Chocolate Egg Cream

An egg cream is a frothy, indulgent drink that tastes similar to an ice cream soda. My dad made them for me all the time when I was a kid, and he showed me the right way to maximize the glorious foam head and was clear that you need a pretzel rod as an edible stirrer. I make my own simple chocolate syrup instead of using the traditional store-bought one.Visit our Drinks & Entertaining page for more icy cool drink recipies, including our Popsicles for grown-ups.

• 1 Tbs. unsweetened cocoa powder
• 2-1/2 Tbs. sugar
• 1 Tbs. boiling water
• 1/2 cup very cold nonfat milk
• 1-1/2 cups seltzer water (not club soda)
• 1 pretzel rod

In a small cup, mix together the cocoa and sugar. Add the water and stir well until a paste is formed. Put the milk in a tall fountain glass. Slowly add the seltzer water. Stir gently. Drizzle the chocolate syrup in slowly, being careful to disturb the foam as little as possible. Stir gently with a tall spoon. Your drink should be two-toned, chocolate brown on the bottom with white foam on top. Serve with a pretzel rod.

Chocolate Babka with Mascarpone

Babka is an Old World Jewish favorite that has become an almost mythical bakery item because it is so difficult to find these days. My grandmother was a great baker who regularly turned out rugelach, mandelbrot, macaroons, and honey cake. She made a fabulous chocolate babka that I remember with a mixture of nostalgia and regret, since I enjoyed it so much but never asked her to teach me how to make it. When I finally got around to coming up with my own babka recipe, I tried to make it just as wonderfully chocolatey and crumbly as hers. Best-quality European chocolate is essential (I use Callebaut). Babka is often made with cream cheese, but I like mascarpone for the hint of nutty flavor that it gives to the dough, but you may use regular cream cheese in its place if it’s more convenient.

• 2⁄3 cup room temperature milk (70°F to 78°F)
• 2 Tbs. mascarpone cheese
• 1 cup sugar
• 2 large eggs
• 2 large egg yolks
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1⁄2 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
• 20 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 Tbs. instant yeast
• 5 oz. (1-1⁄4 sticks) unsalted butter, softened and cut into bits
• 8 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
• 2 Tbs. heavy cream

Combine the milk, mascarpone cheese, 1⁄2 cup of the sugar, eggs, 1 of the egg yolks, vanilla, and salt in the bowl of a standing mixer. Stir with a rubber spatula to combine. Add the flour and yeast and stir a few times until a rough dough forms. Mix on low speed for a few minutes with the dough hook.

With the mixer running, add the butter, 1 piece at a time, until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and knead until it comes together in a sticky but cohesive mass, 4 to 5 minutes.

With the mixer running, add the butter, 1 piece at a time, until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and knead until it comes together in a sticky but cohesive mass, 4 to 5 minutes.

Grease a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan. Combine the chocolate and the remaining 1⁄2 cup sugar in a medium bowl.

Deflate the dough by gently pressing down on it with your palms. Turn it onto a lightly floured countertop and roll it into a rough 16 by 8-inch rectangle, with the long side facing you.

Sprinkle the chocolate and sugar mixture over the dough. Starting with the long side closest to you, roll the dough into a snug log. Pinch the outside edges to seal.

Fold the log in half and twist it once in the center (giving it a shape like an awareness ribbon). Gently place the folded and twisted dough into the prepared pan. Lightly drape with plastic wrap and let rise until increased in volume by 50 percent, 1 to 2 hours (alter-natively, refrigerate the dough overnight and bring to room temperature before letting it rise and baking it).

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly beat the cream and the remaining egg yolk together in a small bowl. Brush the top of the babka with the egg wash. Bake until the top of the babka is deep golden brown and baked through, about 40 minutes. Overturn the loaf onto a wire rack, and re-invert. Let cool completely before slicing and serving. Chocolate Babka will keep at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 3 days. For longer storage, wrap in plastic wrap and then aluminum foil for up to 1 month. To defrost, place on the countertop for several hours, and reheat in the oven at 350°F for 10 minutes before serving.

Milk Chocolate Ice Cream

This is an ice cream for those who luxuriate in the creaminess of milk chocolate, which is enhanced by the cream in the custard base. Dress yours up for company with roasted strawberries, chocolate sauce, and a dollop of whipped cream. 

• 1-1/2 cups whole milk
• 1-1/2 cups heavy cream
• 1 Tbs. natural cocoa powder
• 1/3 cup granulated sugar
• 7 oz. good-quality milk chocolate, finely chopped
• 8 egg yolks

In a heavy-based saucepan, combine the milk and cream. Sift the cocoa powder over the mixture; whisk thoroughly to combine. Sprinkle about half the sugar into the saucepan and slowly bring the mixture to a simmer; don't let it boil.

Put the chopped chocolate in a medium bowl and fill a large bowl with ice water.

While waiting for the milk mixture to simmer, whisk the egg yolks with the remaining sugar. Whisk vigorously until the yolks thicken and become a paler shade of yellow, 3 to 4 minutes.

To combine the egg and milk mixtures, slowly pour half the simmering milk into the yolks while whisking constantly to temper it. Whisk that mixture back into the milk in the saucepan. Reduce the heat to low and stir constantly with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula in a figure-eight motion until the custard is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon (about 170°F), 10 to 15 minutes.

Pour the cooked custard over the chocolate. Whisk until all the chocolate is melted. Set the custard bowl over the bowl of ice water; stir until the custard is completely cool. Pour through a fine sieve if there are any lumps and then refrigerate for several hours or overnight.

Pour the custard into an ice cream machine with at least a 1-quart capacity and freeze following the manufacturer's directions.

Balsamic Strawberry Ice Cream

In the United States, peanut butter and jelly are considered a perfect match. In Italy, it's the same thing with strawberries and balsamic vinegar, a classic combination that makes a simple, refreshing dessert. If you've never had this stellar pairing, give this frozen version a shot. The vinegar is subtle and adds depth to the bright sweetness of the strawberries.

For the strawberry purée:

• 1-1/2 pints strawberries (3 cups), preferably organic, hulled and halved or quartered
• 2-1/2 Tbs. sugar
• 2 tsp. balsamic vinegar

For the base:

• 5 large egg yolks
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1-3/4 cups heavy cream
• 3/4 cup 1% or 2% milk
• 1/4 tsp. kosher salt
• 2 tsp. balsamic vinegar

Cook the berries:

Combine the berries with the 2-1/2 Tbs. sugar and 2 tsp. vinegar in a large nonreactive skillet. Put the skillet over medium heat and cook, stirring frequently, until the strawberries are soft and the liquid they release has reduced somewhat, 6 to 8 minutes.

Let cool slightly, then transfer the berries and their juice to a blender or food processor. Purée until smooth and refrigerate until ready to use.

Make the base:

In a medium heatproof bowl, whisk the yolks just to break them up, then whisk in half of sugar (1/4 cup). Set aside.

In a heavy nonreactive saucepan, stir together the cream, milk, salt, and the remaining sugar (1/4 cup) and put the pan over medium-high heat. When the mixture approaches a bare simmer, reduce the heat to medium.

Carefully scoop out about 1/2 cup of the hot cream mixture and, whisking the eggs constantly, add the cream to the bowl with the egg yolks. Repeat, adding another 1/2 cup of the hot cream to the bowl with the yolks. Using a heatproof rubber spatula, stir the cream in the saucepan as you slowly pour the egg-and-cream mixture from the bowl into the pan.

Cook the mixture carefully over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it is thickened, coats the back of a spatula, and holds a clear path when you run your finger across the spatula, 1 to 2 minutes longer.

Strain the base through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean container. Set the container into an ice-water bath, wash your spatula, and use it to stir the base occasionally until it is cool. Remove from the ice-water bath, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate the base for at least 2 hours or overnight.

Freeze the ice cream:

Whisk the strawberry purée and the remaining 2 tsp. vinegar into the chilled base.

Freeze in your ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions. While the ice cream is churning, put the container you’ll use to store the ice cream into the freezer. Enjoy right away or, for a firmer ice cream, transfer to the chilled container and freeze for at least 4 hours.

Frothy Hot Chocolate with Homemade Marshmallows

Nothing beats a warm mug of hot chocolate on a cold winter day. Check out the variations to create your own "ultimate" hot chcolate.Browse more hot chocolate recipes, including a white chocolate and a Mexican version, on our Drinks & Entertaining page.

• 3 cups whole milk
• 3 oz. bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped into small bits (1/4-inch pieces are fine)
• Homemade Marshmallows

Bring the milk just to a boil. Put the chocolate in a blender and pour in the hot milk. Let sit for 10 to 15 seconds so the chocolate begins to melt and then cover securely, place a folded towel over the lid, and blend until completely mixed and frothy, about 30 seconds. (Alternatively, you can use a steamer to froth the milk. Add the chocolate, stirring until melted and well blended, and then steam the mixture again for a few seconds more.) Pour into two mugs and top each with a homemade marshmallow.

For unfrothy hot chocolate—Heat the milk in a saucepan until it just begins to boil. Remove the pan from the heat, add the chocolate, and stir or whisk until well blended. Pour into two mugs and top each with a homemade marshmallow.

Yorkshire Pudding

While testing the beef rib roast recipe, we were reminded of its classic companion, Yorkshire pudding. Similar in texture and flavor to a popover, Yorkshire pudding is made with the delicious fat from the drippings left in the roasting pan. To make it without a roast, you can substitute melted butter or bacon fat for the beef fat.

• 1-1/2 cups whole milk
• 3 large eggs
• Kosher salt
• 6-3/4 oz. (1-1/2 cups) all-purpose flour
• 3 oz. (6 Tbs.) rendered beef fat

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 450°F. In a medium bowl, whisk together the milk, eggs, and 1/2 tsp. salt until smooth. Whisk in the flour just until incorporated; the batter will be lumpy. pour the fat into a metal 9x13-inch baking pan and put the pan in the oven until hot, about 5 minutes.

Remove the pan from the oven and pour the batter into the hot fat. Bake until puffed and browned, about 20 minutes. Serve immediately.

Classic Vanilla Tres Leches Cake

This is the ultimate summer party cake, and its simplicity lends itself well to many variations and ways of dressing it up. For a few ideas, see the Cafe Con Leche, Coconut, Chocolate, and Boozy Berry versions.

For the cake:

• Unsalted butter, softened, for the pan
• 4-1/2 oz. (1 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1-1/2 tsp. baking powder
• 1/4 tsp. kosher salt
• 5 large eggs, at room temperature
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 1/3 cup whole milk
• 3/4 tsp. pure vanilla extract

For the soaking liquid:

• 1 14-oz. can sweetened condensed milk
• 1 12-oz. can evaporated milk
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• Pinch kosher salt

For the topping:

• 2-1/2 cups heavy cream
• 2 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar
• 1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Bake the cake:

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Butter the bottom and sides of a 9x13-inch Pyrex baking dish or a nonreactive metal pan. Line the bottom of the baking dish or pan with parchment and lightly butter the parchment.

Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt into a medium bowl and set aside.

Separate the eggs, putting the whites in a medium bowl and the yolks in a large bowl. With an electric mixer, beat the yolks with 3/4 cup of the sugar on medium speed until the mixture is pale and creamy, about 2 minutes. Add the milk and vanilla and beat until combined, 1 minute more.

Clean and dry the beaters and then beat the egg whites, gradually increasing the speed to high, until they reach soft peaks, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the remaining 1/4 cup sugar in a stream, continuing to beat on high, until you reach firm but not dry peaks, 1 to 2 minutes more. Whisk a third of the dry ingredients into the yolk mixture until thoroughly combined. Gently fold in a third of the egg whites with a rubber spatula. Fold in the remaining dry ingredients and egg whites, alternately, in two more batches each, until fully incorporated.

Pour the batter into the prepared dish or pan and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes. Let the cake cool in the pan on a rack for 10 minutes, then invert the cake onto the rack, remove the parchment, and let cool completely.

Return the cake to the baking dish or pan (the cake will soak up more of the liquid if returned to the pan it was baked in), or invert it onto a rimmed platter.

Soak the cake:

In a 2-quart saucepan, stir together the condensed milk, evaporated milk, heavy cream, and salt until the condensed milk is well blended. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring to avoid scorching, until it begins to bubble around the edges, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and pour into a heatproof 4-cup measuring cup.

With a toothpick, prick the cake to the bottom in 1/2-inch intervals. Pour the soaking liquid slowly over the cake, starting at the edges and pausing to let it soak in before adding more. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate until the cake is well chilled, at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours.

Top the cake:

In a large bowl, beat the heavy cream with an electric mixer on medium speed. When it begins to thicken, slowly add the sugar and vanilla and continue to beat just until it holds firm peaks, 3 to 4 minutes (be careful not to overbeat). Spread the whipped cream all over the top of the cake and serve.

Chocolate Babka with Mascarpone

Babka is an Old World Jewish favorite that has become an almost mythical bakery item because it is so difficult to find these days. My grandmother was a great baker who regularly turned out rugelach, mandelbrot, macaroons, and honey cake. She made a fabulous chocolate babka that I remember with a mixture of nostalgia and regret, since I enjoyed it so much but never asked her to teach me how to make it. When I finally got around to coming up with my own babka recipe, I tried to make it just as wonderfully chocolatey and crumbly as hers. Best-quality European chocolate is essential (I use Callebaut). Babka is often made with cream cheese, but I like mascarpone for the hint of nutty flavor that it gives to the dough, but you may use regular cream cheese in its place if it’s more convenient.

• 2⁄3 cup room temperature milk (70°F to 78°F)
• 2 Tbs. mascarpone cheese
• 1 cup sugar
• 2 large eggs
• 2 large egg yolks
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1⁄2 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
• 20 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 Tbs. instant yeast
• 5 oz. (1-1⁄4 sticks) unsalted butter, softened and cut into bits
• 8 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
• 2 Tbs. heavy cream

Combine the milk, mascarpone cheese, 1⁄2 cup of the sugar, eggs, 1 of the egg yolks, vanilla, and salt in the bowl of a standing mixer. Stir with a rubber spatula to combine. Add the flour and yeast and stir a few times until a rough dough forms. Mix on low speed for a few minutes with the dough hook.

With the mixer running, add the butter, 1 piece at a time, until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and knead until it comes together in a sticky but cohesive mass, 4 to 5 minutes.

With the mixer running, add the butter, 1 piece at a time, until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and knead until it comes together in a sticky but cohesive mass, 4 to 5 minutes.

Grease a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan. Combine the chocolate and the remaining 1⁄2 cup sugar in a medium bowl.

Deflate the dough by gently pressing down on it with your palms. Turn it onto a lightly floured countertop and roll it into a rough 16 by 8-inch rectangle, with the long side facing you.

Sprinkle the chocolate and sugar mixture over the dough. Starting with the long side closest to you, roll the dough into a snug log. Pinch the outside edges to seal.

Fold the log in half and twist it once in the center (giving it a shape like an awareness ribbon). Gently place the folded and twisted dough into the prepared pan. Lightly drape with plastic wrap and let rise until increased in volume by 50 percent, 1 to 2 hours (alter-natively, refrigerate the dough overnight and bring to room temperature before letting it rise and baking it).

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly beat the cream and the remaining egg yolk together in a small bowl. Brush the top of the babka with the egg wash. Bake until the top of the babka is deep golden brown and baked through, about 40 minutes. Overturn the loaf onto a wire rack, and re-invert. Let cool completely before slicing and serving. Chocolate Babka will keep at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 3 days. For longer storage, wrap in plastic wrap and then aluminum foil for up to 1 month. To defrost, place on the countertop for several hours, and reheat in the oven at 350°F for 10 minutes before serving.

Jelly-Filled Doughnuts

This recipe uses a leaner, less sugary dough than your typical American jelly doughnut. For the best results, use either homemade preserves or best-quality local jam you can find. If your jam is very chunky, purée it in a blender or small food processor so that it will pass without effort through the tip of a pastry bag and into the doughnut.

• 17.62 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1⁄3 cup sugar, plus more for coating the doughnuts
• 1 Tbs. plus 1-1⁄2 tsp. instant yeast
• 3⁄4 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
• 1 cup room temperature milk (70°F to 78°F)
• 2.5 oz. (5 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
• 2 large eggs
• 2 large egg yolks
• 1 tsp. grated lemon zest
• 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• Vegetable oil, for frying
• 6 Tbs. raspberry jam

Combine the flour, sugar, yeast, salt, milk, butter, eggs, egg yolks, lemon zest, and vanilla in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (the hook is not needed here, since this is a rather loose batter) and mix on low speed until smooth, 8 to 10 minutes.

Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or dough-rising container, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature until doubled in volume, about 1 hour.

Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment or waxed paper. Brush a thin layer of vegetable oil on the paper. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured countertop and divide into 16 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a round and then flatten slightly with the palm of your hand. Place the rounds seam side down on the oiled paper. Let stand uncovered at room temperature until doubled in volume, about 1 hour.

Add 3 inches of oil to a deep pot. Attach a candy thermometer to the side of the pot and heat the oil over medium heat until it reaches 350°F. Line a large platter or baking sheet with several layers of paper towels.

Place a few of the doughnuts in the hot oil, being careful not to crowd them in the pot.

Fry until golden brown on one side, about 1 minute. Turn and continue to fry until golden on both sides, another minute or two. Don’t worry that there is a line of light-colored dough around the perimeter of each doughnut. This will be the “soft spot” where you will insert the tip of a pastry bag to pipe in some jam. Drain the cooked doughnuts on the paper towels, roll them in sugar, and repeat with the remaining dough, keeping an eye on the thermometer to make sure the oil stays at a steady 350°F and adjusting the heat as necessary.

To fill the doughnuts, place the jam in a bowl and stir it thoroughly so that there are no lumps. Scrape it into a pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip. Insert the tip into the soft spot of each doughnut and squeeze about 1 tsp. of the jam into the center. Serve immediately.

Crumpets

Like many Americans, I always assumed that crumpets were close relatives of English muffins (an assumption that apparently infuriates the British!). When I tasted my first crumpet at the Crumpet Shop in Seattle, I was blown away. It was a little bit spongy and had beautiful holes on top, perfect for absorbing farm-fresh butter and local honey.They were so delicious that it’s a shame there’s not a Crumpet Shop on every corner. But there’s a reason why most bakeries shy away from making crumpets. They’re best when made to order. If they sit around for even a couple of hours, to me they won’t have the same just-griddled goodness.At that moment, I knew I wanted to develop a yeasted crumpet recipe of my own. It thought it would be so much fun to stand around the kitchen with friends and family on a rainy day and serve them hot from the griddle, with cups of steaming tea. The result more than lived up to my fantasy. Try them. If you are like me, you will always remember where you had your first crumpet! 

• 6.11 oz. (1-2⁄3 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 8.04 oz. (2 cups) unbleached bread flour
• 3⁄4 tsp. cream of tartar
• 1 Tbs.plus 1⁄2 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
• 2 cups room temperature water (70°F to 78°F), plus more if necessary
• 2-1⁄4 tsp. instant yeast
• 1⁄2 tsp. sugar
• 1⁄2 tsp. baking soda
• 2⁄3 cup room temperature milk (70°F to 78°F)
• Unsalted butter, for greasing the cake rings

Place the all-purpose flour, bread flour, cream of tartar, and salt in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Stir to combine.

Whisk together the water, yeast, and sugar in a medium bowl and let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes.

Pour the water mixture into the flour mixture and mix on low speed to combine. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature for 1 to 1-1⁄2 hours.

Dissolve the baking soda in the milk, and then pour the milk mixture into the bowl with the batter. Stir gently to combine. The batter should now be the consistency of pancake batter. If it’s too stiff, your crumpets won’t have enough of those characteristic bubbles and holes, so, if necessary, add more water, a tablespoon at a time, to reach the right consistency.

Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Grease several 4-inch cake rings with butter.

Place the cake rings in the skillet and pour some batter into each ring so they’re three-quarters full. Cook until holes begin to form on the surface, 7 to 8 minutes. Remove the rings, flip the crumpets, and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, until nicely toasted. Serve immediately with butter. For longer storage, freeze in a zipper-lock plastic bag for up to 1 month. To defrost, place on the countertop for 15 to 30 minutes, and reheat in the oven at 350°F for 5 minutes before serving.

Chocolate Egg Cream

An egg cream is a frothy, indulgent drink that tastes similar to an ice cream soda. My dad made them for me all the time when I was a kid, and he showed me the right way to maximize the glorious foam head and was clear that you need a pretzel rod as an edible stirrer. I make my own simple chocolate syrup instead of using the traditional store-bought one.Visit our Drinks & Entertaining page for more icy cool drink recipies, including our Popsicles for grown-ups.

• 1 Tbs. unsweetened cocoa powder
• 2-1/2 Tbs. sugar
• 1 Tbs. boiling water
• 1/2 cup very cold nonfat milk
• 1-1/2 cups seltzer water (not club soda)
• 1 pretzel rod

In a small cup, mix together the cocoa and sugar. Add the water and stir well until a paste is formed. Put the milk in a tall fountain glass. Slowly add the seltzer water. Stir gently. Drizzle the chocolate syrup in slowly, being careful to disturb the foam as little as possible. Stir gently with a tall spoon. Your drink should be two-toned, chocolate brown on the bottom with white foam on top. Serve with a pretzel rod.