Grilled Sesame Beef

Use as a filling for Summer Rolls.

• 1 Tbs. fish sauce
• 2 tsp. soy sauce
• 2 tsp. toasted sesame oil
• 1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
• 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 3/4 lb. beef flank steak
• 2 Tbs. sesame seeds

In a medium bowl, combine the fish sauce, soy sauce, toasted sesame oil, sugar, and pepper; stir until the sugar dissolves. Add the beef and turn to coat well. Set aside for 30 minutes or cover and refrigerate for up to one day.

Heat an oiled grill or grill pan until very hot. Remove the meat from the marinade and let the excess drip off. Grill the beef until nicely browned on one side, 4 to 5 min. Turn and cook until browned on the other side and done to your liking, another 4 to 5 min. for medium rare. Transfer to a cutting board and set aside to cool to room temperature.

While the steak cools, toast the sesame seeds in a small dry frying pan over medium heat, shaking the pan and stirring until they’re lightly browned and fragrant, about 3 min. Spread the seeds on a small plate to cool.

Slice the steak across the grain into 4- to 6-inch-long, slender (about 1/8- to 1/4-inch-thick) strips. You should have at least 16 strips. Sprinkle on the toasted sesame seeds, toss to distribute them evenly, transfer to a plate, cover, and refrigerate until ready to roll. Use in Summer Rolls.

Vietnamese Chicken with Ginger

This dish uses the classic Vietnamese braising method that uses caramelized sugar as the base for the braising liquid. If you can find Chinese brown sugar (check out its Ingredient Discovery profile to learn more), it will give the braise a deep, complex flavor.

• 1/2 cup plus 2 Tbs. water
• 2-1/2 oz. Chinese brown sugar (about 1 plank) or 1/3 cup granulated white sugar
• 3 Tbs. olive oil
• 1 medium shallot, thinly sliced into rings (a scant 1/4-cup)
• 1-1/2 oz. fresh ginger, unpeeled and cut into matchsticks (about 1/2 cup)
• 3 lb. skin-on chicken thighs, excess fat trimmed, cut in halves crosswise with a cleaver or by your butcher, and seasoned generously with kosher salt
• 3 Tbs. fish sauce
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
• 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 tsp. dried red chile flakes
• 3 scallions (whites and greens), thinly sliced into rings, for garnish

Have ready 1/2 cup water. If using Chinese brown sugar, put it and 2 Tbs. water in a 10-inch straight-sided skillet over medium heat. Stir frequently with a wooden spoon, chopping up the sugar with the spoon until it dissolves completely, 4 to 5 minutes. (If using white sugar, put it—without the water—in a 10-inch straight-sided skillet over medium. Cook until it starts to melt at the edges and turn golden brown, about 5 minutes.)

Reduce the heat to medium low and continue cooking, stirring constantly if using brown sugar or gently swirling the pan if using white sugar, until the bubbling caramel darkens to a reddish brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and, with your face averted to avoid steam and spatters, carefully pour the 1/2 cup water into the pan. The caramel may harden; if it does, set the pan over medium-high heat and stir until it dissolves. Stir the liquid to blend in the caramel and pour it into a heatproof measuring cup or bowl.

Wipe out the pan and heat the olive oil over medium high. Add the shallot and ginger and cook, stirring frequently, until they’re softened and starting to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.

Set the skillet back over high heat. Add the seasoned chicken pieces and cook until they lose their raw color on the outside, about 2 minutes per side; the pan will be crowded and the chicken needn’t brown. Stir in the fish sauce, salt, pepper, chile flakes, and reserved caramel. Reduce the heat to medium and cook at a vigorous simmer, turning the chicken every few minutes, until the chicken is cooked through (cut into a piece to check), about 20 minutes. Stir in the reserved ginger and shallot and cook for 3 to 4 minutes to blend the flavors. Transfer to a serving plate and garnish with the scallion rings.

Sweet-and-Sour Dipping Sauce

A classic dipping sauce in both Vietnam (where it’s called nuoc cham) and Cambodia (where it’s called tuk trey), this combination of fish sauce, lime juice, chile, and sugar is perfect for serving with Pork and Shrimp Summer Rolls. If you have any extra, toss it with shredded cabbage for an Asian coleslaw.

• 1/4 cup packed palm sugar or light brown sugar
• 1/4 cup fish sauce
• 1 small clove garlic, minced
• 1 small fresh red Thai bird chile, thinly sliced
• 1/4 to 1/3 cup fresh lime juice (from about 2 medium limes)

In a small bowl, whisk the sugar and fish sauce until the sugar is completely dissolved and the mixture is syrupy. Stir in 2 Tbs. water, the garlic, chile, and lime juice to taste.

Ginger-Sesame-Tofu Summer Rolls

These vegetarian rolls make the perfect starter for a Vietnamese or Thai dinner. Use the firmest tofu you can find for this recipe and handle it carefully, as even firm tofu can break fairly easily. Serve with Pineapple-Lime Dipping Sauce.

For the tofu filling:

• 14 oz. firm tofu
• 3 Tbs. soy sauce
• 2 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh ginger
• 1 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 2 tsp. toasted sesame oil
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil

For the rolls:

• 6-1/2 oz. thin dried rice noodles
• 16 large round rice paper wrappers (about 8 inches in diameter); plus a few extra in case of breakage
• 20 leaves bibb or Boston lettuce, cut crosswise into 1-inch-wide strips (to yield about 5 cups loosely packed strips)
• 1 cup packed fresh mint leaves
• 1 cup packed fresh cilantro or basil leaves, or a mix
• 4 scallions, trimmed, cut into 4-inch-long pieces, and sliced lengthwise into thin strips

Make the Filling:

Lay the block of tofu flat on a cutting board and slice it lengthwise into four even pieces. Flip each piece onto its wide side and slice again into four even pieces to get a total of 16 long (about 4-1/2-inch) rectangular strips. Lay the tofu strips on a paper towel and pat them dry. In a small (about 11x7-inch) baking dish, combine the soy sauce, ginger, sugar, sesame oil, and salt. Stir until the sugar and salt dissolve. Add the tofu strips and carefully turn them until they’re evenly coated with the marinade. Let the tofu stand at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes, turning once. (Or marinate the tofu for up to 2 hours, covered, in the refrigerator.)

Gently transfer the tofu from the marinade to a platter, brushing off any ginger clinging to it. Blot the tofu dry with paper towels. Heat the vegetable oil in a medium (10-inch) nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Carefully add half of the tofu strips. Cook until nicely browned on one side, 1 to 2 min., and then gently turn with a spatula to brown the opposite side, another 1 to 2 minutes. Return the cooked tofu to the platter and cook the remaining tofu in the same manner. Let the tofu cool to room temperature or refrigerate, covered, until ready to roll.

Assemble the Rolls:

Bring a medium saucepan of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Drop in the rice noodles. Remove the pan from the heat and let stand for 8 to 10 minutes, gently lifting and stirring the noodles now and then as they soften, to cook them evenly and to keep them from clumping. Drain the noodles in a colander and rinse them with cold water to stop the cooking. You should have about 4 cups cooked noodles.

Arrange the noodles, rice paper wrappers, lettuce, herbs, scallions, and cooled tofu around a large cutting board or tray set before you. Have a platter nearby for the finished rolls.

Fill a large skillet halfway with very warm water. Slide a sheet of rice paper into the water and press gently to submerge it until it becomes very pliable, 15 to 30 seconds. Remove the rice paper carefully, shaking gently to help excess water drain off, and lay it before you on a cutting board or tray. (If the water becomes too cool to soften the paper, reheat it briefly on the stove.)

Starting on the lowest third of the wrapper and working away from you, line up a narrow tangle of noodles (about 1/4 cup), a row of lettuce strips (about 1/4 cup), 5 to 7 good-size mint leaves, a row of cilantro or basil leaves, and a row of scallion strips. Leave about 1 inch of empty space along the wrapper's bottom and side edges.

Starting from the edge closest to you, roll the wrapper up and over the fillings. Stop after the first turn to tuck and compress everything snugly into the wrapper. Once the first turn is good and tight, fold the right and left sides of the wrapper in onto the roll, closing off the ends, as though making an envelope.

Just above the cylinder you've already rolled, lay one strip of tofu. Roll the wrapper tightly, all the way to the top, and press the seam closed. If the wrapper is too dry to stick, dip your finger in the water and run it along the paper to moisten and then press the seam closed. Set the roll, seam side down, on the platter. Continue to fill and roll up the rice paper sheets until you've made 16 rolls. (Don't let the finished rolls touch one another or they'll stick.) Serve immediately (or drape a damp dishtowel over the rolls, wrap the platter tightly in plastic, and serve within two hours.)

Master Recipe for Cool Noodle Salads

If you like, prepare the greens and garnishes in advance and refrigerate. Cook the noodles up to two hours ahead and keep at room temperature. At serving time, you'll just have to prepare the toppings.

For the greens:

• 2 cups washed and shredded romaine, red, or green leaf lettuce
• 2 cups fresh, crisp bean sprouts
• 1-1/2 cups peeled, seeded, and julienned cucumber
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup roughly chopped or small whole mint leaves
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup roughly chopped or small basil or Thai basil leaves

For the garnishes:

• 2 Tbs. chopped roasted peanuts
• 12 sprigs fresh cilantro
• Nuoc cham (Vietnamese Dipping Sauce) 

For the noodles:

• 8 oz. dried rice vermicelli

For the Topping:

• 1 recipe for Warm Lemon Grass Shrimp, Vietnamese Grilled Pork, or Stir-Fried Vegetables.

For the greens and herbs: Divide the lettuce, bean sprouts, cucumber, mint, and basil among four large soup or pasta bowls. If working ahead of time, cover each bowl with damp paper towels and refrigerate.

For the garnishes: Set peanuts aside. Make 1 recipe nuoc cham and refrigerate.

For the noodles: Bring a medium potful of water to a rolling boil. Add the rice vermicelli and, stirring often, cook them until the strands are soft and white, but still resilient, 3 to 5 minutes. Don't be tempted to undercook them, as they must be fully cooked to absorb the flavors of the dish. Rinse them in a colander under cold water just until they're cool and the water runs clear. Let the noodles drain in the colander for 30 minutes, and then set them aside for up to 2 hours, unrefrigerated.

For the topping: Follow the directions for one of the recipes (Warm Lemongrass Shrimp, Vietnamese Grilled Pork, or Stir-Fried Vegetables). These toppings can be served hot or slightly cooled.

To assemble the salads: Remove the salad bowls from the refrigerator 20 to 30 minutes before serving. The greens and bowl should be cool, not cold. Fluff the noodles with your fingers and divide them among the prepared salad bowls. Put the cooked topping on the noodles and garnish each bowl with the peanuts and cilantro. Pass the nuoc cham at the table; each diner should drizzle about 3 Tbs. over the salad and then toss the salad in the bowl a few times with two forks or chopsticks before eating.

Vietnamese Noodle Salad with Pork Patties (Bún Cha)

• 8 or 9 oz. rice vermicelli noodles (thin rice sticks)
• Kosher salt
• 1/2 cup very thin carrot strips (julienne)
• 1/2 cup very thin daikon radish or jícama strips (julienne)
• 3 tsp. granulated sugar
• 1 tsp. red-wine vinegar
• Vietnamese Dipping Sauce  (nuoc cham)
• 1 lb. ground pork (ask the butcher for coarsely ground pork butt)
• 5 small or 4 large scallions, thinly sliced
• 1-1/2 tsp. fish sauce
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 6 large leaves romaine lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces
• 1 cup roughly chopped fresh mint
• 1 cup roughly chopped fresh cilantro

Soak the rice vermicelli in a large bowl of warm water for 15 min. Meanwhile, bring about 2 quarts water and 1 tsp. kosher salt to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Drain the noodles and add them to the boiling water, stirring with chopsticks to gently separate the strands. When the water returns to a boil (after about 2 min.), drain the noodles in a colander (push the strands against the sides of the colander with chopsticks to help them drain completely). Put the noodles on a platter and fluff them with chopsticks. Set aside until cool, at least 30 min. and up to 2 hours.

Put the carrots and daikon or jícama in a colander. Sprinkle on 1 tsp. of the sugar, the vinegar, and 1/4 tsp. kosher salt and mix well. Let the colander sit in the sink for 10 min., and then gently squeeze the vegetables to get rid of the liquid. Add the vegetables to the bowl of dipping sauce.

Put the pork in a bowl. Add the scallions, the remaining 2 tsp. sugar, the fish sauce, 1/8 tsp. kosher salt, and 1/8 tsp. pepper and mix gently with your hands. Shape the meat into small patties about 2 inches wide and 3/4 inch thick; you should have ten patties.

Grill the patties over a medium- hot gas or charcoal grill, (or in an oiled grill pan or skillet over medium-high heat) until they’re well browned outside and cooked through but still moist inside, 8 to 10 min. on a grill; 15 min. on a grill pan (cut into one to check—it’s fine if the pork is still a little pink inside). Add the cooked patties, still warm, to the bowl of sauce and vegetables and let sit for 5 to 10 min. before serving.

Serve the noodles on the platter, along with the lettuce, mint, and cilantro. Remove the pork patties from the sauce and put them on a different platter. Give everyone a large bowl and let people serve themselves noodles, lettuce, and herbs, then top that with pork patties and a generous drizzle of the dipping sauce and the vegetables in it. Toss gently.

Vietnamese Noodle Salad with Lemongrass Shrimp

Warm lemongrass-scented stir-fried shrimp contrast with the cool rice noodles, crunchy bean sprouts, and cucumbers in this one-dish meal, making an especially refreshing summer supper.

For the noodles:

• 8 oz. dried rice vermicelli

For the shrimp:

• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 2 shallots, thinly sliced
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1 lb. large shrimp, peeled and deveined
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh lemongrass
• 2 cups sliced white mushrooms
• 2 tsp. fish sauce
• 1 tsp. sugar
• Kosher salt to taste

For the garnishes:

• 2 cups washed and shredded romaine, red, or green leaf lettuce
• 2 cups fresh, crisp bean sprouts
• 1-1/2 cups peeled, seeded, and julienned cucumber
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup roughly chopped or small whole mint leaves
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup roughly chopped or small basil or Thai basil leaves
• 2 Tbs. chopped roasted peanuts
• 12 sprigs fresh cilantro
• 1 recipe Nuoc Cham (Vietnamese Dipping Sauce)

Cook the noodles:

Bring a medium potful of water to a rolling boil. Add the rice vermicelli and, stirring often, cook them until the strands are soft and white, but still resilient, 3 to 5 minutes. Don't be tempted to undercook them, as they must be fully cooked to absorb the flavors of the dish. Rinse them in a colander under cold water just until they're cool and the water runs clear. Let the noodles drain in the colander for 30 minutes, and then set them aside for up to 2 hours, unrefrigerated.

Cook the shrimp:

In a large skillet, heat the oil over high heat. Add the shallots and garlic, quickly stirring until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the shrimp and lemongrass; stir-fry for about 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and sprinkle with the fish sauce, sugar, and a little salt. Stir-fry until the shrimp is cooked and the mushrooms are wilted, another 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Assemble the salads:

Divide the lettuce, bean sprouts, cucumber, mint, and basil among four large soup or pasta bowls. Fluff the noodles with your fingers and divide them among the prepared salad bowls. Put the shrimp topping on the noodles and garnish each bowl with the peanuts and cilantro. Pass the nuoc cham at the table; each diner should drizzle about 3 Tbs. over the salad and then toss the salad in the bowl a few times with two forks or chopsticks before eating.

Vietnamese Noodle Salad with Stir-Fried Tofu and Vegetables

A cool noodle salad topped with soy-glazed stir-fried vegetables makes a light, refreshing meal. You can also substitute more unusual vegetables, like Chinese long beans or jícama. Keep in mind that though this dish is meatless, the nuoc cham dressing contains fish sauce; substitute soy sauce for a truly vegetarian version.

For the noodles:

• 8 oz. dried rice vermicelli

For the tofu and vegetables:

• 4 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 8 oz. firm tofu, drained and cut into rectangular strips about 1-inch wide
• 2 shallots, thinly sliced
• 6 dried black mushrooms, soaked in hot water for 30 min., drained, stemmed, and thinly sliced
• 2 cups broccoli florets (cut through their stems into thin slices), blanched in boiling water and drained
• 1-1/2 cups shredded green or Napa cabbage
• 1-1/2 cups thinly sliced bok choy
• 2 Tbs. soy sauce; more or less to taste
• 1/2 red bell pepper, thinly sliced

For the garnishes:

• 2 cups washed and shredded romaine, red, or green leaf lettuce
• 2 cups fresh, crisp bean sprouts
• 1-1/2 cups peeled, seeded, and julienned cucumber
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup roughly chopped or small whole mint leaves
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup roughly chopped or small basil or Thai basil leaves
• 2 Tbs. chopped roasted peanuts
• 12 sprigs fresh cilantro
• 1 recipe Nuoc Cham (Vietnamese Dipping Sauce)

Cook the noodles:

Bring a medium potful of water to a rolling boil. Add the rice vermicelli and, stirring often, cook them until the strands are soft and white, but still resilient, 3 to 5 minutes. Don't be tempted to undercook them, as they must be fully cooked to absorb the flavors of the dish. Rinse them in a colander under cold water just until they're cool and the water runs clear. Let the noodles drain in the colander for 30 minutes, and then set them aside for up to 2 hours, unrefrigerated.

Cook the tofu and vegetables:

Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a nonstick pan or skillet over medium heat. Add the tofu pieces and stir-fry until nicely browned. Remove and drain on paper towels. When cool, cut them into bite-size strips. Set aside.

Heat the remaining oil in a large skillet or sauté pan over high heat. If the pan is smaller than 12 inches, cook the vegetables in two batches. Wait until the oil gets very hot, almost smoking (the vegetables should sizzle during the entire cooking time), and add the shallots, constantly stirring until they become fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add the mushrooms and stir-fry for another 20 seconds. Add the broccoli, cabbage, and bok choy, stir for 30 seconds, and add the red bell pepper. (If the pan gets too dry, sprinkle in 1 to 2 Tbs. water.)

Working quickly, create an open space in the middle of the pan by pushing the vegetables against the edges. Add the soy sauce to the open area. It should sizzle and caramelize slightly, creating a distinctive aroma. Stir the vegetables with the soy sauce a few times and remove from the heat. Toss the vegetables with the tofu.

Assemble the salads:

Divide the lettuce, bean sprouts, cucumber, mint, and basil among four large soup or pasta bowls. Fluff the noodles with your fingers and divide them among the prepared salad bowls. Put the tofu and vegetables on the noodles and garnish each bowl with the peanuts and cilantro. Pass the nuoc cham at the table; each diner should drizzle about 3 Tbs. over the salad and then toss the salad in the bowl a few times with two forks or chopsticks before eating.

Cool Rice Noodle Salad with Shrimp and Ginger-Lime Dressing

While this recipe is for just one person, it can easily be doubled or tripled to serve more. Cooked shrimp make this an easy, no-cook option, but this Vietnamese-inspired salad is also a great vehicle for using leftover grilled steak or chicken. Some chopped, unsalted and dry-roasted peanuts make a great garnish.

For the Dressing

• 1 tsp. finely grated or very finely minced fresh ginger
• 1 to 2 tsp. minced fresh hot green chile, such as jalapeño or serrano
• 1 small clove garlic, minced
• 2 Tbs. lime juice
• 1 Tbs. rice vinegar
• 1 Tbs. fish sauce
• 1-1/2 tsp. granulated sugar

For the salad:

• 2 leaves romaine or red leaf lettuce, chopped or torn into bite-size pieces
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced seeded cucumber
• 1/4 cup finely grated carrot
• 1 oz. thin rice vermicelli, cooked following the package directions and cooled (about 1 cup)
• 1/4 lb. cooked shrimp
• 5 mint leaves, torn
• 1 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh cilantro

In a small bowl, mix the ginger, chile, garlic, lime juice, vinegar, fish sauce, and sugar. Taste and add more of any of the ingredients to get an assertive but tasty balance of flavors.

In a larger bowl, gently toss together the lettuce, cucumber, and carrot. Top with the cooked noodles, shrimp, and herbs. Drizzle with the dressing and toss gently to combine.

Chicken Noodle Soup with Lemongrass

In this cross between Vietnamese pho and Japanese udon noodle soup, fresh udon noodles are the star. Fat and bouncy in texture, they cook faster and tend to be more delicate than dried udon.

• 2-1/2 Tbs. canola oil
• 2 small boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (about 3/4 lb.), butterflied (cut horizontally almost all the way through and then opened like a book)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3 medium shallots (about 4 oz.), peeled and thinly sliced into rings
• 2 stalks lemongrass, trimmed, outer layers discarded, halved lengthwise, and smashed with the side of a chef’s knife
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
• 2 tsp. packed light brown sugar
• 5-1/2 cups lower-salt chicken broth
• 3-1/2 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and quartered (1-1/2 cups)
• 9 oz. fresh udon noodles
• 1 Thai bird chile (or 1 small serrano pepper), sliced into thin rings
• 8 large fresh torn basil leaves; plus sprigs for garnish
• 1 medium lime, half juiced and half cut into wedges
• 1 Tbs. soy sauce; more to taste
• 2 medium scallions, trimmed and sliced, for garnish (optional)
• 1 medium carrot, cut into matchsticks, for garnish (optional)
• 1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish (optional)

Tip:

This soup is also a great destination for shredded, leftover roast chicken in place of the chicken breast. Just add it to the soup along with the chiles, basil, lime juice, and soy sauce.

Heat 1-1/2 Tbs. of the oil in a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season the chicken with 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper, and cook without disturbing until it’s browned and releases easily from the bottom of the pot, about 2 minutes. Flip and cook until the second side is browned and almost firm to the touch (just short of cooked through), 1 to 2 minutes more. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board to cool.


Add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil and the shallots to the pot. Sprinkle with 1/4 tsp. salt, reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring, until the shallots start soften, about 2 minutes. Add the lemongrass, ginger, and brown sugar and cook, stirring, until the ginger and lemongrass sizzle and become fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the chicken broth, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot, and raise the heat to medium high. Bring the broth to a boil and then reduce to a simmer. Add the mushrooms, and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 5 to 7 minutes.


Meanwhile, bring a medium pot of well-salted water to a boil and cook the noodles, stirring, until just tender, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a colander and run under cold water to cool slightly. Drain well.


Use your fingers or the tines of a fork to shred the chicken. Add the chicken and noodles to the broth and cook until the noodles are completely tender and the chicken is cooked through, about 2 minutes. Discard the lemongrass. Stir in the chiles, torn basil, lime juice, and soy sauce; season with more soy to taste. Divide the noodles among 4 large, deep bowls. Ladle the soup over the noodles, and garnish with the basil sprigs and scallions, carrot, and cilantro, if using. Serve with the lime wedges for squeezing.

Pork and Shrimp Summer Rolls

Serve these refreshing rolls with Peanut Dipping Sauce, Sweet and Sour Dipping Sauce, or Spicy Tamarind Dipping Sauce (or all three!) as a snack, a light lunch, or even an hors d’oeuvre.Video: Learn how to assemble these summer rolls.

• 2 oz. thin rice noodles (vermicelli)
• 8 oz. pork tenderloin
• 1 Tbs. plain rice vinegar
• 18 extra-large shrimp (26 to 30 per lb.; preferably wild-caught), peeled and deveined
• 24 large fresh mint leaves
• 6 small to medium lettuce leaves (Bibb or leaf), halved lengthwise and ribs removed
• 1/3 small English cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and thinly sliced crosswise
• 1 large carrot, cut into julienne strips
• 12 8-1/2-inch (22 cm) rice paper rounds

Prepare the filling ingredients:

Bring a 3- to 4-quart saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, soak the noodles in a bowl of cold water until pliable, about 7 minutes. Drain and boil, stirring once or twice, until tender, about 15 seconds. Transfer with tongs to a colander and immediately rinse under cold running water until cool. Drain and transfer to a bowl; cover with plastic wrap until ready to use.

Add the pork and vinegar to the boiling water, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center registers 140°F, about 8 minutes. Transfer with tongs to a cutting board, let cool to room temperature, and then cut crosswise into 24 very thin slices.

In the same water, cook the shrimp just until pink and opaque, about 2 minutes. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold running water until cool. Halve each shrimp lengthwise.

Assemble the rolls:

Arrange the noodles, pork, shrimp, mint, lettuce, cucumber, carrot, and
rice paper wrappers around a work surface. Have a platter nearby for thefinished rolls, and a small bowl of water for wetting your fingers.

Fill a large, shallow, round dish with cold water. Submerge a rice paper wrapper in the water until very pliable, about 1 minute.

Carefully remove the wrapper from the water, gently shaking off excess water. Lay it flat on the work surface and blot dry with a clean kitchen towel.

On the lower third of the wrapper, leaving about 1 inch of space along the side and bottom edges, layer the fillings in the following order: 3 shrimp halves, cut side up; 2 mint leaves, lengthwise; 1 lettuce leaf half, folded or trimmed to fit if necessary; 2 pork slices; 5 or 6 cucumber slices; about 2 Tbs. of the noodles; and about 6 carrot strips.

Wet your fingers to keep the wrapper from sticking to them. Starting with the edge closest to you, fold the wrapper up and over the fillings. Be sure the fillings are snugly compressed but not so tight that the wrapper is strained, or it may rip.

Once the first turn is tight, fold the right and left sides of the wrapper in, closing off the ends as though making an envelope.

Continue rolling the wrapper tightly all the way to the top and press the seam closed. Set the roll seam side down on the platter. Repeat with the remaining wrappers and fillings. Don’t let the finished rolls touch one another or they’ll stick.

Serve the rolls:

Cut the rolls in half on the diagonal, if you like, and serve with your choice of dipping sauces.

Spicy Tamarind Dipping Sauce

Tamarind’s sour flavor is prized in Thai cooking, and in this sauce it’s balanced by the heat of curry paste and the sweetness of honey. Look for pure tamarind paste concentrate imported from Thailand. Any leftover sauce is wonderful with fish or shrimp.

• 3 Tbs. grapeseed oil
• 1 Tbs. Thai red curry paste
• 1-1/4 cups pure tamarind paste concentrate (sometimes labeled Thai sour fruit soup base)
• 1/4 cup honey; more to taste
• 1/4 cup fish sauce
• 1 tsp. Asian chili garlic sauce
• 2 tsp. tapioca starch or cornstarch
• 1 medium scallion, minced
• 1 tsp. minced fresh cilantro
• 1/2 Tbs. toasted sesame seeds

Heat the oil in a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the curry paste and cook, stirring, until fragrant and a shade darker, about 2 minutes. Add 3/4 cup water, the tamarind, honey, fish sauce, and chili garlic sauce; bring to a simmer and cook until slightly reduced, about 5 minutes.

In a small bowl, dilute the tapioca starch or cornstarch with 2 Tbs. water. Whisk into the sauce, and then cook, whisking, until thickened, about 2 minutes. Stir in the scallion and cilantro and sweeten to taste with more honey, if necessary. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature (the sauce will thicken further as it cools). Skim any fat from the surface and discard. Garnish with the sesame seeds.

Vietnamese Noodle Salad with Grilled Pork

A caramelized marinade gives the grilled pork strips a smoky-sweet flavor, contrasting with the cool soft noodles and crunchy vegetables.

For the noodles:

• 8 oz. dried rice vermicelli

For the pork:

• 1/4 cup sugar
• 2 large shallots, sliced, or 5 scallions (white parts only), chopped
• 2 tsp. fish sauce
• 2 tsp. soy sauce
• Pinch salt
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 1-1/2 lb. pork loin or sirloin, sliced into large pieces about 1/4-inch thick

For the garnishes:

• 2 cups washed and shredded romaine, red, or green leaf lettuce
• 2 cups fresh, crisp bean sprouts
• 1-1/2 cups peeled, seeded, and julienned cucumber
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup roughly chopped or small whole mint leaves
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup roughly chopped or small basil or Thai basil leaves
• 2 Tbs. chopped roasted peanuts
• 12 sprigs fresh cilantro
• 1 recipe Nuoc Cham (Vietnamese Dipping Sauce)

Cook the noodles:

Bring a medium potful of water to a rolling boil. Add the rice vermicelli and, stirring often, cook them until the strands are soft and white, but still resilient, 3 to 5 minutes. Don't be tempted to undercook them, as they must be fully cooked to absorb the flavors of the dish. Rinse them in a colander under cold water just until they're cool and the water runs clear. Let the noodles drain in the colander for 30 minutes, and then set them aside for up to 2 hours, unrefrigerated.

Marinate and cook the pork:

Combine the sugar with 1/2 cup water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Stir a few times and allow to simmer until the sauce turns deep brown, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, have some extra hot water ready on a back burner. Once the sauce reaches the desired color, carefully add 4 to 5 Tbs. hot water to slow the cooking and thin the sauce. (Be sure to hold the pan away from you so that none of the hot caramel splatters on you when you add the water.) If necessary, add more hot water. The sauce should only be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Set aside to cool.

Pound the shallots in a mortar and pestle or mince by hand. Transfer the shallots to a mixing bowl and combine with the fish sauce, soy sauce, salt, vegetable oil, and cooled caramel marinade. Stir well to blend. Add the pork slices and let marinate for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, heat a broiler or light a charcoal or gas grill. When the broiler or fire is very hot, cook the pork until just done, about 2 minutes on each side. Let the pork rest for 10 to 15 minutes, and cut into thin strips.

Assemble the salads:

Divide the lettuce, bean sprouts, cucumber, mint, and basil among four large soup or pasta bowls. Fluff the noodles with your fingers and divide them among the prepared salad bowls. Put the grilled pork on the noodles and garnish each bowl with the peanuts and cilantro. Pass the nuoc cham at the table; each diner should drizzle about 3 Tbs. over the salad and then toss the salad in the bowl a few times with two forks or chopsticks before eating.

Peanut Dipping Sauce

Freshly ground peanuts, caramelized curry paste, and a long, slow simmer give this sauce deep, complex flavor. Serve it with Pork and Shrimp Summer Rolls for dipping, and toss any leftovers with noodles or use as a dip for grilled or roasted meats, shrimp, tofu, or raw vegetables.

• 1 Tbs. grapeseed or peanut oil
• 1 Tbs. Thai red curry paste
• 1/2 cup unsalted peanuts, finely ground in a food processor
• 2 Tbs. packed palm sugar or light brown sugar
• 1-1/2 cups unsweetened coconut milk
• 1-1/2 cups lower-salt chicken broth
• 3 Tbs. fresh lime juice (from 1 large lime)
• 2 Tbs. hoisin sauce (preferably Koon Chun)
• 2 Tbs. fish sauce
• 8 fresh Thai basil leaves, minced (optional)

Heat the oil in a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the curry paste and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the peanuts and cook, stirring, until a shade darker, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the sugar and continue to cook, stirring, until melted and lightly caramelized, about 2 minutes. Add the coconut milk, broth, lime juice, hoisin, and fish sauce, whisking until smooth, and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened and reduced to about 1-1/2 cups, about 45 minutes.

Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the basil, if using. Cool the sauce to room temperature.

Sweet-and-Sour Dipping Sauce

A classic dipping sauce in both Vietnam (where it’s called nuoc cham) and Cambodia (where it’s called tuk trey), this combination of fish sauce, lime juice, chile, and sugar is perfect for serving with Pork and Shrimp Summer Rolls. If you have any extra, toss it with shredded cabbage for an Asian coleslaw.

• 1/4 cup packed palm sugar or light brown sugar
• 1/4 cup fish sauce
• 1 small clove garlic, minced
• 1 small fresh red Thai bird chile, thinly sliced
• 1/4 to 1/3 cup fresh lime juice (from about 2 medium limes)

In a small bowl, whisk the sugar and fish sauce until the sugar is completely dissolved and the mixture is syrupy. Stir in 2 Tbs. water, the garlic, chile, and lime juice to taste.

Grilled Eggplant Noodle Bowl

Made with rice noodles, this one-bowl meal is hearty without being heavy. If you don’t like peanuts, use cashews instead.

• 1 large eggplant, trimmed and sliced lengthwise into 6 1/2-inch-thick slices
• Olive oil, for brushing
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 7 oz. flat, wide (pad thai) rice noodles
• 2 scallions, sliced
• 1/4 cup mirin
• 3 Tbs. soy sauce
• 1 tsp. Asian sesame oil
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh mint
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro
• 2 Tbs. chopped salted peanuts

Prepare a medium-high (425°F to 450°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Brush the eggplant slices with oil and season with salt and pepper.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat.

Grill the eggplant until grill marks form on one side, about 3 minutes. Flip the slices and continue to grill until the eggplant is tender, about 2 minutes more.

Cook the rice noodles according to package directions until tender.

Meanwhile, chop the eggplant into 1/2-inch pieces, and combine with the scallions in a large bowl.

In a small bowl, whisk together the mirin, soy sauce, sesame oil, and 1/4 cup warm water.

Drain the noodles, rinse under cold running water, drain again, and add to the eggplant. Toss with the sauce, mint, and cilantro. Sprinkle with the peanuts and serve

Vietnamese Noodle Salad with Stir-Fried Tofu and Vegetables

A cool noodle salad topped with soy-glazed stir-fried vegetables makes a light, refreshing meal. You can also substitute more unusual vegetables, like Chinese long beans or jícama. Keep in mind that though this dish is meatless, the nuoc cham dressing contains fish sauce; substitute soy sauce for a truly vegetarian version.

For the noodles:

• 8 oz. dried rice vermicelli

For the tofu and vegetables:

• 4 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 8 oz. firm tofu, drained and cut into rectangular strips about 1-inch wide
• 2 shallots, thinly sliced
• 6 dried black mushrooms, soaked in hot water for 30 min., drained, stemmed, and thinly sliced
• 2 cups broccoli florets (cut through their stems into thin slices), blanched in boiling water and drained
• 1-1/2 cups shredded green or Napa cabbage
• 1-1/2 cups thinly sliced bok choy
• 2 Tbs. soy sauce; more or less to taste
• 1/2 red bell pepper, thinly sliced

For the garnishes:

• 2 cups washed and shredded romaine, red, or green leaf lettuce
• 2 cups fresh, crisp bean sprouts
• 1-1/2 cups peeled, seeded, and julienned cucumber
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup roughly chopped or small whole mint leaves
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup roughly chopped or small basil or Thai basil leaves
• 2 Tbs. chopped roasted peanuts
• 12 sprigs fresh cilantro
• 1 recipe Nuoc Cham (Vietnamese Dipping Sauce)

Cook the noodles:

Bring a medium potful of water to a rolling boil. Add the rice vermicelli and, stirring often, cook them until the strands are soft and white, but still resilient, 3 to 5 minutes. Don't be tempted to undercook them, as they must be fully cooked to absorb the flavors of the dish. Rinse them in a colander under cold water just until they're cool and the water runs clear. Let the noodles drain in the colander for 30 minutes, and then set them aside for up to 2 hours, unrefrigerated.

Cook the tofu and vegetables:

Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a nonstick pan or skillet over medium heat. Add the tofu pieces and stir-fry until nicely browned. Remove and drain on paper towels. When cool, cut them into bite-size strips. Set aside.

Heat the remaining oil in a large skillet or sauté pan over high heat. If the pan is smaller than 12 inches, cook the vegetables in two batches. Wait until the oil gets very hot, almost smoking (the vegetables should sizzle during the entire cooking time), and add the shallots, constantly stirring until they become fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add the mushrooms and stir-fry for another 20 seconds. Add the broccoli, cabbage, and bok choy, stir for 30 seconds, and add the red bell pepper. (If the pan gets too dry, sprinkle in 1 to 2 Tbs. water.)

Working quickly, create an open space in the middle of the pan by pushing the vegetables against the edges. Add the soy sauce to the open area. It should sizzle and caramelize slightly, creating a distinctive aroma. Stir the vegetables with the soy sauce a few times and remove from the heat. Toss the vegetables with the tofu.

Assemble the salads:

Divide the lettuce, bean sprouts, cucumber, mint, and basil among four large soup or pasta bowls. Fluff the noodles with your fingers and divide them among the prepared salad bowls. Put the tofu and vegetables on the noodles and garnish each bowl with the peanuts and cilantro. Pass the nuoc cham at the table; each diner should drizzle about 3 Tbs. over the salad and then toss the salad in the bowl a few times with two forks or chopsticks before eating.

Chicken Noodle Soup with Lemongrass

In this cross between Vietnamese pho and Japanese udon noodle soup, fresh udon noodles are the star. Fat and bouncy in texture, they cook faster and tend to be more delicate than dried udon.

• 2-1/2 Tbs. canola oil
• 2 small boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (about 3/4 lb.), butterflied (cut horizontally almost all the way through and then opened like a book)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3 medium shallots (about 4 oz.), peeled and thinly sliced into rings
• 2 stalks lemongrass, trimmed, outer layers discarded, halved lengthwise, and smashed with the side of a chef’s knife
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
• 2 tsp. packed light brown sugar
• 5-1/2 cups lower-salt chicken broth
• 3-1/2 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and quartered (1-1/2 cups)
• 9 oz. fresh udon noodles
• 1 Thai bird chile (or 1 small serrano pepper), sliced into thin rings
• 8 large fresh torn basil leaves; plus sprigs for garnish
• 1 medium lime, half juiced and half cut into wedges
• 1 Tbs. soy sauce; more to taste
• 2 medium scallions, trimmed and sliced, for garnish (optional)
• 1 medium carrot, cut into matchsticks, for garnish (optional)
• 1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish (optional)

Tip:

This soup is also a great destination for shredded, leftover roast chicken in place of the chicken breast. Just add it to the soup along with the chiles, basil, lime juice, and soy sauce.

Heat 1-1/2 Tbs. of the oil in a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season the chicken with 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper, and cook without disturbing until it’s browned and releases easily from the bottom of the pot, about 2 minutes. Flip and cook until the second side is browned and almost firm to the touch (just short of cooked through), 1 to 2 minutes more. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board to cool.


Add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil and the shallots to the pot. Sprinkle with 1/4 tsp. salt, reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring, until the shallots start soften, about 2 minutes. Add the lemongrass, ginger, and brown sugar and cook, stirring, until the ginger and lemongrass sizzle and become fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the chicken broth, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot, and raise the heat to medium high. Bring the broth to a boil and then reduce to a simmer. Add the mushrooms, and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 5 to 7 minutes.


Meanwhile, bring a medium pot of well-salted water to a boil and cook the noodles, stirring, until just tender, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a colander and run under cold water to cool slightly. Drain well.


Use your fingers or the tines of a fork to shred the chicken. Add the chicken and noodles to the broth and cook until the noodles are completely tender and the chicken is cooked through, about 2 minutes. Discard the lemongrass. Stir in the chiles, torn basil, lime juice, and soy sauce; season with more soy to taste. Divide the noodles among 4 large, deep bowls. Ladle the soup over the noodles, and garnish with the basil sprigs and scallions, carrot, and cilantro, if using. Serve with the lime wedges for squeezing.

Seared Sea Bass with Spicy Lemongrass Crust

You can substitute another white fish, such as halibut, or even chicken or pork for the sea bass.

For the Thai green curry sauce:

• 3/4 cup unsweetened coconut milk
• 1-1/2 tsp. green curry paste
• 2/3 cup homemade or low-salt chicken broth
• 1 Tbs. fish sauce
• 1 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1/4 tsp. turmeric
• 1 Tbs. cornstarch
• 2 Tbs. water
• 1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice

Tip:

Green curry paste is available in Asian markets and in some supermarkets. 

For the sea bass:

• 1/4 cup finely chopped lemongrass (1 to 2 stalks)
• 1 Tbs. crushed red pepper flakes; more to taste
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
• 1/2 tsp. turmeric
• 1-1/2 tsp. kosher salt
• 2 tsp. granulated sugar
• 2 Tbs. water
• 4 sea bass fillets (6 oz. each)
• 2 to 3 Tbs. vegetable oil

Make the curry sauce:

In a small saucepan, heat 3 Tbs. of the coconut milk over low heat. Add the curry paste; stir to dissolve. Let the mixture simmer until fragrant, about 2 minutes, stirring to prevent burning. Add the chicken broth, remaining coconut milk, fish sauce, sugar, and turmeric. Simmer until slightly reduced, about 10 minutes. In a separate small bowl, dissolve the cornstarch in the water. Use this to thicken the sauce by adding 1 tsp. at a time and stirring well. Just before serving, stir in the lemon juice. 

Prepare the sea bass:

In a bowl, combine the lemongrass, red pepper flakes, garlic, turmeric, salt, sugar, and water. Add the sea bass, turning to cover it, and marinate for about 20 minutes.

In a nonstick frying pan large enough to hold the fish, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the fillets and cook until just done, 5 to 6 minutes on each side. Remove from the heat and drain on paper towels. Serve the fish in a pool of green curry sauce..

Vietnamese Tilapia with Turmeric & Dill

Sugar, lime juice, fish sauce, and chile make a simple yet classic sauce—one that’s practically requisite at any Vietnamese meal. Here it’s drizzled over quick-cooking fish fillets.

• 2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 2 Tbs. fresh lime juice
• 2 Tbs. Asian fish sauce
• 1/2 tsp. minced jalapeno
• 6 medium scallions
• 1 small bunch fresh dill (about 3/4 oz.)
• 2 tilapia fillets (about 12 oz. total)
• 1/2 tsp. ground ginger
• 1/4 tsp. ground turmeric
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 Tbs. canola oil

In a small bowl, combine the sugar and lime juice and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Add the fish sauce and jalapeno. Set aside.

Trim the scallions and cut them into 2-inch-long pieces. Quarter the white and light-green pieces lengthwise; leave the dark-green pieces whole. Cut the dill into 2-inch-long pieces (you should have about 1/2 cup).

Pat the fish dry with a paper towel. Sprinkle the ginger, turmeric, 1/4 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of black pepper all over the fillets.

Heat the oil in a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the tilapia and cook, flipping once, until just firm and opaque in the center of the thickest part, about 4 minutes total. Transfer the tilapia to two serving plates.

Add the scallions to the pan and cook, stirring frequently, until they just start to wilt, about 45 seconds. Add the dill and continue to cook until it has wilted slightly, about 15 seconds more. Pile the scallions and dill over the tilapia and serve the sauce on the side for drizzling.