Sautéed Swiss Chard

• 3 lb. Swiss chard (from about 3 bunches)
• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped garlic (from about 6 cloves)
• Kosher salt
• Pinch crushed red pepper flakes

Fill a sink with cold water and wash the Swiss chard to remove any grit. Transfer to paper towels and let dry for a couple of minutes (it's fine if a little water clings to the leaves).

Remove the thick part of each stem by cutting a V-shaped notch partway into the leaf. Split each leaf in half lengthwise by slicing down the center rib. Stack the halved leaves (in batches if necessary) and cut them in half crosswise to get 4- to 6-inch pieces.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat for 1 minute. Working in batches, pile the Swiss chard into the pan, turning and tossing gently until the leaves begin to wilt and turn glossy. Add a new batch of leaves as the previous batch wilts and makes room for more.

When all the Swiss chard is wilted, sprinkle in the garlic and a little salt and toss well. Lower the heat to medium low, cover, and cook for 4 minutes. Remove the lid, raise the heat to high, add the red pepper flakes, and continue to cook for 2 to 3 minutes so that much of the liquid evaporates; the leaves should be tender but not overly soft. Serve immediately.