Grilled Flank Steak with Sesame Sauce & Grilled Scallions

• 1-1/2 lb. flank steak
• 1-1/2 tsp. kosher salt
• 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup plus 1 Tbs. soy sauce
• 1/4 cup canola oil; more for the grill
• 1/4 cup minced fresh ginger
• 1-1/2 Tbs. minced garlic
• 3 Tbs. rice vinegar
• 2 Tbs. Asian sesame oil
• 1-1/2 Tbs. light or dark brown sugar
• 2 tsp. cornstarch
• 20 scallions (preferably thick ones), roots trimmed
• 1 Tbs. sesame seeds, toasted

Season the flank steak with 1 tsp. of the salt and the pepper. Mix 1 Tbs. of the soy sauce, 1 Tbs. of the canola oil, 2 Tbs. of the ginger, and 1 Tbs. of the garlic in a large zip-top plastic bag. Add the steak and turn and massage it in the bag to cover it with the marinade. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours or as long as overnight.

Heat 1-1/2 Tbs. of the canola oil and the remaining 2 Tbs. ginger and 1/2 Tbs. garlic in a small saucepan over medium heat until the ginger and garlic sizzle steadily and just begin to brown around the edges, about 3 min. Add 1/3 cup water, the remaining 1/4 cup soy sauce, and the rice vinegar, sesame oil, and brown sugar. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. In a small bowl, whisk the cornstarch with 2 tsp. of water and stir it into the soy mixture. Cook until it returns to a boil and thickens slightly, about 1 min. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Heat a gas grill to medium high or prepare a fire on a charcoal grill with a medium-hot and a low zone. Rinse the scallions but do not dry them. Toss the scallions with the remaining 1-1/2 Tbs. canola oil and 1/2 tsp. salt.

Clean and oil the grill grates. Grill the steak (over the hotter zone if using charcoal), covered, until it has good grill marks, 5 to 6 min. Flip and reduce the heat to medium if using a gas grill or transfer the steak to the cooler part of the charcoal fire. Cook, covered, until the steak is done to your liking, 4 to 5 min. for medium rare (cut into the steak to check). Transfer to a large cutting board, brush with about a third of the sesame sauce, and let rest for 5 to 10 min.

While the steak rests, clean and oil the grill grates, set the scallions on the grill (over the cooler zone if using charcoal), and cook until they have good grill marks, 2 to 4 min. Flip and cook until they’re tender, 2 to 4 min. Transfer to a large platter and drizzle with a couple of tablespoons of the sesame sauce.

Slice the steak thinly and serve with the scallions, a drizzle of the remaining sesame sauce, and a sprinkling of sesame seeds.

Quick-Braised Peas, Lettuce & Scallions

Although young peas are better, you can use mature peas here—just cook them longer. And you can use pea broth instead of chicken broth. You can serve this dish with grilled spring lamb, but it also goes well with chicken, duck, and fish.

• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 10 scallions (white and light green parts), halved lengthwise
• 2 cups fresh shelled peas (from about 2 lb. unshelled) or frozen peas
• 1 medium head butter lettuce, leaves separated, washed, and dried
• 1/2 cup lower-salt chicken broth or water
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh mint
• 1 Tbs. crème fraîche

Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Add the scallions and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to soften, 2 to 3 minutes (don’t let them brown). Increase the heat to medium, add the peas and lettuce and continue to cook, tossing with tongs, until the lettuce begins to wilt, 2 minutes more. Add the broth and a pinch of salt and pepper. Stir well and bring to a simmer.

Reduce the heat to medium low, cover, and simmer until the peas are just tender, 5 to 8 minutes for fresh peas, 3 to 4 minutes for frozen. Remove the lid and add the mint and crème fraîche. Stir well and simmer 2 minutes more to meld the flavors. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Couscous with Cilantro & Melted Scallions

This quick side dish can be put together in a matter of minutes. I keep a bunch of scallions in the vegetable bin at all times to add to mashed potatoes, couscous, and salads.

• 1/4 cup unsalted butter
• 1 bunch scallions (whites and 2 inches of greens), minced (about 1/2 cup)
• 1/3 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
• 10-oz. (1-1/2 cups, or 1 box) couscous
• 3 cups homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Juice of 1/2 lemon or lime

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over low heat, add the scallions, and cook, covered, until tender, about 8 minutes. Add the cilantro, couscous, broth, 1/2 tsp. salt, and pepper to taste. Stir, bring to a boil over high heat, cover, and remove from the heat. Set aside for 5 minutes. Fluff the couscous with a fork. Taste for salt, add a large grinding of pepper, and season with some of the lemon or lime juice.

Snow Pea, Scallion, and Radish Salad

The lively flavors and eye-catching look of this salad, excerpted from the cookbook The Food You Crave, are testament to how much just a few ingredients can accomplish when they are put together with care.

• 2 cups (8 oz.) snow peas, trimmed
• 2 scallions (white and green parts), thinly sliced
• 4 radishes, trimmed and cut into thin strips (about 1/2 cup)
• 1/4 cup rice vinegar
• 2 tsp. granulated sugar
• 1 Tbs. walnut or canola oil

Put the snow peas in a microwave-safe bowl with 1 Tbs. water. Cover tightly and microwave for 1 minute. Drain and let cool. Cut the snow peas on the diagonal into 1/2-inch diamond shapes, discarding the end pieces.

In a medium serving bowl, combine the snow peas, scallions, and radishes. In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, sugar, and oil until the sugar dissolves. Pour over the salad and serve.

Sautéed Carrots with Ginger, Orange, and Scallions

This side dish is citrusy, slightly sweet, and incredibly adaptable. You can use grapefruit juice instead of orange juice, vary the amounts of ginger and garlic, or substitute lemon zest for lime zest. If you don’t have a lid for your 12-inch skillet, cover it with foil.

• 1/4 cup fresh orange juice
• 4 tsp. mild honey, such as clover
• 4 tsp. lower-sodium soy sauce
• 1/2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter, chilled
• 4 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 lb. medium carrots, cut into 2-inch-long, 1/4-inch thick sticks
• Kosher salt
• 1/3 cup thinly sliced scallions, white and light-green parts only, from about 3 large scallions
• 2 tsp. minced fresh ginger (from a 3/4-inch piece)
• 1 tsp. minced garlic
• 1 Tbs. thinly sliced cilantro, mint, parsley, or chives (or a combination)

In a small bowl, combine the orange juice, honey, soy sauce, and lemon zest. Whisk until the honey is dissolved; set aside.

In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat 4 tsp. of the butter and the olive oil over medium heat. Add the carrots and 1/2 tsp. salt and stir to coat. Cover the pan partially and cook, stirring and tossing occasionally at first and more frequently as the carrots begin to brown, until the carrots are nicely browned on most sides and just barely tender, 15 ‡to 18 ‡minutes. Add the scallions, ginger, and garlic and cook, uncovered, stirring gently, until fragrant, 15 ‡to 20 ‡seconds. Add the juice mixture and stir gently until the liquid reduces a bit and becomes syrupy, another 15 ‡to 20 ‡seconds. Remove the pan from the heat, add the remaining 2 ‡tsp. butter and half of the herbs, and toss gently. Season to taste with salt. Transfer the carrots to a serving platter, garnish with the remaining herbs, and serve.

Forty Shades of Green Salad

I named this light, refreshing salad after a famous song by Johnny Cash about Ireland. It’s a nice starter or side for spring menus.

For the vinaigrette:

• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. fresh lime juice
• 1 tsp. honey
• Big pinch of kosher salt
• 1 coarse grind of fresh pepper

For the salad:

• 1 large head Boston lettuce, largest outer leaves and damaged leaves removed, washed, dried, and torn into bite-size pieces
• 3/4 cup loosely packed fresh parsley leaves (I like a mix of flat and curly)
• 1 large (or 1-1/2 small) Belgian endive, damaged leaves removed, halved lengthwise, cored and thinly sliced crosswise (1/4 inch)
• 2 to 3 scallions (white and light green part only), very thinly sliced on the diagonal
• 1 small ripe but firm avocado

Make the vinaigrette:

In a small bowl, combine all the vinaigrette ingredients and whisk until thoroughly emulsified (it will look creamy).

Make the salad:

In a large mixing bowl, combine the lettuce, parsley, endive, and scallions. Gently toss the greens thoroughly with about 2 Tbs. of the vinaigrette. Mound the greens onto four salad plates (white looks nice), arranging any endive and parsley pieces that have fallen to the bottom of the bowl on top.

Cut the avocado in half and remove the pit. Slide a large spoon between the skin and flesh to peel each half. Slice the avocado halves crosswise in very thin half-moons (1/8 inch thick).

With the flat side of a chef’s knife, transfer the avocado halves to the mixing bowl, fan them out slightly, drizzle over another 1 Tbs. of the vinaigrette, and gently toss just to coat the avocado, keeping the slices somewhat together. Arrange a little pile of avocado slices on one quarter of the salad, propped up against the mound of leaves. Drizzle the whole salad with a tiny bit more vinaigrette and serve right away.

Mixed Green Salad with Grilled Scallions, Mango, and Cilantro-Lime Vinaigrette

The addition of mango and cilantro and the chile-lime make this salad pair well with either Indian cuisine or Latin American dishes.

• 3 Tbs. fresh lime juice
• 1 tsp. honey
• 2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro
• 1/2 tsp. minced Serrano chile (including seeds)
• Kosher salt
• 1/4 cup plus 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 large bunches scallions (6 oz.), trimmed
• 5 oz. (5 cups) mixed baby greens
• 1 large mango, peeled, cut from pit, and thinly sliced 
• 1/3 cup coarsely chopped salted peanuts

Prepare a medium-high gas or charcoal grill fire or heat a grill pan over medium-high heat.

In a small bowl, combine the lime juice, honey, cilantro, Serrano, and a pinch of salt. Gradually whisk in the 1/4 cup of oil.

Toss the scallions with the remaining 1 Tbs. of oil and 1/2 tsp. salt. Grill the scallions until tender and lightly charred all over, 4 to 6 minutes. Cool slightly, then slice into 1/2-inch pieces.

In a large bowl toss the greens with enough vinaigrette to lightly coat. Add the scallions, mango, and peanuts. Toss and serve.

Quick-Braised Peas, Lettuce & Scallions

Although young peas are better, you can use mature peas here—just cook them longer. And you can use pea broth instead of chicken broth. You can serve this dish with grilled spring lamb, but it also goes well with chicken, duck, and fish.

• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 10 scallions (white and light green parts), halved lengthwise
• 2 cups fresh shelled peas (from about 2 lb. unshelled) or frozen peas
• 1 medium head butter lettuce, leaves separated, washed, and dried
• 1/2 cup lower-salt chicken broth or water
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh mint
• 1 Tbs. crème fraîche

Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Add the scallions and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to soften, 2 to 3 minutes (don’t let them brown). Increase the heat to medium, add the peas and lettuce and continue to cook, tossing with tongs, until the lettuce begins to wilt, 2 minutes more. Add the broth and a pinch of salt and pepper. Stir well and bring to a simmer.

Reduce the heat to medium low, cover, and simmer until the peas are just tender, 5 to 8 minutes for fresh peas, 3 to 4 minutes for frozen. Remove the lid and add the mint and crème fraîche. Stir well and simmer 2 minutes more to meld the flavors. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Couscous with Cilantro & Melted Scallions

This quick side dish can be put together in a matter of minutes. I keep a bunch of scallions in the vegetable bin at all times to add to mashed potatoes, couscous, and salads.

• 1/4 cup unsalted butter
• 1 bunch scallions (whites and 2 inches of greens), minced (about 1/2 cup)
• 1/3 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
• 10-oz. (1-1/2 cups, or 1 box) couscous
• 3 cups homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Juice of 1/2 lemon or lime

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over low heat, add the scallions, and cook, covered, until tender, about 8 minutes. Add the cilantro, couscous, broth, 1/2 tsp. salt, and pepper to taste. Stir, bring to a boil over high heat, cover, and remove from the heat. Set aside for 5 minutes. Fluff the couscous with a fork. Taste for salt, add a large grinding of pepper, and season with some of the lemon or lime juice.

Chinese Egg and Scallion Dumplings (Jiao Zi)

One of the easiest dumpling fillings to prepare, this version is a favorite with vegetarians and children.Web extra: Watch Thy Tran’s step-by-step demonstration of how to make the dumplings.

For the dough:

• 6-3/4 oz. (1-1/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more for kneading

For the filling:

• 4 large eggs
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 1/2 tsp. toasted Asian sesame oil
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 1 cup thinly sliced scallions

To finish the dumplings:

• Kosher salt, as needed (for boiled dumplings)
• Vegetable oil, as needed (for pan-fried dumplings)
• 1 recipe Ginger Vinegar or Scallion-Soy Dipping Sauce

Make the dough:

Pour the flour into a mound on a clean work surface. Make a deep, wide well in the center and pour in 1/2 cup cold water. Stir with your fingers, staying in the center at first and being careful that the water doesn’t breach the wall. Little by little, using your hand and a bench knife, mix in flour from the sides until the dough starts to come together. (Alternatively, put the flour in a medium bowl. Make a well, add the water, and stir first with a spoon and then your hand.) If the dough remains in shreds, sprinkle in additional water, a teaspoon at a time, until it begins to stick together. Don’t add too much water or the dough will be difficult to work.


Knead the dough for 5 minutes to form a smooth, firm, elastic ball. (If you began the dough in a bowl, lightly dust a clean, dry surface with flour before kneading.) The dough should not be sticky and should bounce back when pressed with a fingertip. Divide in half with a bench knife and roll into two 6-inch logs. Sprinkle each log evenly with flour, cover with a clean kitchen towel, and let rest for at least 30 minutes at room temperature before rolling and filling.

Make the filling:

In a small bowl, lightly beat the eggs with 1/2 tsp. salt and 1/4 tsp. pepper.


Heat the vegetable and sesame oils in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the eggs and cook, stirring occasionally with a heatproof rubber spatula, until large curds form, 30 to 40 seconds. Add the scallions and stir to mix evenly. Continue cooking until the eggs are cooked through but still moist, a few seconds more. Transfer to a bowl and let cool.

Cut and roll the dough:

Cut each log in half crosswise. Cut each half crosswise into thirds, and then slice each of those pieces into three even coins. You should have 36 pieces of equal size. Toss the pieces in flour to coat evenly and then cover with a clean towel so they don’t dry out.


Using a small rolling pin, roll a piece of dough into a thin 3-inch circle; with the dough in one hand and the pin in the other, roll from the edges toward the center as you rotate the dough. This rolling technique helps create a round with thin edges and a thicker center.

Fill and shape the dumplings:

Tip:

If you have helpers, set up an assembly line and roll out each wrapper, then pass it along to the next person to fill. If you're filling all the dumplings yourself, it's best to roll out several wrappers, and keep them covered with a kitchen towel as you fill them, to prevent them from drying out.

Spoon 1 to 2 tsp. of the filling onto a dough circle, fold it in half, and then if you’re going to boil the dumplings, seal it by pinching along the curved edge. If you’re planning to pan-fry the dumplings for pot stickers, make your first pinch at the center of the curved edge and then pleat toward the center on both sides to create a rounded belly. This wider shape allows the dumplings to sit upright in the pan and form a flat surface for browning.


Repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling. As you work, arrange the filled dumplings in a single layer without touching on large plates, so they don’t stick together.

To cook: either boil the dumplings...

Bring a large (7- to 8-quart) pot of salted water to a boil. Working in 2 or 3 batches to avoid overcrowding, quickly add the dumplings one at a time, making sure they don’t stick to each other. Lower the heat to medium and continue to boil, gently stirring occasionally, until the dumplings float and are cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and serve immediately with your choice of dipping sauce.

...or pan-fry the dumplings:

Heat 2 Tbs. vegetable oil in a heavy-duty 10- or 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Working quickly and in batches if necessary (adding more oil for the second batch if needed), arrange the dumplings belly side down in concentric circles starting from the outer edge. Cook until golden brown on the bottom, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour in about 1/2 cup water or enough to come about a third of the way up the sides of the dumplings, bring to a boil, cover, and cook until all of the water has been absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the lid, reduce the heat to medium, and continue cooking just until the dumplings are dry and crisp on the bottom, 1 to 2 minutes. Loosen the dumplings from the pan with a spatula. Invert the pan over a plate to flip the dumplings, browned side up, onto the plate (or transfer with a spatula). Serve immediately with your choice of dipping sauce.

Roast Lemon-Parsley Chicken Drums and Carrots with Fettuccine

Use Filippo Berio® Olive Oil to put a new spin on an old classic. Place freshly roasted chicken drums over a bed of fettuccine for a flavorful and creative entrée that tastes as good as it looks.

• Filippo Berio® Extra Virgin Olive Oil or
  Filippo Berio® Olive Oil
• 3-1/2 to 4 lb. chicken drumsticks
• 3 tsp. salt, divided
• 1 lb. baby carrots
• 2 bunches scallions, all parts, cut in 2-inch-long pieces
• 1/4 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
• Grated zest of 1 lemon
• 8 to 10 oz. fresh fettuccine

Heat the oven to 425°F. Using a mister or pastry brush dipped in olive oil, coat a 17 x 12-inch metal baking sheet with sides (or two smaller pans with sides). Place the drumsticks on the pan. Season on all sides with 1/4 tsp. salt. Bake for 20 minutes.

Remove the pan from the oven. Add the carrots, scallions, parsley, lemon zest, 3/4 tsp. of salt, and 2 Tbs. of oil. With a pancake turner, toss thoroughly to combine the vegetables and seasonings. Spread in a single layer.

Bake for about 25 minutes, turning occasionally, or until no pink remains at the chicken bone and the carrots are tender.

Meanwhile, place a covered large pot of water over high heat. When the water boils, add 2 tsp. of salt and the fettuccine. Stir. Cover and return to a boil. Uncover and boil, stirring occasionally, for about 3 minutes, or until tender. Drain and return to the pot.

If the chicken skin is not well browned, heat the oven broiler. Broil the chicken 6 inches from the heat source for about 3 minutes, or until browned. Remove the drumsticks to a platter. Add the carrots, scallions, and pan juices to the fettuccine. Toss to combine.

French-Style Potato Salad

Wine flavors are subtle but important in this salad, so use a wine you wouldn't mind drinking. I like to keep the potato skins on both for looks and nutrition.

• 2 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, scrubbed but not peeled
• 1-1/3 cups dry white wine (or 1/2 cup white-wine vinegar)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 Tbs. minced shallot
• 2/3 cup chopped scallions

Boil the whole unpeeled potatoes in generously salted water until fork-tender, 20 to 30 minutes., depending on size. As soon as you can handle the potatoes but while they're still warm, slice them just under 1/2 inch thick with a very sharp knife.

In a small saucepan over medium heat, boil the wine until it's reduced by half. (If using vinegar, don't cook it.) Sprinkle the salt, white pepper, and hot reduced wine (or the vinegar) over the warm potatoes; toss gently. Add the olive oil, tossing just until combined, and then add the shallots and scallions. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Serve at room temperature.

Quick-Braised Peas, Lettuce & Scallions

Although young peas are better, you can use mature peas here—just cook them longer. And you can use pea broth instead of chicken broth. You can serve this dish with grilled spring lamb, but it also goes well with chicken, duck, and fish.

• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 10 scallions (white and light green parts), halved lengthwise
• 2 cups fresh shelled peas (from about 2 lb. unshelled) or frozen peas
• 1 medium head butter lettuce, leaves separated, washed, and dried
• 1/2 cup lower-salt chicken broth or water
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh mint
• 1 Tbs. crème fraîche

Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Add the scallions and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to soften, 2 to 3 minutes (don’t let them brown). Increase the heat to medium, add the peas and lettuce and continue to cook, tossing with tongs, until the lettuce begins to wilt, 2 minutes more. Add the broth and a pinch of salt and pepper. Stir well and bring to a simmer.

Reduce the heat to medium low, cover, and simmer until the peas are just tender, 5 to 8 minutes for fresh peas, 3 to 4 minutes for frozen. Remove the lid and add the mint and crème fraîche. Stir well and simmer 2 minutes more to meld the flavors. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Summer Corn Chowder with Scallions, Bacon & Potatoes

When you've got fresh corn coming out of your ears, use them in this quick, satisfying soup, which uses the cobs to infuse even more corn flavor into the broth.

• 5 ears fresh corn
• 7 oz. scallions (about 20 medium)
• 3 slices bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 jalapeño, cored, seeded, and finely diced
• 1 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 3-1/2 cups low-salt chicken broth
• 1 large Yukon Gold potato (8 to 9 oz.), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 1-1/2 cups)
• 1-1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• 2 Tbs. heavy cream

Husk the corn and cut off the kernels. Reserve two of the corn cobs and discard the others. Trim and thinly slice the scallions, keeping the dark-green parts separate from the white and light-green parts.

Cook the bacon in a 3- or 4-qt. saucepan over medium heat until browned and crisp, about 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a paper-towel-lined plate. Pour off and discard all but about 1 Tbs. of the bacon fat. Return the pan to medium heat and add the butter. When the butter is melted, add the white and light-green scallions and the jalapeño, salt, and a few grinds of black pepper. Cook, stirring, until the scallions are very soft, about 3 min.

Add the broth, corn, corn cobs, potatoes, and thyme and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer until the potatoes are completely tender, about 15 min. Discard the corn cobs.

Transfer 1 cup of the broth and vegetables to a blender and puree. Return the puree to the pot and stir in the cream and all but 1/3 cup of the scallion greens. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for a couple of minutes to wilt the scallions and blend the flavors. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve sprinkled with the bacon and reserved scallions.

Shanghai Scallion Pancakes

These pan-fried flatbreads are crisp outside, slightly flaky inside, and rich with the flavor of scallions, cilantro, and sesame. Also called Shanghai onion bread, they’re very delicious, and very addictive.

• 4 cups (18 oz.) all-purpose flour
• 1-1/2 cups boiling water
• 1/4 cup toasted sesame oil
• 2 tsp. coarse salt; more for sprinkling
• 1/4 cup minced scallions
• 1/4 cup minced fresh cilantro
• 6 Tbs. sesame seeds, toasted in a dry skillet until golden
• About 1-1/4 cups peanut oil

Put the flour in a large bowl (I use a wooden salad bowl). Add the boiling water and stir until a shaggy dough forms. Gather the scraps together, pressing and kneading to form a dough ball. Knead the dough in the bowl or on a work surface, floured if necessary, until soft but not very sticky, about 8 minutes. The dough should be light and not very resilient; when you stick your finger in, a slight indentation should remain. Cover the dough with a damp towel and let rest for 15 minutes. Knead for another 3 minutes.

Put the sesame oil in a small bowl. Shape the dough into an even cylinder. Cut the cylinder into 8 equal pieces. Use a rolling pin to roll one piece into a 6-inch round. Brush the top with the sesame oil and then sprinkle on about 1/4 tsp. salt, about 1/2 Tbs. each scallions and cilantro, and about 2 tsp. toasted sesame seeds. Roll up the pancake tightly, stretching to lengthen it slightly. Tie the ends of the cylinder around as if you were forming a knot. Flatten the knotted ball on a lightly floured surface with your palm and then roll it out again into a 6-inch round. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough.

Roll out a piece of the divided dough into a 6-inch round and brush with sesame oil. Sprinkle liberally with salt, scallions cilantro and toasted sesame seeds.

Roll up the round very tightly, as you would a cigar, stretching the dough as you roll to lengthen it a bit.

Tie the ends around as if you were forming a knot, but stop before one end protrudes through the center hole.

Flatten the knot with your palm and then roll it out again into a 6-inch round. This creates layers of dough with the herbs pressed right in.

In a large heavy skillet, pour enough peanut oil to come to a depth of 1/4 inch. Heat the oil to 380°F (a rice noodle will puff into a curlicue within 3 seconds or a cube of bread will turn golden in 15 seconds). Fry one or two pancakes at a time until both sides are golden and slightly crisp, 2-1/2 to 3 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle immediately with coarse salt. Serve hot.

Scallion pancakes cook to golden crispness in about 5 minutes. A sprinkling of coarse salt and they're ready to serve.

Snow Pea, Scallion, and Radish Salad

The lively flavors and eye-catching look of this salad, excerpted from the cookbook The Food You Crave, are testament to how much just a few ingredients can accomplish when they are put together with care.

• 2 cups (8 oz.) snow peas, trimmed
• 2 scallions (white and green parts), thinly sliced
• 4 radishes, trimmed and cut into thin strips (about 1/2 cup)
• 1/4 cup rice vinegar
• 2 tsp. granulated sugar
• 1 Tbs. walnut or canola oil

Put the snow peas in a microwave-safe bowl with 1 Tbs. water. Cover tightly and microwave for 1 minute. Drain and let cool. Cut the snow peas on the diagonal into 1/2-inch diamond shapes, discarding the end pieces.

In a medium serving bowl, combine the snow peas, scallions, and radishes. In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, sugar, and oil until the sugar dissolves. Pour over the salad and serve.

Couscous with Cilantro & Melted Scallions

This quick side dish can be put together in a matter of minutes. I keep a bunch of scallions in the vegetable bin at all times to add to mashed potatoes, couscous, and salads.

• 1/4 cup unsalted butter
• 1 bunch scallions (whites and 2 inches of greens), minced (about 1/2 cup)
• 1/3 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
• 10-oz. (1-1/2 cups, or 1 box) couscous
• 3 cups homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Juice of 1/2 lemon or lime

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over low heat, add the scallions, and cook, covered, until tender, about 8 minutes. Add the cilantro, couscous, broth, 1/2 tsp. salt, and pepper to taste. Stir, bring to a boil over high heat, cover, and remove from the heat. Set aside for 5 minutes. Fluff the couscous with a fork. Taste for salt, add a large grinding of pepper, and season with some of the lemon or lime juice.

Pork Lo Mein with Seared Scallions & Shiitakes

You can usually find Chinese noodles in the produce section of the supermarket.

• 3/4 lb. boneless pork country-style ribs, cut into 1/4-inch-wide strips
• 2-1/2 Tbs. soy sauce; more to taste
• 2 Tbs. dry sherry
• 1 tsp. cornstarch
• 2 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. kosher salt
• 9 oz. fresh Chinese noodles
• 5 Tbs. canola or peanut oil
• 6 oz. scallions (14 to 16 medium), trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
• 3-1/2 to 4 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, caps thinly sliced (2 cups)
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
• 3 cups thinly sliced napa cabbage (about 6 oz.)
• 2 cups mung bean sprouts, rinsed
• 2 tsp. Asian sesame oil

In a medium bowl, toss the pork with 1 Tbs. of the soy sauce, 1 Tbs. of the sherry, the cornstarch, and 1/4 tsp. of the salt. Refrigerate for at least 15 min. and up to 1 hour.

Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot. Add 2 Tbs. of the salt and cook the noodles, stirring occasionally, until just tender, about 3 min. Drain in a colander and run under cold water until the noodles cool to about room temperature. Turn the noodles out onto a baking sheet lined with paper towels to dry.

Heat 1-1/2 Tbs. of the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the noodles and cook, tossing occasionally, until golden and slightly crisp, about 6 min. Meanwhile, replace the damp paper towels on the baking sheet with dry ones. When golden, transfer the noodles to the dry towels.

Heat 1-1/2 Tbs. of the oil in the nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add the pork and cook, tossing often, until browned and just cooked through, 2 to 3 min. Transfer to a plate or bowl. Pour the remaining 2 Tbs. oil into the skillet and then add the scallions, mushrooms, and 1/4 tsp. of the salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, 3 to 4 min. Add the ginger, garlic, and pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until fragrant, 30 to 60 seconds. Add the cabbage, bean sprouts, and the remaining  1/2 tsp. salt. Cook, stirring often, until the cabbage just starts to soften, 1 to 2 min.

Add the noodles and pork to the pan and cook, stirring, until heated through, 1 to 2 min. Add the remaining 1-1/2 Tbs. soy sauce, the remaining 1 Tbs. sherry, and the sesame oil and cook, tossing the ingredients, for 1 min. more. Serve immediately. Add more soy sauce to taste or pass the soy sauce at the table.

Chinese Egg and Scallion Dumplings (Jiao Zi)

One of the easiest dumpling fillings to prepare, this version is a favorite with vegetarians and children.Web extra: Watch Thy Tran’s step-by-step demonstration of how to make the dumplings.

For the dough:

• 6-3/4 oz. (1-1/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more for kneading

For the filling:

• 4 large eggs
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 1/2 tsp. toasted Asian sesame oil
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 1 cup thinly sliced scallions

To finish the dumplings:

• Kosher salt, as needed (for boiled dumplings)
• Vegetable oil, as needed (for pan-fried dumplings)
• 1 recipe Ginger Vinegar or Scallion-Soy Dipping Sauce

Make the dough:

Pour the flour into a mound on a clean work surface. Make a deep, wide well in the center and pour in 1/2 cup cold water. Stir with your fingers, staying in the center at first and being careful that the water doesn’t breach the wall. Little by little, using your hand and a bench knife, mix in flour from the sides until the dough starts to come together. (Alternatively, put the flour in a medium bowl. Make a well, add the water, and stir first with a spoon and then your hand.) If the dough remains in shreds, sprinkle in additional water, a teaspoon at a time, until it begins to stick together. Don’t add too much water or the dough will be difficult to work.


Knead the dough for 5 minutes to form a smooth, firm, elastic ball. (If you began the dough in a bowl, lightly dust a clean, dry surface with flour before kneading.) The dough should not be sticky and should bounce back when pressed with a fingertip. Divide in half with a bench knife and roll into two 6-inch logs. Sprinkle each log evenly with flour, cover with a clean kitchen towel, and let rest for at least 30 minutes at room temperature before rolling and filling.

Make the filling:

In a small bowl, lightly beat the eggs with 1/2 tsp. salt and 1/4 tsp. pepper.


Heat the vegetable and sesame oils in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the eggs and cook, stirring occasionally with a heatproof rubber spatula, until large curds form, 30 to 40 seconds. Add the scallions and stir to mix evenly. Continue cooking until the eggs are cooked through but still moist, a few seconds more. Transfer to a bowl and let cool.

Cut and roll the dough:

Cut each log in half crosswise. Cut each half crosswise into thirds, and then slice each of those pieces into three even coins. You should have 36 pieces of equal size. Toss the pieces in flour to coat evenly and then cover with a clean towel so they don’t dry out.


Using a small rolling pin, roll a piece of dough into a thin 3-inch circle; with the dough in one hand and the pin in the other, roll from the edges toward the center as you rotate the dough. This rolling technique helps create a round with thin edges and a thicker center.

Fill and shape the dumplings:

Tip:

If you have helpers, set up an assembly line and roll out each wrapper, then pass it along to the next person to fill. If you're filling all the dumplings yourself, it's best to roll out several wrappers, and keep them covered with a kitchen towel as you fill them, to prevent them from drying out.

Spoon 1 to 2 tsp. of the filling onto a dough circle, fold it in half, and then if you’re going to boil the dumplings, seal it by pinching along the curved edge. If you’re planning to pan-fry the dumplings for pot stickers, make your first pinch at the center of the curved edge and then pleat toward the center on both sides to create a rounded belly. This wider shape allows the dumplings to sit upright in the pan and form a flat surface for browning.


Repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling. As you work, arrange the filled dumplings in a single layer without touching on large plates, so they don’t stick together.

To cook: either boil the dumplings...

Bring a large (7- to 8-quart) pot of salted water to a boil. Working in 2 or 3 batches to avoid overcrowding, quickly add the dumplings one at a time, making sure they don’t stick to each other. Lower the heat to medium and continue to boil, gently stirring occasionally, until the dumplings float and are cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and serve immediately with your choice of dipping sauce.

...or pan-fry the dumplings:

Heat 2 Tbs. vegetable oil in a heavy-duty 10- or 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Working quickly and in batches if necessary (adding more oil for the second batch if needed), arrange the dumplings belly side down in concentric circles starting from the outer edge. Cook until golden brown on the bottom, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour in about 1/2 cup water or enough to come about a third of the way up the sides of the dumplings, bring to a boil, cover, and cook until all of the water has been absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the lid, reduce the heat to medium, and continue cooking just until the dumplings are dry and crisp on the bottom, 1 to 2 minutes. Loosen the dumplings from the pan with a spatula. Invert the pan over a plate to flip the dumplings, browned side up, onto the plate (or transfer with a spatula). Serve immediately with your choice of dipping sauce.

Forty Shades of Green Salad

I named this light, refreshing salad after a famous song by Johnny Cash about Ireland. It’s a nice starter or side for spring menus.

For the vinaigrette:

• 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. fresh lime juice
• 1 tsp. honey
• Big pinch of kosher salt
• 1 coarse grind of fresh pepper

For the salad:

• 1 large head Boston lettuce, largest outer leaves and damaged leaves removed, washed, dried, and torn into bite-size pieces
• 3/4 cup loosely packed fresh parsley leaves (I like a mix of flat and curly)
• 1 large (or 1-1/2 small) Belgian endive, damaged leaves removed, halved lengthwise, cored and thinly sliced crosswise (1/4 inch)
• 2 to 3 scallions (white and light green part only), very thinly sliced on the diagonal
• 1 small ripe but firm avocado

Make the vinaigrette:

In a small bowl, combine all the vinaigrette ingredients and whisk until thoroughly emulsified (it will look creamy).

Make the salad:

In a large mixing bowl, combine the lettuce, parsley, endive, and scallions. Gently toss the greens thoroughly with about 2 Tbs. of the vinaigrette. Mound the greens onto four salad plates (white looks nice), arranging any endive and parsley pieces that have fallen to the bottom of the bowl on top.

Cut the avocado in half and remove the pit. Slide a large spoon between the skin and flesh to peel each half. Slice the avocado halves crosswise in very thin half-moons (1/8 inch thick).

With the flat side of a chef’s knife, transfer the avocado halves to the mixing bowl, fan them out slightly, drizzle over another 1 Tbs. of the vinaigrette, and gently toss just to coat the avocado, keeping the slices somewhat together. Arrange a little pile of avocado slices on one quarter of the salad, propped up against the mound of leaves. Drizzle the whole salad with a tiny bit more vinaigrette and serve right away.