at room temperature; cool more quickly in the refrigerator, if you like).

Heat the oven to 400°. Rub the bottom and inside edge of a 9-1/2-inch tart pan with 1/2 tsp. of olive oil or spray with olive-oil spray. Put the tart pan on a rimmed baking sheet lined with foil.

Slice the potatoes as thinly as possible (about 1/16 inch) with a chef’s knife. (Tip: If the potato wobbles, slice a thin sliver off the bottom lengthwise to stabilize it; then continue slicing crosswise.) Discard the ends. Put the potato slices in a mixing bowl, add the shallots and olive oil and the herbs, and toss well to thoroughly coat the potatoes (a small rubber spatula works well).

Cover the bottom of the tart pan with a layer of sweet potato slices, slightly overlapping. Start along the outside edge of the tart pan and, making slightly overlapping rings, move inward until the bottom is covered with one layer of potatoes. Sprinkle some kosher salt (a generous 1/8 tsp.) overall and then sprinkle about a quarter of the Parmigiano and about a quarter of the goat cheese. Arrange another layer of potatoes, season with salt, sprinkle with the cheeses, and repeat two more times, until you have three layers of potatoes. (This is a messy job; you’ll need a damp towel to wipe your hands in between layers.) Top the last layer with more salt and any remaining cheese.

Bake the galette until the top is a deep golden brown (don’t worry if the goat cheese seems very brown) and the potatoes are tender in all places (a fork with thin tines should poke easily through all the layers), 40 to 45 minutes.

Let the galette cool in the pan for 10 to 15 minutes, carefully remove it from the pan, transfer it to a cutting board, and cut it into wedges.

Peas with Baked Ricotta and Bread Crumbs

When faced with a cup of just-shucked fresh peas, try this simple, light dinner, cooking them with minced shallot, sage, and lemon, then spooning them over baked ricotta with crispy bread crumbs.

• Olive oil
• 1 cup high-quality ricotta cheese, such as hand-dipped full-fat ricotta
• 2 to 3 Tbs. fresh bread crumbs
• 4 tsp. butter
• 2 large shallots or 1/2 small onion, finely diced (about 1/3 cup)
• 5 small sage leaves, minced (about 1-1/2 tsp.)
• 1-1/2 lbs. pod peas, shucked (about 1 cup)
• Grated zest of 1 lemon
• Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
• Chunk of Parmesan cheese, for grating

Heat the oven to 375°F. Lightly oil a small baking dish; a round Spanish earthenware dish about 6 inches across is perfect for this amount.

If your ricotta is wet and milky, drain it first by putting it in a colander and pressing out the excess liquid. Pack the ricotta into the dish, drizzle a little olive oil over the surface, and bake 20 minutes or until the cheese has begun to set and brown on top. Cover the surface with the bread crumbs and continue to bake until the bread crumbs are browned and crisp, another 10 minutes. (The amount of time it takes for ricotta cheese to bake until set can vary tremendously, so it may well take longer than the times given here, especially if it wasn’t drained.)

When the cheese is finished baking, heat the butter in a small skillet over medium heat. When the butter foams, add the shallots and sage and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the peas, 1/2 cup water, and the lemon zest. Simmer until the peas are bright green and tender; the time will vary, but it should be 3 to 5 minutes. Whatever you do, don’t let them turn gray. Season with salt and a little freshly ground pepper, not too much.

Divide the ricotta between 2 plates. Spoon the peas over the cheese. Grate some Parmesan over all and enjoy while warm.

Sausage and Egg Enchiladas with Tomatillo Sauce

Tortillas stuffed with spicy chorizo, scrambled eggs, and potatoes are topped off with a tangy tomatillo sauce and melted cheese for a breakfast that will keep you warm all day. The heat level on this dish is adjustable—if you prefer a milder dish, use only half a jalapeño in the sauce and leave out the green chiles.

For the tomatillo sauce

• 2 lb. fresh tomatillos, husked and rinsed in warm water
• 1 medium jalapeño, stemmed
• 1 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 large clove garlic, peeled
• 1 tsp. ground cumin
• Kosher salt
• 1 cup heavy cream

For the enchiladas

• 2 to 3 Tbs. vegetable oil; more for the baking dish
• 1 small russet potato, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice (1 cup)
• 3/4 lb. fresh, raw chorizo, casings removed and meat crumbled
• 1 medium red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice (1 cup)
• 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped (1/2 cup)
• 1 4-oz. can diced green chiles, drained (optional)
• 6 large eggs
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 16 6-inch corn tortillas
• 4 oz. Monterey Jack, grated (1 cup)
• Sour cream, for serving (optional)

The night before

Make the sauce
Put the tomatillos and the jalapeño in a 4-quart saucepan and add water to within 1 inch of the top. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, uncovered, turning the tomatillos occasionally, until they’re khakigreen all over and very tender, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the tomatillos to a blender. Halve the jalapeño, and add one half to the blender. Add the cilantro, garlic, cumin, and 2 tsp. salt and purée (you should still see the tomatillo seeds). Taste and blend in the other jalapeño half if you prefer a spicier sauce. Add the cream and pulse to blend. Transfer to a bowl and let cool to room temperature.

Assemble the Enchiladas
Oil a 9x13–inch baking dish and set aside.

Add the potato and cook until just tender, about 4 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Meanwhile,cook the chorizo in an 11- to 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-highheat, breaking up the meat, until cooked through, about 4 minutes. Use aslotted spoon to transfer the chorizo to a large bowl. Discard all but 1Tbs. fat from the pan. (If there’s less than 1 Tbs. of fat, add a bit
of the vegetable oil.)

Set the skillet over medium heat. Add the
bell pepper and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened,
about 5 minutes. Stir in the potato and then cook undisturbed until
browned on the bottom, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the mixture to the chorizo.
Add the green chiles, if using.

Whisk the eggs, 1 tsp. salt, and
several grinds of black pepper in a medium bowl. Melt the butter in the
skillet over low heat and cook until the foam subsides. Add the eggs andcook without stirring until they begin to set on the bottom, about 20
seconds. Draw a wooden spoon across the pan a few times to form large
curds. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the eggs are
barely set and still quite moist, 1 to 2 minutes—do not cook through.
Add the eggs to the chorizo mixture.

Stir 1 cup of the tomatillo sauce into the eggchorizo mixture. Cover the remaining sauce and refrigerate.

Brushboth sides of one tortilla with oil and put on a microwaveable plate.
Oil the remaining tortillas on one side and stack, oiled side up. Cover
with a paper towel and microwave the tortillas until warm and pliable, 1to 1-1/2 minutes. Arrange about 1/3 cup of the egg mixture in a line
down the center of each tortilla and roll it up. Place each filled
tortilla seam side down in the prepared baking dish. Cover the dish withplastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

In the morning

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Uncover the enchiladas, pour the remaining tomatillo sauce evenly over them, and top with the cheese. Bake until the sauce is bubbly and the cheese is browned, 30 to 40 minutes. Let stand for 5 minutes and then serve with the sour cream, if using.

Lamb Meatballs with Yogurt Sauce

These Moroccan-spiced meatballs show up at family meal at Gramercy Tavern, where they’re served with a simple yogurt sauce that provides a creamy counterpoint and a cooling cucumber salad. They are seasoned with ras el hanout, a spice blend found in Middle Eastern markets. You bake the meatballs on a rack set on a baking sheet, rather than browning them on the stovetop, for a dish that cooks while you do something else.

For the meatballs

• 1 Tbs. pine nuts
• 1 lb. ground lamb shoulder
• 1 Tbs. ras el hanout, or more to taste
• 1 Tbs. kosher salt, or more to taste
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

For the sauce

• 2 cups Greek yogurt or labneh
• Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley

Make the meatballs

Preheat the oven to 425ºF. Set a rack on a baking sheet.

Toast the pine nuts in a small skillet over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring so that they don’t burn. Transfer to a plate to cool, then chop them.

Put the lamb in a large bowl. Flatten it out, sprinkle the pine nuts, ras el hanout, salt, and garlic over it, and mix well by hand. To test for seasonings, flatten a tablespoon of the mixture into a patty, sear it in a small nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, and taste it. Add more salt and/or ras el hanout if necessary to the rest of the lamb mixture.

Moisten your hands and form the lamb mixture into 8 meatballs, about 2 inches in diameter, moistening your hands again if the mixture starts to stick. Arrange on the rack on the baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove the meatballs from the oven and let stand for 5 minutes to finish cooking.

Make the sauce

Put the yogurt in a bowl and season with salt and white pepper to taste. Stir in the oil. Slowly add up to 1/2 cup water, until the sauce is the consistency you like. Stir in the parsley.

Put the meatballs on a platter, spoon the sauce over them, and serve.

Golden Russet Potato Gratin

• 1-1/2 Tbs. olive oil
• 2 large yellow onions (about 1 lb. total), halved and thinly sliced from root to blossom end
• Kosher salt
• 1-1/2 cups low-salt canned chicken broth
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 3-1/2 lb. russet potatoes (about 6 medium)
• 2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup lightly packed grated Gruyère (about-1-1/2 oz.)
• 3 Tbs. freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano

Heat the oven to 400°F. Heat a large skillet over medium heat, add the oil, and when it’s-hot, add the onions. Season well with salt and cook, stirring often, until the onions turn translucent and soften completely, about 10 min. Raise the heat to high and cook, stirring constantly, until the onions darken uniformly to a light brown, about 4 min. Carefully add the chicken broth (it will steam) and scrape the bottom of the pan to incorporate the browned bits into the broth. Remove from the heat.

Grease a 2-1/2-quart casserole dish (about 8x11 inches) with 1 Tbs. of the butter. Cut the remaining butter into 1/4-inch cubes. Peel the potatoes. Using a knife or a mandoline, cut the potatoes into disks about 1/8 to 1/16 inch thick. Arrange a layer of potatoes, slightly overlapping, on the bottom of the casserole dish, starting at one end of the dish and working to the other end in rows. Cover evenly with a third of the onions (use a slotted spoon), a third of the thyme, 1/4 tsp. of the salt, some pepper, and about 1-1/2 tsp. of the butter. Arrange two more layers of potatoes, onions, thyme, salt, pepper, and butter over the first. Pour the broth over this third layer. For the fourth and last layer, use the remaining potatoes and butter and sprinkle on the Gruyère and Parmigiano.

Pour the chicken broth over the potatoes, which are layered with browned onions, fresh thyme, and butter.

Neatly arrange a top layer of slightly overlapping potatoes. Sprinkle on the cheeses a nd butter, which will create a savory crust.

Bake until the top layer is golden brown, the potatoes are tender when pierced, and most of the broth has been absorbed (use a-knife to peek around the edges), about 50 min. Let the gratin cool for 20 min. before cutting and serving.

Breakfast Casserole

Lightly sweet, egg-rich challah makes this creamy egg casserole even more full-flavored. Baking it in a hot-water bath allows it to cook gently and retain its moistness. The recipe, adapted from our TV show Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking, has been simplified for the home cook.

• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter, plus more for the baking dish
• 1 lb. sweet Italian sausage, casings removed
• 1 lb. asparagus, tough ends removed; sliced into 1/4-inch pieces
• 4 cups packed baby spinach, long stems removed (about 3 oz.)
• 1/2 cup finely chopped whole scallions (about 5)
• 4stalks green garlic (root ends trimmed and any tough green parts
  discarded), cut into 1/4-inch pieces, or 2 cloves garlic, minced, and 3
  more whole scallions, chopped
• Kosher salt
• 1/2 lb. brioche or challah bread, cut into 3/4-inch cubes (from five to six 3/4-inch slices)
• 8 large eggs, preferably organic
• 1-1/2 cups heavy cream
• 1 Tbs. fresh marjoram, chopped
• Freshly ground black pepper

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Butter a 2-1/2- to 3-quart shallow baking dish (about 2 inches deep; preferably with handles) and set aside.

Have a kettle of hot water ready, and a larger baking pan in which the baking dish fits comfortably with enough room to remove the dish easily with silicone oven mitts.

In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat, add the sausage and cook, stirring and breaking up the meat into small pieces, until cooked through, 6 to 7 minutes. Remove to a large bowl and set aside.

In the same skillet over medium heat, melt 1 Tbs. butter. Add all the vegetables and 1/4 tsp. salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and bright green, about 5 minutes. Add the vegetable mixture and the cubed bread to the bowl with the sausage and mix well.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, marjoram, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Add the egg mixture to the bowl with the sausage-vegetable mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until all the ingredients are combined. Set the buttered baking dish inside the larger baking pan and pour the contents of the bowl into the baking dish. Cover the baking dish with a piece of foil cut slightly larger than the size of the dish.

Place the baking pan in the oven, then pour enough hot water from the kettle to come halfway up the sides of the baking dish to create a water bath.

Bake for 1 hour. If the mixture is still loose, remove the foil from the baking dish and bake for an additional 15 minutes or until the center is firm.

Remove the pan from the oven and carefully remove the dish from the water bath using silicone oven mitts.

Let the casserole cool for 15 minutes before serving.

Mushroom & Potato Gratin

• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter, softened at room temperature
• 1 recipe Mushroom Sauté
• 1 cup homemade or low-salt chicken broth
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 2-1/2 lb. russet potatoes
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme leaves
• 2-1/2 tsp. kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup (about 2 oz.) finely grated Gruyère

Heat the oven to 375°F and butter a 9x13-inch baking dish with the softened butter.

Prepare the mushroom sauté, using the optional deglazing liquid if you like. Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl and return the pan to medium-high heat. Pour in the broth and scrape the pan with a wooden spoon until most of the cooked-on bits are released into the broth. Combine the broth with the cream in a measuring cup with a spout.

Peel and slice the potatoes very thinly (about 1/8-inch thick). In a large bowl, toss the sliced potatoes with the thyme, salt, and several grinds of pepper. Overlap half of the potato slices in two even layers to cover the bottom of the buttered baking dish. Distribute the mushrooms over the potatoes. Cover the mushrooms with two more overlapping layers of the remaining potato slices. Pour the broth and  cream mixture over the potatoes. Sprinkle the cheese evenly over the top.

Cover the gratin with foil and bake it for 30 minutes. Uncover it and press the potatoes down with a spatula. Bake uncovered, rotating the pan occasionally for even browning, until the top is browned and the potatoes feel tender when poked with a fork, another 25 to 30 minutes. The cream will be gently bubbling. Let the gratin sit for about 15 minutes before serving.

Kale Chips with Toasted Lemon Zest

Wash and dry the kale leaves well in advance of roasting to ensure that they are completely dry. Serve these highly snackable chips in a wide, shallow dish, or cool to room temperature in a single layer so they don’t steam and become soggy. Either way, serve soon after roasting.

• 9 to 11 oz. mature curly kale, trimmed and torn into bite-size pieces
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tsp. apple cider vinegar
• 2 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest (from about 2 large lemons)
• Kosher salt

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.

Pile the kale on a large rimmed baking sheet. Toss with the olive oil and vinegar. Sprinkle the lemon zest over the kale and then season very lightly with salt.

Spread the kale evenly on the baking sheet and roast until it has begun to steam and dry out around the edges of the leaves, about 5 minutes. Using tongs, toss the kale, keeping it evenly distributed, and rotate the baking sheet to ensure even cooking. Continue to roast until the kale is dark green and shatteringly crisp, 7 to 10 minutes more. Some of the edges may begin to brown. Serve hot or at room temperature soon after roasting.

Baked Parmesan French Toast with Tapenade and Arugula Salad

In this savory take on a breakfast favorite, slices of ciabatta are dipped in a custard infused with Parmesan and thyme and are then baked. Served with a dab of tapenade and arugula lightly dressed with a honey-lemon vinaigrette, it’s a perfect casual supper.

• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter, softened
• 4 large eggs
• 2 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated on the small holes of a box grater (about 3/4 cup)
• 1/2 cup whole milk
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh thyme
• 1/4 tsp. Tabasco sauce
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 8 3/4-inch-thick slices ciabatta bread
• 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
• 1/4 tsp. honey
• 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 5 oz. baby arugula (about 5 lightly packed cups)
• 1/4 cup store-bought or homemade tapenade

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425°F. Butter a large rimmed baking sheet.

In a 9x13-inch baking dish, whisk together the eggs, Parmigiano, milk, thyme, Tabasco, 1/4 tsp. salt, and 1/8 tsp. pepper. Put the bread in the dish in a single layer, turn to coat on both sides, and let sit, turning once more, for 5 minutes.

Arrange the bread on the baking sheet. With your fingers, gather any remaining cheese from the baking dish and spread it over the slices. Bake until the bottoms are golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Flip and continue baking until the bottoms are golden, about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the lemon juice, honey, 1/4 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper; whisk in the olive oil. Add the arugula and toss.

Serve the French toast with the salad and tapenade on the side.

Shiitake and Roasted Red Pepper Puff Pastry Tart

Almonds and tarragon may seem like unusual additions to a mushroom and pepper tart, but the combination is simply amazing. Serve a slice with a green salad to make it a meal.

• 1 sheet frozen puff pastry (about 9 oz.), thawed
• 1 large egg
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 8 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and cut into bite-size pieces (about 3 cups)
• Kosher salt
• 4 oz. jarred roasted red peppers, patted dry and coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
• 4 oz. Gruyère, coarsely grated (about 1-1/2 cups)
• 1 Tbs plus 1 tsp. finely chopped fresh tarragon
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 3 Tbs. sliced almonds

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F.

Unfold the pastry sheet on a parchment-lined cookie sheet and score a 3/4-inch border on each side with the tip of a paring knife. Beat the egg in a medium bowl. Brush the border with some of the egg. Prick the rest of the crust all over with a fork and bake until puffed and golden, about 15 minutes. Gently press the center of the pastry to flatten large air pockets.

Meanwhile, heat the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until the foam subsides. Add the mushrooms, season with 1/2 tsp. salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the edges start to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat to cool slightly.

Add the mushrooms, red peppers, cheese, 1 Tbs. of the tarragon, and 1/2 tsp. pepper to the remaining beaten egg and gently stir to combine. Spread the mixture over the tart, leaving the border uncovered. Sprinkle the almonds over the vegetables and continue to bake until the cheese is melted and the topping is heated through, about 10 minutes more. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with the remaining 1 tsp. tarragon. Cool slightly before serving.

Lamb Meatballs with Yogurt Sauce

These Moroccan-spiced meatballs show up at family meal at Gramercy Tavern, where they’re served with a simple yogurt sauce that provides a creamy counterpoint and a cooling cucumber salad. They are seasoned with ras el hanout, a spice blend found in Middle Eastern markets. You bake the meatballs on a rack set on a baking sheet, rather than browning them on the stovetop, for a dish that cooks while you do something else.

For the meatballs

• 1 Tbs. pine nuts
• 1 lb. ground lamb shoulder
• 1 Tbs. ras el hanout, or more to taste
• 1 Tbs. kosher salt, or more to taste
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

For the sauce

• 2 cups Greek yogurt or labneh
• Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley

Make the meatballs

Preheat the oven to 425ºF. Set a rack on a baking sheet.

Toast the pine nuts in a small skillet over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring so that they don’t burn. Transfer to a plate to cool, then chop them.

Put the lamb in a large bowl. Flatten it out, sprinkle the pine nuts, ras el hanout, salt, and garlic over it, and mix well by hand. To test for seasonings, flatten a tablespoon of the mixture into a patty, sear it in a small nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, and taste it. Add more salt and/or ras el hanout if necessary to the rest of the lamb mixture.

Moisten your hands and form the lamb mixture into 8 meatballs, about 2 inches in diameter, moistening your hands again if the mixture starts to stick. Arrange on the rack on the baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove the meatballs from the oven and let stand for 5 minutes to finish cooking.

Make the sauce

Put the yogurt in a bowl and season with salt and white pepper to taste. Stir in the oil. Slowly add up to 1/2 cup water, until the sauce is the consistency you like. Stir in the parsley.

Put the meatballs on a platter, spoon the sauce over them, and serve.

Spicy Maple Walnuts

These nuts continue to toast a bit from the intense heat of the glaze, so don't overbake them. Leave the ginger slices in the nut mixture for a delicious surprise. Pecans or hazelnuts are also great this way.

• 4 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1/3 cup pure maple syrup
• 6 quarter-size slices fresh ginger, halved
• 1 Tbs. water
• 1 tsp. ground ginger
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1/4 tsp. Tabasco, or to taste
• 1 lb. (4 cups) shelled walnuts

In a conventional oven

Heat the oven to 300ºF. Combine all the ingredients except the nuts in a small saucepan and slowly simmer over low heat for 2 to 3 min. Put the nuts in a bowl, pour the glaze over them, and stir and toss to coat them with the glaze. Line a jellyroll pan with foil and spread the nuts in a single layer on it. Bake for 30 to 40 min., stirring at 15- and then 10-min. intervals. When the nuts look light and almost dry as you toss them, they're done. Don't touch them; the caramelized sugar is extremely hot. Slide the foil onto a rack and let the nuts cool completely.

In a microwave

Put the butter in the largest shallow dish that fits in your microwave. Heat on high for 1 min. to melt the butter. Add the remaining ingredients except the nuts and heat for 3 min. on high. Stir to combine. Add the nuts, stirring and tossing to coat them with the glaze. Microwave on high for up to 9 min., stirring at 2-min. and then 1-min. intervals to redistribute the coating and prevent scorching. When all the liquid has caramelized, they're done. Don't touch them; the caramelized sugar is extremely hot. Carefully slide the nuts onto a foil-lined rack to cool.

For either method

Store in airtight containers or plastic freezer bags.

Country Ham and Cheddar Spoonbread

Grits are the perfect vehicle for smoky country ham and extra-sharp Cheddar in this fluffy, satisfying brunch dish.

• 1 cup grits (preferably stone-ground, not quick-cooking or instant)
• 1 cup whole milk
• Kosher salt
• 4 oz. extra-sharp Cheddar, coarsely grated (1 packed cup)
• 3 oz. country ham (uncooked or cooked), very finely diced (1/2 cup)
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 large egg yolks
• 6 large egg whites
• Unsalted butter for the dish

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Put the grits, milk, 3/4 tsp. salt, and 3 cups water in a 2-quart saucepan, cover, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Lower the heat to medium and cook, uncovered, stirring frequently, until some of the water has been absorbed but the mixture is still very soupy, 5 to 7 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook, stirring every 2 minutes, until creamy, soft, and just slightly soupy (it should fall easily from a spoon), 8 to 10 minutes. Turn off the heat, add the cheese and ham to the grits and stir until thoroughly combined. Season to taste with black pepper.

In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks until pale yellow. Pour 1 cup of the grits into the yolks, whisking constantly. When the mixture is smooth, add the remaining grits to the bowl and whisk thoroughly until evenly combined.

In another large bowl, beat the egg whites to stiff peaks with an electric mixer. Using a large serving spoon, gently fold the egg whites a third at a time into the grits mixture just until the whites are blended in.

Butter a 3-quart baking dish and pour the grits mixture into it. Bake until the spoonbread is puffed and lightly browned, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and let stand 10 to 15 minutes before serving (it will deflate).

Baked Ham with Tangerine-Marmalade Glaze

A supermarket "city ham" is already fully cooked, so heating it isn't essential. But a warm ham tastes better, and baking concentrates the meat's flavor and improves its texture. It also allows you to jazz up the ham with this citrus-tinged glaze.Watch the Video Recipe to learn how to score the ham, make and apply the glaze, and how to whip up a sauce using the pan juices. 

• 1 half-ham, preferably bone-in
• 1-1/2 cups store-bought orange juice
• 1/2 cup tangerine or other citrus marmalade
• 1/4 cup packed light brown sugar
• 1/4 tsp. ground ginger
• 1/8 tsp. ground cloves
• 2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice, more to taste
• 1 Tbs. cornstarch mixed with 3 Tbs. water

Bake the ham:

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. Trim away any skin and external fat to a thickness of about 1/4 inch. Set the ham fat side up and score the fat 1/4 inch deep with diagonal slices every 2 inches so that it forms a cross-hatched diamond pattern.

Set the ham in a sturdy roasting pan or a baking dish. It should fit fairly snugly with only a couple of inches of space on any side. Add the orange juice, plus enough water to reach a 1/4-inch depth. Bake, adding water as needed to maintain 1/4 inch of liquid in the pan, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the ham registers 105° to 110°F, 1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours (it should take about 15 minutes per pound).

While ham is baking, gently warm 1/4 cup of the marmalade in a small saucepan set over medium-low heat. Stir in the brown sugar, ginger, and cloves to combine.

Brush with the glaze:

Remove the ham from the oven and raise the temperature to 425°F. Add more water to the pan so the liquid is about 1/2 inch deep. Using a large spoon or pastry brush, smear the glaze generously over the top of the ham. Return the pan to the oven (even if it hasn't reached 425°F yet) and bake until the glaze on the ham bubbles and begins to darken, 10 to 15 min; the ham should have an internal temperature of 120° to 125°F.

Remove the ham from the oven and transfer to a carving board or large platter. Tent loosely with foil and let rest for 20 to 30 minutes while you make the pan sauce. During this period, the ham's internal temperature should rise to 130° to 140°F.

Make the sauce:

Pour the pan juices into a gravy separator or a 4-cup Pyrex measuring cup. Let sit for 10 to 15 minutes to allow any fat to rise and then pour or spoon off the fat and discard (some hams don't exude much fat).

Pour the pan juices into a 2-qt. saucepan, whisk in the remaining 1/4 cup marmalade and lemon juice, and bring to a boil. Taste the sauce, and if the flavor isn't as intense as you'd like, continue to boil to concentrate the flavors as desired.

Stir in about half the cornstarch mixture (called a slurry), and whisk until the sauce thickens slightly, about 15 seconds. Add more of the slurry for a thicker sauce. Set aside and keep warm while the ham rests.

Carve the ham, arrange on a platter, and serve with the sauce alongside.