Chinese Five-Spice-Crusted Duck Breasts

This dish may look impressive, but with only a few simple ingredients, it’s a cinch to pull off.  

• 4 boneless duck breast halves with skin (2 to 2-1/2 lb.)
• 1-1/2 tsp. Chinese five-spice powder
• 3/4 tsp. kosher salt
• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Trim the visible fat and silver-skin from the flesh side of the duck. If the tenderloins are still on the breasts, leave them on. Don’t trim the skin side; simply score the duck skin in a crosshatch pattern to allow the fat to cook out. Mix the five-spice powder with the salt and pepper in a small bowl. Gently rub the duck all over with the mixture.

Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat and put the duck, skin side down, in the skillet. Slowly render the fat from the skin without moving the duck breasts. After 15 minutes, tilt the pan and carefully spoon off as much fat as possible. Cook until the skin is dark golden brown and crisp, about 25 minutes total.

Flip the breasts with a metal spatula (carefully loosen the skin if it’s stuck to the pan). Increase the heat to medium and finish cooking the duck until the second side is golden and the duck is done to your liking, another 3 to 7 minutes, depending on thickness. (An instant-read thermometer should register 135°F for medium doneness, which will still be pink and juicy.)

Transfer the duck breasts to a cutting board and let rest, skin side up, for about 5 minutes before serving either whole or sliced on an angle into medallions.

Chinese Duck and Shiitake Dumplings (Jiao Zi)

Chinese delis sell roasted ducks with glossy, crisp skin and succulent meat, which in these dumplings gets paired with meaty dried shiitakes and crunchy water chestnuts. Half a roast chicken, especially the thighs and legs, makes a fine substitute for the duck.Web extra: Watch Thy Tran’s step-by-step demonstration of how to make the dumplings.

For the dough:

• 6-3/4 oz. (1-1/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more for kneading

For the filling:

• Half a roast duck, preferably Beijing-style
• 8 dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked in hot water for 30 minutes
• 1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
• 6 oz. spinach, washed and trimmed
• 1/4 cup finely chopped water chestnuts
• 2 medium scallions, thinly sliced
• 1-1/2 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
• 1 Tbs. soy sauce
• 1 tsp. cornstarch
• Freshly ground black pepper

To finish the dumplings:

• Kosher salt, as needed (for boiled dumplings)
• Vegetable oil, as needed (for pan-fried dumplings)
• 1 recipe Ginger Vinegar or Scallion-Soy Dipping Sauce

Make the dough:

Pour the flour into a mound on a clean work surface. Make a deep, wide well in the center and pour in 1/2 cup cold water. Stir with your fingers, staying in the center at first and being careful that the water doesn’t breach the wall. Little by little, using your hand and a bench knife, mix in flour from the sides until the dough starts to come together. (Alternatively, put the flour in a medium bowl. Make a well, add the water, and stir first with a spoon and then your hand.) If the dough remains in shreds, sprinkle in additional water, a teaspoon at a time, until it begins to stick together. Don’t add too much water or the dough will be difficult to work.


Knead the dough for 5 minutes to form a smooth, firm, elastic ball. (If you began the dough in a bowl, lightly dust a clean, dry surface with flour before kneading.) The dough should not be sticky and should bounce back when pressed with a fingertip. Divide in half with a bench knife and roll into two 6-inch logs. Sprinkle each log evenly with flour, cover with a clean kitchen towel, and let rest for at least 30 minutes at room temperature before rolling and filling.

Make the filling:

Separate the duck meat from the bones and skin; shred the meat finely by hand. Cut the stems from the mushrooms and discard. Squeeze excess moisture from the caps and chop finely. Transfer the duck and mushrooms to a medium bowl.


In a 12-inch skillet, bring 2 Tbs. of water and the sugar to a boil over high heat. Add the spinach and cook, stirring, until wilted, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Squeeze the excess water from the spinach and transfer to a cutting board to cool. Chop finely.


Stir the spinach, water chestnuts, scallions, ginger, soy sauce, cornstarch, and 1/4 tsp. black pepper into the duck and mushrooms. Transfer to a bowl and let cool.

Cut and roll the dough

Cut each log in half crosswise. Cut each half crosswise into thirds, and then slice each of those pieces into three even coins. You should have 36 pieces of equal size. Toss the pieces in flour to coat evenly and then cover with a clean towel so they don’t dry out.


Using a small rolling pin, roll a piece of dough into a thin 3-inch circle; with the dough in one hand and the pin in the other, roll from the edges toward the center as you rotate the dough. This rolling technique helps create a round with thin edges and a thicker center.

Fill and shape the dumplings:

Tip:

If you have helpers, set up an assembly line and roll out each wrapper, then pass it along to the next person to fill. If you're filling all the dumplings yourself, it's best to roll out several wrappers, and keep them covered with a kitchen towel as you fill them, to prevent them from drying out.

Spoon 1 to 2 tsp. of the filling onto a dough circle, fold it in half, and then if you’re going to boil the dumplings, seal it by pinching along the curved edge. If you’re planning to pan-fry the dumplings for pot stickers, make your first pinch at the center of the curved edge and then pleat toward the center on both sides to create a rounded belly. This wider shape allows the dumplings to sit upright in the pan and form a flat surface for browning.


Repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling. As you work, arrange the filled dumplings in a single layer without touching on large plates, so they don’t stick together.

To cook: either boil the dumplings...

Bring a large (7- to 8-quart) pot of salted water to a boil. Working in 2 or 3 batches to avoid overcrowding, quickly add the dumplings one at a time, making sure they don’t stick to each other. Lower the heat to medium and continue to boil, gently stirring occasionally, until the dumplings float and are cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and serve immediately with your choice of dipping sauce.

...or pan-fry the dumplings:

Heat 2 Tbs. vegetable oil in a heavy-duty 10- or 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Working quickly and in batches if necessary (adding more oil for the second batch if needed), arrange the dumplings belly side down in concentric circles starting from the outer edge. Cook until golden brown on the bottom, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour in about 1/2 cup water or enough to come about a third of the way up the sides of the dumplings, bring to a boil, cover, and cook until all of the water has been absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the lid, reduce the heat to medium, and continue cooking just until the dumplings are dry and crisp on the bottom, 1 to 2 minutes. Loosen the dumplings from the pan with a spatula. Invert the pan over a plate to flip the dumplings, browned side up, onto the plate (or transfer with a spatula). Serve immediately with your choice of dipping sauce.

Pan-Roasted Duck Breasts with Sherry, Honey & Thyme Sauce

You can dress up this dish by adding a few dried figs, if you like. Trim off the stems and, depending on their size, halve or quarter them. Soak the figs in the sherry for 10 minutes and then drain them, reserving the sherry. Add the sherry as directed and add the figs to the sauce along with the broth.

• 4 boneless skin-on duck breast halves (about 2 lb. total)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup dry sherry
• 1/4 cup sherry vinegar
• 1/2 cup homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth
• 2 tsp. honey
• 1 tsp. lightly chopped fresh thyme
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter

Heat the oven to 425ºF. Rinse the duck breasts and pat dry. Trim any silverskin from the meat side of the breasts. Scrape the tendon out of the tender, if it’s still attached, and pat the tender back in place. Trim the edges of the skin so there’s about 1/4 inch overhang . With a sharp chef’s or boning knife, score the skin in a 1/2-inch crosshatch pattern . Try to cut only through the skin and not into the meat. Season the breasts on both sides with salt and pepper.

Heat a large ovenproof sauté pan or skillet (don’t use nonstick) over medium-high heat for 1 minute. Put the duck in the pan, skin side down, and let it sear. As fat collects in the pan, spoon it off once or twice . When the skin turns medium brown, after about 6 minutes, reduce the heat to medium. Continue to cook until much of the fat is rendered from the duck and the skin looks crisp and deep golden brown, another 2 to 4 minutes.

Flip the breasts skin side up, spoon off any remaining fat, and put the pan in the oven. Roast until the duck is cooked to your liking: 3 to 4 minutes for medium rare and 5 to 6 minutes for medium well. To check for doneness, cut into a breast or use an instantread thermometer: 135°F for medium rare, 155°F for medium well.

Transfer the duck to a plate or platter and tent with foil to keep warm. Set the pan on mediumhigh heat and pour in the sherry and sherry vinegar. Immediately scrape the pan with a wooden spoon to release any cooked-on bits. Boil until the liquid has reduced to about 2 Tbs., about 3 minutes. Add the broth, honey, thyme, and 1/4 tsp. salt. Boil until the liquid is reduced by about half, about 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and blend the butter into the sauce by consisteantly stirring or swirling the pan. Slice the duck thinly on an angle, arrange it on heated plates, and spoon the sauce over or around it. Serve right away.

Plum-Glazed Duck Breasts

The elegance of this dish belies its simplicity. The secret is the sweet spiced glaze, made with plum preserves and Asian seasonings. If you can’t find plum preserves, cherry or currant preserves make good substitutes.

• 2 boneless, skin-on duck breast halves (about 1 lb. each)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup plum preserves  
• 1 Tbs. reduced-sodium soy sauce 
• 1/4 tsp. Chinese five-spice powder
• Pinch crushed red pepper flakes  
• 3 scallions, thinly sliced 

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425°F. Trim any excess skin and fat from the duck and score the remaining skin and fat underneath in a 1-inch diamond pattern, taking care not to cut the flesh. Pat the duck dry and season generously with salt and pepper.

Heat a 12-inch heavy-duty skillet over medium-high heat. Put the duck in the skillet skin side down, reduce the heat to medium low, and render the fat until only a thin, crisp layer of skin remains, about 8 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the preserves, soy sauce, five-spice powder, and red pepper flakes.

Turn the duck over, carefully spoon off most of the fat from the skillet, and brush the preserves mixture over the breasts.

Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of a breast registers 135°F for medium rare, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the duck to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, tilt the skillet and spoon off as much fat from the pan juice as possible. Slice the duck diagonally into 1/4-inch slices. Arrange on plates and spoon the pan juice over. Sprinkle with the scallions and serve. 

Roasted Ducks with Tangerine-Hoisin Glaze

Rubbing the ducks with a mix of garlic, tangerine zest, five-spice powder, and coriander and then refrigerating for a day or two adds flavor and helps the skin crisp during roasting.

For the ducks

• 4 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 4 tsp. finely grated tangerine zest
• 2-1/2 tsp. coriander seed
• 2-1/2 tsp. five-spice powder
• Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
• 2 Pekin (Long Island) ducks (5 to 6 lb. each), giblets discarded

For the glaze

• 3 Tbs. hoisin sauce
• 2 Tbs. orange liqueur, such as Grand Marnier or Triple Sec
• 1 Tbs. honey
• 1 Tbs. fresh tangerine juice
• 1 tsp. Asian sesame oil

Season the ducks

In a mortar or spice grinder, grind the garlic, tangerine zest, coriander, five-spice, 2 Tbs. salt, and 1 tsp. pepper to a coarse paste.

Make 20 to 30 small slits in the skin of each duck, using a sharp paring knife held parallel to the duck surface so that you pierce the skin and fat but not the meat. Be sure to make slits on the backs and thighs as well as the breasts. Rub about two-thirds of the spice mixture into the duck cavities and then rub the remaining all over the skin. Set the ducks on a rack over a large rimmed baking sheet and allow to air dry uncovered in the refrigerator for 24 to 36 hours.

Roast the ducks

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. Let the ducks sit at room temperature as the oven heats. Arrange the ducks breast down on two small V-racks in a large roasting pan and roast for 1-1/4 hours. Remove the pan from the oven and spoon or pour off most of the fat from the roasting pan—use a turkey baster if you have one. Flip the ducks, using sturdy tongs inserted in the cavities, and pierce the skin again all over with a knife. Continue roasting the ducks until the meat around the thighs feels tender when prodded (a skewer should penetrate the thigh with no resistance), the legs feel loose in their joints, and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the thigh near the joint reads 175°F, 45 to 60 minutes more.

Glaze the ducks

Remove the ducks from the oven, and increase the oven temperature to 500°F. In a small bowl, whisk the hoisin, orange liqueur, honey, tangerine juice, and sesame oil. Transfer the ducks (on the racks) to a rimmed baking sheet. With a brush, paint the breasts and legs with a thin layer of glaze and return to the oven. Paint again after 5 minutes and continue roasting until mahogany-color, 3 to 5 minutes more.

Let the ducks rest for 5 to 10 minutes before carving.

Chinese Five-Spice-Crusted Duck Breasts

This dish may look impressive, but with only a few simple ingredients, it’s a cinch to pull off.  

• 4 boneless duck breast halves with skin (2 to 2-1/2 lb.)
• 1-1/2 tsp. Chinese five-spice powder
• 3/4 tsp. kosher salt
• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Trim the visible fat and silver-skin from the flesh side of the duck. If the tenderloins are still on the breasts, leave them on. Don’t trim the skin side; simply score the duck skin in a crosshatch pattern to allow the fat to cook out. Mix the five-spice powder with the salt and pepper in a small bowl. Gently rub the duck all over with the mixture.

Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat and put the duck, skin side down, in the skillet. Slowly render the fat from the skin without moving the duck breasts. After 15 minutes, tilt the pan and carefully spoon off as much fat as possible. Cook until the skin is dark golden brown and crisp, about 25 minutes total.

Flip the breasts with a metal spatula (carefully loosen the skin if it’s stuck to the pan). Increase the heat to medium and finish cooking the duck until the second side is golden and the duck is done to your liking, another 3 to 7 minutes, depending on thickness. (An instant-read thermometer should register 135°F for medium doneness, which will still be pink and juicy.)

Transfer the duck breasts to a cutting board and let rest, skin side up, for about 5 minutes before serving either whole or sliced on an angle into medallions.

Seared Duck Breasts with Pear-Bourbon Relish

This gorgeous main course is elegant enough for company, yet it’s simple and quick to make. Serve with wild rice and sautéed spinach.

• 4 small or 2 large skin-on duck breasts (about 2 lb. total)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1/4 cup minced shallot
• 1 large firm-ripe pear, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 3 Tbs. bourbon
• 2 Tbs. light brown sugar
• 1 1-inch-wide strip lemon zest
• 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
• Pinch ground allspice
• 2 Tbs. dried sweetened cranberries
• 2 Tbs. coarsely chopped roasted unsalted pistachios

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.

Trim any excess skin off the edges of the breasts, score the skin in a 1/2-inch crosshatch pattern, and pat the breasts dry. Generously season both sides of each breast with salt and pepper.

Heat a heavy-duty ovenproof 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until very hot, about 3 minutes.

Put the duck skin side down in the hot skillet (cover with a splatter screen if you have one). Cook until the skin is deeply browned and crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a large plate and pour off the fat in the pan. Return the duck to the pan skin side up and roast until medium rare (125°F), 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board to rest.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the pear, bourbon, brown sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice, allspice, and 1/4 tsp. each salt and pepper. Cover and simmer until the pear is tender, about 3 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until just a little liquid remains, about 5 minutes more. Stir in the cranberries and remove from the heat.

Slice the duck breasts crosswise 1/4 inch thick. Remove the lemon zest from the relish and stir in the pistachios. Serve the duck with the relish.

Chinese Duck and Shiitake Dumplings (Jiao Zi)

Chinese delis sell roasted ducks with glossy, crisp skin and succulent meat, which in these dumplings gets paired with meaty dried shiitakes and crunchy water chestnuts. Half a roast chicken, especially the thighs and legs, makes a fine substitute for the duck.Web extra: Watch Thy Tran’s step-by-step demonstration of how to make the dumplings.

For the dough:

• 6-3/4 oz. (1-1/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more for kneading

For the filling:

• Half a roast duck, preferably Beijing-style
• 8 dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked in hot water for 30 minutes
• 1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
• 6 oz. spinach, washed and trimmed
• 1/4 cup finely chopped water chestnuts
• 2 medium scallions, thinly sliced
• 1-1/2 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
• 1 Tbs. soy sauce
• 1 tsp. cornstarch
• Freshly ground black pepper

To finish the dumplings:

• Kosher salt, as needed (for boiled dumplings)
• Vegetable oil, as needed (for pan-fried dumplings)
• 1 recipe Ginger Vinegar or Scallion-Soy Dipping Sauce

Make the dough:

Pour the flour into a mound on a clean work surface. Make a deep, wide well in the center and pour in 1/2 cup cold water. Stir with your fingers, staying in the center at first and being careful that the water doesn’t breach the wall. Little by little, using your hand and a bench knife, mix in flour from the sides until the dough starts to come together. (Alternatively, put the flour in a medium bowl. Make a well, add the water, and stir first with a spoon and then your hand.) If the dough remains in shreds, sprinkle in additional water, a teaspoon at a time, until it begins to stick together. Don’t add too much water or the dough will be difficult to work.


Knead the dough for 5 minutes to form a smooth, firm, elastic ball. (If you began the dough in a bowl, lightly dust a clean, dry surface with flour before kneading.) The dough should not be sticky and should bounce back when pressed with a fingertip. Divide in half with a bench knife and roll into two 6-inch logs. Sprinkle each log evenly with flour, cover with a clean kitchen towel, and let rest for at least 30 minutes at room temperature before rolling and filling.

Make the filling:

Separate the duck meat from the bones and skin; shred the meat finely by hand. Cut the stems from the mushrooms and discard. Squeeze excess moisture from the caps and chop finely. Transfer the duck and mushrooms to a medium bowl.


In a 12-inch skillet, bring 2 Tbs. of water and the sugar to a boil over high heat. Add the spinach and cook, stirring, until wilted, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Squeeze the excess water from the spinach and transfer to a cutting board to cool. Chop finely.


Stir the spinach, water chestnuts, scallions, ginger, soy sauce, cornstarch, and 1/4 tsp. black pepper into the duck and mushrooms. Transfer to a bowl and let cool.

Cut and roll the dough

Cut each log in half crosswise. Cut each half crosswise into thirds, and then slice each of those pieces into three even coins. You should have 36 pieces of equal size. Toss the pieces in flour to coat evenly and then cover with a clean towel so they don’t dry out.


Using a small rolling pin, roll a piece of dough into a thin 3-inch circle; with the dough in one hand and the pin in the other, roll from the edges toward the center as you rotate the dough. This rolling technique helps create a round with thin edges and a thicker center.

Fill and shape the dumplings:

Tip:

If you have helpers, set up an assembly line and roll out each wrapper, then pass it along to the next person to fill. If you're filling all the dumplings yourself, it's best to roll out several wrappers, and keep them covered with a kitchen towel as you fill them, to prevent them from drying out.

Spoon 1 to 2 tsp. of the filling onto a dough circle, fold it in half, and then if you’re going to boil the dumplings, seal it by pinching along the curved edge. If you’re planning to pan-fry the dumplings for pot stickers, make your first pinch at the center of the curved edge and then pleat toward the center on both sides to create a rounded belly. This wider shape allows the dumplings to sit upright in the pan and form a flat surface for browning.


Repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling. As you work, arrange the filled dumplings in a single layer without touching on large plates, so they don’t stick together.

To cook: either boil the dumplings...

Bring a large (7- to 8-quart) pot of salted water to a boil. Working in 2 or 3 batches to avoid overcrowding, quickly add the dumplings one at a time, making sure they don’t stick to each other. Lower the heat to medium and continue to boil, gently stirring occasionally, until the dumplings float and are cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and serve immediately with your choice of dipping sauce.

...or pan-fry the dumplings:

Heat 2 Tbs. vegetable oil in a heavy-duty 10- or 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Working quickly and in batches if necessary (adding more oil for the second batch if needed), arrange the dumplings belly side down in concentric circles starting from the outer edge. Cook until golden brown on the bottom, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour in about 1/2 cup water or enough to come about a third of the way up the sides of the dumplings, bring to a boil, cover, and cook until all of the water has been absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the lid, reduce the heat to medium, and continue cooking just until the dumplings are dry and crisp on the bottom, 1 to 2 minutes. Loosen the dumplings from the pan with a spatula. Invert the pan over a plate to flip the dumplings, browned side up, onto the plate (or transfer with a spatula). Serve immediately with your choice of dipping sauce.

Pappardelle with Venetian Duck Ragu

In northern Italy, ragùs tend to be less about tomatoes and more about the meat and aromatic herbs that flavor them. Venetian ragù, for example, is made from the meat of the wild ducks and is perfumed with native bay leaf and fresh sage. Some versions of this ragù use duck stock and the liver and giblets, while others (like the recipe below) get deep flavor from duck legs and thighs and dry red wine. Venetian duck ragù is typically served with fat, tubular buckwheat noodles called bigoli, but it’s also delicious with whole-wheat fettuccine, spaghetti, or pappardelle, as shown here.

• 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 skin-on, bone-in duck legs and thighs
• Kosher or fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 medium celery stalks, finely chopped
• 2 medium cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
• 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
• 1 medium carrot, finely chopped
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh sage
• 1 fresh bay leaf or 1/2 dried
• 1 cup dry Italian red wine, such as Valpolicella
• 1 28-oz. can chopped tomatoes
• 1/2 to 1 cup lower-salt chicken broth
• 1 lb. fresh pappardelle, preferably whole-wheat, or fettucine or spaghetti
• Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving (optional)

Make the ragu

Heat the oil in a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot over medium-high heat. Season both sides of the duck legs and thighs with salt and pepper and arrange them in the pot, skin side down. Sear until the skin is browned and crisp, about 7 minutes. Using tongs, turn the legs over and brown the other sides, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the duck to a deep platter. Pour off all but about 1 Tbs. of the rendered fat and discard or save for another use.

Reduce the heat to medium low. Put the celery, garlic, onion, carrot, sage, and bay leaf in the pot. Cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are softened, 7 to 8 minutes.
 

Pour in the wine and increase the heat to high. Cook at a lively simmer for 1 minute and then reduce the heat to medium. Stir in the tomatoes with their juice and 1/2 cup of the broth. Return the duck to the pot and bring the liquid to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium low or low to maintain a gentle simmer. Cover the pot and simmer until the meat is fork-tender, 1-1/2 to 2 hours.

Remove the duck from the pot and set aside until cool enough to handle. Meanwhile, skim the excess fat from the top of the sauce with a large spoon. If the sauce seems thin, continue simmering until flavorful and thickened to a saucy consistency.

Discard the duck skin and shred the meat. Add the shredded meat to the sauce, along with the other 1/2 cup of broth if the sauce seems too thick. Let the sauce simmer gently for 15 minutes; discard the garlic and bay leaf. Season to taste with salt and pepper.  

Cook the pasta and serve

When ready to serve, bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook the pasta until al dente—you want it to still have some bite because it will continue to cook a bit while you’re tossing it with the ragù. Reserve about 1 cup of the cooking water and then drain the pasta. Return the pasta to the pot and toss it with some of the ragù, adding a little cooking water if it seems dry. Serve the pasta with more ragù spooned over the top, garnished with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, if you like.

Cassoulet of White Beans with Braised Pork, Sausage, and Duck Confit

Making this legendary southern French casserole is definitely a project. For the best flavor, Prepare the duck confit at least one week (or up to two months) before making cassoulet—the flavor and texture improve as the duck legs cure in their fat. For more tips on breaking up the work over a few days, see Make-Ahead Tips, below.And, since you'll need only about half the confit, check out our Test Kitchen blog for ideas on how to use the rest.

For the Beans

• 2 lb. dried Great Northern beans (or other medium white bean), picked through and rinsed
• 1 medium yellow onion, quartered
• 5 to 6 sprigs fresh thyme
• One 6-inch sprig fresh rosemary
• 1 sprig fresh savory (optional)
• 1 medium dried bay leaf
• 1 small dried red chile, such as chile de árbol, or 1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
• 2 tsp. kosher salt

For the Stewed Pork

• 2 lb. boneless pork shoulder, cut into
• 2-inch pieces
• 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 1 cup lower-salt canned or homemade chicken broth
• 1 medium clove garlic, smashed
• One 4-inch sprig fresh rosemary

For the Vegetables and Tomato Sauce

• 1/4 cup duck fat (from the duck confit) or extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 oz. pancetta (about three 1/4-inch-thick slices), cut into 1/2-inch dice (1 cup)
• 2 large carrots, cut into 3/8-inch dice (about 1-1/2 cups)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 large yellow onion, diced (2 cups)
• 5 medium cloves garlic, minced
• One 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes, drained and chopped

For the Final Assembly:

• 1/2 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 3 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 6-inch links mild fresh sausage (such as sweet Italian)
• 1/2 recipe Duck Confit (meat from 4 legs), pulled into chunks
• 3 cups coarse fresh breadcrumbs
• 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (optional)
• 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest (optional)

Cook the Beans:

Soak the beans overnight in cold water (soaking is optional, but makes the texture creamier and the cooking time shorter). Drain, rinse again, and put in a large saucepan or 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven. Add enough water to cover the beans by 1 inch (more, if you didn’t soak them). Add the onion, thyme, rosemary, savory (if using), bay leaf, chile, and salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, adjusting the heat as needed to achieve a gentle bubbling. Cover partially and simmer until the beans are tender but still hold their shape. Depending on the variety and freshness of your beans, this could take from 30 minutes to 2 hours, so check frequently, adding more water if the beans get dry. Remove from the heat and let cool in the liquid.

Make the Stewed Pork:

In a medium bowl, toss the pork with the olive oil and a generous sprinkling of salt and pepper. Heat a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan over medium-high heat, add about half of the pork in a single layer, and cook until well browned on all sides, 7 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a plate and repeat with the remaining pork. Pour off any fat and return the reserved pork and any accumulated juices to the pan. Add the wine and boil vigorously until it’s reduced to about 1/4 cup. Add the broth, garlic, and rosemary and reduce the heat to low. Cover the pan and simmer gently until the pork is very tender, 1 to 1-1/2 hours. Cool slightly, remove the meat from the broth, and put the broth in a bowl. Let the broth cool and then skim off as much fat as possible.

For the Vegetables and Tomato Sauce

Heat 1 Tbs. of the duck fat or olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Add the pancetta and cook until browned and most of the fat has been rendered, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and pour off the fat. Add another 1 Tbs. of the duck fat or oil to the pan, raise the heat to medium high, and add the carrots; season with salt and pepper. Cook until barely tender and golden around the edges, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer the carrots to the bowl with the pancetta. Add 1 Tbs. more duck fat or oil and the onions to the skillet. Season with salt and pepper, reduce the heat to medium low, and cook, stirring and scraping the pan frequently, until the onions are soft and fragrant and starting to caramelize, 15 to 20 minutes. Add the onions to the carrots and pancetta.


If there’s a layer of cooked-on juices in the pan, deglaze with a few spoonfuls of water and add that to the vegetables and pancetta.


Over medium-high heat, add the remaining 1 Tbs. duck fat or olive oil to the skillet, and quickly cook the garlic until it’s fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the chopped tomatoes and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently, until they reach the consistency of a chunky sauce, 5 to 6 minutes. Set aside. 

Assemble and Bake the Cassoulet:

Strain the beans, reserving the cooking liquid (if you haven’t done so already). Pick out the herb stems, onion, and chile and discard. Gently fold the beans with the pancetta-vegetable mixture, the tomato sauce, and the parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Choose a vessel for the cassoulet: A flameproof roasting pan that’s about 16x13x3 inches works well, as does a 9- to 10-quart Dutch oven. Adjust the oven rack so that the pan you’re using will sit about 6 inches below the broiler. Heat the oven to 350°F.


Heat 1 tsp. of the olive oil in the pan over medium heat. Add the sausages and cook until nicely browned all over, 5 to 6 minutes (they don’t need to be fully cooked at this point). Remove from the heat. Set the sausages aside to cool; then cut into quarters. Pour off any fat from the pan.


Spoon half the bean mixture into the pan in an even layer. Arrange the sausage, pork shoulder, and duck meat evenly over the beans. Top with the rest of the beans. Pour in the defatted pork broth and then add the bean-cooking liquid until the level comes to just below the beans—you should be able to see the liquid but it shouldn’t cover the beans. Bake the cassoulet, uncovered, for 45 minutes.


Toss the remaining 3 Tbs. olive oil with the breadcrumbs, cheese, and zest (if using), and spread about 2 cups over the surface of the cassoulet. Continue baking until the crumbs start to brown and the beans are sizzling around the edges, about 45 minutes more.


Sprinkle on the remaining crumbs, turn the broiler to high, and broil until the crumbs are crunchy and browned, about 1 minute. Remove the cassoulet and let it sit for at least 45 minutes so the juices can thicken slightly. Serve hot or warm.

Chinese Duck and Shiitake Dumplings (Jiao Zi)

Chinese delis sell roasted ducks with glossy, crisp skin and succulent meat, which in these dumplings gets paired with meaty dried shiitakes and crunchy water chestnuts. Half a roast chicken, especially the thighs and legs, makes a fine substitute for the duck.Web extra: Watch Thy Tran’s step-by-step demonstration of how to make the dumplings.

For the dough:

• 6-3/4 oz. (1-1/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more for kneading

For the filling:

• Half a roast duck, preferably Beijing-style
• 8 dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked in hot water for 30 minutes
• 1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
• 6 oz. spinach, washed and trimmed
• 1/4 cup finely chopped water chestnuts
• 2 medium scallions, thinly sliced
• 1-1/2 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
• 1 Tbs. soy sauce
• 1 tsp. cornstarch
• Freshly ground black pepper

To finish the dumplings:

• Kosher salt, as needed (for boiled dumplings)
• Vegetable oil, as needed (for pan-fried dumplings)
• 1 recipe Ginger Vinegar or Scallion-Soy Dipping Sauce

Make the dough:

Pour the flour into a mound on a clean work surface. Make a deep, wide well in the center and pour in 1/2 cup cold water. Stir with your fingers, staying in the center at first and being careful that the water doesn’t breach the wall. Little by little, using your hand and a bench knife, mix in flour from the sides until the dough starts to come together. (Alternatively, put the flour in a medium bowl. Make a well, add the water, and stir first with a spoon and then your hand.) If the dough remains in shreds, sprinkle in additional water, a teaspoon at a time, until it begins to stick together. Don’t add too much water or the dough will be difficult to work.


Knead the dough for 5 minutes to form a smooth, firm, elastic ball. (If you began the dough in a bowl, lightly dust a clean, dry surface with flour before kneading.) The dough should not be sticky and should bounce back when pressed with a fingertip. Divide in half with a bench knife and roll into two 6-inch logs. Sprinkle each log evenly with flour, cover with a clean kitchen towel, and let rest for at least 30 minutes at room temperature before rolling and filling.

Make the filling:

Separate the duck meat from the bones and skin; shred the meat finely by hand. Cut the stems from the mushrooms and discard. Squeeze excess moisture from the caps and chop finely. Transfer the duck and mushrooms to a medium bowl.


In a 12-inch skillet, bring 2 Tbs. of water and the sugar to a boil over high heat. Add the spinach and cook, stirring, until wilted, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Squeeze the excess water from the spinach and transfer to a cutting board to cool. Chop finely.


Stir the spinach, water chestnuts, scallions, ginger, soy sauce, cornstarch, and 1/4 tsp. black pepper into the duck and mushrooms. Transfer to a bowl and let cool.

Cut and roll the dough

Cut each log in half crosswise. Cut each half crosswise into thirds, and then slice each of those pieces into three even coins. You should have 36 pieces of equal size. Toss the pieces in flour to coat evenly and then cover with a clean towel so they don’t dry out.


Using a small rolling pin, roll a piece of dough into a thin 3-inch circle; with the dough in one hand and the pin in the other, roll from the edges toward the center as you rotate the dough. This rolling technique helps create a round with thin edges and a thicker center.

Fill and shape the dumplings:

Tip:

If you have helpers, set up an assembly line and roll out each wrapper, then pass it along to the next person to fill. If you're filling all the dumplings yourself, it's best to roll out several wrappers, and keep them covered with a kitchen towel as you fill them, to prevent them from drying out.

Spoon 1 to 2 tsp. of the filling onto a dough circle, fold it in half, and then if you’re going to boil the dumplings, seal it by pinching along the curved edge. If you’re planning to pan-fry the dumplings for pot stickers, make your first pinch at the center of the curved edge and then pleat toward the center on both sides to create a rounded belly. This wider shape allows the dumplings to sit upright in the pan and form a flat surface for browning.


Repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling. As you work, arrange the filled dumplings in a single layer without touching on large plates, so they don’t stick together.

To cook: either boil the dumplings...

Bring a large (7- to 8-quart) pot of salted water to a boil. Working in 2 or 3 batches to avoid overcrowding, quickly add the dumplings one at a time, making sure they don’t stick to each other. Lower the heat to medium and continue to boil, gently stirring occasionally, until the dumplings float and are cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and serve immediately with your choice of dipping sauce.

...or pan-fry the dumplings:

Heat 2 Tbs. vegetable oil in a heavy-duty 10- or 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Working quickly and in batches if necessary (adding more oil for the second batch if needed), arrange the dumplings belly side down in concentric circles starting from the outer edge. Cook until golden brown on the bottom, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour in about 1/2 cup water or enough to come about a third of the way up the sides of the dumplings, bring to a boil, cover, and cook until all of the water has been absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the lid, reduce the heat to medium, and continue cooking just until the dumplings are dry and crisp on the bottom, 1 to 2 minutes. Loosen the dumplings from the pan with a spatula. Invert the pan over a plate to flip the dumplings, browned side up, onto the plate (or transfer with a spatula). Serve immediately with your choice of dipping sauce.

Cassoulet

This recipe serves six generously, and it’s easily doubled if you want to make more (leftovers are delicious). If you don’t have the traditional deep earthenware casserole, use a 5-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven or a ceramic soufflé dish -- the vessel needs to be wide enough for a crust to form. For pork rind, order it or buy salt pork and cut the rind off, freezing the salt pork for another use.

For the bean stew

• 1 lb. dry white beans, such as cannelini or Great Northern
• 1 pig’s foot or 1 small fresh ham hock
• 3/4 lb. pork belly or pancetta
• 1/2 lb. pork rind
• 1 medium carrot, halved
• 1/2 large onion, peeled and halved, each half studded with 1 whole clove
• 1/2 tomato, peeled and seeded, or 1/2 cup canned whole tomatoes, drained
• 1/2 rib celery, halved
• 1/2 head garlic, halved across the top
• 1 bay leaf, several sprigs of fresh thyme, and several parsley stems, tied together in a bouquet
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the lamb stew

• 1 lb. boneless lamb shoulder, neck, or shank meat (about 2 lb. on the bone)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup duck fat or olive oil
• 1 medium carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped
• 1 onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
• 3/4 cup dry white wine
• 2 tomatoes, peeled and seeded, or 2 cups canned whole tomatoes, lightly squeezed
• 1 bay leaf, several sprigs of fresh thyme, and several parsley stems, tied together in a bouquet
• 2 cloves garlic
• 2 cups homemade or low-salt chicken broth or duck stock

For the cassoulet

• 1/4 cup duck fat or olive oil
• 1/2 lb. garlic sausage or sweet Italian sausage that’s not seasoned with fennel
• 3 to 4 duck confit legs
• 1 clove garlic
• Bean stew
• Lamb stew
• 2 cups coarse, unseasoned breadcrumbs, toasted, preferably from a baguette
• Extra chicken broth or duck stock for moistening the cassoulet during baking, if needed

Tip:

Duck fat and confit duck legs are available at www.dartagnan.com, or you can make your own duck confit. 

Make the bean stew: Soak the beans overnight in enough cold water to cover them well. Drain, rinse, and pick through them for stones and damaged beans. In a large saucepan, cover the pig’s foot or ham hock, pork belly or pancetta, and pork rind with cold water. Bring to a boil, simmer for 3 minutes, drain, and rinse in cold water. Reserve. In a large saucepan, cover the beans with lukewarm water. Bring to a boil, drain, and return to the pan. Cover with hot water. Add the carrots, onion, tomato, celery, garlic, and herb bouquet. Bring to a boil, add the reserved pig’s foot or ham hock, pork belly or pancetta, and pork rind. Simmer, covered, for 1-1/2 hours, until completely tender (don’t add salt yet). Transfer to a large pan to cool and reserve the beans in their cooking liquid. Remove the carrot, onion, and herb bouquet; discard. Taste and season with salt and pepper as needed, but be prudent, as the pork parts add a good bit of salty flavor.

Meanwhile, make the lamb stew: Cut the lamb into 2-1/2-inch pieces. Season with salt and pepper. In a large, heavy sauté pan over medium-high heat, melt the duck fat or heat the oil. Sear the lamb pieces until well browned on all sides. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve. Add the carrot and onion, lower the heat to medium, and cover the pan. Sweat the vegetables until tender but not browned, about 6 minutes. Raise the heat, add the white wine, and boil, scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon, until the liquid is reduced by half. Add the reserved lamb and any juices, the tomatoes, herb bouquet, garlic, and broth or stock. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat and simmer, covered, until the lamb is tender, about 1 hour, skimming off the fat and froth as needed. Discard the herb bouquet and reserve the lamb stew until it’s time to assemble the cassoulet.

Assemble the cassoulet: Heat the oven to 250°F. In a medium-size sauté pan over medium-high heat, heat half of the duck fat or olive oil. Add the sausage and brown it on all sides. When cool enough to handle, cut it into six pieces.

Cut the duck confit legs in half at the joint. Rub the garlic clove over the inside of an earthenware casserole, an enameled cast-iron Dutch oven, or a large ceramic soufflé mold. Retrieve the pig’s foot or ham hock, pork rind, and pork belly or pancetta from the bean stew. Discard the pig’s foot or ham hock bones. (If you’ve used a ham hock, tear off any remaining meat and add it to the bean stew.) Cut the pork belly or pancetta into 1/2-inch pieces and reserve. Cut the pork rind into 1/2-inch pieces and scatter them over the bottom of the dish.

With a slotted spoon, transfer one-third of the beans to the dish. Do the same with half the pork belly or pancetta, all of the duck confit, half the lamb stew (again, use a slotted spoon, because you’ll be using the cooking liquid later), and all of the sausage. Cover the meats with another one-third of beans, the remaining pork belly and lamb stew, and finish with the last one-third of beans. Combine the bean juices with the lamb sauce, taste for seasoning (remembering that the duck confit is salty), and pour just enough over the dish to barely cover the beans.

Sprinkle the dish with the breadcrumbs and drizzle the remaining duck fat (melt it first if it’s still solid) or olive oil over the breadcrumbs. Bake for 2-1/2 hours and then raise the heat to 350°F and bake until the crust is a rich golden brown and the cassoulet is bubbling around the edges, about another 30 minutes. Check the cassoulet during baking -- if it’s getting too dry, add more broth or stock; if the crust is browning too quickly, cover it with foil. Let the cassoulet rest for at least 30 minutes before serving. Bring the entire dish to the table and serve each guest some crust, beans, and pieces of the different meats.

Cassoulet

This recipe serves six generously, and it’s easily doubled if you want to make more (leftovers are delicious). If you don’t have the traditional deep earthenware casserole, use a 5-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven or a ceramic soufflé dish -- the vessel needs to be wide enough for a crust to form. For pork rind, order it or buy salt pork and cut the rind off, freezing the salt pork for another use.

For the bean stew

• 1 lb. dry white beans, such as cannelini or Great Northern
• 1 pig’s foot or 1 small fresh ham hock
• 3/4 lb. pork belly or pancetta
• 1/2 lb. pork rind
• 1 medium carrot, halved
• 1/2 large onion, peeled and halved, each half studded with 1 whole clove
• 1/2 tomato, peeled and seeded, or 1/2 cup canned whole tomatoes, drained
• 1/2 rib celery, halved
• 1/2 head garlic, halved across the top
• 1 bay leaf, several sprigs of fresh thyme, and several parsley stems, tied together in a bouquet
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the lamb stew

• 1 lb. boneless lamb shoulder, neck, or shank meat (about 2 lb. on the bone)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup duck fat or olive oil
• 1 medium carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped
• 1 onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
• 3/4 cup dry white wine
• 2 tomatoes, peeled and seeded, or 2 cups canned whole tomatoes, lightly squeezed
• 1 bay leaf, several sprigs of fresh thyme, and several parsley stems, tied together in a bouquet
• 2 cloves garlic
• 2 cups homemade or low-salt chicken broth or duck stock

For the cassoulet

• 1/4 cup duck fat or olive oil
• 1/2 lb. garlic sausage or sweet Italian sausage that’s not seasoned with fennel
• 3 to 4 duck confit legs
• 1 clove garlic
• Bean stew
• Lamb stew
• 2 cups coarse, unseasoned breadcrumbs, toasted, preferably from a baguette
• Extra chicken broth or duck stock for moistening the cassoulet during baking, if needed

Tip:

Duck fat and confit duck legs are available at www.dartagnan.com, or you can make your own duck confit. 

Make the bean stew: Soak the beans overnight in enough cold water to cover them well. Drain, rinse, and pick through them for stones and damaged beans. In a large saucepan, cover the pig’s foot or ham hock, pork belly or pancetta, and pork rind with cold water. Bring to a boil, simmer for 3 minutes, drain, and rinse in cold water. Reserve. In a large saucepan, cover the beans with lukewarm water. Bring to a boil, drain, and return to the pan. Cover with hot water. Add the carrots, onion, tomato, celery, garlic, and herb bouquet. Bring to a boil, add the reserved pig’s foot or ham hock, pork belly or pancetta, and pork rind. Simmer, covered, for 1-1/2 hours, until completely tender (don’t add salt yet). Transfer to a large pan to cool and reserve the beans in their cooking liquid. Remove the carrot, onion, and herb bouquet; discard. Taste and season with salt and pepper as needed, but be prudent, as the pork parts add a good bit of salty flavor.

Meanwhile, make the lamb stew: Cut the lamb into 2-1/2-inch pieces. Season with salt and pepper. In a large, heavy sauté pan over medium-high heat, melt the duck fat or heat the oil. Sear the lamb pieces until well browned on all sides. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve. Add the carrot and onion, lower the heat to medium, and cover the pan. Sweat the vegetables until tender but not browned, about 6 minutes. Raise the heat, add the white wine, and boil, scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon, until the liquid is reduced by half. Add the reserved lamb and any juices, the tomatoes, herb bouquet, garlic, and broth or stock. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat and simmer, covered, until the lamb is tender, about 1 hour, skimming off the fat and froth as needed. Discard the herb bouquet and reserve the lamb stew until it’s time to assemble the cassoulet.

Assemble the cassoulet: Heat the oven to 250°F. In a medium-size sauté pan over medium-high heat, heat half of the duck fat or olive oil. Add the sausage and brown it on all sides. When cool enough to handle, cut it into six pieces.

Cut the duck confit legs in half at the joint. Rub the garlic clove over the inside of an earthenware casserole, an enameled cast-iron Dutch oven, or a large ceramic soufflé mold. Retrieve the pig’s foot or ham hock, pork rind, and pork belly or pancetta from the bean stew. Discard the pig’s foot or ham hock bones. (If you’ve used a ham hock, tear off any remaining meat and add it to the bean stew.) Cut the pork belly or pancetta into 1/2-inch pieces and reserve. Cut the pork rind into 1/2-inch pieces and scatter them over the bottom of the dish.

With a slotted spoon, transfer one-third of the beans to the dish. Do the same with half the pork belly or pancetta, all of the duck confit, half the lamb stew (again, use a slotted spoon, because you’ll be using the cooking liquid later), and all of the sausage. Cover the meats with another one-third of beans, the remaining pork belly and lamb stew, and finish with the last one-third of beans. Combine the bean juices with the lamb sauce, taste for seasoning (remembering that the duck confit is salty), and pour just enough over the dish to barely cover the beans.

Sprinkle the dish with the breadcrumbs and drizzle the remaining duck fat (melt it first if it’s still solid) or olive oil over the breadcrumbs. Bake for 2-1/2 hours and then raise the heat to 350°F and bake until the crust is a rich golden brown and the cassoulet is bubbling around the edges, about another 30 minutes. Check the cassoulet during baking -- if it’s getting too dry, add more broth or stock; if the crust is browning too quickly, cover it with foil. Let the cassoulet rest for at least 30 minutes before serving. Bring the entire dish to the table and serve each guest some crust, beans, and pieces of the different meats.

Bigoli with Duck Ragu

This thick, dense pasta was traditionally made with a special machine called a bigolaro, which forced the dough through holes to give the pasta its unique thick shape. A modern-day meat grinder produces similar results when making the fresh pasta at home. Traditionally bigoli are made with whole-wheat flour, but the recipe can be made with white flour as well.Watch the Fine Cooking Culinary School Video Series, where the authors show you, step-by-step, how to make this dish, as well as eight other handmade pastas.

For the ragu

• One 5-lb. whole duck
• Kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 3 bay leaves
• 3 sprigs thyme
• 3 sprigs rosemary
• 10 sage leaves
• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium onion, cut into fine dice
• 1 stalk celery, cut into fine dice
• 1 carrot, cut into fine dice
• 1 lb. ground duck breast, including skin
• 1/2 cup Marsala wine
• 1 cup white wine
• One 28-oz. can whole plum tomatoes, chopped
• 1 Tbs. chopped flat leaf parsley plus 1 sprig
• 1 tsp. ground cinnamon

For the pasta

• 5-3/4 cups whole-wheat flour
• 4 eggs, at room temperature
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted
• 1/2 cup whole milk, warmed

Heat the oven to 450°F. Wash and pat dry the duck. Season the duck inside and outside with salt and pepper. Place 2 bay leaves, 2 sprigs thyme, 2 sprigs rosemary, and sage in the cavity of the duck. Tie up the legs, and place duck in a roasting pan. Prick the duck all over (top and bottom) with a fork, and then roast in the oven, turning every 30 minutes, until the meat is cooked through, about 1-1/2 hours. Remove from the oven and let cool. Shred the meat from the carcass, cutting it into small pieces and discarding the skin.


Meanwhile, in a heavy casserole pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, and carrot and sauté until tender, about 7 minutes. Add the ground duck to the pan and continue to cook over medium heat until browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Pour the Marsala into the pan and cook until reduced to dry.


Add the shredded duck meat to the pan with the ground duck. Add the white wine, the chopped tomatoes and their juices, and a cheesecloth containing the remaining thyme, bay leaf, and 1 sprig of parsley. Cook until the wine has reduced by half. Season with salt and pepper and the cinnamon.


On a clean work surface, form a well in the flour. Add the eggs to the center of the well and beat lightly with a fork. Add the butter and milk to the eggs, along with a pinch of salt. Gradually pull the flour into the egg mixture with the fork and mix until the dough starts to form. Knead the dough until it is smooth and elastic and not at all sticky. Cover the dough with a bowl or kitchen towel and let rest at least 30 minutes.


Divide the dough into 8 small pieces. Knead each piece of dough with a little extra flour, then, using a meat grinder (electric or manual) with the plate with the smallest holes, put the dough through the grinder, set at the lowest setting, one piece at a time. As the pasta comes out, cut each strand with scissors or a sharp knife at 6-inch intervals. Place the pasta on a sheet pan lightly dusted with flour. Put the remaining pieces of dough through the grinder in the same manner.


Bring 6 quarts of salted water to a boil. Drop the bigoli into the water and cook until tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Meanwhile, reheat the duck ragu. Drain the pasta and toss immediately with the warm duck ragu. Garnish with the chopped parsley and serve immediately.

Roasted Ducks with Tangerine-Hoisin Glaze

Rubbing the ducks with a mix of garlic, tangerine zest, five-spice powder, and coriander and then refrigerating for a day or two adds flavor and helps the skin crisp during roasting.

For the ducks

• 4 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 4 tsp. finely grated tangerine zest
• 2-1/2 tsp. coriander seed
• 2-1/2 tsp. five-spice powder
• Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
• 2 Pekin (Long Island) ducks (5 to 6 lb. each), giblets discarded

For the glaze

• 3 Tbs. hoisin sauce
• 2 Tbs. orange liqueur, such as Grand Marnier or Triple Sec
• 1 Tbs. honey
• 1 Tbs. fresh tangerine juice
• 1 tsp. Asian sesame oil

Season the ducks

In a mortar or spice grinder, grind the garlic, tangerine zest, coriander, five-spice, 2 Tbs. salt, and 1 tsp. pepper to a coarse paste.

Make 20 to 30 small slits in the skin of each duck, using a sharp paring knife held parallel to the duck surface so that you pierce the skin and fat but not the meat. Be sure to make slits on the backs and thighs as well as the breasts. Rub about two-thirds of the spice mixture into the duck cavities and then rub the remaining all over the skin. Set the ducks on a rack over a large rimmed baking sheet and allow to air dry uncovered in the refrigerator for 24 to 36 hours.

Roast the ducks

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. Let the ducks sit at room temperature as the oven heats. Arrange the ducks breast down on two small V-racks in a large roasting pan and roast for 1-1/4 hours. Remove the pan from the oven and spoon or pour off most of the fat from the roasting pan—use a turkey baster if you have one. Flip the ducks, using sturdy tongs inserted in the cavities, and pierce the skin again all over with a knife. Continue roasting the ducks until the meat around the thighs feels tender when prodded (a skewer should penetrate the thigh with no resistance), the legs feel loose in their joints, and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the thigh near the joint reads 175°F, 45 to 60 minutes more.

Glaze the ducks

Remove the ducks from the oven, and increase the oven temperature to 500°F. In a small bowl, whisk the hoisin, orange liqueur, honey, tangerine juice, and sesame oil. Transfer the ducks (on the racks) to a rimmed baking sheet. With a brush, paint the breasts and legs with a thin layer of glaze and return to the oven. Paint again after 5 minutes and continue roasting until mahogany-color, 3 to 5 minutes more.

Let the ducks rest for 5 to 10 minutes before carving.

Duck Confit Risotto with Butter & Sage

For this recipe you can make your own duck confit or buy it from a specialty store (such as D'Artagnan). The confit practically melts into the rice during cooking, adding to the creaminess of this risotto. If you’ve made a stock from the duck bones, use it here for added flavor depth. Remember, confit is salty, so don’t add any more salt until near the end.

• 3 to 4 cups homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth or homemade duck stock
• 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2/3 cup finely minced onion or shallot
• 1 cup raw Arborio or Carnaroli rice
• 1 cup (packed) bite-size pieces duck confit  (from 1 leg and 1 breast, or 2 legs, or 2 breasts); skin removed
• 6 large leaves fresh sage, cut into thin strips (about 1-1/2 Tbs.)
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 2/3 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; more to taste
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a small saucepan, bring the broth (or stock) to a boil. Reduce to a gentle simmer at medium-low heat.

In a medium-size, heavy saucepan, heat the olive oil and 2 Tbs. of the butter over medium-high heat. Once the butter melts, add the onion or shallot and cook, stirring constantly, until translucent and softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the rice, stirring constantly to coat well, and cook until the outside of the rice is translucent, about 2 minutes. Add 3/4 cup of the duck confit and  2 tsp. of the sage; stir to combine. Immediately raise the heat to high, add the wine, and cook, stirring, until most of the liquid has disappeared, about 2 minutes. Add enough broth to just cover the rice, about 1 cup. As soon as it simmers (which should be almost immediately), reduce the heat to low or medium low to maintain a steady but gentle simmer. Stir frequently and continue to add broth, a scant 1/2 cup at a time, as it’s absorbed by the rice.

After about 15 minutes, begin testing the rice for doneness. By this time, you should have added about 3 cups of the broth, and the rice should be creamy but slightly firm. Once the rice is tender to the bite with just a tiny white grain left in the center of the kernel, stir in the Parmigiano and the remaining 1 Tbs. butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir constantly until the cheese and butter are fully incorporated. Cook for another 1 minute, until the risotto is creamy but not runny. Remove from the heat. Serve immediately, garnished with the remaining confit and sage and more Parmigiano.

Duck Breast with Saba and Grapes

Reduced grape must (saba) boosts the grape flavor in this rich, sweet sauce. Serve with wilted spinach and roasted turnips or potatoes.

• 4 small or 2 large boneless duck breasts (1-3/4 to 2 lb. total)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1-1/2 cups seedless Autumn Royal or other purple or red grapes
• 1/4 cup minced shallot
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1 cup lower-salt chicken broth
• 3 Tbs. saba
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

With a sharp knife, score the duck skin in a diamond pattern, being careful not to cut all the way through to the meat. Season the duck all over with salt and pepper. Put the duck skin side down in a cold 12-inch skillet. Cook over medium heat without moving, spooning off the excess fat occasionally, until the skin becomes light golden-brown, 8 to 9 minutes.

Loosen the duck from the pan with a spatula. Raise the heat to medium high and continue cooking, skin side down, until the skin is thin, crisp, and browned, about 4 minutes. Turn the duck and continue cooking until an instant-read thermometer registers 135°F in the thickest part of a breast for medium rare, about 10 minutes more. Transfer the duck to a plate.

Pour off all but 1 Tbs. of the fat from the skillet. Add the grapes and cook over medium-high heat, stirring often, until lightly browned but still firm, about 3 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the grapes to the plate with the duck. Add the shallot to the skillet and cook until slightly softened, about 1 minute. Add the wine and cook, stirring up the browned bits, until all the liquid evaporates, 2 to 4 minutes. Add the chicken broth and saba and boil until the mixture reduces to 2/3 cup, 5 to 6 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the grapes, duck, and any juices from the plate to the skillet. Simmer gently for about 1 minute, turning the duck to coat it with the sauce. Thinly slice the duck and divide it among 4 plates. Spoon the sauce and grapes over the duck. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve immediately.

Duck Breast with Saba and Grapes

Reduced grape must (saba) boosts the grape flavor in this rich, sweet sauce. Serve with wilted spinach and roasted turnips or potatoes.

• 4 small or 2 large boneless duck breasts (1-3/4 to 2 lb. total)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1-1/2 cups seedless Autumn Royal or other purple or red grapes
• 1/4 cup minced shallot
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1 cup lower-salt chicken broth
• 3 Tbs. saba
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

With a sharp knife, score the duck skin in a diamond pattern, being careful not to cut all the way through to the meat. Season the duck all over with salt and pepper. Put the duck skin side down in a cold 12-inch skillet. Cook over medium heat without moving, spooning off the excess fat occasionally, until the skin becomes light golden-brown, 8 to 9 minutes.

Loosen the duck from the pan with a spatula. Raise the heat to medium high and continue cooking, skin side down, until the skin is thin, crisp, and browned, about 4 minutes. Turn the duck and continue cooking until an instant-read thermometer registers 135°F in the thickest part of a breast for medium rare, about 10 minutes more. Transfer the duck to a plate.

Pour off all but 1 Tbs. of the fat from the skillet. Add the grapes and cook over medium-high heat, stirring often, until lightly browned but still firm, about 3 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the grapes to the plate with the duck. Add the shallot to the skillet and cook until slightly softened, about 1 minute. Add the wine and cook, stirring up the browned bits, until all the liquid evaporates, 2 to 4 minutes. Add the chicken broth and saba and boil until the mixture reduces to 2/3 cup, 5 to 6 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the grapes, duck, and any juices from the plate to the skillet. Simmer gently for about 1 minute, turning the duck to coat it with the sauce. Thinly slice the duck and divide it among 4 plates. Spoon the sauce and grapes over the duck. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve immediately.

Cassoulet

This recipe serves six generously, and it’s easily doubled if you want to make more (leftovers are delicious). If you don’t have the traditional deep earthenware casserole, use a 5-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven or a ceramic soufflé dish -- the vessel needs to be wide enough for a crust to form. For pork rind, order it or buy salt pork and cut the rind off, freezing the salt pork for another use.

For the bean stew

• 1 lb. dry white beans, such as cannelini or Great Northern
• 1 pig’s foot or 1 small fresh ham hock
• 3/4 lb. pork belly or pancetta
• 1/2 lb. pork rind
• 1 medium carrot, halved
• 1/2 large onion, peeled and halved, each half studded with 1 whole clove
• 1/2 tomato, peeled and seeded, or 1/2 cup canned whole tomatoes, drained
• 1/2 rib celery, halved
• 1/2 head garlic, halved across the top
• 1 bay leaf, several sprigs of fresh thyme, and several parsley stems, tied together in a bouquet
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the lamb stew

• 1 lb. boneless lamb shoulder, neck, or shank meat (about 2 lb. on the bone)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup duck fat or olive oil
• 1 medium carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped
• 1 onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
• 3/4 cup dry white wine
• 2 tomatoes, peeled and seeded, or 2 cups canned whole tomatoes, lightly squeezed
• 1 bay leaf, several sprigs of fresh thyme, and several parsley stems, tied together in a bouquet
• 2 cloves garlic
• 2 cups homemade or low-salt chicken broth or duck stock

For the cassoulet

• 1/4 cup duck fat or olive oil
• 1/2 lb. garlic sausage or sweet Italian sausage that’s not seasoned with fennel
• 3 to 4 duck confit legs
• 1 clove garlic
• Bean stew
• Lamb stew
• 2 cups coarse, unseasoned breadcrumbs, toasted, preferably from a baguette
• Extra chicken broth or duck stock for moistening the cassoulet during baking, if needed

Tip:

Duck fat and confit duck legs are available at www.dartagnan.com, or you can make your own duck confit. 

Make the bean stew: Soak the beans overnight in enough cold water to cover them well. Drain, rinse, and pick through them for stones and damaged beans. In a large saucepan, cover the pig’s foot or ham hock, pork belly or pancetta, and pork rind with cold water. Bring to a boil, simmer for 3 minutes, drain, and rinse in cold water. Reserve. In a large saucepan, cover the beans with lukewarm water. Bring to a boil, drain, and return to the pan. Cover with hot water. Add the carrots, onion, tomato, celery, garlic, and herb bouquet. Bring to a boil, add the reserved pig’s foot or ham hock, pork belly or pancetta, and pork rind. Simmer, covered, for 1-1/2 hours, until completely tender (don’t add salt yet). Transfer to a large pan to cool and reserve the beans in their cooking liquid. Remove the carrot, onion, and herb bouquet; discard. Taste and season with salt and pepper as needed, but be prudent, as the pork parts add a good bit of salty flavor.

Meanwhile, make the lamb stew: Cut the lamb into 2-1/2-inch pieces. Season with salt and pepper. In a large, heavy sauté pan over medium-high heat, melt the duck fat or heat the oil. Sear the lamb pieces until well browned on all sides. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve. Add the carrot and onion, lower the heat to medium, and cover the pan. Sweat the vegetables until tender but not browned, about 6 minutes. Raise the heat, add the white wine, and boil, scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon, until the liquid is reduced by half. Add the reserved lamb and any juices, the tomatoes, herb bouquet, garlic, and broth or stock. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat and simmer, covered, until the lamb is tender, about 1 hour, skimming off the fat and froth as needed. Discard the herb bouquet and reserve the lamb stew until it’s time to assemble the cassoulet.

Assemble the cassoulet: Heat the oven to 250°F. In a medium-size sauté pan over medium-high heat, heat half of the duck fat or olive oil. Add the sausage and brown it on all sides. When cool enough to handle, cut it into six pieces.

Cut the duck confit legs in half at the joint. Rub the garlic clove over the inside of an earthenware casserole, an enameled cast-iron Dutch oven, or a large ceramic soufflé mold. Retrieve the pig’s foot or ham hock, pork rind, and pork belly or pancetta from the bean stew. Discard the pig’s foot or ham hock bones. (If you’ve used a ham hock, tear off any remaining meat and add it to the bean stew.) Cut the pork belly or pancetta into 1/2-inch pieces and reserve. Cut the pork rind into 1/2-inch pieces and scatter them over the bottom of the dish.

With a slotted spoon, transfer one-third of the beans to the dish. Do the same with half the pork belly or pancetta, all of the duck confit, half the lamb stew (again, use a slotted spoon, because you’ll be using the cooking liquid later), and all of the sausage. Cover the meats with another one-third of beans, the remaining pork belly and lamb stew, and finish with the last one-third of beans. Combine the bean juices with the lamb sauce, taste for seasoning (remembering that the duck confit is salty), and pour just enough over the dish to barely cover the beans.

Sprinkle the dish with the breadcrumbs and drizzle the remaining duck fat (melt it first if it’s still solid) or olive oil over the breadcrumbs. Bake for 2-1/2 hours and then raise the heat to 350°F and bake until the crust is a rich golden brown and the cassoulet is bubbling around the edges, about another 30 minutes. Check the cassoulet during baking -- if it’s getting too dry, add more broth or stock; if the crust is browning too quickly, cover it with foil. Let the cassoulet rest for at least 30 minutes before serving. Bring the entire dish to the table and serve each guest some crust, beans, and pieces of the different meats.

Duck Confit Salad with Great Northern Beans

If you’ve got the time, use dried white beans cooked in duck stock instead of the canned beans.

• 3 Tbs. olive oil
• 1 Tbs. red-wine vinegar
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 cups canned Great Northern or navy beans, rinsed and drained well
• 1 cup bite-size pieces duck confit, preferably from the leg and thigh (skin removed)
• 4 cups mesclun or mixed greens
• 1 small fennel bulb, trimmed, outer fibers peeled, bulb halved and sliced as thinly as possible

In a small bowl, whisk the oil into the vinegar; season with salt and pepper. Put the beans, duck, greens, and fennel in a large bowl and toss with the vinaigrette. Adjust the seasonings and serve.