Fresh Salmon Croque Madame

A classic Croque Madame is a grilled cheese sandwich with a fried egg on top. In this version, the soft yolk becomes a delicious sauce for an open-faced sandwich of grilled salmon on a bed of Swiss chard.

• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 small bunch Swiss chard or other leafy green, washed, dried
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 2 1/2-inch-thick slices country hearth bread
• 1 clove garlic, peeled
• 2 Tbs. cream cheese
• 1 Tbs. capers, drained and rinsed
• Two 4-oz. salmon fillets, skin removed
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 large eggs

Heat 1 Tbs. of the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the Swiss chard and cook until wilted and soft, stirring occasionally, 5 to 7 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set aside to cool slightly.

Heat a panini or sandwich press according to the manufacturer's instructions. Brush both sides of each slice of bread with 1 Tbs. of the olive oil. Place on the press, pull the top down, and cook until toasted, 1 to 2 minutes. Rub one side of each toasted slice with the garlic clove. Spread 1 Tbs. of cream cheese on each slice. Sprinkle with the capers.

Brush the salmon on both sides with the remaining 2 Tbs. olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place the salmon on the press, pull the top down, and cook until seared and cooked to your desired degree of doneness, at least 3 minutes.

While the salmon is cooking, heat the butter in a medium skillet. Carefully crack the eggs into the skillet, taking care not to break the yolks. Sprinkle 1 tsp. water onto each egg and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover the skillet and cook on medium-high heat until the whites are firm and the yolks are still soft, 2 to 3 minutes.

Arrange the cooked greens on top of the cream cheese, place a salmon fillet on top of each bed of greens, and slide a fried egg on top of each piece of salmon. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Creamy Parmesan Swiss Chard Gratin

I like the variety of Swiss chard called "Bright Lights," which has yellow and pink stalks, but any Swiss chard will work fine. The chard leaves just need wilting for this gratin, but be sure to sauté the stems until lightly browned; this softens their flavor.

• 1/2 cup toasted or stale coarse breadcrumbs
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter; more for coating the gratin pan
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 2 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
• 3 strips bacon (about 2-1/2 oz.)
• 1 lb. (about 1 bunch) Swiss chard, washed and drained, stems removed and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices, leaves cut into 1/2-inch wide ribbons (to yield about 2-3/4 cups stems and 7 to 8 cups leaves)
• 1/3 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Heat the oven to 400ºF. Butter a shallow 5- or 6-cup ceramic gratin dish. Melt 1 Tbs. of the butter and toss it with the breadcrumbs; set aside.

In a medium saucepan, bring the cream and garlic to a boil (watch that it doesn't boil over), immediately lower the heat, and simmer vigorously for 5 minutes; the cream should be reduced to about 3/4 cup. Take the pan off the heat and remove the garlic cloves with a slotted spoon. Let the cream cool slightly, stirring occasionally to loosen. Season it with a few grinds of fresh pepper and 1/4 tsp. of the salt.

Meanwhile, in a large (12-inch) nonstick skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until crisp and browned. With tongs, transfer it to paper towels; crumble when cool. Leave the bacon fat in pan (if there's more than 2 Tbs., drain a little off). Add the remaining 1 Tbs. butter to the skillet and let it melt. Add the chard stems and sauté them over medium to medium-high heat until they're somewhat softened and browned on the edges, about 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium, add the chard leaves and toss them with the contents of the skillet. Season them with the remaining 1/4 tsp. salt. (You can add the leaves in two batches for easier handling.) Sauté until all the leaves are wilted, about 2 minutes. Use tongs to transfer the contents of the pan to the gratin dish (leave behind any excess liquid in the sauté pan), spreading them evenly.

Sauté sliced chard stems first until tender; then add the leaves and wilt them.

Sprinkle the crumbled bacon and then the cheese over the chard. Pour the seasoned cream over all and top with the buttered breadcrumbs. Bake for 25 minutes; the gratin will be brown and bubbly. Let rest for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.

Sautéed Swiss Chard

• 3 lb. Swiss chard (from about 3 bunches)
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped garlic (from about 6 cloves)
• Kosher salt
• Pinch crushed red pepper flakes

Fill a sink with cold water and wash the Swiss chard to remove any grit. Transfer to paper towels and let dry for a couple of minutes (it's fine if a little water clings to the leaves).

Remove the thick part of each stem by cutting a V-shaped notch partway into the leaf. Split each leaf in half lengthwise by slicing down the center rib. Stack the halved leaves (in batches if necessary) and cut them in half crosswise to get 4- to 6-inch pieces.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat for 1 minute. Working in batches, pile the Swiss chard into the pan, turning and tossing gently until the leaves begin to wilt and turn glossy. Add a new batch of leaves as the previous batch wilts and makes room for more.

When all the Swiss chard is wilted, sprinkle in the garlic and a little salt and toss well. Lower the heat to medium low, cover, and cook for 4 minutes. Remove the lid, raise the heat to high, add the red pepper flakes, and continue to cook for 2 to 3 minutes so that much of the liquid evaporates; the leaves should be tender but not overly soft. Serve immediately.

Warm Salad of Autumn Greens with Plum Vinaigrette

Use any combination of hardy greens you like.

For the plum vinaigrette:

• 5 Tbs. Damson plum or beach plum preserves
• 1/4 cup Champagne vinegar or white-wine vinegar
• 1 Tbs. Dijon-style mustard
• 1 cup canola or peanut oil
• 1 Tbs. chopped shallots
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

For the greens:

• One 10-oz. bag spinach or 1 lb. fresh loose spinach

• 1 bunch red or green Swiss chard or young kale
• 1 large or 2 small heads frisée or escarole
• 3 to 4 Tbs. olive oil or peanut oil
• 3/4 cup (about 3 oz.) roasted, peeled hazelnuts, roughly chopped, or 1 lb. chestnuts, roasted, peeled, and quartered

Up to one week ahead:

In a blender or food processor, pulse the preserves, vinegar, and mustard until smooth. Continue pulsing and slowly add the oil until incorporated. Add the shallots, salt, and pepper; pulse briefly. Refrigerate in a bottle.

Up to four days ahead:

Stem the spinach and chard (or kale), and cut the chard or kale into strips about 1/2 inch wide. Cut the bottoms off the frisée or escarole. Mix all the greens, wash thoroughly, and spin dry. Wrap loosely in damp (not wet) paper towels and store in sealed zip-top bags. They should stay fresh this way for 5 days.

Just before serving:

Bring the dressing to room temperature. In a very large sauté pan (preferably nonstick), heat about 1 Tbs. of the olive oil over medium-high heat and add one-third of the greens, one-third of the nuts, and a bit of salt and pepper. Sauté 1 to 2 minutes, stirring all the time, until the leaves are slightly wilted. Drizzle a little dressing on them, toss lightly with tongs, and transfer the nuts and greens to a serving platter. Repeat with the remaining greens in two more batches, adding only enough olive oil to the pan as needed to sauté.

Sirloin Steaks with Garlicky Swiss Chard

Fresh Swiss chard puts a summery spin on this basic seared steak. It's perfect for a quick weeknight dinner: after the steaks sear, they finish cooking in the oven while you cook the chard.

• 2 lb. sirloin steak, 1 inch thick
• 1-1/2 tsp. dried rosemary, coarsely chopped
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 3/4 cup dry red wine, such as merlot
• 4 large cloves garlic, minced
• 2 Tbs. red wine vinegar
• 1 tsp. granulated sugar
• 1/2 tsp. Dijon mustard
• 2 large bunches Swiss chard (about 1-1/2 lb. total), stems very thinly sliced and leaves roughly chopped
• 2 oz. Pecorino Romano, thinly shaved with a vegetable peeler (1 cup; optional)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Trim and cut the steak into 4 portions. Season the steaks all over with the rosemary, 2 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper.


Heat 1 Tbs. of the oil in a large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high heat. Working in 2 batches if necessary, arrange the steaks in the skillet in a single layer and cook, turning once, until nicely browned, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Remove the skillet from the heat, transfer the steaks to a rimmed baking sheet, and roast until medium rare (130°F to 135°F), 4 to 6 minutes more. Set the steaks aside to rest.


Meanwhile, return the skillet to medium-high heat. Carefully add the wine and cook, scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon, until reduced by about half, 3 to 4 minutes.


Add the garlic to the skillet and cook until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Whisk in the vinegar, sugar, mustard, 1/4 tsp. salt, and 1/8 tsp. pepper. Drizzle in the remaining 3 Tbs. oil while whisking constantly.


Add the chard stems and cook, stirring occasionally, until beginning to soften, 5 minutes. Add the chard leaves in batches and cook, tossing, until the leaves are wilted enough to fit comfortably in the skillet, about 2 minutes. Cover the skillet and cook, tossing once or twice, until just tender, about 5 minutes.


Transfer the steaks to plates and top with the chard. Sprinkle with the Pecorino Romano, if using, and serve.

Rainbow Chard with Pine Nuts, Parmesan, and Basil

This easy sauté makes delicious use of the ingredients that go into pesto. Before you start, watch the Test Kitchen's video to get a few quick tips on trimming chard.

• 13 to 14 oz. Rainbow chard (about 1 large bunch)
• 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 Tbs. pine nuts
• Kosher salt
• 1 Tbs. minced garlic
• 1 Tbs. cold unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
• 1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh basil leaves (8 to 10 large)

Pull or cut the stems from the chard leaves. Cut or rip the leaves into 2- to 3-inch pieces and wash and dry them well. Rinse the stems and slice them crosswise 1/4 inch thick.


In a 12-inch nonstick stir-fry pan or skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the pine nuts and cook, stirring constantly, until lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the pine nuts to a plate, leaving behind as much oil as possible.


Return the pan to medium-high heat, add the chard stems and a pinch of salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until shrunken and beginning to brown lightly, 6 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook just until fragrant, about 15 seconds. Add the chard leaves and 1/4 tsp. salt. Toss with tongs until just wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. (If using a skillet, you may need to add the chard in batches, letting the first batch wilt before adding more.) Remove the pan from the heat, add the cold butter pieces and stir just until the butter has melted.


Using tongs, immediately transfer about half of the leaves and stems to a serving plate and arrange. Sprinkle on half of the Parmigiano, basil, and pine nuts. Layer on the remaining leaves, stems, and pan juices, and garnish with the remaining cheese, basil, and pine nuts. Serve immediately.

Rainbow Chard with Lemon, Fennel, and Parmigiano

Don’t throw those chard stems away—cooking them with the chard leaves gives this recipe lots of extra flavor and texture.

• 4 large bunches rainbow or Swiss chard (about 3-1/2 lb.)
• Kosher salt
• 2 cups thinly sliced fennel bulb, plus 1/2 cup chopped fronds (fronds optional)
• 2 medium lemons
• 6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 6 medium cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup freshly shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano (shave with a vegetable peeler)

Cut the chard stalks off just below each leaf and thinly slice the stalks. Chop the chard leaves into large pieces. Keep the stalks and leaves separate.

Bring a large, wide pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the sliced fennel and chard stalks and cook for 3 minutes. Add the chard leaves and cook until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain well in a colander. (The chard can be cooked to this point up to 3 hours ahead.) Rinse and dry the pot.

Finely grate the zest from the lemons and set aside. Cut the top and bottom ends off the lemons, then stand each on a cut end and slice off the peel to expose the flesh. (Try to remove all of the bitter white pith.) Cut the lemon segments from the membranes, letting them drop into a small bowl.

Heat the oil and garlic in the pot over medium heat. When the garlic begins to sizzle, add the fennel fronds (if using) and the lemon segments and cook, stirring often, for 1 minute. Add the chard leaves and stems and fennel and cook, stirring, until heated through. Stir in the lemon zest and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve, sprinkled with the Parmigiano.

Fresh Salmon Croque Madame

A classic Croque Madame is a grilled cheese sandwich with a fried egg on top. In this version, the soft yolk becomes a delicious sauce for an open-faced sandwich of grilled salmon on a bed of Swiss chard.

• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 small bunch Swiss chard or other leafy green, washed, dried
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 2 1/2-inch-thick slices country hearth bread
• 1 clove garlic, peeled
• 2 Tbs. cream cheese
• 1 Tbs. capers, drained and rinsed
• Two 4-oz. salmon fillets, skin removed
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 large eggs

Heat 1 Tbs. of the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the Swiss chard and cook until wilted and soft, stirring occasionally, 5 to 7 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set aside to cool slightly.

Heat a panini or sandwich press according to the manufacturer's instructions. Brush both sides of each slice of bread with 1 Tbs. of the olive oil. Place on the press, pull the top down, and cook until toasted, 1 to 2 minutes. Rub one side of each toasted slice with the garlic clove. Spread 1 Tbs. of cream cheese on each slice. Sprinkle with the capers.

Brush the salmon on both sides with the remaining 2 Tbs. olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place the salmon on the press, pull the top down, and cook until seared and cooked to your desired degree of doneness, at least 3 minutes.

While the salmon is cooking, heat the butter in a medium skillet. Carefully crack the eggs into the skillet, taking care not to break the yolks. Sprinkle 1 tsp. water onto each egg and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover the skillet and cook on medium-high heat until the whites are firm and the yolks are still soft, 2 to 3 minutes.

Arrange the cooked greens on top of the cream cheese, place a salmon fillet on top of each bed of greens, and slide a fried egg on top of each piece of salmon. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Swiss Chard and Ricotta Dumplings

Don’t let the Swiss chard fool you; there’s very little that’s healthy about this dish from Portland, Oregon, chef Christopher Israel. But who cares about healthy? What you get if you make this is a bowlful of green-flecked, cheesy dumplings swimming in a pool of butter. It’s also a fun dish to make because so much of it is based on your own sense of touch. Be sure to drain the ricotta cheese overnight before you start the dumplings (if you don’t, the dumplings will require more flour, and they’ll be heavier).

• 2 cups ricotta cheese, set over a strainer lined with cheesecloth and drained overnight in the refrigerator
• 1 cup blanched Swiss chard, squeezed dry and chopped
• 2 cups grated Parmesan cheese
• Kosher salt
• A pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
• 2 eggs, plus 3 egg yolks
• 1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling
• 3 to 4 Tbs. unsalted butter

In a large bowl, combine the ricotta, chard, Parmesan, 2 Tbs. salt, the nutmeg, eggs, and yolks with a large rubber spatula. Mix as thoroughly as possible before adding the flour: once you add the flour you want to mix it as little as possible or the dumplings will be tough and gluey.

Add the flour 1/4 cup at a time and work it in gently with the rubber spatula. Study the dough as you go: is it very sticky? You don’t want it super dry but you want to be able to roll it later to form the dumplings. Stop adding flour when the dough reaches a rollable texture.

Allow the dough to rest for 30 minutes at room temperature (during which time it will continue to stiffen).

When you’re ready to roll the dumplings, flour a board and your hands. Remove the dough to the board and sprinkle some flour on it. Roll the dough into a long rod, approximately 1/2 inch thick. Cut the rod into 1-inch-long dumplings.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season lightly with salt. Drop the dumplings in and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until they float.

Melt the butter in a medium-size pan and lift the dumplings from the boiling water into the pan to finish, tossing them gently. Serve immediately.

Creamy Parmesan Swiss Chard Gratin

I like the variety of Swiss chard called "Bright Lights," which has yellow and pink stalks, but any Swiss chard will work fine. The chard leaves just need wilting for this gratin, but be sure to sauté the stems until lightly browned; this softens their flavor.

• 1/2 cup toasted or stale coarse breadcrumbs
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter; more for coating the gratin pan
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 2 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
• 3 strips bacon (about 2-1/2 oz.)
• 1 lb. (about 1 bunch) Swiss chard, washed and drained, stems removed and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices, leaves cut into 1/2-inch wide ribbons (to yield about 2-3/4 cups stems and 7 to 8 cups leaves)
• 1/3 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Heat the oven to 400ºF. Butter a shallow 5- or 6-cup ceramic gratin dish. Melt 1 Tbs. of the butter and toss it with the breadcrumbs; set aside.

In a medium saucepan, bring the cream and garlic to a boil (watch that it doesn't boil over), immediately lower the heat, and simmer vigorously for 5 minutes; the cream should be reduced to about 3/4 cup. Take the pan off the heat and remove the garlic cloves with a slotted spoon. Let the cream cool slightly, stirring occasionally to loosen. Season it with a few grinds of fresh pepper and 1/4 tsp. of the salt.

Meanwhile, in a large (12-inch) nonstick skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until crisp and browned. With tongs, transfer it to paper towels; crumble when cool. Leave the bacon fat in pan (if there's more than 2 Tbs., drain a little off). Add the remaining 1 Tbs. butter to the skillet and let it melt. Add the chard stems and sauté them over medium to medium-high heat until they're somewhat softened and browned on the edges, about 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium, add the chard leaves and toss them with the contents of the skillet. Season them with the remaining 1/4 tsp. salt. (You can add the leaves in two batches for easier handling.) Sauté until all the leaves are wilted, about 2 minutes. Use tongs to transfer the contents of the pan to the gratin dish (leave behind any excess liquid in the sauté pan), spreading them evenly.

Sauté sliced chard stems first until tender; then add the leaves and wilt them.

Sprinkle the crumbled bacon and then the cheese over the chard. Pour the seasoned cream over all and top with the buttered breadcrumbs. Bake for 25 minutes; the gratin will be brown and bubbly. Let rest for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.

Chicken Soup with Barley, Mushrooms, and Greens

A little sherry vinegar adds just the right amount of acid to brighten up this earthy soup.

• 1-1/2 Tbs. olive oil or canola oil
• 2 cups finely chopped onion
• 2 cups finely chopped celery
• Kosher salt
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• 3 quarts Homemade Chicken Broth or lower-salt chicken broth
• 3-1/2 to 4 cups shredded, cooked chicken
• 3 cups cooked-until-barely-tender barley 
• 3/4 pound Swiss chard, stemmed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 4 oz. oyster mushrooms, stemmed and sliced
• 4 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced
• 1 tsp. to 2 Tbs. sherry vinegar
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano for serving (optional)  

Tip:

If you made the chicken broth yourself, use the meat from that bird;
otherwise you can use the meat from a store-bought rotisserie chicken.

Heat the oil over medium-high heat in a large (at least 8-quart), heavy-duty pot or Dutch oven. Add the onion, celery, and 1/2 Tbs. salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened and lightly browned in places, 4 to 6 minutes. Add the thyme and cook, stirring, until fragrant, 30 seconds.

Add the broth and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are completely tender, 20 to 30 minutes. 

Stir in the reserved shredded chicken, barley, chard, and mushrooms. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until all are tender and the flavors meld, 5 to 10 minutes.

Stir in 1 tsp. of the vinegar. Taste, and add more vinegar, 1 tsp. at a time, if needed, up to 2 Tbs. Season with salt and pepper to taste and garnish each bowl with a 1 Tbs. of the grated cheese, if you like. 

Fresh Salmon Croque Madame

A classic Croque Madame is a grilled cheese sandwich with a fried egg on top. In this version, the soft yolk becomes a delicious sauce for an open-faced sandwich of grilled salmon on a bed of Swiss chard.

• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 small bunch Swiss chard or other leafy green, washed, dried
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 2 1/2-inch-thick slices country hearth bread
• 1 clove garlic, peeled
• 2 Tbs. cream cheese
• 1 Tbs. capers, drained and rinsed
• Two 4-oz. salmon fillets, skin removed
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 large eggs

Heat 1 Tbs. of the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the Swiss chard and cook until wilted and soft, stirring occasionally, 5 to 7 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set aside to cool slightly.

Heat a panini or sandwich press according to the manufacturer's instructions. Brush both sides of each slice of bread with 1 Tbs. of the olive oil. Place on the press, pull the top down, and cook until toasted, 1 to 2 minutes. Rub one side of each toasted slice with the garlic clove. Spread 1 Tbs. of cream cheese on each slice. Sprinkle with the capers.

Brush the salmon on both sides with the remaining 2 Tbs. olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place the salmon on the press, pull the top down, and cook until seared and cooked to your desired degree of doneness, at least 3 minutes.

While the salmon is cooking, heat the butter in a medium skillet. Carefully crack the eggs into the skillet, taking care not to break the yolks. Sprinkle 1 tsp. water onto each egg and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover the skillet and cook on medium-high heat until the whites are firm and the yolks are still soft, 2 to 3 minutes.

Arrange the cooked greens on top of the cream cheese, place a salmon fillet on top of each bed of greens, and slide a fried egg on top of each piece of salmon. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Swiss Chard and Ricotta Dumplings

Don’t let the Swiss chard fool you; there’s very little that’s healthy about this dish from Portland, Oregon, chef Christopher Israel. But who cares about healthy? What you get if you make this is a bowlful of green-flecked, cheesy dumplings swimming in a pool of butter. It’s also a fun dish to make because so much of it is based on your own sense of touch. Be sure to drain the ricotta cheese overnight before you start the dumplings (if you don’t, the dumplings will require more flour, and they’ll be heavier).

• 2 cups ricotta cheese, set over a strainer lined with cheesecloth and drained overnight in the refrigerator
• 1 cup blanched Swiss chard, squeezed dry and chopped
• 2 cups grated Parmesan cheese
• Kosher salt
• A pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
• 2 eggs, plus 3 egg yolks
• 1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling
• 3 to 4 Tbs. unsalted butter

In a large bowl, combine the ricotta, chard, Parmesan, 2 Tbs. salt, the nutmeg, eggs, and yolks with a large rubber spatula. Mix as thoroughly as possible before adding the flour: once you add the flour you want to mix it as little as possible or the dumplings will be tough and gluey.

Add the flour 1/4 cup at a time and work it in gently with the rubber spatula. Study the dough as you go: is it very sticky? You don’t want it super dry but you want to be able to roll it later to form the dumplings. Stop adding flour when the dough reaches a rollable texture.

Allow the dough to rest for 30 minutes at room temperature (during which time it will continue to stiffen).

When you’re ready to roll the dumplings, flour a board and your hands. Remove the dough to the board and sprinkle some flour on it. Roll the dough into a long rod, approximately 1/2 inch thick. Cut the rod into 1-inch-long dumplings.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season lightly with salt. Drop the dumplings in and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until they float.

Melt the butter in a medium-size pan and lift the dumplings from the boiling water into the pan to finish, tossing them gently. Serve immediately.

Warm Salad of Autumn Greens with Plum Vinaigrette

Use any combination of hardy greens you like.

For the plum vinaigrette:

• 5 Tbs. Damson plum or beach plum preserves
• 1/4 cup Champagne vinegar or white-wine vinegar
• 1 Tbs. Dijon-style mustard
• 1 cup canola or peanut oil
• 1 Tbs. chopped shallots
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

For the greens:

• One 10-oz. bag spinach or 1 lb. fresh loose spinach

• 1 bunch red or green Swiss chard or young kale
• 1 large or 2 small heads frisée or escarole
• 3 to 4 Tbs. olive oil or peanut oil
• 3/4 cup (about 3 oz.) roasted, peeled hazelnuts, roughly chopped, or 1 lb. chestnuts, roasted, peeled, and quartered

Up to one week ahead:

In a blender or food processor, pulse the preserves, vinegar, and mustard until smooth. Continue pulsing and slowly add the oil until incorporated. Add the shallots, salt, and pepper; pulse briefly. Refrigerate in a bottle.

Up to four days ahead:

Stem the spinach and chard (or kale), and cut the chard or kale into strips about 1/2 inch wide. Cut the bottoms off the frisée or escarole. Mix all the greens, wash thoroughly, and spin dry. Wrap loosely in damp (not wet) paper towels and store in sealed zip-top bags. They should stay fresh this way for 5 days.

Just before serving:

Bring the dressing to room temperature. In a very large sauté pan (preferably nonstick), heat about 1 Tbs. of the olive oil over medium-high heat and add one-third of the greens, one-third of the nuts, and a bit of salt and pepper. Sauté 1 to 2 minutes, stirring all the time, until the leaves are slightly wilted. Drizzle a little dressing on them, toss lightly with tongs, and transfer the nuts and greens to a serving platter. Repeat with the remaining greens in two more batches, adding only enough olive oil to the pan as needed to sauté.

Swiss Chard, Sweet Potato, and Feta Tart in a Teff Crust

Adding teff flour to this tart’s crust gives it the texture of shortbread and a rich, nutty flavor. The filling is vegetable heaven—chard, sweet potatoes, and red onions—topped off with a salty sprinkle of feta. Serve with a green salad to round out the meal.

For the crust

• 5-1/2 oz. (1 cup) teff flour
• 4-1/2 oz. (1 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 3/4 tsp. table salt
• 6 oz. (3/4 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 4 to 5 Tbs. ice water

For the filling

• 1-1/2 lb. sweet potatoes (2 medium)
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 medium red onions, peeled, halved, and sliced lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slices (4 cups)
• Sea salt
• 2 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
• 3 medium cloves garlic, chopped
• 1 large bunch Swiss chard (15 oz.), thick stems removed, greens roughly chopped (8 cups)
• 8 oz. feta, crumbled (1-1/3cups)
• Crushed red pepper flakes
• 2 large eggs
• Freshly ground black pepper

Make the crust

Combine both flours and the salt in a food processor; pulse to combine. Add the butter and pulse until it breaks down to the size of small peas. Sprinkle 4 Tbs. of the ice water over the mixture and pulse again until the pastry just holds together (if it’s too dry to hold together, pulse in tiny amounts of the remaining water until it holds). Transfer the dough to a large sheet of plastic wrap, and using the plastic as an aid, shape it into a thick disk. Wrap the dough in the plastic and refrigerate for about 30 minutes.


Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.


Unwrap and roll the dough on a lightly floured surface into a 14-inch circle. (If the pastry cracks, just press it back together.) Wrap the pastry around the rolling pin and unroll it over an 11-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Without stretching the dough, very gently work it into the pan, pressing the pastry against the sides. Roll the pin over the pan to trim the excess dough. Use the scraps as needed to make the edge even and about 1/4 inch thick (at the narrowest points). Press gently all around the edge so the dough comes up slightly above the rim of the pan.


Prick the bottom of the crust all over with a fork, line with parchment, and fill with dried beans or pie weights. Put the tart pan on a baking sheet and bake until the edge looks dry, about 10 minutes. Carefully remove the beans and parchment and bake until the bottom is just set and looks dry, 5 to 7 minutes more. Cool on the baking sheet on a wire rack.

Make the filling

Scrub the sweet potatoes, poke them once or twice with a fork, and put them on a small foil-lined baking sheet. Roast until tender when pierced, 50 to 60 minutes. Cool, peel, and cut into 3/4-inch dice.


While the sweet potatoes are roasting, heat 2 Tbs. of the olive oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and a generous pinch of salt; cook, stirring, until the onions wilt and develop dark-brown charred spots, about 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium low, cover the pan, and stir frequently, until softened and caramelized, 8 to 9 minutes more. Add 1 Tbs. of balsamic vinegar and stir until it evaporates and glazes the onions.


Transfer the onions to a small bowl and wipe out the pan. Heat the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil in the pan over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant and just beginning to color, 1 to 2 minutes. Increase the heat to medium high, add the chopped chard and a pinch of salt, and toss over medium-high heat until the chard is completely wilted, about 4 minutes. Sprinkle the remaining 1 Tbs. balsamic vinegar over the chard and toss it until the vinegar cooks away, about 1 minute. Transfer to a large bowl.


Add the diced sweet potatoes, about three-quarters of the cheese, and a pinch of crushed red pepper to the chard; toss gently. In a small bowl, whisk the eggs with a pinch of salt and pepper and add the eggs to the chard mixture.

Bake the tart

Spread the filling evenly in the tart shell and scatter the remaining cheese on top. Bake the tart on the baking sheet until the cheese is nicely browned, 25 to 30 minutes.


Spoon the balsamic onions over the top of the tart, allowing bits of cheese to peek through here and there. Let the tart cool slightly, about 10 minutes; then remove the rim of the pan. Slice and serve the tart warm or at room temperature.

Swiss Chard, Sweet Potato, and Feta Tart in a Teff Crust

Adding teff flour to this tart’s crust gives it the texture of shortbread and a rich, nutty flavor. The filling is vegetable heaven—chard, sweet potatoes, and red onions—topped off with a salty sprinkle of feta. Serve with a green salad to round out the meal.

For the crust

• 5-1/2 oz. (1 cup) teff flour
• 4-1/2 oz. (1 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 3/4 tsp. table salt
• 6 oz. (3/4 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 4 to 5 Tbs. ice water

For the filling

• 1-1/2 lb. sweet potatoes (2 medium)
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 medium red onions, peeled, halved, and sliced lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slices (4 cups)
• Sea salt
• 2 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
• 3 medium cloves garlic, chopped
• 1 large bunch Swiss chard (15 oz.), thick stems removed, greens roughly chopped (8 cups)
• 8 oz. feta, crumbled (1-1/3cups)
• Crushed red pepper flakes
• 2 large eggs
• Freshly ground black pepper

Make the crust

Combine both flours and the salt in a food processor; pulse to combine. Add the butter and pulse until it breaks down to the size of small peas. Sprinkle 4 Tbs. of the ice water over the mixture and pulse again until the pastry just holds together (if it’s too dry to hold together, pulse in tiny amounts of the remaining water until it holds). Transfer the dough to a large sheet of plastic wrap, and using the plastic as an aid, shape it into a thick disk. Wrap the dough in the plastic and refrigerate for about 30 minutes.


Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.


Unwrap and roll the dough on a lightly floured surface into a 14-inch circle. (If the pastry cracks, just press it back together.) Wrap the pastry around the rolling pin and unroll it over an 11-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Without stretching the dough, very gently work it into the pan, pressing the pastry against the sides. Roll the pin over the pan to trim the excess dough. Use the scraps as needed to make the edge even and about 1/4 inch thick (at the narrowest points). Press gently all around the edge so the dough comes up slightly above the rim of the pan.


Prick the bottom of the crust all over with a fork, line with parchment, and fill with dried beans or pie weights. Put the tart pan on a baking sheet and bake until the edge looks dry, about 10 minutes. Carefully remove the beans and parchment and bake until the bottom is just set and looks dry, 5 to 7 minutes more. Cool on the baking sheet on a wire rack.

Make the filling

Scrub the sweet potatoes, poke them once or twice with a fork, and put them on a small foil-lined baking sheet. Roast until tender when pierced, 50 to 60 minutes. Cool, peel, and cut into 3/4-inch dice.


While the sweet potatoes are roasting, heat 2 Tbs. of the olive oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and a generous pinch of salt; cook, stirring, until the onions wilt and develop dark-brown charred spots, about 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium low, cover the pan, and stir frequently, until softened and caramelized, 8 to 9 minutes more. Add 1 Tbs. of balsamic vinegar and stir until it evaporates and glazes the onions.


Transfer the onions to a small bowl and wipe out the pan. Heat the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil in the pan over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant and just beginning to color, 1 to 2 minutes. Increase the heat to medium high, add the chopped chard and a pinch of salt, and toss over medium-high heat until the chard is completely wilted, about 4 minutes. Sprinkle the remaining 1 Tbs. balsamic vinegar over the chard and toss it until the vinegar cooks away, about 1 minute. Transfer to a large bowl.


Add the diced sweet potatoes, about three-quarters of the cheese, and a pinch of crushed red pepper to the chard; toss gently. In a small bowl, whisk the eggs with a pinch of salt and pepper and add the eggs to the chard mixture.

Bake the tart

Spread the filling evenly in the tart shell and scatter the remaining cheese on top. Bake the tart on the baking sheet until the cheese is nicely browned, 25 to 30 minutes.


Spoon the balsamic onions over the top of the tart, allowing bits of cheese to peek through here and there. Let the tart cool slightly, about 10 minutes; then remove the rim of the pan. Slice and serve the tart warm or at room temperature.

Sirloin Steaks with Garlicky Swiss Chard

Fresh Swiss chard puts a summery spin on this basic seared steak. It's perfect for a quick weeknight dinner: after the steaks sear, they finish cooking in the oven while you cook the chard.

• 2 lb. sirloin steak, 1 inch thick
• 1-1/2 tsp. dried rosemary, coarsely chopped
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 3/4 cup dry red wine, such as merlot
• 4 large cloves garlic, minced
• 2 Tbs. red wine vinegar
• 1 tsp. granulated sugar
• 1/2 tsp. Dijon mustard
• 2 large bunches Swiss chard (about 1-1/2 lb. total), stems very thinly sliced and leaves roughly chopped
• 2 oz. Pecorino Romano, thinly shaved with a vegetable peeler (1 cup; optional)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Trim and cut the steak into 4 portions. Season the steaks all over with the rosemary, 2 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper.


Heat 1 Tbs. of the oil in a large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high heat. Working in 2 batches if necessary, arrange the steaks in the skillet in a single layer and cook, turning once, until nicely browned, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Remove the skillet from the heat, transfer the steaks to a rimmed baking sheet, and roast until medium rare (130°F to 135°F), 4 to 6 minutes more. Set the steaks aside to rest.


Meanwhile, return the skillet to medium-high heat. Carefully add the wine and cook, scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon, until reduced by about half, 3 to 4 minutes.


Add the garlic to the skillet and cook until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Whisk in the vinegar, sugar, mustard, 1/4 tsp. salt, and 1/8 tsp. pepper. Drizzle in the remaining 3 Tbs. oil while whisking constantly.


Add the chard stems and cook, stirring occasionally, until beginning to soften, 5 minutes. Add the chard leaves in batches and cook, tossing, until the leaves are wilted enough to fit comfortably in the skillet, about 2 minutes. Cover the skillet and cook, tossing once or twice, until just tender, about 5 minutes.


Transfer the steaks to plates and top with the chard. Sprinkle with the Pecorino Romano, if using, and serve.

Fresh Salmon Croque Madame

A classic Croque Madame is a grilled cheese sandwich with a fried egg on top. In this version, the soft yolk becomes a delicious sauce for an open-faced sandwich of grilled salmon on a bed of Swiss chard.

• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 small bunch Swiss chard or other leafy green, washed, dried
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 2 1/2-inch-thick slices country hearth bread
• 1 clove garlic, peeled
• 2 Tbs. cream cheese
• 1 Tbs. capers, drained and rinsed
• Two 4-oz. salmon fillets, skin removed
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 large eggs

Heat 1 Tbs. of the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the Swiss chard and cook until wilted and soft, stirring occasionally, 5 to 7 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set aside to cool slightly.

Heat a panini or sandwich press according to the manufacturer's instructions. Brush both sides of each slice of bread with 1 Tbs. of the olive oil. Place on the press, pull the top down, and cook until toasted, 1 to 2 minutes. Rub one side of each toasted slice with the garlic clove. Spread 1 Tbs. of cream cheese on each slice. Sprinkle with the capers.

Brush the salmon on both sides with the remaining 2 Tbs. olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place the salmon on the press, pull the top down, and cook until seared and cooked to your desired degree of doneness, at least 3 minutes.

While the salmon is cooking, heat the butter in a medium skillet. Carefully crack the eggs into the skillet, taking care not to break the yolks. Sprinkle 1 tsp. water onto each egg and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover the skillet and cook on medium-high heat until the whites are firm and the yolks are still soft, 2 to 3 minutes.

Arrange the cooked greens on top of the cream cheese, place a salmon fillet on top of each bed of greens, and slide a fried egg on top of each piece of salmon. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Warm Salad of Autumn Greens with Plum Vinaigrette

Use any combination of hardy greens you like.

For the plum vinaigrette:

• 5 Tbs. Damson plum or beach plum preserves
• 1/4 cup Champagne vinegar or white-wine vinegar
• 1 Tbs. Dijon-style mustard
• 1 cup canola or peanut oil
• 1 Tbs. chopped shallots
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

For the greens:

• One 10-oz. bag spinach or 1 lb. fresh loose spinach

• 1 bunch red or green Swiss chard or young kale
• 1 large or 2 small heads frisée or escarole
• 3 to 4 Tbs. olive oil or peanut oil
• 3/4 cup (about 3 oz.) roasted, peeled hazelnuts, roughly chopped, or 1 lb. chestnuts, roasted, peeled, and quartered

Up to one week ahead:

In a blender or food processor, pulse the preserves, vinegar, and mustard until smooth. Continue pulsing and slowly add the oil until incorporated. Add the shallots, salt, and pepper; pulse briefly. Refrigerate in a bottle.

Up to four days ahead:

Stem the spinach and chard (or kale), and cut the chard or kale into strips about 1/2 inch wide. Cut the bottoms off the frisée or escarole. Mix all the greens, wash thoroughly, and spin dry. Wrap loosely in damp (not wet) paper towels and store in sealed zip-top bags. They should stay fresh this way for 5 days.

Just before serving:

Bring the dressing to room temperature. In a very large sauté pan (preferably nonstick), heat about 1 Tbs. of the olive oil over medium-high heat and add one-third of the greens, one-third of the nuts, and a bit of salt and pepper. Sauté 1 to 2 minutes, stirring all the time, until the leaves are slightly wilted. Drizzle a little dressing on them, toss lightly with tongs, and transfer the nuts and greens to a serving platter. Repeat with the remaining greens in two more batches, adding only enough olive oil to the pan as needed to sauté.