Roasted Cornish Game Hens with Wildflower Honey & Orange

Cornish game hens work well for entertaining. They’re a nice departure from chicken, and they don’t require any last-minute carving. Marinating in honey and basting with butter adds flavor and encourages the skin to brown, but sometimes they also need a flash under the broiler to finish.

• 3 Cornish game hens (1-1/2 to 2 lb. each)
• 6 Tbs. plus 1/3 cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio
• 1-1/2 Tbs. honey (I prefer wildflower honey)
• 1-1/2 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme
• 2 bay leaves, preferably fresh, each torn into about 4 pieces
• Pinch crushed red pepper flakes
• 1 medium orange
• 1 small yellow onion, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices
• 1 Tbs. kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 3 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted, for basting, plus 1 Tbs. butter, not melted, for the sauce
• 1 cup low-salt chicken broth

Discard the giblets from the hens or reserve for another use. Using kitchen shears, cut along both sides of the backbones and remove them. Then cut each hen in half along the breastbone. Trim off the wing tips and put the hens in a large bowl.

In a small bowl, combine the 6 Tbs. wine, honey, thyme, bay leaves, and red pepper flakes, and stir to dissolve the honey (it’s all right if it doesn’t dissolve completely).

Using a vegetable peeler, peel the zest from the orange in large strips, letting the strips drop into the bowl with the hens. Add the honey mixture and the sliced onion to the bowl. Toss well, cover, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight, tossing the hens occasionally.

About half an hour before cooking, remove the hen halves from the marinade and gently pat them dry, trying not to disturb the thyme clinging to them. Arrange the hens on a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. (Discard the remaining marinade.) Position a rack in the top third of the oven and heat the oven to 450°F.

When ready to roast, season the hen halves on both sides with the salt and several grinds of pepper. Turn them skin side up. Roast the hens, basting occasionally with the melted butter and rotating the pan for even browning as needed, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the meaty part of a thigh registers 175° to 180°F (be careful not to hit the bone), about 30 minutes.

If the skin is somewhat pale, baste the hens, turn the broiler to high, and broil, rotating the pan frequently, until the hens are nicely golden, about 2 minutes. (Watch carefully to prevent burning.) Transfer the hens to a serving platter and tent with aluminum foil.

While the rimmed baking sheet is still hot, add the remaining 1/3 cup wine and use a wooden spoon to scrape the brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Pour the wine and juices into a small saucepan and add the chicken broth. Boil the sauce over high heat until it thickens ever so slightly, 2 to 3 minutes; it should be more like a jus than a thick sauce. Off the heat, whisk in the remaining 1 Tbs. butter. Taste and add salt and pepper, if needed. Keep warm.

To serve, pour a small amount of the sauce on and around the hens and pass the remainder at the table.

Honey-Spiced Madeleines

This is not your typical madeleine, nor Proust's either. Although it's based on the classic (see the variation below), it's my own invention, created to be served over the holidays, when spices like ginger, cinnamon, and cloves are most appreciated in both France and America. Like traditional madeleines, these are baked in shell-shaped molds and require a light hand when folding in the flour and butter. And they can be prepared ahead, even spooned into the molds, and baked à la minute, so that you can serve the little cakes warm.

• 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 1/2 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. ground ginger
• 1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1/8 tsp. ground cloves (or a little less, if you prefer)
• Pinch of salt
• Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
• 1/3 cup sugar
• Grated zest of  1/2 orange
• 2 large eggs, at room temperature
• 2 Tbs. honey
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 6 Tbs. (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
• Confectioners' sugar, for dusting

Whisk together the flour, baking powder, spices, salt, and pepper.

In the bowl of a stand mixer or in a large bowl, rub the sugar and orange zest together with your fingertips until the sugar is moist and fragrant. Fit the stand mixer with the whisk attachment or use a hand mixer or a whisk; add the eggs to the bowl and beat until the mixture is light colored, fluffy, and thickened, about 2 minutes. Beat in the honey, then the vanilla. Switch to a rubber spatula and very gently fold in the dry ingredients, followed by the melted butter.

You can use the batter now, but it's better if you give it a little rest. Or, for real convenience, you can spoon the batter into buttered-and-floured madeleine molds, cover, and chill, then bake the cookies directly from the fridge. (See below for instructions on prepping the pans.) Press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface of the batter and refrigerate it for at least 3 hours, or overnight.

When you're ready to bake, center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter 12 regular madeleine molds (or 36 mini-molds), dust them with flour, and tap out the excess. (If you have a nonstick madeleine mold, butter and flour it or give it a light coating of vegetable cooking spray. If your pan is silicone, you can leave it as is or, just to be sure, give it a light butter-and flour coating.) Place the pan on a baking sheet and spoon the batter into the molds, filling each one to the top.

Bake large madeleines for 11 to 13 minutes and minis for 8 to 10 minutes, or until they are golden and the tops spring back when prodded gently. Remove the pan from the oven and release the madeleines from the molds by rapping the edge of the pan against the counter. Gently pry any recalcitrant madeleines from the pan using your fingers or a butter knife. Transfer the cookies to a rack to cool to just warm or room temperature.

Just before serving, dust with confectioners' sugar.

Roasted Shrimp with Honey-Ginger-Soy Marinade

These shrimp go well with rice and sautéed snow peas or broccoli.

• 1/4 cup soy sauce  
• 1 small clove garlic, roughly chopped 
• 1-1/2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 1 Tbs. honey
• 1-1/2 tsp. dry mustard
• 1-1/2 tsp. roughly chopped fresh ginger
• 1-1/2 lb. jumbo shrimp (or 1-3/4 lb. large) in the shell or about 50 frozen, cleaned large shrimp, defrosted
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• Thinly sliced scallions for garnish

In a food processor or blender, process the soy sauce, garlic, oil, honey, dry mustard, and ginger until the garlic and ginger are finely chopped and well combined, 1 to 2 minutes. (Or chop the garlic and ginger very fine with a knife and then whisk all the ingredients together in a bowl.) Set the marinade aside

Position the oven rack to the top level and heat the oven to 500°F. If using shrimp in the shell, peel and devein them. If using cleaned, defrosted shrimp, skip this step. Either way, dry the shrimp well with paper towels.

Season the shrimp lightly with salt and pepper. Put them in a bowl with the marinade, tossing to coat thoroughly. Let them sit unrefrigerated, stirring once or twice. After 5 minutes, remove the shrimp (discard the marinade) and arrange them on a baking sheet, 1 inch apart. Put the pan in the oven toward the back; roast until the shrimp are cooked through and white throughout, 5 to 8 minutes. (use the shorter cooking time if using a thin pan or smaller shrimp); cut one in half to check. Sprinkle with scallions and serve immediately.

Honey and Tahini Ganache with Toasted Sesame Seeds

Sesame seeds, when lightly toasted, complement chocolate incredibly well and add an amazing light, open texture to it. The addition of tahini (roasted sesame paste) intensifies the complexities and flavors in the finished chocolate. This is a fantastic after-dinner chocolate, and also goes exceptionally well with Moroccan, Egyptian and Algerian dishes.

• 2-1/2 Tbs. strong clover or heather honey
• 1/3 cup tahini
• 12-1/2 oz. Caribbean 66% dark chocolate, chopped
• 3/4 cup sesame seeds

In a saucepan, bring a scant 3/4 cup water and the honey to a simmer. Add the tahini and simmer for 2 minutes. Pour the hot liquid onto the chocolate in a bowl and whisk well until smooth. Allow to cool before refrigerating for at least 2 hours to fully set the ganache.

Lightly toast the sesame seeds in a dry frying pan until golden but not popping open. Leave to cool.

Take the ganache out of the fridge and, using a teaspoon, scoop out uneven quenelles and immediately roll them through the toasted sesame seeds.

Serve at room temperature and eat within 3 days.

Honey-Spiced Madeleines

This is not your typical madeleine, nor Proust's either. Although it's based on the classic (see the variation below), it's my own invention, created to be served over the holidays, when spices like ginger, cinnamon, and cloves are most appreciated in both France and America. Like traditional madeleines, these are baked in shell-shaped molds and require a light hand when folding in the flour and butter. And they can be prepared ahead, even spooned into the molds, and baked à la minute, so that you can serve the little cakes warm.

• 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 1/2 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. ground ginger
• 1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1/8 tsp. ground cloves (or a little less, if you prefer)
• Pinch of salt
• Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
• 1/3 cup sugar
• Grated zest of  1/2 orange
• 2 large eggs, at room temperature
• 2 Tbs. honey
• 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 6 Tbs. (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
• Confectioners' sugar, for dusting

Whisk together the flour, baking powder, spices, salt, and pepper.

In the bowl of a stand mixer or in a large bowl, rub the sugar and orange zest together with your fingertips until the sugar is moist and fragrant. Fit the stand mixer with the whisk attachment or use a hand mixer or a whisk; add the eggs to the bowl and beat until the mixture is light colored, fluffy, and thickened, about 2 minutes. Beat in the honey, then the vanilla. Switch to a rubber spatula and very gently fold in the dry ingredients, followed by the melted butter.

You can use the batter now, but it's better if you give it a little rest. Or, for real convenience, you can spoon the batter into buttered-and-floured madeleine molds, cover, and chill, then bake the cookies directly from the fridge. (See below for instructions on prepping the pans.) Press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface of the batter and refrigerate it for at least 3 hours, or overnight.

When you're ready to bake, center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter 12 regular madeleine molds (or 36 mini-molds), dust them with flour, and tap out the excess. (If you have a nonstick madeleine mold, butter and flour it or give it a light coating of vegetable cooking spray. If your pan is silicone, you can leave it as is or, just to be sure, give it a light butter-and flour coating.) Place the pan on a baking sheet and spoon the batter into the molds, filling each one to the top.

Bake large madeleines for 11 to 13 minutes and minis for 8 to 10 minutes, or until they are golden and the tops spring back when prodded gently. Remove the pan from the oven and release the madeleines from the molds by rapping the edge of the pan against the counter. Gently pry any recalcitrant madeleines from the pan using your fingers or a butter knife. Transfer the cookies to a rack to cool to just warm or room temperature.

Just before serving, dust with confectioners' sugar.

Fig & Anise Ice Cream

Leaving on the fig skins makes for an even more intense flavor. You'll need an ice-cream machine.

• 1-1/2 lb. ripe figs, stems removed, unpeeled
• 1/3 cup plus 2 Tbs. sugar
• 2 cups cream or half-and-half
• 1/3 cup honey
• 1 tsp. aniseed
• 3 large eggs, separated
• 1 cup crème fraîche

Purée the figs in a food processor or blender. Transfer the purée to a 10-inch skillet with 1/3 cup of the sugar. Cook over medium heat, stirring often to prevent sticking, until the figs have thickened into a jam, about 30 minutes. In a saucepan, heat the cream, honey, and aniseed over medium heat. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the honey. Whisk a little of the hot cream into the egg yolks, and then whisk them back into the pan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and coats the spoon. Immediately transfer to a bowl. Stir in the fig purée and crème fraîche and chill thoroughly. Whisk the egg whites until foamy; add the remaining 2 Tbs. sugar and continue beating until soft peaks form. Fold the egg whites into the cooled fig purée, and then freeze in an ice-cream maker following the manufacturer's instructions.

Homemade Nut Butter

Come autumn, the harvest of almonds, pecans, and hazelnuts begins in earnest. Turning them into your own homemade nut butter not only makes storing easy, but also transforms an everyday snack into a rich, spreadable butter. A blender produces the smoothest results, but only a heavy-duty one is up to the task. As an alternative, use a food processor; the butter will just be a bit coarser.Read the Test Kitchen post for more information on preserving fresh nuts.  

• 2 cups toasted skin-on almonds, toasted and skinned hazelnuts, or untoasted pecans
• 1/4 tsp. fine sea salt
• 1-1/2 to 4 Tbs. canola, vegetable, or other neutral-flavored oil
• 1 tsp. honey

Tip:

For almond or hazelnut butter, try substituting almond or hazelnut oil for the canola oil.

Put the nuts in a heavy-duty blender or a food processor and pulse until roughly chopped. Add the salt and purée until the nuts become fairly smooth, adding only enough oil to help the nuts break down. Add the honey and pulse to mix. Transfer the nut butter to a sterile jar and store in a cool, dry place or the refrigerator.

Roasted Shrimp with Honey-Ginger-Soy Marinade

These shrimp go well with rice and sautéed snow peas or broccoli.

• 1/4 cup soy sauce  
• 1 small clove garlic, roughly chopped 
• 1-1/2 Tbs. vegetable oil
• 1 Tbs. honey
• 1-1/2 tsp. dry mustard
• 1-1/2 tsp. roughly chopped fresh ginger
• 1-1/2 lb. jumbo shrimp (or 1-3/4 lb. large) in the shell or about 50 frozen, cleaned large shrimp, defrosted
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• Thinly sliced scallions for garnish

In a food processor or blender, process the soy sauce, garlic, oil, honey, dry mustard, and ginger until the garlic and ginger are finely chopped and well combined, 1 to 2 minutes. (Or chop the garlic and ginger very fine with a knife and then whisk all the ingredients together in a bowl.) Set the marinade aside

Position the oven rack to the top level and heat the oven to 500°F. If using shrimp in the shell, peel and devein them. If using cleaned, defrosted shrimp, skip this step. Either way, dry the shrimp well with paper towels.

Season the shrimp lightly with salt and pepper. Put them in a bowl with the marinade, tossing to coat thoroughly. Let them sit unrefrigerated, stirring once or twice. After 5 minutes, remove the shrimp (discard the marinade) and arrange them on a baking sheet, 1 inch apart. Put the pan in the oven toward the back; roast until the shrimp are cooked through and white throughout, 5 to 8 minutes. (use the shorter cooking time if using a thin pan or smaller shrimp); cut one in half to check. Sprinkle with scallions and serve immediately.

Red Onion Jam

Make this jam while the lamb roasts. Or make it a day ahead and refrigerate; warm it gently before serving.

• 7 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 medium-large red onions, halved and thinly sliced crosswise into half moons (about 6 cups)
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 6 Tbs. honey
• 3 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Melt the butter in a heavy-based 3- or 4-qt. saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring ­occasionally, until they're very soft and stringy looking but not brown, 12 to 15 min. (Reduce the heat to ­medium low if they start to brown.) Add the wine and honey, reduce the heat to medium low if you haven't already, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is thick and jammy, another 20 to 30 min. Remove from heat and stir in the vinegar; season with salt and pepper to taste.

Fig & Anise Ice Cream

Leaving on the fig skins makes for an even more intense flavor. You'll need an ice-cream machine.

• 1-1/2 lb. ripe figs, stems removed, unpeeled
• 1/3 cup plus 2 Tbs. sugar
• 2 cups cream or half-and-half
• 1/3 cup honey
• 1 tsp. aniseed
• 3 large eggs, separated
• 1 cup crème fraîche

Purée the figs in a food processor or blender. Transfer the purée to a 10-inch skillet with 1/3 cup of the sugar. Cook over medium heat, stirring often to prevent sticking, until the figs have thickened into a jam, about 30 minutes. In a saucepan, heat the cream, honey, and aniseed over medium heat. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the honey. Whisk a little of the hot cream into the egg yolks, and then whisk them back into the pan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and coats the spoon. Immediately transfer to a bowl. Stir in the fig purée and crème fraîche and chill thoroughly. Whisk the egg whites until foamy; add the remaining 2 Tbs. sugar and continue beating until soft peaks form. Fold the egg whites into the cooled fig purée, and then freeze in an ice-cream maker following the manufacturer's instructions.