Chocolate Babka with Mascarpone

Babka is an Old World Jewish favorite that has become an almost mythical bakery item because it is so difficult to find these days. My grandmother was a great baker who regularly turned out rugelach, mandelbrot, macaroons, and honey cake. She made a fabulous chocolate babka that I remember with a mixture of nostalgia and regret, since I enjoyed it so much but never asked her to teach me how to make it. When I finally got around to coming up with my own babka recipe, I tried to make it just as wonderfully chocolatey and crumbly as hers. Best-quality European chocolate is essential (I use Callebaut). Babka is often made with cream cheese, but I like mascarpone for the hint of nutty flavor that it gives to the dough, but you may use regular cream cheese in its place if it’s more convenient.

• 2⁄3 cup room temperature milk (70°F to 78°F)
• 2 Tbs. mascarpone cheese
• 1 cup sugar
• 2 large eggs
• 2 large egg yolks
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1⁄2 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
• 20 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 Tbs. instant yeast
• 5 oz. (1-1⁄4 sticks) unsalted butter, softened and cut into bits
• 8 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
• 2 Tbs. heavy cream

Combine the milk, mascarpone cheese, 1⁄2 cup of the sugar, eggs, 1 of the egg yolks, vanilla, and salt in the bowl of a standing mixer. Stir with a rubber spatula to combine. Add the flour and yeast and stir a few times until a rough dough forms. Mix on low speed for a few minutes with the dough hook.

With the mixer running, add the butter, 1 piece at a time, until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and knead until it comes together in a sticky but cohesive mass, 4 to 5 minutes.

With the mixer running, add the butter, 1 piece at a time, until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and knead until it comes together in a sticky but cohesive mass, 4 to 5 minutes.

Grease a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan. Combine the chocolate and the remaining 1⁄2 cup sugar in a medium bowl.

Deflate the dough by gently pressing down on it with your palms. Turn it onto a lightly floured countertop and roll it into a rough 16 by 8-inch rectangle, with the long side facing you.

Sprinkle the chocolate and sugar mixture over the dough. Starting with the long side closest to you, roll the dough into a snug log. Pinch the outside edges to seal.

Fold the log in half and twist it once in the center (giving it a shape like an awareness ribbon). Gently place the folded and twisted dough into the prepared pan. Lightly drape with plastic wrap and let rise until increased in volume by 50 percent, 1 to 2 hours (alter-natively, refrigerate the dough overnight and bring to room temperature before letting it rise and baking it).

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly beat the cream and the remaining egg yolk together in a small bowl. Brush the top of the babka with the egg wash. Bake until the top of the babka is deep golden brown and baked through, about 40 minutes. Overturn the loaf onto a wire rack, and re-invert. Let cool completely before slicing and serving. Chocolate Babka will keep at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 3 days. For longer storage, wrap in plastic wrap and then aluminum foil for up to 1 month. To defrost, place on the countertop for several hours, and reheat in the oven at 350°F for 10 minutes before serving.

Chocolate Babka with Mascarpone

Babka is an Old World Jewish favorite that has become an almost mythical bakery item because it is so difficult to find these days. My grandmother was a great baker who regularly turned out rugelach, mandelbrot, macaroons, and honey cake. She made a fabulous chocolate babka that I remember with a mixture of nostalgia and regret, since I enjoyed it so much but never asked her to teach me how to make it. When I finally got around to coming up with my own babka recipe, I tried to make it just as wonderfully chocolatey and crumbly as hers. Best-quality European chocolate is essential (I use Callebaut). Babka is often made with cream cheese, but I like mascarpone for the hint of nutty flavor that it gives to the dough, but you may use regular cream cheese in its place if it’s more convenient.

• 2⁄3 cup room temperature milk (70°F to 78°F)
• 2 Tbs. mascarpone cheese
• 1 cup sugar
• 2 large eggs
• 2 large egg yolks
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1⁄2 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
• 20 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 Tbs. instant yeast
• 5 oz. (1-1⁄4 sticks) unsalted butter, softened and cut into bits
• 8 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
• 2 Tbs. heavy cream

Combine the milk, mascarpone cheese, 1⁄2 cup of the sugar, eggs, 1 of the egg yolks, vanilla, and salt in the bowl of a standing mixer. Stir with a rubber spatula to combine. Add the flour and yeast and stir a few times until a rough dough forms. Mix on low speed for a few minutes with the dough hook.

With the mixer running, add the butter, 1 piece at a time, until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and knead until it comes together in a sticky but cohesive mass, 4 to 5 minutes.

With the mixer running, add the butter, 1 piece at a time, until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and knead until it comes together in a sticky but cohesive mass, 4 to 5 minutes.

Grease a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan. Combine the chocolate and the remaining 1⁄2 cup sugar in a medium bowl.

Deflate the dough by gently pressing down on it with your palms. Turn it onto a lightly floured countertop and roll it into a rough 16 by 8-inch rectangle, with the long side facing you.

Sprinkle the chocolate and sugar mixture over the dough. Starting with the long side closest to you, roll the dough into a snug log. Pinch the outside edges to seal.

Fold the log in half and twist it once in the center (giving it a shape like an awareness ribbon). Gently place the folded and twisted dough into the prepared pan. Lightly drape with plastic wrap and let rise until increased in volume by 50 percent, 1 to 2 hours (alter-natively, refrigerate the dough overnight and bring to room temperature before letting it rise and baking it).

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly beat the cream and the remaining egg yolk together in a small bowl. Brush the top of the babka with the egg wash. Bake until the top of the babka is deep golden brown and baked through, about 40 minutes. Overturn the loaf onto a wire rack, and re-invert. Let cool completely before slicing and serving. Chocolate Babka will keep at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 3 days. For longer storage, wrap in plastic wrap and then aluminum foil for up to 1 month. To defrost, place on the countertop for several hours, and reheat in the oven at 350°F for 10 minutes before serving.

Jelly-Filled Doughnuts

This recipe uses a leaner, less sugary dough than your typical American jelly doughnut. For the best results, use either homemade preserves or best-quality local jam you can find. If your jam is very chunky, purée it in a blender or small food processor so that it will pass without effort through the tip of a pastry bag and into the doughnut.

• 17.62 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1⁄3 cup sugar, plus more for coating the doughnuts
• 1 Tbs. plus 1-1⁄2 tsp. instant yeast
• 3⁄4 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
• 1 cup room temperature milk (70°F to 78°F)
• 2.5 oz. (5 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
• 2 large eggs
• 2 large egg yolks
• 1 tsp. grated lemon zest
• 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• Vegetable oil, for frying
• 6 Tbs. raspberry jam

Combine the flour, sugar, yeast, salt, milk, butter, eggs, egg yolks, lemon zest, and vanilla in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (the hook is not needed here, since this is a rather loose batter) and mix on low speed until smooth, 8 to 10 minutes.

Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or dough-rising container, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature until doubled in volume, about 1 hour.

Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment or waxed paper. Brush a thin layer of vegetable oil on the paper. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured countertop and divide into 16 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a round and then flatten slightly with the palm of your hand. Place the rounds seam side down on the oiled paper. Let stand uncovered at room temperature until doubled in volume, about 1 hour.

Add 3 inches of oil to a deep pot. Attach a candy thermometer to the side of the pot and heat the oil over medium heat until it reaches 350°F. Line a large platter or baking sheet with several layers of paper towels.

Place a few of the doughnuts in the hot oil, being careful not to crowd them in the pot.

Fry until golden brown on one side, about 1 minute. Turn and continue to fry until golden on both sides, another minute or two. Don’t worry that there is a line of light-colored dough around the perimeter of each doughnut. This will be the “soft spot” where you will insert the tip of a pastry bag to pipe in some jam. Drain the cooked doughnuts on the paper towels, roll them in sugar, and repeat with the remaining dough, keeping an eye on the thermometer to make sure the oil stays at a steady 350°F and adjusting the heat as necessary.

To fill the doughnuts, place the jam in a bowl and stir it thoroughly so that there are no lumps. Scrape it into a pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip. Insert the tip into the soft spot of each doughnut and squeeze about 1 tsp. of the jam into the center. Serve immediately.

Crumpets

Like many Americans, I always assumed that crumpets were close relatives of English muffins (an assumption that apparently infuriates the British!). When I tasted my first crumpet at the Crumpet Shop in Seattle, I was blown away. It was a little bit spongy and had beautiful holes on top, perfect for absorbing farm-fresh butter and local honey.They were so delicious that it’s a shame there’s not a Crumpet Shop on every corner. But there’s a reason why most bakeries shy away from making crumpets. They’re best when made to order. If they sit around for even a couple of hours, to me they won’t have the same just-griddled goodness.At that moment, I knew I wanted to develop a yeasted crumpet recipe of my own. It thought it would be so much fun to stand around the kitchen with friends and family on a rainy day and serve them hot from the griddle, with cups of steaming tea. The result more than lived up to my fantasy. Try them. If you are like me, you will always remember where you had your first crumpet! 

• 6.11 oz. (1-2⁄3 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 8.04 oz. (2 cups) unbleached bread flour
• 3⁄4 tsp. cream of tartar
• 1 Tbs.plus 1⁄2 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
• 2 cups room temperature water (70°F to 78°F), plus more if necessary
• 2-1⁄4 tsp. instant yeast
• 1⁄2 tsp. sugar
• 1⁄2 tsp. baking soda
• 2⁄3 cup room temperature milk (70°F to 78°F)
• Unsalted butter, for greasing the cake rings

Place the all-purpose flour, bread flour, cream of tartar, and salt in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Stir to combine.

Whisk together the water, yeast, and sugar in a medium bowl and let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes.

Pour the water mixture into the flour mixture and mix on low speed to combine. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature for 1 to 1-1⁄2 hours.

Dissolve the baking soda in the milk, and then pour the milk mixture into the bowl with the batter. Stir gently to combine. The batter should now be the consistency of pancake batter. If it’s too stiff, your crumpets won’t have enough of those characteristic bubbles and holes, so, if necessary, add more water, a tablespoon at a time, to reach the right consistency.

Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Grease several 4-inch cake rings with butter.

Place the cake rings in the skillet and pour some batter into each ring so they’re three-quarters full. Cook until holes begin to form on the surface, 7 to 8 minutes. Remove the rings, flip the crumpets, and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, until nicely toasted. Serve immediately with butter. For longer storage, freeze in a zipper-lock plastic bag for up to 1 month. To defrost, place on the countertop for 15 to 30 minutes, and reheat in the oven at 350°F for 5 minutes before serving.

Cider Doughnuts

When my children were small, cider doughnuts were one of the only sweet treats they were allowed. How could I say no to such special yeasted pastries, especially when they were available only briefly in the fall? Now that the children are grown up and connoisseurs of all things sweet, including éclairs, tiramisu, and gelato, they still come running when I make these childhood favorites at home. The recipe is straightforward and relatively simple. Reducing the apple cider before adding it to the dough gives the doughnuts full apple flavor.

• 1-1⁄4 cups apple cider
• 17.62 oz. (3-1⁄2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. instant yeast
• 2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1-1⁄3 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
• 2.5 oz. (5 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
• 1 cup sugar
• 3 large egg yolks
• 2⁄3 cup room temperature buttermilk (70°F to 78°F)
• Vegetable oil, for frying
• Cinnamon sugar (about 1⁄4 cup should do it)

Bring the apple cider to a boil in a medium saucepan. Boil until it is reduced to 1⁄4 cup, 7 to 10 minutes. Pour into a glass measuring cup and let cool to room temperature. Combine the flour, yeast, cinnamon, and salt in a medium bowl and set aside.

Place the butter and sugar in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Cream together on medium-high speed until well-combined, about 3 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl once or twice as necessary. Add the egg yolks and beat, scraping down the sides of the bowl once or twice as necessary, until smooth. Add the cooled cider and the buttermilk and beat until combined. Stir in the flour mixture until just combined. Do not overmix!

Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or dough-rising container, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature until it is puffy and slightly risen, about 1-1⁄2 hours.

Line 2 baking sheets with parchment or waxed paper and sprinkle generously with flour. Turn the dough out onto one of them and sprinkle the top of the dough with flour.

Flatten the dough with your hands until it is about 1⁄2 inch thick, sprinkling on more flour if necessary to prevent sticking. Place the baking sheet in the freezer until the dough is slightly hardened, about 20 minutes.

Remove the dough from the freezer and use a 3-inch doughnut cutter to cut as many doughnut shapes as you can. Place the cut doughnuts and the doughnut holes on the second baking sheet. Re-roll and cut the scraps. Refrigerate the cut doughnuts and holes for 20 to 30 minutes.

Add 3 inches of oil to a deep pot. Attach a candy thermometer to the side of the pot and heat the oil over medium heat until it reaches 350°F. Line a large platter or another baking sheet with several layers of paper towels.

Carefully add a few doughnuts to the pot, being careful not to crowd them. Fry until golden brown on one side, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Turn and continue to fry until golden on both sides, another 30 seconds to 1 minute. Drain the cooked doughnuts on the paper towels, and repeat with the remaining doughnuts, keeping an eye on the thermometer to make sure the oil stays at a steady 350°F and adjusting the heat as necessary.

Roll the warm doughnuts in cinnamon sugar and serve warm.